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YOUR GUIDE TO - FLORENCE

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YOUR GUIDE TO

- FLORENCE

Copyright 2006

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CONTENTS

1.0 - WELCOME

1.1 - YOUR AUDIO GUIDE 1.2 - YOUR PRINTED GUIDE

2.0 - MAP

3.0 - GETTING AROUND

3.1 - FROM THE AIRPORT 3.2 - BY BUS 3.3 - BY TAXI

4.0 - THE HIT LIST

4.1 - PALACES 4.2 - CHURCHES 4.3 - GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS

5.0 - EATING & DRINKING

5.1 - CAFES 5.2 - RESTAURANTS 5.3 - BARS

6.0 - SHOPS

6.1 - CLOTHES 6.2 - ACCESSORIES 6.3 - TOILETRIES & COSMETICS 6.4 - TOYS 6.5 - FOOD

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1.0 - WELCOME

1.1 - Your audio guide:

Thanks very much for choosing this MP3 city guide to Florence. If you've already done any of our walks before you'll know how it works but if not, I'll tell you now.

As you've probably already noticed, each of these sections of the walk that you've downloaded on to your machine has a name. The first is 'Duomo'. Just consider each of these walks as individual tracks on an 'album' which is the complete tour. You'll hear directions about where to go next at the end of each section but the route and the stopping points are also marked on your map which is part of this Printed Guide.

When you get to a stopping point find somewhere to stand or sit which is out of the way of people and traffic and then play the next section of the walk. At some sites though, we'll suggest you walk while we talk so that we can point out other interesting buildings or statues to you or just so that you can start making your way to next stop on the tour.

The map has been especially produced to help you find your way while you're listening to the audio guide which means that it's not drawn exactly to scale.

Top tip: When you print out this Printed Guide or, at least, the map, set your printer to high quality or

fine print so that the map is as clear as possible and easy to read.

Please take care when you're using the audio guide: Florence is a relatively safe, law abiding city but do keep an eye out for pick pockets and watch out when you're crossing the road.

When we get to something like a church or museum, after I've described it you might want to go in or you might want to buy a ticket for later if it looks crowded. Or you might just want to carry on and come back and visit it afterwards now that you know where it is.

Top tip: Play a few sections of the tour on your MP3 player or iPod before you go just to check that

they've downloaded OK.

1.2 - Your Printed Guide

This printed guide complements your audio guide. We know that exploring a city can take more than one visit - and possibly even a life time so we've pared our guide down to what we think are the essential things to see and do. They're included in The Hit List.

We've done our best to get it right and, because we're an internet based guide rather than a conventional guide book, we can update our information very quickly.

That said, many places change their opening times at very short notice so please accept our apologies if you arrive somewhere and, despite what we've said, you find it's shut. As with your aduio guide, if you find that something - museum, gallery, church, bar or restaurant - is not as we've described it then please do let us know by contactingus as [email protected].

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START

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

FINISH

VI A D EI C AL ZA IUO LI VIA DEI SPEZIALI

VIA DELLA PORTA ROSSA

VIA CALIMARUZZA VIA PO R SA NTA MARI A BO RG O S AN JA COP O VIA D E' GU ICCIA RDINI VIA MA GG IO PIAZ ZA SAN FELICE VIA MA ZZE TT A VI A SANT AG OS TO VIA DE' S ERRA GLI VIA SANT A MONI CA BO RGO SA N FRED IANO LU NGA RNO GU ICC IARDIN I PIAZ ZA SA NT A T RINITA VIA TORN ABU ONI VIA DEGL I STRO ZZI VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOV

A VI A DELL A S PA DA VI A D EL S OL E VI A DE LL E B EL LE D ON N E VI A DELL A SC AL A VIA D A VE LLI PIAZZA DELL' UN ITA ITA LIANA

VIA DEL MELARANCIO

PIAZZA M D ALDOBRANDINI VI A DEL L' AR IEN TO VI A D E I' GI N OR I ORSANMICHELE PALAZZO VECCHIO UFFIZI UFFIZI SANTA TRINITA PALAZZO STROZZI RAILWAY STATION MERCARTO CENTRALE PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI

2.0 - MAP - FLORENCE

STOPS > 1 DUOMO

2 PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA 3 PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA 4 MERCATO NUOVO 5 PONTE VECCHIO 6 PALAZZO PITTI 7 SANTO SPIRITO

8 SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE 9 PONTE SANTA TRINITA 10 SANTA MARIA NOVELLA 11 SAN LORENZO

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3.0 - GETTING AROUND

3.1 - From the airport:

Flying from Pisa: the train goes direct from the airport to Florence Santa Maria Novella railway station and takes about an hour to an hour and half. There is also a coach service which takes just over an hour. Both cost about EURO 15.

