TROUSERS Diagram 53

In document Remake 1949 Mtoc Vol1 Full (Page 150-154)

ALTERATIONS—THEIR CAUSE AND CURE

TROUSERS Diagram 53

Fullness in Lap (Section 1)

F

EATURES.—When the wearer is sitting. an abundance of material falls in the lap. There is also a slight pressure at top of the fly.

Cause and Remedy.—The trouble may be due to a too receding fly seam. In that case, the fronts will have to be advanced as shown at 1 and 2. dotted lines. A more frequent cause is insufficient seat angle and a small fork.

To rectify: Let out the fork at 3 and throw the seat line back as outlined by dotted lines 4 and 5. Section 1A.

Too Much Material Below Seat (Section 2) Features.—There is a quantity of surplus material

below the brow of the seat which, whilst being suitable for workingmen’s trousers, would be strongly condemned by the dressy man.

Cause and Remedy.—This is due to excessive seat angle and created by inclining the seat line too much.

To remedy: Let out the inlay at the top of seat-seam at 1 to 2 and take in the side-seam at 3 and 4.

Surplus Material at Top of Leg-seam (Section 3) Features.—When wearer is standing with feet in

a natural position. excess length is noticed at the top of leg-seam. The trousers may appear short in the leg.

although they are full to measure. The bottoms cling to the inside of the boot.

Cause and Remedy.—This is due to cutting what is known in tailoring circles as a too “open” leg. If the wearer opens his legs slightly the creases will disappear.

The remedy will be to let out the inlay at the leg-seam at the bottom (1) and run out to nothing at the fork (2).

The side-seam will have to be reduced a corresponding amount, as shown at 3 and 4. Reduce the fork of topsides a trifle, as shown at 5.

“Roping” up the Seat-Seam (Section 4) Features.—With this defect there is a chronic

tightness up the back region. The closing seam is drawn up and a pleat forms on either side. There is also a strain on the knee when walking and a difficulty founa in raising it.

Cause and Remedy.—The cause of the tightness is the shortness of the seat-seam, the angle and run being too straight. With the English style of trouser cutting, this is generally the result of an attempt to give a clean-fitting seat.

To remedy: Hollow out the seat-seam at the fork (1) and carry the new line parallel with the old one to the top (2). Let out the side at 4 and 5 to make up the measurement.

AlTERATIONS—ThEIR CAuSE AND CuRE 139

DIAGRAM 53.

Diagram 54

Vertical Folds at Fork (Section 5) Features.—The fork in this defect presents a very

bedraggled appearance. Vertical folds of what could correctly be termed “excess” width form up on either side of the fly and the upper part of the leg.

Cause and Remedy.—This is a defect typical of workingclass trades, and is entirely due to excessive fork allowance.

To rectify: Reduce the fork as shown at 1, 2, and 3 on either topsides or undersides, or both.

Horseshoe Folds (Section 6) Features.—The undersides in this defect have

festoons of surplus material below the brow of the seat. Diagonal creases run from the fronts across the leg-seam and the undersides cling to the calf of the leg.

There may be a tightness in the fork when sitting.

Cause and Remedy.—This defect is usually noticed on men with prominent thighs and calves. Relief can be obtained for these figures by fulling on the topsides over the thigh and the undersides over the calf. Another remedy, and one that has been used successfully for this defect, is to let out the underside fork as shown at 1 and hollow the seat at 2. From 2 run out to nothing at the waist at 3, and let out the side-seams at 4.

Crease Line Drawn Towards Leg-seam (Section 7) Features.—The trousers have had the crease pressed

in its correct position and in accordance with the cut of the trousers, yet, when on the figure, it runs in towards the leg-seam at the bottom.

Cause and Remedy.—If on the right side only, the probable cause is that excessive “dress” has been taken out. If on both legs, the trouble must be attributed to insufficient seat angle.

To remedy: Bring in the seat-seam at the top at 1 and run out into fork at 2. Let out side-seam and compensate for the size lost, as shown at 4 and 5. These adjust the

“run.”

Pressure on Front of Thighs (Section 8) Features.—This defect is chiefly noticed when

sitting. The topsides are drawn tightly over the thighs and creases run from the fork along the groin.

Cause and Remedy.—This defect is frequently noticed in American-cut trousers that have a very hollow seat run and a limited amount of seat angle. This type of cut demands an extra large fork, and a deficiency in this quarter is the most likely cause of the above defect.

To remedy: Let out the fork of undersides to the full extent of the inlay as shown at 1, 2, and 3, hollowing a little from 1 to 2.

Drags from Fork to Knee (Section 9) Features.—Creases run from fork to knee when

sitting. Cause and Remedy.—This is due to insufficient fork

or seat angle. Let out as shown at 1, and alter seat as 2 and 3, 4 and 5.

AlTERATIONS—ThEIR CAuSE AND CuRE 141

DIAGRAM 54.

WAISTCOATS

In document Remake 1949 Mtoc Vol1 Full (Page 150-154)

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