Croatian
introduction
or thousands of years bc the tribal communities centred round
Vuèedol used an extremely precise calendar which enabled them to engage effectively and successfully in agriculture.
On the island of Vis there are traces of grape vine which have been cultivated from pre-Christian times, right up to the present day.
The oldest coin to be found on the island of Hvar bears on the reverse side a depiction of a bunch of grapes, and on the obverse side the image of Homer – the poet who extolled their virtues in verse.
Officers of ancient Rome gladly became gourmands once they discovered the riches of the Cetina region bequeathed
to them by the gods: trout, river crabs, frogs, game and fertile land. Instead of the usual temporary camp they created a permanent settlement on the hills along the Cetina River.
A thousand years ago, top quality chefs, who were equally expert in Oriental and Western cuisines, were a key element of the crews aboard the ships of Dubrovnik which sailed the Mediterranean and the oceans. From Istria to Konavle, Croats have been safeguarding dozens of centuries-old olive trees which still bear fruit to this day. Roman emperors planted olive groves in Istria because they considered the area as being the best for cultivation of superior olives.
Also, recipes from the Viennese court were being prepared
f
Each croatian tourist rEGion is a sourcE of hiGh quality cuisinE, rEGardlEss of whEthEr thE offErEd dish is of polEnta madE from whitE maizE or a phEasant patE flavourEd with frEsh istrian trufflEs.introduction
by cooks attending to the gastronomic needs of the nobility and other wealthy households in northern Croatia.
Napoleon’s cooks introduced many of their culinary secrets to their Croatian counterparts, and they are still with us today – the mustard and bermet, i.e. vermouth, of Samobor being two of the most famous examples. It has to be pointed out, however, that those French cooks did not find any absence of culinary skills, indeed quite the contrary; in most cases the local population simply added a “French touch” to some of their existing recipes. For instance, mustard is mentioned in
Gazophylacium, the famous Latin-Croatian dictionary by Ivan
Belostenec, completed in 1674.
Italians have managed to convince a good part of the world that hundreds of their regional dishes deserve a place at the peak of world gastronomy. However, at the begin-ning of the last century they themselves claimed that the best Italian dishes are prepared in Dalmatia, where a great culinary tradition makes use of first-class ingredients.
In the course of its travels from Persia, via Turkey to Croatian lands, a journey which took thousands of kilometres and hundreds of years to complete, the recipe for æevap or kebab was being constantly improved until it reached absolute perfection. And all that together with many other great dishes and culinary procedures.
Hungarians who came to settle in Podravina, Meðimurje, Slavonia and Baranja are masters of dishes prepared in small cauldrons, delicacies which rep-resent the essence of the identity of Hungarian cuisine.
Today’s Croatia, a small Alpine,
Pannonian, Danube-basin and
Mediterranean country, grows all the same types of grape that are grown in the much larger France! Also, in small Croatia more varieties of the most highly valued truffles can be found than in that same France, including the white Tuber magnatum (pico), which is most sought after. For years now micologists have been trying to compile a definitive list of edible fungi that are autochthonous in Croatia, but the task is so extensive that they have yet to complete it. The Croatian Adriatic is not renowned for its great quantities of fish, crabs, shellfish and molluscs, but it is renowned for its rich variety of seafood. Indeed, it is claimed by many that some of that seafood, such as scampi and oysters from particular localities, are the best in the world. Those are subjective assessments; objective scien-tific findings have quite definitely shown that the concentra-tion of elements in the Marasca black/sour cherry, grown in the surroundings of Zadar, make it superior to any other type of black/sour cherry in the world - which is more than amply
proved by Maraschino, the famous liqueur of Zadar. The varieties of small Mediterranean breeds of sheep scattered across the Adriatic islands, throughout the coastal areas and coastal hinterland, are in themselves a source of ultimate culinary pleasures and an excellent paradigm of the peaks of Croatian gastronomy: those breeds are small, some of them even the smallest in the Mediterranean, and their milk yield is equally small due to meagre but exquisitely aro-matic grazing. On the other hand, however, their meat, milk and the cheese produced from it are delectable indeed.
Croatia cannot compete in quantities and yields of fruit, vegetables, fungi, fish, crabs, meat, cheese or honey with the large world producers. But then, it has no need to. The incredible variety and surprising quality of ingredients, food-stuffs, dishes and processed products offered by these climes and tradition are in themselves a world monument of culture with which one must become familiar with, nur-ture, preserve, respect and above all savour and enjoy.
Hence, the Croatian National Tourist Board will make it an ongoing project to systematically research and present Croatian national gastronomy to the world public in the deeply held belief that, alongside natural attractions and cultural heritage, it is the country’s national gastronomy that represents an outstanding Croatian attraction. It is not enough to learn about it only in its summer version – all four season offer equally exquisite gastronomic experiences.
It can be safely said that Croatia is, so to speak, “on the boil”; agricultural experts and strategists of food production are undertaking a comprehensive inventory, and preparing a national strategy for the country’s road to the European Union. All edible treasures must be listed, described and pro-tected as much as possible so as to ensure their survival within the strictly applied European rules. This is a massive task of
Cultivation of certain
varieties of grape
on the island of
Vis dates back to
pre-Christian times.
local brEEds of shEEp arE rEnownEd for thEir mEat with an ExquisitE tastE, rEsultinG from thE quality of GrazinG - aromatic, and mEdical mEditEr-ranEan hErbs, and thE nEar vicinity of thE sEa which imparts a portion of its salt to thE land. this combination lEnds thE mEat of thEsE animals a vEry spEcial flavour.
invaluable significance; a high percentage of Croats fear that Brussels bureaucracy would not look kindly upon the ancient habits and customs practiced by thousands of small family producers, the very ones who enable Croats to enjoy hundreds of superb dishes prepared throughout our country.
Preservation and advancement of that wonderful heritage of our forefathers is, for Croats and the numerous national minorities who have lived here for a long time, a task which carries with it the very significance of survival. From the holdings of our farmers, from our meadows, forests, streams, rivers and the sea, in every season of the year there arrives to the Croatian markets a myriad of produce and products: fruit, vegetables, wild edible plants, herbs, fungi, fresh and saltwater fish, shellfish, crabs, molluscs, snails, frogs, game, fresh meat, sausages, salamis, hams and proscuittos, breads, rolls and cakes; and they never fail to surprise gourmands and con-noisseurs from all over the world. Not by quantity – Croatia is, as we have said, a small country – but with their incredible variety. Amidst this wealth of choice one can select foodstuffs and dishes that stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest in the world, forming the basis of our national gastronomy which the world has yet to discover in its full glory, aroma and flavour. Bearing in mind its real potentials, very little is indeed known in the world about Croatia's gastronomy. This is why we are working on a strategy.
Croatia will not amaze anybody with the quantities of food produced here. In the Croatian waters of the Adriatic there are relatively small numbers of fish and other sea creatures. But it is the story of the Adriatic which is typical of Croatia’s gastronomy: neither the sea nor the seabed is overcrowded by massive numbers, but the variety of species living here is quite something. From a culinary standpoint this wealth gains another, yet more distinct quality: the frutti di mare of the Adriatic are deemed to be among the most delectable in the world. Pilchard, sand smelt, anchovy, tuna, dentex, gilthead, John Dory, red mullet, scampi, sea spider, lobster, oyster, scal-lops, calamari, squid... In the right hands all of them can be transformed into a feast fondly remembered with pleasure even by those who have enjoyed feasts all over the world.
