Gap Inc.
Gap
Banana Republic Old Navy
0DUFKVW
To All Gap, Inc. Vendors,
Attached is the February 2001 QA Manual for Garments, for use as a guide to auditing all Gap
Inc. programs. Following is an outline of the changes that were made from the previous version of
the manual:
•
In-line and Interim inspections have been combined and are now called In-process
inspections.
•
Forms have been changed to global forms.
•
Country of Origin information is no longer included in the QA manual the information is
in the Vendor handbook.
•
Shipment/Packing audit has changed to allow for non-destructive audits.
•
Added bar-coded ticket OCR ticket/label check into visual audit.
•
Measurement sampling plan has changed.
•
Pack audits are now the responsibility of the Vendor.
•
Change in the sampling plan for outlet.
•
We have eliminated the double sampling plan.
•
We have added a section for how to audit tight fitting sleepwear.
It is imperative to retrain your teams and utilize the new handbook effective March 1
st, 2001 to
audit our products.
Should you have any questions please contact me directly at (415) 427-6489.
Doreen Maller
Quality Assurance Manual
Garments
2001
Table of Contents
page #
Introduction
... 4Contacts... 5
I.
Factory Visit Procedures
Preparation ... 7II.
Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)
What is A.Q.L.? ... 8Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards ... 8
Critical Defects ... 8
Result of Finding A Critical Defect ... 8
III.
In-Process Inspection
Purpose... 9In-Process Inspection Forms ... 9
Cutting Inspection Procedures ... 9
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures... 10
IV.
Shipment Inspection
Purpose... 12Shipment Inspection Forms ... 12
Shipment Inspection Methods... 12
Measurement Audit ... 13
Measurement Audit Procedures ... 13
“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures ... 13
Measurement Audit Sampling Plan ... 14
Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects ... 14
Visual Audit... 15
Visual Audit Methods... 15
Visual Audit Reference Sheets (Classification of Visual Defects)... 15
Visual Audit Sampling Plans ... 15
Visual Audit Procedures... 16
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits ... 18
Gap/Old Navy Procedures ... 18
Banana Republic Procedures... 19
Gap Asia Auditing Procedures... 19
Seconds & Overruns ... 19
Pack Audit... 20
Pack Audit Procedures... 20
Pack Audit Sampling Plan ... 21
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs ... 22
Full Carton/CD Flow Auditing Procedures... 22
Japanese Purchase Order Auditing Procedures... 23
Outlet Division Standards... 24
Table of Contents (con’t)
page #
Outlet Auditing Types... 24
Outlet Auditing Procedures ... 24
Seconds & Overruns ... 24
Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet ... 25
Outlet Defects Classification Guide...25
V.
Safety Procedures
Safety Procedures, kids & baby... 26VI. Broken Needle Standards
Broken Needle Forms ... 27Broken Needle Procedures... 27
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures ... 27
VII. Country of Origin
(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ... 29VIII. Carton/Prepack
(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ... 30IX.
Appendix 1 (General Forms)
In-Process Inspection Report... AI-2 Visual Inspection Worksheet ... AI-3 In-Process Audit Worksheet ... AI-4 In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report... AI-5 Visual Inspection Report ... AI-6 Finished Product Measurement Sheet... AI-8 Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops)... AI-9 Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) ... AI-10 Outlet Inspection Report... AI-11 Broken Needle Log ... AI-12 Box Audit Worksheet ... AI-13
Introduction
The purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to outline the procedures Quality Assurance personnel (QA) follow when measuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture Gap Inc. products. This Manual will guide QA through each stage of their assignment: new production, monitoring production, performing In-process and shipment audits and, finally, communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives.
In addition to serving as a guide for Gap Inc. QA, this Manual was created to ensure vendors understand Gap Inc.’s expectations in categories such as product’s visual appearance, measurement accuracy and packing execution. This Manual is a useful resource for QA personnel, garment vendors and GIS offices that do business with
Gap Inc. Please familiarize yourself with the Manual in its entirety, paying close attention to Gap Inc.’s quality standards as well as the penalties resulting from failure to meet those standards.
If you have any questions regarding the standards and procedures included within this manual, please contact: Gap Inc.
Attn: Diane Maclane 2 Harrison Street San Francisco, CA 94105 phone: (415) 427-6470
This Manual is the property of Gap Inc. This proprietary information is provided in confidence and is solely for use in connection with dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. While in your company’s possession, the Manual is to be maintained in strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose of your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The Manual shall be returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon cessation of your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or upon Gap Inc.’s request.
Contacts
GIS Offices
GIS Americas: Regional Director of Quality Assurance 5200 Blue Lagoon Drive
Miami, Florida USA
GIS Hong Kong: China Hong Kong City 21st and 22nd Floor, Tower 3 33 Canton Road
Tsimshatsui Kowloon Hong Kong
Tel: 852.2.730.9883 Fax: 852.2.736.8903 GIS Egypt: World Trade Center 1191
Corniche El Nil Cairo Egypt
GIS Singapore: No. 391B Orchard Road
#22-6/7/8/9 Ngee Ann City, Singapore Tower B 238874
Tel: 65.734.0388 Fax: 65.733.5113 GIS Philippines: 3rd Floor Tesoro Bldg.
Amaiz Ave. Makati City Philippines
GIS Sri Lanka: Level 6 Valiant Towers #46/7 Nawam Mawatha
Colombo 02 Sri Lanka
GIS Dubai: LOB 20, G-60 Jebel Ali Free Zone Dubai U.A.E.
Contacts (con’t)
GIS Istanbul: Akmerkez B-3 Blok Kat 11 Etiler 80600, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90.212.282.0420 Fax: 90.212.282.0417 GIS North Africa: Route De Sousse
Telboulba, ZI 5080 Tunisia GIS Thailand: Unit 2308 Empire Tower
195 South Sathorn Road Yannawa, Sathhorn BKK 10120, Thailand Tel: 662.6700.168.73 Fax: 662.6700.176 GIS South Africa: Suite 2305-2307, 23rd floor
The Embassy Building 199 Smith Street
Durban 4001, South Africa Tel: 27.31.335.2500 Fax: 27.31.368.2628
I. Factory Visit Procedures
Preparation
Before visiting a factory, a QA representative must carry out the following:
• Verify vendor is on Global Compliance’s approved vendor list.
