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5-22-1973
Large wheel-thrown pottery
Eddie Davis
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Recommended Citation
LAECS WHEEL - THROWN POTTERY
By
Eddie DavisCANDIDATE FOR MASTER OF FINE ARTS IN THE COLLEGE
OF FINE AND APPLIED ARTS OF THE ROCHESTER
INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
MAY
22,
1973
ADVISORS:
HOBART COWLES
DR. ROBERT JOHNSTON
^
*1
9
The purpose of this thesis is. to explore various
tocheques of making large clay forms on the potter* s
wheel. I will explore the limitations and possibilities
of making large pots and perhaps some sculpture from
a single piece of clay. I will also search out the
possibilities and limitation of "coil-thrown" forms.
I hope to achieve In these large forms an aesthetic
unltjr and a
spontaneity that I have achieved in smaller
forms. The works will be fired to stoneware.
CONTENT0
PHILOSOPHIC/^ ALTITUDE 1
FORMING METHODS, .3
MAKING A LAPGE POT FROM A SINGLE PIECE OF CLAY ''
COIL - THROW TECHNIQUE.
*
6
DESIGN OF LARGE PIECES
8
SECTION - THROW TECHNIQUE ?
SOME CONSIDERATIONS ABOUT FIRING .
9
QUALITY OF CLAY 10
MOVING LARGE POTS. .10
SUMMARY .32
EMBELLISHMENT,
FORMULAS FOR CLAY BODY AND GLAZES35
CONCLUSION
45
BIBLIOGRAPHY 46
ILLUSTRATIONS
..-11 -
31
COLOR PLATES . ,,
ptoj-Tj oppTJnrc.AT ATrpTTTTrE
^ach material has unique qualities. What attracts me
to clay is its ability to take
texture,
its plasticityand its ability to accept fire and glaze without
being
destroyed. I believe that the artls+r shoulduse p. material with respect to the job he has to
do,
the economy and ease with which that material willallow him to do that
job,
with respect to theunique quality that the material possesses and because he responds emotionally to that material.
An artist should st^-'ve to find and
develop
that unique quality which sets him apart from others. This'
has to ^o with
finding
what he likes and dislikes,
the way in which he perceives and interpretsstimulation and his ability to express his perceptions in a given material.
Tbe Importance of work In an artists*
develop
ment cannot be over estimated. Without challenging
and
taxing
involvement, there can be Mttle growthand maturation. Work sharpens the aesthetic sense
2
Watching
a tight rope walker Inch his way acrossa wire,
tilting
from side to side, isexciting, almost
frightening.
Hearing
music that has just the righttempo,
just the rightinstrumentation,
just theright mood can ve a very moving and memorable
experience.
Seeing
a pot of a particular shape, texture,
or color, can be equally as enriching andmemorable.
Rising
above technicalhandicaps,
evenbecoming
an innovator when necessary, utilizing justthe right combination and number of elements, just
the right
balance,
just the rightharmony,
is thechallenge of the artist.
I prefer to over-execute rather than
under-execute in an attempt to
bring
the clay to a technicaland aesthetic balance. To under-execute means that
I have not extended myself to the
fullest,
bothmentally and physically. It means that I have
stopped short of achieving my aesthetic goal and that
I have accepted second quality.
By
nottrying
toattain absolute perfection, something very important
has been compromised or lost. It should be the
philosophy of the artist to accept only the best.
It Is that kind of
desire,
that kind of quest, whichsupplies food for
learning;
that makes for goodcraftsmanship, and that is an important ingredient
Some potters may be
fascinated
by
glaze effectsor
by
form.This
can be perceivedImmediately
whenone looks at particular works.
Usually
there Is somedominant
feature.
One is overwhelmed
by
the color and texture ofancient Chinese celadon glazes. When
looking
at Igapbttery'
of
Japan,
one iskeenly
aware of the clay'stextural quality. I like to work with the clay
in its plastic state, sometimes
distorting
it,
sometimes scratching \n line patterns, sometimes rolling
on, or stamping in design patterns. To accent these
effects, I often add small coils of clay.
