Standard Operating Procedures 2

1

Standard

Operating

Procedures

for

Manufacturing

units

1. Order Cycle

External Entities Production Process

Technical & Production

Planning Sampling

2. Production Flow Chart

Technical Package of style handed By the Merchandising Department

Along with the T & A Plan.

Production Technical Q/A Stores Packing Cutting Washing

Fabric & Trims In house as per T & A.

Stores issue G.R.N Within 24 working hrs.

10% Inspection by Q/A department.

Report to be submitted within 48 hrs. Trim Inspection.

Fabric Inspections.

Shade Band

100% 10% Shrinkage. 10% Fabric,4 Point system

Fabric issued to Cutting as per cut Sheet quantity.

All Samples should be Approved..

Fit / Proto Sample.

Contract Seal Sample.

Size Set/Rack Sample Shading.

Width Skewin

g. Defects.

Pilot Run of 100 Units.

Merchandising will issue Cutting Plan & Cut Sheet.

Bulk Fabric Laying & Cutting.

Lay Sheet to be circulated Daily.

Merchandiser. Production

Manager.

Fusing & Assorting.

In put. Loading Plan by Production Manager. Out Put

Sewing In Line Check. Final Line Checking.

Production Status Circulated at 10.00 A.M

Final Inspection 24 hrs prior to delivery Date.

Exportation of Garments.

Washing Finishing Trimming

Final Checking. Pressing Packing. Reconciliation Within 24 hrs. Cost Finished Goods. Fabric.

3. Sampling

3.1 Objective:

• The throughput time for sample making should be 3 days from cut date. • To manufacture shirts 100% as per customer requirements.

• Storage and presentation of patterns , samples , trims & fabric wirh proper identification status for easy retreival.

• To ensure that for all wash codes shrinkages are analysed roll wise either on a sample lot or 100% roll based on customer requirement and multiple shrinkage patterns are drawn where required.

• To ensure that the samples are produced keeping in mind the responsibility of the same in bulk and highlighting to customer if their specification cannot be met in bulk.

3.2 Process flow chart Process Flow Sampling

The sample Room is the “Heart” of any Apparel Manufacturing Organization. Hence it is utmost important to the Sample room in charge to ensure high quality Samples within a very short lead-time is submitted & approved by Buyer. Ensure your work force is adequate to meet the ever-growing demand of samples.

After receiving the Tech pack, Study carefully & revert back within 8 hours for queries.

As soon as a new tech pack is received, sampling dept. should submit the Mini markers to the Marketing division & if any changes occur during the process, the revised Mini marker should be presented immediately if the reason for revision is valid. Further as a norm, once the mini marker is submitted to a certain styling, The same yield or less should be maintained for the bulk production as well.

As Intimated above, No Sample is to be cut without the patterns had been checked against the spec sheet along with the Pattern maker.

All non-wash Garments should be submitted within 3 days Maximum & wash Garments should be submitted within 4 days.

Samples to be made in the sample room

• Development Sample • Salesman samples • Fit Samples

• Pre production samples • Testing samples

• Size set

The sample room is not to make any T.O.P Sample or Shipment sample. These samples should be submitted by the Q/A department & produced in the Production floor.

The sample room should always maintain a Mini Stores, which should include Fabric yardage, Zippers, Buttons Thread, buttons, Labels & Tags pertaining to all styles. Once the Pre Production sample is approved, the size set should be submitted for all styles & the final Graded pattern would be made. Strictly no pattern revision is to be made after approval of size set without the approval of Sample room In-charge & the concerned Merchandiser.

The Approved Pre production sample should be handed over to the R & D Department during the P.P. meeting.

The Sample room should always cross check all the Shrinkages (Thermal, Cut, Steam, Washing, Fusing) of the fabric before making samples & adjust patterns accordingly. All reports / tech pack / manuals etc, should be documented & maintained.

A reference sample should always be kept in house as a representative of any sample, which is submitted, to Buyers. This is utmost important & should be kept in the sample room.

3.3 Sample Stages

:

3.3.1 Development/ Proto

1. The purpose of making a development sample for a buyer is to check for the look of the style.

2. Receive sampling Indent and fabric 3. Develop pattern for the style.

4. Sample Cutting should be done as per the required numbers with the available fabric and pattern.

5. Sample sewing: The samples are stitched with available fabric and trims. 6. Checking

7. Finishing and Packing 8. Sending for approval 9. Receive the comments

a. If passed then proceed to next stage with comments if any (new indent to be issued)

b. If rejected then redo the sample as per comments (new indent to be issued).

3.3.2 Fit sample

1. Receive sampling Indent 2. Fabric treatment

3. Pattern making/ correction

Rest all stages same as Development except that during checking it is now checked for measurements and fit.

3.3.3 Pre production Sample/ Sealer/ Gold Seal

The purpose of making a pre production Sample is to check for the actual fabric and trims and style.

Input: Comments on Fit sample, shrinkage report. The process remains same as the previous stage.

This is like a sealer for the production, so whatever changes if need to be done, should be made before this stage.

So, the sample should be looked for production feasibility before this.

3.3.4 Size Set

The purpose is to check all sizes for measurements based on the graded spec.

The process remains same as the previous stage except that the graded spec is required and checked in each stage.

4. Research & Development

4.1 Objective

: -

4.2 Interfacing Departments

4.2.1Planning

• Sending the samples for SMV and Thread consumption calculation • Pilot loading plan and priorities (Annexure- 2)

4.2.2 Merchandising:

• Merchandiser issues the work order to stores to open the bales and send for shrinkage testing.

• Sends the PP sample and comments to pattern master.

• Giving the requirement for pilot if needed and how many samples are required. 4.2.3 IED • SMV • Thread consumption • Layout • Operation bulletin • Manpower allocation

4.3 Process Flow Pilot Run

Receipt of file and PP sample Receipt of shrinkage report

Pattern amendment and grading for base pattern Making hard pattern

Pattern checking and Issue to pilot run Getting fabric issued for required number of pcs Cutting (manual)

Checking cut panels Loading and sewing

Pieces ready Checking before wash measurements

Washing

Checking after wash measurements Report given to

master

Pattern amendment and grading

Cutting one size set (manual) Cutting 100/ 200 pcs (straight knife/ autocutter)

Checking cut panels Loading and sewing

Pieces ready Checking before wash measurements

Washing

Checking after wash measurements Report given to

master

Pattern amendment

Checking cut panels Loading and sewing

Pieces ready Checking before wash measurements

Washing

Checking after wash measurements Report given to

master Pilot offered Proceed for bulk cutting Amendment Receive comments

4.4 Purpose

:

The purpose of making pilot is to see how the fabric will behave when constructed in a garment during bulk production.