• Obtain factory contact name, phone number and address.
• Obtain copies of Purchase Orders.
• Secure fabric/yarn color swatches and/or hand and finish standards.
• Obtain the approved sample.
• Obtain manufacturing specifications, including Garment Specification Sheet (GSS).
• Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and faxes
as well as product/fabric/component testing reports. • Obtain approved production schedules.
During initial visit, a QA representative must carry out the following:
• Verify factory owns required machinery for attaching buttons (lock-stitch machines), snaps (machines and snap supplier is on approved vendor list).
• Verify factory has testing and in-house monitoring systems in place for safety and performance issues.
II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)
What is A.Q.L.?
Acceptable Quality Level is the quality level, which, for purposes of sampling inspection, is the limit of a satisfactory manufacturing process.
Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards
Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. standards when appraising a vendor’s manufacturing process during shipment audits are as follows:
• 0.1 for appraising Critical Visual Defects
• 0.25 for OCR/Ticket Defects
• 4.0 or 2.5 for appraising Major Visual Defects (varies by division)
• 6.5 for appraising Minor Visual Defects
• 6.5 for appraising Major Measurement Defects
(Note: The selection or use of an A.Q.L. does not imply that the contractor has the right to supply any defective unit of product).
Critical Defects
A Critical Defect is defined as anything potentially harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to, sharp points/edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful. Improper or inaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings and CPSC snug fitting sleepwear measurements that are greater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects.
Result of Finding A Critical Defect
Visual
If a Critical Visual Defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All Critical Visual Defects must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.
Measurement
Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS). It will state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement page of the GSS, measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.
Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points (those not in capital letters) are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1. If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.
III. In-Process Inspection
Purpose
The purpose of an In-Process inspection is to check the following: raw materials, marker layout, spreading, cutting, sewing, wet processing, screen printing, pressing and other embellishments. Sampling plan should not be used at this stage since a lot size is a bundle. For woven and knit production, the first In-Process inspection begins when knitting/weaving commences. While inspecting semi-finished goods and batches during work-in-process, records need be kept on defects found for discussion and communication with the manufacturer/GIS production representatives.
The number of defects found during a cutting, measurement or visual inspection should be noted on the various In-Process reports. It is not the purpose of the In-Process inspection to try and measure percent defective, but to identify potential problems. These In-Process reports will be the basis for data collection and evaluation.
In-Process Inspection Forms
At relevant stages of the In-Process Inspection use the following forms:
• In-Process Inspection Report
• In-Process Audit Worksheet
• In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional)
An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note these forms must be
used as is during the In-Process Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane
Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Cutting Inspection Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process cutting inspection:
• Verify and record fabric test reports.
• After cutting, perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut pieces), inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report (use the Fabric/Cutting Checklist and defective portion).
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process inspection:
• All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production approved standards, and must reflect correct country of origin and fiber/component content. Review and record all required Gap, Inc. fabric/component/product test reports.
• Verify needle control and safety procedures are being followed.
• Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production schedules can be met.
• Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at least six pieces of each operator’s semi-finished goods to check for workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriate In-process inspection report.
• Check hand/color against approved standards. If standards are not available, send the merchandiser/production representative examples of fabric colors and range of shades.
• Measure placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet.
• Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.
• Check that all small parts are securely attached.
• Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process Visual Inspection Worksheet
• Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.
• If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for corrective action.
• If questions regarding construction, measurements, fabric standard, color, etc. arise, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for answers.
• All measurement points listed in the measurement box of the specification sheet are to be measured on at least one product of each size and color during the In-Process inspection (i.e. on unwashed or rigid garment). This is to be done using pattern yield measurements, which are to be provided by the Vendor. Any discrepancies are to be noted on the In-Process Visual Inspection Report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and merchandiser/production representative.
In-Process Inspection Procedures (con’t)
• Record the locations of all operations such as knitting, linking and finishing. Also, record the appraisal of the factory’s capacities. The first In-Process inspection must begin at the knitting stage with photographs taken of every style during work in progress. Knitting panel inspection must be conducted at the intervals listed below depending on the size of a program:
a) Up to 5,000 pieces. At least one in-Process audit must be conducted when
the knitting of 20% of the panels completed.
b) 5,001 to 10,000 pieces. At least two In-Process audits must be conducted when
the knitting of 20% and 50% completed.
c) Above 10,000 pieces. At least three In-Process audits must be conducted when
the knitting of 20%, 50%, and 80% completed.
• When products are transferred from one location to another, a visual and measurement inspection report must be performed using the same criteria as the shipment Inspection procedures. Any discrepancies are to be noted on the Visual and Measurements Inspection report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and
IV. Shipment Inspection
Purpose
The purpose of a shipment inspection is to determine the quality of an order by its visual appearance, measurement to specifications and packing execution. The shipment inspection is performed before the finished product is shipped. This is done in order to minimize the arrival of defective product to Gap Inc. distribution centers, stores or other designated locations.
Shipment Inspection Forms
At relevant stages of the Shipment Inspection use the following forms.
• Visual Inspection Report
• Box Audit Worksheet (optional)
• Finished Product Measurement Sheet
• Finished Product Measurement Sheet - Tops (optional)
• Finished Product Measurement Sheet – Bottoms (optional)
An example of each form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note, these forms must be
used as is during the Shipment Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact
Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Shipment Inspection Methods
When auditing garments for measurements and visuals, there are two methods that may be used in relation to the timing of the audit. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap designated personnel performing the audit. However, the most proactive and preferred method is the non-destructive procedure.
Option 1: During the packing process, this type of audit combines Measurements, Visual, Packaging,
and Packing.
Option 2: A non-destructive audit may be performed for measurements, visuals, and packaging before the
garments are boxed. Packing audits must be performed during the boxing/packing process to verify labels, assortments, and counts.
Measurement Audit
Measurement Audit Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit:
• Measurements should be taken on products after wash, after press and sometimes before packing. Major measurement defects are to be judged using an A.Q.L. of 6.5. Only critical measurement points highlighted on the specification sheet (*) are taken at the time of the shipment audit. A product with more than one major measurement defect is counted as a major defect.
• Select samples at random.
• Measure products at critical measurement points which are noted with a (*) on the approved specification sheet.
