Farrar, Straus and Giroux Farrar, Straus and Giroux 18 West 18th Street, New York 10011 18 West 18th Street, New York 10011
Copyright © 2012 by Rich Cohen Copyright © 2012 by Rich Cohen Map copy
Map copyright © 2012 by Jeffright © 2012 by Jeffrey L. Ward rey L. Ward All rig
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Distributed in Canada by D&M Publishers, Inc. Distributed in Canada by D&M Publishers, Inc.
Printed in the United States of America Printed in the United States of America
First edition, 2012 First edition, 2012 Grateful ac
Grateful acknowknowledgledgment is made for permission to reprint the following material:ment is made for permission to reprint the following material: Excerpt from
Excerpt fromOne Hundred Years of SolitudeOne Hundred Years of Solitude ( ( Cien años de soledadCien años de soledad ) by Gabr ) by Gabriel Garcíiel Garcíaa Márquez, t
Márquez, translatranslated by Gregored by Gregory Rabay Rabassa, cssa, copyropyright © 1967 by Gabright © 1967 by Gabriel Garcíiel García Márquez,a Márquez, translation copyright © 1970 by Harper & Row Publishers, Inc. Re
translation copyright © 1970 by Harper & Row Publishers, Inc. Reprinted by permissiprinted by permission ofon of Agencia Li
Agencia Literaria Cateraria Carmen Balrmen Balcellcells and Hars and HarperColperCollins Plins Publisheublishers.rs. Excerpt from
Excerpt fromLiving to ell the aleLiving to ell the ale ( ( Vivir para contarlaVivir para contarla ) by Gabr ) by Gabriel García Márqueiel García Márquez,z, translated by Edith Grossman, translation copyr
translated by Edith Grossman, translation copyright © 2003 by Gabriel García Márquez.ight © 2003 by Gabriel García Márquez. Used by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Random House, Inc.
Used by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Random House, Inc. Excerpt from
Excerpt fromEvery Man a King: Te Autobiography of Huey P. LongEvery Man a King: Te Autobiography of Huey P. Long , copy , copyright © 1933 byright © 1933 by Huey P. Long, renewal copyright
Huey P. Long, renewal copyright © 196© 1961 by Ru1 by Russell B. Lssell B. Long. Unabridged reprint editionong. Unabridged reprint edition publis
published 1996 by Da Capo Phed 1996 by Da Capo Press, bress, by arrangemey arrangement with Runt with Russell B. Lssell B. Long, Palmeong, Palmer Long, r Long, andand Christopher R. Brauchli. Reprinted by pe
Christopher R. Brauchli. Reprinted by permission of Palmer R. Lrmission of Palmer R. Long, Jr.ong, Jr., trustee,, trustee, and R. Katherine L
and R. Katherine Long, granddaughter of Huey P. Long.ong, granddaughter of Huey P. Long. Te poem “United Fruit Company” from
Te poem “United Fruit Company” fromCanto GeneralCanto General by Pablo Neruda, translated by by Pablo Neruda, translated by Jack Schmit
Jack Schmitt, copyt, copyright © 1991 by the Fundacright © 1991 by the Fundación Pablo Nerión Pablo Neruda. Puda. Publisheublished by thed by the University of California Press. Reprinted by permission.
University of California Press. Reprinted by permission. Library of Congress
Cataloging-Library of Congress Cataloging-in-in-Publication DataPublication Data Cohen, Rich.
Cohen, Rich. Te
Te �sh �sh that that ate ate the the whale whale : : the the life life and and times times of of AmericAmerica’s a’s banana banana king king // Rich Cohen. — 1st ed.
Rich Cohen. — 1st ed. p.
p. cm.cm. Includes
Includes bibliographical bibliographical references.references. ISBN
ISBN 978-978-0-0-374-374-29927-29927-9 (alk. paper)9 (alk. paper) 1.
