The content of this book is Copyright 2009 by Lazar Ovidiu and Laszlo agy, referred from now on as „the authors”. All rights reserved. o part of this document can be reproduced or retransmitted in any form by any means (electronic, e-mail, photocopying, audio recording etc.) without the express written permission by the authors.
The information contained in this book contains opinions of the authors and is
informative and educational. The authors do not take any responsibility for the results of applying the advice given in this book.
CONTENTS
Contents ...3
CHAPTER ONE: PERSONAL GROOMING ...5
BASIC ADVICE ABOUT PERSONAL GROOMING ... 6
TAKING CARE OF YOUR FACIAL SKIN ... 7
TAKING CARE OF YOUR HAIR ... 12
OTHER IDEAS FOR ENHANCING THE WAY YOU LOOK ... 17
CHAPTER TWO: CLOTHING ... 18
THE SHIRT ... 19 THE TIE... 24 THE SUIT ... 27 THE BLAZER ... 35 THE OVERCOAT ... 38 THE JACKET ... 42 THE SCARF ... 46 THE JEANS ... 49 BELTS ... 51 SOCKS ... 55 THE SHOES ... 61
TAKING CARE OF YOUR CLOTHES ... 72
MATCHING YOUR OUTFIT ... 75
THE SUNGLASSES... 80
THE WATCH ... 87
THE BRACELET ... 93
THE RING ... 95
13 TIPS FOR “INTELIGENT” SHOPPING ... 98
BONUS CHAPTER: ATTITUDE AND STYLE ... 102
HOW TO BECOME AN EXPERT IN STYLE ... 104
Do you remember how you were dressed on your first day of school? Most likely, you were carefully taken care of by your mother, who was even more excited by this event than you were. Even the smallest detail of your clothing mattered. After all, you HAD to make an impression among all those kids, right?
Did your parents take care of you when it came to clothing? The answer is most likely yes. As a parent, you want your child to be well dressed, to „not make a fool of myself as a parent out there”. Then I want him or her to study hard, to do his homework, be a good boy or girl, then find a nice job and get married. It seems like the road has already been paved for you, doesn’t it? Then why did you purchase this book?
Let me attempt to give an answer for you. You are reading this book because you want to shine in your own way, to be special and to express your personality. You want to be different… not a rebel - just different.
And to achieve that, you’re probably thinking that by making a lot of money you will make it. You will have everyone gravitate around you and then you’ll be done. You will fill fulfilled.
But you are constantly getting resistance from those around you. It seems like your ideas are not appreciated to their true value. People don’t seem to know how to listen; they always want to impose their ideas onto others and onto you as well. And the fact that they are right or not seems to make but little difference.
You look yourself in the mirror and ask: how can I make people listen to me? How can I communicate to them the fact that I have very interesting ideas and things to say? Moreover, how come some people have a certain charisma in them that makes everyone around them listen to everything they say as if they were hypnotized?
The answer is in your projected image. The way you look, take care of yourself and carry yourself , the way you smile the way you look at other people are of extreme importance if you want to gain an advantage in today’s society.
We consider what you wear to be a staple in today’s society. Until recently, men didn’t care too much about what they looked like – that was something women did. Things are changing right now. We should be concerned about their image just as much as they do! Read the book, try it and you will see the results.
I want to thank you and I want you to know I am extremely appreciative for being interested in this book. The things contained in it have made my life go one step further and I truly hope it will be your case as well. I know it sounds like a cliché but… a new journey is about to begin.
CHAPTER ONE: PERSONAL
GROOMING
Until recently, personal grooming for men consisted only of shaving. The only products that men bought were: shaving cream, soap and toothpaste. In time, once they started making more money, the companies that sold personal grooming products began to notice their concern for how they looked and started to develop product catalogs specifically for men.
Your body’s care is the first step towards becoming a stylish man. It’s not all in the clothes. The way you take care of your body says a lot. It says that you have self
confidence and respect, and that you are careful to details. Personal grooming is one of those things that we tend to skip in the morning. We barely wake up, think about the hard day of work that is about to come, wash our face quickly and we hurry to work or school, often times without having anything to eat!
People are superficial. This is not a mean affirmation, it is just a conclusion that I reached after reading a few books about human nature and social interaction, and after observing and taking part in real life experiences. Genetically speaking, we are not made to analyze other people in detail, unless we know them for a long time. We are, in
exchange, paying very much attention to what our sensors tell us about them – which is most of the times shallow information.
When we look at someone, we tend to analyze their face. In a fraction of a second, we look at the superficial elements he or she presents: if he is shaved, if he has a good haircut, if he has pimples or not. Keeping these factors into account, we tend to either make a positive or negative opinion about that person.
All my female friends have confirmed the fact that, no matter how unattractive a man is, if he has good personal hygiene, he WILL get their attention. The more negligent he is about himself (yellow teeth, uncut eyebrows etc.), the more his value drops in the eyes of the women.
In this chapter I will help you maximize the chances that you make a great first
impression. It must not be skipped. Great clothes will do nothing if you don’t take care of yourself. And, if you are serious about taking care of your body and do it regularly, these impressions will quickly turn to CERTAI TY.
BASIC ADVICE ABOUT PERSONAL GROOMING
Before we get into details, here are some of the things that you MUST regularly do:
• Take a shower each morning and after every sporting activity (jogging, going to the gym etc.). Also, take one each time before you go out.
• Take a bath at least once a week. Baths are very relaxing to the body while they also help you mentally. When you wash yourself, pay extra care to the areas of your body that sweat a lot (genital area, legs etc.). I don’t recommend very hot baths as they can affect your skin’s health in the long run. Nothing serious will happen if you take them but, in order to keep your skin in maximum shape, you should not expose it to extreme temperatures.
• Look yourself in the mirror in the morning, before you leave the house. Make sure your face is clean.
• Wash your hands regularly! Do it more often if they sweat a lot.
• Comb your hair every day. Take care of your eyebrows, nose hair and hair from the ears at least once a month. Trim your chest hair also once a month. If you want to look good in a bathing suit, consider trimming the hair on your feet. You don’t have to shave it like women do as it is too time consuming and, after all, a little hair on our feet makes us more masculine, right? Just don’t let it grow too big.
• Get rid of dandruff! Dandruff appears when some of the superficial layers of skin start to fall off. It is not contagious but many people have it. You can find a variety of anti-dandruff shampoos. If that doesn’t help, try the following tip each time you wash your hair: wash it really well, and then clear with fresh water. Then repeat the process. In my case, I noticed a reduction in dandruff from day 2.
TAKING CARE OF YOUR FACIAL SKIN
Men’s skin is with up to 30% thicker than that of women, reason for which it needs special attention to feeding its increased number of cells that constitute it. Plus, stress factors (written below) affect the men’s skin even more than women’s skin because of the fact that we were taught from an early age that cosmetics are for women only.
