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“ D o it n a tu ra lly - try fre e d iv in g , it ta k e s y o u r b re a th a w a y ! “
re e d iv in g
Breathhold Freediving,
Snorkelling and Spearfishing
Index
1. Introduction to Breathhold Freediving, Snorkelling and Spearfishing
2. Snorkeller; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver Certification Programmes
3. Prerequisites, Performance Criteria and Competence Declaration
4. Basic Chemistry and Physics of Water
5. Seawater - the elixir of life – born with the mammalian reflex
6. Buoyancy, Specific Gravity and Density
7. Introduction to Freediving, Snorkelling and Spearfishing Equipment/Apparatus
8. Mask – visual assistance – see underwater
9. Snorkels - artificial airways - breathing
10. Fins – propulsion like a fish
11. Exposure and Thermal Protection - epidermis
12. Selection of Equipment and Apparatus
13. Practical Exercises and Performance Criteria
14. Contact Numbers and Networking with Persons
15. Shore dives – your first steps to losing equipment and Boat Diving
16. Oceanography Waves, Tides and Currents
17. Stalking and Hunting fish, Shooting Fish and Stringing Fish
18. Fish attracting devices (FAD’s) and Flashers
19. Areas to hunt and types of fish
20. Sea Sickness - Mal de Mer
21. Shallow Water Blackout (SWB) and Meditation
22. References & Annexures List of Restricted Fish
Few experiences compare with the thrill of exploring inner-space. The oceans, which comprise over 70% of the planet, make the earth a unique member of the solar system - perhaps the universe. Water is life and the earth is alive - like a human body (Gaia hypothesis). Yet while man has walked on the moon, he has only just begun to explore his own water planet.
As an air breathing mammal man has evolved and adapted to life on terra-firma. His body has grown to hear and see in a special way. Under water man feels strange yet he should feel as if he is going home (more on the mammalian reflex later). Mankind feels as if they are in a foreign world, undersea, and new rules apply. A diver may have trouble interpreting and becoming familiar with the new sensations common to the underwater realm. Their body is affected in ways thy cannot understand.
SPEARFISHING – ON A WATER PLANET
Two thirds of the earth is covered with water and anyone who does not dive has been short changed by life. I feel sorry for a person that has only seen a small part of what our planet has to offer. Freediving offers a challenge to be found nowhere else. As air breathing terrestrial mammals, we can only pay fleeting visits to that wonderful, alien world that our long forgotten ancestors left millions of years ago. Because we are so ill equipped to tackle the undersea environment there are certain rules that should be observed when spearfishing
Golden Rules
1. If possible, always dive with a buddy - spearo’s who dive alone – die alone.
2. Only dive in conditions where you feel entirely self-reliant even if you have a buddy - survival of the fittest – it’s a jungle out there!
3. Be sure, when you enter the sea, that if you lost your mask and fins you could make your way back to the beach unassisted - drop your weight belt when in danger .
4. Don't ever load a speargun out of the water and don’t rely on safety catches - the only true safety catch is slack rubbers .
5. When diving in an unfamiliar area, speak to local divers re sea conditions and good diving areas - the importance of local knowledge can not be over emphasized.
6. Don't carry fish on a body stringer sharks don’t need any additional encouragement.
8. Don't use earplugs for any reason. They are the quickest way to burst an eardrum.
9. Don't dive when suffering from a cold. It's the second quickest way to burst an eardrum. If you cannot equalise – don’t force it.
10. Don't shoot fish in the presence of feeding sharks.
11. Don't drink and dive or take medication that will make you drowsy and still dive.
12. Check up on local conservation laws governing the taking of fish, shellfish and crustaceans. Confirm protected conservation areas and applicable rules & regulations.
13. Always rinse your gear in fresh water after a dive and check all your gear for wear and tear. When you are down at 20 meters – your fins are your lifeline back up.
14. Learn how to give mouth to mouth resuscitation and how to help a person after suffering a shallow water black-out.
15. Know first aid and what to do in the case of a serious wound ie shark bite or propeller wound.
16. Carry meat tenderizer to apply to Portuguese man o' war (Blue Bottle) stings.
17. Join a spearfishing club where you can meet people of like interests and remember-
THERE ARE OLD DIVERS, THERE ARE BOLD DIVERS BUT ………
THERE ARE NO OLD, BOLD DIVERS
Question How many times have you been in the water? Where and When? How did
you feel when a wave knocked you over at the seaside and you were held under and could not breathe? Close your eyes and describe the sensations you felt? Do you like being in and being under the water? Would you be able to relax in a backwash? Do you
panic?
You will learn some more on the meta-physiological phenomenon that takes place in a human body when submerged in water ie relaxed euphoria, mammalian reflexive tendency, blood flow, centre of gravity, dehydration, cooling, breathing, apnea, hypoxia, anaerobic exercise.
Whilst being underwater may be unique and puzzling - it does not need to be frightening. The same laws of physics apply under water too. Water was your prehistoric first home and even before birth you were protected and developed in the amoeboid fluid in your mother’ womb! When you enter the sea – you are going home.
Snorkeler; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver Certification Programmes:
Objective
To supply a framework for individuals to obtain certification as a Snorkeller; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver - to be able to safely enjoy the sport socially and competitively.
Skin Diving or snorkelling is a safe, enjoyable past-time that has much to offer for everyone. There is no better way to learn about marine life than by experiencing the amazing underwater world first hand. Snorkelling not only strengthens the muscles, skeleton and cardiovascular system, but also offers relaxation away from the stress and tension of everyday life. Skin diving provides educational, physiological and psychological benefits for young and old alike and it is an inexpensive sport the whole family can enjoy.
Both the Snorkeler, the Skin Diver and the Extended Range Freediver certifications are experiencially oriented educational programmes. Their aim is to introduce swimmers to skin diving and freediving using mask, snorkel and fins. A buoyancy vest and/or a wet –suit with weight - belt can also be used. The Snorkeller programme includes confined water exercises that will enable the graduate to freedive to a pressure of 1.5 atm equivalent to a depth of 5 metres/15 feet. The Extended Range Freediver programme adds more advanced skill development in a natural open water environment to qualify the graduate to dive to a pressure of 3 atm. Equivalent to a depth of 30 metres.
Candidates who successfully complete these programmes qualify for Snorkeller; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver certification:
Pre-requisites
1.
Participants must be 10 years old or older. Applicants under 18 years of age must have written parental consent. In competitions, contestants must be older than 16 years.2.
A liability waiver, medical history form/current medical certificate and statement of understanding must be completed and signed by all participants and legal guardians (where applicable) prior to any instruction or performance assessment.3.
Participants must be in good physical condition and the instructor may require students to gain a physician’s approval prior to in-water training.4.
Participants must be able to tread water for a minimum of ten minutes and must be able to swim.5.
