Tech Knowledgebase

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Tech Knowledgebase

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Interior/Audio Tech

1

01+ Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install

1

Easy Starter Kill Switch

2

Full Time Power Outlets

3

Install a Mini Tachometer

3

Toggled Door Buzzer

4 1995.5-2004

1995.5-2004

7

4Runner Tweeter Pod Install (Pre-01 only)

7

Stock Speaker Size Chart

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Increase Your 2003 Keyless Remote Range

10

Dash Take-Apart Instructions

11

Disable the flashing seat belt light

19

Change the Backlight Color of Your Gauges

20

White-Faced Climate Control Panel

20

Program your factory keyless entry functions

23

2003 Keyless Entry System Upgrade

25

Rear Interior Disassembly (Double Cab)

34

Remove Rear Door Panels (Double Cab)

38

Removing Front Door Panels (01-04)

41

Factory Alarm Piezo Buzzer Disable

46

Seat Installations I: Transplanting Seats Into Your Truck

48

Seat Installations II: Installing Aftermarket Seats

53

Door Panel Removal and Recovering

61

Toyota VIP Keyless/Security Installation Instructions

73

Replace Your Dash Lights with LEDs (95-04)

73

Upgrade/Install Map Lights in 95.5-2004 Trucks

86

2001-2004 XtraCab Rear Speaker Access/Removal

91 2005+

2005+

94

Disable 2005+ Door Buzzer

94

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Interior/Audio Tech

01+ Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install

Things that are needed:

Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Additional O2 Sensor (Cannot Use Factory Sensor) Butt Connectors & 16-18 Gauge Wire (red and black will do)

A Lift If Available(makes install much easier)

I bought a Autometer C2 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (Part #7175) and also a ignition bezel w/o a clock. Cut a 2 1/16 hole in that then mounted the air/fuel gauge in there.

(http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-012F.JPG)

Instead of just purchasing a O2 sensor from a local parts store, i opted for the autometer O2 sensor kit which is designed to work with all autometer air/fuel gauges (Part

#2244)(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/atm-2244.jpg)The 2244 kit comes with 3 wires that consist of a purple wire used to monitor the air/fuel ratio, and a heater positive and negative wire that helps warm up the 02 sensor so it will give readings faster. Next comes the hard part. You need to go to a local muffler place (midas, meineke) and have them weld in the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor must be welded in after where the header is bolted to the exhaust pipe and before the first catalytic converter. IT MUST NOT be in line with the air/fuel sensor at all! Adding in the additional O2 sensor will change the flow of exhaust through the pipe. When that flow is altered the air/fuel sensor may not read properly causing your engine to run poorly and check engine lights may occur. (picture of the setup coming soon)

Next is running the wires and loom into the cab of the truck. Remove your passenger side door sill and lift the carpet up just a bit. There should be a grommet on the floor.(if not drill a hole and install a grommet) I ran the loom/wires from the exhaust pipe through there and then under the dash. Key note* Wiretie the loom somewhere that is away from the exhaust pipe but not in line with your front right tire. Bad weather such as snow and ice could get on the loom eventually causing it to break open and expose wires. Remove the panel below the driver side steering column so its easier to get to wires.Run the wires under the carpet and close to the firewall(so the passenger shouldnt feel the loom under the carpet when their feet are on it) You will need to tap a few wires under your dash. Positive, Accessory, Illumination & Ground. Use a test light to figure out which wires do what. This part will most likely be different on other trucks because i have a boost gauge as well. My 2 gauges share the same illumination wire. I tapped the wire coming off of the factory rheostat (dimmer switch) so when i turn on my headlights, the gauges light as well. If you want to install a dimmer for just the gauges, you will need a potentiometer/rheostat.