Perhaps the best advice I can give you regarding your skin is not to harm it. I know it sounds weird but it’s amazing how much the aging of the skin is influenced by external factors, and not by the aging process itself, as you might expect. Thus, the easiest and cheapest step you can take is to minimize those external risk factors.
Here are some of the most important ones:
• UV radiation. Exposing yourself daily to sun rays is necessary (you should spend at least 10-15 minutes a day outside). Still, this exposure must not be exaggerated, since statistics show 90% of the premature aging of skin is caused by
overexposure to the sun. Overexposure also increases the risk of skin cancer. To protect yourself from UV radiation, it is recommended that…
o … you stay in the shadow as much as possible on those hot summer days, while you are not protected by sun cream
o … you avoid exposing your face to sunrays for long periods of time. The less exposure the better.
o … you consume vitamin D – rich food, such as sardines, tuna, egg yolk, skim milk etc.
o … you wear sunglasses that offer both UVA and UVB protection. A small note here. If hats fit you well, please go with them, as excessive usage of sunglasses can damage your eyesight (especially if you wear them in dimly light rooms).
• … you don’t make too many facial expressions. Excessive repetition of a certain facial expression leads to wrinkles. A stylish man will appeal a lot more to women if he maintains a blank look on his face, anyway.
• … you avoid excessive usage of facial creams. In the following pages, you will find out in detail what facial products to apply every day, but if you overuse them, they will lose some of their effect. Use them carefully!
Daily skincare must follow three steps: cleansing, toning and hydrating + UV protection. Pollution, your work environment, the dirt in the air and even nutrition can affect your skin.
A gel or an exfoliating cream will eliminate dead cell skins, excess oil and dirt that accumulated inside the pores.
Toner gel strengthens the skin and helps maintaining the pH levels and to fight against bacteria. It is used after exfoliation and/or shaving.
The last step is skin hydration, which includes UV protection. It is necessary for maintaining the skin hydrated all day and all night, and to protect it from sun rays. What type of skin do I have?
The first step to skin care is to know your skin type. Here’s in short, a list of all of them: • Normal skin
This is the type of skin not too fat and not too dry, having small pores, without any red stains or pimples. Elasticity and hydration are perfect for this skin type. • Oily skin
Oily skin is characterized by an increased sebum excretion (the role of this substance is to protect the skin by acting as a barrier between it and the
environment). You will recognize this skin type by its dilated pores, sometimes full of dark spots, and by the fact that it tends to be shiny. This type of skin is the most likely one to have acne.
• Dry skin
This type lacks either fat, water or both. If the skin does not secrete enough sebum, it becomes sensitive to external factors. Wrinkles tend to be more
pronounced. Dry skin is usually very irritable, and rough on touch. This shouldn’t scare you, though. It is possible that, by following my advice, to get rid of the problems caused by your dry skin (the best piece of advice you need to remember is to start using a moisturizer ASAP). If my advice does not work, it means you have more than a superficial problem and you should visit a dermatologist. • Mixed skin
This type of skin is mostly found in women. The cheek area is soft and fragile, while the chin, forehead and nose tend to be oily (shiny).
• Sensitive skin
This type of skin tends to be very affected by most external factors, such as pollutants but also by after shaves. It also reacts negatively to seasonal change. If you have this type of skin, you probably feel it itch or sting during the day.
Facial creams
What you should use daily
• Exfoliating cream
Exfoliation is the process through which you remove dirt, dead skin cells, excessive oil and other pollutants, in order to leave room for “new” skin cells. It helps clearing the pores and reduces the risk of acne.
Choose a strong, acid based lotion if you have oily skin and a lotion if you have very dry skin. Most exfoliating creams are suitable for most skin types. If you feel your skin like it’s “shrinking” or irritated, it means that your facial cream removed too much of the natural protector oil. Thus, your skin will produce more oil to compensate for the lost quantity, having as a result a shiny skin during the afternoon, and even blocking of the pore. In this case, it is best to choose a better hydrating facial cream.
Usage: mix your exfoliating cream with warm water and apply it on your face and neck. After that, cleanse your hands with fresh warm water. Use it once in the morning and once in the evening, before you go to bed. You can also use it before shaving.
• Shaving foam / gel
It softens facial hair in order to be trimmed or shaved more easily. It lubricates and hydrates the skin. It creates a better surface for the razor when you shave, thus reducing skin irritation that may occur during shaving.
You must use a shaving cream or gel each and every time you shave, except when you use an electric razor or if you just want to trim your beard.
• Toner gels
They help clean the pores, remove remaining after the shaving process, protects the skin against bacteria and reduces it’s “shine”.
In order to use it, pour a few drops of it on a ball of cotton and apply on face and neck.
Use it once in the morning and once in the evening. Using it after shaving is not necessary if you already use a facial cream with a balanced pH.
• After-Shave
It restores your skin’s humidity after shaving and prevents it from getting irritated. Do not use it if your skin is easily irritated. Use an after-shave cream instead. Choose a liquid after-shave if you have oily or sensitive skin. Most after-shaves are suitable for most skin types.
• Hydrating cream
As their name suggests, hydrating creams are used to keep the skin hydrated. What they basically do is they slow down the rate at which the water in your skin evaporates. If you use it regularly, you will, in time, have a softer and cleaner skin. These creams also form a protective barrier against external factors. Apply it once in the morning, once in the evening and right after toning/shaving. This type of cream is not necessary if you have a very oily skin. It is best to ask your dermatologist, in this case, what product to use.
What else you might want to consider using (optional)
• Shaving oil for the electric razor
Shaving oil softens the facial hair to make it easier to trim. It thus creates a better skin surface for trimming with the electric razor, thus reducing irritation.
Use it by massaging your beard with a small quantity. Wait 30-60 seconds, after which you can start using the razor. Don’t forget to wash your hands after you applied the oil and before using the razor.
You don’t have to use this type of oil if your beard is very soft and your skin doesn’t get irritated after shaving.
Periodic usage
• Exfoliating gel (facial)
The exfoliating gen contains very small granules that remove dead skin cells. It helps opening your pores and reduces the probability of acne.
Use the tip of your fingers to spread the gel until it enters your skin completely (until you can’t feel the granules when massaging). Cleanse using warm water and dry using a clean towel.
Use it once a week, before hydrating, toning and shaving, and instead of your regular exfoliating cream. If you have skin problems (acne etc.), please ask your dermatologist before using it.
To sum up… In the morning:
Most people should exfoliate, then shave, tone, use after shave cream and lastly, hydrate. Those with oily skin should skip the last step, hydration.
In the evening:
In the evening, it is enough to use a little exfoliating cream, then to tone the skin. If you have normal or dry skin, you shouldn’t forget to hydrate at the end. If you have oily skin, please skip this last step.
TAKING CARE OF YOUR HAIR
Taking care of your hair is essential even if you don’t poses… too much. Nothing turns a woman off faster than a bad haircut. Shaving and facial hair grooming are also important for today’s modern man. We will talk about all of these in detail in what follows.