Croatia neither can nor should compete with the large food producers. Here, the holdings are fragmented; fields, barns and
fishing boats are small. This situation, which for decades has been a serious national problem, is now proving to be a first class potential. In Croatia, chickens do indeed peck in courtyards, eating what nature provides; here, sheep do graze aromatic herbs; tuna fish feed on live pilchards in clear seas, and in forests wild strawberries happily grow in the company of mushrooms – until bears discover them and have themselves a feast...
Viewed against water resources throughout the world, Croatian waters, fresh and salt, standing and running, sur-face or underground, are all well preserved. The soil is not contaminated with heavy metals, nor is it exhausted by over-intensive agriculture. The air is considerably cleaner than in the majority of other European countries, and people are being brought up, and are therefore accustomed to, a traditional cuisine of first-rate nutritious properties, not only in the Mediterranean part of the country but in its vales in the north and in the mountain area extending between the coastal region and the Pannonian plain.
To savour a pogaèa (round, unleavened bread) made from ancient varieties of grain from Meðimurje, salted by salt har-vested on the Dalmatian islands is in itself a gastronomic expe-rience fit to start a culinary feast in Croatia. An expeexpe-rienced connoisseur can follow the intricate paths of Croatian cuisine, and they will lead him from the rural origins, via folk tradition, to the intelligent concepts of brilliant young cooks in their fine restaurants. What a challenge for a palate worthy of its name!
With this publication we aim to outline the gastronomic routes through Croatia which are of particular interest, or rather those which lead to singular culinary pleasures.
The tourist map of Croatia divides the country into tourist regions. Each is a source of high quality cuisine, regardless of whether the offered dish is a polenta made from white maize, which takes hours of gentle cooking and stirring in a cauldron over an open fire in the old- fashioned hearth of a household that earns its living through agro-tourism, or a pheasant paté flavoured with fresh Istrian truffles made for the exclusive festival of high gastronomy called The Golden Truffle. First rate foodstuffs and ways of preparing them can be found throughout the land, and the charm of getting to know them, from one cluster to another, lies in the rich and colourful varieties found regionally and locally.
dalmatia – zadar liKa -
Karlovac16-19 20-23 dalmatia – ŠibEniK24-27
slavonia 36-39 cEntral
croatia40-43 dalmatia –
split 28-31 dubrovniKdalmatia – 32-35 zaGrEbcity of 44-53
01
istr
stria is the first Croatian region which has long been visited by special type of guest: those who regard gastronomy either as the most important, or as one of the very important, reasons for travelling. The consequence of a process in which guests visiting the Istrian coast began to "discover" its interior, completely removed from large tourist complexes and similar urban interventions. Istria’s interior was, in that respect, a virgin land and is, in fact, described in monographs written today as Terra incognita, as the ancient cartographers used to describe an unknown, unexplored land. The coast and the interior of Istria were, indeed are, complementary not only in the magnificent landscapes and a dramatic change of atmosphere, but they also formed and form a unique gastronomic entity combining the sea food provided by the Mediterranean with its hinterland. Frutti
di mare of exquisite quality were rounded off by
produce from gardens, orchards, vineyards and forests in the peninsula’s interior. As a whole, the gastronomy of Istria presents itself as one of com-plete harmony, characterized first and foremost by traditional folk and urban cuisine offered in numerous pubs, inns and cellars.
Istria was also the area in which the first truly luxurious restaurants in Croatia opened their doors. Tourist guides published by the Tourist Board of the County of Istria were the first to start a systematic and reliable exploration and follow-up, as well as offering encouragement for the development of quality catering establish-ments. Concurrently, the well organized Istrian wine growers began to set up clear criteria for
wine roads, and soon the whole of Istria was
criss-crossed with such roads.
As a gastronomic entity Istria is a phenomenon of world ranking. Its folk cuisine is a centuries-old response, on the one hand to economic depriva-tion, and on the other to the abundant generosity of nature and the great culinary models of the nearby Italian provinces. Simple popular dishes again seem very modern: omelettes (locally known
i
TourisT Board of The CounTy of isTria Pionirska 1, 52440 Poreč tel.: +385 52 452 797 fax: +385 52 452 796 E-mail: [email protected] www.istra.hr
as one of complete harmony,
characterized first and foremost by traditional folk and urban cuisine offered
in numerous pubs, inns and cellars. as a gastronomic entity istria
is a phenomenon of world ranking. its folk cuisine is a centuries-old response,
on the one hand to economic deprivation, and on the other to the
abundant generosity of nature and the great culinary models of the nearby
italian provinces.
T h e g a s T r o n o m y
o f i s T r i a p r e s e n T s i T s e l f
chEEsE madE from Goat milK is EspEcially dElicious whEn flavourEd with trufflE.
briefly smoke dried boned pork loin, and game both large and small.
The interest that everyday Istrian cuisine began to generate in recent decades, not only among guests from other parts of Croatia but also among those beyond our borders, gave rise to the development of agrotourism, a catering industry in rural homesteads based on produce from the homestead itself. Today, agrotourism is the key gastronomic feature of the interior of Istria with a range of dishes no longer restricted to a dozen or so of the most typical. Alongside the standard range on offer many households are now expanding their production of high quality home grown foods, and we now have, for instance, small family game breeding farms. Most usual is the feathered variety, but in Istria it is not surprising to find a wild boar being kept in a pen, as is the case in Pladnjaki. In such cases village tourism can offer such delicacies as ombolo, prosciutto and sausages produced from such game.
8 croatian Gastronomy
01
istria
owinG to thEir natural bEauty and archaEoloGi-cal loarchaEoloGi-calitiEs, thE brijuni archipElaGo, just off thE town of pula, Enjoys thE status of a nation-al parK.
as fritaja), practically a trade mark of Istrian cuisine, are a clear demonstration of this. Based first and foremost on good free-range eggs, cooked to perfection, or if you will a
point, to use the gastronomic patois. Added to the omelettes
is one, or at most two ingredients, whose taste is a domi-nant one in the dish, and the selection of which is dictated by the season, as is the case in particular with wild asparagus. In a nutshell, Istrian fritaja with wild asparagus is a popular dish which meets all the crite-ria of modern-day high cuisine.
Maneštra, or as some would say
min-estrone, is also a part of Istrian culinary tradition. Boiled potatoes and beans, with the addition of seasonal vegeta-bles which give this particular dish its name: maneštra with sweet corn, bar-ley, chick-peas, fennel; when combined with sauerkraut and turnip it is called
yota. Specific characteristics of Istrian maneštra is pešt – finely chopped bacon,
parsley and garlic. Thus prepared, paste is added at the commencement of cook-ing in order to ensure that the bacon is thoroughly cooked.
Folk, urban and fine cuisines catering in Istria overlap and intertwine, which is no wonder since they are all based on gastronomic icons such as indigenous forms of pasta made from top quality flour; then there are oysters, sea spiders, the best of deep sea fish, white and black truffles and other mushrooms, wild asparagus, Istrian prosciutto, pancetta, a specially cured bacon, sausages and ombolo, spiced and
Oysters from the
Lim channel are
a renowned
specialty of the
Northern Adriatic.