• Record all measurements taken on the Finished Product Measurement Form.
• Determine the results based on the A.Q.L. 6.5 pass/fail levels for major defects, and the percent defective for minor defects (Reference Measurement Audit Sampling Plan).
• Put a CIRCLE around minor defects (i.e. measurements which are out of tolerance but do not exceed grade).
Waist measurements on woven bottoms, which are out of tolerance, are to be counted as major defects. Please check the waist and inseam requirements on the specification sheet for what constitutes a major defect on every style, as this can vary between styles and fabrics. • Put a TRIANGLE around major defects (i.e. measurements that are out of tolerance and exceed the grade). If a
measurement point has no grade or if the grade is less than the stated tolerance or measurements that exceed the tolerance than it will be considered major defects.
• If the total number of circled measurements is less than or equal to the number of minor defects allowed, and if the total number of triangle measurements is less than or equal to the number of major defects allowed, the measurement audit passes. Both minor and major measurements must be in the allowed range to pass the measurement audit.
• If the total number of circled measurements is more than the number of minor defects allowed, the audit fails.
“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures (con’t)
• Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+)side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points those not in capital letters -are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
• The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1.
• If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.
Measurement Audit Sampling Plan
Determine the number of garments to sample, according to the following sampling plan chart:
Measurements
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 6.5 A.Q.L.
Major 6.5
Lot Size –Mixed Color Sample Size
Pass Fail 1 Color 20 3 4 2 Colors 32 5 6 3 Colors 50 7 8 4 Colors 80 10 11 5 Colors 80 10 11
More than (5) Colors 125 14 15
Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects
• For woven and knit items, 10% of measurement points pass if found to be out of tolerance,
but not exceeding the grade (e.g. If there are 9 measurement points on a pant and 32 garments to be measured, there would be a total of 288 measurement points. That shipment will then pass, if there are not more than 29 minor defect measurement points (10%) out of the 288 taken out of tolerance).
• For sweater items, 15% of the measurement points will pass if out of tolerance, but not exceeding grade. Apply the same formula found above.
Visual Audit
Visual Audit Methods
There are two methods for auditing visuals. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap Inc. designated personnel performing the audit:
Option 1: Non-Destructive Visual Audit (audit performed before garments boxed). Option 2: Visual Auditing begins after boxing/packing process has started.
Visual Audit Forms and Reference Sheets
At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, use the following forms:
• Visual Inspection Report
• Visual Inspection Worksheet (tool to be used for non-destructive audits that occur over an extended period of time)
At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, reference the Classification of Visual Defects Sheets (Chapter X, Appendix II). An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. An example of each reference sheet can found in Chapter XI, Appendix II, of this manual. Please note these forms and sheets must be used as is during the Visual Audit. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Visual Audit Sampling Plans
The sampling plans used for both audits are as follows:
Gap, GapKids, babyGap, Old Navy Adults/Kids/Baby and Outlet
First Quality Production
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Shipment Size Lot
Garment Visuals Ticket Check
(OCR) Sample Size Critical 0.1 Pass/Fail Major 4.0 Pass/Fail Minor 6.5 Pass/Fail Major .25 Pass/Fail 0-500 20 0/1 2/3
3/4
0/1Visual Audit Sampling Plans (con’t)
Banana Republic and Japan Orders
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Shipment Size Lot
Garment Visuals Ticket Check
(OCR) Sample Size Critical 0.1 Pass/Fail Major 2.5 Pass/Fail Minor 6.5 Pass/Fail Major .25 Pass/Fail 0-500 20 0/1 1/2
3/4
0/1 501-1,200 32 0/1 2/3 5/6 0/1 1,201-3,200 50 0/1 3/4 7/8 0/1 3,201-10,000 80 0/1 5/6 10/11 0/1 10,001-35,000 125 0/1 7/8 14/15 1/2 35,001-UP 200 0/1 10/11 21/22 1/2Visual Audit Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing a visual audit:
• Since this type audit may take place over an extended period of time (e.g. more than one day), the non-destructive visual process is selected and the Visual Inspection Worksheet may be used.
• When the visual audit is performed over more than one day, the results recorded on the Visual Inspection Worksheet must be reviewed and signed by factory management. The information on this worksheet must be transferred and attached to the Visual Inspection Report.
• When this visual audit procedure is employed, the Gap representative must insure immediate corrective action is taken to correct any defects found. This will insure other garments in this audit will not contain the
following defects:
a) Critical visual defects are based on an A.Q.L. of 0.1 for all divisions.
Critical visual defects are defined as defects that may cause bodily injury to the wearer. One critical defect found during the shipment audit would cause the audit to fail. All the goods in a fail audit must be re-inspected 100% by factory to remove all critical defective items prior to been audited again by Gap field auditor or its appointed agent.
b) OCR/Ticket/Label Check is based on a 0.25 AQL.
c) Major visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 4.0 for Gap Divisions and Old Navy, 2.5 for Banana Republic and product being sold in Japan.
d) Minor visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 6.5 for all divisions. e) Pass/fail numbers for minor/major defects are to be counted separately.
Visual Audit Procedures (con’t)
f) Any trim that contains an OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the Visual auditing process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Visual Inspection Report. When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform an additional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction. This audit will consist of a sample size of 315 pieces. This audit will pass on two (2) incorrect OCR trims and fail on three (3). The AQL for the OCR trims/label/ticket audit is 0.25. If this additional audit passes, the entire audit may be passed. However, if this second (additional) audit fails, the factory must re-inspect 100% of the shipment for incorrect OCR trims. OCR trims are normally price tickets on knits and woven shirts and matchbooks on woven etc. bottoms. The OCR is the line that is scanned in the stores that indicates the price and style. This information is vital to insure that the replenishment of inventory in our Distribution Centers and stores is accurate.
g) While performing the visual audit any defects as follows will be counted as a major defect in the visual audit:
1) Incorrect size strip (31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants) 2) Incorrect flasher
3) Incorrect (wrong size) of logo label
4) Incorrect non-OCR (BARCODED) price ticket
(These items must correspond to the Bill of Materials (BOM) on the GSS as to item number and size)
5) Above items are coordinated by size and style
h) The lot size is the total number of units to the shipment. The selection of a random sample must be conducted according to ratio based on quantity, number of sizes, and various colors in a program.
i) Sample size will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.
j) More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect. k) If consistent minor defects occur which affect the overall appearance of the product, the
shipment audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the merchandise/production representative.
l) Samples are to be taken randomly and must include all sizes.