How to shave
You are a man so there's no way to escape shaving... Even those of you that have light-hair and you think your beard is invisible... it's not! Too many men see shaving as a painful and time-consuming process, but this is mainly due to their lack of technique if any.
Let's talk about regular shaving for a moment. Before you begin, observe the direction in which your hair grows on different areas of your face
and neck. As a rule, you must shave in the direction in which the hair grows. Usually, the beard grows downwards on your cheeks and upwards on your neck.
Firstly, either take a warm shower or use a wet towel on your face to moisture your beard and open up your pores. Do not use very hot water as it will dehydrate your skin. You can
use, however, an exfoliating cream or gel, before starting the actual shaving, to remove dead cells.
Apply the shaving cream in circular motions, making sure it stretches uniformly on the whole surface you want to shave. Don't use too much cream or foam as it can block your razor.
Let the cream or foam soak in for 30-60 seconds before you begin shaving the hair. Start shaving in the direction of hair growth. Use your other hand to stretch the skin for a closer shave. Shave your sideburns, cheeks and neck. Leave your chin and your mustache at the end.
In order to shave your mustache, stretch your upper lip over your upper teeth (for a closer shave). Remember to clean the razor blade after each cut in order to avoid it getting stuck and increase its lifetime. Gently tap the razor to the side of the sink to remove any
remainings.
When you are done, wash away using warm water the rest of the shaving cream or foam on your face. Make sure you didn't miss any areas.
After that, wash your face with warm water again and then dry it with a clean towel. Apply the after-shave. If you have an irritable skin, use an after-shave balm instead. Ideally, you should replace your blade every 4th or 5th usage.
An alternative to shaving using a razor is to use an electric razor (also known as an electric dry shaver). These have the disadvantage of not allowing a very close shave as razors do. Again, I recommend a shower or to wash your face with warm water before starting. Apply the special cream, and then wash your hands to prevent the cream entering the electric razor.
Now for the actual shaving: use it in the opposite direction of hair growth. If you have a rotary shaver, like the one on the right, use it with circular motions. After you finish, it is recommended that you first clean it, and then apply the special oil that came with the product when you purchased it. This will increase its life span and make sure it won’t rust.
Sideburns
of your hair. If you have short hair, keep your sideburns short. However, if you really want to stand out, short sideburns are usually not a very good choice.
Another factor to consider is the shape of your face. A longer face allows longer sideburns while a round one demands shorter ones.
To trim your sideburns, follow these steps:
1. Begin by combing them in the growth direction. 2. Use a razor or a special device to define their shape. 3. Comb them again, this time in the opposite direction.
4. Use a special device for trimming sideburns to trim their length.
5. Comb them in the hair growth direction and check yourself in the mirror to see if you like them.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with them.
Taking care of your eyebrows
Eyebrows are one of those things that pass unnoticed in the eyes of most men when it comes to facial grooming. Now, we all know that the face is the first thing someone sees when they look at another person, right?
The overall look of your face depends a lot on your eyebrows. Especially if the look bad! If you have thin eyebrows, you have two options. The more expensive one would be to go to the parlor and have them professionally waxed (this is a great idea if you want somebody more experienced to define their shape – after that, you just have to maintain that shape). The cheaper way (and the one I chose) was to use a trimming device (such as Remington’s NEDH2600). A friend of mine bought one as well and he’s very happy with it. Unfortunately, this device does not provide a very close trimming, so you will have to use tweezers. We will talk about this later.
Word of caution: do not, under any circumstances, use the shaving blade to trim your eyebrows! It can be very dangerous as it is very sharp, wide and not specifically designed for this.
Tip: if you have a unibrow, it MUST go away. ,othing is more unattractive than to have hair between your eyes.
Recent studies show that shaving does not cause the hair to grow faster and to become thicker. Even though it may seem thicker, this is only because, once they it has been trimmed once, the hair loses its elongated top and maintains its thickness all the way to the top.
Assuming you either don’t have thin eyebrows or that you’ve trimmed them, it’s time to talk about how to shape them. You can do this using tweezers.
Things to consider when starting:
• Wash your face with warm water before starting the plucking process. Hair will come out much more easily and with almost no pain at all. If you have the money you can purchase some tonic lotion on a ball of cotton (to keep the tweezers from slipping).
• Make sure you have very good lighting and a good mirror, preferably one that makes things look bigger.
• Pluck the hair in the direction in which it grows. This is very important. Not only you will encounter less resistance but the hair growth direction can reorient itself to the one you impose.
• For men, eyebrows must look great but also as natural as possible. If you shape them too well, you will be noticed (especially by women) and be catalogued as metro sexual or gay.
If your eyebrows look normal, grooming them won’t take long. All you have to do is pluck a few hairs, one hair at a time. Only those you consider they have grown outside the area that shapes the eyebrow.
To finish the process, you can use a special eyebrow crayon, but this is not necessary for most men.
As far as frequency is concerned, tweeze your eyebrows once a week, once every 10 days max.
Removing body hair
Whether you go to the beach often or not, removing the hair from areas where it doesn’t belong is crucial. We won’t talk about waxing because it’s complicated and... not necessary.
A body hair trimmer is more than enough. When buying one it is important to check if you can trim hair in the pubic area. If you purchased one that doesn’t allow you to do that, the alternative is a small nail tweezers that you won’t use anywhere else.
Let’s start the trimming process. The first area you need to trim is your armpits. If you find trimming your chest or legs is too much for you, you can start with this. Shaving your armpits is not only esthetic but it prevents sweating. We all know the armpit is one of the areas that sweats the most.
Tip: regardless of the area you want to trim, use your free hand to turn the hair in the opposite direction of growth, and then trim it in the opposite direction. Trimming in the direction of growth does not provide a quality result.
Back hair removal
Back hair can be a problem when it comes to removing it. I was reading the other day a study where 90% of women found back hair to be unattractive on men.
If you have a little, don’t worry. If you have a lot, it has to go. The easiest way is to go to a salon where you can have it waxed.
Taking care of your nails
Nails are by far the most ignored aspect of male grooming. And the funny thing is they take the least amount of time. If we add to this the fact that the hand is the part of the body that enters in contact the most with other people then... please read on.
Step one: keep them short. Try to keep them under 3mm. only cut the top and not on the sides, in order to prevent stinging.
Step two: use a nail file to shape the edges into the desired form.
Step three: cuticles. Cuticles are small folds of skin at the base of the nails. Most people don’t have any trouble with them, but if you are among the unlucky ones (in which case, you have dry skin) then you have to pay extra attention to them. Their role is not to let bacteria to enter the body. It is enough to keep them trimmed, using cuticle scissors. If, however, you want to take extra care of them, the next step would be to hydrate them, using special cuticle oil (make sure however, to tell the salesperson you’re actually buying this for your sister ☺ ).
If you have cuticle problems (if the area starts getting red, it is best NOT to cut them, but to push them back, like so: use a little cuticle oil to soak them for a few minutes. Then, use a cotton bowl to push them back. Only now can you cut the remaining dead skin. Don’t be embarrassed to give more time to your nails. In time, the advice given in this book will be followed by more and more men. Be among the first to benefit from them.