Glazing
is secondary and serves to enhance the modeling
of the clay surface. Often I like my pots better be
fore
they
are glazed.FORMING METHODS
Making
large pots on the potter's wheel hasfascinated me from the time that I became involved with
clay. At the very
beginning
I could make only smallforms. I was immature and unskilled with the clay.
I understood very little about the material.
Yet,
I would struggle with a large piece of clay, some
times as much as
fifty
or sixty pounds. Even thoughI was unsuccessful at
throwing
it,
I learned much,I*
the clay ras not rising to its fullest extent. Just
as
important,
and somewhat consoling, I found thatthe effort of
trying
to make a largeform,
madethrowing
a smaller piece of clay easier.This was the
beginning
of my involvement. It hastaken my four years*
involvement and my thesis work
to gain enough technical knowledge and skill to get
the clay up into forms that do not appear labored
and that perhaps have some aesthetic merit.
MAKING A LARGE POT FROM A SINGLE PIECE OF CLAY
At first I tried to make large forms from a
single piece of clay. The size of the pot that can
be made from a single piece of clay is determined
by
the length of one's arm, one's physical strengthand ingenuity. I have found that I am quite success
ful at
throwing
single forms of a weight ofthirty
to sixty pounds. At about
thirty
pounds,however,
the process becomes quite exhausting; especially
when a klckwheel is used.
Wedging
and centering a large piece of clay canbe the most exhausting aspect of the
throwing
process.Wedging
can be made easierby
(1)
slicing the clay5
(2) by
again cutting thelump
into three or foursmaller pieces and wedging each piece separately;
(3)
these wedged pieces are againforcefully
slappedtogether
androughly
centeredby
patting with thehand into a bullet-like shape. The clay is then
placed on the wheel.
Patting
with the hand is continued to
bring
the clay to almost perfect center.1When the wheel is
finally
spun, the potter has to exertonly a small amount of force In ordef to center the
clay.
By
making a pot from one piece of clay, it iseasier to get a unified form and the pot can be
finished in one sitting;
however,
there is a sizelimitation.
Opening
a large piece of clay can be accomplishedin several ways, I once saw a film of a Japanese
potter who pounded out the center of a large piece
of clay with his
fist,
leaving
enoughtclay for thebottom of the pot. He then pounded outward, compressing
and widening the bottom of the piece. The
theory
behind this Is that the pounding compacts and com
presses the clay. This helps to eliminate cracks
in the bottom of pots.
1
If the piece is very stiff, a wooden mallet can be
Other methods of opening a large piece of clay
are with the fist or with a stick as the wheel spins.
In either case, care should be taken to
keep
the fistor stick in the center of the clay as the potter
proceeds downward to what will become the bottom of
the pot. To make a strong, crack-free
bottom,
thefist can be used to spread the clay and to compress
the
bottom.
If one is makinglarge,
openforms,
theheel of the hand can be used to open*
the clay into
a thick bowl-like shape.
There are no fixed and exact methods of opening
that will satisfy the needs or work methods of all
potters. One has to find methods that will work for
oneself, that is left to one's
ingenuity
and insight.It is
Important,
however,
tokeep
the clay as wellcentered as possible and to
keep
the walls of thepot uniform in thickness.
COIL - THROW TECHNIQUE
The coil and throw technique eliminates centering
a large piece of clay and it requires less physical
strength. There is less stress on the electric wheel,
and a piece of any size can be made. The potter rolls
out a
long,
thick coil of clay, flattens the sidesslightly, and attaches it circularly to a slab
bottom.
The coll is wound upward upon itself to form a short,
added is
determined
by
the size of the form the potterwants to make. The coils are pinched together at the
joints.
The clay is thenthrown
to a desiredheight
and
thickness.
InJapan,
man-size storage jars aremade with this method, on a two-man kickwheel.1
The
form is made in etages, the potter often working at
intervals on several pieces. Each stage must be allowed
to stiffen sufficiently before the next coll can be
added.