Wiring should be as follows. Toyota rheostat illumiation wire to one post on the aftermarket potentiometer/rheostat. Other post to illumination wire for air/fuel gauge. YOU CANNOT USE A POTENTIOMETER/RHEOSTAT ON THE GROUND OR POSITIVE WIRE FOR THESE GAUGES! Doing so will limit the amount of voltage to the meter causing it not to work properly. Illumination wire is the ONLY wire that can be used for dimming purposes. After you finish all of your connections, run motor and make sure gauge is working properly, turn lights on and off making sure gauge illuminates correctly. Use electrical tape over any butt connectors/spliced wires to ensure no 2 wires can touch causing a short. Put back on the panel underneath the steering column and enjoy a nice new air/fuel ratio gauge.

http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-010F.JPG http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/185483-Mvc-007f.jpg http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/185483-Mvc-004f.jpg

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** More work is needed on this article -I'll get to it at some point --Jeff **

Easy Starter Kill Switch

By: Blangkang

Most good anti-theft systems have one common feature: starter kill. This feature alone is enough to prevent a vehicle from getting stolen, or at least slow the the thief down or frusterate him until he gives up.

On Tacomas equipped with a manual transmission, there is a clutch sensor that tells your ECU if the clutch is being depressed so it can start the engine. If you disconnect that sensor, the truck won't start. So, the idea is to create a switched circuit that can be toggled to create a homemade starter kill system.

This tech article described how to install such a security upgrade on an 05' Tacoma X-Runner. Please note that the wiring locations/directions will most likely be different on pre-05 models. Tools needed:

Tools needed: - a toggle switch

- Amount of 16-18g wire need to run the switch to your location - Handful of wire connects / solder gun & solder

- Electrical tape and black wire loom - Wire cutters/strippers

The first step in this process is to find a secret location for your switch. It is a good idea to put the switch somewhere that is not obvious but easily accessible.

Next, you are going to locate the clutch sensor that's just left of your clutch. The wire you're going to cut is the BLACK and BLUE.

With the wire cut, connect both cut ends to the new wires that leads to your switch. Make sure your connections are soldered or made with secure wire connectors. You don't want this connection to be undependable.

Make sure you protect the wires with electrical tape. Also, it may be a good idea to put black wire loom on your new wire leads to make the installation appear stock.

Operation is simple: When you exit your truck, simply turn the switch off. Before you attempt to start your truck, simply turn the switch back on.

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I know this is not going to STOP someone who wants to steal your truck - if they want it that bad they will get it. But this easy modification will either stop or delay them.

Full Time Power Outlets

By: ZR2Steve

This modification will enable the power outlets for your accessories to have full time power even when the ignition is turned off. This can be useful if you have a CB radio with a re-set feature, or a cell phone charger, map lights etc. Once completed, you must be careful not to leave any devices running or charging for too long and drain your battery.

Look at the fuse box under the hood, the cover shows the location of the fuses, relays, etc marked on the cover. You will see a block marked PWR OUTLET. Now remove the cover and locate that relay, using the the map on the cover. Remove that relay, it pulls up, but may need to be wiggled. If you look at the socket there are 4 plugs, 2 small & 2 large plugs. The large plugs use standard male crimp connectors, those are the two you want to jump.

Now make a short, (appox 2) wire with two stardard flat male crimp connectors and plug this wire into the only two socket that stardard connectors will fit into, where the removed relay was. <img src=files/148-PowerOutlet-2s.JPG alt=Enlarge border=1>

Here is the jumper installed. If you would like to check the work before you turn on the key that is OK. Put the jumper in and BEFORE you turn on the key, see if your sockets have power.

Another thing you may want to verify - is that the line is still fused. To test, pull the stock fuse, and see if the outlets still have power. If they don't, then the line is still fused.

You may want to keep the unused relay in a 35mm film canister for a spare. The canister will keep it in good condition and is easily stored in the truck somewhere.

Install a Mini

Install a Mini Tachometer

Tachometer

By: Paul Vincent

The following covers my custom installation of an AutoMeter MiniTach (about $60) with the wiring done completely in-cab on my '98 Tacoma Extended Cab.