It is the representation of the bulk. It has to be done in actual fabric and actual sewing trims.

A Pilot lot is a small cut across all sizes and colors, which will identify any potential problem in manufacturing prior to the factory cutting bulk.

Pilot runs covering all colors & sizes are applied on all styles (even repeat style with different fabrication) except for test orders.

Pilot run garments are carefully assessed on construction, making up method, machines used, measurement, washing & pressing effect etc., & report is kept for reference.

Necessary adjustment is made on pattern, machinery setting, seam allowance, sewing, washing & pressing methods etc., prior to bulk cutting / production.

The sample size differs from buyer to buyer as follows:

• Express : 3 samples per size covering all sizes in a color i.e. if there are 4 sizes in one color then it accounts for 12 samples per color.

• S. Oliver: 2 samples per size covering all the sizes in a color i.e. if there are four colors and five sizes then it accounts for 40 pcs a pilot.

• Armani Exchange/ Arrow/ Izod (Triburg): 5 samples per size covering all the sizes in a color i.e. if there are four colors and five sizes then it accounts for 100 pcs a pilot.

• M & S/ Esprit: 2 pc per size in all colors i.e. total 12 – 15 pcs in all colors. • Tommy Hilfieger: 4 pcs in M size for all colors and doing jumping sizes in all

colors. The requirement is minimum 25 pcs per pilot. • Marc O’ Polo: 2 pcs per size in jumping colors. • Monoprix: 2 pcs per size.

• Levis Dockers/ Levis Signature : 3 pcs per size in all jumping colors.

This ultimately will ensure that bulk production will not be affected and that mistakes if any will be made and corrected during the Pilot.

Pilot lots are cut for the following reasons:

• It might be that factory is working on a new fabric type that it has not handled before, therefore handling and machine settings must be looked at and set accordingly.

• New construction methods. • New machinery, or new settings

• Ensure that shrinkage allowances built into patterns are correct for steam shrinkage, washing shrinkage or any other after treatment standard.

• Early T.O.P. approval. If there are no issues with the first Pilot cutting then the factory will automatically have garments to send for approval.

This must be looked at as opportunity to find and iron out problems before bulk rather than just another procedure. To standardize this process all sizes and colors have to cut across a specified quantity. The assessment form must be filled in and counter signed by a management, to ensure that all areas have been analyzed with a specified course of action needed for bulk.

4.5 The working of the pilot department is as follows

:

After the PP sample is approved with some comments, it is handed over to pattern section for making the patterns. The patterns are amended and graded. The required shrinkage is added lengthwise and width wise and then issued for subsequent processes. Style file contains all the critical details about a particular style. The file build depends on the buyer. But primarily file includes following details.

Manual Work Order PO Sheet

Bill Of Materials Tech Pack

Buyer Comments

Pre production meeting comments

Fabric swatch(shade band, wash standards & hand feel) Approved Trim card

Fabric/accessories/garment test report Standard procedure

The pilot is cut and made in the required rolls of decided shrinkage.

Pattern Amendment

According to the fabric shrinkage report, the required shrinkage is added to already graded patterns. The hard pattern for base size is then prepared and issued to pilot section for cutting.

Pattern review

The pattern is reviewed. On the basis of shrinkage, before and after wash measurements are prepared.

Fabric Issues

Making the base size

The base size “M” is then cut in each color and loaded in line for sewing. As soon as the pieces are ready, they are reviewed for before wash measurements and construction and sent for wash if required and after required ironing/ pressing, the samples are reviewed for after wash shrinkage.

Pattern amendment and issues

If the actual after wash measurements are not tallying with the required measurements, the pattern needs to be amended. The report is given to the master and accordingly after correcting the patterns, the hard patterns are prepared.

Making the size set

The extreme sizes (i.e. S and XXL for sizes S to XXL) in all colors are cut and stitched. After washing (if needed) and ironing the size sets are reviewed. If any discrepancy is there the report is given again for pattern amendment.

Based on these two steps, the patterns are finalized and then issued for cutting pilot.

Pilot Cutting

The marker for approximately 200 pcs across all the colors is then issued for cutting. Depending upon the requirement, the full cut parts are taken from these cut lay and loaded in the pilot line. The balance cut parts are taken for loading in and setting the decided production line. (Annexure –3)

Outsourced process

As per the requirement for embroidery/ printing or in case of any outsourced process, the panels are cut and sent outside with markings and other instructions.

Pilot Sewing

The actual trims and threads are used for making the pilot. The operation breakdown for a style is done by the I.E. dept. along with the machinery requirement and layout. The stitching is done by experienced operators under the supervision of trainers. The whole stitching process is monitored by the technical manager so as to get a fair idea of how to set the process for the bulk. Each operation is critically analyzed and assessed so as to get maximum productivity from the assembly lines in the bulk

operations help the operators in the sewing lines for critical operations and thus minimize the area under learning curve (reduces learning time).

Taking before wash measurements

The master gives the before wash and after wash measurement sheet. The before wash measurements are reviewed by the QC and in case of any discrepancy, it is immediately brought in notice of the master. At this time the pieces are also checked for any quality defects.

Outsourced process

If the embroidery/ print has to be done after garment is made, it is sent for embroidery/ print with all the markings as per specifications.

Taking After wash measurements

After the pieces are received from washing, it is ironed as per the specification i.e. clean press/ flat press/ only steam or no steam, no iron. These are then reviewed for measurements and quality. The reports are handed over to master for immediate pattern correction for bulk.

4.6. Reports given by pilot department

Giving comments and amendments. The QA gives the following reports: 1. Measurement report (Annexure 4)

2. Pilot comment sheet (Annexure 5) 3. Amendment sheet (Annexure- 6)

4.7. Pilot decision and Offer

The decision has to be taken by the section head and the QA as to if the pilot is passed and can be offered to the buyer. If the pilot needs to be redone, immediately action needs to be taken for pattern amendment, cutting, stitching and sending for wash. The pieces are offered to the buyer along with all the following:

• Style file • PP sample • Patterns

• Shrinkage report

• Before and afterwash measurement report. • Pilot Comment sheet

• Amendment sheet.

4.8. Receiving comments from buyer

The pilot is offered to the buyer and the comments given are incorporated into the bulk.

The comments regarding workmanship is explained and discussed in the handover meeting.