Increasingly flights are coming into the city's own airport Amerigo Vespucci, also as known Peretola. The bus takes about 30 to 45 minutes and arrives at the bus station which is near the railway station. It costs EURO 4. A taxi takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about EURO 20.

3.2 - By Bus:

You can walk around the centre of Florence very easily but the bus can be useful. Bus tickets are available from tabacchi, newsstands and bars and cost EURO 1. Stamp them in the machine on the bus. You can also get a ticket which is valid for unlimited travel over 24 hours called a biglietto venitquattro ore for EURO 4.50 For more information visit www.ataf.net and click 'English version' in the top left hand corner.

3.3 - By Taxi:

Taxis are not easy to find and can be expensive. There are ranks in the Piazza della Repubblica, Piazza Santa Maria Novella and Piazza del Duomo amongst other places. The best bet is to ask your hotel or restaurant to order you one otherwise call + 39 055 4390 or +39 055 4390.

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4.0 - THE HIT LIST

4.1 Palaces:

Palazzo Vecchio The seat of Florentine government with state apartments and a spectacular great

hall. Open 15 June to 15 September Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday 9am - 7pm Thursday and Sunday 9am to 2pm Monday and Friday 9am - 11pm. 16 September to 14 June Saturday to Wednesday 9am - 7pm and Thursday and Sunday 9am - 2pm.

Piazza della Signoria

Palazzo Pitti The Medici's residence in Oltrarno, across the river has several museums with works by

Filippino Lippi, Titian and Caravaggio. The state rooms are sumptuous and the Boboli gardens are beautiful and calm.

Galleria Palatina and royal apartments and the Galleria del Arte Moderna are open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am - 6.50pm.

The Museo degli Argenti or Medici Treasury opens daily at 8.15am and closes at: 4.30pm (November to February) 5.30pm (March and October) and 6.30pm (April, May, September and October) and 7.30pm (June to August)

The Boboli Gardens are open daily November to January 9am - 4.30pm, March 8.15am - 5.30pm, April May, September and October 8.15am - 6.30pm, June and August 8.15am - 7.30pm. Closed first and last Monday of the month.

Piazza di Pitti www.polomuseale.firenze.it/english/musei/palazzopitti

Palazzo Medici-Riccardi Richly decorated home of the Medicis. The Capella dei Magi with its

beautiful frescoes is a must. Open daily 9am - 7pm. Closed Wednesday. 1 Via Cavour www.palazzo-medici.it

4.2 - Churches:

NB Most of these are working churches - please be respectful during services. Duomo Florence's great cathedral Open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday Friday 10am, - 5pm,

Saturday 10am - 4.45pm and Sunday 1.30pm - 4.45pm. First Saturday of the month 10am - 3.30pm. Piazza del Duomo

Baptistry Stunning interior with mosaics and gothic figures. Open Monday to Saturday noon - 7pm

Sunday and holidays 8.30am - 2pm. Piazza del Duomo

Church of Santo Spirito Open, elegant church interior, the last by Brunelleschi Open Monday to

Friday 8am - noon and 4pm - 5.30pm Saturday and Sunday 4pm - 5.30pm but closed Wednesday afternoon.