OTHER IDEAS FOR ENHANCING THE WAY YOU
LOOK
Here are a few more ideas on how to take great care of yourself. Some are common sense while others require a little more money. Here they are:
• Take care of your teeth. Follow the steps that I’ve followed. First of all, take care of all your cavities. Then, make sure you visit your dentist once or twice a year. If your teeth are not straight, you MUST ask your dentist what you can do about it. A great smile can help you tremendously.
• Eliminate acne, pimples and dark spots from your face. You’ve already gotten some good advice on how to take care of your face. Still, you may need some treatment if our advice does not work.
• Pick a haircut that suits you. Experience and see what works best for you, then see what facial hair works best for you. Look at guys on the street that have haircuts that you might like, or check out the Internet. Eventually, you will get lots of great ideas.
CHAPTER TWO: CLOTHING
This is probably the chapter you are most interested in. The subject of clothes is a very vast one, but I will try to simplify things as much as possible.
Getting your style in place is a process, but one that can be started right away. To make really sure you improve it, you have to be around your more stylish friends, to steal ideas from the celebrities’ outfits and to take notes with what you think may look good on you. Even if you don’t have any money to spend at the moment, you can still go to the mall and try some clothes. At the same time, you can start saving money to buy them, or buy cheaper clothes that look like the ones you tried.
THE SHIRT
The shirt is one of the elements of an outfit which clearly stands out. For this reason, we consider it needs special attention.
Before talking about colors and the way we can match shirts with the rest of the outfit, let’s theorize a little. The shirts’ cut can be classified (as the suits) as: slightly shaped, classic and regular.
Slightly shaped shirts for men are rare, so we won’t talk about them. We will focus our attention upon the classic and regular shirts.
The collar
The collar is one of the elements of a shirt to which you must pay attention when you buy it. Quality collars are wrinkle free. If you see that the shirt you want to buy has a
wrinkled collar, this is a sign that it will always remain wrinkled and in time it will deteriorate even more.
Another essential element is that piece of plastic that goes under the collar. It is detachable and you should remove it when you use the shirt for the first time. Quality shirts have something like that but poor quality shirts don’t have it.
Make sure the collar isn’t too tight. When you try it, it is important that you button up all the buttons. If you can put a finger between the buttoned shirt and your throat, the shirt won’t be too tight and it will suit you if it shrinks after the first washings.
When you choose a formal shirt, you have to check the collar’s width. If you make loose knots to your tie, it is natural for the collar to be larger to hold it (large means the distance between the ends of the collar – the red line in the image below).
Take into account the shape of your face and the length of your neck when you choose the collar. Choose a short collar for a short neck and longer collar points for a long neck. Let’s see what shape of a collar you choose depending on the shape of the face.
If you have a round face, don’t wear shirts with very wide collars, because they will put forward its roundness. It will be perfect to wear a tighter collar, with sharp ends, as in the image below. This will make your face look longer.
On the other hand, if you have an oval face, wear a wider collar.
The Sleeves
The length of the sleeves is an extremely important detail. A sleeve that is too long or too short will make you look ridiculous. But I’m sure that each of us tried a shirt that fitted us perfectly... except the sleeves. How can we explain that? Shirts tend to be intentionally made with long sleeves lately. I mean informal sleeves.
Try on the shirts you choose in front of the mirror and watch carefully every detail. Think about the jackets you will wear on top them; eventually try on the jacket and the shirt to be sure. If you chose a shirt with long sleeves, it may look ridiculous getting too much out of the jacket…
Formal shirts are worn most of all with coats and suits, so their length is restricted by those. Normally, when you choose a formal shirt, its sleeve must be 0.4 - 0.8 inches (1-2
cm) longer than that of the coat. In other words, you have to see 0.4 - 0.8 inches (1-2 cm) of the sleeve when you wear it with the coat on (you stand, with your hands resting at your sides).
Be stylish!
Let’s review some actually shirts that are in style.
Shirts with collar and short sleeve
A shirt with collar and short sleeves will definitely give you a classic look in informal situations. They are up to date and you can find them in a diversity of colors and models. If you have to choose between buying a shirt or a t-shirt, you should take the first one.
Striped shirts can bring a colorful spot in your wardrobe, especially when it comes to those boring formal outfits. If you match them with some quality ties success is
guaranteed. You will expose your personality even in the most formal meetings. Beware! Wearing both shirts and ties with pattern can be risky, so make sure the rest of your outfit is made only of solid colors, without other textures. If you’re not sure, the best thing is to give up to the tie with pattern for a solid color one.
And if you want to go out, in an informal context, it’s enough to remove your tie, to unbutton one or two buttons and to wear a blazer.
Military shirts
Military shirts are casual shirts with front pockets and epaulets on the shoulders.
They will definitely make you look more solid. If you are thin, you’d better have at least one in your wardrobe. It can be worn with both jeans and trousers.
Piece of advice: if you want to be stylish, try not to go for camouflage shirts, they are definitely not going to make you stand out. Do it if this style is really what fits you and you are 100% sure that it represents you.
What should I wear over my shirt? You can choose to wear over a formal shirt a pullover, a blazer or even a jacket. The most important thing here is to keep in mind that if you have a striped, cross-hatched or any other model of shirt what you wear over it should have no model. A pattern over another pattern will never work.
Should I wear the shirt in or out?
Most of the formal shirts are made to be worn in. When you wear a suit, the shirt must be worn in. When you are dressed more informal, you may choose how to wear it. Some people prefer to wear the shirt half in
(the front side in and the back side out). I advise you to try something like that only if you watch yourself in the mirror ten times before going out. This style doesn’t match most people. But if you come to the conclusion that it fits you, you should also choose a proper belt to bring it out.
Make sure your shirt isn’t too long if you want to wear it out. Casual shirts made to be worn this way are intentionally made shorter. If you want to wear an older shirt out and it is too long, take it to the tailor to shorten it.
How many buttons can I unbutton?
The upper button has to be left unbuttoned except the case when you are wearing a suit or a coat and a tie. When the situation is very informal (a walk on the beach in the summer, going out to a club), then you can unbutton another button or two. Make sure your chest hair isn’t visible. If it is, follow the instructions in the personal hygiene chapter to remove it.
Conclusion
Casual shirts are ideal when you’re sick of t-shirts. And if you are serious about your wardrobe, then you need at least two carefully chosen shirts.
Chose their colors according to your complexion: use brown, blue or beige for a light complexion; beige, blue or black for a medium complexion, and yellow and blue for a dark complexion.
The colors suggested above will be to your best advantage, but black and white are also a proper choice. You should try as many models and possible and ask for many opinions (feminine opinions preferably) before buying.
Remember that your outfit is more important than any individual piece therefore, a cool shirt will make no difference if it doesn’t suit your pants, your shoes and the rest of your accessories.
