Fabric+&+Apparel+Performance+Testing+Protocol

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FAB

FABRI

RIC A

C AND APP

ND APPA

ARE

REL

L

PERFOR

PERFORMA

MANCE TESTING

NCE TESTING

PROTOCOL

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GUIDE

GUIDELINES

LINES FOR FA

FOR FABRIC

BRIC AND

AND APPA

APPAREL

REL TESTIN

TESTING....

G...

...

... 3

3

1. 1. ADUL

ADULTS---

TS---

---

--- 3

3

2.

2. CHILDREN---

CHILDREN---

---

--- 5

5 FAB

FABRIC TESTIN

RIC TESTING A

G A ND PERFORM

ND PERFORMANCE

ANCE SPECI

SPECIFICATIONS

FICATIONS...

...

...7

7

1.

1. WOVEN

WOVEN FAB

FABRIC---

RIC---

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--- 7

7

2.

2. KNIT

KNIT FAB

FABRIC

RIC ---

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--- 9

9

3.

3. FUNCTI

FUNCTIONAL

ONAL FINISH

FINISHED

ED FAB

FABRICS

RICS AND

AND GARMENTS---

GARMENTS---

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--- 11

11 GARMENT TESTIN

GARMENT TESTING A

G AND PERFOR

ND PERFORMANCE SPECIF

MANCE SPECIFICATIONS

ICATIONS ....

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..12

12

1.

1. WOVEN

WOVEN GARMENTS

GARMENTS ---

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--- 12

12

2.

2. KNITWEAR CUT-S

KNITWEAR CUT-SEW G

EW GARMENTS

ARMENTS AND SWEATERS

AND SWEATERS---

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14

3. 3. LEA

LEATHER

THER GARMENTS

GARMENTS---

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16

4. 4. INTIMATE---

INTIMATE---

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17

5.

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Guidelines for Fabric and Apparel Testing

1. ADULTS

APPAREL

TESTS

TEXTILES TRIMS / ACCESSORIES

S=Standard Performance Tests F=Tests may be Performed in Fabric

Form NATURAL & REGENERATED FIBERS SYNTHETIC & BLEND FIBERS LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS LEATHER, COATED LEATHER LININGS FIBER CONTENT LAB ELING

1) Fiber Content F Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List

1) Blended Fibers 2) Single Fiber

a) Specialty Wool Fibers such as Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc.

b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool

c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur

4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request

CARE LABELING 2) Dimensional Stability to

Laundering S S S

3) Dimensional Stability to Dry

Cleaning S S

S

(Leather Clean) S 4) Appearance after Laundering S S S

5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning S S _{(Leather Clean)}S S

6) Colorfastness to LaunderingF S S S

7) Colorf astness to Dry CleaningF S S _{(Leather Clean)}S S

8) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine

BleachF(For USA Only) S S

Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer

to Trim Section

S

9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits ) Conditional List Conditional List Single Knits such as J ersey, French

Terry, Pique, etc. using Single Yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.),

Loose and Open Structured Fabrics

Conditional List

FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE 10) Flammabilit y (General Wearing

Ap par el)F Conditional List Conditional List

1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2(100 gm/m2, 23 momme)

Conditional List

2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface Exemptions - Fabrics made Entirely or in Combinations of Nylon,

Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers

For additional inform ation, refer to "Flammability Testing" in this Section of t he Manual

PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE 11) Colorfastness to Crocking

(Medium & Dark

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APPAREL

TESTS

S=Standard Performance Tests F=Tests may be Performed in Fabric

Form NATURAL & REGENERATED FIBERS SYNTHETIC & BLEND FIBERS LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS LEATHER, COATED LEATHER LININGS 12) Colorf astness to Water F Conditional List Conditional List

Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles

Conditional List

13) Colorfastness to LightF Conditional List Conditional List Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints,

Bright Colors, Golf and Tennis Apparel, Leather

Conditional List

14) Colorfast ness to Perspiratio nF Conditional List Silk, Golf and Tennis Apparel

15)

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water

Swimwear

Conditional List Conditional List

16) Colorfastness to Sea Water

Swimwear Conditional List Conditional List

17) pH

F

In White Color Fabric or For China Conditional List Conditional List

Conditional List

18) Tensile Strength (Woven)F S S S

19) Seam Slip page (Woven)F S S S

20) Tearing Strength (Woven)F S S S

21) Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) Conditional List Conditional List Seams determined to be with Weak

Sewing Threads or Low Stitch Density

Conditional List

22) Abrasio n Resistance (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Plain Fabric

Conditional List

23) Pilling ResistanceF Conditional List Conditional List Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded,

Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made of Wool, Acrylic,

Polyester/Cotton or Rayon Blends

Conditional List

24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane

Conditional List

25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Conditional List Conditional List Weak Knits, Very Light or Open

Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin

Conditional List

26) Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in

StorageF Conditional List Conditional List

Conditional List Contrast Colors / C olor Block

27) Colorf astness to Ozone (woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Denim or White

28) Pile RetentionF

Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velvet, Chenille, etc.

