SOAP MAKING FOR BEGINNERS : GUIDE ON HOW TO MAKE DIFFERENT KINDS OF SOAP PDF, EPUB, EBOOK
Amanda Benz | 54 pages | 30 Oct 2020 | Independently Published | 9798553707927 | English | none
Free Beginner's Guide to Soapmaking: Cold Process - Soap Queen
Im so thrilled I was able to get it right. I had to use canola oil instead of sunflower seed oil, so I hope it turns out ok. Dear Tanya First to all thank you for all information. I live in Argentina in a small town and is hard to found shea butter and sustainable palm oil, how can replace them? Thank you very much mirta. Hello and thanks for this beautiful blog! I have a question about the lye. I can only find lye crystals. Is the lye you used liquid already? How do I adjust this recipe for lye flakes?
I love all your soap recipes, they always turn out perfect, never had a failed batch. Also now many family members are coming back to ask for more soap but my oldest daughter is allergic to Shea butter so I have made your Castile soap recipe for her. Could I substitute mango butter for the Shea butter in the other recipes? New to Soap Making!!! Gathering ingredients for my first batch…. Question: Some recipes call for colored clay which I assume is a powder. Your opinion is appreciated. I did find avocado oil and sunflower oil. Can I substitute one of those oils for palm?
I tried the soap calculator without luck lol. Please help!
You can substitute tallow beef fat directly for palm oil, but there are no other direct substitutions. As someone fairly new to soap making I am scared to death of lye so prefer to make it with melt and pour. Can the recipes above be made with melt and pour please and if so how would I work out quantities? Thanks so much x. Cold and Hot process soaps create soap from scratch :. Thank you very much for seeing good
information. I realize unrefined will have a coconut scent to it, but as far as consistency in the recipe will they react similarly? For instance, can I use unrefined coconut oil in your simple 3-oil soap recipe?
Thank you for your time! Unrefined Virgin coconut oil may have no extra scent at all in the final soap. You can choose to use it but in my humble opinion, unrefined is much better for cooking than using in soap. Both saponify just fine but I do recommend using refined coconut oil for soap making. Another oil that I prefer using the refined version is shea butter. I am trying some of your recipes, and some call for distilled water, and some just clean cold water. Would it make a difference if I used cold, filtered instead of distilled? If your water is soft and you filter it, it should be fine to use. I am looking to purchase lye and I see different purity percentages. The others may be adulterated with unwanted or unsafe ingredients.
How can I make a soap that will really focus on the properties of the extract and not the oils?
Your reply could really be a huge help thank you! Now is the curing thing just when you create the base like this or do you have to wait for it to cure when you have a premade soap base as well? These instructions are for cold-process soap, and it always needs curing. Such an interesting guideline for those who want to make their soap creation. I love this receipe. It helps beginers to start making soap easily. By explaining step by step process of soap making, they will achieve their first soap.
Thrilled to have found you Tanya. I noticed on the herbal soap recipe you mention using either fresh chopped or dry herbs. I do not want to make a batch and have a fail…like end up with browned specks in it from the fresh herbs having turned off colour. I did have a batch of rose soap I decorated with buds and sadly turned off colour. I plan to make a batch of herbal soap and wondering if should dehydrate my herbs first. Can you share your experience please? Blessed, Nora. Hi Nora, anything that is leafy and green including herbs and spinach, will eventually turn brown to yellow when mixed into soap. Your recipes look lovely. I am new to soap making and would like to add that even newbies should find a good lye calculater and use it for every recipe. Thank you for sharing these recipes. I was hoping to see the recipe for the beautiful purple soap st the beginning of this pin.. I am new to and excited to try soapmaking. What a fun opportunity.
Instead, use a good organic melt-and-pour or remill your soap and add the berry juice to it instead of water. I just happened to stumble on your website. I love your recipes and video on soap making. Do you have any video and recipes on making soap using a soap base? You are amazing, love your recipes. I would love some fragrance but also like the minimalist recipe….
Just a note of thanks. You also have a mistake? Your essential oil recipe says lemon balm but your ingredient list calls for peppermint! Cheers for that, just a little typo in the soap description. You could of course use lemon balm Melissa essential oil instead of peppermint too. I have a question about blending the ingredients. I dont now which compounds shoud use at first, second and etc. Please help me dear. I have a question, I love your Lemongrass recipe! Can I just exchange the colour and the essential oils and use and repeat the recipe?
Some common essential oils that you can use the same quantity in are: lavender, peppermint, rosemary, litsea cubeba, and geranium. I am very new to soap making but I have already experimented in making my own cosmetics and I regularly make my own lip balms for myself and presents.
I already have a few supplies and organic oils and essential oils. I would love to try a soap recipe with using what I already have. Is this essential oil interchangeable? Or is it recommended in this recipe because it has certain properties to make this a successful soap? Could I switch it for organic peppermint essential oil for example? Hi Lisa — the grapefruit seed extract acts as an antioxidant and helps give your soap a longer shelf life.
Happy soaping :. I also saw that you had mentioned that GSE is very helpful to keep soaps from going rancid : I found it cheaply online in the end.
I have been eager to make soaps for years but I moved around often so I never got all the materials together.
Now I have relocated from Canada to southern France and have a wonderful garden going and your blog matches my lifestyle very well! I am pretty obsessed with my dehydrator and have been drying everything I can get my hands on — including lots of wild flowers. I am pretty surrounded by wild flax and elderberry in my area, I am curious if anyone has tried either of those out in soaps? I also think Alkanet may be in my area so I need to explore that option for dyes too!
Anyway — a big thank you for sharing your wealth of information I am not a blog person at all normally! Your new life in France sounds amazing Lisa! Enjoy every moment of it : Sorry to hear of your bees — was it the asian hornet that attacked them? Is it on a commercial scale? Happy soaping! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I am thinking about trying to do soaps for myself and your page is full of valuable information. I am from India Tamilnadu. Can we use sesame oil Gingelly oil rather using olive oil. Please suggest. The scent of oils stays in the finished soap recipe. You can use sesame seed oil but do take this into consideration. Hello Are you okay? Hello Tanya. Superfat can be a difficult idea to understand, especially in the SoapCalc. All it means is the percentage of oils that exceed the amount the lye needs to be completely used up.
