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Paracord Bracelet Fixture/Jig
Paracord Bracelet Fixture/Jig
by
byMacGyver9MacGyver9on July 15, 2011on July 15, 2011
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Paracord Bracelet Fixture/Jig
Paracord Bracelet Fixture/Jig... 11 Intro: Paracord Bracelet Fixture/Jig
Intro: Paracord Bracelet Fixture/Jig ... 22 Step 1: Tools & Materials
Step 1: Tools & Materials ... 22 Step 2: Disassemble Angle Divisor Tool
Step 2: Disassemble Angle Divisor Tool... 22 Step 3: Cut Wood
Step 3: Cut Wood ... 33 Step 4: Drill
Step 4: Drill and Assemble The Woodand Assemble The Wood ... 33 Step 5: Attach Female Ends of
Step 5: Attach Female Ends of BucklesBuckles ... 33 Step 6: Attach Male
Step 6: Attach Male Ends of BucklesEnds of Buckles ... 44 Step 7: Drill ‘Dimble’
Step 7: Drill ‘Dimble’ ... 44 Step 8: Remove Sharp Edges From
Step 8: Remove Sharp Edges From WoodWood... 55 Step 9: Create Sizing Table
Step 9: Create Sizing Table... 55 Step 10: Record Initial Marks For Buckles
Step 10: Record Initial Marks For Buckles ... 55 Step 11: Determine Remaining Marks
Step 11: Determine Remaining Marks ... 66 Step 12: Finish Sizing Table
Step 12: Finish Sizing Table ... 66 Related Instructables
Related Instructables ... 77 Comments
Intro: Paracord Bracelet Fixture/Jig
This tutorial will show how to make a paracord bracelet fixture that can be used with or without side release buckles. As I beganmaking more bracelets it became readily apparent that I needed to build a fixture for this purpose. I looked at several designs that were being used and decided to create my own version. When I decided t o make the fixture, these were the objectives I wanted to achieve:
- It had to be simple to use
- It must be portable for traveling & camping - It must be easy to make
- Must be inexpensive
I accomplished the objectives and decided to share my design. I was able to make this fixture in about an hour for under $12. It is adjustable from 3 to 12 inches.
Step 1:Tools & Materials
Tools needed:- Drill & drill bits - Saw
- Screwdriver(s) - sandpaper (optional)
- counter-sink drill bit (optional) Materials list:
Quantity Part Description (Approx Cost) 2 ¼” x 1 ¼” flat head bolts ($ 0.20) 1 ¼” wing nut ($ 0.10)
1 ¼“ screw protector cap ($ 0.25) 4 2 ¼” wood screws ($ 0.99)
1 angle divisor - also called angle divider ($ 7.99) 2 ½” cable clamps ($ 0.20)
1 5mm x 10mm pan head machine screw ($ 0.19) 1 size 8 x ½” screw ($ 0.08)
1 5mm hex nut ($ 0.19)
36” 1” x 4” standard grade board ($ 0.74) 1 3/8” side release buckle ($ 0.40) 1 5/8” side release buckle ($ 0.44) Total $ 11.77
Step 2:Disassemble Angle Divisor Tool
In order to reduce the amount of woodworking skills required and make the project construction easy and quick, my design uses parts of an angle divisor. I used a Tool Shop angle divisor I picked up from my local Menards (hardware store). If you don’t have a Menards store nearby, the same angle divisor can be found listed under other brand names as angle dividers (Promax 79050, Big Horn 19050, etc.)
Start by removing the rivet connecting the three aluminum bars at the end of angle divisor (far right in the main photo). Tip: Grind off the backside of the rivet using a grinder or Dremel tool with grinding wheel bit, then remove the rest of rivet with pliers.
Remove the adjustable thumbscrew and keep the slotted bar and shinny rectangular guide piece (bottom of thesecond photo) – discard the rest of the angle divisor. Use a ¼” drill bit to enlarge the hole in the shinny rectangular guide piece. The hole is very close to ¼” already, but still needs to be enlarged.
Step 3:Cut Wood
Saw the 1” x 4” board into one 22½” section (the base) and four 3½” blocks. Stack t he base and 3½” blocks asshown in the photo. The grain of the wood of the 3½” blocks should run perpendicular to the grain of the base.
For clarification: The size of the smaller blocks (3½” blocks) should be cut to the same width as the board - on dimensional lumberthis is usually 3½”. If the piece of wood you are using isn't exactly 3½”, then adjust the length of your cutsaccordingly.