The mainstay of Istrian catering, and the guarantee of a good atmosphere, is the range of simple house wines - and wine has for centuries been the medium of socializing. In Istrian pubs people still enjoy the Istrian supa, served in a
bukaleta (a ceramic jug): gently warmed red wine, most
often teran or borgogna, is poured into a bukaleta, a slice of freshly toasted bread is added, together with few drops of olive oil, a spoon of sugar and a pinch of freshly ground pepper. The jug is passed around the table with wine being drunk, actually sipped, through the bread, which makes it extremely drinkable.
Istrian supa is a custom typical of small village and town
oštarije, or if you will, pubs. Atmosphere in those
establish-ments is created first and foremost by an open fireplace which, although frequently set into a corner, is the social hub of the place; food is cooked on it, meat sizzles on its metal grids; people really love to gather around, particularly in winter time.
Ombolo is the king of a menu prepared in such fireplaces.
Slightly smoked pork loin is sliced and grilled over the charcoal. It is often served with sauerkraut, and in combi-nation with Istrian sausage.
t r u f f l E s
It is quite usual that mystery stories are spun about truf-fles before they are accepted as a part of local cuisine. Istria was no different. It was only at the beginning of the last century that Istrians realized what a gastronomic jewel they had at their disposal. Several excellent types of truffles grow in Istria almost the year round, while the most treasured one, the white truffle or Tuber magnatum
pico, a kilo of which can fetch more than 3000 euro, come
to the market in the autumn. The truffle season lasts up to the end of the year.
The main site of this undoubtedly most expensive food-stuff is the famous Motovun forest, located alongside the Mirna River, at the foot of the mount upon which rises the magnificent little town of Motovun. World experts have still not decided how
the famous truffle from Alba came to have a twin of equal quality in Motovun and several other smaller habitats through Istria. But
ombolo- a bonEd porK loin first briEfly smoKEd and thEn GrillEd ovEr hot coals.
Agrotourism is the key gastronomic feature of the interior of this
peninsula. It is based on rural holdings offering quality, home-
cooked food served in a homely and intimate atmosphere.
thE woods around thE anciEnt and EnchantinG, tiny towns of motovun and Grožnjan, are rEplEtE with all Kinds of mush-rooms which lEnd thEmsElvEs rEadily to a variEty of dElicious dishEs. wild asparaGus Grows all ovEr thE
northEn part of istria in thE sprinG-timE.
pasta sprinKlEd with GratEd trufflEs, whitE or blacK, form a part of thE mEnu of almost EvEry rEstaurant.
risottos of EvEry imaGinablE Kind - from thE rEd onE madE with radiccio, to thE blacK onE with squid inK - arE anothEr istrian spEcialty not to bE missEd.
01
istria
the international gatherings of experts and thematic gas-tronomic presentations entitled Golden truffle held in the Marino restaurant in Kremelje, near Momjan, arrived at a clear conclusion: the white truffle of Istria is in no way inferior to those from Alba! Indeed, an American jour-nalist discovered that many “truffles from Alba” actually
originate in Istria.
At the special presentation of haute
cuisine held in the Valsabbion
restau-rant not far from Pula, Bruno Clement, the renowned French culinary wizard, also known as the King of Truffles, publicly confirmed that conclusion in the autumn of 2003. The largest white truffle ever found, weighing almost a kilogram-and-a-half, was found in the Motovun forest.
Until recently the Istrian white truf-fle was unknown on the world stage of luxury gastronomy. It was reaching fine restaurants of the world through smug-gling, and was served either without its origin being given, or was being falsely presented as Italian. Today, Istrians no longer wish to smuggle, or even export their truffles. But neither do they want to save them for themselves. It’s not that they don’t like them, they want even more to be able to offer them to those true connoisseurs of this magical fungus who come to visit the small corner of the world from which this delicacy originates.
Traditional Istrian dishes prepared with truffles are very simple, particularly when the best, the white truf-fle is being used. Nothing should be allowed to impair its
majestic gastronomic presence. Right at table, right before the guest, a small amount of truffle is grated over freshly cooked pasta, Istrian fui (somewhat similar in shape to Italian garganeli) or gnocchi, and there you have it! Omelette, or fritaja with truffles is served in a similar way.
Until very recently
the white truffle of
Istria was unknown
by the elite
gastro-nomy of the world.
EvEn thE roman EmpErors who build thE amphi-thEatrE in pula considErEd that thE arEa of istria was bEst for thE cultivation of supErior olivEs.
i s t r i a n p a s t a a n d
i t s p i c t u r E s q u E
G a r n i s h i n G s
In the course of its journey from Italy towards Istria both names and forms of pasta changed, eventually being trans-formed into authentic features of Istrian cuisine. Lovers of Italian pasta could probably become confused by the Istrian
lasagna. They are not in fact rectangular sheets of pasta laid one on top of another with sauce in between, but simply wide strip noodles, a shape which makes them suitable for different dishes, including making tasty nests for white truffles.
The best known Istrian pasta is fui, small squares of pasta diagonally rolled into tubes. Flour, salt and water are mixed into smooth dough which is rolled into a thin sheet, cut into 4x4cm squares, the opposite corners of which are folded towards the middle and pressed so as to stick together.
Suitable for a variety of dishes, fui are most often found as a welcoming starter to gvacet – delectable Istrian goulash, i.e. pieces of meat in a thick gravy - chicken version is very popular and widespread, as well as all kinds of larger game.
The favourite pasta in Sveti Vinæent and its surroundings are
pljukanci, small, spindle-shaped pieces of dough, most
appreciat-ed when servappreciat-ed with pieces of prosciutto and wild asparagus, or with gravy made with sausage or of mushroom, locally known as
martinèica or, if you will, Clitocybe geotropa. But it is also quite
suf-ficient to sprinkle this excellent pasta with good grated cheese – particularly if it comes from the nearby village of Šikuti. There, one can chance on a very strong cheese, made of a mixture of sheep and goat milk, but which is not easy to find.
Home-made pasta is highly appreciated in Istria, but there
istria is onE of thE bEst placEs for olivE GrowinG and for thE produc-tion of top quality olivE oil.
fritaja, i.e., an omElEttE with aspara-Gus, is a dElicacy EnjoyEd in istrian homEs
The largest truffle ever, weighing
almost 1.5 kg, was found in
Istria's Motovun woods.
supa, or istrian soup, sErvEd in a buKalEta: rEd winE with a slicE of toastEd brEad, a pinch of salt and pEppEr, and a fEw drops of olivE oil, is drunK from cEramic juGs.
buzEt, a small, old town situatEd inland, cElEbratEs thE bEGinninG of thE trufflE sEason with a GiGantic omElEttE. a widE ranGE of trufflE variEtiEs
Grows in istria all yEar round.
are a number of small producers who have earned a fine reputation among connoisseurs of good pasta.
M a n e š t r a o d b o b i ć i
( m i n E s t r o n E w i t h s w E E t c o r n )
The best known of the thick stews in Istria is the famous
maneštra od bobiæi, yet another example of how a great
dish can be born out of privation. After all, its main ingredient is a prosciutto bone, and tradition has it that it was used more than once, even borrowed from house to house. Young sweet corn, potatoes, red beans, garlic, celery leaf, pepper and panceta (specially cured meaty bacon) or at least its rind – these are the ingredients that go to make this stew, in addition to the prosciutto bone, of course. Maneštra of bobiæi, cooked slowly over a gentle heat, is now once again as popular as it was so long ago when some anonymous genius created it.