Any or all of the oils in your SoapCalc recipe can be your superfat. There are at least two ways to go about creating a superfatted soap. The first is to expose ALL the oils in your recipe to the lye solution. What happens in this case is that a proportion of each of the oils you use will end up staying in your bars as unsaponified oil. If you want a particular oil to be your sole superfat, then you hold back the oil until the very end. That way, the lye interacts with the oils you want it to, and when you pour your superfat oil in at Trace, it will stick around without turning into soap. Hope this explanation helps. Thank you very much, Tanya, for your explanation. As for first way i understand. If you do, the chance that these oils will stay in your soap as the superfatting oil is higher. If you put all your oils in the pan before the lye-solution so before before you even start stick
blending then your superfat in your final bars will be a little of each oil from your recipe.
Does this make sense? Tanya, thanks for this very comprehensive and useful article. Can I make a half recipe to begin with? Another question — can I use ALL palm oil? Hi Nandita, An all palm oil soap would not be a good recipe because it would be neither bubbly or cleansing. As for half recipes — yes you can. Be prepared to stir by hand for at least an hour to hit trace though. I just made my second batch of soap: Coconut, olive, shea butter and castor oil. Upon rereading your website I realized I needed to also add an antioxidant. Will my soap go rancid?
It will probably be fine Marlene. I want to make a small amount. I have coconut oil, caster oil and olive oil my lye but no idea what quantities to use. Please help , Julie. Hi Julie! Once you have the percentages in, click the radio button on the other side of the percentages column — it will be lbs, oz, or g. Then at the top under number 2, select your preferred value and put the total weight of the batch size you want to make. Love all the information in your blog. Starting my own adventure in soap making. If you put the shea butter in with your hard oils then your soap will have a superfat of all the oils in your recipe.
Thank you so much for all the information! I love your nature oriented life style and admire you for it. I was wondering if the soap recipes can be doubled or tripled. Thank you Diana : In regards to doubling or tripling batches — absolutely. Just be aware that the tracing time will take a little bit longer with larger batches. However, in the Part 4 you say not to have any sugars, such as honey, in the lye solution as it can result in a mini explosion.
At what point would you add the honey? Is it once the water and lye have been mixed together and the lye is cooling down? Many thanks :. What do you think would be best? Thanks again! When you have sugars in your soap recipe like honey , your soap will naturally become hotter once its poured into the moulds. Hi Jana! Yes do add the honey to your lye water to get a rich brown colour for the Honey, Oats, and Beeswax soap.
Hope this helps :. Hi, I noticed all the recipies require pomace olive oil!! Thank you for a great series of articles — I have been making soap for a couple of years just for my own use and to give to family as presents — I have been thinking about maybe selling them. You must have been though this process Just wondered if you could share your experience and offer any pointers or a good cheap tester — many thank for a great resource. I fortunately had my soap recipes certified before it started getting too expensive.
These days yes, it can be pricey depending on how many variations you have in mind. The best advice I can give you is to get in touch with a reputable EU certified chemist and get a quote. Your website is a fantastic resource for us soap makers. Thank you for being so generous in passing on your knowledge. I have a question that follows on from this query. You use I think herbs and flowers you have grown in your garden.
Thanks again for an amazing web site. I get lots of inspiration from it! Years ago I spoke to the chemist who does my own safety assessments about this very thing. It is perfectly fine to use your own homegrown herbs and flowers in handmade soap. Each harvest should have a batch number, harvest date and a MSDS sheet. Also make sure that you have that ingredient included in your safety assessment and to stick by the maximum usage percentage.
Just wanted to clarify for others incase they found the same thing. Thank you for your lovely instructions I have a question. I am unable to find palm oil. Do you know if there is a substitute in your lavender soap recipe? Palm oil is fairy easy to find in bulk food shops or wholesalers. Sustainably sourced is more difficult! A very easy substitute is beef tallow but if you wish to make a vegetarian soap then a new recipe will be needed. This is a wonderfully well written and researched series of articles. Just what I was looking for. The only thing I am confused about is the oils in making my own recipes.
And does this include the superfatting oils? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!! Those first two will make up the bulk of most soap recipes.
Superfat oil — this is an area that the soap calc does need work in my opinion. What I do is take the percentage of oil that I want superfatted out and set that aside. The lye can only combine with so much oil so whatever is left after will superfat your bars no matter if you add it in with the lye or at the end. The reason you would set aside a specific superfat oil for the end is to stop it from combining with the lye and becoming soap itself.
Thank you for your wonderful, easy-to-follow tutorials! Do you think the quantity required would be similar? You could use purple mica as well but be careful about the proportions. I have now made 4 batches of soap and am well on my way to being dangerously addicted ; Christmas presents are sorted for this year haha! Firstly, I bought a silicone mould with 12 individual bars instead of a loaf, and am struggling to get it to gel.
Ought that to be hot enough for individual moulds? I also have a question about trace. It seems different soapmakers have preferences as to whether they blend to light, medium or full trace before pouring. I am just wondering what difference this makes to the final soap? Thanks again for your wonderful wealth of knowledge : If I lived in the UK I would so come to one of your classes!! If you have a wooden box that the mould and towels will fit in, all the better! Thicker trace is also preferred by soap makers who like to create textures on the tops of their bars, fluffy meringue- like spikes and the like. I have been reading your 4 part series and noticed where you mentioned antioxidants you mentioned using either
Grapefruit seed extract or rosemary oleoresin extract, however in all the recipes it lists using vitamin E or Grapefruit seed extract.
Is vitamin E an acceptable antioxidant to use and can you use the powdered form or liquid form? Vitamin E is also an antioxidant so you can use it as well. Use a high quality liquid form — many bottles of inexpensive Vitamin E are mainly carrier oil and contain very little of vitamin e. Thank you so much! I have decided to try my hand at soapmaking and this info is by far the best and most informative that I have found.
I have a lot of frozen goats milk that I would like to use in my soap. I do not want to use Palm oil or Tallow. I would like to stick with coconut oil, olive oil, shea butter, beeswax and goats milk. Is this doable? What are your suggestions? For the honey and beeswax recipe, when should the beeswax be added? Is it melted with the other oils or added separately? You can add it with your other oils to melt down or afterwards — either works. Personally I think adding the wax during the melting phase is better since beeswax is better used to harden bars rather than moisturise the skin.