Visual Audit Procedures (con’t)
• If the audit fails, record when the re-audit is to take place in the comment column. If re-audit takes place at that time, use the same procedures as new audit, including packing.
• If shade variations occur within a shipment, the merchandiser/production representative is to be notified and samples sent to merchandiser/production representative for approval.
• If the merchandiser/production representative requests that the shades be separated the carton shade marks should be checked during shipment.
• During the shipment audit, packaging and labeling should be checked closely to insure conformance to standards including proper Country of Origin and fiber content markings.
• When multiple Purchase Orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit performed on a sample taken from this combination. If the audit fails, all Purchase Orders fail; if it passes all Purchase Orders pass.
• It is mandatory to check the weight of each size for the following garments at shipment audit. Sweaters and fine knit for babyGap (for quota purposes).
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits
Gap / Old Navy Procedures
Sweaters
Three pieces of the median size (the average of the smallest to the largest in the range) are weighed. The results are added together, and then divided by three (3). This will determine the average weight per sweater.
babyGap Fine Knits
Three pieces of every size are weighed and the individual readings are recorded. The results are forwarded to babyGap merchants to determine quota issues. It is not necessary for QA to comment on whether the weight meets the required tolerance.
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits (con’t)
Banana Republic Procedures
Sweaters
Sweaters of every size in a program must be weighed individually and calculated for average weight based on the required size ratio in a placement memorandum according to the below listed procedures:
a) Assuming that the required size ratio is 1:2:2:1 (XS/S/M/L).
b) Randomly select four sweaters of every size; weigh them individually and record the results for the interim audit report.
c) Calculate the average weight of each sweater size by adding the four (4) readings together and dividing by four (4).
d) Based on the size ratio 1:2:2:1, the average overall weight of a sweater is calculated in the following manner:
(avg. wt. of sizes “xs” x sz ratio 1) + (avg. wt. of size “s” x sz ratio 2) + (avg. wt. of size “m” x sz ratio) + (avg. wt. of size “l” x ratio 1) /four (4) = overall weight of sweater.
Gap Asia Pacific Procedures
Shipment audit will not be carried out on new store orders or shipment quantities of up to 1,000 units or less by color. Instead it is the responsibility of the Vendor to perform the necessary audit, and insure that the shipped merchandise meets Gap’s quality standards. QA will issue an “OK to Ship” report using a shipment report form printed with a
“Shippers’ Declaration”.
Seconds & Overruns
Vendors must be reminded that all seconds or overruns sold to anyone other than Gap Inc., must have all Gap Inc. logos, labels, or other identification removed in accordance to the guidelines outlined in the Vendor Handbook. After all are removed, then an audit must be scheduled to verify that the removal has been executed correctly.
Pack Audit
Terms to know during the pack audit: “FA” means Factory Audit and “AA” means Audit Assessment. These terms must be used to differentiate similar terms used in the Distribution Centers.
Pack Audits Procedures
The factory is responsible for the pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a pack audit:
• The pack audit must be performed as a separate audit.
• The pack audit is the responsibility of the facility/vendor.
• Before beginning this assessment, QA personnel must ask the factory/vendor representative
for the results of their audit. When performing this assessment, the Gap Inc. auditor must place a “AA” on each box in the assessment. This will be placed in the same area as the “FA”. Otherwise, place this in
the upper right hand of the box information label in a 1”x1” space. This “AA” is not to be covered by tape or labels because it will be used by Distribution Center QA during their pack assessment.
• Gap Inc. QA or those designated by Gap Inc. to perform shipment audits, will be responsible for a 10% assessment of this factory/vendor audit.
Major Defects for Pack Audits
a) Incorrect quantity b) Carton labeling errors c) Incorrect Pre-Pack
• Assortments
• Amounts
• Pre-Pack Stickers
d) Carton not as specified (size and construction) e) Crushed or damaged cartons
f) Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons
• When performing the pack audit, the vendor must place an “FA” on each box audited. This “FA” must be placed in a one inch by one inch space (1x1) at the top right hand corner of the box information label (the label containing Purchase Order, style, quantity, etc.). This “FA” must not be covered with tape or other labels. because it will be used as a guide by Gap Inc. field personnel and Gap Inc. Distribution Centers to verify audits and assess these cartons.
Pack Audit Procedures (con’t)
• Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan. If the Factory Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take appropriate action to correct the problems found. Discuss the results with factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan to correct the issues found in the audit. A re-audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packing errors were corrected. A re-audit will be performed and recorded on a separate Visual Inspection Report. Attach this re-audit to the original Visual Inspection Report.
• Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the Visual Inspection Report. Record the results of the Audit Assessment (AA) and the results of the Factory Audit (FA).
• If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser/production representative for corrective action.
• The assessment will be performed on 10% of the number of boxes that are audited by the factory/vendor. Example: if there are 1005 boxes in the shipment, the factory/vendor will audit 80 boxes. Gap Inc. personnel would then perform an 8 box assessment (10% of 80 boxes). Again there is a zero tolerance in this assessment. Any defects will require more action to be taken (i.e. complete audit, re-inspect by factory, etc.) The
assessment may or may not be taken for the same exact boxes on the Factory (FA) Audit. The best practice would be to pull the sample from both populations (boxes not in FA and boxes in FA).
Pack Audits Sampling Plan
The pack audit sampling plan for the factory/vendor is as follows:
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (2) .65 AQL
Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan
# of cartons Sample Size Pass Fail
5-15 3 0 1 15-50 8 0 1 51-150 20 0 1 151-500 50 1 2 501-1,200 80 1 2 1,201-UP 125 2 3
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs
Each vendor who participates in Gap, Inc.’s full carton pack program should establish a packing audit system.
Prototype Pack
For each Full Carton/CD Flow Pack purchase order, the Vendor is required to have in their packing department a prototype packed carton for training. This prototype is to be approved by Gap QA.