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Deciding on the place to put the tachometer was where I began. I decided to mount it on the steering column right in front of the speedometer for a clean, low-profile look. To mount it, I marked the centerline on the cover with a permanent marker and then drilled the holes necessary for the base to be lined up. Sheet metal screws came with the tachometer so I used a small squared shaped piece of sheet metal underneath the plastic cover to help secure the base on the plastic cover (NOTE: The tips of the screws were ground down so that the cover would fit without the screws hitting surfaces inside the steering column.) I then loosely attached the tachometer to see how it fit in the dash and everything looked fine - plenty of clearance from the steering wheel and the speedometer was still easily readable with the tachometer adjusted at different angles. <img border=1 src=files/tach_install/Tach_tn.gif align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>

Once the fitment of the tachometer on the column cover was finished, the focus shifted to routing the wiring. For ease of connection, I decided to connect the tachometer to my in-dash Sony CD wiring harness adapter using the ground spade connector, 12V+ ignition wire, and dash illumination wire. The tachometer wires travel from the back of the tachometer, under the gauge pod, along the kick panel (going over the parking brake) to the center console. The tachometer 12V+ ignition (red wire), illumination (white wire), and ground (black wire) were soldered to the wiring adapter's 12V+ wire, dash lighting wire, and spade ground terminal. I secured the grounding spade connection to the left bolt of the parking brake bracket. The tach signal wire (green) was routed past the center console interior to the passenger side kick panel area towards the computer (which is behind the glove box) - which brings us to the next step: finding the right ECM circuit to use for the tach signal. <img border=1 src=files/tach_install/wiring_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>

After getting the wiring diagram manual, I found which connection to use on the ECM. ECM connector E8 (the 26 pin connector on the left) contains the ignition signal that should be used (the IGF signal - Black/Yellow wire to pin 17 of connector). The green tachometer wire was temporarily inserted into the back of E8 connector pin 17 to verify that it was the correct one. Once verified (the engine was able to start and the tachometer was reading), the green tachometer wire was spliced to the IGF signal wire (see image at right).

<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/B_tn.jpg align=left vspace=8 hspace=8> After it was installed I checked out how it performed.

The Tacoma was on stock wheels and tires and the AutoMeter MiniTach checked out as follows: Idle:

Idle:750 - 800 rpm

2nd gear at just less than 55mph:

2nd gear at just less than 55mph:~5,300rpm 5th gear at 55mph:

5th gear at 55mph:~2,000rpm

Matches nearly perfectly the top speeds in each gear per owners manual. I don't know why Toyota decided most 5 speed Tacoma's don't need tachometers, but as this has shown you, it's not really that hard to add what should have been there from the start in a manual transmission vehicle.

Toggled Door Buzzer

By: Randy Hobart

You're cleaning your truck at the car wash and you want to listen to the stereo while you're working on the interior... but the door chime isn't quite flattering to your tunes. For whatever reason, you would like to have your keys in the ignition while your door is open, but you want the door chime to JUST STOP!!! Here's an easy little fix that won't completely disable your door switch. Just add a toggle switch in-line to your door button.

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Adding a toggle switch is simple since the door button is simply a one-wire switch that completes the circuit when the door is opened.

Parts/Materials Needed: 1 small toggle switch 2 feet of 18 ga. electrical wire 2 female wire connectors 2 wire butt connectors

Tools Needed:

Phillips head screwdriver 10 mm nut driver / socket Wire Cutters

Estimated Time: less than 1 Hour

Procedure:

I stopped by AutoZone and picked up a tiny toggle switch. This particular one uses a 1/2 x 3/4 opening. There is a vast array of toggle switches available -your selection may vary.

Cut 2 pieces of 18 ga. wire into 12 inch lengths. Crimp female connectors to one end of each of the wires. Depending on your mounting location, you might wish to have longer wires.

Connect one wire to the ground prong of the toggle switch and the other wire to one of the power prongs. (at this point, it doesn't matter which of the 2 power prongs, either one will work the same)

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Remove the door sill trim, kick panel, and lower dash panel.

I chose to to mount my toggle switch just inside my fuse access panel. The tiny toggle switch just happened to fit perfectly onto the side of the plastic dash frame.

Locate the door switch wiring. You may have to move components out of the way to access these wires. I had to remove the alarm module.

The door switch wire is a

red wire coming out of the body panel, butt-connected to a small green wire. Cut the green wire, leaving enough wire

at each end to attach a new butt-connector.