Conditional List Conditional List Conditional

List

29) Bowin g and SkewingF Conditional ListConditional List

Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe

30) Fabric WeightF S S

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Guidelines for Fabric and Apparel Testing

2. CHILDREN

APPAREL

TESTS

S=Standard Performance Tests F=Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form NATURAL & REGENERATED FIBERS SYNTHETIC & BLENDED FIBERS LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS LEATHER, COATED LEATHER LININGS FIBER CONTENT LAB ELING

1) Fiber ContentF Conditional List Conditional List

3) Blended Fibers 4) Single Fiber

a) Specialty Wool Fibers such as Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc.

b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool

c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur

4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request Conditional List CARE LABELING 2) Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) to Laundering S S S 3) Dimensional Stability

(Shrinkage) to Dry Cleaning S S

S

(Leather Clean) S 4) Appearance after Laundering S S S

5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning S S S

(Leather Clean) S

6) Colorf astness to LaunderingF S S S

7) Colorf astness to Dry CleaningF S S S

(Leather Clean) S

8) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine

BleachF(For USA Only) S S

Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer

to Trim Section

S

9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knit s) Conditional List Conditional List

Conditional List Single Knits such as J ersey,

French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics

FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE 10)Flammabilit y (General Wearing

Ap par el)F Conditional List

Conditional List 1) Plain Surface Fabrics

Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2₍₁₀₀

gm/m2, 23 momme)

Conditional List

2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface

Exemptions- Fabrics made Entirely or in Combination of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers

For additional Information, refer to "Flammability" in this section PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE 11) Colorf astness to Water F

Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles

Conditional List

12) Colorfastness to CrockingF S S S S

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APPAREL

TESTS

S=Standard Performance Tests F=Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form NATURAL & REGENERATED FIBERS SYNTHETIC & BLENDED FIBERS LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS LEATHER, COATED LEATHER LININGS 14) Colorfastness to LightF Conditional List

Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints, Bright Colors, Leather

Conditional List

15)Colorfastness to Saliva (Under

36 months) S S S 16)

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water

Swimwear

17)Colorf astness to Sea Water

Swimwear Conditional List

Conditional List

18) Tensile Strengt h (Woven)F S S S

19) Seam Slippage (Woven)F S S S

20) Tearing Strengt h (Woven)F S S S

21) Seam Breaking Streng th Conditional List Conditional List Seams determined to be with

Weak Sewing Thread or Low Stitch Density

Conditional List

22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F

Plain Fabric Conditional List

Conditional List

23) Pilling ResistanceF

Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made from Wool, Acrylic, P olyester / Cotton or Rayon Blends

Conditional List

24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane

25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Conditional List Weak Knits, Very Light or Open

Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin

Conditional List

26) Pile RetentionF Conditional List Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velour,

Chenille, etc. Conditional List Conditional List 27) pH S S S

28)Colorfastness to Dye Transfer

in StorgageF Conditional List

Conditional List Contrast Colors / Color Block

Conditional List

29)Colorfastness to Ozone

(Woven)F Conditional List

Denim or White

Conditional List

30) Bow ing and SkewingF Conditional List Conditional List

Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid

Check/Stripe

31) Fabric WeightF S S

Child Product Safety Tests and

Requirements Refer to Testing Protocol for Children's Apparel Safety in t his Section

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Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications

1. WOVEN FABRIC

Characterist ic

Test Method

End Use

Requirements

No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content AATCC 20 / 20A All For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actualresults (rounded to the nearest whole number)eventhe test resultsare within 3% tolerance.

Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 All +/- 3.0% Tolerance from Standard

Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3775 All +/- 5% Tolerance from Standard

Dimensional Stability to Laundering

3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim,

Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

AATCC 135 (modified) Other Brands: After 1 wash

Kate Spade: After 3 washes

Washable Fabrics

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3%

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics

Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics

No Growth

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning

One Time Only

Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on F abric/Trim Novelty,

Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

AATCC 158 Dry Cleanable Fabrics

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics

Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics

No Growth

Bowing: 1" Maximum.

Bowing and Skewing ASTM D 3882 All

Skewing: 3% of F abric Width or 1.5” Maximum.

Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 All Non-Exempt

Fabrics Class 1 ONLY

Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512,

30 minutes As requested 3.0 Minimum

Pile Retention

ASTM D 4685

(Face 300 cycles / Back 100 Cycles)

Pile Fabrics 3.5 Minimum, Face and Back Plain Fabrics up to

7.5 oz/yd2

No rupture to 10,000 cycles

Ab ras io n Res is tan ce ASTM D 4966

Plain Fabrics over 7.5 oz/yd2

No rupture to 15,000 cycles

Ab ras io n Fl ex (Op ti onal) ASTM D 3885

Linen Fabrics, Stiff

Fabric (e.g. densely woven or chemical finished stiffening with very little drape)

No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles Minimum

Ab ras io n Fl at (Fr os ti ng ) (Opt ional ) AATCC 119 Durable press, Top

stitch Color Change: 3.0 or better, 1200 Cycles Shorts, Pants,

J eans, J ackets

50 Lbs, Minimum Blouse, Skirt, Dress,

Lining

25 Lbs, Minimum

Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 – Grab

Method

Intimate <or equal 3 oz/yd2: min 25lbs; >3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs

Shorts, Pants, J eans, J ackets, All

Plus Size Styles

2.5 Lbs Minimum

Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles

1.5 Lbs Minimum

Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424

Intimate <3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs; 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5lbs

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Characterist ic

Test Method

End Use

Requirements

J eans, J ackets, All Plus Size Styles

1/4" Seam Opening / Separation Skirt, Dress, Blouse,

Shirt, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles

15 Lbs Minimum

1/4" Seam Opening / Separation

Intimate <4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs

¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation All, Except Silk and

Lining

25 Lbs Minimum Silk or Lining 15 Lbs Minimum

Seam Breaking Str ength ASTMD D 1683

Intimate <4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs

Elongation: 15 %, minimum All Bottom Weight

Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 4%, maximum, 30 minutes Elongation: 10%, minimum

Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs)

All Top Weight

Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 6%, maximum, 30 minutes All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or

better

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A

Refer to Liz# 3 COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine

Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) All Color Change: 4.0 or better

All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132

COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Dry: 4.0 or better All, except Below

Wet: 3.0 or better Dry: 4.0 or better Dark Shades (Black,

Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better

Indigos Dry: 3.0 or better; Wet: 2.0 or better

Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8

Pigments Dry: 3.5 or better; Wet: 2.5 or better All Color Change: 4.0 or better

Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107

Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU

5 AFU

All, Except Silk

Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in

Storage AATCC 163

Contrast Colors, Color Blockrefer to Liz#4

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) pH Value AATCC 81 All 5.0 - 6.0 (white color)

5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)

Colorfastness to Ozone AATCC 109 Denim or White 3.5 or better @ 2 cycles

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool

Water AATCC162 Swimwear

Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC106 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Restrict ed Substances (RS) Test

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Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications

2. KNIT FABRIC

Characteristic

Test Method

Applicable For

Requ irements

No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content AATCC 20 / 20A All For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number)

eventhe test resultsare within 3% tolerance.

Fabrics +/- 3% Tolerance from standard

Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776

Stretch Fabrics +/- 5% Tolerance from standard

Fabric Count (Wales & Courses) ASTM D 3887 All +/- 5% Tolerance from standard

Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty

Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

AATCC 135

Other Brands: After 1 wash

Kate Spade: After 3 washes

Washable Fabrics

Maximum, Length : -7%, Width: -7%, if the garment shrinkage is Length: -5%, Width:

-5% or less

All Synthetic or Synthetic Rich Fabrics-Maximum: Length: -5 %, Width: -5% or less

No Growth

One Time Only Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3%

Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

AATCC 158 Dry Cleanable

Fabrics No Growth

Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion; 3% Maximum for Stripes or Horizontal Stitches

Resistance to Torque (Spirality) Refer to Liz#1 Single Knits and

Loose Knits

Seam Torque: 5% Maximum

Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 Non-Exempt

Fabrics Class 1 ONLY ASTM D 3512, 30

Minutes

No Glue on Edges; Sew edges if needed All 4.0 Minimum Pilling Resistance ISO 12945-1, 4 hours Fabrics cannot undergone AS TM D3512 3-4 Minimum