Sample Size
The Vendor should determine what quantity of cartons can be packed, and held, before closing the cartons. This carton quantity becomes the population from which the sample is drawn. The way a sampling plan works is the larger the population the smaller the sample size is as a percent of the population. To optimize the inspection time, the maximum quantity of cartons packed and labeled but not closed is desired. Once that number is determined, the Vendor should choose the sampling size from the pack audit’s sampling plan (0.65 AQL).
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Auditing Procedures
The factory is responsible for the full carton pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a full carton pack audit:
• It is important for the Vendor to keep the population size at a level that takes into consideration the staging area available as well as the factory’s accuracy history. If an audit does not take place until the population is large, a great deal of extra handling will take place if it fails. We recommend that in the beginning, a Vendor that is new to full carton pre-packs choose a small population to audit until history can be developed and expertise learned.
• A same criterion for major packing errors is to be used as a normal shipment audit; use the same criterion as listed under Pack Audits. (FA and AA procedures).
• Gap Inc. will perform an assessment after the audit is completed by the factory/vendor.
• Should Vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of the Vendor to pay for any special handling required later, in order to correct those errors at Gap Inc.’s Distribution Centers.
Japanese Purchase Orders Auditing Procedures
All Japanese purchase order shipments are required to be audited against an A.Q.L. level of 2.5 majors and 6.5 minors for final shipment audits.
All goods shipped against Japanese purchase orders are required to go through a second 100% inspection by
the factory after trimming and before packing. This is for the company’s benefit only (not to be considered acceptance of any goods) and is performed to ensure that the following points are confirmed before shipping:
• Loose threads are properly trimmed and loose buttons attached properly.
• Needle control/metal detector procedures followed.
• No sharp metal points.
• Paper care/content label in Japanese is in the garment and properly placed.
• Leg sticker/matchbook and any trim items are correctly coordinated to size label.
• Price ticket in Yen attached to garment with correct retail price.
• No dirt spots or stains.
Outlet Division Standards
Outlet Audit Forms
At the relevant stage of an Outlet Audit, use the following form:
• Visual Inspection Report
• Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report
An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Outlet Division Auditing Types
All rejected products must first be offered to the Outlet Division. There are three types of audits for Outlet:
Type 1: First quality product sold to or produced for Outlet with Outlet labels. Apply same
methods for audit as any Gap Inc. division. This audit will be recorded on the Visual Inspection Report.
Type 2: First quality product sold or produced for Outlet with Banana Republic labels and
crossed through with a gold pen. Use the most current Banana Republic A.Q.L. for inspection. For Gap, GapKids, and babyGap main labels crossed through with gold pen, use the
most current A.Q.L. used by each department for the inspection. This audit will be recorded on the Visual Inspection Report.
Type 3: Product rejected by merchandising or production and purchased by Outlet. This may
be a complete program or rejected units within a program. This audit is performed to assure product purchased meets Outlet standards. (i.e. does not contain packing errors or any product considered as a third). This audit will be recorded on the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.
Outlet Division Auditing Procedures
• Packing audits are to be conducted using Level (2) .65 AQL (see Pack Audit, page:).
• Merchandise not gold lined through the labels, as described in the Vendor Handbook, are considered majors.
• Thirds are defined as merchandise that is not wearable or would cause embarrassment to the wearer.
• Complete and submit to Outlet, the Visual Inspection Report and/or the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.
Seconds & Overruns
For Outlet internal purposes, we define seconds garments as those that are wearable with unnoticeable flaws.
These defects should not be conspicuous to the average customer.
The Outlet Classification Guide provided below references two types of merchandise: “seconds” and “thirds.” Outlet is generally interested in first quality or seconds. This defect Guide applies only to Outlet, and does not alter or change in any way the Company’s quality standards or any Company requirements in the Vendor Handbook.
This in only a reference tool. All seconds, overruns, unused goods or rejected goods of any kind must still be
offered to Outlet regardless of the QA Classification guide below. If you have questions, please contact Outlet. Note: Outlet will not except any product that has a critical defect; also, vendor must forward to Outlet 3 samples: 2 that reflect the majority of the flaws and 1 that represents the worst case scenario (please indicate accordingly).
Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet
ANZI/ASQC Z!.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 1.5 AQL
Size of Shipment Sample Size Thirds
Pass Fail 0-500 20 1 2 501-1,200 32 1 2 1,201-3,200 50 2 3 3,201-10,000 80 3 4 10,001-35,000 125 5 6
Outlet Defect Classification Guide
DEFECTS CLASS OF GARMENT
SECONDS THIRDS/ NOT
ACCEPTABLE
1. Garments not to color standard X
2. Shading - garment to garment X
3. Slight shading within garments X
4. Measurements out of tolerance(Excluding CPSC requirements on children’s sleepwear)
X
5. Twisting or torquing up to 50% greater than 1st quality standard
X
6. Light fastness greater than 1.5, less than 3.5 X
7. Abrasion greater than standard X on approval
8. Underweight garments X on approval
9. Incorrect "hand" to standard X
10. Noticeable fabric flaws X on approval
11. Sewing flaws resulting in puckering, broken stitches, needle cuts, needle chews and needle holes
X
12. Stained or soiled garments that are not cleanable X
13. Repairs of sewing and finishing defects X
X.
Safety Procedures
It is mandatory that all raw materials, trim components, and actual production garments be evaluated by a
Gap, Inc. approved testing laboratory. For specific information regarding Gapkids and babyGap, refer to Gap Inc.’s Product Safety Standards and Procedures Manual for Infants and Children.
The following are QA procedures when performing a Safety audit:
• Check factory Needle Control Procedure Log; sign and date log. Ask factory management and operators to explain needle control procedures. Make sure log is filled out properly and is up to date. Take a photocopy of the latest entry page; attach to your report.
• Check needle detector if factory has one. Check date of machine’s last service and calibration. Test machine and it’s sensitivity adjustment. Perform test with 1.2mm sphere test card. Review occurrence log for needles that have been detected.
• Check for lock-stitch button machines. If there are none, report to merchant as soon as possible. Advise operable factory that lock-stitch button machines are required. If they have lock-stitch, verify they have enough machines to handle production requirements, using the Pull Test.
• Check snap equipment and parts to make sure they are on the approved list of suppliers. Make sure pneumatic and electric press equipment is made by an approved snap vendor. Make sure dies match snaps and that prongs on snaps are long enough to properly mate and secure the snap, using the Pull Test. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.
