SLEEVES Diagram 66

Diagonal Creases from Crown (Section 50) Features.—In this defect diagonal creases run from

the crown towards the fore and hindarm. The under-part of the sleeve near its sewing-point is very full and unsightly. As far as ease goes, the sleeve is excellent.

Cause and Remedy.—The creases denote a shortness from the crown, the whole sleeve being drawn up. The term “crown” as it applies to the sleeve is the amount of round given above the line connecting front and back pitches as shown at 1 and 2, Section 50A.

The remedy can be carried out either by taking a little off each side of the sleeve as shown at 3 and 4 on Section 50B dotted lines, or by lowering the forearm at 5, Section 50C, and raising the back pitch to agree (6).

Sleeve Hangs too Far Back (Section 51) Features.—The accepted position for the hang of

the sleeve when the coat is held over the hand is midway across the pocket. In this case it hangs too straight.

When on the figure it rides up on the forearm with the least forward movement of the arm.

Cause and Remedy.—The usual. remedy is to swing the pitches in the coat round a little ; but this is apt to expose the forearm seam too much. The sleeve is best altered as shown by dotted lines at 1 and 2.

Sleeve Head too Full (Section 52) Features.—There is far too much fullness in the

sleeve-top ; although a little is essential, the workman cannot get it all into the scye without pleating.

Cause and Remedy.—This may be due to badly cut sleeves. It also may be the result of an altered shoulder after a try-on.

To remedy: Either reduce the sleeve as shown by dotted lines at 1 and 2 ; or, if the shoulder has been altered, drop the pitch at the back as shown at 3. If the circumference ‘between the pitches on the coat was taken and applied from 4 to 1, this difficulty would not arise.

Dragging When Arms are Raised (Section 53) Features.—When the anns are raised to the head or

in an upward direction, the body part is drawn unduly out of position and the sleeve drags over the ann.

Cause and Remedy.—If the annhole is not too deep. then the cause of the trouble is a too hollowed under-sleeve.

To remedy: Reduce the sleeve at the hind and foreanns as shown by dotted Jines at 1 and 2, and straighten out to the centre at 3. The length will have to be increased to compensate.

AlTERATIONS—ThEIR CAuSE AND CuRE 165

DIAGRAM 66.

Diagram 67

Fullness at the Hindarm (Section 54) Features.—This is one of the

most common defects, and one of which customers most frequently complain. When the ann is at the side. festoons of surplus length congregate below the back pitch of sleeve.

Cause and Remedy.—A little of this is essential for the free action of the anns, but if overdone it is a sign of bad cutting and also bad workmanship.

The cause of the trouble is excess hindann length, badly hollowed under-sleeve, and insufficient fullness below pitch.

To remedy: Lower hindarm as shown from 1 to 2 on top side and 3 on underside. Section 54A. Hollow under-sleeve well at 4, and see that it is fulled on in the region of wavy line.

Sleeve Tight Over Muscle of Arm (Section 55) Features.—When the ann is

down at the side the sleeve may appear perfect, yet as soon as the ann is brought forward, the sleeve is drawn tightly over the muscle and the foreann rides up. The coat is also dragged out of position.

Cause and Remedy.—This is a most confusing defect, because it has so many possible causes. The sleeve itself may not be at fault, for any of the following defects in the body part may be responsible: short back balance ; too crooked shoulder ; insufficient distance from back to front scye, and a too deep scye. As regards the sleeve: the under-sleeve may be too hollow or the forearm point too low—which results in a narrow topside sleeve. In the fonner case the remedy would be to straighten out the hollow as dotted line from 1 to 2. But in the latter, a new sleeve is essential, altered as shown by points 3 and 4. Section 55A.

In any event, a little longer back balance provided as shown by points 5 and 6, Section 55B, would be beneficial.

Crown too High (Section 56) Features.—In this instance the

sleeve appears narrow across the summit and small horizontal creases fonn below the wadding.

Cause and Remedy.—The fault here is too much crown height, and unless there is an inlay down hindann of top-half, it will mean a new sleeve.

Remedy as shown by dotted lines at 1 and 2.

Front Seam too Forward at Cuff (Section 57) Features.—The foreann seam

comes round too much to the front of the ann at the cuff.

Cause and Remedy.—This usually occurs when the sleeves have not been put together fairly, or it may be due to the undersleeves being cut with less curve than that of the top-half above and below the elbow.

To remedy: Take a piece off under-sleeve as shown at 1 and 2, and let out the hindann seam to compensate at 3.

Note on Sleeve Alterations

It should be remembered that in all cases where sleeves are altered by sinking the top of foreann, an adjustment of length must be effected at the bottom.

AlTERATIONS—ThEIR CAuSE AND CuRE 167

DIAGRAM 67.