THE TIE
An element to which, although not neglected, is given a minor importance, is represented by the tie, maybe due to the fact that ties are being worn only at special occasions, when the presence of the suit is sufficient to bring us to light.
However, ties tell something about us. All we have to do is make sure they say the right thing.
You can adopt two styles when you want to buy a tie: a conservatory one or a more non-conformist one.
The conservatory style best matches formal dress. The ties worn are usually dark-colored (black, blue or gray), and they have to match the suit.
Vivid colored ties usually come to light. You may run your rigs when it comes to colors: good choices are the red ties, orange ties also. However, stay away of pink.
You can find a diversity of models (ties without model are called uni). If your working environment permits you, I advise you to wear distinguishable ties, but make sure they are made of silk.
How to tie a tie?
You can make various kinds of knots, maybe too many: simple knot, Windsor knot, Prince Albert knot, Shelby, Half Windsor, four-in-hand knot, etc. Let’s focus upon
making a Windsor knot. I think each person should know at least one type of knot, so I’ve chosen one of the most popular.
The Windsor knot
Place your tie as in the image above. The small end comes below and is a little bit shorter than the big end.
Bring the big end up through the loop, and then bring it back down.
Pull the big end underneath the small end, as in the adjacent image.
Bring the big end again back through the loop.
Now pull the big end once again through loop, bringing the big end down through the knot in front.
Tighten the knot carefully using both hands. And there you have it!
How to iron your tie
Yes, ties need to be ironed, also. We won’t talk too much about this subject, but we’ll see how you can do it.
First of all, check the tie’s tag to see the fabric it is made of. You’ll set the iron to a certain temperature depending on it. For a silk tie, set the iron to a lower temperature; for a cotton one, set the iron to a higher temperature.
Put the tie with the inferior side above.
THE SUIT
We got to the most elegant garment: the suit. No matter how expensive are the articles of clothing (sport or casual) that you wear, a suit will always draw more attention. Walking on the street wearing a suit, you certainly saw all the eyes pointed on you. Most of the people wear a suit only at special occasions, except those who wear it as a uniform. And these people wear most of the time some grey suits, two sizes larger…
Now let’s see how you can find the perfect suit.
First of all, you have to know exactly why you want to buy the suit. Is it for work? Are you going to a wedding? Do you want to wear it day by day to impress people? You have to know as many details as possible before buying it, because it is an expensive
investment. Take your time! Otherwise you may risk to avoid wearing for years and to see that you spent money like water.
Secondly, you have to decide upon some details of the suit. What color and what texture do you want it to be? How many buttons do you want it to have? How should the lapel look like?
Do you think it’s too much? No problem, we’ll analyze them one at the time.
Choose the texture
The suit of a well-dressed man has to be made of natural textiles. The abidance of this criterion doesn’t assure the quality of your clothes, but its inobservance definitely destroys it.
The best and most wide spread texture is wool. This texture is recommended because it can be worn in every season, it’s able to absorb and release perspiration, is easy to cut out, crumple-resistant, and comes in a diversity of thicknesses.
Other texture alternatives:
Cashmere – the quality of this texture is well-known. A cashmere suit is perfect for frequent temperature changing periods, because it keeps inside it a constant temperature. The disadvantage of this material is its expensiveness, and suit manufacturers began to avoid it lately, turning to cheaper materials, therefore the cashmere suits became hard to find.
Cotton – this is the most acceptable choice of a material as an alternative to wool, especially for warmer periods of time, because it is breathable.
Poplin – it is a combination of light materials which include: silk, cotton, wool and, sometimes, polyester. This type of texture is wide-spread at very elegant suit models, made for special occasions. It is an ideal texture for summer. The disadvantage of suits made from this material is their short durability. Poplin costumes are very delicate. Flax – is a very light and smooth material. Although wearing this material will give you a tropical feeling, it crumples immediately and spots very easy. It doesn’t represent the most inspired choice for a suit unless you like to go frequently to dry cleaning.
Polyester – this is a very cheap synthetic material which has to be NEVER chosen for a suit. It gets warm because it keeps inside the warmth of the body and doesn’t allow it to breathe; it crumples pretty easy and has often an unnatural and strange luster.
Microfibers – another synthetic material, made from very thin fibers which allow the body to breathe better than polyester. It is one of the cheapest materials available, but it has low-quality.
Whatever texture you choose, avoid taking the suit too often to the dry cleaning because the cleaning process shortens the life of each article of clothing.
Choose the color
The first thing people see at your suit, before its cut, the number of buttons and the way it fits you, it’s its color. First impressions always count; therefore the choice of your suit’s color is one of the most important decisions. But this is not such a difficult task as you may think. The classic style is based on a few basic rules which, once you learnt them, make the adequate color’s choice a pretty simple task.
Some colors are always proper for suits, while others are proper for a certain occasion and totally improper for others. Some colors are indicated only for certain seasons. If you are the kind of person who usually doesn’t wear a suit and you need one only for special occasions, where a formal dress is necessary, a dark colored suit will always be a good-choice. Dark blue, dark grey and black are the most proper colors.
When you go to a wedding or a party, a dark blue suit will make you look awesome when it’s getting dark outside. You can wear it with black or dark-brown shoes.
A black suit may seem the best choice for young people, but is actually the most uninspired choice. However, there are situations when only black is proper, so you’d better have a black suit, just in case.
Now that we’ve solved the problem for those who limit themselves to a single suit, although everyone should have at least two such articles of clothing, we can move to those who use to wear suits frequently.
Basic colors – dark blue, dark grey and black
Any wardrobe should have suits of dark colors, because they are proper for almost any situation. The most proper and often seen color is dark blue, a very traditional and elegant color. Dark grey is also proper for young people because it doesn’t emphasize youth. Black is proper for the formal air it gives to people because it also creates an authoritative image.
Brown
Brown is another popular color among the materials used for suits, with various tones ranging from cinnamon to dark chocolate. A lot of men look fabulous in these earth colors. As we all know, brown was considered an improper color for business suits until the 80’s. Although times changed and brown became a color as proper for suits as dark-blue, dark grey and black, there are some “old guard” members who still respect that rule. This fact shouldn’t discourage a well-dressed man to choose a brown suit for business attire, but it is well to know.
Cinnamon – less glaring than white (but which also puts you forward) is perfect for spring and summer. It matches perfectly with white, light blue or any pastel shirt. It accentuates better a dark colored tie.
Sand – an ideal shade for those who already have a few suits of classic shades and look for a special color that gives a professional look. Appropriate for all seasons wearing, this color is less elegant than grey and it matches better to a fine-featured men.
Light gray
This is an adequate color for spring and summer, which doesn’t excessively draw
attention to the wearer and accentuates his features, therefore is proper for those with fine complexion, regardless their carnation shade. You can wear it with white, light-blue and almost any light color, but if you have a very light complexion you’d better choose stronger colors for your shirts.