• Hand/foot press or flywheel equipment is not allowed. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.
VI. Broken Needle Standards
Broken Needle Forms
At relevant stages of the Broken Needle Inspection, use the following form.
• Broken Needle Log
An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note that this form must be used during the Broken Needle Inspection. If need be, additional columns can be added to the forms for documenting information, but existing columns/formatting can not be removed from this form. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Broken Needle Procedures
The following are Needle procedures for vendors when manufacturing garment:
• Operators should not possess any spare needles.
• Replacement needles should be stored in a locked closet.
• Worn needles should be disposed of in a sealed container.
• When needles break, every effort must be made to locate all fragments.
• If all fragments cannot be found, component or garment must be destroyed.
• Breakage must be recorded in the broken needle log.
• Broken or used needles should not be around machines or on factory floor.
• Pins, staples, wire or metal clips should not be used in the bundling, sewing or laundry process.
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures
This is a clearly defined method to verify that factories are following needle control procedures. All QA representatives who conduct in-factory audits on Gap Inc.’s behalf such as Gap Inc.’s sourcing channels/agents/QA staff are responsible for this task.
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures (con’t)
• Search the floor for used or broken needle parts. Pick up and save any you find to discuss withfactory management.
• Check around a few operators’ machines for spare or broken needles. Lift the machine head to see if used or broken needles are present in the oil pan. Collect and save needles to discuss with factory management.
• Check the broken needle log for accuracy. Sign and date the log if it is in order. Make sure all broken parts have been found and are taped to the log for each entry. If only part of the broken needle is attached to log, further investigation is required.
• Vendors who have needle detection equipment must verify the calibration and accuracy o the machine once per hour. This can be done with a 1.2mm check card. A log should be kept to record any broken needles or other metal products found.
• OSHA requires that contaminated needles, those that may or may not be broken but have punctured human skin, must be disposed of in a blood borne pathogen container.
VII.
Country of Origin
VIII.
Carton/Prepack
For carton sizes, specifications, labelling and pre-pack definitions refer
to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook
IX.
Appendix I (General Forms)
Summary of Quality Assurance general forms used during
various inspection points, as explained in this manual:
In-Process Inspection Report Visual Inspection Worksheet In-Process Audit Worksheet
In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report Visual Inspection Report
Finished Product Measurement Sheet Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops) Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) Outlet Inspection Report
Broken Needle Log Box Audit Worksheet
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING (________________OFFICE
IN-PROCESS INSPECTION REPORT RANDOM/UNANNOUNCED
IN LINE (SCHEDUALED) STYLE NO.______________________ CONTRACT SHIPMENT DATE_______________INSPECTION DATE:_________ P.O. NO. ______________________ ANTICIPATED SHIPMENT DATE_____________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____ ______________________ ORDER QUANTITY_____________________ VENDOR:__________________ DEPT.:_________________________ COLOR:______________________________ FACTORY:_________________ FABRIC TEST # __________________ FACTORY CODE____________ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:________________________________________ AUDITOR:__________________
PLANNED PRODUCTION ARRANGEMENT (COMPLETE AT "IN-LINE ONE" ONLY EXCEPT FOR CHANGES TO PLAN
FACTORY COUNTRY LOCATIO
YES NO YES NO YES NO YES NO YES NO
MANFACTORING PROCESS CONFERRING COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
ACTUAL PRODUCTION STATUS: FABRIC(EG. BLANKETS KTS. PANEL ASSEMBLY
FABRIC CUTTING SEWING FINISHING
SHADING THREAD WASHING IRONING/SHAPE STRIPE MATCH SEAM CLR FASTNES OTHERS
CUTTING REPORTS STITCH CLEANING
PATTERN SHAPES/SYMMETR PRESSING MARKER BUTTON HOLES FOLDING PLY MATCHING POCKETING TICKETING
LABEL POSITION HANGTAGS
OTHER HEMMING POLYBAG BARTACKING CARTON LINING MARKINGS SPECS PACKING
A = ACCEPTABLE U = UNACCEPTABLE N/A = NOT APPLICABLE
I CONFIRM ACCURACY OF ALL INFORMATION ABOVE CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY VENDOR / FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE AND AGREE TO MAKE CORRECTIONS AS PER ABOVE __________________________ _____________________________
COMMENTS IMMEDIATELY SIGNATURE DATE
__________________________ _____________________________ AUDITOR INITIALS / DATE Q.A. MANAGER INITIALS / DATE
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN FINISHING SAME AS IN-LINE ONE FABRIC/KNIT PANEL CUTTING MINOR SEWING CUTTING/KNITTING MINOR SEWING
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN
STATUS SAFETY CHECK NEEDLE CONTRO FINISHING PACKING LINKING/LOOPING/ MENDING SNAP TEST LOCKSTITCH BUT PULL TESTING NECK STRETRCH GA NEEDLE DETECT SNAP MACHINE OTHER SEAM/ LK/ LP KNITTING MEND BTN/ HOLES BARTAKING Appendix I
Visual Inspection Worksheet
Majors
Ship Quantity
Sample Size
Minors
*OCR Ticket Check Based on .25 AQL
Total Inspected Qty. Inspected Qty. Inspected Qty. Inspected Qty. Inspected Date Date Date Date OCR OCR OCR OCR Critical Major Minor Check Critical Major Minor Check Critical Major Minor Check Critical Major Minor Che ck OCR Total Defects Pass/Fail Critical Majors Minors AI-3
IN PROCESS AUDIT WORKSHEET MFG. PLANT_______________ DIVISION________________ _ DATE ___________________ STYLE ___________________ PATTERN _______________ _ AUDITOR _________________ Gauge S.P.I. Measure Thread/ Tension Margin No. operator Units No. Defects Comments LINE SUPERVISOR________________________ PLANT MANAGER______________ AI-4
_ VENDOR: ________________ _ _ SUBCONTRACTOR: ________________ _ _ WEEK OF: ________________ _ Vertical Tol. Actual Horizontal Tol. Actual Vertical Placement: ________ _ Horizontal Placement: _________ Color Placement Placement
Total Units Defective
Name
Problems Found/ Corrective Action
Total Units Inspected
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING
( OFFICE)VISUAL INSPECTION REPORT SHIPMENT
REAUDIT
VENDOR__________________ ORDER QTY.__________________INSPECTION DATE_________ DIVISION_________________ VENDOR STYLE#______________ AUDITOR_________________ CONT. SHIP DATE__________ FIRST COSTS$________________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____
COLOR___________________ FACTORY_________________
DESCRIPTION_____________________________________________ FACTORY CODE___________
DC P.O. # SHIP QTY DC P.O. # GAP STYLE# SHIP QTY
______________________ ________________________
______________________ _______________________
Merchandising Team Comments: ________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________
AUDIT PASSED AUDIT FAILED
INSP. QTY. _________________________________________
DEFECTIVE QTY: CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR ACCEPT QTY: CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR OCR TICKET/LABEL CHECK PASS FAIL
SUMMARY: ______________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ COMMENTS: _____________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________
CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY:
(FACTORY REP) Q.A. MANAGER (DATE)
MERCHANDISER (DATE) MERCHANDISING MG (DATE)
AUDITOR (DATE)
GAP STYLE#
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING
NO. CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR
CTN. Ship CTN. INSP.Defective QTY
Packing Defects ___________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________
TEST REPORT# WT. PER DOZ. ACTUAL
PULL TEST# _________ GARMENT TEST# _________ FABRIC TEST# _________
THE ABOVE AUDIT IS A RANDOM REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLING OF THE WHOLE LOT ONLY. SPEC.