Participants must have their own diving mask, snorkel, fins and any other buoyancy devices and other accessories deemed necessary.Performance Criteria
Pass a theoretical examination with at least 65%
Must pass all the practical tests
Must log at least 5 snorkel dives and have these verified.
The student will demonstrate competence in selecting, preparing, adjusting, checking, cleaning, storing and using the appropriate equipment.
The student will learn and demonstrate
•
Be able to swim 200m freestyle any stroke - without rest•
Be able to float on back for 5 minutes with slight arm and leg movement•
Tread water with a 5kg weight for 3 minutes•
several techniques to enter and exit the water safely•
techniques to equalise ear, sinus and mask air spaces•
Recover 3 objects in one duck dive at a 5m depth.•
Swim underwater by finning only for a distance of 25m•
Breathe through snorkel with head under the water for 3 minutes•
Static apnea breathhold for 1 minute•
Demonstrate lifesaving technique by towing a buddy for 50 m. Continue with resuscitation techniques on dry land•
Proper breathing and airway control•
clearing a flooded dive mask•
breathing from and clearing a snorkel•
buoyancy control•
several floating techniques•
several above water swimming techniques•
several below water swimming techniques•
kicking using only fins for propulsion•
treading water without fins and with fins•
cramp release•
proper duck diving•
proper descent and ascent techniques•
diver to diver and diver to boat communications signals•
the buddy systemAdditional Extended Range Freediver Performance Criteria:
•
selection of suitable dive sites•
safe entry and exit of water•
proper weighting for buoyancy control at different depths•
rescue of an unconscious diver•
towing techniques for tired divers•
activation of local medical procedures•
first aid for common marine injuries•
how to recognize an unconscious diver•
how to evaluate currents, tides and waves•
identification of common fish and marine species•
identification and avoidance of common marine hazards2
3
1
4
Know Assess Skills Assess Horizontal breath-hold swim Vertical dive Static Apnea1. Snorkel
Diver
9
9
10m 5m
1
minute
2. Skin
Diver
9
9
25m 15m
2
minutes
3. Extended
Range
Freediver
9
9
50m 25m
3
minutes
4. Master
Freediver
9
9
Basic Chemistry and Physics of water Buoyancy – Archimedes Principle; Water
Viscosity, Temperature and Heat Loss, Light and Vision, Sound, Pressure – Boyle’s Law
Matter
Only about 100 different types of matter elements exist. Ninety are found in the natural environment and the rest are man made in laboratories. All substances living or non-living are made up of these elements.
Atoms
An element is a collection of atoms that cannot be decomposed into smaller units (quark?). However they can be changed through nuclear fission, fusion and particle
acceleration. Atoms have electrons that orbit around the nucleus at high speed negatively charged and protons positively charged. The neutrons in the nucleus have no charge.
Water
Water is made up of two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom in a bond H2O. Although both hydrogen and oxygen are volatile separately - when they are bonded together as an H2O molecule, the result is quite docile.
Seawater
Seawater has a number of other base elements in the molecular mixture such as copper, iron, calcium etc and even silver / gold . The largest concentration of base elements in the mixture is sodium chloride or salt NaCl. Seawater has a Specific Gravity that is greater than the fluids in a human body which facilitates reverse osmosis.
States of matter
States of matter are - solid, liquid, gas. Give an example of water in each state? Pressure and temperature change the state of the molecule of matter. Cold compresses and heat expands the water molecules. Extreme cold causes dense ice to form and extreme heat causes less dense water vapour to form. Pressure has a marked effect on the state of matter ie car radiator boils at a higher temperature.
Conductor
Water is an excellent conductor of heat 20 times better than air.
Only about 20% of the sun’s light reaches deeper than 30 ft. In the colour spectrum - red begins to fade at 15ft and is seen as grey / black. Orange goes black at 50 ft. Blue and green however can be seen up to 250 ft. It can be seen that water absorbs light as the denser materials in the water block the light.
Water & sound
Sound and light are similar - they travel in waves, but sound travels better in denser material and that is why sound travels for great distances under water. Water is said to be a good medium for sound travel.
Wales and dolphins can communicate great distances under water over 100 miles with their high pitched, almost sonar sound waves. Echo sounders also use this principle of bouncing sound waves off objects and measuring the distance of the rebound.
Buoyancy – Archimedes Principle
A body that is immersed in water will displace water according to the mass / volume / surface area? of the object. Downward pressure will be equalised by upward pressure. Denser fluids specific gravity will exert more upward pressure buoyancy ie salt water more that fresh water. Remember this when selecting weight belts to reach neutral buoyancy in seawater at 15 ft down - buoyancy compensation.
Pressure:
Pressure = Force / Area
Equipment is an essential element in recreational diving. The proper equipment enables mans adaptation to the underwater environment by allowing him to see clearly and more freely under water. Equipment also protects the sports diver from the cold, scrapes on the sharp corals and the other hazards of the sea. Some basic items of equipment that will be discussed
Mask, hood, snorkel, gloves, weight-belt, wetsuit, fins, dive watch and knife
Mask
These are goggles usually made of silicon rubber and glass have really opened the door to inner-space and allows man to see under water like a fish without distortion and discomfort as it keeps the water away from the eyes. The ideal mask should have a low volume waves, pressure with high peripheral vision sight seeing, hunting, threats . The strap should be of silicon rubber or the modern floater strap. New masks must have the strap adjusted correctly and the silicon preservative cleaned off with toothpaste or dishwasher liquid. Once the mask has been worn in it can be simply prepared for demisting by using a commercial demister or human saliva spit .
The face mask is the most important piece of equipment in freediving as it is a window to the undersea universe. The face mask creates an airspace between the eye and the water, without which it would be impossible to focus and a diver would be blind for all intents and purposes. It consists of a face plate of hardened shatter proof glass set into a soft flexible body of silicone rubber that forms a waterproof seal that encapsulates the eyes and the nose of the diver with a head strap to hold it securely in place. Before entering the water it is essential to rub saliva or a commercially available anti-fogging agent onto the inside of the glass and then rinse it out with water. Failure to do so will result in the inside of the mask fogging up and rendering the wearer practically blind.
To test that a mask will not leak when you are in the water, flip the headstrap over the front of the mask, incline your head forward so that you are looking at the ground, place the mask in the correct position and sniff a little air out of it to create a vacuum effect. If there are no leaks the mask will stay in position without the support of your hand. The smaller the airspace in the mask the better as it will require less air from your lungs to compensate for the additional external pressure as you descend. A wisp of your hair or the top of a moustache can break the airtight seal around your face.
Snorkels
Snorkels are your umbilical cord with the air. It allows divers to breathe on the surface without having to lift their head from the water surface. An average persons head weighs 7 - 9 kg’s. It can be very tiring on your neck and shoulders lifting your head and breathing for long periods in the water try and tread water holding 10kg’s of lead above the water . When your head is partially submerged it effectively weighs a lot less and then you also don’t have the problem of turning to breathe all the time. Also when your head is partially submerged you can also constantly keep watch for approaching threats
or prey. The best snorkel is simple, short and thick with a soft silicon rubber mouthpiece. Fancy devices to purge water ie ping-pong-balls and purge valves are not recommended.