Could you update your post to reflect the corrected link — if it still exists? Thanks for sharing your work! I have just made the honey and oat soap
you have posted in this page. I only realised toward the end, that I had mixed all the oils together, instead of leaving the superfatting oil aside to mix at light trace. Saying that, it could turn out to your liking though so give your recipe a go! Just try making a smaller test batch first :. Hey Tanya, thank you for the info, your posts have been so valuable on my soaping journey! I noticed the links on this post are broken, any idea on where else to get the information you were trying to share because I am about to try to create my first recipe and i need all the help i can get! Thank you in anticipation of your response. This is very informative for any kind of DIY products. I was wondering if anyone can shed some light, suppliers do not list that the stock is food safe, but things like cacao butter should be edible also correct?
Also, Saffire Blue has become less reputable over the years but I hear good things about Candora Soap. Hi There! Lovely post! I've been making soap for about a year and a half now, and I've been using a wire multi-cutter, which leaves bumps and grooves on my soap. What kind of mold and cutter do you use to achieve the clean edges of you natural lavender soap above? You can do, but it's said that extra virgin takes a lot longer to 'Trace'…and it's also more expensive and not necessarily all that much better for your skin once it's transformed into soap.
I'd recommend 'Superfatting' with extra virgin but probably not using it as the entire quantity of olive oil needed :. Hi, this blog of yours it's awesome. You explain so clearly and i just want to thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend! I'm making soap for the first time this winter and just wanted to run my recipe by you to see if you have any advice you could offer. I have been living in South Africa for the past year and so was thinking of using rooibos tea in place of the water, pairing that with orange essential oil.
Would you recommend different ratios in the oils? Coconut oil is amazing stuff…especially if you use it directly on your skin. When it's made into soap though, it creates a very hard bar that is very cleansing and bubbly. Personally, I wouldn't use a recipe that was so high in coconut oil for fear of the soap stripping my skin and leaving it feeling dry and tight. What I'd recommend doing is swapping the percentages of Olive oil to Coconut oil for a much gentler bar of soap. Also love the Rooibos tea idea for natural colour — it will range from tan to dark brown when finished. A caution on the orange essential oil though…it will evaporate very quickly from your bars leaving them smelling unscented. Have a great time making your soap and good luck :. Thanks so much for your advice! I've made several attempts to research soap-making, and your tutorial is the most balanced and practical that I've found. I have a crazy question for you. My six-year-old and I collected a bunch of acorns, and on a whim I decided to make flour with them — which involved leaching the tannin from the nuts first.
I boiled down the water into a concentrated tannin-rich solution. I'm working to perfect a recipe that uses this solution in place of water. I'm hoping the tannin-rich solution will produce a soap that will be cosmetically beneficial. Have you ever tried anything similar, or heard of anything like that?
Could all my work be for naught — for instance, could the heat of the production process render the tannins ineffective? I have over a gallon of the tannin solution, and would like to justify its presence on our countertop to my wife…. Hi Jason and I'm pleased to hear you've found my tutorials helpful : Regarding Tannin water soap…please give it a miss! That water leftover is acidic and not only will it stop your soap from lathering but it can also burn your skin. If I were you, I'd listen to your wife and dispose of it from the counter top! Tanya, May I ask a question about the soap calculator on soapcalc. I tried to use this two weeks ago and botched it. I don't get it. That's a step you can use to tell the Soapcalc how much soap to make. So if you have a mould that can only hold a 1 lb batch the weight refers to the weight of the oils only then you choose 'lbs' and input 1. I just order a tub of coconut oil — and have no idea what it is? There are two main types of refined Coconut oil — one melts at 76 degrees and the other at 92 degrees.
Fractionated coconut oil is created to be liquid at room temperature and is used in lotions and as a carrier oil. WOW- so much great information.
This is just what I needed to dive into soap making. I would love to link to this post if you didn't mind. You are doing such an amazing job with this series!! So thought out and so fantastically written.
Such a great resource! I just started to gather supplies in the last few weeks. No one working here so the majority of the stuff will be Christmas presents. Susie in northern NY. This is fascinating Tanya! Looking forward to exploring the rest of your blog. Particularly liked the blue Burmese??
Looking forward to more…. This is so great Tanya. Are you do soap making gift sets in your shop?? Would make wonderful presents with just the right amount of everything for people to have a first try and making soap. I have bookmarked it, I have some fat stored and some that needs rendering as well. Basic bath salts make an easy gift because they're fun to make and customize. All you need is a mix of Epsom salt, sea salt, baking soda, essential oils, and coloring.
It all goes into festive mason jars for gift-giving or display in your home. Experiment with different essential oil blends and soap colorants. One trick, however, is to keep match the color with the fragrance. Or experiment by layering various colored and scented bath salts within one jar for a rainbow effect. Many soap making recipes use common ingredients like milk, honey, and essential oils.
However, many food products work well in soap recipes made from scratch, such as milk and honey. But you can also be creative and use nuts and coffee beans for a gourmet touch. If you opt for a coffee-infused homemade soap, add used coffee grounds for its excellent exfoliating value.
Though this recipe results in a soap with a light scent of coffee, the oils balance out and often overpower the fragrance. Cafe Soap by Tifforelie. It's tempting to want to add a ton of ingredients to your soap recipe, but sometimes simple is the way to go. If you're giving soap as a gift, consider a fragrance that most people would enjoy, such as lemon essential oil. Add a little yellow soap colorant to a Shea butter melt and pour soap base for a pretty, softly tinted, and creamy soap. These sweet and adorable sugar scrubs look good enough to eat.
But they're actually luxurious exfoliating soaps. You may have a few ingredients already on hand, such as the sugar. The recipe also calls for some regular soap shredded to add some texture. Add in lime soap coloring and lime essential oil for a refreshing treat. It's one of the easiest "soap"
recipes to make and these little cubes last for up to six months. An important benefit of making your own soap is that you can tailor the recipe to your skin's needs. If your skin is dry, try a moisturizing milk base.
On the other hand, if your skin is acne-prone, consider adding clay to help remove impurities. This soap is ideal for problem skin; it's not harsh and it's soothing at the same time. Try bentonite clay in this recipe. It's an ancient medicinal clay that many say has cleaning and healing powers.
Oatmeal-infused soap is popular for soothing dry, itchy, and sensitive skin. It's also easy to make at home with a goat's milk melt and pour base.