VISUAL DEFECT
PACK ACCURACY CHECK
DATE:
VENDOR
Q.A. SIGNATURE
PM / PO#
CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY:
INTERIM SHIPMENT VENDOR STYLE # 1ST. SAMPLE SIZE GAP STYLE # ( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE ) 2ND SAMPLE SIZE COLOR: TOL SPEC SPEC SPEC SPEC MINOR MAJOR PAGE
MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC:
X = X .10 % = TOTAL PREV AUDIT PASSED PAS S < FAIL > ACTUAL MINORS PG. TOTAL MINOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MINORS % TOT 2ND AUDIT FAILED AUDIT PAS S < FAIL > ACTUAL MAJORS GRAND 2ND SAMPLE AUDIT MAJOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MAJORS % TOTAL AI-8
VENDOR
Q.A. SIGNATURE
PM / PO#
CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY:
VENDOR STYLE # GAP STYLE #
( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE ) COLOR: SPEC SPEC SPEC MINOR MAJOR = X .10 % = TOTAL PREV FAIL > ACTUAL MINORS PG. TOTAL AUDIT = PERCENT MINORS % TOT 2ND AUDIT FAIL > ACTUAL MAJORS GRAND AUDIT = PERCENT MAJORS % TOTAL AI-9
DATE:
VENDOR
Q.A. SIGNATURE
PM / PO#
CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY:
INTERIM SHIPMENT VENDOR STYLE # 1ST. SAMPLE SIZE GAP STYLE # ( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE ) 2ND SAMPLE SIZE COLOR: TOL SPEC SPEC SPEC SPEC MINOR MAJOR PAGE
MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC:
X = X .10 % = TOTAL PREV AUDIT PASSED PAS S < FAIL > ACTUAL MINORS PG. TOTAL MINOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MINORS % TOT 2ND AUDIT FAILED AUDIT PAS S < FAIL > ACTUAL MAJORS GRAND 2ND SAMPLE AUDIT MAJOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MAJORS % TOTAL AI-10
GAP INC.
Outlet Factory Outlet
INSPECTION REPORT SHIPMENT
DATE
GFO STYLE# VENDOR/MAKER: ADDRESS:
PREPACK# QTY ORDERED: DEPT:
PO# QTY TO BE SHIPPED: AUDITOR:
GFO RETAIL PRICE ON TICKET: UNITS PER CARTON: COLOR: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: TOTAL CARTONS: DESCRIPTION:
No.
TOTALS
ACCEPT REJECT
AUDIT PASSED AUDIT FAILED %
INSPECTED QTY. 1. All garments lined through with gold marker. DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % 2. All garments are to be ticketed correctly.
3. Fit / Size strips placed on all denim and twill pants INSPECTED QTY. 4. Prepack definitions are correct.
DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % 5. Correct number of units are packed per carton. 6. Verify all carton label information is correct. INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % Packing Defectives
Type of Defect Qty. Found DEFECTIVE % THIRDS %
SUMMARY:
COMMENTS: Sample Size:
Audit Passed: Audit Failed: Thirds Cumulative Sample 2nd sample 1st sample
Verify the following informtion and check block to the right.
Defectives
BROKEN NEEDLE LOG FACTORY: _________________________ COUNTRY: __________________________ CONTACT: _____________________ GAP DATE /TIME OPERATOR MACHINE # PRODUCT GAP INC. SUPERVISOR
TAPED NEEDLE PARTS
AUDITOR DATE OF BREAK NAME STYLE DIVISION CHECK CHECKED AI-12
GAP BOX AUDIT WORKSHEET
DATE: QA SIGNATURE PM/PO# CONFIRMED AND VENDOR: SIGNED BY:MAKER: GAP STYLE#
DESCRIPTION: (FACTORY REPRESENTATION) COLOR: 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
Pack Size Ratio
UNITS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
PASS / FAIL QTY. _______________ TOTAL MAJORS FOUND _______________
5. Carton not as specified
7. Use of wire or metal
6. Crushed or damaged cartons
strapping to strap cartons
X.
Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)
The following details by product type major, minor and critical defects.
Note: Critical defects are listed within product type classification. Critical defects are anything which can harm the user of the product. The following are some examples of critical defects but are not limited to this list:
1) Loose components, i.e. buttons, snaps, stones or other miscellaneous parts; 2) Sharp edges, i.e. broken needles, staples, snaps, rivets, wire and pins; 3) Drawstrings at head or neck for baby or kids products; and
4) Threads or trim which are excessively long or loose which could present a choking hazard to a baby or child if they become entangled.
Any critical defect found during an audit fails that audit and requires the factory to re-inspect 100% of the product. Once all critical defects are removed, the order must be audited by a Gap Inc. auditor or their designated representative.