02
kvar
nd these are only some of the attractions, to which we must add snails, frogs, honey, and for many the highest ace of Croatian gastronomy, lamb in all its delectable variations, from Pag, Cres, Krk, Rab and other areas... This is also the area where the best scampi in the Adriatic are caught and prepared. Among the many compliments given to them is that which claims no other scampi in the world can compare to them!
It is therefore logical that with such ingredients it was here in the Kvarner cluster that modern Croatian cuisine was being created in the second half of the 20th century. Today, some of the leading restaurants in our country, given a prominent place in the leading world guides, can be found here.
m a r u n i
Growing in the foothills of Uèka, is the famous chestnut tree known as Lovranski marun, that is, the marron of Lovran, whose fruit is most com-monly eaten roasted. Come their season sometime in October Lovran holds its traditional festivity,
Marunada, when gastronomy is devoted to the sweet
chestnut. In the streets they are eaten roasted, but in restaurants a range of dishes both sweet and savoury, including chestnut soup, are prepared.
f r o G s
Although frogs of excellent quality are found in several locations throughout Croatia, the inhab-itants of Lokve in Gorski kotar are renowned for their particular fondness for frogs. These are best towards the end of April, during the abarska
noæ (Night of Frogs) when the finest frog is
“elected” and when some very specific dishes can be savoured, particularly “frogs a la Lokve”: frog legs stewed with snails and local wild mush-rooms, served with boiled potatoes or polenta.
d o r m o u s E
Few people outside the Kvarner area know that TourisT Board of The CounTy
of primorje - gorski koTar n. tesle 2, p.p. 52, 51410 opatija tel.: +385 51 272 988 fax: +385 51 272 909 E-mail: [email protected] www.kvarner.hr
for a detailed list of county tourist boards, please refer to page 54.
is a site of most varied opportunities. from the
mountain of Učka in the direction of dalmatia, it is a continuation of istria. the
largest croatian islands (cres and Krk) form a part of this cluster, as do the
mountain massifs in the regions of Gorski kotar. first class fish, crabs and other
frutti di mare are readily available in the markets, side by side with “frutti di
forest”: mushrooms, wild fruit, game, and to round if all off here one can savour
some of the best cheeses in this country, made from cow, sheep and goat milk
from the livestock grazing on mountain, coastal and island meadows.
T o T h e C u r i o u s
g a s T r o n o m e k v a r n e r
the dormouse is the gastro-specialty of this region. Today, the uninitiated tend to look at them askance, but recipes for their preparation can be found as long ago as Apicius’ collection of recipes. Nowadays, their flesh is mostly fried or spit-roasted. The most delectable of all is a young dormouse cooked over char-coal, sometimes coated with corn flour. Older ones are prepared in goulash and served with polenta. Dormouse is served in Kastav, Liganj, Lovranska Draga... On Whit Sunday (one week after St. Michael’s Day, September 29th) when the hunting season opens the dormouse becomes a gastronomic delicacy of the first order.
U d i č
Salted leg of an older lamb or a sheep is hung to dry in the bora (north wind), and sometimes allowed to smoke for a brief period. On Cres, leg of lamb thus pre-pared is called udiè and is one of the lesser known pearls of Croatian rural gastronomy. The same method is also practised around Dubrovnik, particularly in Konavle.
G r o b n i č k i s i r
Grobnièki sir, or cheese from the Grobnik range, is produced
from milk of sheep which graze on the mountain meadows of Gorski kotar, in the villages above the Grobnik range.
This large cylinder cheese does not come in any uniform shape since it is shaped by hand, without pressing. It can weigh up to 20 kg. This is a distinctly salty cheese, which is why in Rijeka they call it just that: salty cheese.
c h E E s E s o f t h E
K v a r n E r i s l a n d s
Grazing on the north Adriatic islands is very distinct, and it yields a readily identifiable aromatic sheep milk. On the island of Krk, people produce a small cheese weighing less than half a kilo, locally known as formajela. Around Vrbnik it is usually spherical, while above Baška it is square. If not sold in its fresh form it is kept in olive oil for up to a year.
On the islands of Cres and Lošinj, cheese is larger and usu-ally with a higher fat content. Sometimes it is coated with the residue of olives which remains after the oil has been pressed out
lambs rEarEd on thE islands of thE northErn adriatic, and from thE
hintEr-land of vElEbit, arE spit-roastEd in many rEstau-rants found alonGsidE thE road.
kvarner
14 croatian Gastronomy02
it is in this arEa that thE bEst scampi of thE adriatic arE cauGht and prEparEd.
Frutti di
mare and
fish are a
dominant
feature in
restaurants
along the
shores.
of them, and sometimes, although more rarely, it is smoked. On the island of Rab cheeses are made still larger. These cheeses can weigh over two kg, and are consider-ably harder than the cheese produced on the more north-erly islands of Kvarner.
M i n e š t r a o f k o r o M a č a
Thick vegetable soups were, to a great degree, born out of poverty, but that is precisely the reason why they are such excellent examples of folk culinary genius, particularly in the areas along the coast and on the islands. The old recipe used on Lošinj is one such example of a dish which once was a pauper’s meal but is today being sought after by knowledge-able connoisseurs. Potato and soaked beans are cooked until the soup reaches the desired thickness; carrots, parsley and garlic are added, followed by finely chopped panceta (meatybacon) and finally, young shoots of koromaè, (fennel) to imbue the dish with its wonderful, aromatic fragrance.
Š u r l i c E
The inhabitants of the island of Krk take great pride in their indigenous type of pasta, šurlice. It is not unlike the Istrian fui, but more elongated and thinner, and is most often served with thick meat gravies or frutti di mare sauces. When a dish is prepared with lamb, as in Baška or, for special occasions, with game, a palatable everyday meal becomes a memorable gastronomic experience. The cus-tom of preparing šurlice in catering establishments has also been preserved in Dobrinj, a charming small town in the interior of the island of Krk.
thE maroni, or rathEr, swEEt chEstnuts, arE bEst EatEn roastEd. a dElicacy madE of thin pastry and
fruit. frEshly picKEd bluEbErriEs, rasbEr-riEs, blacKbErriEs, wild strawbEr-riEs, currants…
a sEa-bass fillEt in a saucE of rosEmary and whitE winE
First class fish, crabs and other frutti di mare are
readily available in the markets, side by side with
“frutti di forest”: mushrooms, wild fruit, game...
brodEtto prEparEd with anGlEr, is a spEcialty madE from fish, onions, tomatoEs, carrots and winE, and is a vEry popular dish up and down thE coast. thE huGEly apprEciatEd caKEs and othEr dEsErts madE of thE maroni, or rathEr swEEt chEstnut of lovran
03
03
lika
—
ountaineering, recreational tourism linked to mountain streams, rivers and lakes (notably, rafting, canoeing and canyoning), mountain cycling, numerous paths through the protected environments of national parks and nature parks – which include the world renown Plitvice Lakes – have made Lika a delightfull discovery even for Croatian tourists.
The centuries of neglect are now proving themselves to have been the guardians of an exceptional comparative advantage that the wide expanse of pristine nature has to offer. Among other things, the appreciation for the local gastronomy is growing at a pace. The selection of rustic tradi-tion is presenting itself in the new light, indeed, it is being seen in the new light. Aimed at a true connoisseur – its recipes not being the result of the chef’s tricks of the trade but of the top quality food-stuffs that meet the highest of ecological standards – this gastronomy is based on indigenous, wild growing plants, particularly mushrooms and fruit of the forest. Up to now the vast majority of mush-rooms – boletus of Lika and chanterelle – were exported, for instance to Italy, and sold there as the best Italian mushrooms. New collection sta-tions and drying facilities have enabled the forest mushrooms of Lika to become an appreciated brand among the connoisseurs.