Oatmeal doesn't have a fragrance, so it's nourishing and lovely paired with honey, almonds, and a sweet almond fragrance. Why just pour Epsom salt into a tub when you can make muscle relief more fun with Epsom salt soap. It's an easy and unusual treat for a soap that you can also use in the shower or a soaking bath. You can add this muscle-relieving ingredient to a melt and pour goat's milk soap base. Add colorant and essential oil to make it pretty as well as healing. This cold process soap recipe is gentle enough to use on your face thanks to the aloe gel and nourishing oils.
Find a juicy aloe plant so you can extract fresh aloe for the soap. When you prepare the extracted aloe in a blender or food processor to make soap, it'll become fluffy like egg whites. If you have extra-sensitive skin, substitute the coconut oil for babassu oil in this recipe. Make these pretty little soap bars for gifts or to inspire your bath routine. The trick to the bubbles is in the ingredients of baking soda and liquid bubble bath but use a name brand bubble bath for extra fizz. Together, the recipe adds loads of bubbles while soothing your skin. Look for floral soap molds to make these bath bombs gift-worthy. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content.
Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads.
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Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Warning Wear protective gear eye goggles, gloves, long-sleeved tops, and pants when working with lye. Popular Soapmaking Methods. A Woodsy, Earthy Blend. A Fresh Citrus Soap. Skin Nourishing Soap. Continue to 5 of 22 below. Fun Exfoliating Loofah Soap. Tea Time Soap. Relaxing Spa Day Soap. A Little Poppy in Your Soap.
Continue to 9 of 22 below. Delicious Candy-Style Soap. Handmade Bath Bombs. Carved Crystal Soap. Gummy Soap for Kids. Continue to 13 of 22 below. A Pure Honey of a Soap. The Gift of Basic Bath Salts. Soap With an Unexpected Ingredient. Simple Lemon-Kissed Soap. Continue to 17 of 22 below. Sugar Scrub Cubes.
Soap Making for Beginners: 3 Easy Soap Recipes - Lovely Greens
I get it, making homemade soap can be a bit confusing and scary, so let's break down why lye is such an important ingredient. To answer that you have to understand the role of lye in soap, let's be very clear, all soap has lye in it. But there is a method you can use without dealing with active lye, and that's melt and pour, see below for more info. Lye is one of the main ingredients necessary to create soap, you can't have soap without it.
Sodium Hydroxide is the form of lye we use when making bar soap. Sodium Hydroxide known as lye is your base and when combined with oil considered the acidic part of this equation it goes through the process of saponification.
This means when you mix the two together they start a reaction that converts it into glycerin the fatty acids combine with the hydroxide ions and your soap. Most commercial bar soaps at the store are closer to detergent than actual soap because they've stripped out the glycerin in order to sell it more profit but this soap doesn't contain the moisturizing benefits found in glycerin.
They also contain synthetic dyes, fragrances, and other additives many of us want to stay away from. Store-bought soap is harsher on the skin and I find it feels like it leaves a layer behind. When I use homemade soap I notice a difference immediately. Melt and pour is when you purchase the base someone has already done the saponification process for you you can add your own additives from natural colorants, essential oils, scents, herbs, or bentonite clay, then you pour it into your mold and you have usable soap in less than 24 hours. FREEBIE , grab our resource page where I've done the research for you and share my favorite places to order for both price and ingredient reasons here.
Once soap has gone through the saponification process, the lye is no longer active and is safe to use. If you want to know how to make soap from scratch, then the next two methods are for you, my friend! Cold process soap is my current favorite because you really get to customize and control every single ingredient in your soap. Each oil has specific properties and reasons for using it in your soap recipe, I've got the most common oils listed for you in the freebie.
In general, cold process soap creates a smooth and creamy bar, with tons of options for customizing its scent, colors, and additives with herbs, spices, and essential oils. As it cures, the soap continues to go through the saponification process and the bar will harden up. You don't want your bars to be too soft we want it to last when in contact with water and you also need it to finish out the saponification process so it's not too harsh on your skin. Hot process soap is made in a slow cooker or a pot on your stove and it goes through the saponification process and the gel phase before you pour it into the mold. This means it's in the pot and under heat for about an hour or so. It doesn't have the longer curing time but it's not thought to be as creamy and it will have a different finished texture. Bramble Berry brambleberry. Melt and Pour Soap Base. The Wooden Wick Co. Essential Oil. Radiance cvs. Perfect 10 Essential Oil Set.
Double Boiler Insert. Glass Measuring Cup. Pyrex amazon. Prepworks 8" Balloon Whisk. Progressive International amazon. Easy-Flex Silicone Heart Mold. Wilton amazon. Birnur Aral, Ph. This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano. Advertisement - Continue Reading Below. You may have a few ingredients already on hand, such as the sugar.
The recipe also calls for some regular soap shredded to add some texture. Add in lime soap coloring and lime essential oil for a refreshing treat. It's one of the easiest "soap" recipes to make and these little cubes last for up to six months. An important benefit of making your own soap is that you can tailor the recipe to your skin's needs. If your skin is dry, try a moisturizing milk base. On the other hand, if your skin is acne-prone, consider adding clay to help remove impurities.
This soap is ideal for problem skin; it's not harsh and it's soothing at the same time. Try bentonite clay in this recipe. It's an ancient medicinal clay that many say has cleaning and healing powers. Oatmeal-infused soap is popular for soothing dry, itchy, and sensitive skin. It's also easy to make at home with a goat's milk melt and pour base. Oatmeal doesn't have a fragrance, so it's nourishing and lovely paired with honey, almonds, and a sweet almond fragrance. Why just pour Epsom salt into a tub when you can make muscle relief more fun with Epsom salt soap. It's an easy and
unusual treat for a soap that you can also use in the shower or a soaking bath. You can add this muscle-relieving ingredient to a melt and pour goat's milk soap base. Add colorant and essential oil to make it pretty as well as healing. This cold process soap recipe is gentle enough to use on your face thanks to the aloe gel and nourishing oils. Find a juicy aloe plant so you can extract fresh aloe for the soap.