Defects Woven and Knit Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 16.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Plaid Match Over 1/16" Major
-3.Shaded Parts Major Major 17.Uneven Collar Points
4.Obvious Foreign or Color Over 1/8" Major
Yarn Major Major 18.Collar Overlap When
5.Not Obvious Foreign or Buttoned Major
Color Yarn Major Minor 19.Incorrrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
6.Poor Matching of Color or 20.Buttonholes Nonreplaceable,
Print Patterns Major Major Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
7.Texture Change Major Major 21.Incorrect Button Major Major
8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified Major Major 22.Missing Button Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 23.Button Offline on Top Center
1/8" Tolerance Major
-B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 24.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 4-Hole or Upside Down Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4" 25.Sewn in Pleats Major Major
Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear Major Major 26.Uneven Pleating Shirring
2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major or Poor Sewn Pleat Major Major
3.Holes of any Size Repaired 27.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
or Not, Needle Cut, Tear Major Major up to 1/8" Major Minor
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs Up Over 1/8" Major Major
to Size of Loop Major Minor 29.Improper Interlining,
Exces-6.Improper Repair Major Minor sive Fullness of Parts Major Major
7.Any Pattern Errors Major Major 30.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted Major Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 31.Needle Chews up to 1
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Per Inch Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 32.Incorrect Thread or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 33.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Any Stitch Type Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 34.Uneven Hip Pocket Placement
5.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/8" Major
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 35.Lips or Crease on Front Pkt Major
-6.Stitching Margin Variation 36.Exposed White Pocket Bag
Over 1/8" Major Major up to 1/8" Major
-7.Any Exposed Stitch or Under 37.Malfunctioning, Wavy or
Part Major Major Incorrect Zipper Major Major
-Classification of Visual Defects Woven and Knit
Dresses/Jumpsuits Coats/Jackets
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
46.Slanting Belt Loops More 1.Attached Sewing Threads
Than 1/8" Out of Vertical up to 1/4" Major Minor
or Missing Major - 2.Attached Sewing Threads
47.Uneven Hem Over 1/8" Each Over 1/4" Major Major
Side - Major 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
48.Severe Puckering and Badly Inside of Garment Major Minor
Roped Hem Major Major 4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major
49.Incorrect Bartack Placement 5.Stain,Soil Under1/8" Major Minor
or Missing Bartack Major Major 6.Stain,Soil Over 1/8" Major Minor
50.Misplaced Buttonhole or 7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major Major Rubbed Spots Major Major
51.Misplaced Button Over 1/8" 8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
or Missing Button Major Major Visible Major Major
52.Misplaced Rivet Over 1/8" 9.Component Parts Not
or Missing Rivet Major Major Securely Tacked Major Major
53.Crows Feet Major - 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
54. Sharp Points/ Edges on Garments Major Major
Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical 11.Pile Direction Not as
Specified Major Major
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) 12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Ticket Placement Major Major
1.Permanent Crease Major Major 13.Attached Sewing Threads at
2.Poorly Pressed Major Minor Collar Area Over 1/8" Major
-3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, 14.Improper Tidy or Fraying
Pressure Marks Major Major of Band Finish Major
-15.Incorrect Folding Major Major
16.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
17. Loose Components Critical Critical ***babyGap / GapKids***
18. Stones in Garments Critical Critical ***babyGap / GapKids***
19. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven & Knits
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven & Knits
Classification of Visual Defects KnitTops
and Activewear
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 18.Collar Overlap
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major 19.Uneven Hip Pkt Placement
3.Shaded Parts Major Major Over 1/8" Major
-4.Obvious Foreign or Color 20.Lips or Creases on Pocket Major
Yarn Major Major 21.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major
-5.Not Obvious Foreign or 22.Not Mitred Inner Fly Major
Color Yarn Major Minor 23.Zippers, Incorrect Size/Color
6.Poor Matching of Color or Malfunctioning, Improper Set Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 24.Uneven Yoke Seam Under 1/8" Minor
-7.Texture Change Major Major 25.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major
-8.Shading Between Garments Major Major 26.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
Width of Topstitch Major Major
27.Uneven,Pleating, Shirring
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) or Poorly Sewn Seams Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 28.Pleats in Seam Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/8" Major Minor 29.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
2.Holes of Any Size Repaired up to 1/8" Major Major
or Not Major Major 30.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
3.Standards Wt/Dz Exceeds Tolerance Majors - Over 1/8" Major Major
4.Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken 31.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Stitch, End Down, Run Barr, Over 1/8" Major
Bent Needle, Needle Line Major Major 32. High/Low Waistband > 1/8" Major
-5.Dye Discoloration Streaks 33. Uneven Waistband > 1/8" Major
Blotches, Print Out of 34. Uneven Belt Loop Placement > 1/8" Major
Register Major Major 35. Beltloop Missing or Slanting Major
-6.Bow or Bias Fabric Over 1" > 1/8"
Side to Side Major Major 36. Uneven Hem > 1/2" Each Side Major
37.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major
C. Sewing (Defects by Zone) 38.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 39.Incorrect Button Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 40.Buttonholes Broken or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Unrepairable Threads Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 41.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole
Any Stitch Type Major Major or Hook And Eye Over 1/8" Major Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 42.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
5.Any Exposed Stitch or Under Holes or Upside Down Major Major
Part Major Major 43.Missing Button Major Major
6.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 44.Missing or Misplaced Rivet
7.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/8" Major Major
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 45.Severe Puckering and Badly
Classification of Visual Defects Knit Tops
and Activewear D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Poor Press Major Minor
2.Permanent Crease Major Major
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks Major Major
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Threads up to 1/4" Major Minor
2.Attached Threads Over 1/4" Major Major
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Garment Major Major
4.Sewn in Waste or Thread on
Outside Major Major
5.Stail,Soil Oil to 1/8" Major Major
6.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots Over 1/4" Major Major
7.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band Finish Major
-8.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
or Pencil Mark Major Major
9.Needle Chews or Feed-Dog
Abrasion Frays Major Major
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments Major Major
11.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major
12.Nap Up/Down, Shaded Parts Major Major
13.Pile Direction Not as
Specified Major Major
14.Insecure Setting of Part Major Major
15.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
16.Missing or Incorrect Labels Major
-17.Incorrect Folding Major Major
18.Asymetric Garment More
Than 1" Major Major
19.Uneven Elastification(Pant) Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
20. Loose Components Critical Critical ***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Stones in Garments Critical Critical ***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical Appendix II