If the piece dries unevenly, warping can occur
when the next coil is added. The weight of the next
coil causes the wetter side of the pot to bulge or
sag because of the pressure. This can be prevented
if the pot is dried carefully and evenly, or If it is
dried artificially with a propane torch. In some
rural areas of
Japan,
pieces ofburning
charcoal aresuspended
by
a chain Into the pot. InCyprus,
wherethere is a hot sun all year round - the potters work
out of doors - the sections stiffen
quickly and warping
is not such a problem. When working
Inside,
care mustbe taken to
keep
the section out of a draft becausethis can cause uneven drying.
1
The two-man wheels of Cyprus and Japan are early examples of a non-electric power t-?hc*l. The potter
and his aide
(who
propels the wheel) must work inDESIGN OF LARGE PIECES
More
planning
Is required when working on largepots. In many countries, the shapes o^ large storage
vessels are determined
by
tradition.
For the creativepotter, the challenge is making new shapes. Ideas can be gotten from
throwing
smaller froms orby
sketching.Through my own
frustrations,
andby looking
at traditionalpots from various cultures, I have found that the most
effective forms are simple and uncomplicated in their
design. Sometimes accentuations are made at points
where successive colls are added,
forming
aninteresting
design. I have made use of this "ribbing"
in my pots.
Large coil-thrown pots tend to
dry
from thebottom up. This can be retarded
by keeping
the lowerpart of the pot covered with
dry-cleaning
plasticor
by
wrapping withdamp
burlap
while work on the upperpart is continued. A small atomizer-like water sprayer
is also useful in
keeping
a piece moist.SECTION - THROW TECHNIQUE
A variation of the coil and throw technique is the
section-throw technique.
Many
contemporary pottersuse this method to make large forms. I have used
this technique for most of my large pieces. The pot
added to a stiffened base. The additional section
must be left thick enough to support itself and thick
enough to allow additional
throwing.
A ruler orcalipers can be used to measure the new section so
that it can be
accurately
fitted onto the stiff er one.The new section is thrown to match the thickness and
shape of the
preceedlng
section. This method allowsone to add greater amounts of clay than would be
possible with hand-rolled colls. Tt places less stress
on the preceedlng structure because the section is
already centered and thrown to some extent.
SOME CONSIDERATIONS ABOUT FIRING
Few pots were lost in the glaze
firing}
however,
great care was taken not to bisque too fast. Rapid
heating
generates too much steam, too quickly, whichcan explode or crack the wall of a pot. In some
African and Middle Eastern countries, straw or grass
is burned Inside of large pots before
they
are fired.This eliminates excess moisture from the bone
dry
clay.Care was also taken to eliminate hairline cracks
caused
by
too low abisque.
Instead of a cone 010or 08
bisque,
all pieces were fired to cone05,
andthe
firing
time was lengthenedby
four hours in both10
Wide bottomed pieces tended to crack more
than
the narrow bottomed pieces. In the
bisque,
all pieceswere elevated on stilts, one or two Inches
high,
toallow for complete circulation of the heat.
(Even
with a slow
firing,
I continued to lose wide bottomedpieces.) And since I prefer the elegant look of a
smaller
base,
I kept my pots narrow at the foot.QUALITY OF CLAY
A clay of good plasticity is an asset in making
large pots.
Usually,
plasticity in a claybody
canbe improved
by
aging orby
the addition of Jfo or lessbentonite to a
dry
mix clay body. A soft clay canease the effort of making a larger pot. In some
countries, a thixotropic clay Is used, enabling the
potter to work faster.
MOVING LARGE POTS
Occasionally help
is needed in moving a largepot, especially when the piece is wet or bone dry. ?fter
the bisque and glaze
firing
the piece can be rolled onits foot
by
one person. If a potter has nohelp,
he must design his studio in such a way that he can
work alone. A car kiln and special castors can
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-If the clay is very stiff a mallet
can be used to
help
'
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The clay is
slapped with the
hand to roughly
center it.