See the history of snorkels !
Fins
Swim fins are worn to increase the area of the wearers foot, thereby amplifying the thrust of the leg against the surrounding water and making it possible to swim strongly without using arms. When spearfishing, a person’s arms a have plenty to do, carrying guns, shooting and hopefully subduing one's catch. Fins suitable for spearfishing should comprise of a full foot pocket which has a bladelike extension between two and two and a half foot lengths beyond the wearer's toes. Choose a fin whose blade stiff ness suits your leg strength. Too stiff a blade could cause cramps as could too tight a fit. Select a foot pocket that is a comfortable fit which can be made snug with the aid of a pair of neoprene diving bootees or an old pair of socks - using fins without these can cause bad skin chaffing. Good fins are expensive and when operating through the surf it is advisable to use a leash attached to them similar to those used by surfers. These leashes are available commercially though seldom supplied with the fins.
When swimming, point your toes and move your legs with a slight pedalling motion as you would use on a bicycle though the power stroke is with the forward motion as opposed to the backward power stroke when pedalling a bike. Try not to let the fins break surface as you are swimming, the noise and disturbance will alert the fish to your
presence and waste your energy. Fins are never called flippers by serious divers almost like in the army calling your rifle - “ a gun “ . Fins are also a very important part of your diving equipment. Fins will allow you to propel yourself up to five times faster under water with less than half the energy usage. With fins you begin to feel like a fish under water. Fins can be long or short, narrow or broad depending on the need. Short, broad fins are used for quick bursts of high energy acceleration - such as in under-water hockey or wave riding and serious spearfishermen and deep free-divers use long, medium blade fins for slow, relaxed, energy conservation diving. In-between fins can be used for dual purposes such as shallow water spearfishing, crayfishing and perlemoen diving.
See how fins have changed over time and with different applications !
Exposure and thermal / abrasive protection
A wet-suit is both for thermal protection and also protection from abrasion and cuts. Retarding heat loss is particularly important because water conducts heat away from the body 20 times faster than air of the same temperature . Wet-suits come in different thicknesses and styles
1mm lycra suit for tropical water and protection from blue-bottles sharkskin 3mm and 5mm wet-suits with open neoprene cell and closed cell
7mm wet and dry suits for extreme cold conditions
The styles are single piece with zip, farmer john with pull-over jacket and velcro / zip options. Fixed and loose hoods are optional extra’s. Wet-suits are an expensive item of equipment and need a lot of inquiry / research before buying one.
To be relaxed mentally and physically one must be warm and comfortable and in order to spend any length of time in the water it is wise to acquire some protective clothing which should consist of neoprene foam. A full suit usually consists of a "Farmer John" which covers legs and trunk and a jacket and hood combination plus bootees. In warmer water to the North, 3mm neoprene is adequate and some would say long sleeves and a hood are too warm. Keep in mind that as well as conserving body heat the full suit is vital protection against stings from the various jelly-fish and fire corals which may be encountered during a dive. In more Southern waters 5mm neoprene or even thicker is often preferred especially between May and October when water temperatures drop during Winter. When wearing a neoprene hood care must be taken that the edge of the hood surrounding the face does not interfere with the vital seal between your face and mask and cause a leak to occur. Nothing is more frustrating than water pouring into your mask. It is essential to have a reinforced patch on the point where you place the gun butt when loading your speargun otherwise you will wear a hole in the neoprene. Your local dive shop will be able to help you in this regard.
Weight -belts
This is a canvas or rubber belt with quick release buckle this is critically important and loose lead weights that can be adjusted according to the individual buoyancy requirements and the individual bodies natural buoyancy. An approximate rule of thumb is 1 kg of lead weight for each 10 kg’s of body mass, but this changes according to the unique individuals bone mass and body muscle / fat ratio. Do not forget the different denseness of fresh and sea water.
The use of a belt and lead weights are a must for any serious spearfisherman. They are essential in countering the natural buoyancy of the body and allowing the wearer to leave the surface with a minimum of splashing but not so heavy as to cause negative buoyancy at the surface so that a diver would sink the moment forward propulsion ceased. In shallow water 4 to 7 metres it is usual to carry enough lead to achieve neutral buoyancy at about 2.5 to 3 metres while when diving in deeper water 10 to 20 metres or more 4 to 5 metres would be a better option for reasons to be discussed later. It is absolutely essential that a weight belt should have a quick release mechanism that can be operated with one hand should an emergency arise. I have found a belt made of a slightly elastic material such as rubber, to be most comfortable. Distribute the weights evenly around your body otherwise you may end up swimming with a list, which can lead to all sorts of problems.
Knife or tool
The biggest danger underwater is entanglement with fishing line or your own equipment. A sturdy diving knife or similar sharp tool can save your life and also help to prize out valuable souvenirs. The knife can be fastened to your leg or arm according to you own preferences. Remember that a diving knife is the most commonly lost pieces of equipment so make sure that yours can be securely fastened to your body.
This is an important part of spearfishing equipment with many uses, the main one being to dispatch your catch and to cut yourself free from entanglements. The best place to carry one is in a sheath on the inside of your calf where it is easy to see and use during an emergency. Stainless steel is essential and a flat streamlined weapon of no more than 20 centimetres in total will be adequate.
I know a spearfisherman who now always carries two knifes - one on each leg. We were spearfishing in Lake Kariba in Zimbabwe when he was taken by a 10ft crocodile on the leg. His whole foot, fin and leg was in the crocodile’s jaw up to the knee and he could not get his knife out. Eventually the crocodile let go for a better bite and he could get at his knife which he used to mortally wound the huge beast which eventually let him go.
Selection of equipment
For me cost and quality has 4 rules
1.
Never compromise on personal safety. There is no such thing as “ beginner “ diving equipment. Get the best that you can afford or rather wait for a while. New divers need even better equipment than experienced divers.2.
Your equipment must be comfortable. It must fit well and work well. Relaxation is the secret to diving well. Comfortable equipment that works well will allow more energy to stay alert, less stress and less mistakes.3.
Look after your equipment. Keep your equipment in good condition. Maintain it. Clean it. Store it safely - out of the sun’s rays. Always rinse out with fresh water and allow to dry properly before storing.4.
Deal with experienced and knowledgeable people. Do it right first time - this will always save you money, time, happiness in the long run.SPEARGUNS
Spearguns, the sharp end of spearfishing. The most practical weapon for underwater spearfishing is the rubber powered speargun. Usually consisting of a wood or aluminium tube - fibreglass and composite graphite barrels are becoming available with a pistol grip housing the trigger mechanism and a muzzle at the other end to which one or two surgical rubber bands are fitted.