4.9. Proceed for bulk

5. Industrial Engineering Procedures

5.1 Process Flow

The general process flow is as follows:

Samples from the planning department Operation bulletin

SMV calculation and setting the targets Thread consumption

Line balancing and operator allocation Line layout plan

5.2 Work Measurement.

Work Measurement ( Time Study ) is an Integral part in the Manufacture of Garments. It is utmost necessary for any Manufacturing unit to have this department in house at full function, As it lends a supportive hand on many aspects as follows, The provision of standard times for separate operations & complete process allows better planning for the manufacture of Garment, by encouraging a conscious numerical analysis before designing operations & process. This will enable to maintain an improved level of productivity which would enable to meet Buyers dead lines on a regular manner.

This system would enable the management to segregate its work force in a productive manner which would be an effect on the CM ( Cut & Making of the Garment ), Where excess & non productive workers could be utilized for other operations.

This system enables the management for a proper comparison between operations & workers,& the worker productivity.

Time study supplies an essential item of information for making Investment decisions as well. By working out this system, The management could Invest on Hi-tech Machinery which would analyze the cost of labor.

Work study provides a sounder basis for Incentive payment schemes to workers, because it allows comparisons to be made between individual operators on the same task entrusted.

5.3 Time study procedures

.

Time study procedure may conveniently be analyzed under four headings.. • Defining the operation to be timed.

• Timing each element using a stop watch. • Rating.

• Allowances or ex gratia

5.4. Receive sample from Merchandising Dept.

• Analyze the sample & prepare “ Operational Break down”.

• Assign required M/C, Folders, Work Aids, SMV & Target within 8 working hours.

• Check available work aids & confirm the availability. • Refer “Data Base” to assign SMV.

• Use “CMA” package to calculate SMV for new operations which is not in the data base.

• Calculate the total SMV for the garment & submit to the merchandising dept within 8 working hrs.

• Draw garments tree diagram according to critical path by using the PC.

• Participate with the sample room during making of samples to analyze the styling in detail.

• Check the practicalities of all operations & ways to minimize operations & M/C.

• Prepare “ Critical Operation Analysis” report. • Prepare operational lay out plan for sewing section.

• Discuss production schedule & manning allocations with Production Manager. • Lay out systems & special technical points.

• Prepare lay out as per critical path.

• Use M/C requirement list for manning, basic pitch time & target calculation. • Check complete lay out with production assistance & discuss with relevant

depts.

• Submit M/C lay out Mechanic.

• Participate in “Pre production meeting”. • Analyze workers performance records.

• Ensure the submitted SMV is achieved always during production & ways of reducing SMV.

• The request is received from the planning department along with the PP sample. The garment is studied and broken down into individual operations and time is allocated to each operation, based on which the following are calculated.

5.4.1. SMV Calculation

SMV (Standard Minute Value) calculations are done based on pre-determined standard motion studies. The Style is being broken in to individual operations and the time for each operation is determined. The machines used for completing the style is also determined. The SMVs calculated are listed in a operation Bulletin and the total target is determined based on the total work-stations required.

Encl: Operation Bulletion-Annexure 7

5.4.2. Thread Consumption

The thread consumption for the garment is calculated based on the operation breakdown. The factor is multiplied with the length of seam for each operation.

S.No. Type of M/c Thread factor/cm Thread Wastage

Details of Thread

Needle Bobbin Looper Total

1 SNLS 3 2 1 1 2 2 DNLS 6 2 2 2 4 3 OL(3T) 19 3 1 2 3 4 OL(5T) 24 3 2 3 5 5 F.O.A 14 3 2 2 4 6 B.H 60 NW 1 1 2 7 BUTTON 25 NW 1 1 2 8 BARTACK 30 NW 1 1 2 9 PINTUCK(PER Stitch) 7 3 1 2 3 10 PICOATING 35 3 2 4 6 11 KANSAI 14 3 2 2 4 12 FLAT-LOCK 33 3 2 1 3 13 BLIND STITCH 2" 1 1 2 14 KEY-HOLE 50 NW 1 6 7

5.4.3. Line Lay-Out (Annexure 8 )

The total floor-layout is drawn to have a proper process flow for each department from cutting to Finishing.

5.4.4. Technical Lay-Out (Annexure 9)

The technical Lay-out is drawn based on the operation bulletin and the flow of work process. The allocation of the work-stations is based on the SMVs and capacity of the operators. The total process flow is drawn and the targets are set based on the total available work-stations.

The technical layout also contains the type of folders and attachments to be used.

5.5. Technical spec detail sheet (Annexure 10)

The R & D department should give the technical spec detail sheet, which contains all the details regarding the style.

It includes the following: • Order qty • Style description • Fabric details • Cutting details • Sewing details • Sewing trims • Process flow • Special instructions

5.6. Risk Analysis

There are risks associated with manufacturing processes which can result in failure of the product, either in production or in use by the customer. Understanding and militating against these risks at the design stage is fundamental to the success of the product. By assessing the risks sufficiently early in the design process, delays in production and right first time products can be achieved.

The factory must carry out some kind of Risk Analysis process (e.g. a meeting which includes members of the key production departments)

The factory must be able to demonstrate that the procedure is understood and can identify potential risks with raw materials, process methods, equipment, storage, end user safety.

5.6.1 Risk Analysis procedure

Quality and safety must be designed, planned and built into the product. It is sometimes difficult to foresee all the possible modes of failure allowing for all the conditions of use or indeed misuse. Without a systematic approach, it is likely that some element will be missed resulting in a failure and possible injury to the wearer. This risk analysis procedure is designed to provide that opportunity to identify and forestall those potential hazards. By examining each design or process in detail and identifying the effects of failure, together with possible causes, it is possible to propose actions to introduce controls to reduce the failure rate and/or minimise the impact of a failure.

When considering potential failure it is important to have access to data relating to failures which occurred on similar components/ assemblies in the past.

Risk analysis should be a team activity relying on input from experienced personnel; a typical team would consist of design, development, industrial engineer, production manager and quality manager. The completed risk analysis should then be circulated to relevant departments with a request for comments. It is important to obtain feedback from all departments so they may, from their own unique experience, have

the opportunity to suggest other potential failure modes which the team carrying out the analysis may not have considered.

