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BY THE EDITORS OF SUNSET BOOKS AND SUNSET MAGAZINE

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Resea rch & Text Joan Griffiths Mary Jane Swanson Coo rdina ting E dito r Cornelia Fogle Design Joe di Chiarro Illustra tio ns Sally Shimizu Pho to Stylist JoAnn Masaoka

Serve bubbly Grilled Cheese (page 48) right from the barbecue, with plenty of tostadita dippers. This hearty appetizer comes from Mexico's Yucatan peninsula.

Photographers: Glenn Christiansen: pages 42, 90, 95; Norman A. Plate: pages 39, 58; Darrow M. Watt: pages 15, 82; Tom Wyatt: pages 2, 7, 10, 18, 23, 26, 34, 47, 50, 55, 63, 66, 71. 74, 79, 87; Nikolay Zurek: page 31.

Cover: Red and yellow bell peppers and green patty­ pan squash grill alongside rosemary-seasoned lamb chops. Simply brush chops with Mediterranean Bast­ ing Sauce (page 25), then grill according to chart on page 8. Grilling directions for vegetables are on page 81. Photography by Tom Wyatt. Cover design by Williams & Ziller. Photo styling by JoAnn Masaoka. Food styling by Mary Jane Swanson.

Hot off the grill . . .

Whether yo u're a n o cca sio na l ba ckya rd chef w ho needs relia ble, ba sic info rma tion o n grilling tim es a nd techniques o r a co nf irm ed ba rbecue coo k

seeking tem pting new recipes , this boo k is yo ur guide to the a rt of grilling .

In the fo llow ing pa ges yo u'll f ind m enus fo r en­ terta ining , instructio ns o n f ire building, deta iled cha rts fo r grilling , spit-roa sting , a nd smo ke­ coo king, a nd versa tile grilling recipes fo r every o cca sio n-f rom info rma l picnics a nd fam ily

mea ls to elega nt dinners a nd ho lida y f ea sts . Yo u'll disco ver wa ys to prepa re a ppetizers tha t coo k o n the grill, grilled vegeta ble a nd f ruit a cco mpa nim ents , a nd ma rina des a nd ba rbecue

sa uces to f la vo r m ea ts, seafoo d , a nd po ultry. We a lso include info rma tio n o n coo king w ith m es­

quite a nd o ther a roma tic woo ds.

Fo r their genero sity in sha ring pro ps fo r use in o ur pho to gra phs, we tha nk M enlo Pa rk Ha rdwa re

Com pa ny, Rush Cutters, a nd William s-So noma . O ur specia l tha nks to Rebecca La Brum fo r edit­ ing the ma nuscript.

Editor, Sunset Books: Elizabeth L. Hogan Fifth printing August 1990

Copyright© 1986, 1979, 1967, 1962, 1957, 1950, Sunset Publishing Corporation, Menlo Park, CA 94025. Sixth edition. World rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any mechanical, photographic , or electronic process, or in the form of a phonographic recording, nor may it be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or otherwise copied for public or private use without prior written permission from the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 85-81593. ISBN 0-376-02080-6. Lithographed in the United States.

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Contents

4

Barbecuing Basics

18

Beef

34

Lamb

42

Pork

58

Fish

66 Poultry

82

Patio Parties

94 Index

Special Features

24 Marinades, Sauces & Butters 48 Appetizerp from the Grill 56 Fuels for Cooking

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Hibachi

4

Gas-fired barbecue

Covered kettle

Wide selection of barbecues available on the market today includes many sizes and shapes of open braziers, covered grills, and barbecues fueled by charcoal, gas, or electricity. Here are five of the most popular types.

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Ba rbecuing is o ne culina ry a rt tha t even a no vice ba ck-ya rd chef ca n ma ster w ith ea se. Of co urse, it's crucia l tha t yo u use yo ur equipm ent pro perly a nd lea rn a f ew ba sic skills.

In this cha pter, yo u'll f ind genera l info rma tio n o n types o f ba rbecues (a f ew exam ples a re show n a t left), fo llow ed by info rma tio n o n fire sta rters a nd directio ns fo r ba rbecuing by direct a nd indi­

rect hea t. The cha rts o n pa ges 8 to 17 w ill help yo u w ith the ba sics o f ba rbecuing m ea ts , po ultry, a nd sea foo d, plus smo king a nd spit-roa sting.

In a ll o ur recipes, the recomm ended coo king metho d is indica ted by a sym bo l:

Open grilling

l!fjj}A

(Direct heat)

Types of Barbecues

Covered grilling

@

(Indirect heat)

Ba rbecues a re a va ila ble in three ma in types (cha rcoa l-fired , ga s, a nd electric) a nd do zens of styles. Yo ur cho ice w ill depend o n w here yo u'll use yo ur ba rbecue, the num ber of peo ple yo u'll usua lly be serving , a nd the kinds of foo d yo u're mo st likely to ba rbecue.

Charcoal-fired barbecues. The mo st po pula r cha rcoa l-fired ba rbecues a re o pen bra ziers , co v­ ered kettles, a nd bo xes w ith hinged lids .

• Open braziers com e in a va riety of sizes, from ta ble-to p po rta bles a nd hiba chis to very la rge (of ­ ten custom -fa shio ned) mo dels fo r qua ntity coo k­ ing. Ma ny bra ziers fea ture a coo king grill tha t ca n be ra ised o r low ered to a dj ust the dista nce be­ tween firebed a nd foo d , thus co ntro lling the hea t.

Built-in brick ba rbecues a lso belo ng to this genera l ca tego ry o f ba rbecue- like bra ziers , they're designed fo r o pen-grill coo king o ver direct hea t (see pa ge 6 . )

• Covered kettles a re a va ila ble in va rio us sizes; the 18- a nd 24-inch mo dels a re the mo st commo n. Dam pers on the lid a nd under the firebo x a llow yo u to a dj u st the flow of a ir a nd co ntro l the hea t. This type o f ba rbecue is idea l fo r coo king la rge cuts o f m ea t, w ho le fish, a nd w ho le po ultry by indirect hea t (see pa ge 6), since it pro vides the sam e even hea t a n o ven do es.

Kettle ba rbecues ma y a lso be used , either un­ co vered or co vered , fo r grilling o ver direct hea t. Lea ving the lid o ff do es ma ke it ea sier to wa tch a nd tend quick-coo king foo ds such a s ham burg­

ers, stea ks , a nd cho ps, but ma ny ma nufa cturers recomm end co vering the grill to speed up coo k­ ing a nd co nserve fuel. Co vering the grill a lso helps co ntro l fla re-ups.

• Barbecue boxes with hinged lids genera lly f unctio n the sam e wa y co vered kettles do . Yo u

ca n use them co vered fo r coo king by indirect hea t, o r o pen o r clo sed fo r grilling o ver direct hea t. They, too , ha ve a dju sta ble dam pers fo r hea t co ntro l; ma ny a lso ha ve a dj usta ble firebeds tha t ca n be ra ised a nd low ered . Spit-roa sting a tta chm ents a re a va ila ble fo r som e mo dels.

Gas & electric barbecues. Ba rbecues pow ered by ga s o r electricity pro vide two a lterna tives to cha rcoa l-fired ba rbecues. Mo dels using na tura l o r bo ttled ga s include kettles a nd single o r do uble

bo x-sha ped units; ba rbecues hea ted by electric co ils a re a va ila ble in a sim ila r ra nge o f styles .

Outdoo r units fueled by bo ttled ga s usua lly ro ll o n w heels, w hile na tura l ga s units a re mo unted o n a f ixed pedesta l a nd need to be co n­

nected to a perma nent ga s line. E lectric units a re po rta ble; they ca n sim ply be plugged into the nea rest o utlet. All ga s units a nd som e electric mo dels em plo y a specia l briquet-sha ped ma te­

ria l , such a s la va ro ck, a bo ve the burner. When m ea t j uices drip o n these ho t "briquets , " smo ke

rises to penetra te a nd f la vo r the foo d .