White – is a classic color for the warm season. Is matches everyone except the people with a very light complexion, but even they can fix that inconvenient by choosing a proper color for their shirts. The secret of looking good in a white suit is to wear it self-confidently.
When you choose between various colors, you have to keep in mind your hair, eyes and complexion color. Pay attention to the colors that accentuates your features and hide your imperfections. The only way of seeing these aspects is to try the clothes on. And don’t forget an important aspect when you try on an article of clothing in front of the mirror: pay attention to the light! The textures colors can change in fluorescent light and can have completely different shades in natural light. Choose the proper combinations depending on the destination of your suit.
Traditional colors of suits, dark blue, dark grey and black match all complexion types, because the complexion’s shade influences especially shirt, tie and accessories’ choice, and it’s not so important for choosing the suit’s color. That’s
why, if you choose a suit in these traditional colors, you will have nothing to worry about. Men with very dark hair and very light complexion, and also men with very dark
complexion or very tanned have to be a little bit more careful than the rest of men, because a wrong suit’s color can disadvantage them a lot.
Thus, if you have a very light complexion, a dark-colored suit will bring to light this feature, while lighter color as grey or brown will shade it away. If you have a dark complexion, a dark-colored suit combined with lighter colored shirt can provide an excellent contrast, and if you have a medium complexion, a shirt and a tie in lighter colors can provide you a warmer look. A man with light colored hair and a light
complexion will be accentuated by light earth colors which match better with his features. Choose the design
Men’s suit styles are not very complicated. Actually there are only four basic types, from which vary a lot of models. These are:
• Italian style (or European) – represented by double breasted suits, is generally appropriate for tall men. It usually has peak lapels, pleated pants and slit pockets.
• British style – represented by formal single breasted suits. Also known as “the English suit”, it has three buttons on one column and three outside pockets, the pants are pleated or double pleated with a cuff at the bottom.
• American style – the most relaxed of the styles and gives off a younger image. The jacket has two buttons on one row and flat front pants. This type of suit shows off best your physical shape. The medium sized lapel accentuates your chest line and flat front pants show off your natural legs shape more than the pleated pants.
• Mandarin style – unique style, which probably shouldn’t be classified among classic styles, inspired by the oriental cultures, that occupies a special place due to its late popularity. Its main characteristic is its very short and erect collar (stands straight up). The jacket is also different in that it has buttons all the way up the jacket and it has usually five to six buttons. Mandarin shirts must be worn with this type of jacket, and the tie is also non-existent.
Choose the number of buttons
Three button suits – these were very popular in the 90’s, because the two button suits were considered more conservative. Things begin to reverse now.
Two button suits – suited for most of men. No matter what brand you prefer, they sure have two button suits, but they try to make them as modern as possible, to attract buyers.
One button suits – yes, there are such suits, only they are not suitable for all people. You should wear them only if you work in a less conservative environment, where you will definitely stand out from the crowd.
Choose the lapel design
The lapel is the part of a garment that is an extension of the collar and folds back against the breast. Avoid very wide and narrow lapels, choose something intermediary. If your face features are sharp, the lapel can also be sharp. If you have rounded face features, a round collar can be an advantage for you.
How to buy a suit
Before buying the first suit you put your eyes on when you enter a store, apply what you read so far about suits. Search for the suit made from your favorite fabric and color, that doesn’t cost too much. Don’t make compromises only because you didn’t find the perfect suit in the first store you entered.
Against folk beliefs, the suit, when well-chosen, is a very comfortable article of clothing. When is not comfortable, most of the times, it is not the design to blame, but the size you chose. It’s no use to suffer for beauty’s sake, and if you don’t feel good in the suit you chose, you can be sure that everybody will see that. A man looks good when the clothes he wears befit him. When the clothes are too small, they are too tight and will make him feel uncomfortable, and when they are too large, he will look as if he borrowed them from somebody who’s bigger. But how can you see if a suit fits you? Check the following details when you try it on, from top to bottom:
The jacket collar – the collar should uncover a half of a centimeter of your shirt’s collar when you stand with your arms at your sides. This way you make sure that when you sit, your shirt won’t disappear completely.
Your jacket’s shoulders must give the sensation that your shoulders slightly come down naturally. Avoid jackets with shoulder pads, they are out of date!
Sleeves – sleeves loops must be so high that when you bring your hands above your head the jacket doesn’t raise completely, covering your face. The length of your sleeves – you must assure that one centimeter of your shirt’s cuff remains visible, but not more than one centimeter.
The bottom button of your suit must never be closed – not even when you stand. If you leave that button closed you risk breaking it off whenever you sit down.
The pants have to lie on your waist, not on your hips and they have to fit comfortably between the legs, without leaving too much space. The pants have to fall straight on the leg, without forming swellings. Smaller people will probably have to shorten their pants to match with a jacket that fits them.
The length: Your pants have to reach the superior part of your shoe’s sole and slightly touch your shoe in the front.
Take it to the tailor
The tailor will take care of the little details, once you found something that fits you. Small details might make all difference. In addition, you will feel much better when you
know that you wear a suit that fits you perfectly! As an example, the tailor can broaden or shrink your pants, depending on your needs. Anyway, make sure the tailor doesn’t have to modify the size more than 1-2 centimeters. If you need a major modification, then you didn’t choose well your suit.
There are only certain zones where the tailor can elegantly cut in your suit:
• Pants’ waist – can be shrunk however you want to make pants more comfortable, but when the jacket fits you, normally you need only a few centimeters less. The enlargement of your waist depends on how much excess material was left at the cut of your pants. You can check that by looking inside them.
• Pants’ length – the same as at the waist, the pants can be shortened or lengthened only in the limit of the material left available from cut.
• The jacket can be enlarged at the waist or shortened at its sleeves, but make sure that you choose a skillful tailor to change it.
The best suit for you
Now let’s see what suit fits you! Some people find a proper suit easier than other. Other people have special needs and difficulties when they have to choose a suit. They need a certain fabric that suits their body type (when they are fat or thin), their height, etc.
If you are thin and tall... choose lighter colors. Lighter colors make things look bigger, so you can use that for your advantage. Try to avoid vertical stripes (that make you look taller) and darker colors (that make you look thinner) and choose lighter colors like khaki or grey.
If you are fat... use light fabric and dark colors. Every people heard that dark colors make you look thinner. You can choose dark blue or black. Choose mat colors or vertical stripes.
If you are small... or even if you try to look taller, no matter which your real height is, use the following recommendations:
Avoid vivid colors; they will only draw attention to you. You can make exceptions only in informal situations, when you want to stand out.
You can easily use the eternal vertical stripes when you want to subtly draw attention to you in formal situations. You won’t have trouble to find suits that have them. Even I have
Another thing you can do is to choose jackets with only one or two buttons.
Taking care of your suit
When you think about the high cost of your suit, it seems perfectly normal to grant a special attention to its maintenance, in order to use it as long as possible.