Burst Strength ASTM D 3786 All

>or =150 gm/m2: 55 Lbs Per Square Inch (PS I), Minimum

<150 gm/m2: 45 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum

Sheer Knits (Lace, Mesh, etc.): 30 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum

Pile Retention ASTM D 4685 Pile Fabrics 3.5 Minimum

Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362

Sweater, Fabric with Filament Yarns weighing under 140 gm/m2, loose structures 3.5 Minimum

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims,

Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A

Refer to Liz# 3 COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) All Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

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Characteristic

Test Method

Applicable For

Requ irements

COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4

Dry: 4.0 or better All, Except below

Wet: 3.0 or better Dry: 4.0 or better Dark Colors (Black,

Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better Dry: 3.5 or better Pigments

Wet: 2.5 or better

Indigos Dry: 3.5 or better Wet: 2.0 or better

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107

5 AFU

All, Except Silk

Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better All Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163

Contrast Colors / Color Block

Refer to Liz#4

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC162 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC106 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better

pH Value AATCC 81 All 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)

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Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications

3. FUNCTIONAL FINISHED FABRICS AND GARMENTS

Functional Finish

Test Method

Requirements

Care Free, Wrinkl e Resist

Fabric & Seam Smoothness AATCC143 3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes

Fabric Crease Retention AATCC 88C 3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes

Non-Iron AATCC 124 4.0 Minimum Per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Original: 100 Rating

Water Repellency- Spray Test AATCC 22

After 3x Washes: 70 Rating Minimum

Water Resistance - Rain Test AATCC 35 1 gram Maximum on original and after 3 x washes

Stain Repellency Treated Fabrics

Original 20 x Washes Water Repellency AATCC 22 100 70 Minimum

Oil Repellency AATCC 118 6* 4 Minimum

Water / Alcohol Repellency Drop Test DuPont Method (AATCC 193) 6* *Tolerance 1 4 Minimum 1.0 second or Less Wicking AATCC 79

"Ciba" Method/Refer to Liz# 2 5 cm after 10 minutes Minimum for woven

10 cm after 30 minutes Minimum for knits Original: 0% Bacterial Growth

AATCC 147 (Leaching Type Agent)

20 Washes: 0% Bacterial Growth AATCC 100 (Non-Leaching Type

Agent) 99.9% Reduction, Minimum

Original: 99.9% Reduction, Minimum

An ti mi cr ob ial

ASTM E 2149 (Non-Leaching Type

Agent) 20 Washes: 80% Reduction, Minimum

Ultraviolet (UV) Protection AATCC 183

40 or above UPF Rating

Non-Mesh Fabrics 250 gm/m2 or above may be exempted

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Garment Testing and Performance Specifications

1. WOVEN GARMENTS

Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing Dimensional Stability to L aundering

3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

AATCC 150

Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes

Maximum, Length=- 3%, Width=-3%

Maximum, Length=-3%, Width=-5% for two-way Stretch Fabrics

Maximum, Length=-5%, Width=-5% for four-way Stretch fabrics

No Distortion Between Components No Growth

Ap pear anc e aft er L aun der in g 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

Visual

Acceptable Appearance

Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty,

AATCC 158

Maximum, Length=-3%, Width=-3%

Maximum, Length=-3%, Width=-5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics

Maximum, Length=-5%, Width=-5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics

Ap pear anc e aft er Dr y Cl eani ng Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty,

Visual Acceptable Appearance

Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing

No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends.

Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested Fabric)

AATCC 20 / 20A

For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actualresults (rounded to the nearest whole number)eventhe test resultsare within 3% tolerance.

Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims

are in Garment) 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY

25 Lbs Minimum (Pants, J eans, Short, J ackets, All Women Styles)

15 Lbs Minimum (Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Silk, Lining)

Seam Slippage (If additional trims,

novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) ASTM D 434

¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation

Seam Torque (Spiralit y) (Based on

Style) AATCC 179 5% Maximum Ad di ti on al Tes ts fo r Gar men ts Wit hout Fabr ic Test in g

Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard.

Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard.

