TROUSERS AND BREECHES CUTTING
PLEATED-TOP TROUSERS—WITH WAISTBAND Diagram 3
T
HIS is the style of trousers most generally worn today; it combines smartness of appearance with comfort. The waistband is made anything from 1½” to 2¼” wide—1¾” or 2” being the width usually adopted. Sometimes the band has an extension across the front, 2½” to 4” in length, according to taste.The pleats are made fairly ample—1½” to 2” for the front one and 1” to 1¾” for the rear. In some cases, one pleat only is featured—about 2” in depth. For large-waisted figures a single-pleat, 1½” deep, is the more satisfactory.
This draft is designed with permanent turn-ups, the amount of allowance for these being illustrated.
In materials which are likely to fray a lot in wear, it is advisable to make the p.t.u. allowance about 5” or 5¼” so that ample bottom turning is provided.
Measures: 42½” side-seam; 30” inside leg; 32” waist; 38” seat; 23” knee; 20” bottom. Scale is ½ Seat—19”.
Instructions for Drafting
Topside—Section A Draw the main construction line, 0–1–2.
In the chapter on Measurements (Trousers Section), it was stated that certain amounts are deducted from the side-seam and inside-leg measures when permanent turn-ups are required. The bottom width given for this draft is 20”; a deduction of 1” from the lengths mentioned will therefore be made—this is satisfactory for an average, finished length of leg. The draft should be proceeded with on the assumption that such deduction has been effected:
thus, the bottom line at 0 indicates the actual length of the trousers when the turnup has been made.
1 from 0 is the leg length plus ¼”.
2 from 0 is the side-seam length less 1¼”.
(This deduction takes into account the loss in making-up, the waist seam and width of the band; the latter will be 1¾” wide when finished.) Square out from 0, 1, and 2, as indicated.
3 from 1 is ⅓ scale.
4 from 3 is 1/6 scale; 5 from 4 is 1/6 scale plus ¼”.
Square up from 4 to 6, on the line squared from 2.
7 from 4 is 1/6 scale; 8 from 7 is the same.
Square out from 7 to A.
Halve the angle at 4 and draw a short line to 9.
9 from 4 is half the distance between 4 and 5 plus ¼”.
Shape the fly (or fall) line from 8 through 9 to 5.
Square down from 3 to locate 10 and 11.
10 from 3 is ½ leg measure less 2”.
11 is located on the line squared from 0.
12 from 11 and 13 from 11 are each ¼ bottom measure.
14 from 10 and 15 from 10 are each ¼ knee measure.
(In cases where no specific knee dimension is required, the location of point 15 may be left until the side-seam is drawn through.) 16 from 6 is ¼ waist measure, net.
17 from 16 is the amount required in the two pleats; in this case it is 3” – 1¾” for the front pleat and 1¼” for the rear one.
18 from A is 1”.
Draw the side-seam from 17 through 18 and 15 to 13; and the leg-seam from 5 through 14 to 12, as indicated.
Mark back ¾” from 5 to W, and take out the “dress” as shown by the dash lines—as described in the plain-top trouser draft.
The pleats are marked by continuing the line from 3 to C, making D 1¾” from C and F about 1½” from 3; then measuring from D to E a distance of about half that of D to 17 and dividing the amount of the rear pleat (1¼”) at point E. Mark the turn-up allowance below the line 0–12, “springing” out a little, and complete the topside.
Underside—Section A L from 8 is 1”; draw a line from W through L to 19.
On this line 19 is 2¾” above the line 6–2.
20 from 19 is ½”.
With point 14 as a pivot, sweep out from 5 to 21.
21 from 5 is 1/12 scale plus ½”.
Draw the seat-seam from 20 through L down to 21 making the hollow contour below L as indicated.
23 from 20 is 1¼”.
Measure the topside from 6 to 16 (not to 17, which includes pleat allowances), place this amount at 23 and continue to 22, ½ waist measure plus 2”.
The construction of the underside top from 22 to 20 is that for trousers to be worn with braces. If the trousers are designed for wear with a belt, the top should be drawn as the dash line from 22 to 23.
With 15 as a pivot, sweep out from 18 towards 24.
Measure across the topside from 7 to A (not to 18, which includes part of the pleat allowances), place this amount at L and continue to 24, ½ seat measure plus 2½”.
Draw the side-seam from 22 through 24 to a point about 4” above 15, and continue to the bottom in line with the topside.
25 from 14 and 26 from 12 are each 1”.
Draw the leg-seam from 21 through 25 and 26, as indicated.
H from 22 is about 3½”; draw a line ¼” from H to 3 and shape a ½”
dart as shown.
TROuSERS AND BREEChES CuTTING 33
The dotted-line section beyond 0–4 illustrates the type of extension sometimes adopted.
Adjustment for Stout Figure—Section B There are some figures with rather large waist,
though they could not be rightly described as corpulent figures (which will be dealt with later).
The increase in the waist girth is usually found to be greatest at the front, thus demanding some adjustment at the fall line and top of the trousers.
2 from 1 is 1”; 3 from 2 is ¾”.
Draw a line from J to 4 (the latter point is in the same position as that on the main draft).
Now shape the fly (or fall) from 3, as shown.
The top is drawn in a gradual line from 3 to the top of side-seam (point 17 in the main draft, Section A).
Provision of Extra Ease—Section C There are cases in which the introduction of extra
ease and “movement” in a pair of trousers is a good thing.
This ease is chiefly associated with the seat and fork sections. Trousers that are to be worn for heavy work, for instance, will require more room in the seat and a greater striding capacity in the legs.
Extra length can be provided over the seat by giving what is termed increase of seat angle.