Piazza di Santo

Church of Santa Maria del Carmine Stunning frescoes by Masaccio which changed the course

of art history. Open Monday and Wednesday to Saturday 10am - 5pm and Sunday 1pm -5pm. Piazza del Carmine

Church of San Lorenzo Almost overwhelmingly opulent church and crypt built for the Medicis

Open Monday to Saturday 10am - 5pm. Piazza San Lorenzo

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Church of San Marco Beautiful church and monastery with monks' cells decorated with delicate

frescoes. The subtle, highly refined works of Fra Angelico are the highlight. Open Monday to Friday 8.15am - 1.50pm, Saturday 8.15am - 6.50pm, Sunday 8.15am - 7pm. Closed first, third and fifth Sunday and second and fourth Monday of the each month. Piazza di San Marco www.polomuse-ale.firenze.it/sanmarco

Church of Santa Trinita Don't miss the Cappella Sassetti with frescoes by Ghirlandaio. Open

daily 8am - noon and 4pm - 6pm. Piazza Santa Trinita

Church of Ognissanti Works by Ghirlandaio including portrait of Amerigo Verspucci after whom

America is thought to be named. Open daily 8am - noon and 4pm - 7pm. 42 Borgo Ognissanti

Church of Santa Maria Novella Magnificent church with shady cloister and works by Giotto and

Brunelleschi amongst others. Open: Monday to Saturday 7am - noon and 3.30pm until 6pm Sunday 3.30pm - 6pm. Museum Monday to Thursday Saturday and Sunday 9am - 1.30pm. Piazza de Santa Maria Novella

Church of San Miniato al Monte Richly decorated Romanesque church that is worth the walk up

the hill. Open daily 8am - noon and 2pm - 7pm April to September and then 8am - noon and 2.30pm - 6pm.

34 Via delle Porte Sante

Church of Orsanmichele - formerly a warehouse for wheat, is has some beautiful, delicate frescoes.

Open daily 9am - noon and 4pm - 6pm. Via dell'Arte della Lana

4.3 - Galleries and Museums:

The Uffizi One of the greatest collections of art in the world with Northern European works as well

as Italian Renaissance and Gothic paintings. Take a break half way through your visit in the cafe which is small but has good views of the city.

Advance booking strongly advised, especially during the summer.

Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am - 6.50pm. Occasionally until 10pm. Piazza della Signoria www.uffizi.firenze.it

Galleria dell'Accademia Most people come to see Michaelangelo's David but the collection of

paintings and sculptors from the Renaissance and earlier is vast. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am - 6.50pm. 58-60 Via Riscassoli www.polomuseale.firenze.it/english/musei/accademia

Museo Nazionale del Bargello Sculptures by Michaelangelo and Giambologna amongst others

Open daily 8.15am - 6pm. Closed 2nd and 4th Monday of the month.

4 Via del Proconsolo (by the Piazza della Signoria)www.polomuseale.firenze.it/bargello

NB Italian street numbers come in two varieties - black are residential or private while red numbers

are commercial (and include restaurants) and these are written with an 'r' after them. Make sure you look out for the red number plates in the streets.

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5.0 - EATING AND DRINKING

5.1 - Cafes:

Duomo/central

Caffe Rivoire Great view of the Palazzo Vecchio and particularly good for hot chocolate and ice

cream. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8am - midnight. Piazza della Signoria

Caffe Gilli Belle Epoque decorations and wonderful hot chocolate. Open daily except Tuesday

8am - midnight. Piazza della Repubblica

Caffe Concerto Paszkowski Great for just watching the Italians in action at the bar - both serving

and gossiping over their espressos. Concerts during the summer. Open Tuesday to Sunday 7am - 1.30pm.

Piazza della Repubblica

Giubbe Rosse The name comes from the waiters' distinctive red jackets. Grand but slightly more

bohemian that its neighbours. Open daily 7.30am - 2am Piazza della Repubblica

Santa Croce/San Lorenzo

Casa del Vino Tiny cafe and bar with wooden shelves lined with bottles and an endless supply of

crostini, anti pasti and sweets. Open Monday to Friday 9.30am - 7pm and Saturday during the winter.

16r Via dell'Ariento

Santa Maria Novella/San Lorenzo

Amerini Imaginative anti pasti and snacks. Popular with shoppers. Open: Monday to Saturday

8am - 8pm.

63r Via della Vigna Nuova

5.2 - Restaurants:

Prices: Budget : main courses up to EURO 15 Moderate: EURO 15- 25 Expensive: EURO 25 and

upwards

NB If you're ringing a restaurant, note that you keep the first '0' of the code for Florence which is 055. Duomo/Central

Angels Cool, minimalist restaurant and bar. Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate.