Milk and dairy products, made primarily from cow and sheep milk, bring all the qualities of the first class grazing, at times superior even to graz-ing offered by the Alpine meadows. The same can safely be said about the fish and crabs, be they from streams or lakes. The fishing grounds for trout and some other fresh water fish are regarded as one of the most favoured destina-tions at the global level, and within that context Gacka is a trully mythical name. Roe obtained from the Lika trout has been recognized as the new delicacy which attracts both gourmands and gourmets with its appearance and its golden cop-pery colour, not to say anything about its flavour. Dried and briefly smoke-cured fillets of the Lika TourisT Board of The
CounTy of karlovaC Karlovac, a. vraniczanya 6, 47000 Karlovac tel.: +385 47 615 320 fax: +385 47 601 415, E-mail: [email protected]; www.tzkz.hr
for a detailed list of county tourist boards, please refer to page 54.
in croatia has brought to the forth the
mountainous region of lika which has been neglected for many years. and while
the new roads opened up new and impressive vistas, the old ones – the traffic
loads and traffic jams now out of their way – were presented with the
opportuni-ty to provide services in tune with their unpolluted natural surroundings.
T h e C o n s T r u C T i o n
o f n e w , m o d e r n r o a d s
trout are now being vacuum-packed and are becoming available at the wider market.
The very water in which these fish and crabs find their habitat is itself a first rate gastronomic attraction. Almost all water flowing through Lika are not only potable, but are also rated among mineral and spring waters of superb quality. More and more of it is now being bottled and offered at local and foreign markets. And more and more chefs are now using water of such fine quality to prepare all stews and soupy dishes, such as the famous Lièki lonac (or rather the Lika Stew) which will, it has to be said, be at its best when prepared with meat from cattle grazed on the local meadows, with vegetables grown in the local
soil and under the local climate conditions, and of course, cooked in the waters of Lika.
The return to the roots of gastronomy in Lika sends a special message: quench your thirst with fresh spring water, stay your hunger with a flat-bread made from wheat freshly ground in a water-mill, fortify yourself with plum-brandy „baked“ and nurtured from home-grown plums. And all
GacKa rivEr
lika—karlovac
18 croatian Gastronomy
03
ŠKripavac, or as somE would say, “squEaKy” chEEsE madE of cow milK, saltEd and driEd. frittErs: vEry
simplE and tasty, traditional dElicacy of liKa
those are experiences of fundamental quality not easily forgotten by a gastronome worthy of the name.
t h E l i K a p o t a t o
The protection of the geographic origin of the Lika potato is a good example of the validation of culinary skills. The optimum quality of unpolluted soil, the altitude, the climatic conditions and the variety selection, result in a readily identifiable, superb qual-ity potato which has now, finally, been branded in an appropriate manner. This has been a salvation from oblivion for some of the simple dishes of the region, such as the Lièkepole, or as some would say “potato
halves”. Potatoes of larger and medi-um size are washed and sliced in half, unpeeled. Each half is hollowed out, a cube of bacon is placed into the potato, and pota-toes are then baked – best results are achieved if they are baked in a bread oven or under a peka (a domed, cast iron lid that is placed over food and covered with live coal). They go particularly well with
soured sheep milk or semi-hard cheese locally known as škripavac (squeaky).
t h E l i K a f r E s h - w a t E r
f i s h s o u p
An excellent example of a new and modern dish that blends well with the local culinary tradition is the cream fresh-water fish soup. The Lika trout is filleted, and meat is taken from the tails of river crabs. Heads, bones, shells and pincers, with the addition of onion and a whole potato, are covered with water and allowed to boil to a stock. The soup is then strained and puréed with the potato. The trout fillets and crab meat are placed into the soup and boiled briefly, a dash of butter and a sprig or two of fresh wild-growing herb like wild chives or bear’s garlic are added.
The soup can also be made with trout only.
brEad: brEad baKEd undEr a pEKa – a hEavy mEtal or cEramic lid – on an opEn hEarth.
basa, frEsh chEEsE - madE from cow
or shEEp milK - is a spEcialty of liKa. mushrooms from GorsKi Kotar and liKa arE a sourcE of GrEat plEasurE for connoissEurs and ExpErts aliKE.
those are experiences of fundamental quality not easily forgotten by a gastronome worthy of the name.
t h E l i K a p o t a t o
The protection of the geographic origin of the Lika potato is a good example of the validation of culinary skills. The optimum quality of unpolluted soil, the altitude, the climatic conditions and the variety selection, result in a readily identifiable, superb qual-ity potato which has now, finally, been branded in an appropriate manner. This has been a salvation from oblivion for some of the simple
Lièke or as some would say “potato halves”. Potatoes of larger and medi-um size are washed and sliced in half, unpeeled. Each half is hollowed out, a cube of bacon is placed into the potato, and pota-toes are then baked – best results are achieved if they are baked in a bread oven or under a peka (a domed, cast iron lid that is placed over food and covered with live coal). They go particularly well with
The soup can also be made with trout only. sauErKraut and smoKE-driEd mEat, a tradi-tional dish in liKa, prEparEd mostly in thE wintEr months. lamb and potato baKEd undEr a pEKa – a hEavy
mEtal or cEramic lid – Known spEcialty of liKa.
The selection of rustic tradition is
presenting itself in the new light.
dalmatia
zadar
he two opposites of the Mediterranean clime are found in the Zadar region: bare rocky countryside where only the most sturdy of medicinal plants of the Kornati islands will grow and on which only the hardiest livestock, sheep, goats, donkeys, game and even bees can live, and the rich, fertile land of Ravni kotari, from where the most sought after fruit and vegetables arrive to the markets of Croatia.
And it is in this unique area that the best black sour cherry, the famous
maraska, grows. A natural environment of such generosity was bound to
inspire gastronomic geniuses to create top quality recipes, ranked among which is undoubtedly the world renowned Maraschino liqueur. It has many surrogates, but only in Zadar is the liqueur produced from the indigenous
Maraska black/sour cherry, in strict observance of an original process
devised three centuries ago.
s a r d i n E s
The largest fishing village on the Croatian Adriatic is Kali, on the island of Ugljan. Kali fishermen catch all types of fish but the basis of both their trade and of fishing in general on the Croatian Adriatic is the sardine. It ranks among the most inexpensive of fish, but often also among the most highly rated. For most fishermen, and other connoisseurs, there is no better fish dish than the modest sardine, but only if the sardine meets a crucial criterion: that it is prepared and eaten for elevenses in the morn-ing after the night it is caught. Due to its cyclic movement, the sardine is most difficult to catch during summer months, but according to experts it is in that very same period that this little fish is at its most delicious.
In addition to being grilled fresh there are two other ways most frequently used to prepare sardines: salt-pickled or marinated. Of late, however, young Croatian chefs have demon-strated that sardines can be a part of a meal served to the most fastidious customers. Usually,
of the croatian part of the adriatic. islands, coastal
areas and the hinterland provide everything that goes to make mediterranean
cuisine one of the most popular in the world. it is just as highly regarded by
doctors who research healthy diets, and among the most reputable
gastro-critics in search of strong, perfectly balanced flavours.
t
TourisT Board of The CounTy of Zadar sv. Leopolda b. Mandića 1 23000 zadar; tel.: +385 23 315 107 fax: +385 23 315 316 E-mail: [email protected] www.zadar.hr
n o r T h e r n d a l m a T i a
l i e s i n T h e C e n T r e
cial reveal their hidden, unexpected qualities when combined with others in a finely balanced blend.