5.6.2 Analysis

The analysis will consider all areas of potential failure and establish preventative actions, which may include special test requirements, inspection recommendations, preventative maintenance or operational constraints. The analysis starts with the most basic component and works progressively through the complete system. It is essential to ensure that every selected component, sub-assembly and design feature within the product is adequately covered by the analysis. The person responsible for the Risk Analysis, ideally senior production managers, should ensure that all recommendations resulting from the analysis are carried out. The Risk analysis is documented using a standards form, attached, which is designed to guide the team to ask the correct questions and effectiveness of the analysis will depend of their accurate completion of this form.

The procedure (Annexure 11)

1. Clearly identify every component being studied, including assemblies and sub-assemblies.

2. Describe the purpose of the component or assembly. This is very helpful in identifying the possible models of failure.

3. Anticipate and describe the possible way the part could fail. Consider how the failure could be observed. A safety failure must always be considered more serious than a quality failure.

4. Assume the failure mode has occurred and then describe what the effect would be in terms of what would be noticed. The effects noticed both locally and on the whole should be listed. E.g. the colour bleeds off the product and contaminates accessory. There could be more than one effect and the same effect could apply to a number of failures.

5. List every potential cause of failure for each of the failure modes as the design currently stands. There is a low risk if potential failure is certain to be detected before the product reached the customer, and high risk of it would be impossible to detect the potential failure before the product reaches the

additional controls at an earlier stage so that a potential failure is more easily detectable.

6. Recommend corrective action. The action required to correct a possible failure should be clearly stated. If an action has already been taken it is helpful to record the current status.

7. Identify the most appropriate person for implementing the recommended action.

8. Document the action taken. In every case where recommended action is required state what action has been taken to eliminate the cause of failure, reduce the degree of severity; reduce the probability of its occurrence.

6. Fabric & Trim Stores

6.1 Objectives:

• GIR to GRN through put time <7 days.

• Ensure no short supply of fabric. Trims before bulk production • No stock out on consumables.

• Approval of trims to sought before bulk production.

6.2 Process Flow

6.3 Pre-Fabric Receive Activities

The monthly planner for fabric in-house should come to the store in-charge with the weekly updates and changes should be communicated at the very instant of the occurrence.

The fabric purchase team should make sure to in-house the planned initial yardages of the fabric at least before 20 days to carry out pilot run and for bulk maximum 8-10 days. The necessary follow-up in reading should be done by the store in-charge.

If in case fabric is late by the planned date for receiving then the same should be intimated to the planning, cutting, and merchandiser so that the necessary priority can be changed and required follow up can be done.

For making the packing slip either of the following is required.

1. Fabric end bits should be received from the supplier prior to fabric in-house clearly mentioning the lot no., roll no in reference to their dispatched rolls and meters.

2. Shade cards (Annexure 12) should be received by the fabric purchase team and then same should be given to the fabric inspection team.

3. The invoice or Delivery Chalan copy should have a mill /supplier packing slip having following details: - Roll No., Shade, Meters, Width.

6.4. Fabric Receive:

6.4.1 Unloading the fabric:

Unloading should be done in the presence of fabric in charge/supervisor and person responsible for fabric receive as per the stores structure.

The supplier invoice or the transporters copy of the Delivery Chalan should be checked by the fabric in charge and then unloading should be done in the quarantine area. The bale numbers are counted and cross checked against the supplier’s packing list while unloading and it is verified by the fabric receive person.

If quantity is less then the transporters is informed and recorded on collection advice / Invoice / DC.

The Invoice copy along with fabric swatch should be filed in “Daily fabric receive file” and at the end of the day material inward details should be updated by the fabric receive person.

The information of fabric received against the Purchase No. is informed to the purchase person and the concerned merchandiser.

The packing list should be made which includes roll no. (Supplier roll no), length, width and shade.

How to unload the fabric

Unloading should be done manually.

Maximum of 3 to 4 persons are required in unloading activity.

The unloaded bales from trucks have to be kept on Cart Trolley by 2 Persons. Two persons will move that loaded cart trolley to the quarantine area.

6.4.2

Stacking the bales in quarantine area:

Storing of bales has to be done as per color wise/lot wise by two persons on the wooden palettes.

If in the same lot too much variable meterages are there, and then care should be taken while stacking the rolls, the bigger value of meters should preferably be kept first and then the smaller ones.

In case of meterage folds the fabric should be staked in linear form of one above another. All the fabric bales/roles should be stacked in pyramid form in the quarantine area.

The bales should be covered by the plastic sheets. It is must for meter fold and optional for roll form of fabric because it comes in poly packing.

All lots should have a identification card showing brand name, supplier name, fabric receive date, fabric code, lot no, color and shade no, invoice qt. and total rolls.

Design Approval: The fabric swatch is taken and sent to the concerned merchandiser for the design, and face approval (Annexure 13).

6.4.3 Issuing fabric for Inspection

10 % fabric from each lot and shade is offered for fabric inspection.

In the above 10% fabric the sample rolls will be decided by the random number generator software where the number of rolls received will be input by the fabric inspector. The number of sample rolls will be generated and the same should be taken from packing slip (S. No.) for inspection.

6.4.4 Shrinkage testing (Annexure 14)

The shrinkage should be tested warpwise and weftwise. The shrinkage testing method is as follows:

1. Take the fabric swatch.

2. Mark 25cm X 25 cm on the fabric in the centre excluding the selvedge.

3. Cutting Shrinkage (Only for specific fabric types): Cut the swatch and relax for some time. Measure the swatch again.

4. Note the fabric shrinkage due to cutting.

5. Sewing shrinkage: stitch the four sides using 3 thread overlock. Measure. Check for sewing shrinkage.

6. If it is a wash program, then send for washing.

Make sure to use fillers according to the capacity of the machine. For e.g. for a 5 kg load, if the fabric accounts for half a kg, the balance capacity should be filled with fabric/ garments.

7. The recipe should be exact as required for bulk.

8. Finishing/ ironing shrinkage: Depending on the required Iron/ Press, the swatch is to be steamed/ ironed and then shrinkage is measured.

a. For a non-wash program, the shrinkage will include cutting, sewing and the ironing shrinkage.

b. For a wash program, the shrinkage will include cutting, sewing, washing and ironing shrinkage.

• Depending on the buyer’s requirement, the sample size for shrinkage can be 10% or 100%.

6.4.5 Keeping the fabric in racks after Inspection:

1. When the inspection for a particular lot is completed and the received fabric is “Passed”, the complete lot should be moved to racks width wise.

2. All material movement should be on cart trolley or V-trolley.

3. All the fabric in the racks should have an identification card (bin card) having brand name, fabric code, fabric receive date, lot no, total meters and total rolls.