29-31 Via del Proconsolo T: + 39 055 239 8762 www.ristoranteangels.it

Santa Maria Novella/San Lorenzo

Rosticceria della Spada Solid Italian cooking with an impressive display of roast chicken, veal

and beef in a traditional restaurant. Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate. 62r Via della Spada T: + 39 055 218 757 www.laspadaitalia.com

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Osteria delle Belle Donne Can be difficult to find because there is no sign. But good, unpretentious

food and regular changing menu on the blackboard. Italian language students sit next to smart shoppers in this busy, comfortable eatery. Open: Monday to Friday lunch and dinner. Price: Budget/Moderate

16r Via della Spada T: + 39 055 238 2609

Uvafragola Good quality standard Italian cooking especially pizzas. Open: Daily (except

Wednesday) lunch and dinner. Price: Budget 9-10 Piazza Santa Maria Novella T: + 39 055 215387

San Lorenzo/Santa Croce

Ristorante Leo Well established restaurant with friendly atmosphere which serves hearty Tuscan

food and specialises in the famous steaks called Bistecca Fiorentina. Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate

7r Via Torta T: + 39 055 210 829 www.florencerestaurant.com

Da Sergio Simple well made pizzas and pasta in busy but friendly surroundings. Open: Monday

to Saturday lunch and dinner Price: Budget 8r Piazza San Lorenzo T: + 39 055 281 941

Tirovino Simple but well made Tuscan cooking in a family run restaurant with hearty portions and

an emphasis on meat. Open: Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate 70r Via Ghibellina T: + 39 055 263 8940www.tirovino.com

Enoteca Pinchiorri With its two Michelin stars, this is said to be the best restaurant in Florence.

Imaginative international cooking includes lobster risotto and dark chocolate and banana tart. Jackets essential for gentlemen. Open: Daily dinner, lunch Thursday to Saturday. Price: Expensive - up to EURO 125 per person.

87 Via Ghibellina T: + 39 055 242 777 www.pinchiorri.it (difficult to navigate - click language then four square symbol at the bottom of the page)

Baldovino A restaurant and a cafe/wine bar/enoteca opposite each other

Restaurant: Classic Tuscan dishes but with a lightness of touch a modern twist. Open: Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner Price: Moderate.

22r Via San Guiseppe T: + 39 055 241 773

Cafe: Light, modern international cooking such as chicken and fennel salad or sweet pepper and ricotta quiche. Buy bottles of wine to take away. Open: Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner. Price: Budget

18r Via San Guiseppe T: + 39 055 234 7220 www.baldovino.com

Cibreo Classic but imaginative Tuscan cooking. Open: Tuesday to Saturday lunch and dinner.

Price: Moderate/Expensive.

118r Via dei Macci T: + 39 055 234 1100

Cibreino Round the corner at 35 Piazza Ghiberti (T: + 39 055 234 1100) Although it shares a kitchen with its pricier neighbour, food is simple and hearty such as stuffed rabbit and veal and ricotta meat balls. You'll probably find yourself sharing a table. Price: Budget/Moderate.

Oltrarno

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Cavolo Nero Modern takes on some classic Tuscan cooking as well as dishes from elsewhere in

Italy such as spaghetti alla bottarga - spaghetti with a rich, smoked fish roe sauce. Lovely garden available in the summer but you'll need to book to get a table there. Open: Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate

22r Via dell'Ardiglione T: + 39 055 294 744

Pandemonio Fresh take on classic Tuscan dishes are mixed with good Bistecca Fiorentina at this

family run restaurant with its own garden. Extra rich ice cream with pine nuts is a speciality. Open: Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate

50r via del Leone T: + 39 055 224 002

5.3 - Bars: Duomo/Central

Angels (for details see Restaurant section) Santa Maria Novella/San Lorenzo

Art Bar The deco might be a bit naff with its faded prints of jazz singers but the young, student

crowd provides a good atmosphere. Open: 7pm - 1am Monday to Thursday and 7pm - 2am Friday and Saturday.