1. ZemurZemurray, ray, SamuelSamuel, , 18771877––1961961. 1. 2. 2. JewisJewish h businbusinesspeesspeople—ople—Louisiana—Louisiana— New
New Orleans—Orleans—Biography. Biography. 3. 3. Banana Banana trade—trade—Louisiana—New Orleans—Louisiana—New Orleans— Histor
History. y. 4. 4. United United Fruit Fruit Company—Company—Biography. Biography. I. I. itle.itle. HD9259.B2 HD9259.B2 Z463 Z463 20122012 338.7'634772092—dc23 338.7'634772092—dc23 [B [B]] 2011041207 2011041207 Designed by Abby Kagan
Designed by Abby Kagan www
www.fsgbooks.fsgbooks.com.com
1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2
Frontispiece: Photograph of Samuel Zemurray reprinted by permi
Frontispiece: Photograph of Samuel Zemurray reprinted by permission ofssion of Eliot Elisofon / ime & Life Pictures / Getty
Sam Zemurray saw his �rst banana in 1893. In the lore, this is Sam Zemurray saw his �rst banana in 1893. In the lore, this is pre-sented as a moment o clarity, wherein the uture was revealed. In some sented as a moment o clarity, wherein the uture was revealed. In some versio
versions, the origins, the original bananal banana is presented as a plana is presented as a platonic ideal, an arche-tonic ideal, an arche-ty
type circling the young man’pe circling the young man’s head. It is seen s head. It is seen rom a great distance, thenrom a great distance, then very close, each reckle magni
very close, each reckle magni�ed. As it was his �rst banana, I imagine�ed. As it was his �rst banana, I imagine it situated on a velvet pillow, in a display alongside Adam’s rib and it situated on a velvet pillow, in a display alongside Adam’s rib and Robert Johnson’s guitar. Tere is much variation in the telling o this Robert Johnson’s guitar. Tere is much variation in the telling o this story
story, meaning each exper, meaning each expert has wt has written his or her own history; meanritten his or her own history; meaninging the story has gone rom reportage to mythology; meaning Sam the the story has gone rom reportage to mythology; meaning Sam the Banana Man is Paul Bunyan and the �rst banana is Babe the Blue Ox. Banana Man is Paul Bunyan and the �rst banana is Babe the Blue Ox. In some ve
In some versiorsions, Sam sees the banans, Sam sees the banana in the gutter in Selma, Ana in the gutter in Selma, Alabama,labama, where it’
where it’s als allen rom a pushcarlen rom a pushcart; in some, he sees it it; in some, he sees it in the wn the window oindow o a grocery and is smitten. He ru
a grocery and is smitten. He rushes inside, grabs the ownshes inside, grabs the owner by the lapel,er by the lapel, and makes him tell everything he knows. In some, he sees it amid a and makes him tell everything he knows. In some, he sees it amid a pile o bananas on the deck o a ship plying the Alabama R
pile o bananas on the deck o a ship plying the Alabama River oiver on a lazn a lazyy summer afernoon.
summer afernoon.
Te most likely version has Sam seeing that �rst banana in the Te most likely version has Sam seeing that �rst banana in the wares o a peddler in the alley behind his uncle’s store in Selma. Te wares o a peddler in the alley behind his uncle’s store in Selma. Te American banana trade had begun twenty years beore, but it was still American banana trade had begun twenty years beore, but it was still embryonic. Few people had ever seen a banana. I they were spoken o embryonic. Few people had ever seen a banana. I they were spoken o at all, it was as an oddity, the way a person might speak o an Arican at all, it was as an oddity, the way a person might speak o an Arican cucumber today. In this version, Sam peppers the salesman with cucumber today. In this version, Sam peppers the salesman with ques-tions: What is it? Where did you get it? How much does it cost? How tions: What is it? Where did you get it? How much does it cost? How ast do they sell? What do you do with the peel? What kind o money ast do they sell? What do you do with the peel? What kind o money can you make? But none o the stories mentions a crucial detail: did can you make? But none o the stories mentions a crucial detail: did
1
1
Selma
12
12 •• The Fish The Fish That That Ate Ate the the WhaleWhale
Zemurray taste that �rst banana? I like to imagine him peeling it, Zemurray taste that �rst banana? I like to imagine him peeling it, eat-ing the ruit in three bites, then tosseat-ing the skin into the street the way ing the ruit in three bites, then tossing the skin into the street the way people did back then. ossing it and saying, “Wonderul.” In uture people did back then. ossing it and saying, “Wonderul.” In uture years, Zemurray always spoke o his product the way people speak o years, Zemurray always spoke o his product the way people speak o things they truly love, as something antastical, in part because it’s not things they truly love, as something antastical, in part because it’s not entirely necessary. When he mentioned the nutritional value o entirely necessary. When he mentioned the nutritional value o ba-nanas i
nanas in intervn interviews, he added, “iews, he added, “And o course it’And o course it’s delicious.” Putting uss delicious.” Putting us at a urther remove rom Zemurray is the act that the kind o banana at a urther remove rom Zemurray is the act that the kind o banana he saw in Selma in 1893, the banana that made his ortune, the variety he saw in Selma in 1893, the banana that made his ortune, the variety known as the Big Mike, went extinct in the 1960s.
known as the Big Mike, went extinct in the 1960s.
Sam Zemurray was born in 1877, in the region o western Rus Sam Zemurray was born in 1877, in the region o western Russiasia once known as
once known as Bessarabia. Bessarabia. It’It’s Moldavia today. He grew up on a wheats Moldavia today. He grew up on a wheat arm, in a �at country ringed by hills. His ather died young, leaving arm, in a �at country ringed by hills. His ather died young, leaving the amily beref, without prospects. Sam traveled to America with his the amily beref, without prospects. Sam traveled to America with his aunt in 1892. He was to establish himsel and send or the others— aunt in 1892. He was to establish himsel and send or the others— mother, siblings. He landed in New York, then continued to Selma, mother, siblings. He landed in New York, then continued to Selma, Alabama, where his uncle owned a store.