The 6-7mm spring steel spear is threaded through the muzzle, slid down over the top of the barrel and pushed into the recess above the trigger mechanism where it is held fast. The rubbers are joined at the rearmost end by a short piece of cable and are pulled back until they reach a notch in the spear about 6cm in front of the trigger mechanism. The cable is hooked into the notch so that the rubber is stretched three or more times its length. When the trigger is squeezed the spear is released and catapulted forward by the rapidly contracting rubber and propelled out through the muzzle at high speed through the water towards its target for an effective range of 4 or more times its length. It has a sheet metal stainless steel barb hinged about 8cm from the pointed tip which once driven through a fish will, with a backward pull, open up to approximately 80 degree holding the prey captive. Spearguns vary in length from about 80cm for hunting in caves or very limited visibility to 1.5m or more when the quarry is Mackerel or Tuna in open clean water where long range shooting is the order of the day. A good all round length for general spearfishing, which will do just fine in either situation, is one with a barrel length of 1.1 metres armed with a spear that protrudes about 30cm beyond the end of the muzzle to counter any sag in the shaft between trigger and muzzle which would reduce accuracy.
Some guns have a channel along the top of the barrel which supports the spear along its length so that not so much spear is needed beyond the muzzle. A nylon line of at least 150kg breaking strain is attached to a hole just before the loading notch and the other end fastened to the muzzle and is usually four times the spear’s length. The slack is held tight by means of a small hook on the trigger mechanism that is squeezed allowing the spear free flight for the entire length of the line. Never load a speargun out of the water or leave the water with a loaded gun. To load a rubber powered gun is quite simple provided that a certain procedure is followed, when it isn't, I have seen men far stronger than myself give up in disgust after fighting the rubbers for minutes on end to no avail. First of all, wear gloves, they make a big difference.
LOADING A SPEARGUN
1. Hook the fingers of your gloved right hand into the wishbone joining the ends of the surgical rubber. With the left hand take a firm grip of the barrel of the gun about 20cm ahead of the pistol grip
2. Push the gun forward until you can place the back of the pistol grip onto the centre of the breastbone.
3. Release your grip on the barrel - the gun is now held in position by the tension of the rubbers. Hook your right hand alongside the left under the wishbone, now using both arms draw the rubbers back along the barrel until the wishbone engages the notch on top of the spear.
NEVER LOAD A SPEARGUN OUT OF THE WATER AND NEVER TRUST A SAFETY CATCH. THE ONLY SAFETY IS SLACK RUBBERS
Breakaway Rig
When you have shot a big fish and your gun is being towed around deep below you. You are left hanging onto your floatline and begin to feel very vulnerable, especially when sharks are present. The answer is to rig your gun with a breakaway system so that the gun detaches from the floatline and leaves the spear connected directly to the float. You then have the gun in your hands, which although without a spear, is a great psychological comfort in the thousand to one situation when something more than your bare hands are needed to discourage the attention of hostile sealife!
Cut a short length of plastic or metal tubing with an inside diameter of about 12mm so that it can be attached to the rear end of your gun barrel with two small cable ties. Now take a 100mm length of 16mm speargun rubber and cut it so that the rear 80mm forms a tapering tail while the front 20mm is left whole. Be sure that the end of the taper fits easily through the plastic tube without having to be forced through.
Take the spear end of your floatline and thread it into the tapered end of the rubber and out the other and tie or splice it onto the swivel on the back end of the spear line. Now tie a piece of strong cord very tight around the rubber so that it takes considerable force to move it up or down the floatline. Now, with the spear loaded, string the spearline as
usual, move the rubber up or down the floatline until the cord around the rubber is in line with the front of the tube.
Now push the tail through the tube and pull until the notch pops out the back. The rubber will stay in position until the spear is shot off. I usually hold the floatline under my palm so that a small fish or, a kill shot will not make it necessary to re-rig the rubber.
When a big fish runs and you are left holding your gun use the rubbers as a sling over your shoulder while you play the fish on the floatline.
Spearfishing Lesson#3
FLOAT, FLOATLINE AND FISH STRINGER
The float, floatline and fish stringer are three pieces of equipment that are essential to the serious spearfisherman. A float is used for several reasons, foremost being that it is connected to your gun by the floatline and should you release your gun after shooting a big fish, it aids in subduing the fish and acts as a marker to your guns whereabouts. It also supports your catch as well as being a marker to advertise your presence to any boats in the vicinity. Your float can also be used as a gun carrier when going out through the surf thus leaving your arms free to aid you in swimming through the breaker zone. To attach your gun to the float you will need two small metal hooks or clips on either end of your float. One hooks into the wishbone and the other onto a loop of cord on the gun butt. The distance between the two hooks when fully extended must be short enough to hold the gun rubbers under tension so that neither hook can disengage.
The floatline is clipped to the front of the float and should be at least 20% longer than the deepest dive you intend to make. The other end is attached to the butt of the gun. The excess line is coiled in a hank with a half hitch on either end about a metre from the float. When a fish is shot and you are not able to surface immediately, the gun can be released and the line played through your hands until you reach the float which will then assist you in fighting the fish. Be careful not to become entangled in the slack line as you retrieve your catch. The best way to avoid this is to swim slowly forward as you retrieve the line.
The fish stringer is clipped directly to the end of the float to secure any fish that are shot. It consists of a length of doubled 2mm stainless steel cable with a T piece on one end made of 8mm round stainless bar pointed at one end with a 4mm hole drilled through the centre to accommodate the cable. On the other end is a heavy-duty swivel, which is attached to the clip on the float. When a fish has been subdued and killed the sharp end of the bar is pushed through one eye socket and out the other thereby securing your catch. Only then remove the spear.
Boat Diving
Diving from a boat has many advantages including fast transport to far-flung spearfishing areas and a safe base within calling distance. Add to that the fact that the all seeing electronic fish finder can be carried which makes it possible to locate reefs and the fish concentrations on them without having to rely on landmarks which can be unreliable for various reasons. The main points of boat safety are written into the rules and regulations common to all boat users, but there are certain points which apply specifically to craft used for spearfishing, these include-
♦ No loaded guns aboard – rubber protected spear points face the rear transom . ♦ An experienced boat-handler to be aboard at all times. Take the time to train all the
crewmembers on board how to take over the boat in case of an emergency.
♦ The anchor must have a float attached to the line so that it can be thrown overboard instead of being hauled in should a diver need the boat in an emergency.
♦ It is everyone’s responsibility to keep the balance correct. If divers are coming aboard on the port side step over to the starboard especially with small deep-vee ski-boats ♦ Keep the decks clear at all times, coil your floatline before coming aboard and place
speared fish into the hatch immediately. Don’t leave loose ropes lying around.
♦ Dive upstream from an anchored boat so that you can get back.