Make the GRN (Goods Receipt Note) for the passed goods (as per bin card)

(Annexure 15)

All fabric details like continuity cards, shade cards, lab dip reports, shrinkage reports buyer wise should be maintained in the fabric quality department.

Shrinkage testing should be done as per the garment wash.

6.5. PACKING SLIP FORMAT

A packing slip received from supplier or maintained by stores/inspection on advance receives of the bits of the dispatched fabric lot from supplier should follow the

Roll No. Shade Length(Mts) Width(Cms.)

6.6. Inward fabric Quality checking

All the roll color swatches should be separately received so no need to cut fabric bits from the incoming rolls.

If color swatches are not coming separately or no shade card or shade details on supplier’s packing slip, then 10 cm wide bit will be cut from each roll.

Only 10% inspection is sufficient if 10% inspection fails then we can go for 20% inspection and above.

Arrange all the roll swatches both Rigid & W/F per shade grouping and get a prior approval on that from Product Development/Quality Assurance Team & send the same grouped swatches to merchandiser for approval from buyer.

Give the shade details color wise/ lot wise to fabric In-Charge so that it can be updated in the bin card.

6.7. Fabric Inspection

As we will be doing 10% of inspection. The back feeder should get the 10% roll details for inspection Color wise/ Lot wise from the Fabric Stores ( fabric receive) In-Charge ,who in turn will give random rolls no. (Based on random generating software) as described above in issuing fabric for inspection process.

Rolls selected for inspection should be kept in “For Inspection” racks only in Inspection area.

The back feeder with the help of operator should take the rolls from racks without hitting any point of the rack to avoid any damage to fabric.

The back feeder will take roll to inspection table area.

The opened roll should be gently kept on the back feeding roll of inspection m/c by the back feeder with help of operator.

The open end of the fabric roll should be pulled upwards & to be fed to the operator. The operator has to measure the skew ness, fabric width (usable and full width) and other fabric defects noticed during inspection and recorded in the inspection book

(Annexure 16). The points will be awarded on the basis of 4-point system (Annexure 17).

The operator has to roll it partially on to the tube and stick cellophane tape at three/four places of the roll so as to avoid folding.

The inspected roll should be gently kept in the “INSPECTED” rack by the operator with the help of back feeder after wrapping with the plastic wrap and the wrapped roll should be pasted with a sticker with the details of roll no., roll length, shade, color and lot no.

6.8. Fabric Issue

Fabric stores would receive the initial cut plan (Annexure18) (specifying the no. of cuts required to complete that order) from CAD department which clearly mentioned the marker length and width of the fabric. This initial cut plan would be used to plan the fabric issue.

Stores should receive the cutting plan one day prior to plan cut date.

Stores has to issue the fabric along with travelling work order (Annexure 19) & cut no as mentioned in the table plan the fabric store will then issue 3% extra fabric over the length required according to the marker length in the same width as mentioned in the lay sheet.

Issuing racks in the ‘fabric issue’ area of the stores should be divided into table-wise. The fabric for planned cut should be stored in the specified rack as per the table plan width wise and shade wise with clear identification of- Brand, WO no, cut no. Meters issued, width and shade.

6.9. Fabric Issue Procedure to Cutting

This activity is done manually with the help of maximum two to three persons.

As per the plan, all required rolls should be taken out from the concerned rack associated for that particular table.

Preferably all the rolls in the same width should be taken out first and precaution is taken while keeping on the trolley, as different shades should be kept separately. Issuing fabric rolls when taken from racks should be kept on issuing trolleys and then moved to cutting section.

7. Cutting

7.1Objective

: -

7.2 Process Flow

7.3 Cutting Plan

Weekly Cutting Plan

On the basis of the monthly delivery tracker a cutting plan is made for an entire week, which is reviewed on a weekly basis for the accomplishment of the plan and on first day of every week a plan versus actual report is generated for the just concluded week.

Daily Cutting Plan

On receiving the packing list and swatch from the stores the CAD department should make a cut plan of the complete order based on the fabric details (width and shade ) from the stores, the cut plan (Annexure 20) should mention the marker length, number of plies to be used in the along with the width of fabric.

*The packing list contains the information of cutable width of fabric along with the meterage of the fabric available in that width.

From the weekly cutting plan a daily cutting plan is made by keeping WIP status as mentioned in WIP report (Annexure 21) of the assembly lines in consideration.

7.4 Table Plan

The table plan will be generated for the individual spreader for a day on the basis of the daily cutting plan. The table plan (Annexure 22) contains information of different cuts for the styles planned on that day.

The Work order will be given to CAD, which will then divide the whole order quantity into cuts required to clear the complete Work Order quantity and the markers for the individual cut will be made according to the widths of fabric available as mentioned in the packing list of the fabric provided by the fabric stores. These marker length and width will be mentioned on the lay sheet one copy of this is given to the cutting supervisor second copy will be kept in the CAD and the third copy of this lay sheet will be given to fabric stores.

The cutting plan for the day will be made considering the cutting WIP status for the sewing lines. The sewing line having the least WIP will be given the highest priority. Thus the cuts as mentioned in the lay sheet by the CAD will be selected as per the cutting plan for the day. The table plan for an individual table will be made and the

* The cutting plan will be made one day prior to the actual cut date.

7.5 Information sources for cutting planning

7.5.1 Monthly Delivery Tracker

The planning department of the factory prepares the monthly delivery tracker

(Annexure 23); the tracker contains information about different styles that are going

to be manufactured in that specific month in the factory. The information is under following headings

Buyer, Style, Color, Quantity, Delivery Date, PP Status, Trim Status, Fabric Status, Planned Cut Date, etc.

7.5.2 Production Plan

The planning department of the factory prepares the production plan (Annexure 24); this plan contains information about the line allocation to the styles to be manufactured in that specific month in the factory.

7.6.

Whenever a style comes into bulk cutting the hard patterns for bulk production duly signed and sealed by the pattern master has to be issued to the cutting by the pattern master. On receiving the patterns these has to measured and the measurement filled in pattern checking report (Annexure 25) and checked against the specification sheet and if any discrepancy is found, the same has to be reported and informed to the pattern master and necessary corrective actions must be taken.

Whenever a style is cut for the first time the marker generated should be checked against the hard pattern for any possible errors in marker making or printing, one complete garment patterns of the middle size should be checked. The hard patterns will be placed on top of the marker at the respective position and the periphery will be traced and if there is any discrepancy found has to be informed to the CAD as well as cutting.

Stripe marker has to be paired face to face

* The Technical Manager must approve all the markers.

