• No results found

How To Understand The History Of Italian Fashion

N/A
N/A
Protected

Academic year: 2021

Share "How To Understand The History Of Italian Fashion"

Copied!
18
0
0

Loading.... (view fulltext now)

Full text

(1)

THE C

THE CENTRO The Birth o

FMI –

O DI FIRENZE of Italian F

PITTI I

PER LA MOD Fashion – A

IMMAG

DA ITALIANA – All photos ar

GINE : W

– PITTI IMMA re copyright

WHERE

AGINE : WHER of Archivio

E IT ALL

E IT ALL BEGA o Giorgini -

L BEGA

AN

AN

(2)

Florence tr particular story that and beauty Etruscan a of excellen Leonardo The Birth o ruly is a ho city has pr has been c y produced art of cast a nce in art ha da Vinci, B of Italian F

ome for arti roduced suc enturies in d with innov and engrav asn’t ceased Botticelli an Fashion – A

ists and art ch a wealth the making vative prac ed bronze s d since. The nd Giotto ar All photos ar tisans, for w h of skill and g. Evidence ctices and c sculptures a e Renaissan re all spark re copyright whatever th d creativity e of the art reativity ca and mirrors nce and the kling stars in of Archivio he reasons m y, what we isan traditi an be found s from 500 B e great artis n Florence’ o Giorgini - may be that do know is ions of craf d as far bac BC and thi sts Michela ’s great hist t this that it’s a ftsmanship ck as the s tradition ngelo, tory.

(3)

In the mor Santa Croc knowledge It was in t with Amer Tiffany wh In the post the city of internation with the a under the for their h south and As a true e he opened Coin. Ther were able, craftsman interest of boater hat led him to Giorgini pl Departure photos are re recent 19 ce were bus e of materia this time, 19 rica, openin ho bought f t second wo f Florence’s nal trade. H dministrati Marshall P eadquarter overlookin entrepreneu the first gi re he organ not only to ship, this w f soldiers wi ts, but as a realise the lanned his of the USA copyright of 920s Floren stling with als, particul 922, that G ng his first o from him si orld war pe s economy a He had esta ion that wa Plan. In the rs as it was ng Porta Ro ur, Giorgini ift shop in F

ised the sto o sell their p was the first

ishing to br strategic m importanc greatest str A Tour to pro f Archivio G

nce was a cit hundreds o larly of leat Giovanni Ba office there ilverware a eriod the wo and Giorgin ablished a w as actively i spring of 1 situated in omana. i immediate Florence, in ore as a fair products bu t artisan m ring home g move of his ce of fashion rategic mov omote Giorg Giorgini - ty filled wi of artisans w ther, that h attista Gior e in 1923 an and jeweller ork of the A ni was fully wide circle o involved in 1944 the Al n a strategic ely started n Via Calza r of sorts by ut also, to w arket of its gifts of Flor own to help n in new po ve: to creat gini’s busine th ateliers, working wit had been pa rgini began nd selling to ry. Artiginato A y aware of t of connectio n the recons lied Army r c position o collaborati iuoli and in y giving the work and sh kind in Flo rentine leat p restart th ostwar socie e and expor ess. The Bi San Fredia th hand ski assed on thr trading in o departmen Artistico wa he importa ons with Am struction of requested t n the Bello ing with the n the buildin e artisans st how the bu orence. It w hers, bags, he economy ety and so G rt Italian F rth of Italia

ano, the Olt ill, capabili rough the y these artis nt stores su as fundame ance of an merican bu f Italy after to use Giorg oSguardo hi em and a y ng now occ tands wher uyers first-h

was not only lace and st y. In turn th Giovanni B Fashion. an Fashion treArno, ity, years. an crafts uch as ental to uyers and r the war gini’s home ill facing year later cupied by e they hand their y in the traw his move Battista – All e

(4)

We spoke rediscover very begin for twenty after maki catalogue sort throug In convers Central Fl and intere “…everyth world, the big balls. S something hard to do it was a ve My grandf war he cou and in fact paid good because of work with to the gran ed his gran nning with h y years in th ing an agree the collecti gh and cata sation with orence, he s sting envir hing was be women, th Still the atm g I remembe o what you ery positive father’s dre uldn’t so he t he did tha attention t f that so the him becau ndson of Gio ndfather’s v

his first fas he home of ement in 20 ion. Neri te alogue. Mr Fadiga spoke affec onment he eautiful, hi heir elegant mosphere w er very wel have to do e environme eam was to e said ‘I wil at very very to others … e people we use it was a ovanni Bat vast collecti hion show his aunt. H 005 with Ar lls us there ati in the flo ctionately a