Ga s a nd electric ba rbecues a re a ppea ling o n severa l co unts . They sa ve yo u the wo rk of build­ ing the fire a nd clea ning up the a shes. And mo st units require o nly a brief prehea ting , so yo u ca n sta rt coo king in a ma tter o f m inut es. As a rule, foo d grilled o n these ba rbecues coo ks in a bo ut

the sam e tim e a s o n cha rcoa l-fired mo dels. If yo u ha ve a ga s o r electric unit , co nsult the ma nufa c­ turer's directio ns fo r coo king info rma tio n . Starting the Charcoal

E very o utdoo r chef ha s a fa vo rite wa y to f ire up the ba rbecue . Here a re six of the mo st po pula r sta rters.

• Fire chimney. Sta ck briquets inside the chim ­ ney o n to p o f wa dded sheets o f new spa per, then light.

• Solid starter. These sma ll, com pressed , woo d­ like blo cks o r sticks light ea sily w ith a ma tch . • Liquid starter. If yo u use a liquid sta rter, be sure it's a pro duct intended fo r cha rcoa l . Don't pour liquid starter on h ot coals -the coa ls co uld f la re up.

• Self-starting briquets. These briquets a re ea s­ ily ignited w ith a ma tch . They co st mo re tha n reg­ ula r briquets do , but a lso hea t up mo re quickly.

(Continued on next page)

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... Starting the Charcoal

• Electric starter. Set the sta rter o n a f ew bri­ quets in the firebed . Pile mo re briquets o n to p, then plug in the sta rter. Remo ve sta rter af ter lO m inutes.

• Propane starter. Just sta ck the briquets a ro und the burner, then light the burner.

Fire Temperature

Three different term s a re commo nly used to in­ dica te desired fire tem pera ture a t the sta rt o f coo king.

• Hot describes coa ls tha t a re ba rely co vered w ith gra y a sh . Yo u ca n ho ld yo ur ha nd nea r the

grill fo r o nly 2 to 3 seco nds.

• Medium describes coa ls tha t glow thro ugh a la yer of gra y a sh . Yo u ca n ho ld yo ur ha nd near the grill fo r o nly 4 to 5 seco nds.

• Low describes coa ls co vered w ith a thick la yer of gra y a sh . Yo u sho uld be a ble to ho ld yo ur ha nd

nea r the grill fo r 6 to 7 seco nds. Barbecuing by Direct Heat

Open the bo ttom dam pers if yo ur ba rbecue ha s them . Sprea d briquets o n the fire gra te in a so lid la yer tha t's l to 2 inches bigger a ll a ro und tha n the grill a rea required fo r the foo d . Then mo und the cha rcoa l a nd ignite it. When the coa ls ha ve rea ched the fire tem pera ture specified in the rec­ ipe, sprea d them o ut into a single la yer a ga in .

Set the grill in pla ce a t the recomm ended height a bo ve the coa ls. G rea se the grill lightly, then a rra nge the foo d o n the grill. Wa tch ca re­ f ully a nd turn a s needed to ensure even coo king.

If yo u're using a ba ste tha t co nta ins suga r, ingre­ dients high in suga r (such a s ca tsup o r fruit) , o r a la rge pro po rtio n of fat a pply it during the la st pa rt o f coo king a nd turn the foo d f requently to prevent sco rching. Also keep a wa ter-filled spra y bo ttle ha ndy to extinguish a ny f la re-ups.

6 Barbecuing Basics

Barbecuing by Indirect Heat

Open o r remo ve the lid from a co vered ba rbecue; o pen the bo ttom dam pers. Pile a bo ut 50 lo ng­

burning briquets o n the fire gra te a nd ignite them . L et the briquets burn until ho t (usua lly a bo ut 3 0 m inutes). U sing lo ng-ha ndled to ngs,

ba nk a bo ut ha lf the briquets o n ea ch side of fire gra te; then pla ce a m eta l drip pa n in the center.

Set the coo king grill in pla ce 4 to 6 inches a bo ve the pa n ; lightly grea se the grill. Set the foo d o n the grill directly a bo ve the drip pa n . If

yo u're grilling m ea t, pla ce it fa t side up; if the m ea t ha s been ma rina ted, dra in it briefly befo re

pla cing it o n the grill. Add 5 o r 6 briquets to ea ch side of the fire gra te a t 3 0- to 40-m inute interva ls a s needed to keep the fire tem pera ture co nsta nt.

Special Tips

When prepa ring the recipes in this boo k , keep these tips in m ind.

• All o ur grilling cha rts a nd recipes w ere tested o n a cha rcoa l-fueled ba rbecue, using 2-inch pressed briquets. To coo k o ver m esquite cha rcoa l o r ha rdwoo ds, see pa ge 57.

• Mo st of o ur recipes w ere tested w ith the coo king grill 4 to 6 inches a bo ve the coa ls. If yo ur grill is clo ser, the coo king tim e w ill be sho rter.

• Alwa ys use po tho lders o r m itts a nd lo ng­ ha ndled coo king too ls.

• U se a wa ter-f illed spra y bo ttle to extinguish f la re-ups.

• Turn foo d w ith to ngs o r a spa tula -a fo rk pierces foo ds a nd a llow s ju ices to esca pe . • Sa lt foo d after coo king (sa lt draw s o ut j uices). • To prevent stea ks a nd cho ps from curling, sla sh edge fa t a t 2- to 3 -inch interva ls; cut just to meat. • To test roa sts o r thick stea ks fo r do neness, insert a m ea t thermom eter in the thickest pa rt ( no t

to uching bo ne). To ensure a ccura cy, repea t the test in severa l pla ces (if po ssible).

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Venetian Mixed Grill (page 84) features six kinds of grilled meats: chicken thighs, sausages, skirt steak, lamb and veal chops, and calf's liver. Diners sample

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Grilling Beef

Cut of Meat Weight or Grilling Fire Test for Doneness & Thickness Method Temperature Approximate Cooking Time

Standing rib roast 31/2-5 lbs. I ndirect Hot. banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R), 150°F (M), 160°F (W). 24-26 min. /lb. (R). 6-8 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R),

150°F (M), 160°F (W) 18-22 min. /lb. (R). Boned & tied roasts 3-5 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R),

(rib, sirloin tip, 150°F (M), 160°F (W) 24-26 min. /lb. (R).

crossrib)

Steaks (T·bone, New 1 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 5-6 min. /side (R). York, Porterhouse, 11/2 inches Direct Medium

Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R), top round, sirloin;

chuck steak if 150°F (M), 160°F �W). 8-9 min./side (R).

marinated or 2-2'12 inches Direct Medium Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R),

tenderized) 150°F (M), 160°F (W). 12-15 min. /side (R)

Flank steak 1-1'12 lbs. Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 5-7 min. /side (MR). Skirt steak (cut into 1/s-1/• inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 1'12-2 min./side (R). serving-size pieces) 1/2 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 2'12-3 min./side (R). Boneless cubes :Y• inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 5-6 min. total (MR).

1 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 8-10 min. total (MR). 1112 inches Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 15 min. total (MR). Ground beef patties 1 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test. 4-5 min. /side (R), 5-6

min /side (M), 6-7 min./side (W). (R) Rare; (M) Med ium; (MR) Medium - rare; (W) Wel l done

Grilling Lamb

Cut of Meat Weight or Grilling Fire Test for Doneness & Thickness Method Temperature Approximate Cooking Time

Leg, bone-in 5-7 lbs. I ndirect Hot. banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R), 150°F (M), 160°F (W). 18-20 min. / lb. (R) Leg, boned & tied 4-5 lbs. I ndirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R),

150°F (M), 160°F (W). 25-27 min. / lb (R). Leg, boned & butterflied 4-5 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R),

150°F (M), 160°F (W). 12-14 min. /lb (R). Shoulder, bone-in 5-7 lbs. I ndirect Hot. banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R),

150°F (M), 160°F (W). 18-20 min /lb (R). Shoulder, boned & tied 4-6 lbs. I ndirect Hot. banked Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R),

150°F (M), 160°F (W). 25-27 min. / lb (R).

Rack 2-3 lbs. I ndirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 140°-145°F (MR).

18-20 min./lb

Chops (loin, rib, :Y. inch Direct Hot Cut near bone to test. 4-5 min./side (MR) shoulder); leg steaks

1 inch Direct Hot Cut near bone to test. 5-6 min. /side (MR) 1112 inches Direct Hot Cut near bone to test. 6-7 min. /side (MR).