7.7. Marker Ordering

The table plan will be given to the CAD and the CAD will take the print out of the marker on the basis of Work Order no. & cut no as mentioned in the table plan.

The cut that is planned first will have the highest priority and the subsequent cuts will be lower in priority. All the markers must be ready on the same day on which the table plan is given to the CAD.

7.8. Stores Requisition

The table plan thus generated in the previous step will be given to the fabric stores. Based on the WO no & cut no as mentioned in the table plan the fabric store will then issue 3% extra fabric over the length required according to the marker length in the same width as mentioned in the lay sheet.

The cut that is planned first will have the first priority and the subsequent cuts will be lower in priority. All the fabric must be ready on the same day on which the table plan is given to the fabric stores.

7.9. Mock-ups preparation

After the handover meeting of the style to the production floor, the style requirements as discussed in the meeting should be converted into the visual standards (Annexure

26) and displayed at all relevant work stations as guide for the work.

7.10. Laying

Once the table plan is handed over to the laying batch they will lay the cuts mentioned in their table plan in the order as per the table plan.

The laying batch must cross check the width and shade while laying and any discrepancy found should be immediately reported to the laying and cutting supervisor. The laying batch has to ensure the correctness of no of plies as mentioned in the table plan. The laying batch also will fill the spreading sheets the quality checker has to ensure that the spreading sheets (Annexure 27) are being filled properly and completely. During laying the laying batch has to follow the work instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for normal table laying

(Annexure 28) or pin table laying (Annexure 29) as the case may be.

At the start of the lay the quality checker has to check for the face side of the fabric and educate the layer about the same also he has to check for one way fabric and pattern requirement in garment and instruct the layers accordingly. After the completion of lay he must check it for quality and must document the same in the lay checking report (Annexure 30).

Defect marking should be done at the laying stage using a contrast colour fabric stripe.

7.11. Cutting

Once the laying is complete and quality checker has checked its quality only then the cutting has to commence. The cutter has to take the spreadsheet and write their name and sign it in case of straight knife cutting and in case of a lay being cut on auto cutter a separate log of the cuts being processed by the auto cutter has to maintained by the auto cutter operator. During the process of cutting the cutter has to follow the work instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for straight knife cutting

(Annexure 31) or auto cutter cutting (Annexure 32) as the case may be.

In case of block cutting of components or interlining the cutting has to be done by band knife. For band knife cutting the cutter has to follow work instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for band knife cutting (Annexure 33).

Pin table should be used for all check fabric cutting.

Ticketing (numbering) should be done on the same cutting table.

The cut panel having contrast colour stripe should be inspected

before ticketing for the defects.

7.11.1 Cutting Storage Procedure

All the cut components from one cut should be stored in one baker’s trolley. The cutting helper has to ensure that no mixing of the parts takes place while placing the cut components in the trolley.

The cutting helper has to pick up cut components from the cutting table in case of straight knife cutting and from the auto-cutter bed in case of auto-cutter cutting and place them in an empty baker’s trolley. The work instructions as mentioned the work instruction sheet for cut component storage (Annexure 34).

Numbering Plan

A continuous numbering plan (Annexure 35) is made for a Work Order in that Work Order no two garments will be given the same number. From the lay sheets a numbering plan is made say sizes were s1 s2 s3 s4 and no of plies were 100. Then s1 will be given number from 1-100, s2 will be given number from 101-200, s3 will be given number from 201-300 and size s4 will be given number 301-400.

7.13. Bundling

Separate bundles are to be made for following parts Front

Front bundle will have both left and right front, front placket and pocket. Back

Back bundle will contain back panel and both top and bottom yoke. Sleeve

Sleeve bundle will have the both sleeves, top sleeve placket and under sleeve placket. Collar, cuff and neckband

This bundle will have both top and bottom panels of collar, cuff and neckband. The bundle size to be used is 20-25.

7.13.1 Bundle Cards

Bundle cards are tied to every bundle and these contains following information Bundle no WO No Style No Cut No Size Qty Serial No

The bundle cards are also color coded such that every size has their unique color of bundle card for easy identification at all the times. These color codes are mentioned in the bundle card color code sheet (Annexure 36).

7.14. Fusing Procedures

Fusing has to be carried out as per the conditions specified by the interlining supplier, every four hours one sample of the fused component has to sent for washing and peel bond strength testing and also the testing of the temp, pressure and time has to be carried out. In case of failure on any of these all the bundles fused in last 4 hours on that machine has to be recalled and refused. During fusing the fusing operator has to follow work instructions as mentioned in the work instructions sheet for fusing

(Annexure 37).

7.14.1

Testing procedures for fusing

Testing procedure for various test mentioned above are as follows

Temperature

Using three thermo-paper strips take the temperature across the width of the press or machine belt.

Check and record the temperature with the recommended speed and fusing time. The press will need to be adjusted if variation of more than 5°C below or 10°C above the recommended fusing temperature is recorded.

Time

Check time with a stopwatch for the actual period for which temperature and pressure is applied on the fused composite.

Washing

Carry out durability wash test daily on the fused components per fabric per color.

Peel Bond Strength

Use three strips of fabric, each15x5cms, placed evenly across the belt, position the Fusing

Wash testing, temperature testing, pressure testing, time testing

Issue to sewing lines

Set the recommended fusing conditions for bulk production and allow it to cool. Conduct peel bond strength test

Ensure an even bond and acceptable peel bond strength before production.

Fusing – all Interlining fusing has to be ready finished(block cut) a. Woven interlining – Sewing allowance to be ¼”.

b. Non fusible woven -

----do---All the interlining pattern has to be aligned with shell pattern 1/8" less all around

For order size more than 2000 pcs for lining cutting die should be used.

7.15. Outsourcing Procedure

Incase of an outsourced process like embroidery, printing, etc. keep a style wise record for pieces sent for the outsourced process and the pieces that are received from the outsource process.

When the material comes back from the outsourced process into the cutting section check it for the correct pattern or shape of the embroidery or printing. Also check for the placement of the print/embroidery if it is found correct only then this has to be loaded to the sewing lines, other wise sort the pieces that are correct and load only correct pieces to the sewing lines for rest carry out re-cutting and send for embroidery or printing again. The information of the incorrect pieces has to be sent to concerned merchandiser as well as the organization that has done that process.

7.16. Cutting Issue Procedure

The planning department makes loading plan, it contains information about the style no. and quantity to be loaded/ issued to the sewing line on a particular day. This plan is given a day in advance to the actual loading date, once the loading plan is received the individual batch leaders will then make arrangement for making ready the loading for the sewing lines that they are responsible for.

