WAISTCOATS Diagram 55

Wrinkles in Shoulder (Section 10) Features.—This is a trouble that appears with great

frequency. The creases run from the side of the neck at the shoulder-seam to hollow of the shoulder. The neck is uncomfortable.

Cause and Remedy.—One of the misleading Features about this defect is that the direction of the creases appears to denote a shortness in front shoulder. The remedy for this has often been tried, but without success. The trouble is due to either one or a combination of the following: narrow back neck, too straight a shoulder, or a short back balance. The first error does not provide sufficient neck diameter ; the second does not provide sufficient length to the top button, and a short back balance is responsible for a shortness from the neck round back scye to front scye, which draws the forepart shoulder against the bone.

The remedy for the back neck is shown by dotted lines at 1 and 2, the forepart being reduced as shown at 3. To make the shoulder more crooked, take a piece off as shown at 4 and add on at 5, Section 10A. To lengthen back balance, take a piece off top of side-seam, as shown at 6, Section 10B.

Gaping Open at Neck (Section 11) Features.—When fastening up the buttons, those at

the waist appear a little tight ; when fastened, the neck-opening gapes very badly.

Cause and Remedy.—The fault here is a shoulder that has been cut too crooked, the trouble being made more pronounced by shortness in the back section.

To remedy: Straighten the shoulder as shown by dotted lines at 1 and 2, and pass the back up at the side-seam by clearing top of back as shown at 3.

Tight on Top Buttons (Section 12) Features.—Difficulty is experienced in fastening up

the fronts ; when fastened, there is a pronounced drag across the foreparts over the chest.

Cause and Remedy.—The waistcoat may have been cut too small in the first instance. If this is not so, then there will be fullness at the top of the side-seam.

To remedy: Let out the side-seams all the way down, as shown by dotted lines at 1 and 2 ; this may of course mean a new back. Take a piece off the neck as shown at 3, and make the shoulder narrower by reducing the shoulder-seam of back at 4.

AlTERATIONS—ThEIR CAuSE AND CuRE 143

DIAGRAM 55.

Diagram 56

Too High in Neck (Section 13) Features.—The neck of the

waistcoat may show above the coat at the sides ; on the other hand, the excess length may be crushed down into folds around the base of the linen collar.

Cause and Remedy.—The cause of the trouble is the excessive slope given to the shoulder. The shoulder ends are binding on the figure and will not allow the neck to sit properly.

To remedy: Let out the shoulder end of back part, where the inlay usually lies—as shown by dotted line at 1 and 2. Sink the forepart neck from 3 to 4.

Dragging Across Front Waist (Section 14) Features.—When the waistcoat

has been worn once or twice, furrows appear across the waist.

There is also a strain on the lower buttons.

Cause and Remedy.—This is due either to faulty distribution of the waist measurements, or the back balance is too short.

For the latter cause one must expect further symptoms in the shoulder region. If it is the back balance, then lengthen by lowering scye at side-seam at 1. If more size is required at the front, let out at 2 and take in the back waist at 3 to 4. Let out the side-seam as the dash line from 1 to 5.

Adjust length.

Bulging at Front of Scye (Section 15) Features.—When the wearer

is seated, this defect becomes very pronounced, a deep fold forming across the front and the opening gaping badly at the base.

Cause and Remedy.—The fault here is a too long front balance. If the fronts were unfastened, they would swing back into the scye.

To remedy: Either take a piece off the shoulder, as shown at 1 and 2, dotted lines, or pass the forepart down on the sideseam, as shown by points 3 and 4. Adjust bottom length.

Neck Creeping Under Collar (Section 16) Features.—This makes the

waistcoat very uncomfortable ; no matter how frequently the wearer adjusts the neck, the edges of the foreparts eventually find their way under the linen collar.

This defect is very prevalent with long-necked people.

Cause and Remedy.—If the neck appears low all the way round with practically no collar stand, then the shoulders have not sufficient slope for the figure.

To remedy: Take in the shoulder ends as shown at 1 to 2 and 3 to 4, and lower the scye a little at 5 and 6, Section 16.

If the back balance is short and the neck is low behind at the collar stud, the linen collar will soon ride over the edge of the waistcoat. The remedy here is to pass the backs up on the side-seam, as shown previously at 1 in Section 14.

Another frequent cause is insufficient neck diameter, which is chiefly brought about by a badly cut neck-band. This should be cut straight without any inward curve, as shown by dotted lines at 7 and 8, Section 16A.

AlTERATIONS—ThEIR CAuSE AND CuRE 145

DIAGRAM 56.

Diagram 57

Waistcoat too Short in Length (Section 17) Features.—It occasionally happens that a customer

complains about his waistcoat being too short. With the present vogue of straight-bottom D.B. waistcoats, this may easily occur.

Remedy.—It is understood that the cutter wishes to save the expense of new material. If the waistcoat is in the try-on stage and there is ample inlay at the base of the back, no extra expense need be incurred ; but if this is not so, then another length of back lining will have to be used. It is much better in making the alteration to re-cut the pattern as follows: take the old back and lengthen the balance by dropping the sideseam as shown at 1, dotted lines. Next, give a similar amount of length to the front by adding a piece across the shoulder, as at 2 and 3.

Dress Waistcoat Loose at the Opening (Section 18) Features.—The general complaint in dress waistcoa

ts is the looseness at the opening when the wearer is seated.

Cause and Remedy.—Whilst this is due partly to the very long and open neck that is given to these waistcoats, the defect could be a voided by giving a longer back balance than usual, and also by taking the precaution to tighten the edge. of the opening by cutting the forepart across as shown in the diagram and overlapping the front at 1 to 2. This will open the scye front a little at 3, but this could very well be taken away in a small dart from 3 to 2 ; or the panel method could be adopted, as indicated on the diagram and as described elsewhere in this volume. To lengthen the balance. extend the back at 4, 5, and 6.

Loose at Top of Side-seam (Section 19) Features.—When the waistcoat is tried on. the top

of the side-seam appears too large. The fronts at the waist show a little tightness on the buttons.

Cause and Remedy.—The cause of this defect is an oversuppressed side-seam. To take in the top of the side-seam would make the waistcoat tight round the chest. The correct remedy is to let out the waist as shown by dotted line 1 to 2, and take in a corresponding amount at the back at 3.

Loose on Lower Buttons (Section 20) Features.—There is a distinct drag on top button

and the lower ones are too loose. Cause and Remedy.—The waistcoat has been cut too “straight” in the shoulder.

To rectify: Alter as dotted lines at 1 and 2. If there is no inlay at the scye at 1, a narrower shoulder will have to be given and the back adjusted to correspond. Take in a little at the side at 3.

AlTERATIONS—ThEIR CAuSE AND CuRE 147

DIAGRAM 57.

COATS