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... Grilling Lamb

Cut of Meat Weight or Grilling Fire Test for Doneness & Thickness Method Temperature Approximate Cooking Time

Boneless cubes 3/4 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test 5 min. total (R). 6-8 min.

total (M). 8-10 min. total (W)

1 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test 6 min. total (R). 8 min. total ( M). 12 min. total (W)

1V2 inches Direct Hot Cut meat to test 12 min. total (R), 15 min. total (M), 18-20 min. total (W).

Ground lamb patties :Y4 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test 4-5 min/side ( MR). 1 inch Direct Hot Cut meat to test 5-6 min/side ( MR). (R) Rare; (M) Med i u m ; (MR) Med i u m-rare; (W) Wel l done

Grilling Pork

Cut of Meat Weight or Grilling Fire Test for Doneness & Thickness Method Temperature Approximate Cooking Time Half leg (shank or butt), 6-8 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 170°F

bone-in 27-30 min/lb.

Loin roast, half, bone-in 4V2-6 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 170°F

24-26 min/lb.

Loin roast, half, boned 3-5 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 170°F

& tied 21-24 min./lb

Loin roast, rib or sirloin 3-4 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 170°F

end, bone-in 30-32 min/lb.

Shoulder roast (picnic 4-6 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 170°F

or butt), bone-in 27-30 min/lb.

Shoulder, roast 3-5 lbs. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 170°F

(picnic or butt), 33-35 min/lb.

boned & tied

Tenderloin V2-1 lb. Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer registers 170°F

(fold and tie thin end 20-22 min. total.

underneath for even thickness)

Chops (loin, rib, 314 inch Direct Medium Meat near bone is no longer p ink; cut to test

shoulder); leg 4-5 min/side.

steaks 1 inch Direct Medium Meat near bone is no longer pink; cut to test 5-7 min/side.

1V2 inches Direct Medium Meat near bone is no longer pink; cut to test 8-10 min/side.

Spareribs 2V2-3 lbs , Indirect Hot, banked Meat near bone is no longer p ink; cut to test

whole slab 1-1'14 hours total.

Spareribs, country-style 3-4 lbs , cut Indirect Hot, banked Meat near bone is no longer pink; cut to test

into serving- 1-1'14 hours total.

size pieces

Boneless cubes :V4 inch Direct Hot Meat is no longer pink; cut to test About 8 min. total.

1 inch Direct Hot Meat is no longer pink; cut to test 12-14 min. total.

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A stunning entree for guests: Spinach-stuffed Beef Tenderloin (page 88), filled with a fennel-seasoned spin­ ach mixture. Complete the meal with assorted grilled vegetables and a Madeira sauce to drizzle over all.

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Grilling Veal

Cut of Meat Weight or Grilling

Thickness Method

Leg, bone-in 8-9 lbs. I n di rect

Leg, boned & tied 3-4 lbs. Indirect Shoulder roast, bone-in 7-8 l bs I n direct

Shoulder roast, boned & tied 3-4 lbs. I n direct

Chops (loin) 3/4 inch Direct

1 inch Direct

1V2 inches Direct ·veal cooked to 165°-170°F i s cooked med i um-wel l-tender and ju icy

throughout, but no longer p i nk.

Grilling Fish

&

Shellfish

Type of Fish Weight or Grilling

or Shellfish Thickness Method

Whole fish (with V2-1 lb. (1-1Y2 Indirect

or without head i nches thick)

and tail)* 3-5 lbs. (2-2V2 Indi rect inches thick)

5-7 lbs. Indirect

(3 i n ches thick)

Steaks & fillets•• V2 i n ch Direct 3/4 i n ch Direct

1 i n ch Direct 1Y2 i n ches I n di rect

(2-3 lbs.)

Boneless cubes 1 inch Direct

Shrimp Medium-size Direct

(30-32 per lb. )

Scallops About 1-i n ch Direct cubes

Clams Medium-size Direct

Oysters Medium-size Direct

"Rub whole fish with salad oil before g rilling .

.. Place heavy-d uty foi l under large fil lets i n stead of putting them di rectly on the g r i l l. Fire Temperature Hot, banked Hot, banked Hot, banked Hot, banked Hot Hot Hot Fire Temperature Hot, banked Hot, banked Hot, banked Hot Hot Hot Hot, banked Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot

Test for Doneness & Approximate Cooking Time

Meat thermometer registers 165° -170°F * 20-22 min . /lb.

Meat thermometer registers 165°-170°F.' 32-34 mi n ./lb

Meat thermometer registers 165° -170°F * 18-20 min./lb.

Meat thermometer registers 165° -170°F.' 32-34 mi n ./lb.

Cut n ear bon e to test. 5-6 min. / si de (M). Cut n ear bon e to test. 6-7 mi n . / si de (M). Cut n ear bon e to test. 8-9 mi n . /si de (M). (M) Med i um

Test for Doneness & Approximate Cooking Time Flakes when prodded in thickest part. 6 mi n ./side.

Flakes when prodded i n thickest part 30-35 mi n . total.

Flakes when prodded i n thi ckest part. 45 mi n . total.

Flakes when prodded in thickest part 2-3 mi n./ side.

Flakes when prodded i n thi ckest part. 3-4 min /side

Flakes when prodded in thickest part. 4-5 min./si de.

Flakes when prodded i n thickest part. 15-18 mi n . total.

Flakes when prodded in thickest part. 8-10 min. total.

Shrimp turn pink. 1Y2-21/2 min./side Opaque throughout; cut to test 5-7 min.

total.

Shells pop open. 3-4 min. total. Shells pop open. 4-6 min . total.

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Grilling Poultry

Type of Poultry Weight or Grilling Fire Test for Doneness & Thickness Method Temperature Approximate Cooking Time

CHICKEN, whole 3-4 lbs. I n di rect Hot, banked Meat thermometer i nserted in thi gh registers 185°F. *

1-1'14 hours.

6-7 lbs. I n direct Hot, banked Meat thermometer i nserted in thigh registers 185°F.* 1'12-1 :Y4 hours.

Halved or 3-4 lbs. total Direct Medium Meat n ear bone is no lon ger pi n k; cut to test.

quartered 40-50 mi n.

Cut up 3-4 lbs. total Direct Medium Meat n ear bon e is no lon ger pi nk; cut to test. Dark meat 35-40 mi n.; white meat 15-20 mi n . Breast halves, 1/2-3/4 lb. each Di rect Medium Meat n ear bone is no lon ger pi n k; cut to test.

bone-in 15-20 mi n.

Whole legs, 8-10 oz. each Direct Medium Meat n ear bone is no longer pink; cut to test.

thighs attached 35-45 mi n.

Drumsticks 4-6 oz. each Direct Medium Meat n ear bone is no lon ger pink; cut to test.

or thighs About 35 mi n.

Wings 3-4 oz. each Direct Medium Meat n ear bone is no lon ger pink; cut to test.

About 30 mi n . ROCK CORNISH

GAME HEN, whole 1-1'12 lbs. In di rect Hot, banked Meat n ear thighbone is no longer pink; cut to test. 45-60 mi n.

Halved 1-1'12 lbs. total Direct Medium Meat n ear bone is no lon ger pink; cut to test. 30-40 mi n.

TURKEY, whole 9-15 lbs. I n direct Hot, banked Meat thermometer i nserted in thigh registers 185°F.* 15 mi n./lb.

16-22 lbs. I n direct Hot, banked Meat thermometer i nserted in thigh registers 185°F.* 12 mi n . / lb.

Halved 10-12 lbs. total Indirect Hot, banked Meat thermometer i nserted in thigh registers 185°F.* 11/2-2 hours.

Breast halves, 21/2-3 lbs. each I n direct Hot, banked Meat n ear bone is no lon ger pi n k; cut to test.

bone-in 1-1'12 hours.

Drumsticks 1-2 lbs. each Direct, Medium Meat n ear bone is no longer pi n k; cut to test.

or thighs covered 55-65 mi n.

Boneless cubes 1 i n ch Direct Medium Meat is no longer pi nk in center; cut to test. 12-15 mi n.

Breast steaks 1/2 i n ch Direct Medium Meat is no lon ger pi n k; cut to test. 7-9 mi n . DUCK, whole 4-5 lbs. Indi rect Hot, banked Meat n ear bone at hip socket IS no lon ger pi n k;

(prick skin wi th cut to test. 2-21/2 hours.

a fork before grilli n g)

Cut up 4-5 lbs. total Indirect Hot, banked Meat in thickest part is still slightly pi nk; cut to test.