Only the cutting that has been passed by the quality department can be moved into sewing lines and for the cutting not passed by the quality department has to be corrected for the defect found in the cutting before loading it to the sewing lines. The sewing line supervisor must acknowledge the cutting for quantity by signing on the bundle card at the designated place.

All the operators will have to follow the work instructions pertaining to the operation that he/ she are carrying out.

8. Sewing Floor

8.1 Operations Hierarchy:

Flowchart 1:

V.P. Operations

Factory Manager

Floor Manager Floor Manager Floor Manager Floor Manager Floor Manager

Floor In charge Line ………. …….. …… …… Supervisor Quality controller Line feeder Operators

8.3 Objective

:

Producing an optimum quality product, setting the process as a benchmark for the whole garment manufacturing industry.

Floor operations are divided in to 3 parts

8.4 Pre sewing operations:

Pre sewing operation includes all the operations, which are required to be executed in order to make the sewing operation flawless and make the work flow smooth.

8.4.1 Production planning

Production plan is crucial for the effective planning of resources in order to execute production efficiently. Production planning includes the allocation of the job to use the resources available to maximum extent.

To achieve the desired level of productivity, processes should be set as per the following guidelines given by Industrial Engineering Department

• SMV break down for the style • Operator allocation

• Machine allocation

• Tech layout (Attachments, folders, machines and other resources)

Any requisition for work aids and machines should reach Maintenance department before 2 days. And arrangements should be made 1 day prior to the production.

To carry out Bulk production following information should be referred • Style file (including PP meeting comments)

Style file and PP sample must reach the production floor at least before 2 days. • Approved PP Sample received.

Buyer approved PP sample should accompany the Style file. Every production line must contain 1 approved sample hanging in front of line. Buyer comments sheet should be hanged with the sample. It should contain the layout of the line to be set. PP comment sheet, Description of critical points.

In any case production must not be started without the PP sample, style file and production hand over meeting.

8.4.2 Cutting received (Line feeding)

• Cut panels must be received from the cutting department at least 1 day prior to the production.

• Cut panels must be received only when all the cut parts are available.

• Random checking of bundles must be done to ensure the proper formation of bundle and cut pieces.

• Lay plan and bundle number sheet must accompany the cutting.

• Feeding helper must keep the record of all the cutting received and recut parts

(Annexure 38).

8.4.3 Trims receiving and issuing procedures

Trims must be issued according to the work order and cut plan received by the production. In order to prevent any miscommunication the trims should be issued according to the cut plan.

• Trims should be issued 1 day prior to the production. • Trims receiving and issuing records should be maintained.

• It must be ensured that all the trims are available before starting bulk production.

• In case of, Short or absence of any trim should be resolved by the production Manager and take the necessary action to resume the production.

8.5 Sewing operations

Quality garments are made up through a sequence of operations, which themselves have, specific and defined levels of quality. The following are individual areas, which affect end quality and the systems that need to be put in place to control these areas. These key areas will not only affect quality standards, but also will also impact on delivery schedules and overall costs.

All the template used in production line should be duly signed by the technical dept. + QC

Template:

a. Collar run stitch marking (Metal sheet) b.Collar assemble templete

c.Pocket marking d.Button down marking e.Pocket pressing

No marking should be used for button holes. Button attach marking should be collar down.

Each line should have two checkers for parts and one for assembly. Work instruction should be displayed at all work stations.

8.5.1 Machine Repair & Maintenance

Each factory must ensure that they keep proper machine repair records (Annexure 39).A full time team of mechanics must be employed and have a well-stocked and organized workshop. Machine repair records must exist for each machine and the summary record are kept in the workshop. The mechanic and head mechanic must sign it each time that work is carried out.

It is also very important that when new operators start, they are in fact trained properly on not only the basic workings of the machine’s but daily care procedures as well. All machines must be cleaned at least twice a day, needle change and broken needle procedures must be clearly understood. A daily routine must be set up for all operators. Awareness through good training procedures is the key to ensuring that a level of understanding exists. Operators need to react to such problems even if they do not know how to fix them. At the end of the day, you can always deal with reaction. No reaction on the other hand means that issues and problems will continue.

8.5.2 Needle policy

The following procedures are particularly designed for Kids garment production but can also be translated for other products such as knitted and embroidered fabrics and components where needle are used in production.

Pins that must be used in the laying-up of fabric must be controlled. No other uses of pins in cutting, assembly, inspection or any other operation where garments or components are handled are allowed. Pins must, not secure reels of elastic, lace, bindings etc. They must be eliminated and replaced by tape. Neither pins nor staples must be used in any part of the factory for other uses such as securing documents, tickets, pay packets or notice boards.

The procedure

• No operator shall be in possession of any needles other than those in the machine being operated, or that required for the hand operation being performed.

• In some cases it may be necessary for a worker undertaking handwork to have more than one needle in their possession. In these cases it should be recorded how many needles are issued to each worker, these must be accounted for at the end of each shift.

• All spare needles shall be held by a supervisor in a secure, locked location. • Only the supervisor shall issue needles to operators.

• Mechanics must not leave spare needles with a machine after servicing.

• If a needle needs replacing through wear the supervisor will issue a new needle and retain the old one for safe disposal. Planned regular replacement is recommended.

• Worn needles must be disposed of into sealed containers away from the factory floor and at intervals securely disposed of to waste.

• If a needle breaks all parts must be looked for. Broken needle fragments must be mounted with clear adhesive tape on a chart and signed by the line/floor supervisor. Records (Annexure 40) must be kept of needle breakages by machine type, needle size, operation etc. to establish trends. All record sheets must be kept for a minimum of 18 months.

When all parts are found a new needle can be issued.

8.5.3 Label policy

The following Label policy must be adhered to ensure that correctly labelled

-products are being manufactured. A system for rigid control and issuing of labels is essential.

The procedure

1. On receipt of the contract, check label information ensure fabric composition, care instructions and all necessary safety instructions are correct. This must also includes legal responsibilities for character merchandise.

2. All deliveries of labels must be quarantined and checked against the contract before being released to trim stores. This inspection should include random checks for mixed labels within a single box. It is vital to ensure that this responsibility is given to the trim store manager.

3. The quantity of labels issued to the production line must correspond with the cutting room documents and be controlled by the trim stores supervisor. 4. Where labels are date coded, the oldest must be picked first.