♦ Know what signal you will give when you need to be picked up. Usually this is your gun being held vertically out the water or waved side to side in an emergency. ♦ For a comfortable ride in a choppy sea place weight-belts in the forward hatch and
divers near the back. On launching weigh in front and on beaching weight at back. ♦ When a fishing hot-spot is located use a small marker buoy such as an orange bottle,
30 metres of thick fishing line and a diving weight to mark the spot.
♦ If diving from an inflatable boat take care not to puncture it when handing fish aboard by spines and teeth. Kill your fish before putting them on board.
♦ Arrange with other divers how you'll mark your fish for sorting later i.e. cut off bottom or top of tail fin The skipper does not have to mark fish and all unmarked ones belong to him.
♦ The boat must always approach divers from the down wind side so as not to drift over their floatlines and buoys or even over the diver himself.
The dive boat should, above all else be designed to provide a stable platform when entering and returning from the water. The sides towards the rear should be low and well rounded so as to make it easy on divers coming on board. It should have as much clear and uncluttered deck space as possible. Seats, such as those of fishing boats should be dispensed with. Hatch lids, which are raised more than twenty centimetres or more above deck level provide adequate seating for divers for the short time that they are on board.
Spearo’s spend more time in the water hopefully than on board the boat anyway.
DIVING FROM A KAYAK
Diving from a kayak offers a spearo many of the advantages of boat diving but eliminates the dependency on others since it can be launched and operated by one person. The kayak affords the diver fast transit to and from productive areas, which in many cases are a considerable distance apart and can take much time and energy to transverse. In southern waters this translates to a great deal of body heat loss and a consequential shortening of dive-time. It also offers a secure base and fast transport to shore in case of an emergency. They are made in both single and double configuration, the typical single diver craft is from 3.5 to 4 metres in length and 70 to 80cm in width, weighing from 20 to 35kgs depending on the size and material used in construction. Theoretically, the longer and flatter from stem to stern that the craft is, the faster and easier it will paddle. In ideal conditions this is true but when surf launches and choppy conditions are a regular feature of operations, there has to be a compromise and a slight up-sweep of the nose makes the craft much more versatile when these conditions are encountered.
Choose a kayak with internal storage space which will also give access to the inner hull which makes it easy to add extra fittings to the deck for securing diving gear and fish
bags etc. Before a launch, even in flat-water conditions, it is essential to do a safety check on your craft. Hatches fastened down, plugs in and all external gear well secured. Speartips should be covered with a short piece of surgical rubber, this itself being secured to the deck by a cord. The paddling and handling of a kayak in various water conditions is well covered in a number of publications available from the dealers who sell kayaks and adequately cover all aspects of operating them., However actual spearfishing from these craft is seldom mentioned and some of the basic points to bear in mind are - before attempting to spearfish from these craft it is essential to practice leaving and remounting which is just as important a skill as how to paddle correctly.
Having reached the area in which you intend to dive there are two methods to spearfish from these craft. First by anchoring the kayak by using a small anchor which can be made from a small piece of metal tubing and 5mm mild steel rod attached to one or two metres of chain on a line of 5mm polyprop wound on a light plastic drum. Once the kayak is positioned, hunt up-current so that your return trip will be easy, even if you were totally exhausted or cramping. As an extra precaution play out a floatline off the stern so even if you missed your craft you could grab the floatline and pull yourself in hand over hand.
The other option is to anchor your floatline onto the bow of the kayak and tow it as you would your float remembering to keep a loop of slack so that when you dive the pull of your super size float will only affect you when you reach the end of the loop of slack.
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Remember as when diving from any craft the divers flag should be flown at all times.Once you stop spearfishing and are returning to shore be sure the deck is clear of loose gear and cords of any description and everything on deck is secured.
WHERE TO SHOOT FISH
It is extremely important to place your spear in a vital spot when spearing fish. The most practical target is the spine. The spine starts behind the head at the top of the main gill opening, curves over the gut cavity then drops to the centre of the body just ahead of the centre dorsal and anal fins and continues in a straight line to the centre of the tail. A good spine shot will immediately incapacitate the fish. If this is the case do not attempt to pull it to the surface by hauling on the spear or line. The shaft may only be resting on nerves and the undue pulling could move it enough for the fish to recover all its faculties, struggle violently and tear off the spear. If the spine is not hit. then head for the surface allowing the line to run through your fingers but try to keep enough pressure on it so that the fish is not allowed to head into a cave or other obstruction.
Once on the surface play the fish as you would on any handline, taking into, consideration where your spear is placed. If it is in the area where the meat is soft you will have to work slowly and gently if it is not to tear off. Should the spear be embedded near the dorsal or anal fins where there is a network of small bones then more pressure can be used as is the case with a head shot provided that the spear has penetrated right
through and the barb is open on the other side. The only time you need to dive is if the line becomes fouled on some obstruction or other.
Having stalked, shot and subdued a fish up to the point where it is now within your reach, the prospect of actually handling a sizeable game-fish and dispatching it can be quite a problem. This is a time when things can go horribly wrong, ending up with nothing but a hard luck story to take home. The following sequence is tried and tested and should become automatic. First take hold of the spear with your left hand, taking care not to touch the fish and be ready to release it should the fish struggle excessively. With your right hand take a firm grip of the tail-base peduncle, release the spear and position your left hand next to the main gill plate, as the gills open, insert your fingers and hold on tight.
Release the tail and draw your knife. Dispatch the fish by inserting the blade on top of the head behind the eyes. The right spot being that formed by an eqilateral triangle, the eyes forming the points of the base and the target being the apex. Once the fish is dead insert the stringer in one eye socket and out the other before removing the spear.
To remove the spear hold the barb against the shaft, push it back into the fish and withdraw it slowly while rotating the spear between your fingers to stop the barb from opening up inside the fish.
Fish that have very broad peduncles, making it impossible to hold the tail make it necessary to go straight for the gills after getting hold of the spear. This often necessitates throwing an arm around the fish's head before it is possible to get a hand in the gills. When this is the case be careful that the speartip is not protruding where you grab otherwise the fish could have its revenge by spearing you!
AIMING AND FIRING
The most reliable way to aim at a fish is to align the spear or gun with the spine so that even if there was an error of 10 cm either way, the spear would still strike near centre. If you aim by looking over the top of the gun where the error would be up or down the same amount of error would result in, at worst a complete miss. At best a shot that would not incapacitate the fish at all and a very good chance of the spear tearing out especially if the shot was low and into the very soft flesh of the belly.
TRACKING FAST MOVING FISH
Water being so much denser than air, gives wonderful support. Even a long gun can be held with one hand in the out-stretched position. The other side of the coin is that this great density that makes objects so much lighter, works against us when it comes to maneuvering the gun, and whereas above water one can track a moving target quickly and with ease, this is not possible underwater.
Here the gun must be held retracted and close to the body until sufficient lead has been gained and only then should your arm be extended and the shot be taken in a single smooth movement. For a right handed diver a fish moving down his left side poses no problem in tracking but the same fish travelling down his right side causes most divers to make some very awkward maneuvers. In order to bring the gun to bear the ideal solution is to change hands, however not everyone is ambidextrous and feel awkward shooting with their non-dominant hand. This situation can be solved by simply rolling onto your left-side and tracking towards your feet until enough lead is attained.