Legs and wings 40 min.; breast 10-15 mi n . SQUAB, butterflied 1 lb. Direct Hot Breast meat is pi n k n ear bon e; cut to test.

15-20 mi n.

QUAIL, butterflied 3-4 oz. Direct Hot Breast meat is sti ll slightly pi nk n ear bon e; cut to

test. 7-8 mi n . *Insert meat thermometer i n th ickest part o f t h i g h , not touch ing bone.

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Spit-roasting

In spit-roasting , the diameter of the meat and its distance from the heat determine cooking time .

Bone- in roasts, boneless roasts, and poultry are all suitable for spit roasting . In every case , it's important to balance the meat on the spit. Use a ruler to find the center of each end of a roast; the spit should enter and exit at these points .

Choose bone-in roasts of fairly uniform shape, cutting off any bony extensions. Run the spit through the meaty section , as close to the center of the roast as possible. For leg of lamb , run the spit through the meat from the center of the thickest end , keeping the length of the leg parallel to the spit. Roll and tie boneless roasts into evenly shaped cylinders and run the spit through dead center. Tie wings and legs of poul­ try closely to the body; run the spit through the neck and body openings. After spitting, position meat in center of spit; secure with spit forks.

arrange the coals in a solid 6-inch-wide band reaching 3 to 4 inches beyond each end of the spitted meat. Place a metal drip pan directly be­ neath the spit, with one side touching the coals. To maintain a constant fire temperature, add 5 or 6 briquets every 30 minutes, spacing them evenly.

The Firebed. Imagine a wall extending straight down from the spit to the firebed . Then , starting from about 2 inches behind this imaginary wall ,

Acljusting the Distance Between Meat & Fire.

Generally speaking, you should position the spit­ ted meat so its surface is about 5 inches from the surface of the coals. To adj ust the distance , you can raise or lower either the spit or the firebed , depending on your barbecue.

Meat Cut or Bird, Weight & Preparation

Pork loin (4-11 lbs.): Roast may i nclude shoulder end of loi n ; if so. have blade bon e removed and t i e end to hold compactly. Leg of lamb (5112-6112 lbs.): Cut shank bon e off

at joi n t.

Beef standing rib roast (from 3-rib size up to about 12 lbs.): Use small end of standi n g ri b; cut rib bon es off close to meaty portion. Boneless pork loin end or pork shoulder

roast (about 2v2 lbs.)

Boneless leg of lamb roast (3V2-43/4 lbs.)

Boneless leg of pork roast (61/2-7V2 lbs.) Beef rib eye or sirloin tip roast (4-12 lbs.):

Wrap with a thi n layer of fat. Chicken, frying (3-4 lbs.) or

roasting (6-7 lbs.)

Rock Cornish game hens (1%-11/2 lbs.) Turkey (12-14 lbs.) Dimensions or Diameter An i rregular oval. 3V2-4 i nches by 6-6V2 i nches An irregular oval. 3112-4 i nches by 7V2-8 i nches Meaty secti on 61/2-7 i n ches across; bon y sec­ tion 9-10 i nches across 3-3V2 i n ches

4 V4-4:V4 i nches 4 1/2-S i nches

S-SV2 inches

4-4Y2 inches (frying) or SV2-6 i n ches (roasti n g) 3-3V4 inches

71/2-8 i n ches

Test for Doneness & Approximate Cooking Time

Meat thermometer registers 170°F. 2V2-3 hours.

Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R). 150°F (M). 160°F (W). 2-2V2 hours (M). Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R). 150°F (M), 160°F (W). 4-4V2 hours (R).

Meat thermometer registers 170°F. 1 V2-1¥4 hours.

Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F ( R). 150°F (M). 160°F (W) 2-21/4 hours (M)

Meat thermometer registers 170°F. 3V4-3:V4 hours.

Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F ( R). 150°F (M). 160°F (W). 2-2V2 hours ( R). Meat thermometer i nserted in thigh regi sters 185°F. 80-90 mi nutes ( fry i n g) . 2114-21/2 hours (roasti ng).

Meat n ear thighbone is no lon ger pi n k; cut to test. 70-80 mi n.

Meat thermometer i nserted i n thi gh registers 185°F. 41/4-43/4 hours.

(R) Rare; (M) Medium; (W) Wel l done

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Flavoring Foods

with

Smoke

F lavorin g foods with the smoke of fragran t woods is an an cien t cookin g art still very much in style with modern patio chefs . On these pages, we offer two altern ative techn iques for smokin g beef, pork, lamb, fish , and poultry. Qui ck sm ok e­ flav ori ng can easily be accomplished on a cov­ er ed barbecue; sm ok e-cooki ng requir es a special piece of equipmen t called a smoker .

Woods for Smoking

W hether you choose smoke-flavorin g or smoke­ cookin g, your first con sideration will be what type of wood to use. Con sult the chart on page 17 for id eas; for each kin d of meat, we in clude a list of appropriate woods. These dried woods can be purchased in 2- to 3-in ch chun ks , small logs, twigs, chips, or sawdust; the size determin es how lon g the wood must be soaked before usin g .

If you wan t to experimen t with garden cut­ tin gs , choose the same un sprayed woods listed in the chart, or try peach , pear, apricot, pecan , or black waln ut. Break clippin gs in to small twigs an d cut limbs in to chun ks or short len gths. Green wood may be used as is; if the wood is dry, soak it in water. D o not use ran dom garden clippin gs , which may con tain poison ous plan ts such as olean der. Also avoid the wood of cedar, fir, pin e, spruce, an d eucalyptus; their smoke gives food a bitter, resin ous taste.

Quick Smoke-flavoring

If you own a covered barbecue, you can add a delicate smoke flavor to foods as they cook by in direct heat. S tart by soakin g your choice of wood chips or chun ks in water-20 min utes for chips, 45 to 6 0 min utes for chun ks. Then prepare the barbecue fire for in direct heat (see page 6 ); sprin kle each pile of coals with 1 cup wet wood chips or top with on e wood chun k. S et the cookin g grill an d food in place an d cook as the recipe d ir ects. Ad d mor e wet wood chip s about every 30

min utes, when you can n o lon ger see smoke com­ in g from the ven ts. (There's n o n eed to add extra chun ks- they burn lon ger than chips. )

Smoke-cooking

V ery slow, even cookin g in a smoker produces succulen t, smoky-flavored meats, fish, an d

poul-14 Barbecuing Basics

try that taste as good or better than high-priced commercial products. Man y ty pes of smokers are sold in hardware, departmen t, an d outdoor sup­ ply stores; var ious smoker s are also available from mail-order catalogs specializin g in outdoor equipmen t .

On e of the most popular un its is the water smoker, which uses steam to keep the in side tem­ perature low an d even . Than ks to the steam an d the lon g, slow cookin g, foods remain moist an d have plen ty of time to absorb the swirlin g smoke.

As the illustration on page 16 shows, a water smoker looks like an elon gated covered barbe­ cue. In the base is a heat source (charcoal, gas, or electric) ; directly above it is a water pan . Two or three cookin g racks are in side, an d a domed lid with a temperature gauge fits on top.

Our smoke- cookin g direction s an d the times given on our smokin g chart apply to a charcoal­ fueled water smoker. If you have a differen t type of un it, check the man ufacturer's direction s for cookin g in formation .

Preparing the food. To pr epar e f oods for smok­ in g, you can brush them with olive oil or salad oil , or soak them in a spicy-sweet brin e. Brin in g has several advan tages- foods stay moister, the salty-sweet brin e complemen ts the smoky flavor, an d the shelf life of the food is tri pled . (W ithout br in in g , smoked foods can be kept on ly as lon g as those cooked by an y other method.)

• Brining. To make the brin e, you'll n eed a con ­ tain er made from a n on corrodible material such as plastic, glass, or stain less steel ; make sure it's large en ough to hold 10 poun ds of meat, fish , or poultry.

In the con tain er, combin e 3 quarts cool water, 2 cups firmly packed brown sugar. lVz cups salt. 3 cloves garlic (halved), 2 teaspoon s whole black peppercorns. an d 4 bay leaves. S tir briskly un til sugar an d salt are dissolved. Then add foods to be smoked. submergin g them in brin e. Let fish , spareribs, an d small birds (quail , squab, game hen s) stan d at room temperature for 1 hour; brin e tur key breast, whole chicken , d uck, an d pheas­ an t for 2 hours at room temperature. Cover 2lfz -to 4 Vz-poun d rolled an d tied beef, pork, or lamb r oast an d let soak for at least 8 hours (or un til n ext

day) in the refrigerator.