Step 4:Drill and Assemble The Wood
Drill two pilot holes t hrough the base and each of the top 3½” blocks. On each of the bottom 3½” blocks, drill the pilot holes only ½ way through – don’t drill all the way through. On one of the bottom 3½” blocks, drill a ¼” hole through the center. Counter sink the hole using the tip of a ½” drill bit or a countersink bit. Insert one of the 1¼” flat head bolts into the center hole.
Take the 22½” base and drill a ¼” hole through the center. Countersinkthe hole– this will now be the bottom of the board. Insert the other 1¼” flat head bolt into the center hole. Assemble the wood pieces using the 2¼” wood screws.
Step 5:Attach Female Ends of Buckles
Attach a cable clamp, a female end of a 3/8” side release buckle, a female end of a 5/8” side release buckle to the side opposite the markings on the end of the slotted bar that had the rivet.
Step 6:Attach Male Ends of Buckles
Attach a cable clamp, a male end of a 3/8” side release buckle, a male end of a 5/8” side release buckle to the 3½” block that doesn’t have the bolt in the center. See photo for correct placement of cable clamp, etc.
Step 7:Drill ‘Dimble’
On the opposite end of the base, dri ll a ½” ‘dimple’ near the inside edge of the base. During storage and t ransport the dimple will provide a hole for the nut of the 5mm screw to sit in (so that the slotted bar will sit flush to the base).
Step 8:Remove Sharp Edges From Wood
I recommend all of the sharp edges of wood be “dulled” using sandpaper. Since I transport mine a lot I decided to round over the edges even more using a trim router with a round-over bit.
Use the ¼” screw protector cap on whichever bolt doesn’t have the wing nut – swap bolts when t ying or storing. The cap protects your fingers while tying a knot and wil l prevent snagging by the other bolt when storing or transporting.
Step 9:Create Sizing Table
Using a 3/8” bracelet as an example, measure the length around a person’s wrist – for this example I’ll use 8 inches. When making a bracelet a popular “ rule-of-thumb” is to add an additional i nch for the extra bulk due t o knotting – so our modified length will be 9 inches.
Because the bracelet will be inserted into the buckles of the fixture, we need to adjust the slotted bar until there is 9 inches between the female end and the ‘rim’ of the male end.
Step 11:Determine Remaining Marks
Knowing the reference marks for both buckle sizes enables us t o create a tableof the bracelet sizes for these buckles. Simply lay a measuring t ape beside the slotted bar and align the respective reference mark with the 8 on the measurinng tape (original size of the wrist). The example in the photois setup for the 3/8 inch buckle (57 on the slotted bar).
Next, find the values for t he wrist lengths youwant from the measuring tape and read thecorresponding markson the slotted bar. Do this for both buckle sizes and you should get something like the next step.
Step 12:Finish Sizing Table
Related Instructables
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7 comments
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benbar12
says: Jul 30, 2011. 8:33 AM REPLYWow very creative! (I voted five stars.)
ninja42
says: Jul 22, 2011. 6:20 AM REPLYBrilliant!
triumphman
says: Jul 18, 2011. 10:05 AM REPLYCan I just make some aluminum bars and etch my own numbers onto them? I have scrounged an armful of flat aluminum stock a few years ago and have been making cool things ever since. One thing I made is window plant shelf brackets for my home as the windows don't have any shelf space or any way to place plants in a sunny window. Unless I open the windows, which is awkward and a bother to open and close every day in bad or hot weather. I have cut, drilled, polished, bent, the stock bars and made numerous things throughout the years. Just this week, I made a nice bracket for my brother's pancake compressor. The top is plastic and it spread apart at the seam, where you pick it up. I clamped it back together, made a bracket, and used nuts and bolts to hold it in place. It will never come apart again! When I return it he will be pleasantly surprised. I'm always fixing and improving stuff. It is what I do! Thanks for your 'ible! Just what I needed for my paracord projects. I was using a board and a screw in hook !
MacGyver9
says: Jul 18, 2011. 1:29 PM REPLY"Can I just make some aluminum bars and etch my own numbers onto them?" Certainly. When I first designed the fixture/j ig I chose the angle divisor to make the project quick & easy to finish - it had t he long slotted bar, numbers were already etched on the bar, was in-expensive, durable and easy to t ake apart and re-use.
Making your own slotted bar and etching your own numbers shouldn't cause any problems. You can still use the same methodology to create your sizing table. Good luck!
dimdiode
says: Jul 17, 2011. 2:30 PM REPLYI like it, I've been mulling over something like this for a while. Yours ought to provoke me to get off my butt and make one! thanks,
putipa
says: Jul 17, 2011. 7:28 AM REPLYcool been tryin to come up wi th one i will make t his soon thank you!!