Alabama, where his uncle owned a store.
He was ourteen or �feen, but you would guess him much older. He was ourteen or �feen, but you would guess him much older. Te imm
Te immigrants o thigrants o that era could not afforat era could not afford to be childd to be children. Tey had toren. Tey had to struggle every minute o every day. By sixteen, he was as hardened as struggle every minute o every day. By sixteen, he was as hardened as the men in Walker Evans’s photos, a tough operator, a
dead-the men in Walker Evans’s photos, a tough operator, a dead-end kid,end kid, coolly �g
coolly �guriuring angles: Wng angles: Where’here’s the play? What’s in it os the play? What’s in it or me? His humorr me? His humor was black, his explanations ew. He was driven by the same raw energy was black, his explanations ew. He was driven by the same raw energy that has always attracted the most ambitious to America, then pushed that has always attracted the most ambitious to America, then pushed them to t
them to the head o the crowd. Grasperhe head o the crowd. Grasper, cli, climber—mber—nasty ways o describ-nasty ways o describ-ing th
ing this kid, who wants what you take or granted. From his �rst monthsis kid, who wants what you take or granted. From his �rst months in America, he was scheming, looking or a way to get ahead. You did not in America, he was scheming, looking or a way to get ahead. You did not need to be a Rocke
need to be a Rockeeleller to know the basics o the dream: Start at theler to know the basics o the dream: Start at the bottom, �ght your way to t
bottom, �ght your way to the top.he top.
Over time, Sam would develop a philosophy best expressed in a Over time, Sam would develop a philosophy best expressed in a handul o phrases:
handul o phrases: You’re there, we’re hereYou’re there, we’re here;; Go see for yourself Go see for yourself ;; Don’tDon’t trust the report
trust the report .. Tough im
Tough immensely complicated, he was, in a undamental way,mensely complicated, he was, in a undamental way, simple, earthy. He believed in staying close to the action—
simple, earthy. He believed in staying close to the action—in the �eldsin the �elds with the workers, in the dives with the banana cowboys. You drink with the workers, in the dives with the banana cowboys. You drink with a man, you learn what he knows. (“Tere is no problem you can’t with a man, you learn what he knows. (“Tere is no problem you can’t solve i you understand your business rom A to Z,” he said later.) In a solve i you understand your business rom A to Z,” he said later.) In a
Selma
Selma •• 1313
amous exchange, when challenged by a rival who claimed he could amous exchange, when challenged by a rival who claimed he could not understand Zemurray’s accent, Zemurray said, “You’re �red. Can not understand Zemurray’s accent, Zemurray said, “You’re �red. Can you understand that?”
you understand that?”
Selma, Alabama, was the perect spot or a kid like Sam: an Selma, Alabama, was the perect spot or a kid like Sam: an incuba-tor, a starter town, picturesque yet aded, grand but still small enough tor, a starter town, picturesque yet aded, grand but still small enough to memorize. A manuacturing center in the time o the Conederacy, to memorize. A manuacturing center in the time o the Conederacy, it had since been allowed to dilapidate. Tere was a main street, a ruit it had since been allowed to dilapidate. Tere was a main street, a ruit market, a butcher shop, a candy store, a theater with plush seats, a city market, a butcher shop, a candy store, a theater with plush seats, a city hall, churches. Tere were brick houses with curtains in the windows hall, churches. Tere were brick houses with curtains in the windows and swings on the porches—
and swings on the porches—the white side o town. Tere were shot-the white side o town. Tere were shot-gun shacks, blue and yellow and red, ronted by weedy yards— gun shacks, blue and yellow and red, ronted by weedy yards—thethe Negro side o town. Tere were taverns and houses o worship where Negro side o town. Tere were taverns and houses o worship where Christian gospel was mixed with Arican voodoo. Tere were banks, Christian gospel was mixed with Arican voodoo. Tere were banks, savings and loans, raternal orders. Tere was a commercial district, savings and loans, raternal orders. Tere was a commercial district, where every store was �lled with unduly optimistic businessmen.
where every store was �lled with unduly optimistic businessmen.