After the food has soaked for the recom­ men ded time, lift it from the brin e an d rin se thor­ oughly un der a thin stream of cool water, rubbin g gen tly to r elease salt. Pat the food dry, then set it

(17)

Colored a rich mahogany, this smoked turkey (page 17) cooks slowly over smoldering hickory chips in a water smoker. Serve the bird hot for a holiday meal. or offer it

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... Smoke-cooking

on a rack and let dry until the surface feels tacky (30 to 60 minutes). At this point, you may cov:er and refrigerate brined foods until next day. Setting up the smoker. We did our testing in a charcoal-fueled water smoker, using 2-inch pressed charcoal briquets. If your water smoker is powered by gas or electricity, follow the manu­ facturer's directions.

• Starting the fire. Begin by checking the chart on the facing page for the approximate cooking times of the foods you're smoking . For up to 5 hours of cooking, allow 8 pounds of briquets-a level charcoal pan in most units. For more than 5 hours, you'll need about 12 pounds of charcoal-a hecharcoal-aping pcharcoal-anful in most units. Open charcoal-all vents and ignite the charcoal , using one of the methods suggested on pages 5 and 6. When the coals are hot (about 30 minutes) , it's time to add wet or green wood for smoke .

• Adding wood. Consult the chart for the amount and type of wood to use, keeping in mind that one wood chunk (or small log) weighs about 4 ounces and is equivalent to 2 cups of wood chips, twigs, or sawdust.

We recommend you start with the minimum amount of wood listed-the smoke should en­ hance, not overwhelm, the taste of the food . If you want a smokier flavor, increase the amount of wood the next time you smoke-cook. Soak dry chunks or logs in water for 45 to 60 minutes; soak smaller pieces for just 15 to 20 minutes. Lift wood from water, let drain, and distribute all of it over the hot coals.

• Adding water to make steam. Line the water

pan with foil for easy cleaning , then set the pan in place over the hot coals. Fill pan with 3 quarts hot tap water.

• Adding food. Pat foods (both brined and un­ brined) dry, then brush with olive oil or salad oil to prevent the surfaces from drying out. Set the cooking racks in place; arrange food on racks in a single layer, allowing l inch between pieces. If you want to smoke several foods with different cooking times , place the smaller pieces on the top racks so they can easily be removed when they're done. Also remember that foods above will drip on those below; stack with care , so incompatible flavors won't mingle.

During the smoking process. A water smoker

functions practically unattended . You'll probably need to add more water after 3Yz to 4 hours, but

16 Barbecuing Basics

Cooking racks

Charcoal pan

Cutaway view

otherwise keep the door closed unless you're test­ ing for doneness or adding coals or water to ad­

just temperature. Opening the smoker too often

allows heat and smoke to escape.

Check the temperature gauge occasionally; it should consistently read 170° to 200°F. When the heat drops too low, try opening the vents. If the temperature stays too cool for more than 30 min­ utes, add a few extra coals. When the heat rises above 200°F, close the vents slightly; if that doesn't work, add cool water to the water pan. (In some smokers , water can't be poured directly into the pan from the outside. In this case , pour it through the racks, not over the food . )

Checking foods for doneness. Test foods for doneness as the chart directs , making a small cut into the center of the food if necessary. Keep in mind that the smoke may tint foods a bright pink just beneath the browned surface.

Serving & Storing Smoked Foods

You can serve smoke-cooked foods hot or cold . To serve foods cold , let them cool after smoking , then wrap tightly and refrigerate . Unbrined smoked foods can be stored l to 3 days depending on size-1 to 2 days for small pieces, 2 to 3 days for medium or large ones. Brined foods keep three times as long.

(19)

Smoke-cooking Guide

Type of Meat Weight or Best Woods

Thickness for Smoking

BEEF

Boneless roasts 3V2-4V2 lbs. Cherry, grapevine, (rib, sirloin tip, hickory, mountain

crossrib) mahogany, mesquite,

oak PO RK

Boneless loin 2V2-3 lbs. Alder, apple, cherry, grapevine, hickory, mesquite

Bone-in loin or About 4 lbs. Same as above leg section

Spareribs Full slab Same as above

Sausages, such 1 inch Same as above as Italian

LAMB

Leg, boned & tied 3V2-41/2 lbs. Apple, cherry, oak FISH

Whole, small'* About 1 lb. Alder, grapevine, hickory, oak, mesquite Fillets•• 1-1V2 inches Same as above

thick POULT RY

Turkey, whole 12-14 lbs. Alder, apple, cherry, grapevine, hickory, mountain mahogany, mesquite, oak Turkey breast, 4-5 lbs. Same as above

bone-in

Chicken, whole 3V2-4V2 lbs. Same as above Duck 4V2-5 lbs. Same as above

Pheasant About 3 lbs. Same as above

Rock Cornish About 1V2 lbs. Same as above

game hen

Squab About 1 lb. Same as above Quail 3-6 oz. Same as above

"Insert meat thermo meter in thickest part of meat or poultry, not touch1ng bone

.. Choose f1sh suc h as salmon, trout, sturgeon. white sea bass. sablef1sh, tuna, bonito, mackerel, or yel lowtail.

Number of Test for Doneness & 2-to 3-inch Approximate Cooking Time Wood Chunks

2-4 Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R):"

or until done to your liking. 4-5 hours (R).

2-6 Meat thermometer registers 160°F. • 4-5 hours.

2-6 Meat thermometer registers 160oF.· 5-7 hours.

1-3 Meat pulls easily from bone. 4-5 hours.

1-3 Meat is no longer pink in center: cut to test.

3-4 hours.

2-4 Meat thermometer registers 135°-140°F (R):" or until done to your liking. 4-5 hours (R).

1-3 Flakes when prodded in thickest part. About

1V2 hours.

1-3 Flakes when prodded in thickest part. 11/2-2V2 hours.

2-4 Meat thermometer inserted in breast registers 165°F." 6-8 hours.

2-4 Meat thermometer registers 165°F. • 4-6 hours.

1-3 Meat near thighbone is no longer pink: cut to test. 4-6 hours.

2-4 Breast meat is moist but firm near bone: cut to test. 4-5 hours.

2-4 Breast meat is moist and faintly pink near

bone: cut to test. 4-6 hours.

1-3 Meat near thighbone is no longer pink: cut to test. 3-5 hours.

1-3 Breast meat is moist but firm near bone: cut to test. 3-5 hours

1 or 2 Breast meat is moist but firm near bone: cut to test. 1'/2-2 hours.

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18

Savory toppings stack up on 12-inch Mexican Platter Burger (facing page): Cheddar cheese, green chiles, tomatoes, guacamole, and sliced olives. Feature this show-stopping sandwich at a back-yard party for ten.

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F rom burgers t o steaks , ribs t o roasts, you're sure to please when you barbecue beef.

When friends stop by for a swim or a post­ game party, t reat them to a platter-size ham­ burger or fajitas - sliced skirt steak to be tucked into warm tort illas. Or, if you feel like splurging , choose a fest ive whole beef tenderloin or a bone­ less N ew York strip . And don' t neglect the less expensive cuts such as chuck and brisket . Mari­ nated before grilling and served rare or medium­ rare, they' re t ender and juicy, rivaling the more prest igious st eaks and roast s in flavor.

F or parties as well as more casual times, you can easily devise your own recipes for barbecued beef. Pair one of our marinades or sauces (pages 24 and 25) wit h your favorite cut of beef; then fol­ low the basic grilling times and techniques on pageS .

Pictured on facing page

Mexican Platter Burger

Grilling time: About 15 minutes

U sing two rimless baking sheets as "spatu­

las, " you can flip this platter- size hamburger neat ly and easily.

1 round loaf ( ll/2 lbs. ) French bread 1/2 cup W• lb.) butter or margarine.

softened

1 tablespoon chili powder

Toppings (directions follow) 1/4 cup prepared taco sauce

3 tablespoons instant minced onion 2 cloves garlic. minced or pressed

2 teaspoons each chili powder and oregano leaves

1 teaspoon ground cumin ll/2 teaspoons salt

21/2 pounds lean ground beef

8 ounces thinly sliced Cheddar cheese U sing a long, serrated knife , cut bread in half horizont ally.