Keep the suit only on a coat hanger. Make sure the coat hanger fits the jacket’s shoulders. Otherwise, the shoulders can get out of shape if it’s too small, and also the sleeves if it’s too big. There are special hangers for pants. Avoid keeping the pants folded. Avoid the crumpling of your suit.
Also avoid wearing the pieces of your suit separately. When one of them is worn more often, it can decolorize more than the other.
When you store the suit for a longer period, you have to pay attention to moths. These small insects can make huge holes in your budget! The weapons you can use against them are: the classic tar camphor, modern sprays or closet odorants and if you have a cedar wood closet, this is the ideal place to store your suit.
You can have trouble when you travel with your suit. Always use covers for suits (you can find them for sale and they are pretty cheap) and try to keep the suit hanged up. When you want to clean your suit, don’t even think about putting it into the washing machine! Dry cleaning needs to be done to keep a suit clean, but should not be overdone because it is a pretty rough process. Cleaning a suit can damage it, so get it cleaned only when absolutely necessary.
THE BLAZER
In the colder periods of the year, when you can’t show your muscles on the streets through your t-shirts, a jacket seems to be the perfect solution. But everybody seems to have them. You have to leave somehow the pattern. What do you think about a blazer?
Such a coat is perfect for the situations when it’s exaggerated to wear a suit, but it’s a formal occasion however (for example an informal dinner where you have to make a good impression). The blazers are worn with a variety of clothes, ranging from a shirt and tie, to an open-necked polo shirt They are seen with pants of all colors and styles, as well as jeans.
A coat doesn’t have to draw to much attention, but it has to look fabulous on you. To be sure of that, be careful when you choose the size. When it comes to
this article of clothing, you can’t full anybody: it either fits you or not.
First of all, you have to decide whether you want a short, long or a regular coat,
depending on your height. If you are tall, look for longer coats, if you are small, look for shorter coats. The surest way is to measure (preferably with the help of a tailor) the length of your shirt’s sleeve and your chest’s circumference. When you have these two
measurements, it’s easier to choose the perfect blazer.
When the blazer lies on your shoulders like a curtain or looks rather like a raincoat, it obviously doesn’t fit you. A wrong coat size can make a jacket or a coat look shabby. In this case you cannot afford to wear loose clothes, hip-hop style.
Any blazer will look ten times better if it follows the shape of your body. What does this mean? When you want to buy a blazer in a store, don’t buy anything unless you’re absolutely sure it fits you perfectly. It’s ok to ask the shop-assistants until you find
something that fits you. It’s their job to help you, anyway! And even if you don’t find the perfect size, choose it in such a way that you can have it modified by a tailor before you start wearing it.
worn both at work and in the spare time. Later, it began to be worn in lighter colors, like white or yellow, with a two button-down shirt, but it was considered too formal for the younger people. But things began to change lately, and these types of coats are starting to gain popularity.
In the worst case, you have to be one step ahead of others when it comes to clothes. A blazer is one of those things that give you an advantage. But if that doesn’t tempt you, the secret is to have a t-shirt that is very different from the others. Wear at least a vest – it will certainly look special!
The blazer is a coat worn at special occasions. It can be seen as a cultural symbol of intelligence and wealth. It’s in style, classy and formal. Now get it out of context a little bit. Wear it with jeans. You’ll certainly look different than the others. Absolutely! If you really want to look different and to have a fresh look, try a white blazer. Over fifty percent of the people who participate to a special occasion wear dark colors to make sure the others accept them. The white you wear will give you an unequalled aura.
A very good way of seeing weather someone is self-confident or not is to observe how much he wants to be seen. It suggests that they are used to hold the spot-line – the social value.
If you want to draw attention through clothes, you must be self-confident, you must be sociable. Thus you’ll make all the girls from the room to look at you and they’ll see themselves that they are looking at you. You’ll be unstoppable.
When not to wear it
The best choice for a wedding is a suit. You should avoid casual clothes, as this is a formal occasion. This is also available for other formal occasions, like business meetings. The financial part
A blazer is certainly a good investment. Each man should have one in his wardrobe. It makes women look at you and make you compliments about the way you look. If such a coat costs $300, would you pay $10 each time you go out and make an extraordinary first impression?
You can wear it for years. Just make sure you keep it clean. Store it in a place where it won’t fill in with dust. After five parties where you look better than all the men in the room and keep yourself in the foreground, you’ll see that your investment worth it. It’s hard to find a quality blazer at a good price but… to become a person admired by the rest of the world is harder. Otherwise everybody will do that, won’t they?
How many buttons should I close?
Except the case when you bought a one button coat, never close the bottom button. If you close it only for design, it will tighten you too much at the bottom, making your
movements difficult.
Close the first two top buttons or the middle button to a three buttons blazer. Stand out against the temptation of closing only the top button, leaving the other two opened. Close only the two middle buttons to a four buttons coat.
Does the blazer have more than four buttons? You can leave it unbuttoned, or close all buttons, except the bottom ones, which reach the thighs. If you close all your buttons you’d look a little bit too buttoned. Most of you will never wear a six buttons blazer so don’t worry – just remember to keep the bottom one unbuttoned.
Recommendations:
• Avoid over three buttons blazers, especially if you’re not tall.
• Unbutton your coat when you sit down, so that your coat stays well. What kind of pants should I wear with my blazer?
Jeans are your first option. If you prefer formal pants, you have to check their texture. When they have the same texture as the blazer make sure their color is different. Otherwise, it’s ok to have colors that are close.
The collar of the shirt – In or out?
Definitely in - the collar used to be worn above the jacket thirty years ago, but today is completely out of fashion.
Can I create my own “suit” using my blazer and a pair of suit trousers?
Practically you can’t, except for the rare case when the blazer and the pants are made from exactly the same material. In the other cases you should keep your blazer for less formal situations.
THE OVERCOAT
Men’s overcoat is rather omitted as a needful article in a masculine wardrobe lately. Probably the guilt for this situation belongs to our way of living in artificial climate environments that keep us away of outer coolness and the more casual approach of fashion. However, each man should have an overcoat from practical reasons that don’t necessary involve fashion.
You can wear a sport jacket, indeed, but even if you consider it warmer and more comfortable, it will only crumple your suit and distort its shape, especially at the shoulders.
In the colder months, no matter how stylish is the suit you wear beneath, the first
impression you make is based on what you wear over it. If you wear a sport jacket, you’ll offer the impression of a sport outfit, and your elegant shoes and suit will look
discordantly.
On the other hand, when you walk in, draped in a knee-length coat with your scarf smartly knotted around your neck, you make a distinguished impression that will stick even if you take it off to reveal a polo shirt and blue jeans. Of all the garments we wear, the overcoats have perhaps changed the least over the past century; designers and fashion magazines range them according to the materials they are made of, usage, etc. There isn’t a well-established standard in the field, and we’ll try to classify them into five main styles, according to their cut.
The pea coat
It appeared in 1950 - 1960, when cars became more popular. Unexposed to the outer climate, the drivers felt the need of a more comfortable and proper for driving overcoat, that is to say a shorter overcoat.