Pilling Resistance ASM D 3512, 30 minutes 3.0 Minimum

Pile Retentio n ASTM D 4685

Face- 300 Cycles Back- 100 Cycles

3.5 Minimum, Face and Back ASTM D 4966

Ab ras io n Res is tan ce 10,000 Cycles 15,000 Cycles

No Rupture, Fabrics weighing up to 7.5 oz/yd2 No Rupture, Fabrics weighing over 7.5 oz/yd2

Ab ras io n Fl ex ASTM D 3885 No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles Minimum.

Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Shorts, Pants, J eans, J ackets: 50 bs Minimum Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining: 25 Lbs Minimum Shorts, Pants, J eans, J ackets, All P lus Size Styles: 2.5 Lbs Minimum

Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424

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Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

1.5 Lbs Minimum

25 Lbs Minimum (All, except Silk and Lining)

Seam Breaking Str ength ASTM D 1683

15 Lbs Minimum, Silk or Lining

All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods:

Elongation: 15% Minimum

Net Growth: 4% Maximum, 30 minutes

All Top Weight Stretch Goods:

Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs)

Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A

Refer to Liz# 3

For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining:

4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine

Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5

Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5

Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0 Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

5 AFU

4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk

Storage AATCC 163 Staining: 4.0 or better. pH Value AATCC 81 5.0 - 6.0 (white color)

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Garment Testing and Performance Specifications

2. KNITWEAR CUT-SEW GARMENTS AND SWEATERS

Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing

Maximum, Length: - 5%, Width: -5%

Dimensional Stability to L aundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim,

AATCC 150

No Distortion Between Components; No Growth

Ap pear anc e aft er L aun der in g

3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim,

Visual

Acceptable Appearance

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

AATCC 158

No Distortion Between Components; No Growth

Ap pear anc e aft er Dr y Cl eani ng

Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/-3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content (If Garment includes

Fibers, Trims, Other than Tested Fabric)AATCC 20 / 20A For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must

be based on actualresults (rounded to the nearest whole number)eventhe test resultsare within 3% tolerance.

Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are

in Garment) 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY Ad di ti on al Tes ts fo r Gar men ts wi th ou t Fab ri c Tes ti ng Cut-Sew - Fabric Weight (gm/m2or

oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from Standard. Sweater Weight Sweater Weighing Scale,

Lbs/Dozen +/- 3% Lbs from standard

Stitch Count (Wales x Courses) ASTM D 3887 +/ - 5% from standard

Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum.

Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion

Resistance to Torque (Spirality) Refer to Liz#1

Seam Torque: 5% Maximum

Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512

30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges 4.0 Minimum

Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362

3.5 Minimum, Sweater or Fabrics with Filament Yarns Weighing under 140 gm/m2 or Loose

structures

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A/

Refer to Liz#3 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Stainin g: 4.5 or better(white)

4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Non-chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Stainin g:

4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0 or better;

For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5 or better

Pigment/Indigo: Dry 3.5/ Wet 2.5 (pigment), 2.0 (Indigo)

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Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Stainin g:

4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Stainin g: 4.5 or better(white)

4.0 or better (other color)

AATCC 16, 20 AFU 4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk

Colorfastness to Light

5 AFU 4.0 Minimum, Silk

Storage AATCC 163 Staining: 4.0 or better pH Value AATCC 81 5.0 - 6.0 (white color)

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Garment Testing and Performance Specifications

3. LEATHER GARMENTS

Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

Mandatory Garment Tests Dimensional Stability to Cleaning Leather Cleaning Method

Maximum, Length: -2%, Width -2% No Distortion Between Components

Ap pear anc e aft er Dr y Cl eani ng Visual Acceptable Appearance

Dimensional Stability (for Washable

Leathers) Per Care Instructions

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% No Distortion Between Components

Ap pear anc e aft er Was hi ng Visual & Hand-Feel Acceptable. Hand-feel and appearance must compare favorable to before hand wash

Ad di ti onal Tes ts When Ap pl ic abl e

Colorfastness to Cleaning Leather Cleaning Method For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining:

4.5 or bett er(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Dry 3.0 or better

Wet: 2.0 or better

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining:

4.5 or bett er(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU

5 AFU

4.0 or better, All, Except Suedes 4.0 or better, S uedes

Tensile Strength ASTM D 2208 25 Lbs Minimum

Seam Streng th ASTM D 1683 20 Lbs Minimum

Flammability 16 CF R Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY

pH Value ISO4045 -1 4.0 – 7.5

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Garment Testing and Performance Specifications

4. INTIMATE

Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing

Woven:

Maximum, Length=- 3%, Width=-3%

Maximum, Length=-3%, Width=-5% for two-way Stretch Fabrics

Maximum, Length=-5%, Width=-5% for four-way Stretch fabrics

* Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras

Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty

AATCC 150

Knit:

Maximum, Length: - 5%, Width: -5%

No Distortion Between Components; No Growth * Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras

Ap pear anc e aft er L aun der in g 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty,

AATCC 158

Maximum, Length=-3%, Width=-3%

Maximum, Length=-3%, Width=-5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics

Maximum, Length=-5%, Width=-5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics

* Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras

Ap pear anc e aft er Dr y Cl eani ng Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty,

+/- 3% Tolerance for Blends.

Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested Fabric)

AATCC 20 / 20A

No Tolerance for Single Fiber

For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual findings even the results are within 3% tolerance.

Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are

in Garment) 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY

<4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs

Seam Slippage (If additional trims, novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) (Woven)

ASTM D 434

¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation

Seam Torqu e (Spirality) (Based on

Style) AATCC 179 5% Maximum Ad di ti on al Tes ts fo r Gar men ts Wit hout Fabr ic Test in g

Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard.

Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard.

Tensile Strength (Woven) ASTM D 5034 <or equal 3 oz/yd

2

: min 25lbs >3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs

Tearing Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1424

< 3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5 lbs

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Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs

Bursting Strength (Knit) ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum.

Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges Woven: 3.0 Minimum Knit: 4.0 Minimum

All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods

All Top Weight Stretch Goods:

Elongation: 10% Minimum Woven - ASTM D 3107

Stretch and Recovery

Knit - ASTM D 4964

Modulus: +/- 15 Recovery: 85% Elongation: +/- 10%

Seam Stretchability (Knit Seams) ASTM D1683 mod 7lbs min or 35% elongation Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims,

Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ / Glitter Print /Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A/

Refer to Liz# 3

For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining:

4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5

Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5

Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0 Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU

5 AFU

4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk

pH Value AATCC 81

5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)

Add it io nal Test s f or Br as On ly Bra Band Elongation Refer to Liz#6

1&2 Hook and Eye closure: 2.4 min & 1.5 max 3&4 Hook and Eye closure: 3.4 min & 2.5 max

Bra Seam Strengt h - Side

- Cup - Front

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Test Descript ion

Test Method

Requirements

Joining Strength

- Center Front J oining (Cup to Cup) - Strap Joining (Strap to Cup)

ASTM D1683 mod 15lbs

At tac hm ent Str eng th - Strap

Clear Elastic: 20lbs Woven/ Knit Elastic: 25lbs

- Embellishment

ASTM D1683 mod

17 lbs/10 secs

Bra Closure Strengt h (Hook and Eye) ASTM D1683 mod

1 Hook Bras: 25 lbs 2 – 3 Hook Bras: 35 lbs

Ad di ti on al Tes ts fo r Pad ded (Water / Gel Pad ) Br as On ly Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (for

Bra Pad through garment only) AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Color Change: 4.0 or better Resistance Compression (burst

strength)

Standard Measure Use Instron Compression Mode – with Compression J aws

100 psi minimum Content/ Material ID FTIR analysis Report Actual Restrict ed Substances (RS) Test

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5. DOWN

Test

Test Metho d

Requir ements

Content Labeling

Composition ASTM D4524

As Claimed

Must be 100% down to label as 100% Down, All Down, P ure Down

Must be minimum 75% down to label as unqualified “Down”

+/- 2 to 5% Tolerance for unavoidable variations

Species

Goose or Duck Microscopic As claimed. Must be 90% of the plumage to label_{the specie}

Cleanliness

Oxygen Number IDFB Part 7 <10 Turbidity IDFB Part 11-A <10 NTU

Penetration

Penetration of Resistance of Cloth

Federal Standard

191A, Method 5530 Minimum Penetration (1 or 2)

Certification Certification and Documentation US Wildlife and Endangered Species (Refer to Manual under Customs)

Goose, Duck, etc. originated from Asia and China require Health Certificate and Fumigation

Certificate due to Avian Influenza. The health certificate should consists species common name; scientific name; country of origin and

farm raised/taken from wild.

If not from Asia and China, vendor has to submit Declaration from material supplier to state the feathers were treated and sourced from origin and are not prohibited or endangered.

Appar el w ith Dow n

Must test garment according to care instruction and pass