Tough the biography o Zemurray’s uncle has been orgotten, we Tough the biography o Zemurray’s uncle has been orgotten, we can take
can take him as a him as a stand-stand-in or the generation o poor grandatin or the generation o poor grandathers whohers who came �rst, who worked and worked and got nothing but a place o came �rst, who worked and worked and got nothing but a place o hono
honor in the ar in the amily photo in returmily photo in return. Sometimes descrn. Sometimes described as a grocery,ibed as a grocery, sometimes as a general store, his shop was precisely the sort that sometimes as a general store, his shop was precisely the sort that Jew-ish immigrants had been establJew-ishing across the South or �fy years. ish immigrants had been establishing across the South or �fy years. Such concerns were usually operated by men who came to America Such concerns were usually operated by men who came to America because they were the youn
because they were the youngest o many brothers, without property orgest o many brothers, without property or plans. Tese p
plans. Tese people weneople went south because, t south because, in the ein the early days o the Amer-arly days o the Amer-ican republic, it was not inhospitable to Hebrews. Many began as ican republic, it was not inhospitable to Hebrews. Many began as ped-dlers, crossing the country with a mountain o merchandise strapped dlers, crossing the country with a mountain o merchandise strapped to their backs. You see them in ancient silver prints and to their backs. You see them in ancient silver prints and daguerreo-types, weathered men humping hal the world on their shoulders, types, weathered men humping hal the world on their shoulders, pushing the other hal in a cart—
pushing the other hal in a cart—bags o grain, dinnerware, tinware,bags o grain, dinnerware, tinware, lamps, clothes, canvas or tents, chocolate, anything an isolated armer lamps, clothes, canvas or tents, chocolate, anything an isolated armer might want but could not �nd in the sticks.
might want but could not �nd in the sticks.
When they had saved some money, many o these men opened When they had saved some money, many o these men opened stores, which meant moving all that merchandise under a roo in a stores, which meant moving all that merchandise under a roo in a town along their route. Even now, as you drive across the South, you town along their route. Even now, as you drive across the South, you will see their remnants baked into the soil like ossils: an ancient will see their remnants baked into the soil like ossils: an ancient ve-randa, a ghost sign blistered rom years o rain—������� � ����, randa, a ghost sign blistered rom years o rain—������� � ����, ���� �� ��� ����� ����. Tese men were careul to open no more ���� �� ��� ����� ����. Tese men were careul to open no more
14
14 •• The Fish The Fish That That Ate Ate the the WhaleWhale
than one store per town, partly because who needs the competition, than one store per town, partly because who needs the competition, partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o atten-tion. Tey stocked everything. What they did not stock, they could tion. Tey stocked everything. What they did not stock, they could order
order. Te most successu. Te most successul grew into great departl grew into great department stoment stores: S. A. Sres: S. A. Shorehore in Winchester, Alabama, ounded by
Russian-in WRussian-inchester, Alabama, ounded by Russian-born Solomon Shore,born Solomon Shore, ather o Dinah; E. Lewis & Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville, North ather o Dinah; E. Lewis & Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville, North Carolina, ounded by
Polish-Carolina, ounded by Polish-born Edward Lewis; Capitol Departmentborn Edward Lewis; Capitol Department Store in Fayetteville, North Carolina, ounded by the Rus
Store in Fayetteville, North Carolina, ounded by the Russian Steinsian Stein brothers. Others, having started by extending credit to customers, brothers. Others, having started by extending credit to customers, evolved into America’s �rst investment banks. Lehman Brothers, evolved into America’s �rst investment banks. Lehman Brothers, ounded by Henry Lehman, a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria, began ounded by Henry Lehman, a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria, began as a dry goods store in Montgomery, Alabama, in 1844. Lazard Frères, as a dry goods store in Montgomery, Alabama, in 1844. Lazard Frères, ounded by three Jewish brothers rom France, began as a wholesale ounded by three Jewish brothers rom France, began as a wholesale business in
business in New Orleans in 1848. Te sNew Orleans in 1848. Te store otore owned by Zemurwned by Zemurray’ray’s uncles uncle was probably o this variety: having begun as a young man carry was probably o this variety: having begun as a young man carryinging merchandise, it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street.
merchandise, it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street. Selma closed early. By ten p
Selma closed early. By ten p.m., the bust.m., the bustling o the maling o the marketplace hadrketplace had given way to the swamp stink and cicadas, but there was always action given way to the swamp stink and cicadas, but there was always action or those who knew where to look: in the private clubs where or those who knew where to look: in the private clubs where mer-chants played aro and stud, in the juke joints that stayed open rom chants played aro and stud, in the juke joints that stayed open rom can till can’t. According to those who knew him, Sam did not care or can till can’t. According to those who knew him, Sam did not care or crowds and parties. He had a restless mind and a per
crowds and parties. He had a restless mind and a persissistent need to gettent need to get outdoors. He liked to be alone. You might see him wandering beneath outdoors. He liked to be alone. You might see him wandering beneath the la
the lamps o town, a tough, lean young man imps o town, a tough, lean young man in an overcoat, hands bur-n an overcoat, hands bur-ied deep in his pockets.