As one progresses in the sport you will no doubt find ways of shooting fish that will suit your particular style but the foregoing will give you a firm ground to proceed
THE APEX OF AN EQUILATERAL TRIANGLE WITH THE EYES FORMING THE BASE IS THE KILLSPOT FOR A KNIFE THRUST
WHERE TO FIND FISH
Rocky Points, Gullies and Off-shore Reefs are great fish hangouts. Undersea profiles such as shipwrecks attract all kinds of reef fish and game-fish. Hunting fish are seasonal and many variables govern their presence or absence. Remember many more fish see you – than you see !
Visitations of pelagic gamefish rise and decline with the movement of baitfish. If you find an area of reef seldom dived or fished on try to spread your catch of reef fish over as wide an area as possible or even better, concentrate on the non residents that are passing through. Shoalfish, mackerel etc. can absorb the pressure but the resident population
can't. That is the reason in many reserve areas throughout the world, reef fish are totally protected while taking of gamefish is still allowed ie Sodwana; Cape Vidal
When hunting over reef which has many caves and overhangs dive regularly and if you see fish on your way down try to reach the bottom within shooting range but with cover of some sort between you and the fish. Do not swim directly towards a fish but rather swim to a point ahead and to one side that will put you within range of it and try not to make direct eye contact but look obliquely at it until you are ready to shoot.
Many fish swim in shoals. Usually the fish are of very similar size, so if you get within range of such a group, shoot at the earliest target. Excessive moving of your speargun as you change your aim to fish that may be 10 % bigger than its companions could startle one fish and cause the whole shoal to scatter. At least 50% of the fish you shoot will be victims of their own curiosity. Having seen you disappear among some rocks or under a ledge they just have to investigate. Lucky for us otherwise we would only shoot half the fish that we do. Many reef dwelling fish spend most of the daylight hours in the shelter of caves or rocky overhangs and when hunting over reefs with this kind of terrain spend as much time as possible on the bottom investigating such places.
As you approach a cave close one eye as you start your dive and open it again as your face-mask enters the shadows. By doing this you will eliminate the few seconds it takes to adjust to the darkness, seconds in which a fish could make good its escape to some inaccessible recess that you may never reach or simply leave via the back door. Keep your gun well back so as not to give any prior warning of your arrival and if you are using a gun with two rubbers unload one as an overpowered gun can destroy a speartip in a cave. If you are hunting in poor visibility and find a productive cave it is very easy to lose its exact location while resting on the surface between dives especially if there is a current running. In these conditions carry a bright tin lid or white painted object to mark the spot and save yourself a lot of frustration.
Hunting underwater does not differ greatly from that on dry land, the same basic principles apply: observance, stealth and common sense. A spearfisherman is one of the slowest, and least suited of all creatures to take prey by the direct method of straight pursuit and could not possibly out-swim any of his intended victims. Therefore stealth is the most important skill to develop. Before you begin to hunt, flush out any small pockets of air that maybe trapped in your suit by diving down and rolling about until there are no signs of bubbles emerging. In most cases fish tend to congregate where there are reefs. These are areas of rock that protrude through the sea-bed and afford anchorage for weed, coral, molluscs and hundreds of other marine organisms on which the fish feed and find shelter. In cooler water down south one finds kelp forests and many smaller species of seaweed forming vast beds that attract the gamefish that prey on the resident smaller fish. In the north where the water is much warmer the weed beds are replaced by coral reefs that act in the same way. Usually the edges of the reef where the rocks give way to sand are the most productive areas and as a rule of thumb, the end of the reef facing into the current is most favoured by the fish.
Reefs in water near to the shore are clearly visible when the water is clean and appear as dark areas against the surrounding sand. Where they occur in quite shallow water close to the surf-line the waves build up steeper and sometimes break as they pass over them. When viewed from high ground before entering the water they will appear closer than they actually are. Once in the water spotting them from the surface is not so easy but very often as one gets within 50-60m of them it is possible to locate them audibly as the millions of inverterbrates, especially some species of shrimp cause a crackling sound that can even be heard through your neoprene hood.
When hunting every movement must appear unhurried and smooth as fast erratic movements and splashing will alarm your intended prey. Open your mouth as you dive so that your snorkel will flood from the bottom thereby allowing all air to leave it at the surface and avoid a string of bubbles trickling out especially as you level off. The air bubbles and accompanying noise can be very alarming to fish, as can any other sudden movements. Keep your head turning all the time especially when visibility is poor for the smaller, your circle of visibility the quicker a fish can swim through it. For example should you be able to see 4m all round that gives you an 8 metre circle of visibility. A slow moving fish can bisect this in as little as 8 to 10 seconds and if you were looking in one direction for even half this time you could miss seeing, it let alone do anything about it. Looking behind is best accomplished by inclining your head forward until your chin is touching your chest, not by looking over your shoulder as you would when standing upright. When the visibility is good, that is over 8 metres or in some places 20 metres or more, especially when hunting over reef. It is not so much looking for fish, but looking for movement, which is much easier to detect than is the indistinct outline of a reef fish resting amongst the rocks. This is especially important when you have a large area of reefs to be covered in a limited amount of time. Usually the most productive area being where the reef meets the sand, especially if the area involves an abrupt drop-off a metre or so. Unlike gamefish which sometimes arrive in vast shoals which can be here today
and gone tomorrow, it is important to conserve the resident reef fish population, as once they have been decimated by overfishing by any means the reefs becomes bare.
Self Test
1.
Analyse and discuss all the components and accessories of a speargun and all of your spearfishing equipment. Give advice to a beginner on what is good quality equipment.2.
Show and practice how to load a speargun. 3 Different techniques tummy, chest, foot . Reload speargun under water.3.
Target practice on fish targets in a deep swimming pool. Swim across the pool under water and then shoot the target. Try and reload under water and shoot again.4.
Breathing techniques. Deep, shallow, blow out CO2, stretch your lungs, gulp air.5.
Breathholding techniques. Conserve air in your cheeks and throat. Hold for 2 minutes if you can. Get a buddy to watch you closely. Check your fingernails for blueness.6.
Make up own gun from components. Clips, knots, repairs, replace monofilament.7.
Swimming techniques. Long distance 1km on the surface. Crawl, Doggy-paddle, dolphin kick, Breast-stroke, legs only.8.
Duck diving techniques9.
Theoretical Knowledge & Practical Skills10.