4r Via del Moro

San Lorenzo/Santa Croce

Nannini Coffee Shop Great for cakes and deserts including panforte, a Siennese speciality a bit

like nougat. Open: 7.30am - 7.30pm daily (until 8.30pm Saturday) 7r Via Borgo

Bar Vivoli Gelateria Small and always busy, this Florence institution serves wonderful ice cream in

every flavour you could dream of. Open: 7.30am - midnight. 7r Via Isola delle Stinche

Oltrarno

Dolce Vita Relaxed bar with seating inside and outside on a little terrace. Open: 5pm - 2am daily.

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6.0 - SHOPS

Via Tornabuoni and Via Strozzi are the smartest shopping streets for designer labels. Via dei Calzaiuoli is more accessible. Around the Mercato Centrale you'll find some real bargains. Most shops are open all day from Monday to Saturday unless otherwise stated. Some are closed on Monday morning.

6.1 - Clothes:

Stockhouse Il Giglio Monday to Saturday 9.30am - 7pm. Discount designer outlet popular with

Florentines.

86r Borgo Ognissanti T:+ 39 055 217 596

Francesco da Firenze This family run business has been hand making wonderful shoes for men

and women for years. Open Monday to Saturday 9am - noon and 3pm - 7pm. 62r Via di Santo Spirito T: + 39 055 212 428

Luisa Via Roma Well known designer and label and smaller brand name accessories and shoes

are available here as well as an in-house espresso bar. Open Monday to Saturday 10am - 7pm. 24 Via Roma T: + 39 055 217 826

Space This dramatic minimalist space amongst the glitz of Florence's smartest street is the

back-drop for a range of celebrated and less well known designers. Open 9.30am - 7.30pm. 17r Via Tornabuoni T: + 39 055 216 943

Replay Cool, relaxed womens and menswear. Open Monday to Saturday 10am - 7.30pm and

Sunday 2.30-6pm.

7-9r Via dei Pecori T: + 39 055 293 041

The Mall Luxury and designer labels at knock down prices are to be found in this smart factory

outlet just outside the town of Leccio near Florence. Take the train from Santa Maria Novella Station or ring The Mall for the shuttle bus direct from Florence (costs about EURO 25). Open: Monday to Saturday and Sunday afternoon but ring beforehand.

8 Via Europa, Leccio. T: + 39 005 865 7775

6.2 - Accessories:

Madova Wonderful range of leather gloves in all sizes, styles and colours. Open Monday to

Saturday 9.30am - 7.30pm

1 Via Guicciardini T: + 39 055 239 6526 www.madova.com

Bojola Smart but practical and beautifully made leather bags, wallets and purses. Open Monday to

Saturday 9.30am - 7pm.

25r Via dei Rondinelli T: + 39 055 211 155

6.3 - Toiletries/Cosmetics:

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Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella More like a cathedral than a shop but

then it was founded in 1221 by a group of Dominican friars. It sells beautifully decorated fragrances and cosmetics. Open Monday to Friday 9.30pm - 7.30pm and Sunday 10.30am - 6pm.

16 Via della Scala (street next to the church of Santa Maria Novella) T: + 39 055 216 276

6.4 - Toys:

Bartolucci Family run business which carves attractive, imaginative toys, games and models - even

motorbikes - out of pine. Open daily 9.30am - 7pm

12r Via della Condotta T: + 39 055 211 773 and 11r Borgo dei Greci T: + 39 055 239 8596 www.bartolucci.com

6.5 - Food:

Procacci Impressive range of Tuscan wines, preserves and sweets. The famous white truffle is

available in jars and pates and fresh during the season at the end of year. Open Monday to Saturday 10am - 6pm.

64r Via de' Tornabuoni T: + 39 055 211 656

Enoteca Romano Gambi Luxurious deli/grocers selling Tuscan specialities including wine, olive

oil, truffles and chocolate. Open Monday to Saturday 10am - 7pm. 21-23r Borgo SS Apostoli T: + 39 055 29 26 46

La Bottega dell'Olio Olive oil by the bottle including some very grand varieties plus soaps and

lotions made from olive oil and kitchen accessories in olive tree wood. Open Monday to Saturday 9.30am - 7pm.

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