ied deep in his pockets. He stacked shelves and
He stacked shelves and checked inventchecked inventory iory in his n his uncle’uncle’s store. Nows store. Now and then, he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample cases. and then, he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample cases. He stood in the alley, amid the garbage cans and cats, asking about He stood in the alley, amid the garbage cans and cats, asking about suppliers and costs. Tere was money to be made, but not here. He suppliers and costs. Tere was money to be made, but not here. He in-terrogated customers. He was looking or different work and wo
terrogated customers. He was looking or different work and would truld tryy anything, i only or experience. His early lie was a series o anything, i only or experience. His early lie was a series o adven-tures, with odd job leading to odd job. Much o the color that would tures, with odd job leading to odd job. Much o the color that would later entertain magazine writers—
later entertain magazine writers—Sam’s lie had the dimensions o aSam’s lie had the dimensions o a airy tale—
airy tale—were accumulated in his �rst ew years in Selma.were accumulated in his �rst ew years in Selma. He worked as a t
He worked as a tin merchant. Well, that’s how it would be descrin merchant. Well, that’s how it would be describedibed in the press. “Young Sam Z. bartered iron or livestock, chickens and in the press. “Young Sam Z. bartered iron or livestock, chickens and pigs.” According to newspaper and magazine accounts, he was in act pigs.” According to newspaper and magazine accounts, he was in act
Selma
Selma •• 1515
employed by a struggling
old-employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant thantimer who was less tin merchant than peddler, the last o a vanishing breed, the country cheapjack in a peddler, the last o a vanishing breed, the country cheapjack in a tat-tered coat, shari
tered coat, sharing a piece o chocolate with tng a piece o chocolate with the boyhe boy. Now and then, he. Now and then, he might offer some wisdom.
might offer some wisdom. Banks fail, women leave, but land lastsBanks fail, women leave, but land lasts forever.
forever. He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma, searching or dis- He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma, searching or dis-carded scraps o sheet metal, the
cast-carded scraps o sheet metal, the cast-off junk o the industrial age,off junk o the industrial age, which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm, looking or which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm, looking or trades—
trades—wire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks inwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in the pen. Afer t
the pen. Afer the parthe particulars were agreed on, Sam was told to get moviculars were agreed on, Sam was told to get mov- -ing,
ing, Catch and tie that animal, boy.Catch and tie that animal, boy. It was Zemurray’s �rst real job: It was Zemurray’s �rst real job: racing through the slop with a rope in his hand. “In those days,” he racing through the slop with a rope in his hand. “In those days,” he told a reporter rom
told a reporter rom LifeLife, “I could outrun , “I could outrun any pig in Dixany pig in Dixie.ie.” Paid a dol-” Paid a dol-lar a week, he kept t
lar a week, he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather behe job just long enough to know he would rather be the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk, and the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk, and would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man who owned the hog.
who owned the hog.
A series o jobs ollowed, tried on and thrown off like
thrif-A series o jobs ollowed, tried on and thrown off like thrif-storestore suits. He was a house
suits. He was a housecleaner and a delivercleaner and a delivery boyy boy. He tur. He turned a lathe or aned a lathe or a carpenter. By eigh
carpenter. By eighteen, he had saved enough to send or his brothersteen, he had saved enough to send or his brothers and sisters, hal
and sisters, hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in the last years o the nineteenth century.
the last years o the nineteenth century.
But his real lie began only when he saw that �rst banana. He But his real lie began only when he saw that �rst banana. He de- vised a plan soon
vised a plan soon afer: he woafer: he would travel to uld travel to Mobile, whMobile, where the ruit boatsere the ruit boats arrived rom Central America, purchase a supply o his own, carry arrived rom Central America, purchase a supply o his own, carry them back to Selma, and go into business.
Zemurray took his money and went south. Wisteria bloomed along the Zemurray took his money and went south. Wisteria bloomed along the railroad tracks. owns drifed by. He could smell the ocean beore he railroad tracks. owns drifed by. He could smell the ocean beore he could see it. He was like a kid on the rontier, who, a day afer the could see it. He was like a kid on the rontier, who, a day afer the har- vest, olds his savings i
vest, olds his savings into a ronto a roll and goes to trll and goes to try his luck in town.y his luck in town. Mob
Mobile was a seedy indile was a seedy industrial port �lled with austrial port �lled with all the amill the amiliar tyliar types:pes: the sharpie, the �nancier, the scoundrel, the chucklehead, the sport. the sharpie, the �nancier, the scoundrel, the chucklehead, the sport. Sam was a bit o everything. He could be shrewd, but he could also be Sam was a bit o everything. He could be shrewd, but he could also be naïve. He was greedy or inormation. He took a room in a seamen’s naïve. He was greedy or inormation. He took a room in a seamen’s hotel near the port. Te waterron
hotel near the port. Te waterront was crossed by train tt was crossed by train tracks—racks—dozensdozens o lines converged here. Boxcars crammed with coal, ruit, cotton, and o lines converged here. Boxcars crammed with coal, ruit, cotton, and cane stood on the sidings. Te ra
cane stood on the sidings. Te railroad conductorilroad conductors were the aristocratss were the aristocrats o the scene. Tey dran
o the scene. Tey drank coffee in the statk coffee in the station hoion house, smug in tuse, smug in their check-heir check-ered caps. Te docks were crowded with stevedores, most o them ered caps. Te docks were crowded with stevedores, most o them immigrants rom Sicily. Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers, immigrants rom Sicily. Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers, most o them Jewish imm
most o them Jewish immigrants igrants rom Prom Poland and Rusoland and Russia. Tey boughtsia. Tey bought merchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets merchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets o Mobile.