When you prepare the extracted aloe in a blender or food processor to make soap, it'll become fluffy like egg whites. If you have extra-sensitive skin, substitute the coconut oil for babassu oil in this recipe. Make these pretty little soap bars for gifts or to inspire your bath routine. The trick to the bubbles is in the ingredients of baking soda and liquid bubble bath but use a name brand bubble bath for extra fizz. Together, the recipe adds loads of bubbles while soothing your skin. Look for floral soap molds to make these bath bombs gift-worthy. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance.
Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance.
Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Warning Wear protective gear eye goggles, gloves, long-sleeved tops, and pants when working with lye. Popular Soapmaking Methods. A Woodsy, Earthy Blend. A Fresh Citrus Soap. Skin Nourishing Soap. Continue to 5 of 22 below. Fun Exfoliating Loofah Soap. Tea Time Soap. Relaxing Spa Day Soap. A Little Poppy in Your Soap. Continue to 9 of 22 below.
Delicious Candy-Style Soap. Handmade Bath Bombs. Carved Crystal Soap.
How to Make Soap at Home- Beginner's Guide to Soap Making - Melissa K. Norris
Homemade soap can be and should be in my opinion superfatted. Superfatted means there's extra fat left behind to create a more nourishing bar of soap, instead of just enough to be used during the saponification process. Grab my favorite bases and supplies to make your soap at home , including my oil properties chart done for you in an easy to read and print chart. Melissa K. Norris inspires people's faith and pioneer roots with her books, podcast, and blog. Melissa lives with her husband and two children in their own little house in the big woods in the foothills of the North Cascade Mountains. When she's not wrangling chickens and cattle, you can find her stuffing Mason jars with homegrown food and playing with flour and sugar in the kitchen. It does come up in another window…. Your link does pop up a new window — which is a dead-end.
I can put in my name and e-mail, and click on the button, but nothing happens after that. And nothing in that pop-up indicates a live link anywhere.
Maybe check your spam folder? The other links work but not to that resource list. With the links that work, the little hand will pop up when I hover over …for example.. I am really interested in that resource list after listening to your podcast about soap making! Has anyone tried making the lye from wood ash pioneer-style? Could you email it to me? Valerie, just added you manually. I am so grateful for your blog post. Really looking forward to read more. Really Great. Ethelyn Caffey. Can you email it to me please? Loofah soaps are easy to make with this technique.
Melt the base, add extras, and cut the loofahs in the color of your choice so they fit in the mold. Then pour the soap on top of the loofah.
If you're making a rose soap, add rose essential oil and a bit of rose mica colorant to your base. Once this homemade green tea and lemongrass soap is ready to use, the fragrance will make you feel like you just stepped into a spa. To might be able to make this simple soap with items you already have in your kitchen pantry. For instance, this soap is made with steeped green tea leaves. Add eucalyptus and lemongrass oil for an extra fresh and healing fragrance. We love this lavender dream soap recipe because it's perfect for a relaxing spa day ambiance. Use this type of soap for instant stress relief. Add in lavender buds plus orange, patchouli, and lavender essential oils for a more complex blend. It may be a challenge to use fresh flower petals in a soap. They don't retain their color very well and they tend to look like little brown or black dots within the soap. The trick is to lightly shred them before adding, and it may take a few experiments to get it right.
This soap looks like a yummy loaf of lemon poppy seed cake. Poppy seeds are excellent for exfoliating because they remove dead skin cells, moisturize, and improve blood circulation. The color of this soap comes from a blend of essential oils, such as litsea cubeba and orange, rather than colorant. Poppy seeds are a bit heavy, so wait until the soap cools a bit before you add them in so they don't fall to the bottom. For a soap that looks and smells like dessert, use cinnamon cocoa fragrance oil and cocoa powder. This melt and pour recipe calls for vanilla color stabilizer.
Typically a vanilla color stabilizer turns soap tan or brown, but in this case, it enhances the cake-like color. The key to this recipe is the patience and skill required to create the even layers. These easy fizzy bath bombs are simply a mixture of baking soda, citric acid, cornstarch, food coloring, and essential oils.
They don't need to be cured like soap, so you can use them right out of the mold for your next bath. These beautiful, magically shaped soaps also sparkle because of the mica and glitter additives. The beauty of this soap recipe is that it embraces imperfection. Every crystal is supposed to look lopsided when they're cut. This recipe is a bit involved, but if you love the look of small crystals and clusters of gemstones in the shape of soap, this is a perfect project. Crystal Soaps by A Beautiful Mess. Kids love anything gummy, so why not make some jiggly soap to make washing hands more fun.
The key to this soap is the unflavored gelatin. Add some glitter and soap coloring to entice your kids to use the soap. Add in an extra packet of the gelatin to make the soap less wiggly. You don't want the soap to squirt out of your child's hands and on to the floor. Make a huge batch because gummy soap dissolves quickly and doesn't last as long as regular bar soap. This soap recipe is so simple that it only requires four main ingredients, including a goat's milk melt and pour base, raw honey, soap colorant, and fragrance.
Honey in any soap naturally benefits skin thanks to its antibacterial properties that can also brighten up a dull complexion. For a most charming milk and honey soap, use a honeycomb mold. Basic bath salts make an easy gift because they're fun to make and customize. All you need is a mix of Epsom salt, sea salt, baking soda, essential oils, and coloring. It all goes into festive mason jars for gift-giving or display in your home.
Experiment with different essential oil blends and soap colorants. One trick, however, is to keep match the color with the fragrance. Or experiment by layering various colored and scented bath salts within one jar for a rainbow effect. Many soap making recipes use common ingredients like milk, honey, and essential oils. However, many food products work well in soap recipes made from scratch, such as milk and honey.
But you can also be creative and use nuts and coffee beans for a gourmet touch. If you opt for a coffee-infused homemade soap, add used coffee grounds for its excellent exfoliating value. Though this recipe results in a soap with a light scent of coffee, the oils balance out and often overpower the fragrance. Cafe Soap by Tifforelie. It's tempting to want to add a ton of ingredients to your soap recipe, but sometimes simple is the way to go.
It can take up to 24 hours for large molds to fully solidify. Product Reviews. Home Ideas. United States. Type keyword s to search. Should you use lye to make soap at home? If you do choose to make soap with lye, Rodriques, who has been making and perfecting her homemade soap for 15 years, says this is what to watch out for: Appropriate ventilation is the most important thing to have before embarking on making soap from scratch.