In a small bowl, beat butter and the l table­ spoon chili powder until blended; spread evenly over c ut sides of bread. S et bread aside. Also prepare t oppings and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine taco sauce, onion , garlic, the 2 teaspoons chili powder, oregano, cumin , salt, and beef; mix well. Turn meat mix­ ture ont o a large baking sheet lined with wax paper; pat into a round patty l inch wider than

br ead (meat patty will be approximately 12 inches in diameter) .

Holding both ends of baking sheet, invert meat patty onto a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals. Lift off wax paper. Cook for about 7 minutes, then turn. To turn , use 2 rimless baking sheets. U sing one baking sheet as a pusher, slide patty onto second sh eet. Then hold pat ty bet ween baking sheets; invert sheets to flip patty. S lide patty back onto grill, cooked side up; overlap cheese slices on top. Cont inue t o cook until done to your liking; cut to test (about 7 more minutes for medium-rare).

S lide cooked burger back onto one baking sheet; keep warm. Place bread halves on grill, cut side down, and heat until lightly toasted . Cut top half of bread into wedges; keep warm. S lide burger onto bot tom half of bread . Arrange top­ pings over burger. Cut into serving-size wedges; accompany wit h bread wedges. Makes 8 to lO servings.

Toppings. Halve and pit 2 medium-size ripe avocados; scoop flesh int o a bowl and mash with a fork. St ir in 3 tablespoons lemon juice and sea­ son to t ast e with garlic salt and liquid hot pepper seasoning. Also have ready 2 cans (4 oz. each ) whole green chiles, drained , split , seeded , and flattened; 2 medium-size tomatoes, sliced; and 3 large pitted ripe olives, sliced.

Greek Platter Burger

Cut and butter bread as directed for Mexican Platter Burger, but substitute 2 cloves garlic (minced or pressed) for t he l t ablespoon chili powder.

F or the t oppings, beat 2 small packages (3 oz. each) cream cheese (softened) unt il smoot h ; stir in 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled . Also have ready l large mild red onion, sliced; 2 medium­ size tomatoes, sliced; l jar (6 oz. ) marinated arti­ choke hearts, drained; and a mint sprig.

F or t he meat patt y, combine 3 t ablespoons each lemon juice and instant minced onion; 3 cloves garlic (minced or pressed) ; 2 t easpoons oregano leaves; ¥4 t easpoon ground coriander; Wz teaspoons salt; V4 cup each finely chopped fresh mint and parsley; and l pound each lean ground beef and lean ground lamb. Mix thor­ oughly. S hape and grill as directed for Mexican Platter Burger, but omit Cheddar cheese.

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Soy-dipped Hamburgers

Grilling time: 8-10 minutes

Prepare t hese hamburger patt ies at home , t hen marinat e t hem en rout e t o a picnic sit e .

1/z cup each soy sauce and water 1 clove garlic. minced or pressed 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger 2 tablespoons Worcestershire

6 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar 3 pounds lean ground beef

8 hamburger buns or French rolls. split and buttered

Thinly sliced tomatoes Green bell pepper rings

In a bowl, mix soy, wat er, garlic , ginger, Worces­ t ershire, and sugar. S hape beef int o 8 patt ies,

each about l inch t hick; place in a large heavy­ dut y plast ic bag. Pour marinade over patt ies in bag; seal bag securely and rot at e t o dist ribut e marinade. Place in a shallow baking pan. Refrig­ erat e (or place in a picnic cooler) for 1 t o 2 hours .

Lift patt ies from marinade and drain briefly (reserve marinade). Place patt ies on a light ly greased grill 4 t o 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, t urning once and bast ing wit h mari­ nade, unt il done t o your liking; cut t o t est (8 t o 10 minut es for rare). When you t urn patt ies , place buns, cut side down, around out side of grill t o t oast . S erve patt ies on buns, wit h t omat oes and

bell pepper rings. Makes 8 servings.

Lebanese Hamburgers

Grilling time: About 12 minutes

St art by slow-cooking t he onions t o bring out t heir sweet ness. Then quickly grill t he spicy beef

patt ies and serve t he t wo t oget her.

1 tablespoon each ground cinnamon and

paprika 1\lz teaspoons salt

o/4 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne) Vz cup (Vc lb. ) butter or margarine

4 large onions. sliced

4 small tomatoes. cut into Vz-inch-thick slices Yogurt Sauce (recipe follows)

3 pounds lean ground beef 1/z cup water

12 hamburger buns. split and buttered

20 Beef

Combine cinnamon , paprika, salt , and red pep­ per; set aside. Melt 6 t ablespoons of t he butt er in a wide frying pan over low heat . Add onions and cook, st irring oft en , unt il pale golden and very soft (about 40 minut es); st ir in half t he spice mix­ t ure aft er 20 minut es. Transfer cooked onions t o a

heat proof dish and place in a 300° oven.

Melt remaining 2 t ablespoons butt er in frying pan over medium heat ; add t omat oes. Cook for

1 t o 2 minut es on each side. Dist ribut e t omat oes and any j uices over onions ; ret urn t o oven.

Prepare Yogurt S auce; cover and refrigerat e . In a bowl, blend remaining spice mixt ure wit h beef and wat er; t hen shape int o 12 patt ies, each about 4 inches in diamet er. Place patt ies on a light ly greased grill 4 t o 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, t urning once , unt il done t o your liking; cut t o t est (about 1 2 minut es for me­ dium). When you t urn patt ies, arrange buns, cut side down, around out side of grill t o t oast . S erve patt ies on buns, wit h onion mixture and Yogurt S auce. Makes 12 servings.

Yogurt Sauce. In a serving bowl , st ir t oget her 2 cups plain yogurt, l clove garlic (minced or pressed) , and l t ablespoon minced fresh mint.

Taco Burgers

Grilling time: 4-6 minutes

Cradle a beef patt y and some refried beans in a warm corn t ort illa; add t omat oes and avo­ cado, t hen drizzle wit h t aco sauce.

1 can (about l ib.) refried beans 2 medium-size tomatoes, sliced

large ripe avocado. pitted. peeled. sliced. and tossed with 2 teaspoons lemon juice pound lean ground beef

small onion. chopped V4 cup fine dry bread crumbs

1 egg. beaten

1 teaspoon Worcestershire V3 cup diced green chiles o/4 teaspoon ground cumin

6 corn tortillas Prepared taco sauce

Place beans in a pan and heat t hrough; keep warm. Place t omat oes and avocado in separat e dishes. In a bowl , combine beef, onion, bread crumbs, egg , Worcest ershire , chiles, and cumin.

(23)

Mix welL then shape into 6 rectangular patties, each about 3/a inch thick. Place patties on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, turning once, until browned and done to your liking; cut to test (4 to 6 minutes for medium-rare). To serve, heat tortillas on grill j ust until softened ( 1 5 to 20 seconds), turning often with tongs. Spread some beans on a tortilla , then place a meat patty, tomatoes, and avocado slices on one side. Drizzle with taco sauce and fold over; eat out of hand . Makes 6 servings .

Flank Steak

8t

Orange Slices

Grilling time: 10-14 minutes

In BraziL barbecued beef is often marinated in orange j uice before grilling , then served with sliced fresh oranges.

About 11/2 pounds flank steak. trimmed of excess fat

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons instant minced onion 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

lj, teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons salad oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

:y, teaspoon ground cumin

2 or 3 large oranges. peeled and sliced Place meat in a 9- by 13-inch dish. In a bowL stir together orange j uice, onion , garlic , pepper, oiL vinegar, and cumin. Pour over meat and turn meat to coat. Cover and refrigerate until next day, turning occasionally.

Lift meat from marinade and drain briefly (re­ serve marinade). Place meat on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, turning once and basting several times with marinade, until done to your liking ; cut to test ( 10 to 14 minutes for medium-rare). To serve, cut meat across the grain into thin slanting slices. Garnish with oranges. Makes 4 servings.

Flank Steak Italiano

Grilling time: About 14 minutes

®

Slicing this steak reveals savory ribbons of salami , onion , and cheese inside the meat.