o Mobile. One eve
One evening, Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruitning, Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit banana boat sail into the harbor. Te Boston Fruit Company, which banana boat sail into the harbor. Te Boston Fruit Company, which would become United Fruit, dominated the trade, with a �eet that would become United Fruit, dominated the trade, with a �eet that car-ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston, Charleston, New Orleans, and ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston, Charleston, New Orleans, and Mobile. Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made Mobile. Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made the trip to the Gul ports, a cutter with sails and engine. Te unnel the trip to the Gul ports, a cutter with sails and engine. Te unnel sent up black smoke. Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders sent up black smoke. Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders who appeared, as i
who appeared, as i out o nowher out o nowhere, whenever a ship lae, whenever a ship landed. As soon asnded. As soon as
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18 •• The Fish The Fish That Ate That Ate the Whalethe Whale
the boat was anchored, these men swarmed across the deck, ants on a the boat was anchored, these men swarmed across the deck, ants on a sugar pile, working in or
sugar pile, working in orgaganized teams.nized teams.
In the South, in the days beore mechanical equipment, bananas In the South, in the days beore mechanical equipment, bananas were unloaded by hand, the workers carry
were unloaded by hand, the workers carrying the cargo a stem at aing the cargo a stem at a time—
time—rom the hold, where the shipment was packed in ice, onto therom the hold, where the shipment was packed in ice, onto the deck o the ship. A banana stem is the ruit o an entire tree—
deck o the ship. A banana stem is the ruit o an entire tree—a hun-a hun-dred pounds or more. Each stem holds perhaps a hunhun-dred bunches; dred pounds or more. Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches; each bunch holds perhaps nine hands; each hand holds perhaps �feen each bunch holds perhaps nine hands; each hand holds perhaps �feen �ngers—
�ngers—a �nger being a single banana. It was backbreaking work, anda �nger being a single banana. It was backbreaking work, and dangerous, not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central dangerous, not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central ner
ner vous system. vous system. As aAs any banana ny banana cowboy would tell cowboy would tell you, banana you, banana plantsplants are prized nesting places or scorpions. When the stems are cut down, are prized nesting places or scorpions. When the stems are cut down, the killers go along or the ride, rom the banana plantation to the the killers go along or the ride, rom the banana plantation to the jungle ra
jungle railroad, to ilroad, to the whathe whar, to tr, to the ship, across the ship, across the Gulhe Gul to Mobile, or to Mobile, or New Orleans, or Boston, wh
New Orleans, or Boston, where they spring out, stiere they spring out, stinging tnging the �rst steve-he �rst steve-dore they happen upon.
dore they happen upon.
Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo. Early last in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo. Early last century, newspaper reporters looking or local
century, newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote aboutcolor ofen wrote about these hired hands, painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel these hired hands, painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel blue. Tey
blue. Tey described dark skin, big lips, grindescribed dark skin, big lips, grinning aces, heavy haunches,ning aces, heavy haunches, their shirts as white as their eyes, lifing and hauling, working as one their shirts as white as their eyes, lifing and hauling, working as one man. Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight, moving like man. Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight, moving like shad-ows along the docks, docile, con
ows along the docks, docile, content, occasionally breakitent, occasionally breaking into hymnsng into hymns and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers. and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers. “Most o them are Jama
“Most o them are Jamaican negroes,” Frederick Upican negroes,” Frederick Upham Adamham Adams wrotes wrote in
in Conquest of the ropicsConquest of the ropics, “black as the ace o spades and care-, “black as the ace o spades and care-ree asree as the birds who sing in t
the birds who sing in the adjacenhe adjacent park. Fat negro ‘mammies’ trt park. Fat negro ‘mammies’ trudge inudge in with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the negro taste. . . . Powerul clusters o electric lights �ash out in the vast negro taste. . . . Powerul clusters o electric lights �ash out in the vast covered shed which protects the docks, and the myriad lights o the covered shed which protects the docks, and the myriad lights o the ship add their
ship add their glow to the general effect.”glow to the general effect.”
Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp, and across the pier to snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp, and across the pier to the waiting boxcars. (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade.) the waiting boxcars. (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade.) Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door
Ripes
Ripes •• 1919
o the trai
o the train, where an agent rom the comn, where an agent rom the company examipany examined it oned it or bruises,r bruises, reckles, color. I the stem passed muster, it was loaded into the car, reckles, color. I the stem passed muster, it was loaded into the car, which was air cooled and straw �lled. When the car was ull, the door which was air cooled and straw �lled. When the car was ull, the door was swung shut and locked. An empty car was rolled into its place. was swung shut and locked. An empty car was rolled into its place. Tis continued or hours—
Tis continued or hours—a shif might run rom three p.m. untila shif might run rom three p.m. until midnight. When a train was packed, the switchman signaled and the midnight. When a train was packed, the switchman signaled and the cargo was carried across the South.
cargo was carried across the South.
Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o the yard, where they were urther divided. Some were designated as the yard, where they were urther divided. Some were designated as turnings, meaning they were on their way to being worthless. At the turnings, meaning they were on their way to being worthless. At the end o the day, they were sold at a discount to store own
end o the day, they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-ers and ped-dlers. You could see them, with their carts piled high, trundling through dlers. You could see them, with their carts piled high, trundling through the streets, calling, “Bananas, bananas or sale! A nickel a bunch! Yes, the streets, calling, “Bananas, bananas or sale! A nickel a bunch! Yes, we have bananas, we have bananas or sale!”
we have bananas, we have bananas or sale!”
Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were designated “ripes” and heaped in a sad pile. A ripe is a ba
designated “ripes” and heaped in a sad pile. A ripe is a banana you havenana you have lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy. Tese lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy. Tese ba-nanas, though still good to eat, delicious even, would never make it to nanas, though still good to eat, delicious even, would never make it to the market in time. In less than a week, they would begin to sofen and the market in time. In less than a week, they would begin to sofen and stink. As ar as the merchants were concerned, they were trash. When stink. As ar as the merchants were concerned, they were trash. When de�ning a ripe, Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard: one reckle, de�ning a ripe, Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard: one reckle, turning; t
turning; two reckles, ripe.wo reckles, ripe. Sam noticed everything—
Sam noticed everything—the care with which the bananas werethe care with which the bananas were handled, the way each boxcar was �lled and rolled to a siding, how handled, the way each boxcar was �lled and rolled to a siding, how men rom the banana company, college men, moved through the men rom the banana company, college men, moved through the crowd barking orders—
crowd barking orders—but paid special attention to the growing pilebut paid special attention to the growing pile o ripes. Anything can cause a banana to ripen early. I you squeeze a o ripes. Anything can cause a banana to ripen early. I you squeeze a green banana, it will turn in days instead o weeks; ditto i it’s nicked, green banana, it will turn in days instead o weeks; ditto i it’s nicked, dented, or banged. A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen, dented, or banged. A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen, and those will cause still others to ripen, until an entire boxcar is and those will cause still others to ripen, until an entire boxcar is ru-ined. Beore rerigeration was perected, as much as 15 percent o an ined. Beore rerigeration was perected, as much as 15 percent o an average cargo ended up in the ripe pile.
average cargo ended up in the ripe pile.
Sam grew �xated on ripes, recognizing a product where others had Sam grew �xated on ripes, recognizing a product where others had seen only trash. It was the worldview o the immigrant: understanding seen only trash. It was the worldview o the immigrant: understanding how
so-how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name, seeingcalled garbage might be valued under a different name, seeing nutrition where others saw only waste. He was the son o a Rus nutrition where others saw only waste. He was the son o a Russiansian
20
20 •• The Fish The Fish That Ate That Ate the Whalethe Whale
armer, or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a armer, or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a reckled banana seem precious.
reckled banana seem precious.
Afer the ship had been unloaded, afer the trains had carried off Afer the ship had been unloaded, afer the trains had carried off the green bananas, afer the merchants and peddlers had taken away the green bananas, afer the merchants and peddlers had taken away the turnings, Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company the turnings, Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company agent. Tey spoke as the sun went down, the man with the Ivy League agent. Tey spoke as the sun went down, the man with the Ivy League elocution and the kid with the Rus
elocution and the kid with the Russian accent, who rolled hissian accent, who rolled his r r ’s and’s and spit his vowels. Zemurray had $150. Tat was his stake. He �gured it spit his vowels. Zemurray had $150. Tat was his stake. He �gured it would go urt
would go urther i it was spent on ripes. He was no ool. He knew whather i it was spent on ripes. He was no ool. He knew what this meant—
this meant—that he would have to move ast, that he was entering athat he would have to move ast, that he was entering a race with t
race with the clock. Tree days, �ve at he clock. Tree days, �ve at the most. Afer tthe most. Afer that, he wohat, he would beuld be lef with a pile o glue. But he believed he could make it. As ar as he lef with a pile o glue. But he believed he could make it. As ar as he was concerned, ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit was concerned, ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit and simi
and similar �rlar �rms were too slowms were too slow--ooted to cover ground. It was a caooted to cover ground. It was a calcu- lcu-lation based on arrogance. I can be ast where others have been slow. lation based on arrogance. I can be ast where others have been slow. I can hustle where others have been satis�ed with the easy pickings o I can hustle where others have been satis�ed with the easy pickings o the trade.
the trade.