Rodriques keeps raw materials in a locked cabinet in her basement, which also doubles as her soap-making laboratory. Choose a recipe and fragrance If you are a beginner, the simplest way to start is to purchase a soap base — a pre-mixed combination of the soap, glycerin, and a few add-ins like plant butters and extracts for skin benefits, along with additives for transparency or fillers for making opaque bars. Melt-and-Pour Soap Base. Bramble Berry brambleberry. Melt and Pour Soap Base. The Wooden Wick Co. Essential Oil. Radiance cvs. Perfect 10 Essential Oil Set. Double Boiler Insert.
How to Make Homemade Soap in 6 Easy Steps
You do not want to overheat or burn the oils, only gently melt them. Stirring gently usually helps to break up the big pieces of solid oils and speed along the process. Measure your other ingredients While you are waiting for the oils and lye solution to cool, you can measure out your other ingredients. If you are not using fragrance, color or other additives, skip this step. For each fragrance, color additive or other additive, place an appropriately sized container on the scale and weigh it. Press the "tare" button to return the scale to zero. Set aside. NOTE: As a general rule of thumb, don't use more than about 0. Use your digital thermometer to tell when your oil and lye solution have reached the desired temperature.
Once they are ready, you can start the final phase before the dishes, that is. Plug in your stick blender and make sure you have your safety equipment on put it back on, you know you took it off when you were waiting for things to cool down. Once all of the lye solution is in, scrape sides and stir with the spatula until everything is initially blended. If you are using a stick blender, completely submerge it in the solution.
If you used a big pot, you may have to tilt it to submerge the blender. Using short bursts, start to blend the solution, trying to get the edges and the bottom, completely mixing everything. Scrape down sides with the spatula to be sure no under mixed lye or oil remains. If you're not using a stick blender, then just keep mixing and mixing by hand. It will work fine, but will take a while longer. The solution will start to thicken as it saponifies combines to become soap. Once it reaches "trace", you are ready to pour it into the soap mold. It's about like cake batter. Slowly pour the wet soap into the soap mold. Be sure to get all of the soap out of the pot, and get it into all of the corners of the mold. Once the pot is empty and your mold is filled, lightly tap the mold on the surface of your work station to make sure the soap is set and to release any trapped air. You can clean the edges of the soap mold if you wish, but it is not necessary. Wrap or cover the mold with a heavy blanket or towel to contain the head and allow it to rest and cure for hours.
It will get quite warm and then cool down. That is the saponification process taking place. Once the soap is fully cooled, you can unmold it.
Depending on your oils and water content, the soap may be soft when unmolded. Allow soap to rest until it is hardened up a bit 1 - 3 days and then cut it as desired. Set aside in a cool area with good circulation for 4 - 6 weeks until the bars are fully hard.
You just made your first batch of cold process soap! If you haven't verified that your additives won't affect the soap, be watchful for any sudden changes in the soap mixture and be ready to act quickly if necessary. If you Login or Register you can take advantage of more available content.
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I have made my first soap today using your simple herbal soap recipe. I was wondering if I can make this again using the hot process? I am keen to experiment and learn from what difference it makes. Yes, absolutely : Just make sure to use g water instead of the amount listed. My instructions for making simple hot-process soap are here. I would like to do this too. For hot process, is that the only change we need to make to the flower recipe, use g of distilled water? Could I still add yogurt at the end? Just make sure to use the full water amount :. Quite informative content! Thanks to you, I can try making soaps with my recently ordered natural essential oils! Can any essential oil be added to the Easy 3-oil recipe after trace? I made some soap for my son with sensitive skin last year using a mix of olive oil and coconut oil and it worked great.
Sadly I cannot find the recipe so wanted to try something as gentle, but with a bit of scent. Hi Aimee, yes, you can change the essential oil used for the recipe but please follow the usage rates and guidance laid out over here. Not lavender and lemon together. Hi Gemma, you can fully customize the essential oils for any soap recipe with the usage rates and guidance over here. Hi Tanya! Tq for this lovely recipe. We can easily find liquid coconut oil only. Can I use it in the recipe and follow the same weight? That means it needs a different amount of lye to transform into soap than ordinary solid coconut oil. To answer your question, no, you cannot use your liquid coconut oil as a replacement for solid coconut oil in cold- process soap recipes.
Can they be adapted for melt pour? Hi Vicky, Melt-and-pour soap is completely different from cold-process from scratch soap making.
However, you could get inspiration from some of the essential oil blends and floral decoration :. Thank you for all the beautiful soap recipes you share to all readers. I would like to know how to make liquid face soap. Would you be able to send me some recipes or if not please add to your this post and i will pick it up from here, My second question is, can i use live Aloe Vera from my garden to make a liquid face or hand soap? As for aloe vera, yes, you can use it to make a type of liquid soap. Hi, Tanya!! Thanks Yer. If the air trapped in the head of the blender is allowed into the soap, then the air can be captured in bubbles in the finished product.
Also make sure that the stick blender head is always submerged. As for the oiliness, that may be just your interpretation of your first batch of soap.
It will be moist until the bars fully cure. Thank you for all the work you put into this wonderful blog. Was just wondering — could you halve the beginner soap recipe quantities? Many thanks. Hi Caitlin, almost all of the recipes I share are for small batches of just 1-lb g of oil.
Half-pound batches are certainly do-able by halving all of the ingredients of a 1-lb batch but could be a lot more fiddly and messy. Hi, I really want to try this, but one quick question first. Can I substitute avocado oil for sunflower? Just because I already have a lot of good quality avocado oil.
This tutorial is wonderful, thank you so much!
I am new tit his. I have glass Measuring cups and small measurement spoons the ones you listed. I notice the measurements are very specific; ex: 7.
Do you put the liquid oils in a container and place that container on the scale? I would obviously measure the glass container first and then subtract from the weight with the oil in it. Just curious. You can place your container on the scale and press tare to set the scale to zero. Good luck :. Hi Tanya, I have made your simple flower recipe using lavender essential oil, the soap is curing and is 10 days in.
The scent has completely gone, is there something I can add to the recipe in future to hold the scent and how much? I love you soap recipes.
Thank you Amanda. Hi Amanda, three teaspoons of essential oil in a one-pound soap recipe is quite a lot. For comparison, I only have my soap making students use 1. The only thing I can figure is that you could have used the wrong measuring spoon or that there was something wrong with the lavender oil. You could have also added the lavender oil too soon. You stir it in as the very last step before molding. Have a go at making it again and good luck :.