Minimal effort is
required to center
the clay after the
v:x.A:;:ti:i:
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A fist or a stickcan be used to open
the clay as the
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The bottom can be made without
fully
opening theclay at the top. It is compressed with the fist as the wheel spins.
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in
The first pulls are
made from the outside. The clay is drawn
upward and the
top
of the form is neckedin,
allowing only enou gh room for the hand and
arm to enter.
A piece of clay
A coil of clay is laia down and
attached to a slab
bottom.
A second coil is
H
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The coils are well joined both on the inside and
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The
lip
iscentered, tnickened,
and necked in.
Throwing
iscontinued in a
A tnick cylinder
is thrown and a
measurement is taicen.
A second cylinder
is thrown and
calibrated to fit on
The section of clay is cut away from the bat and
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The clay is
pulled upward and
collared in from the
outside.
The clay can be pulled up in a
conventional
fashion,
startingat the
bottom,
orthe potter can work
from the
top down,
pulling up several
small amounts of
SECTION - THROW TECHNIQUE
WITH
A form is thrown
to a desired shape
and tniotaiess and
allowed to stiffen.
A measurement is
tatcen and another
section of clay is
thrown to fit onto
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3,2
SUMMARY
One can create a variety of forms with the
techniques that are discussed in my report. That is
left to his creative ability and his ability to
make real his ideas. That is left to his desire
m
EMBELLISHMENT,
FORMULAS FOR CLAY BODY AND GLAZE JThe pots in plates
1,2,
and3
were made from singlepieces of clay. The surfaces were decorated with a small,
scissor-cut, plastic comb. In two of the examples
the forms have been pushed out with the finger tips
to make the clay look plastic and to create a design
pattern.
In all examples an ash glaze was used on stoneware
clay
body.
The formulas for both were given to meby
my former ceramicsteacher,
BillFarreTl,
of theArt Institute of Chicago:
ASH GLAZE CONE
9
Whiting
25.
Barium
20.
Kaolin
10.
Albany
65.
Wood Ash 10.
CLAY BODY
AP Green F.C ...^3.
Cedar Heights Goldart
*J-3
Kentucky-Tenn. B.C
\k.
_ j^
Add:
Bentonite Jfo
Grog
to taste or need...5-1:
In plate
2,
cobalt sulfate was sprayed over the ash38
Examples
kt
5,
and6
were thrown with thesection-throw-technique.
Inthese
pots, the ribbing, in manyinstances,
represents the points where additional clay was added.Sometimes,
however,
these ridges are presentfor aesthetics only. The pinched effect on the
lip
of example
b
and in the ribbing of pot5
resultedfrom a look at a Cretan pot.
However,
in my work withlarge pots, I can see how this pinching evolved
naturally as a result of the
forming
process.(A
coilof clay is pinched onto a stiffer section to make
a larger form.
)
A small concaved roller was used tocreate the
deep
ridges on the green plantei*pictured
in plate 5*
Green glaze formulat Cone
9
^0
claytf-0 ash
10 Spar
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";o'3:!s.S<#;'ii
45
"PUCLUSION
As a result of my the^s work my smaller pots
have become
more refined and I concentrate more on their form. I had expected my large pots to become expressionistand casual as my small pots were before I started my
thesis.
Instead,
I found that the methods employedin making large forms and the difference In scale
made it
difficult,
if notimpossible,
to executea large form as if it were a small piece. Often in
undertaking a specific
task,
one must make adjustments in his original plan and he should realize
that the results of his efforts will not always meet
his expectations. It is the depth of the work effort
46
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Herbert H. Sanders
The World of Japanese C-ramies
Kodansha
International
Ltd.Tokyo,
Japan & Palo .A!to, Calif., U.S.A.I967.
Daniel Rhodes
Tamla
Pottery
Kodansha International Ltd.
Tokyo,
Japan & PaloAlto,
Calif,,
U.S.A.I967.
George H. Weltner
Shojl,
Hamada,
Japanese Potter