The criterion of a fisherman’s brudet is the most practi-cal one: it is made from the fish caught on the day, or night. It is difficult, indeed practically impossible, to list all the variations of this dish. The basis of the recipe is onion fried in olive oil, to which small fish are added whole, while larger ones are cut into pieces, followed by vegetables, spices, herbs, wine, prosecco, wine vinegar, and even sea water. The key condition for a good brudet is that it is made of several types of fish. The sequence in which individual types of fish are added is also important; indeed, bearing in mind the texture of their meat it can be crucial to the final the spine is removed from
a fresh sardine, which is then dipped into a variety of breaded mixtures with aromatic herbs, briefly fried and served with freshly-made light veg-etable sauces.
t h E c h E E s E
o f p a G
The most highly acclaimed cheese in Croatia is Paški sir, the cheese from the island of Pag. Sheep bred on this island are among the smallest in the whole of the Mediterranean and
there-fore their milk yield is low, but it is the result of the meagre grazing abounding with medicinal herbs. The fierce bora swoops down from Velebit, whipping up the salty waters of the sea and blowing them across these meadows, which at times become white with salt, as if snow covered. Consequently, the milk that these sheep give is naturally salty and needs no additional salt. Cheese produced on this island, particularly in the cheese dairy in Kolan, has in recent years won the highest awards at presti-gious exhibitions in the Mediterranean. It is in such demand that it is sold after a maturing period of only a few months. On rare occasions is it allowed to mature for a year or more and it is undoubtedly one of the finest sheep cheeses in the world. The quality of sheep milk from Pag is such that its curd is also regarded as a first class specialty. The whey remaining after curdled fresh cheese has been removed is heated and gently cooked, bringing to the surface a product resembling fresh clotted cheese, locally known as puina. It is excellent when served with home-cooked polenta or pasta, and makes a delicious dessert when mixed with Pag honey, and when used as filling for pancakes.
b r u d E t
Brudet, brujet, brodet or, if you will, brodetto,
is the most common dish on the Croatian Adriatic, but it is especially loved throughout Dalmatia. In the Zadar, Šibenik and Split clusters culinary skills are measured against one’s ability to excel in the preparation of brudet. The magic of a good brudet is that it makes the types of fish normally regarded as nothing
spe-swiss chard, toGEthEr with miŠanca - a mixtu-rE of wild-Grown
GrEEn plants - is thE bEst sidE dish for fish.
dalmatia
Z a d a r
22 croatian Gastronomy
Marachino liqueur
is prepared from the
finest variety of black
cherry - the famous
Maraska of Zadar.
04
brudEt, brujEt, brodEt or as somE would say, brodEtto, is thE most popular fish dish on thE croatian adriatic, and is particularly apprEciatEd in dalmatia. thE numbEr of its variations arE many.
result, i.e. its flavour.
In order to improve the flavour still further, many cooks like to add an occasional crab, or at least some shellfish. In the past the island of Zlarin was famous for its lobster
brudet; in Skradin it is made from eels. Undoubtedly,
though, the most curious is the brudet known as falši, which contains no fish, no crabs and no shellfish – only vegetables and spices, and a stone taken from the sea!
l j u t i K a
Among connoisseurs, ljutika, a particular type of onion, is highly prized for its rich, full flavoured taste, while at the same time being less heavy on one’s stomach than other types of onion. In some areas of the Zadar, Šibenik and Split clusters, as well as in some other parts of the coastal region, ljutika is pickled in wine vinegar, the onion being unpeeled because it retains its true flavour much better and
Z a d a r
thE adriatic sEa abounds in many typEs of shEllfish: mussEls, arK shEll, oystErs...
fish roastEd ovEr hot coals is a Gastronomic dElicacy par ExcEllEncE.
srdEla, or pilchards, thE chEap-Est of fish, is frEquEntly most apprEci-atEd - and whEn prEparEd by ExpErts it is a top ranGE dElicacy. ljutiKa, a partic-ular typE of onion, mild and rich in flavour, is oftEn picKlEd in rEd winE vinEGar.
For most fishermen and the true
connoisseur, there is no better fish than
the popular pilchard.
soup prEparEd with lEntils, chicK-pEas and frEsh vEGEtablEs is a nourishinG and tasty introduction to any midday mEal
they last longer, but peeled when they need to be pickled faster. In these parts of Croatia ljutika is of exceptional qual-ity and really comes into its own in a brudet.
dalmatia
05
xtending from the canyon, waterfalls and the mouth of the River Krka to the Kornati archipelago are areas which constitute the most beautiful and most lovingly preserved national parks of Croatia. If one were to be pressed to sum up the description and experience of the magic of the Croatian landscape in one single place, then Skradin is a good choice. Skradin is a town nestling beneath the Krka waterfalls, where the river meets the sea. Mystics come here to meditate on the power of nature, while some of the world’s wealthiest people come here seeking hidden berths for their yachts, as Bill Gates has been doing for years.
The art of the gastronomy of these parts is just as obsessive and links some of the oldest traditions not only of this area but of food prepara-tion in general, with dishes that are found on the most popular menus
of luxury restaurants in the world. Here, one can still find mišni sir, whose preparation dates back to the very beginnings of cooking: milk which has curdled naturally in a sheepskin. Or wild oysters enjoyed by man today in the same way as his predecessors, of long, long ago. Pick them from the sea, open them and swallow them with a sigh of unadulterated pleasure. Grilled fish, prepared simply but with great care, are offered in the same restaurants where one can savour the unique Skradin risotto which, almost like an alchemist’s ritual, takes 12 hours to prepare, and in which meat fibres are gently transformed into quite new gastro-nomic substances.
s i r i z m i Š i n E /
m i Š n i s i r
In the mountainous hinterland of the Zadar, Šibenik, Split and Dubrovnik clusters, cheese made from sheep milk is produced following the ancient method: it is allowed to age in a sheep-skin. It is not shaped into any particular form, but comes in small grainy lumps and is delivered to markets in the sheepskins in which it has
is described as a unique monument of nature
within which man has created superb monuments of culture that are ranked
among the top of the list of world heritage: like Šibenik cathedral, a work by the
master builder juraj dalmatinac (Georgius dalmaticus).
T h e l a n d s C a p e
o f T h e Š i B e n i k r e g i o n
e
TourisT Board of The CounTy of ŠiBenik - knin fra n.ružića bb; 22000 šibenik tel.: +385 22 219 072 fax: +385 22 212 346 E-mail: [email protected] www.sibenikregion.com
matured, which lends it a strong, distinct and memorable flavour. It is best when enjoyed as a part of a simple meal: with flatbread or bread baked under peka (an earthen-ware or metal lid, covered with live coals) accompanied by strong, red Dalmatian wine.
K u m b a s i c E
Kumbasice are what the folk in Skradin call their sausages.
Coarsely minced pork meat is combined with minced beef; the mixture is seasoned with nutmeg and specially prepared garlic: white Dalmatian wine is spiced with garlic and added to the mince. The sausages are gently smoked and then hung out to dry in the bora. They are an essential part of many dishes, but can also be grilled while being basted with olive oil.
s o p a r n j a K
This is a popular folk dish which hails from northern parts of the Šibenik and Split regions. Thin strudel pastry is stuffed with a mixture of Swiss chard, olives, figs and olive oil, rolled and baked (most often in a baker’s oven) and normally eaten cold. A campaign is now under way by the
restaurants of Šibenik and its surroundings to save this excellent dish from oblivion.