Made from various fabrics, having original cuts, this kind of overcoat kept its well-earned place among the most comfortable types of coats up to now. A well known design is that of the coat worn by Jude Law in Alfie, a coat which created a true fashion trend.
Chesterfield style
Originated in Britain, this kind of coat was introduced by the sixth Earl of Chesterfield, George Stanhope, who made this article of clothing famous at the beginning of 1yth century.
This model distinguishes through its custom or overlapped lapel, flap slanted pockets a single breast welt pocket, slightly shaped and elegant, falling to the knee. One of its characteristics was the black velvet collar, but in time this detail became optional. This very classic style is best set off in grey or dark grey, made of dark colored cashmere or even the camel hair classic.
Crombie style
This style name also comes from Britain. It is named after the company founded by John Crombie in 1805.
This very classic overcoat, with a simple lapel, single breasted, is also known under various names. Is main characteristics are its cut away shoulders, patched lapel, flap pockets and eventually a flap chest pocket.
You can wear it for both casual and extremely elegant occasions.
Polo style
This classic type of coat can be traced to Britain’s Edwardian polo fields and was made known by the famous American brand Brooks Brothers, which dressed personalities like Abraham Lincoln, Franklin D. Roosevelt, John F. Kennedy, Clark Gable, Cary Grant, etc. Polo coats are single breasted and double breasted. Sometime the polo coat is designed with big patched pockets and a half-belt or all-around belt.
The chromatic scale is extremely various and so is the range of fabrics the coat is made of.
Covert style
This kind of overcoat resembles a little the Chesterfield coat and borrowed its name from the material it is made of: the covert wool. It was worn by aristocrats when riding or going to hunt.
The color of covert overcoat is generally beige of various tones.
This style’s main characteristics are its collar opening, single breasted with four
concealed buttons on a row, and four rows of stitches at its sleeve cuff and bottom hem. The fabric used for this coat is covert wool, and also other types of twilled fabric. The perfect garment choice over a suit for any man that respects himself is an overcoat.
When you try on an overcoat, you’d better wear a suit, to see how it fits. Check out the shoulder’s line. The coat doesn’t have to be too tight because it can distort the suit and disturb the easy movement, but neither too loose, because it looks very unaesthetic. Another thing you have to check when you try on a coat is the length of the sleeve. When you fold your arm, the coat’s cuff has to end at your wrist.
Check whether the collar keeps its place when you lift it; this is a proof of a well-done cut and you might need to wear it like this on a snow storm or a gale, etc.
Another element that says a lot about the quality of an overcoat is its lining. Check it to make sure that it’s not made of an uncomfortable or of a poor quality material, and that it’s seems are well done and resistant.
As any other article of clothing, the overcoat has to be chosen depending on your shape, to emphasize your strong points and to hide potential imperfections.
A short man should wear clothes that make him look taller. A man can use some tricks when choosing the perfect coat design: a straight, squared shoulder line, pockets sewn higher than normally, V necklines. The length of your overcoat must never go bellow your knees.
A tall man has to keep balance in height. He has to choose horizontal lines. Buy clothes made from patterned fabric, like tweed. Light colors are also proper for this kind of physique.
Double breasted overcoats are proper for those with an imposing constitution. But if you’re a little smaller, you have to choose designs, colors and fabrics that don’t
accentuate this imperfection. Good choices are plain, dark colors, straight, unshaped cuts, and vertical striped fabrics or fishbone (see the image below). Avoid by all means coats that are too long and those too heavy or massive.
When you don’t know what color will fit you best, black is the perfect choice, excepting the case when you are very tall or very thin. Other alternatives that go with any suit and tie color are navy and charcoal.
Light colors like beige and grey can also be easily matched with the rest of the outfit. As the coat is an acquisition you’ll probably want to wear for many winters, it’s always good to know some maintenance rules for it:
- Don’t put it into the washing machine, not even if the indication on its tag says so. The overcoat can be dry cleaned only.
- Avoid ironing the coat with the hot iron. Soft materials like wool and cashmere are very sensitive and can get a shining look at the contact with hot objects. - Try to always keep your overcoat on a hanger when you don’t wear it. If you keep
THE JACKET
On a cold weather, during the spring and autumn, you have to wear a jacket. Made from a vast range of materials, in a variety of models and colors, it’s impossible not to have one in your wardrobe.
Some jacket models firmly maintain their position against new fashion trends, like leather jackets; others, although not very fashionable, like quilt, sport or classic cloth jackets, are preferred due to their coziness, and other jackets come or go out of fashion, suffering more or less style changes, like denim jackets.
The choice of a jacket depends very much on each person’s style and personality and on the situation you wear it. It’s impossible to buy a proper jacket for all occasions. However, there are a few aspects you can guide on when choosing the perfect type of jacket for you:
- Freedom of movement. The jacket shouldn’t restrict your movements in any way. But don’t buy a jacket two size larger to be sure of that. Try also to avoid unisex products. Try on the jacket by raising your hands and bending to make sure it isn’t uncomfortable for normal movements.
- Heat comfort. The jacket you chose will be more or less warm, depending on its model and the fabric it is made of. It’s a sure thing that the jackets which offer you protection against coldness will be larger and heavier. There are also synthetic linings specially designed to offer an increased heat comfort with a small amount of volume and weight, but you have to be ready to pay more for those.
- Weather fastness. Many jackets are made from weatherproof exterior materials. When you want to buy a jacket for long term outside activities, choose an adequate model, with elastic or knitted cuffs and welt.
- Hood. When you choose a hood model don’t forget that its purpose is to retain heat, so make sure it fits your head and doesn’t make you feel uncomfortable.
- Zipper. If you chose a zippered jacket, make sure the zipper is a quality one, and its ends are insulated (usually with fabric) to keep the coldness away.
- Pockets. They have two purposes – to keep your hands warm and to hold other objects inside. Therefore well-lined pockets are welcomed. Check whether they have a closing system you can count on.
Classic jacket
It’s perfect for not very cold days and the favorite jacket of those who prefer a more elegant style. You can wear it over a suit or over a casual outfit.
It can be made of various materials: cloth, tweed, viscose and synthetic fibers combinations that give its dress.
Among classic established colors like black, dark grey, brown, etc. cherry is another color in the headlines.
A great advantage of this jacket is the fact that it can be very ingeniously accessorized with various foulards, scarves, and bags.
The leather jacket
The leather jacket is a special kind of jacket which was borrowed from sport, namely from motoring. It was born from the necessity of creating a jacket from a resistant material that could protect the body from various factors like: external heat, rain, wind, and possible crushes and slipping on the ground.
We meet in wear the leather jacket which keeps sport connotations although sometimes it is made in a more classical style.
The leather jacket can be long or short, made of leather or suede leather, fabric or fur-lined. Thus, one of its most appreciated qualities is the increased heat insulation. To realize this type of garment, a very expensive raw material and an adequately manufacture is needed. That’s why its price is higher than for other types of jackets.