5. Only the correct number of labels must be issued to the line. This must be no more than the current bundle size.

6. Spare labels must not be kept by the operator. Any labels not required must be collected and returned to the trim store.

7. Any additional label requirements must be authorised by the trim store supervisor e.g. re-makes or repairs.

8. Label insertion must be an integral part of the product. If labels are required after dyeing, they must be over-locked to the seam and not lock stitched. 9. Checking of sew-in labels must be included in end of line inspections. 10. At the final stage of garment inspection, prior to dispatch, all garment labels

must be checked against the UPC tickets and hanger/ box-end labels.

11. It is also necessary to check outer box labels against the actual contents prior to sealing of box.

8.5.4 In Line Process Controls

The importance of first time quality is the key, in today’s changing business environment. The ability to turn around quality goods in a short span of time is

essential. With the correct procedures and correct management attitude, this can be achieved, very successfully.

Operation specifications (Annexure 41) play a key part in the successful implementation of new styles, ensuring that we get quality levels right first time and not after three or four days of sewing. Each operation that is set up must have a specification on the machine, which includes details such as;

• Machine type.

• Needle and Stitch size. • Seam width.

• Thread size and quality.

A detailed description of the operation either by a detailed drawing or by attaching a mock ups (visual standard).

They must be signed by the operator, QC, supervisor to confirm that they fully understand the requirements. This may seem like a lot of additional work but the advantages gained from doing this are evident and immediate.

A complete understanding of the requirements and standardization across additional machines doing the same operation. Immediate understanding by new operators who have to step in the case of absenteeism. The same would also apply to in line Q.C.’s. Immediate reference for all operations at each needlepoint.

8.5.5 Quality performance sheets

To achieve pre determined productivity levels the level of quality must firstly be defined and achieved before any operator is issued a target.

To achieve the optimum quality level.

• A agreed and signed the Job Specification , each operator must be trained until the supervisor/technician is satisfied with his/her out going quality.

• There must be a visible and dedicated inline QC for all machines in a line. • Each operator must be checked 4 times a day using a simple, traffic light

system and inspecting no more than 10 pieces each time with fixed quantity. • In-line QC and Line supervisor must sign reports daily.

• The monthly summary must be kept at the machine at all times until the end of the month. After the month is over they can be put into the operator’s performance file.

• It is not up to the Inline QC to fix the problem but to find the problem. Fixing the problem is the responsibility of the operator, supervisor and technician. Not only does this act as a control tool but it also acts as a database recording which operation the operator has been doing and which one they are best at. Therefore in time it will build up a historic data of individual’s strong and weak operations.

• It is important for management to see first time quality as an essential cost factor. If operations are not set up properly, and work produced continues to be bad then the additional costs through repairs, seconds, and loss in productivity, short shipments and delays can be substantial.

8.5.6 Traffic Light Procedures

QC inspects 10 garments of an operator.

• No defects- mark card GREEN to go to next operator.

• ONE defect - mark card YELLOW, circle defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8. Inform and show operator fault. Move to next operator.

• TWO defects mark card RED, THREE defects mark card BLACK, circle Defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8.

• Inform and show SUPERVISOR of faults.

• SUPERVISOR must stay with operator until 20 consecutive (for RED), 30 consecutive (for BLACK) garments/parts/operation pass.

• SUPERVISOR initial (Signature) at the RED/BLACK to indicate 20/30 garments have passed consecutively.

• If an operator has consecutive inspection RED, FLOOR MANAGER must be informed to re-train the operator or take necessary follow up actions. Please indicate this by using BLACK.

• If a high defective rate is found on one particular operation in any one hour at 100% END LINE inspection, QC must inform LINE SUPERVISOR immediately and not wait until the end of the day.

This system will work very well in reducing repair levels on hourly, daily basis if used properly. Proper communicating among different inspection stages on defects found and timely follow up actions is vital.

8.5.7 End line inspections

All end line inspections tables must be set up as follows.

• There must be an approved an approved PP sample that has been checked by the merchandiser.

• Proper dedicated tables must be set up. It is unacceptable to have large tables with many inspectors. This will only lead to people talking to each other and losing focus on what they are supposed to be doing, or mixing up good and bad garments. One table one inspector.

• Lighting must be a minimum of 100-foot candles.

• Along with the approval sample, all relevant paperwork must be at the inspection table. This must include clear copies of PP sample comments, and a list of Key points to be checked, during the inspection.

• Each inspector must have a predefined inspection method. If we determine the method then through time the inspector will know what to inspect and in what sequence. That will allow them to focus on the overall garment quality and not think about what she has checked and what she hasn’t.

• The inside as well as the outside of the garments must be thoroughly checked. The method of inspection must be defined at the PP meeting

• If there are excessive threads then these must be marked as repairs to ensure that the problem is in fact rectified.

• Proper bins must set up to ensure that we are segregating good garments and bad garments (i.e. Sewing, stains and shading etc,).

• Hourly records must be kept, using the END LINE DAILY INSPECTION REPORT (Annexure 42). A repair in and out control is also included in the report, which will enable the supervisor to ensure that repairs are being repaired and returned, straight away.

• It is important for management to ensure that all reports are examined hourly to ensure that the necessary corrective action has taken place.

• Measurement methods must be established to ensure that all inspectors are in fact using the same method.

• Measurement sheets must be filed properly and must measure at least three pieces of every size in full, every day across all colors, per auditor.

• The only way to measure a garment is in fact with a tape measure. Under no circumstance must templates be used nor there be any marks on the table. Inspectors will only pull or push garments to meet specs in this case.

8.6. Post Sewing Operations

8.6.1 Washing

• A daily in / out record between factory and laundry should be maintained to monitor a smooth production flow.

• All garments should be segregated by shade lot with proper identification on each garment before sending to laundry for washing.

• All garments should be washed by shade lot in the same washing load for shade consistency.

• A washing control technician from factory should be sent to laundry to check the garments from each washing loads to ensure color shade, washing effect, hand feel and measurements are within customers’ acceptable level. Anything rejected must be recorded and followed up for correction / improvement before the next wash

• Garments returned from laundry must be firstly checked against approved shade band, washing effects and hand feel before accepting for 100% final inspection. Anything off approved standard must be rejected and returned to laundry for re-wash immediately with record.

• Daily inspection results from the washing control technician, control point on accepting garments returned from laundry and final inspection must be reviewed together. Any issue like garments shade varies within a washing load, washing defects, broken stitches, over washed, trims over abraded, bad smell, etc. that needs improvement must be communicated to parties