GrillEd fish will rElEasE its full flavour only if wE bastE it usinG a twiG of rosEmary dippEd in olivE oil.
dalmatia
š i b e n i k
26 croatian Gastronomy
05
anothEr spEcialty is food - such as mEat or fish, or EvEn brEad - prEparEd undEr a pEKa - a spEcial lid madE EithEr of cast iron or clay and covErEd with livE coals, which is also found in dalmatia.
ž i ž U L a
iula, Zizyphus jujube, or jujube, growing wild and
requir-ing no special care, is greatly appreciated by people livrequir-ing in the Zadar and Šibenik areas. It would probably be just as popular among tourists, except for the fact that it arrives on the markets after the summer season, and almost the entire
crop is consumed fresh, thus giving diligent housewives no opportunity to turn them into a more permanent preserve, such as jam.
In Istria the fruit are immersed in rakia, with the addition of a small amount of sugar, and left for two weeks in the sun, a process which transforms the rakia into a delicious liqueur.
in dalmatia almonds arE usEd not only for caKEs but also for savoury dishEs.
frEsh tuna fish cauGht in thE sEas around thE Kornati archipElaGo is idEal for GrillinG or for carpaccio.
thE local population Enjoys thEir shEllfish just as much as did thEir forEfathErs down thE cEnturiEs.
In the hinterland of Šibenik sir iz mišine, produced in the
traditional way - allowing sheep milk to cure in
sheep skin sacks - is still a treasured specialty.
fiGs - a fruit of southErn climEs, dElicious both frEsh and driEd. harmony of tradition and thE modErn way of lifE: sandwi-chEs with homE-curEd prosciut-to, chEEsE and tomatoEs.
dalmatia
06
ising behind Split are the mountain massifs of Mosor and Biokovo, their peaks often snow-swept, which nevertheless blunt the most fierce onslaughts of the bora. Lying in front of it are the islands of Braè, Šolta, Èiovo and, in the distance, Hvar and Vis, the sunniest of all the islands. A wise man was the Emperor. Nature presents itself here in all its splendour and generosity. Before him, the Greeks cultivated the grapevine and olives on the Dalmatian islands, while those who did not wish to work the land turned to hunting, gathering and fishing: fresh and sea water crabs and fish, frogs and shellfish, mushrooms, blackberries and a variety of other berries, wild-growing edible plants... The continuity of Dalmatian gastronomy is impressive even by the criteria of the demanding Mediterranean cuisine. And what Emperor Diocletian enjoyed in his time has been preserved for us to enjoy, except that this bounty has been still further enhanced by the best ideas of generations of chefs. Principles of what is known as Dalmatian minimalism are being strictly observed: top quality ingredients, first and foremost the best types of fish, are prepared in the shortest and the simplest of ways – boiled, grilled or fried – so as not to impair in any way the perfection of the natural flavours of dory, dentex, gilthead or red mullet. At the same time recipes were created, and endlessly modified and perfected, which required a slow process of preparation over several days, with complex mixtures of spices, such as, for instance,
pašticada.
p a Š t i c a d a
In the hand-written cookery books of individual families in Split, which are handed down and added to from generation to generation, there can be found as many as 20 or so different recipes for one dish: pašticada. This is a meat dish the prepa-ration of which takes, in accordance with old recipes, days of patient preparation even before it comes close to the stove. In the first phase, meat is marinated in wine vinegar flavoured with
but very convincing argument when claiming
superiority for the beauties of their city and its surroundings: Emperor diocletian
had the whole of the roman Empire from which to choose a place for his
magnificent palace. the location he chose is today’s split, its very heart, and the
source of its urban character, the palace, remains to this day.
T h e p e o p l e o f s p l i T
h a v e a v e r y s i m p l e
r
TourisT Board of The CounTy of spliT - dalmaTia Prilaz braće kaliterna 10/i,
p.p. 430, 21000 split tel.: +385 21 490 032; 490 033 fax: +385 21 490 032; 490 033 E-mail: [email protected] www.dalmatia.hr
ing islets, reefs and rocks in search of seagull eggs. An omelette made from seagull eggs is a quite unique dish; it is actually regarded as a fish meal, although no fish is added to it. The bird practically lives on a diet of small fish, which lends a specific flavour to its eggs. The omelette matches perfectly with capers.
l u G a n i G E
Luganige are the famous sausages from the Sinj area, but also
known in Split and Šibenik, where they are an obligatory part of Christmas holiday festive feasts. Luganige are made from a mixture of pork and lamb stuffed into lamb or sheep intestines, but what makes them special are the spicings: lemon juice and grated rind, pepper, coriander, cinnamon and garlic juice. The traditional way in which these sausages are served in Sinj is somewhat curious: fried with rice cooked in chicken stock. In Šibenik they are cooked in beef stock, and the mouth-watering aroma of luganige being prepared heralds a festive lunch.
s m u t i c a
Reaching us from ancient times, possibly even from the pre-Slavic era, is the method of souring milk with wine and wine vinegar still practiced on some Dalmatian islands, Braè and Hvar in particular, which has developed into a very specific drink. A sheep and a nanny goat are milked directly into a glass half-filled with red wine, the result being a foamy beverage locally known as smutica, bikla or ðonkata. This is a favourite elixir of life which restores strength and good mood to the tired and the weary.
different herbs. Pašticada is prepared from beef or yearling beef, mostly the muscle locally known as orah (walnut), although horse meat and large game are also used with equal success. In the second phase, the meat is well browned on all sides, and in the third phase it is gently stewed in gravy containing dried fruit, predominantly prunes, and a number of spices such as cloves, nutmeg, laurel leaf, pepper, with the addition of a little wine and prosecco being added from time to time. Old recipes insist that the dish not be eaten immediately after it is cooked, however long and over however gentle a heat it had been cooked. Pašticada, the old masters will tell us, must be allowed to cool slowly, be cut into chunks, browned again and only then served in its own strained juices.
Gnocchi, normally served with pašticada, must be cooked just prior to being served. Although traditional pašticadas have a very strong, full bodied flavour, it is not uncommon to grate some hard sheep cheese over the gnocchi.
s E a G u l l E G G s
Come springtime, the people of Lastovo visit the
surround-Viška PoGača (fLat bread froM Vis) is a traditionaL dElicacy from thE island of vis: brEad stuffEd with tomatoEs and onion, and somEtimEs with picKlEd pilchards.
dalmatia
s p l i t
30 croatian Gastronomy
Vis is the island
of capers - they
seem to grow
on almost every
stone by the sea.
06
inhabitants of vis picKlE motar (crythmum mariti-mum l., family of fEnnEl), or rocK samphirE, a mEditErranEan plant with succulEnt lEavEs, in winE vinEGar, just as thEy do with capErs.