About 11/2 pounds flank steak teaspoon dry basil

package (6 oz. ) sliced dry salami small mild white onion. thinly sliced package (6 oz. ) sliced provolone cheese Lay steak flat. With a sharp knife , cut a deep , long slit in center of a long edge, making a pocket almost as big as the steak; be careful not to cut through at sides or back. Open pocket; sprinkle basil inside. Arrange half the salami over bottom of pocket , then add onion, cheese , and remaining salami in even layers. Close with metal skewers.

Place steak on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals. Cook, turning once , until steak is done to your liking; cut to test (about 14 minutes for medium-rare). To serve, cut across the grain into \12-inch-thick slant­ ing slices. Makes 4 to 6 servings .

Sesame Flank Steak

Grilling time: 10-14 minutes

®

Both toasted sesame seeds and sesame oil

flavor this marinated steak. 1/4 cup sesame seeds

1/4 cup sliced green onions (including tops) 3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil or salad oil 1 tablespoon each vinegar. firmly packed

brown sugar. minced fresh ginger. and minced garlic

I teaspoon each dry mustard and Worcestershire

About l l/2 pounds flank steak. trimmed of excess fat

Toast sesame seeds in a wide frying pan over medium heat until golden (about 3 minutes) , shaking pan often. C rush seeds with a mortar and pestle , then place in a bowl and stir in onions, soy, oiL vinegar, sugar, ginger, garlic , mustard, and Worcestershire .

Place meat in a 9- by 1 3-inch dish . Pour mari­ nade over meat; turn meat to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or until next day.

Lift meat from marinade and drain briefly (re­ serve marinade). Place on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, turning once and basting with marinade, until done to your liking; cut to test ( 1 0 to 14 minutes for medium-rare). To serve, cut across the grain into thin slanting slices. Makes about 4 servings .

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Fajitas

Grilling time: 15-20 minutes

Along the Mexican border, fajitas (fa-HEE­

tas) means skirt steaks. Elsewhere, however, the word has become a catchall term for make-it­ yourself burritos filled with grilled meat.

3 pounds skirt steak. trimmed of excess fat

Y2 cup lime juice

l/3 cup salad oil

113 cup tequila or lime juice

4 cloves garlic. minced or pressed l l/2 teaspoons ground cumin

l teaspoon oregano leaves Y2 teaspoon pepper

4 or 5 small onions (unpeeled). cut in half lengthwise

8 to 10 green onions. rinsed well and drained

3 cans (about l ib. each ) refried beans Salsa Fresca (recipe follows) Guacamole (page 86)

16 to 20 flour tortillas. each about 8 inches in diameter

Sour cream

Fresh cilantro (coriander) sprigs

Cut steak crosswise into about 12-inch lengths, then arrange in a 9- by 13-inch dish. In a small bowl, stir together lime j uice, oil , tequila , garlic, cumin , oregano, and pepper. Pour over meat; turn meat to coat. Place onion halves, cut side down, in marinade alongside meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or until next day, turning meat occasionally.

Tie green onions together with string about 3 inches from roots to form a brush. Place beans in a large pan and heat through; keep warm. Prepare S alsa F resca and Guacamole.

Place onion halves on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook for about 7 minutes; turn over. Lift meat from mar­ inade and drain briefly (reserve marinade) . Place on grill. Baste meat and onion halves with mari­ nade, using green onion roots as a brush. Con­ tinue to cook onion halves until soft and browned (5 to 9 more minutes). Cook meat, turning once, until browned and done to your liking; cut to test (about 6 minutes for rare). Transfer cooked meat and onions to a carving board; keep warm . Roll green onion brush in marinade and lay on grill; turn often until tops are wilted (3 to 5 minutes). Place brush on board; remove string . Thinly slice meat across the grain.

2 2 Beef

Heat tortillas on grill as needed, turning often with tongs , j ust until softened ( 15 to 30 seconds) . Place a few meat slices down center of each tor­ tilla; top with some beans, a few pieces of onion from onion halves, S alsa F resca, Guacamole, sour cream, and cilantro. F old up bottom , then fold in sides to enclose. Eat green onion along­ side. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Salsa Fresca. In a bowl , stir together 3 large ripe tomatoes . diced, Vz cup chopped fresh cilan­ tro (coriander) . and 1 small onion. chopped. S eason to taste with 5 to 7 tablespoons seeded , minced fresh hot chiles, 3 to 4 tablespoons lime juice, and salt.

Pictured on facing page

Skirt Steaks with Fresh Herbs

Grilling time: 5-6 minutes

F resh herbs add a tantalizing aroma and flavor to barbecued meats. The heat of the coals releases the herbs' volatile oils, which are ab­ sorbed by the meat j uices during grilling.

ll/2 to 2 pounds skirt steak. trimmed of excess fat

l/2 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 clove garlic. minced or pressed Yc teaspoon pepper

25 to 30 fresh thyme, rosemary. or tarragon sprigs. each about 3 inches long

Cut steak crosswise into about 12-inch lengths, then arrange in a 9- by 13-inch dish. In a small bowl, mix oil , vinegar, mustard, garlic, and pepper. Pour over meat; turn meat to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or until next day, turning occasionally.

S oak herb sprigs in water to cover for about 30 minutes.

Lift meat from marinade and drain briefly (re­ serve marinade). Weave each piece of meat onto a long metal skewer, rippling meat very slightly and tucking an herb sprig between skewer and meat on both sides of meat.

Place skewers on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, turn­ ing often and basting with marinade, until done to your liking; cut to test (5 to 6 minutes for rare). Makes about 6 servings.

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Fresh herbs twine around skewered skirt steaks soaked in a zesty mustard marinade (facing page) . Accompany the quick-to-cook meat with butter-basted grilled toma­

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Marinades, Sauces

&

Butters

The smoky flavor of meat , fish, and poultry cooked over charcoal can be readily en­ hanced in three ways-by marinating before grilling, basting with a simple sauce during

cooking, or topping with a dollop of flavored butter at serving time.

Here are some of our favorite marinades, sauces, and butters; for each one, we've noted compatible foods . To create your own barbe­ cue recipes, match up a marinade or sauce with your choice of meat , poultry, or seafood; then follow the grilling times and techniques on pages 8 to 12. (For more marinade and baste recipes, check the index. )

Marinades

A heavy-duty plastic bag is neat and handy for marinating; you can also use a covered, close-fitting bowl or pan. To give flavors plenty of time to soak in, let beef. pork, and lamb marinate for at least an hour-or, if pos­ sible, until the next day. (Poultry and fish need not marinate as long . ) Turn meat sev­ eral times while it's marinating; brush any re­ maining marinade over meat during cooking. Most marinades contain wine, vinegar, or citrus juice, all of which help tenderize meat . For some less tender cuts, you might also want to apply unseasoned meat tenderizer. Honey-Wine Marinade

Use on lamb roasts, lamb chops, and turkey parts. Melt 2 tablespoons butter or margarine in a small pan over medium heat. Remove from heat and stir in l cup dry white wine. 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar. l/3 cup honey. l teaspoon finely chopped fresh mint or crumbled dry mint, and 2 cloves gar­ lic (minced or pressed) . Makes about l l/2 cups .

24 Marinades, Sauces & Bastes

Wine-Garlic Marinade Especially good with beef.

In a bowl. stir together l cup dry red wine. 2 table­ spoons red wine vinegar. 2 cloves garlic (minced or pressed), l teaspoon oregano leaves. and 2 table­ spoons salad oil. Makes about 1\14 cups .

Dijon Marinade

Good choice for chicken wings and spareribs. I n a bowl, stir together l/2 cup salad oil; l/4 cup each white wine vinegar. finely chopped shallots. and Dijon mustard; and 2 cloves garlic (minced or pressed) . Makes about l cup.

Teriyaki Marinade

Use on beef, pork, or chicken.

In a bowl. stir together o/3 cup soy sauce. l/3 cup honey. 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger. 3 table­ spoons dry sherry. l/2 cup salad oil. l clove garlic (minced or pressed), and l/2 cup thinly sliced green onions (including tops). Makes about l¥4 cups. Apple

1

uice Marinade

Try on chicken quarters or pork chops.

In a bowl. mix l/2 cup apple juice. l/4 cup each soy sauce and honey. 2 tablespoons lemon juice, l/2 tea­ spoon garlic powder. and l/4 teaspoon each dry mustard and ground ginger. Makes l l/4 cups .