Buoy line rolling up and securing. Packing equipment on boat.FREE BREATH HOLD SNORKEL DIVING
The secret of good diving is relaxation. Mental relaxation as well as physical relaxation. The snorkel diver's time below is limited not only by the amount of air he can get into his lungs but also by the amount of physical exercise that takes place during a dive. The lungs supply oxygen to the blood stream where it is used in both physical and mental effort. Except for those muscles that you are using for a specific job, your whole body from head to toe, should be completely relaxed. In this way you will be able to conserve precious oxygen. The brain also uses a great deal of oxygen and if you dive while highly excited or disturbed your underwater time will be cut down to a fraction of what it should be.
Before you begin diving in open water you must determine exactly the amount of lead weight you require on your weight-belt so that you will reach negative buoyancy at about four metres. After you pass this depth you can relax completely and simply glide silently down without expending precious oxygen in doing so.
The reason that positive buoyancy is desirable above four metres is that when returning to the surface, it is at this level that shallow water black-out is most likely. This is when the water pressure on your body is decreasing - that the oxygen in your blood will flow back to the lungs and could cause you to blackout, therefore it is essential that if this happens to you, that you would float to the surface. If at any stage of the dive you should feel dizzy, as if you are about to lose consciousness, activate the quick release on your weight-belt immediately.
Even it it's lost it's a small price to pay for your life!
SUSPENDED DROP WEIGHTS
This is a variation on constant weight freediving / spearfishing and can save a lot of energy when diving in deep water.
THE DUCK DIVE
The easiest way to leave the surface is the duck dive, which should be practised in a swimming-pool or protected area before any serious open-water diving is undertaken.
Lie on the surface, face down. Relax completely and breathe slowly and deeply for a while, concentrating on exhaling as much air as possible as you go on filling your lungs to capacity. Hold the last breath and begin the dive by rolling forward until the top of your body as far as the hips, is pointing downwards with your arms extended in front of you. While doing this, the knees are drawn up towards the stomach and then straighten out above the surface so that they are now in line with the rest of the body. The weight of your legs will propel you down and you can speed things up by giving a backward pull with your free hand. By the time your hand is against your side your feet will be below the surface and you can fin down slowly until you reach the point where the pressure renders you negatively buoyant, after which little or no finning is required to reach the bottom.
Though your chest may have a too full feeling as you take the last deep breath, this will be relieved as the water pressure compresses the volume of air in your lungs. As you pass the three metre mark you will find it necessary to compensate for the pressure on your eardrums described under Mask. At the same time if you go deep enough you will need to exhale a little air through the nose into the mask to prevent the water pressure forcing it against your face. On your first few attempts you will probably feel the need to surface for air after a short time. As in everything practise makes perfect and as you progress and become more self-confident and relax in the water, the time you are able to hold your breath will increase. When you feel the urge to breathe and are heading for the surface, continue to relax and fin with long even strokes upwards.
Do not rush up to the surface, as the faster you swim, the more breathless you will be by the time you reach the surface and the longer you will have to rest – recovery time. Keep a 180 degree lookout by spiraling a few times on the way up and look up when you feel you are near the surface to avoid swimming into your diving buddy or some floating object. As you break surface there is no need to lift your face from the water, simply blow hard to clear your snorkel and continue breathing in the face down position so that you can observe what is going on below at all times.
Many divers, when working in deep water feel it prudent to remove some weight from their belt so that they can ascend with less effort, especially on the last 10 metres from the bottom when their lungs and neoprene wetsuits are compressed and less buoyant. This is a valid point, but in removing the weight they have to use more effort at the beginning of the dive to overcome the extra buoyancy caused. This is when you should be relaxing completely to allow your heart-rate to slow down. To prove this to yourself, try this test in a pool with a buddy standing by. Relax for a while on the surface and then do your normal five to seven slow breaths, hold the last deep breath and submerge. Now lie still,
and relax for half the time you consider your maximum, then swim underwater for 50 metres which an average diver should manage O.K. Now try to do this in reverse, go through your breath holding routine, submerge and immediately swim 50 metres underwater and as you finish try to hold your breath for the same time you did in the first instance. Not much chance of that ! The solution I found to this problem is to attach a weight from your belt to a temporary loop 6 metres from your float. Hold this in your hand, then as you reach this depth release the weight and continue the dive as normal. After this you should sink fast enough to require little or no effort on your part and the ascent will be correspondingly easier.
Contact numbers
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F.I.S.H. 4 Africa – 0826102564 Deon Strydom•
ORCA Trading - 011 4358750 Craig and Wayne•
Dive Factory - 031 3012241 Rob Allan•
Rabitech – 021 9030442 Louis Hattingh•
Medical - 0824918179 Dr Dirk Alberts•
Underwater hockey - 012 338109 Lynette Bosch•
Gauteng-North Underwater Blue GNU’s – 083 633 2851 Len Turner•
CMAS ISA – Michael Holthauzen and FrankExercises
# Gym Routine
# Dry Routine endurance, strength, muscles
# Pool session beginners training for freediving, winter training
# Meditation
# Breathing
# Running sprinting uphill, cardio vascular
Tips
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Energy conservation when diving long times•
Eating habits before, during and after diving meat ? pasta ? carbohydrates ? blood usage in digestion•
Energy boosters corn syrup, coke, chocolates, peanuts•
Allergies - beer yeast , dairy products - slime•
Mozambique venues Ponta Mallongane, Ponta de Oura, Torfu, Coconut Bay,•
Natal Venues Sodwana, Cape Vidal Levin Point , Umhloti, Umhlanga, Veggies Pier,Bluff, Cutting, Warner Beach, Umgababa, Umkomaas, Scottburrough, Rocky Bay, Baysley
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Deep Dives Aliwal Shoal dropoffs, Protea Banks•
Cape Venues Kei Mouth, Gonubie, Oranjeland, Igoda, Cove Rock, Port Alfred,Cannon Rocks, Bird Island, Port Elizabeth, Jeffreys Bay, Cape St Francis, Knysna, Mosselbaai, Stilbaai, Cape Town, West Coast.
Shore Dives
If you don’t know the area or if you have not dived at the place for a while
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Stand and check the whole scene out for a long time Check tides, currents, entry / exit points - contingency plans, time of day, wind, weather forecast•
Choose a safe place to enter the water and plan your exit route upstream - projected swim and downstream - projected drift have a contingency plan•
Tell someone reliable on the shore what your dive plan is•
Never dive alone•
If in doubt of anything - rather cancel the diveWhat do you do in the event of a backwash on the way out or way in ?
Getting washed onto the rocks
Do not dive to close to above surface or partially submerged rocks, blinders or reefs. The currents and waves are much more powerful in these areas quick depth reductions and current bottlenecks . However this is also a prime spot for fish that feed in the white water and strong currents. If you get too close to such rocks and the undertow sucks you in - try and powerfully fight to get away for a short time. If you see that your efforts are in vain, just relax and go with the flow even if it means getting cut up and bruised by the rocks. Protect your head and vital organs and try and swim with the current until you reach a more protected area.