created at

s house; he t dresses an was very int

l everythin at your be ent. start a dipl l sell Italian y well …he … and proba ere always h pleasure.” ttista Giorg ion of photo in Villa To He immedia rchivio di S e are still th oral courty about his gr Villa Torri e was also a d they had teresting, ev ng has to be st but also lomatic car n products e was very g ably this is happy to co gini, Neri Fa ographs, pa rrigiani, th ately realise Stato Firen housands of ard of his h randfather giani. n expert an a lot of fun verything h e perfect plu to enjoy lif reer, to be a abroad and good in inte one of the r ome to Flor adigati, wh apers and m at had been ed its cultur ze, they be f documents hotel Reside and growin ntique colle n partying had to be pe us it is very fe to be nice a diplomat, d this is a w eracting wit reasons he w rence to com ho in 1990 memorabilia n quietly st ral importa gan to scan s and photo enza Il Vill ng up in the ector, this fa and organi erfect, this y important e to yoursel , but becaus way to be d th people a was so succ me to his h a from the tored away ance and, n and ographs to ino in e beautiful ashion sing those is t to work lf to others se of the iplomatic’, and he also cessful ouse to

(5)

Gloria Swa Giorgini Thanks to fashion de Jole Venez commercia “He realise was to crea a businessm just high f everyday f can do this anson and G his diplom signers suc ziani and R al fashion s ed that soc ate busines man he rea fashion and fashion and s, we are go G.B.Giorgin matic ability h as Emilio Roberto Cap how to be h iety was ch ss to genera alised that t d unique pie d he realised ood in it, we ni at his hom y Giorgini w o Pucci, Sor pucci, amon hosted in hi hanging com te wealth n there was a eces made in d that ‘…is e can produ me in 1955. was able to relle Fontan ngst others is own hom mpletely, he not only for

huge new m n France an s going to b uce …’. 5.10 – All i gather toge na, Emilio and set abo me Villa Tor e was a bus r himself bu market ope nd Paris fo become a bi images are c ether both Schuberth, out organis rrigiani in F sinessman f ut also for t ening up in r going out g business i copyright of emerging a , Simonetta sing Italy’s February 19 first of all… the others… the States, t at night b in the futur f Archivio-and known a Visconti, first 951. … his goal …and so as , no more ut re and we

(6)

G.B. Giorg Giorgini Although was hinder income rat de la Mode decline in t affordable and therei “He saw th stores, ma say ‘This i otherwise he said: ‘N pull in eve fashion wa leading rol His goal w big in orde gini with US Paris never red by high te had falle e Français o the Parisia , high qual n Giorgini f here was th glieria from is beautiful it won’t sel No! We mus erything els as the only le.

was not just er to sell ev S Ambassad r lost its po h productio n dramatic on the licen n monopoly lity fashion

find his cha his change a m Como, Le , the qualit ll’. So some st produce u se’, so he us tool to be u t to launch erything, n dor Reinhar sition as th n costs, sell cally and re nsing, repro y and haut and day-w ance to brin and he thou ecco, Milan, ty is beautif e Italian pro under Italia sed Fashion used to do t Italian fash not just fash

rdt in 1953

he world’s f ling its luxu estrictive po oduction an te-couture, wear, opene ng forth the ught… he u , the North ful but we n oducers use an names a n to create M that, just F hion, his go hion…” – All photo fashion capi ury collecti olicies impo nd exportat coupled wi d a window e Made In I used to sell h Italy …so need to hav ed French n nd if we wi Made In Ita Fashion, he oal was to m s are copyrig ital, in the p ions when t osed by the ion of Fren th an increa w of opportu Italy brand to North A customers ve a French names, he w ill be able to aly as a bra realized th make Made ight of Arch post-war p the average Chambre S nch designs asing dema unity for co d. American de s used to co h name for t was mad ab o sell fashio and he reali hat Fashion In Italy st ivio eriod it e personal Syndicale . This and for ompetitors epartment me and this brand out that on this will ised n had a rong and

(7)

L’Europeo

(8)
(9)

Illustration

(10)
(11)

Illustration

(12)

So it was on February 12,1951, in his home of Villa Torrigiani, that Giovanni Battista Giorgini held Italy’s first fashion show featuring 180 collections, several female buyers from elite North American department stores including Jessica Davis of Bergdorff Goodman, Gertrude Ziminsky of New York’s B. Altman and Stella Haniania of San Francisco’s I.Magnin, and a few

international journalists.

Giorgini had used his connections and charm to convince these high profile buyers to attend his first show in Florence as they were already in Europe for the Paris collections. In the 1950′s, a journey from America to Europe was a long boat trip followed by a long train ride so Giorgini who was used to hosting international buyers in his home, invited his guests for elegant supper at his home and held grand evening balls to entertain his clients as much as to showcase the fine Italian fashion.

Despite the small number of designers and buyers, the event proved to be a great success. All the collections shown that evening were sold, the buyers contacted their stores to send more funds and the ateliers were inundated with orders.

The event gained extensive media coverage in international fashion magazines such as Fashion trade publication, Women’s Wear Daily’s follow-up headline: “Italian styles gain approval of US Buyers.”