G a s t r o n o m y o f t h E
c E t i n a
The business people of the world have discovered the beauty of the canyons of the Cetina. They come to enjoy, through them and around them, rafting, canoeing, riding, running, cycling, even parachuting. All those together combined make for a perfect team spirit-building exercise involving extreme effort. The base for this unique exercise of body and soul is Trilj, and its catering establishments are more than prepared to restore exhausted businessmen with a range of first class culinary attractions. The sparklingly clear waters of the Cetina River are a perfect habitat for fresh crayfish, trout and frogs. Trout, larger crabs and frog legs are grilled; smaller varieties usually being set aside for buzara or brudet. But there are also special recipes, such as fried frog legs wrapped in slices of prosciutto, flavoured with rosemary and then slightly cooked with the addition of red wine.
Similar natural and gastronomic attrac-tions are provided by the River
Zrmanja.
s p l i t
hvarsKa GrEGada, a sort of brudEt a
spEciality of thE island of hvar. octopus inK lEnds not only an unusual colour to a risotto, but also a vEry spEcial tastE.
just as in thE oldEn days: shEllfish GrillEd ovEr pinE nEEdlEs.
The continuity of Dalmatian gastronomy is
quite something, even when compared to the
demanding Mediterranean cuisine.
prosciutto, parti-cularly that curEd in istria and dalmatia, stands shouldEr to shouldEr with its italian EquivalEnt. dalmatian cuisinE is inconcEivablE without brodEtto, a soupy Kind of dish prEparEd with fish, carrots, tomatoEs and winE, and most frEquEntly sErvEd with polEnta.
dalmatia
07
he incredible feeling for urban harmony, the power of creation which enabled man to complete its construction, begun by the fierce geomor-phology of the Mediterranean, possesses the same power to amaze as it did centuries ago, combined with the miracle of survival that has survived wars, earthquakes, fires and epidemics. The genius of the people of Dubrovnik has manifested itself in all fields of human endeavour, including gastronomy. The mighty, redoubtable walls of Dubrovnik and the Republic had their counterpoint in the high mobility, investigative, mercantile and adventurous spirit of the mariners of Dubrovnik and their fascinating fleet of elegant sailing ships, at times unrivalled anywhere in the world. Notwithstanding all the benefits of the clime and the soil around Dubrovnik, on the Pelješac peninsula and the nearby islands, the Republic’s mariners never returned from their voyages without seeds, plants, spices and, yes, culinary ideas, from distant exotic lands. It can therefore come as no surprise to learn that culinary multiculturalism has been practiced in Dubrovnik for centuries. In the contemporary catering of this particular area, this wonderful tradition is reflected in a wide range, from the popular cuisine prepared over an open fire or on a grill, found in the villages of Konavle, to the most luxurious dishes served in the finest restaurants where meals are enhanced by the view of the city walls.
c h E E s E o f d u b r o v n i K
In the surroundings of Dubrovnik there is a tradi-tion of producing hard sheep milk cheese formed into small, flat cakes. During the maturing period it is regularly doused with olive oil. Indeed, many Dubrovnik restaurants keep on their shelves large glass containers in which these little cheeses are stored in olive oil.t h E n E r E t va E s t u a r y
The wild, striking features of the Neretva River are sothat there are large numbers of people in
the world who have not heard of croatia, but have heard of dubrovnik. when
people catch their first sight of the city, be it from a plane, car or ship, the view
etches itself into their memory.
s u r v e y p o l l s a n d
e x p e r i e n C e h a v e s h o w n
t
TourisT Board of The CounTy of duBrovnik - nereTva Cvijete Zuzorić 1/i, p.p. 259, 20000 dubrovnik tel.: +385 20 324 999 fax: +385 20 324 224 E-mail: [email protected] www.visitdubrovnik.hr
amazing that the visitor, cruising through the labyrinth of its backwaters, would undoubtedly be prepared to settle for a modest sandwich just to be able to concentrate on the constant changes of landscape around him. But it has to be made quite clear that the estuary of this river is just as much a paradise on Earth for gastronomes, for its land and its subterranean region, its waters and its air are replete with species simply made for an incredible culinary pleasure.
The first attraction undoubtedly is the eel, the enjoyment of which dates as far back as the times of the Roman emperors, Vespasian in particular, as the
archaeological finds in the village of Vid tell us. Its flavour is guaranteed first and foremost by the waters in which it lives; visitors are not a little surprised to see a fisherman reaching down to drink the water on which he is sailing and fishing. Eels being snakelike, swift, slippery and crafty, qualities they amply prove by the fact of their incredible survival, from their spawning grounds in the Sargasso Sea to their habitat in the Neretva estuary, catching them takes a great deal of skill and experience. The largest examples are always the females, males usually being half their size. Throughout the autumn eels are bigger and fatter, and for most connoisseurs those caught in spring are more appreci-ated. However, it is the very fat of the eel that guarantees the juicy texture of meat when prepared by a master. Probably the best way of preparing eels is on a small spit with 5-10 cm-long pieces skewered onto it. The fat melts slowly, soaking into muscles, and the surplus drains off. Eels can also be grilled, or prepared in a brodetto. In this red-coloured dish eels are often accompa-nied by frogs, which are another great gastronomic attraction of the estuary. Wild ducks and coots round off this list.
t h E o y s t E r s o f s t o n
Debates on which are the best oysters in the world are endless – it is difficult to establish a final set of criteria. Among the candidates are certainly the oysters of Ston. And while the final appraisal is subjective, there are, nevertheless, some objectivecriteria that set the oysters of Ston apart from the competition and make them distinct. The sea currents in its environment carry large quantities of minerals, the traces of which impart a very elegant and unique flavour. On the other, northern, end of the Croatian Adriatic the oysters of the Lim canal have made a name for themselves. Connoisseurs, for their part, do their best to, along with the cultivated ones, acquire wild oysters. Especially attractive are the oysters from the mouth of the Krka River where it flows into the Adriatic Sea. In Croatia, along with the treat of eating raw oysters, the younger generation of chefs is serving them batter-fried, grilled, in soups and as an oyster risotto.
dalmatia
d u b r o v n i k
34 croatian Gastronomy
Paradižet, a
Dubrovnik variation
of "floating islands"
- that famous dessert
of Viennese cuisine.
07
rožata, othEr-wisE Known as crEmE caramEl, is a traditional dEssErt of dubrovniK, madE from EGGs and caramEl.in thE surroundinGs of dubrovniK shEEp milK has bEEn usEd for thE production of chEEsE for cEnturiEs.
d u b r o v n i k
raisin, driEd GrapE – a tastE of... thE nErEtva rivEr rEGion is a truE hEavEn for any connoissEur of finE food.
frutti di marE risotto is a must on thE mEnus of rEstaurants and tavErns.
The ingenious folk of Dubrovnik have
demonstrated their abilities in many fields,
including gastronomy.
thE old marKEt in thE cEntrE of town.
because its consumption, even in small quantities, boosts life’s energies and vitality, and it is therefore attributed with powerful aphrodisiac properties. At the beginning of August, mullet from the Neretva estuary start out on their course for the Pelješac peninsula, always on the same day and always along the same route. On Pelješac,
buterga is savoured in one way only: thinly sliced, and
accompanied by bread and wine. Buterga slices resemble ducats, and that is how they are valued too! Alongside the oysters of Ston, butarga is the most outstanding specialty of Pelješac and the Bay of Ston. Butarga slowly melts in the mouth, releasing waves of
powerful flavour and provid-ing a unique experience not readily forgotten. EvEry Kind of fish, prEparEd by an ExpErt, providEs a tastE to rEmEmbEr.
b u t a r G a
Butarga is a fish extract, a powerful concentrate of proteins
and hormones prepared by drying the roe of the grey mullet. It is highly valued not only because it is scarce, but