Zemurray’s �rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas
Zemurray’s �rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas. He did. He did not spend all his money but retained a small balance, which he used not spend all his money but retained a small balance, which he used to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central. Te trip to Selma was to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central. Te trip to Selma was scheduled to take three days, meaning he would have just enough time scheduled to take three days, meaning he would have just enough time to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst. In most cases, a to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst. In most cases, a ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose, ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose, but since the reight charge used the last o his money, Zemurray but since the reight charge used the last o his money, Zemurray trav-eled in the boxcar with his bananas, t
eled in the boxcar with his bananas, the doohe door open, the counr open, the country dtry drifingrifing by
by. It seems appropriate: Zemurray sleeping be. It seems appropriate: Zemurray sleeping beside his �rst hauside his �rst haul, attend-l, attend-ing to his product like a baby in a nursery.
ing to his product like a baby in a nursery.
Te train lef on a uesday morning, say, the sun �ery above the Te train lef on a uesday morning, say, the sun �ery above the smoky reight-yard dawn, the clank o wheels over switches, the ocean smoky reight-yard dawn, the clank o wheels over switches, the ocean drifing away. Color and country: blue in the morning, green at drifing away. Color and country: blue in the morning, green at mid-day
day, red in , red in the evethe evening. Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway. Te trainning. Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway. Te train traveled maddeningly, inuriatingly, exceedingly slow. In the country, traveled maddeningly, inuriatingly, exceedingly slow. In the country, it went the speed o a trotting mule. In the towns, it was no aster than it went the speed o a trotting mule. In the towns, it was no aster than a man wa
a man walkilking. In tng. In the cities, it stoppehe cities, it stopped altogetherd altogether, sometimes or hours,, sometimes or hours, waiting or cargo and crew. Zemurray paced the railroad bed, hands waiting or cargo and crew. Zemurray paced the railroad bed, hands on his hips, muttering.
on his hips, muttering.
Stoplights. emporary holds. What was supposed to be three days Stoplights. emporary holds. What was supposed to be three days
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Ripes •• 2121
was turning into �ve, six. With each hour, the bananas became more was turning into �ve, six. With each hour, the bananas became more pungent. He spoke to t
pungent. He spoke to the conductohe conductorr, who commis, who commiserated, sayingerated, saying, “What, “What a terrible sha
a terrible shame.me.”” In a M
In a Mississipississippi train pi train yard, where the redbricyard, where the redbrick buildings, k buildings, eed stores,eed stores, and tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks, a brakeman, hearing Sam’s and tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks, a brakeman, hearing Sam’s story, said, “You’ve got good product there. I you could just get word story, said, “You’ve got good product there. I you could just get word ahead to the towns along the line, I’m sure the grocery own
ahead to the towns along the line, I’m sure the grocery owners woulders would meet you at the platorms and buy the ba
meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas rignanas right off the boxcars.”ht off the boxcars.” Dur
During ting the next he next delay, Zemurrdelay, Zemurray went into a Way went into a Westerestern Union offi n Union offi cece and spoke to a telegraph operator. Having no money, Sam offered a and spoke to a telegraph operator. Having no money, Sam offered a deal: i the man radioed every operator ahead, asking each o them deal: i the man radioed every operator ahead, asking each o them to spread the word to local merchants—
to spread the word to local merchants—dirt-dirt-cheap bananas comingcheap bananas coming through for merchants and peddlers
through for merchants and peddlers——Sam would share a percentage oSam would share a percentage o his sales. When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town, the his sales. When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town, the cus-tomers were waiting. Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door, tomers were waiting. Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door, a tower o ripes at his back.
a tower o ripes at his back. en for eight. Tirteen for ten.en for eight. Tirteen for ten. He broke off He broke off a bunch, put the money in his pocket. Te whi
a bunch, put the money in his pocket. Te whistle blew, the train rolledstle blew, the train rolled on. He sold the last banana in Selma, then went home in the dark. on. He sold the last banana in Selma, then went home in the dark. When he tallied his money, it came to $190. His �rst real success: afer When he tallied his money, it came to $190. His �rst real success: afer accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days.
accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days. Zemurray had stu
Zemurray had stumbled on a niche: ripes, overloombled on a niche: ripes, overlooked at the bottomked at the bottom o the trade. It was logistics. Cou
o the trade. It was logistics. Could he mold he move the product aster than tve the product aster than thehe product was ruined by time? Tis work was nothing but stress, the product was ruined by time? Tis work was nothing but stress, the margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills), but it was margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills), but it was a way in. Whereas t
a way in. Whereas the big ruhe big ruit companies monit companies monopolized topolized the upper pre-he upper pre-cincts o the industry—
cincts o the industry—you needed capital, railroads, and ships to op-you needed capital, railroads, and ships to op-erate in greens—
erate in greens—the world o ripes was wide open. Within a ew weeksthe world o ripes was wide open. Within a ew weeks o his return to Selma, Zemurray set out again, then again, then again. o his return to Selma, Zemurray set out again, then again, then again. It was in these months, on train platorms and in small towns, that It was in these months, on train platorms and in small towns, that Zemurray �rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man.