Getting caught in a backwash
When you are caught in a backwash or rip tide and you cannot fight against it, just go with the flow. A person can survive for long periods of time in the sea with fins, mask, snorkel and wetsuit. If you need to, ditch your weight-belt and just relax. Don’t panic. Tides move in great circles and before long you will be swept back to the shore. Remember this when you are swimming too. Even if you are swept for kilometers downstream - you will be safe and will eventually return to safe terra firma.
SURF ENTRY
The open ocean is seldom calm and usually forms a pounding surf-line one hundred or so metres from the shore, depending on the size of the waves and the contour of the bottom. It might seem, to a beginner, a daunting task or even an impenetrable barrier to someone loaded down with speargun, weight-belt, mask etc. However, provided you are reasonably fit and tackle the problem in the right way, moderate surf should not bar you from what is the best of spearfishing areas. As far as swimming fitness goes, make sure that if you were ever badly dumped by an excessively big wave and lost your equipment you would be able after jettisoning your weight-belt to make it back to the shore unassisted. To ignore this fundamental rule is to show disregard not only for your own safety but for that of your diving companion who might have to come to your assistance. A beginner should never be tempted into heavy surf because he sees more experienced divers swimming out. It takes time to learn the way of the surf and it is best to gain experience in moderate conditions. Always plan a dive before you leave the beach, besides deciding upon the point of entry, plan where you will meet beyond the backline should you become separated on the way out. Most important of all decide where you intend to make your return trip to the beach. Preferably this should be clear of any outgoing current and where you will not encounter rocks as you exit the water. Select your entry point where an outgoing rip will assist you, identified by a strip of water usually at the end of a bay where it is much flatter and there is less foam than the surrounding area. Arrange to meet opposite a prominent landmark, high enough to be seen from water level. A prominent tree or your own car can provide a suitable landmark. To be really accurate, line up two landmarks one behind the other. This should put you within metres of each other.
As most of the waves on any given day will be roughly the same size and distance apart, they will break in the same depth of water as it shallows off towards the beach, forming a constant line of breaking surf. After leaving the beach, swim steadily until you are close to the main surfline. Slow down and wait until a wave breaks in front of you and if there seems to be a gap before the next one, swim as fast as possible to cross the danger zone, while keeping a constant lookout in case you need to dive again. Do not stop until you see deeper water under you, and you have left the breaking surf behind. Getting back to the beach is also a matter of timing your swim.
Get close behind the breaker-line and try to make your crossing during a lull immediately after a wave has broken and there seems to be a gap before another big one threatens.
Swim as hard as you can for at least thirty metres or more. I find it best to swim on my right side so I can keep a lookout behind for any waves that threaten to break on me. I wear my snorkel on the left side of my mask so swimming on my right side keeps it clear of the water. If on your return trip, you feel that you aren't making progress you may have strayed into an outgoing current in which case turn 90 degrees and swim paralll to the beach, until you see, by watching the bottom, that you are no longer being swept seaward, then resume your original course.
As you reach the shallow water near the beach where you can stand, roll on your back and stand up facing the waves and exit the water in reverse so as not to trip over your own fins.
ENTERING THE WATER
Watch over your shoulder for a break in the shoredumpers then walk backwards into the water which is easier to do with long fins attached to your feet.
Swim out towards the main line of breakers raising your head every few seconds while swimming through the smaller banks of foam then slow up as you approach the main line of breakers and try to cross the point during a lull. If a big one threatens to break on you dive below it while holding your mask in place especially as you break surface again.
Don’t lose equipment
Many people lose equipment when shore diving as they enter or exit the wave zone.
When dumped by a wave - with low volume goggles the chances of the wave knocking
off your goggles are reduced. Make sure that the retaining strap is firm and that the snorkel is securely attached to the goggles. Bite down onto the snorkel and even if the goggles are washed off your face you will be able to save them.
Make sure that your fins have safety rubber retaining straps and that your fins fit your feet firmly. Try and reduce the angle of drag on the fins. If one or more of your fins are knocked off - try with all your might to grab at least one of the fins before they sink. If you get washed out to sea you can swim for many hours with fins without getting exhausted.
Ensure that your knife is well fastened to your arm / leg and that the retaining clip works well. It is advisable to buy a knife that has two different forms of retaining clips. Remember - knifes are the most frequently lost pieces of equipment. I have lost at least 5
knives at sea so far - but on the bright side I have found at least 3 so far. Maybe the diving knife market is the one to get into if you want to get rich quickly .
Weight - belts are normally very heavy up to 10 kg’s . In the white water - that is very oxygenated weight belts get very heavy discuss boat cavitation. If you are in trouble in the sea, do not hesitate to ditch your weight belt. Without a weight - belt your wet suit will act as a lifejacket and you cannot sink.
Your buoy is also a floating life preserver. If you get tired pull it in close and hang on between waves. When a wave comes - try and duck dive under the wave. There is much less turbulence the deeper you dive as the water above absorbs some of the wave energy. Let me tell you the story of when I was far at sea and 3 tidal waves of more than 20 metres came through .
Oceanography
Waves and currents are generated mostly by winds blowing over the water surface kinetic energy from air motion to water motion. This causes movement of water that finally reaches the shallower bottom and breaks near the shore. The water particles travel in a cycle and return to their original position
Wavelength
Crest Wave Height Trough
Wave Period the passage of two wave crests with respect to a fixed
reference point
When the water particle cycle feels bottom or shoals, the cycle becomes elliptical as the shallower water reduces the wave velocity due to bottom drag. The wave period remains constant, wave length decreases and wave height increases.
Currents
Longshore Currents run parallel with the shore
Rip Currents Are surges of water escaping through a narrow point or bottleneck ie
Inhaca Island “ Hells Gate “ or Ponta Barra’s “ Washing Machine “ lighthouse point .
Tides - this is the redistribution of the world’s surface water caused mainly by the
gravitational pull of the moon and other astral bodies. High tide occurs every 12 hours 26 minutes.
Spring tide - when the moon is directly between the sun and the earth the combined
gravitational pull causes highest and lowest tides full and new moon – 2 per month. This is an excellent spearfishing time.
Neap tide - when the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon are at right angles to
each other. This causes very little tidal movement. Mediocre spearfishing time.
Flood and Ebb tides this is when the tide is coming in high – excellent spearfishing
time and going out low – poor spearfishing time, good crayfishing time .
Geographics
South Africa is three quarters surrounded by sea and is really one big point for diving. We have the best of two oceans Atlantic and Indian with the extremes of icy cold plankton enriched green water currents and wonderfully warm with game fish thriving in blue water currents.
South Africa is one of the best spearfishing spots in the world for all round species of fish and spearfishing conditions. A spearfisherman must be able to dive the “ Deep Blue “ gamefish ie Wahoo, King Mackerel off our East Coast, the reef fish ie Yellow Belly Rockcod, Dagger Salmon of the rocky outcrops and caves of the Transkei Wild Coast and the Kelp forest fish ie Red Roman; Galjoen of the West Coast to be able to say that he has dived South Africa.