Basting Sauces

For a flavorful alternative to marinades, try brushing a basting sauce on food as it grills . To prevent scorching and flare-ups. apply sauces that are high in sugar or fat only dur­ ing the last few minutes of cooking. If there's sauce remaining. heat it and pass at the table. Beef Barbecue Sauce

Also delicious on spareribs and chicken.

Melt l/2 cup ( l/4 lb . ) butter or margarine in a 2-quart pan over medium heat; add l large clove garlic

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(minced or pressed) and V4 cup minced onion. Cook, stirring often, until onion is soft (about lO minutes). Stir in 3 tablespoons catsup; 2 tablespoons each minced parsley, lemon juice. and red wine vine­ gar; 1 teaspoon each dry mustard and liquid hot pepper seasoning; Va teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne); and Y4 cup beer. Bring to a boil; then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered. until flavors are blended (about 5 minutes). Makes about 1 cup. Herb Butter Baste

Use as a baste on poultry or any cut of veal. Melt 6 tablespoons butter or margarine in a small pan over medium heat . Remove from heat and stir in 1 clove garlic (minced or pressed); ¥'4 teaspoon pepper; Vz teaspoon each thyme. sage. oregano. and marjoram leaves; and Vz teaspoon dry basil. Makes about Vz cup.

Parsley-Orange Baste

Brush over lamb, turkey, or pork kebabs.

Melt Vz cup ( V4 lb. ) butter or margarine in a small pan over medium heat; stir in 2 tablespoons grated orange peel. 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley, and 2 tablespoons honey. Remove from heat and stir in V4 cup lemon juice. Makes about I cup. Mediterranean Basting Sauce

Brush over cuts of lamb or beef.

Melt V4 cup butter or margarine in a small pan over medium heat; remove from heat and stir in 3 table­ spoons lemon juice, 4 cloves garlic (minced or pressed), and Vz teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary or oregano leaves. Makes about Vz cup.

Ginger-Hoisin Basting Sauce Use as a glaze for pork and chicken.

In a bowl, stir together o/3 cup hoisin sauce. V3 cup dry sherry or water, 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger. 4 large cloves garlic (minced or pressed). and l tablespoon sesame oil. Makes about 1 cup.

Lemon Butter Baste

Delicious on fish, shellfish, and veal.

Melt Y4 cup butter or margarine in a small pan over medium heat. Remove from heat and stir in V4 cup lemon juice. dry sherry. or dry vermouth. If desired, add Y4 teaspoon each dry rosemary and thyme leaves or Vz teaspoon dry tarragon . Makes about Vz cup.

Flavored Butters

Flavored butters make excellent bastes-just melt them, then brush over food as it grills. Or bring them to room temperature, then spoon atop hot-from-the-grill meats and vegetables. Prepare and refrigerate butters up to a week in advance so flavors have a chance to blend . Green Butter

Delicious on grilled vegetables, meat, fish.

In a blender or food processor, combine Vz cup (Y4 lb. ) butter or margarine (softened); Vz cup lightly packed fresh basil. mint . or watercress leaves or Vz

cup lightly packed parsley sprigs; and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Whirl until well blended; scrape down sides of container often. Makes about o/3 cup. Ginger & Lime Butter

Complements chicken, veal, and fish.

Peel and mince one 2-inch-long piece fresh ginger. In a blender or food processor, combine ginger, l cup ( Vz lb . ) butter or margarine (softened), l tea­ spoon coarsely ground pepper. V4 cup lime juice. and l teaspoon grated lime peel. Whirl until blended; scrape down sides of container often . Makes about I cup.

Mustard Butter

Serve atop beef, lamb, ham, or chicken.

In a bowL combine l cup ( Vz lb . ) butter or margarine (softened). 4 teaspoons dry mustard. 1 teaspoon Worcestershire. V4 teaspoon garlic salt. Va teaspoon pepper, and 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley. Beat until smooth and well blended . Makes about I cup. Sesame Butter

Flavorful accent for meats, poultry, and vegetables. In a wide frying pan. toast Y4 cup sesame seeds over medium heat until golden (about 3 minutes). shaking pan often. Let cool. In a bowl, beat Vz cup (Y4 lb. ) butter or margarine (softened) until fluffy; add sesame seeds and beat until well blended. Makes about ¥'4 cup.

DiU Butter

Especially good on fish and shellfish.

In a bowL beat Vz cup (Y4 lb. ) butter or margarine (softened) until fluffy; beat in V4 cup chopped fresh dill. Makes about ¥'4 cup.

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26

Hibachi-grilled Indonesian Beef Skewers (facing page) star at this Southeast Asian dinner. Alongside offer peanut sauce, purchased chili sauce, coconut, and rice (colored yellow with turmeric).

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Pictured on facing page

Indonesian Beef Skewers

Grilling time: 8-10 minutes

Salay is probably the best-known Southeast Asian food: Indonesia , Malaysia, and Singapore all claim it as their national dish. In this version , cubes of beef are grilled and served with a spicy peanut sauce.

lV2 pounds lean boneless beef sirloin 1 clove garlic. minced or pressed 2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon salad oil

1 teaspoon each ground cumin and coriander

Basting Sauce (recipe follows) Peanut Sauce (recipe follows)

Cut beef into l-inch cubes. In a bowl, combine garlic, soy, oil , cumin, and coriander. Add beef and stir to coat; then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or until next day, stirring occasionally.

Prepare Basting Sauce and Peanut Sauce. Also soak lO to 12 long bamboo skewers in hot water to cover for at least 30 minutes or until next day.

Lift meat from marinade and drain briefly (discard marinade). Thread 4 or 5 pieces of meat on each skewer.

Arrange skewers on a lightly greased grill 2 to 4 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, turning often, until well browned and done to your liking; cut to test (8 to lO minutes for medium­ rare). About 3 minutes before meat is done, brush all over with Basting Sauce. Serve with Peanut Sauce. Makes 4 to 6 servings .

Basting Sauce. I n a bowl, mix 3 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and \14 teaspoon each ground cumin and ground coriander. If made ahead, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Peanut Sauce. In a 2-quart pan , combine l cup water, :V3 cup creamy peanut butter, and 2 cloves garlic (minced or pressed). Cook over medium­ low heat, stirring, until mixture boils and thick­ ens. Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar, l Y2 tablespoons lemon juice, l tablespoon soy sauce, and V4 to Vz teaspoon crushed red pepper. Serve hot. If made ahead, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days . To reheat, stir over low heat until hot, adding

more water, if needed, to restore to original consistency.

Ripple-skewered Steak

Grilling time: About 15 minutes

Sliced bacon, " rippled" over and under beef cubes, apple quarters, and mushrooms, lends its smoky flavor to these festive skewers. Keep a water-filled spray bottle handy to extinguish any flare-ups.

1V2 to 2 pounds tender boneless beef steak (from the rib, loin, or fillet) , cut about lV2

inches thick

Red Wine Marinade (recipe follows) 8 small white boiling onions

8 slices bacon 8 large mushrooms

2 large Red Delicious apples, cored and quartered

Cut beef into sixteen l Vz-inch cubes; place in a large bowl. Prepare Red Wine Marinade and pour over meat; stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or until next day, stirring several times.

Lift meat from marinade and drain briefly (re­ serve marinade) . Then assemble 4 skewers. For each one, run tip of a long , sturdy metal skewer through l onion, then through one end of a bacon slice. Pierce l mushroom through stem ; lap bacon over it and pierce bacon. Thread on l beef cube; lap bacon over and pierce it. Add l apple quarter and l more beef cube, lapping bacon over each; secure bacon end on skewer. Starting with an­ other bacon slice, repeat threading and "rip­ pling" with l more mushroom , another beef cube, an apple quarter, and a final beef cube. Secure bacon end; add l more onion.

Place skewers on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals. Cook, turning and basting with marinade, until bacon is crisp and beef cubes are done to your liking; cut to test (about 1 5 minutes for medium-rare). Makes 4 servings.

Red Wine Marinade. In a small bowl, stir to­ gether ¥4 cup dry red wine, Vz cup salad oiL

l tablespoon each minced onion and Worcester­ shire, I/3 cup catsup, l teaspoon dry rosemary, V4 teaspoon pepper, and 6 drops liquid hot pep­ per seasoning.

References

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