The introduction of this may produce a pair of trousers less clean-fitting at the part immediately below the seat of the figure, but certainly more comfortable to the wearer. For one thing, strain will be relieved from the back brace buttons.
To reset the seat angle for this purpose, mark in about ½” from L to M and ¼” from 18 to N.
Draw the new seat line from N through M, continuing to W and T.
The distance from W to T should show a slight increase on the amount stated for the main draft (Section A) at that part—say, ½”.
The seat measure, after measuring the topside, will now be applied from M instead of from L.
Sometimes the fork amount is increased, as from 4 to 5 (Section A)—especially when the trousers are being cut from cotton and other non-yielding materials: corduroy, for instance.
Some Trousers Details Diagram 4
T
HOUGH the cutter is not often called upon nowadays to cut the various smaller sections which form part of trousers, it is well for him to know something about their planning out. The accompanying diagram illustrates the cutting and fixing of some of the more important sections likely to be required in present-day styles of trousers.Section 1
This is really arranged in two parts—for clearness of explanation. The first of these, A, shows the position of the fly tack. 2 from 1 is about 1½” or 2”, according to the size of figure being dealt with. 4 from 3 (on the right topside in normal trousers) is the same. Both right and left fly sections are cut together, the left side being used for the shaping. On part B the width of the fly at the top, between 5 and 6, is 2” to 2½”. When cutting fly and button-catch, terminate both not less than ½” below point 2.
Section 2
Here is an illustration of French bearers (sometimes called American bearers). These are usually inserted in trousers for stout men. The bearer is actually an extension of the button-catch; it has two holes and buttons. The holes are in the extension, as shown at 3–4; the buttons are on the short strap, 1–2, which is sewn in the left side-seam.
Section 3
This diagram shows the positions of the top buttons and the side pockets. The front button should be, as near as possible, in line with the crease or front pleat.
The crease is usually a little back from the centre of the trousers leg (see at 1). The button should, therefore, be placed 1” back from point 2. Buttons are set from 3½” to 4” apart (again according to figure). The opening for the side pockets begins at a point ¾” below the waistband seam (If this style is being made up), as shown by point 3, and extends 6” to 6½” down to point 4. The dot-and-dash outline indicates the shape of the pockets.
Sections 4 and 5
These sections deal with cross-pockets. They are not used so frequently in trousers as they are in breeches;
but some men, particularly in country districts, prefer this type of pocket.
Section 4 shows the most general style. The tack is located at 1, about 3½” below the waist hollow. 2 from 1, the mouth of the pocket, is 6” to 6½” in length. The tops are slit down from 3 to 2; a facing “grows on,” as the dash line from 4 to 5. The bearer is cut as the dot-dash lines 6–7–8–9, filling the vacancy of the turned-down pocket mouth. 6 from 3 is ½” for two seams; 7 from 2 and 8 from 1 are each 2”.
Section 5 illustrates a top welt (or part waistband) and bearer cut in one piece. The tack is about 3½” below the waist hollow. 2 from 1 is 6” to 6½”. Go up ¼” from 2 to 3 and continue across to 4, thus allowing for the sewing-on of the top welt. 5 from 2 and 6 from 1 are each 2”, for the facing. 7 and 2 are ½” below 4 and 3. Both 9 from 2 and 8 from 1 are 2”. Shape the bearer as indicated by the dot-dash lines. The tops are cut as shown by the solid lines and a facing is left for turning in.
Section 6
Here are shown two types of pocket asked for in trousers. The first, 1, is a cash pocket, set in the waistband seam and with a flap about 5” long; mouth of the pocket is about 1½” from the side-seam. Such a pocket is sometimes made with jetted mouth, with or without hole and button.
At 2 is illustrated a type of fob pocket, situated between the two front buttons. The top of the waistband is hollowed and a deep facing is sewn at the back, its top curving upwards, as shown.
Cash and fob pockets are usually placed on the right;
but some customers prefer them on the left. Careful note should be taken at the time of ordering.
Section 7
Hip pockets are generally placed about 1½” in from the side seam and 3” to 3½” down from the top edge (for either plain-topped or banded trousers). Width of such a pocket should be from 5” to 6”—but special widths, and depths, may be asked for by the customer. Small flaps are sometimes attached, as the illustration; some men prefer jettings, with or without a hole and button.
TROuSERS AND BREEChES CuTTING 35 Section 8
This diagram shows the standard type of permanent turn-up. The line from 1 to 2 marks the actual finished length of the trousers leg; 7 from 1 and 8 from 2 illustrate the width of the turn-up—anything from 1½” to 2¼”, according to size. The dot-dash line from 3 to 4 shows the position of the top of turn-up when finished.
Square down from 1 and 2 in order to locate 5 and 6, which are the same distance from 7 and 8 as those parts are from 1 and 2. When the edge of the turn-up, 7–8, falls on the line 3–4, it will have to be slightly longer in order to go round the wider part of the trousers leg at that position. Therefore, it is necessary to add slight “spring” at 7 and 8, as indicated. Add ¾” to 1” below 5–6, for turning up. The procedure for both topsides and undersides is illustrated.
Section 9
This section shows the so-called seat piece sometimes required. The dot-dash lines illustrate the cutting of such an addition. 4 and 5 are two seams below the main bodypart from 1 to top of side-seam. The side of the seat piece at 2–5 is brought in from the side-seam the amount taken out at the dart, 3 (including seams). Hollow the seat piece from 4 to 5, as indicated, in order to give a certain amount of “spring” to the tops. (This applies to the plain style of top; no such “spring” is necessary in the case of banded trousers, when the addition of a seat piece is made to fill up a shortness between the tops and the band.)
DIAGRAM 4.
RIDING BREECHES