Thank you for the recipe! Easy to follow and great results! Im so thrilled I was able to get it right. I had to use canola oil instead of sunflower seed oil, so I hope it turns out ok. Dear Tanya First to all thank you for all information. I live in Argentina in a small town and is hard to found shea butter and sustainable palm oil, how can replace them? Thank you very much mirta. Hello and thanks for this beautiful blog! I have a question about the lye. I can only find lye crystals. Is the lye you used liquid already? How do I adjust this recipe for lye flakes? I love all your soap recipes, they always turn out perfect, never had a failed batch. Also now many family members are coming back to ask for more soap but my oldest daughter is allergic to Shea butter so I have made your Castile soap recipe for her.
Could I substitute mango butter for the Shea butter in the other recipes? New to Soap Making!!! Gathering ingredients for my first batch….
Question: Some recipes call for colored clay which I assume is a powder. Your opinion is appreciated. I did find avocado oil and sunflower oil.
Can I substitute one of those oils for palm? I tried the soap calculator without luck lol. Please help!
You can substitute tallow beef fat directly for palm oil, but there are no other direct substitutions. As someone fairly new to soap making I am scared to death of lye so prefer to make it with melt and pour. Can the recipes above be made with melt and pour please and if so how would I work out quantities? Thanks so much x. Cold and Hot process soaps create soap from scratch :.
Thank you very much for seeing good information. I realize unrefined will have a coconut scent to it, but as far as consistency in the recipe will they react similarly? For instance, can I use unrefined coconut oil in your simple 3-oil soap recipe? Thank you for your time! Unrefined Virgin coconut oil may have no extra scent at all in the final soap. You can choose to use it but in my humble opinion, unrefined is much better for cooking than using in soap. Both saponify just fine but I do recommend using refined coconut oil for soap making.
Another oil that I prefer using the refined version is shea butter. I am trying some of your recipes, and some call for distilled water, and some just clean cold water. Would it make a difference if I used cold, filtered instead of distilled? If your water is soft and you filter it, it should be fine to use.
I am looking to purchase lye and I see different purity percentages. The others may be adulterated with unwanted or unsafe ingredients. How can I make a soap that will really focus on the properties of the extract and not the oils? Your reply could really be a huge help thank you! Now is the curing thing just when you create the base like this or do you have to wait for it to cure when you have a premade soap base as well? These instructions are for cold-process soap, and it always needs curing.
Such an interesting guideline for those who want to make their soap creation. I love this receipe. It helps beginers to start making soap easily. By explaining step by step process of soap making, they will achieve their first soap. Thrilled to have found you Tanya. I noticed on the herbal soap recipe you mention using either fresh chopped or dry herbs. I do not want to make a batch and have a fail…like end up with browned specks in it from the fresh herbs having turned off colour. I did have a batch of rose soap I decorated with buds and sadly turned off colour.
I plan to make a batch of herbal soap and wondering if should dehydrate my herbs first. Can you share your experience please? Blessed, Nora. Hi Nora, anything that is leafy and green including herbs and spinach, will eventually turn brown to yellow when mixed into soap. Your recipes look lovely. I am new to soap making and would like to add that even newbies should find a good lye calculater and use it for every recipe. Thank you for sharing these recipes. I was hoping to see the recipe for the beautiful purple soap st the beginning of this pin..
I am new to and excited to try soapmaking. What a fun opportunity. Instead, use a good organic melt-and-pour or remill your soap and add the berry juice to it instead of water. I just happened to stumble on your website. I love your recipes and video on soap making. Do you have any video and recipes on making soap using a soap base? You are amazing, love your recipes. I would love some fragrance but also like the minimalist recipe….
Just a note of thanks. You also have a mistake? Your essential oil recipe says lemon balm but your ingredient list calls for peppermint! Cheers for that, just a little typo in the soap description. You could of course use lemon balm Melissa essential oil instead of peppermint too. I have a question about blending the ingredients. I dont now which compounds shoud use at first, second and etc. Please help me dear. I have a question, I love your Lemongrass recipe! Can I just exchange the colour and the essential oils and use and repeat the recipe? Some common essential oils that you can use the same quantity in are: lavender, peppermint, rosemary, litsea cubeba, and geranium. I am very new to soap making but I have already experimented in making my own cosmetics and I regularly make my own lip balms for myself and presents.
I already have a few supplies and organic oils and essential oils. I would love to try a soap recipe with using what I already have. Is this essential oil
interchangeable? Or is it recommended in this recipe because it has certain properties to make this a successful soap? Could I switch it for organic peppermint essential oil for example? Hi Lisa — the grapefruit seed extract acts as an antioxidant and helps give your soap a longer shelf life.
Happy soaping :.
I also saw that you had mentioned that GSE is very helpful to keep soaps from going rancid : I found it cheaply online in the end. I have been eager to make soaps for years but I moved around often so I never got all the materials together. Now I have relocated from Canada to southern France and have a wonderful garden going and your blog matches my lifestyle very well! I am pretty obsessed with my dehydrator and have been drying everything I can get my hands on — including lots of wild flowers. I am pretty surrounded by wild flax and elderberry in my area, I am curious if anyone has tried either of those out in soaps?
I also think Alkanet may be in my area so I need to explore that option for dyes too! Anyway — a big thank you for sharing your wealth of information I am not a blog person at all normally! Your new life in France sounds amazing Lisa! Enjoy every moment of it : Sorry to hear of your bees — was it the asian hornet that attacked them? Is it on a commercial scale? Happy soaping! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I am thinking about trying to do soaps for myself and your page is full of valuable information. I am from India Tamilnadu. Can we use sesame oil Gingelly oil rather using olive oil.
Please suggest. The scent of oils stays in the finished soap recipe. You can use sesame seed oil but do take this into consideration. Hello Are you okay? Hello Tanya. Superfat can be a difficult idea to understand, especially in the SoapCalc. All it means is the percentage of oils that exceed the amount the lye needs to be completely used up. Any or all of the oils in your SoapCalc recipe can be your superfat. There are at least two ways to go about creating a superfatted soap.
The first is to expose ALL the oils in your recipe to the lye solution. What happens in this case is that a proportion of each of the oils you use will end up staying in your bars as unsaponified oil. If you want a particular oil to be your sole superfat, then you hold back the oil until the very end.