Giorgini’s initiative had proven successful in introducing sophisticated Italian fashion, quality fabrics, skilled technical tailoring and many view this event as the official birth of Italian fashion.

(13)
(14)

First Italia copyright of After the s 1951. This hosting th designers f Emilio Pu an High Fa of Archivio G success of th s time the e he growing a from Rome cci present ashion Show Giorgini

his first fas vent took p attendance e, Milan, Tu ed his first w in Giorgin shion show, place at the , there were urin, as well full collecti ni’s home V , Giorgini q e Grand Ho e around se l as Florenc ion. Villa Torrigi quickly orga otel in Flore eventy buy ce. Ferraga ani, Firenz anised a sec ence, a bigg ers and jou

mo, made t ze – All phot cond show i ger venue ca urnalists and the shoes w tos are in July, apable of d included while

(15)

Tenth Itali Giorgini Tenth Itali Giorgini ian High F ian High F Fashion Show Fashion Show w, Sala Bia w, Sala Bia anca, July 1 anca, July 1 1955 – All p 1955 – All p photos are co photos are co opyright of A opyright of A Archivio Archivio

(16)

In July 1952 in the beautiful Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti, Giorgini’s fourth fashion show was a pivotal event for his enterprise with nine fashion houses participating, along with sixteen houses showcasing boutique styles and sportswear, Florence became the place where all the major Italian fashion shows were held up until 1982 in the Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti.

In 1954 Giorgini and his collaborators realised it was necessary to organise this growing wave of fashion business and together they founded the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana (CFMI) designed to promote the fashion events.

From then on, this organisation would promote all the fashion events. There were 500 buyers and 200 journalists at the 1955 shows, making “Pitti” the biggest fashion trade fair in Europe. Now sixty years on the CFMI and Pitti Immagine, are still going strong and the Palazzo Pitti Fashion shows have grown to include Pitti Uomo in 1972 at the Hotel Villa Medici, Pitti Donna in ’75 at Palazzo Strozzi, Pitti Bimbo in ’75, Pitti Filati in ’77, Pitti Casual in ’78 and Pitti Maglia in ’82 devoted to Italian knitwear.

Italian fashion has influenced the world’s designers and fashion admirers, setting a standard of excellence in style and production that has withstood the threat of fast fashion, cheap

counterfeiting, economic pressures and more.

With such a wealth of natural talent and innate style Italian designers such as Versace, Ferragamo, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Cavalli etc. have deservedly become the stars of the fashion world and it’s difficult to talk about fashion without mentioning their influence so let’s also tip our hat to Count Giovanni Battista Giorgini, the great man who had the vision and charisma to create the international platform for Italian Fashion to stand proudly on.

(17)

Neri Fadig

(18)

Special tha Raffaello N photograp All photog All photos must have granted by Giorgini’s Archivio G anks to Ner Napoleone, phs and doc graphs are c s on this we e permission y the “fair u

little red boo Giorgini ri Fadigati , chief execu cuments in t copyright o ebsite are co n to use the use” clause ok of buyers

for his tim utive of Pit the book Th of Archivio opyrighted e photos in of the copy s from Italy’ e and infor tti Immagin he Sala Bia Giorgini material an any way th yright law. ’s first High mation. Ne ne, have pu anca: The B nd all right hat does no h Fashion S eri, in collab ublished som irth of Itali ts are reserv t fall under Show – All p boration wi me of the p ian Fashion ved. This m r the limite photos are c ith processed n. means you d rights opyright of

References

Related documents

Wear appropriate personal protective equipment when handling chemicals (for example, safety glasses, gloves, or protective clothing).. For additional safety guidelines, consult

H{dpsohv zlwk Qr Udwlrqdol}deoh Wudgh1 Zh frqvlghu d qlwh vljqdo yhuvlrq ri wkh wudglqj hqyhorshv sureohp vwxglhg e| Qdohex ^46`/ Jhdqdnr0 sorv ^<`/ dqg rwkhuv1 Hdfk ri wzr

risk of drugs-related death at older current age for clients at drug treatment agencies. (see Table 3: RR[2] results), whereas the two external cohorts signalled

Apoyados en esas consideraciones, los propósitos que orientan este artículo son: a) Examinar un ensayo del autor R. Ross en el año 1913 y publicado en las páginas de la

From a theoretical point of view, a negative association between quality of corporate reporting and cost of equity financing is observed, particularly emphasizing on

Here we report a new methodology for realizing a three-dimensional (3D) dynamic probe of single-molecule conductance, which enables the elaborate 3D analysis of the

In a product design project as an experimental phase of the study, defining the non-visual signs and symbols for usage scenarios, helped the design team to create an emotional

The theoretical literature on the economics of knowledge, on in- dustrial organization and on strategic management studies, which I refer to, has focused on the process of