That way, the lye interacts with the oils you want it to, and when you pour your superfat oil in at Trace, it will stick around without turning into soap.
Hope this explanation helps. Thank you very much, Tanya, for your explanation. As for first way i understand. If you do, the chance that these oils will stay in your soap as the superfatting oil is higher. If you put all your oils in the pan before the lye-solution so before before you even start stick blending then your superfat in your final bars will be a little of each oil from your recipe. Does this make sense? Tanya, thanks for this very comprehensive and useful article.
Can I make a half recipe to begin with? Another question — can I use ALL palm oil? Hi Nandita, An all palm oil soap would not be a good recipe because it would be neither bubbly or cleansing. As for half recipes — yes you can. Be prepared to stir by hand for at least an hour to hit trace though. I just made my second batch of soap: Coconut, olive, shea butter and castor oil. Upon rereading your website I realized I needed to also add an antioxidant. Will my soap go rancid? It will probably be fine Marlene. I want to make a small amount. I have coconut oil, caster oil and olive oil my lye but no idea what quantities to use. Please help , Julie. Hi Julie! Once you have the percentages in, click the radio button on the other side of the percentages column — it will be lbs, oz, or g. Then at the top under number 2, select your preferred value and put the total weight of the batch size you want to make.
Love all the information in your blog. Starting my own adventure in soap making. If you put the shea butter in with your hard oils then your soap will have a superfat of all the oils in your recipe. Thank you so much for all the information! I love your nature oriented life style and admire you for it. I was wondering if the soap recipes can be doubled or tripled. Thank you Diana : In regards to doubling or tripling batches — absolutely. Just be aware that the tracing time will take a little bit longer with larger batches. However, in the Part 4 you say not to have any sugars, such as honey, in the lye solution as it can result in a mini explosion. At what point would you add the honey? Is it once the water and lye have been mixed together and the lye is cooling down? Many thanks :. What do you think would be best?
Thanks again! When you have sugars in your soap recipe like honey , your soap will naturally become hotter once its poured into the moulds. Hi Jana! Yes do add the honey to your lye water to get a rich brown colour for the Honey, Oats, and Beeswax soap. Hope this helps :. Hi, I noticed all the recipies require pomace olive oil!! Thank you for a great series of articles — I have been making soap for a couple of years just for my own use and to give to family as presents — I have been thinking about maybe selling them. You must have been though this process Just wondered if you could share your experience and offer any pointers or a good cheap tester — many thank for a great resource.
I fortunately had my soap recipes certified before it started getting too expensive. These days yes, it can be pricey depending on how many variations you have in mind. The best advice I can give you is to get in touch with a reputable EU certified chemist and get a quote. Your website is a fantastic resource for us soap makers. Thank you for being so generous in passing on your knowledge. I have a question that follows on from this query. You use I think herbs and flowers you have grown in your garden. Thanks again for an amazing web site. I get lots of inspiration from it!
Years ago I spoke to the chemist who does my own safety assessments about this very thing. It is perfectly fine to use your own homegrown herbs and flowers in handmade soap.
Each harvest should have a batch number, harvest date and a MSDS sheet. Also make sure that you have that ingredient included in your safety assessment and to stick by the maximum usage percentage. Just wanted to clarify for others incase they found the same thing. Thank you for your lovely instructions I have a question. I am unable to find palm oil. Do you know if there is a substitute in your lavender soap recipe? Palm oil is fairy easy to find in bulk food shops or wholesalers. Sustainably sourced is more difficult! A very easy substitute is beef tallow but if you wish to make a vegetarian soap then a new recipe will be needed. This is a wonderfully well written and researched series of articles. Just what I was looking for.
The only thing I am confused about is the oils in making my own recipes. And does this include the superfatting oils? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!! Those first two will make up the bulk of most soap recipes.
Superfat oil — this is an area that the soap calc does need work in my opinion. What I do is take the percentage of oil that I want superfatted out and set that aside. The lye can only combine with so much oil so whatever is left after will superfat your bars no matter if you add it in with the lye or at the end. The reason you would set aside a specific superfat oil for the end is to stop it from combining with the lye and becoming soap itself.
Thank you for your wonderful, easy-to-follow tutorials! Do you think the quantity required would be similar? You could use purple mica as well but be careful about the proportions. I have now made 4 batches of soap and am well on my way to being dangerously addicted ; Christmas presents are sorted for this year haha!
Firstly, I bought a silicone mould with 12 individual bars instead of a loaf, and am struggling to get it to gel. Ought that to be hot enough for individual moulds? I also have a question about trace. It seems different soapmakers have preferences as to whether they blend to light, medium or full trace before pouring. I am just wondering what difference this makes to the final soap? Thanks again for your wonderful wealth of knowledge : If I lived in the UK I would so come to one of your classes!! If you have a wooden box that the mould and towels will fit in, all the better! Thicker trace is also preferred by soap makers who like to create textures on the tops of their bars, fluffy meringue-like spikes and the like. I have been reading your 4 part series and noticed where you mentioned antioxidants you mentioned using either Grapefruit seed extract or rosemary oleoresin extract, however in all the recipes it lists using vitamin E or Grapefruit seed extract.
Is vitamin E an acceptable antioxidant to use and can you use the powdered form or liquid form? Vitamin E is also an antioxidant so you can use it as well. Use a high quality liquid form — many bottles of inexpensive Vitamin E are mainly carrier oil and contain very little of vitamin e. Thank you so much! I have decided to try my hand at soapmaking and this info is by far the best and most informative that I have found.
I have a lot of frozen goats milk that I would like to use in my soap. I do not want to use Palm oil or Tallow. I would like to stick with coconut oil, olive oil, shea butter, beeswax and goats milk. Is this doable? What are your suggestions? For the honey and beeswax recipe, when should the beeswax be added? Is it melted with the other oils or added separately? You can add it with your other oils to melt down or afterwards — either works. Personally I think adding the wax during the melting phase is better since beeswax is better used to harden bars rather than moisturise the skin.
Could you update your post to reflect the corrected link — if it still exists? Thanks for sharing your work! I have just made the honey and oat soap you have posted in this page. I only realised toward the end, that I had mixed all the oils together, instead of leaving the superfatting oil aside to mix at light trace.
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