Route the 2 new wires to the spliced green wire. Use butt-connectors to attach the ends of the new wires. It does not matter which end matches up to the green wire ends.

Replace all of the dash components and trim pieces.

With the door open, insert your keys and toggle the switch. If all was completed properly, the key buzzer will toggle on and off with the switch.

The inevitable downside to this toggle switch is that it also disables the dome light. It would also be possible to add a toggle switch for the passenger door(s). But the key buzzer is only triggered by the driver's door.

Now you have the option of turning the buzzer off. Just be sure not to lock your keys in your truck!

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1995.5-2004

4Runner Tweeter Pod Install (Pre-01 only)

Many Tacoma enthusiasts are audiophiles, or at least want better, more accurate sound from their sound system. Installing a good set of component speakers can quickly and easily improve your Tacoma's stereo. One of the problems we all face is the fact that there are no easy places to mount the tweeters that come with a component speaker system. However, someone recently discovered that factory 4Runner tweeter pods will easily mount in any Tacoma, due to the fact that the interior of the two trucks is so similar. Below is a detailed account of my experience installing factory 4Runner tweeter pods in my 1999 2wd Tacoma.

Order Parts:

Go to your local Toyota dealership and order a set of 98-00 Toyota 4Runner door plastics for the model with the 6-speaker sound system. Here is the actual part number and description:

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Part #: 67492-35010-CO Description: Garnish, FR Door LWR Part #: 67491-35010-CO Description: Garnish, FR Door LWR

You'll need to order 1 of each of the parts above. One is for the driver's door, the other is for the passenger door. I'm not sure which is which, since I've already installed them. The price should be somewhere around $20 each.

Installation:

The tweeters that I installed in the pods are 3/4 Rockford Fosgate Fanatic X series tweeters. It appears as though 3/4 is about the largest tweeter you can squeeze into these pods, but you may be able to fit a 1 tweeter in there.

First, remove your factory door triangle pieces and compare them to your new 4Runner pieces. You'll probably notice that the two aren't exactly the same. The 4Runner plastics are a little taller and cause the plastic snaps to not line up. I cut about 1/4 off of the bottom of each of the pods with a hack saw to make them fit. I used a Dremmel tool to smooth the edges when I was done. I'll cover these pieces later with some material to cover up the semi-rough looking edges.

Also, if you compare the round snaps that attach the pod to the door, you'll notice that there is a clear plastic boot on the snap on the new piece. This boot will need to be removed in order for the snap to fit in the Tacoma's mounting hole. See photo for more detail.

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Next, you'll need to mount your tweeters in the pods. Since there is no built-in way to do this, I used packing tape to hold the tweeters in there (Shhh, don't tell anybody). I have yet to see if this will hold. I may need to use something else. Also, don't forget to attach a long enough speaker wire to reach all the way down through your door and into the cab to your crossover unit.

Next, I removed the entire door panel and door speaker mount so that I could feed the speaker wire through the boot and into the cab. Feeding the wire in through this boot was about the hardest part of this installation. I found a straightened coat hanger works really well for this.

Next, I connected the speaker wire to my crossover, re-installed my door panel, and I was done! It took me almost two hours to do the first one (mostly because I had to trim the 4Runner pods) and only about an hour to do the second one.

Best of all, they sound and look great!!

Stock Speaker Size Chart

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Cabs, and Double Cabs:  1995-2000  Front Rear Regular Cab 6.5 N/A Extended Cab 6.5 6.75 (or 6.5s) 2001-up  Front Rear Regular Cab 6x8 N/A Extended Cab 6x8 6x8 Double Cab 6x8 6x8

Increase Your 2003 Keyless Remote Range

For many 2003 Model Tocomas, the range on the factory keyless entry remote is

far less than desirable. In my case, I had a 2002 model that had very decent range. But I then got into a 2003 model, and the remote range was a far cry shorter. I do not have an explination as to why it is so dramatically insufficient compared to previous models, but I certainly wanted to find a way to improve it. This method simply lengthens the antenna.

To lengthen the antenna, you will need to add about 4 or 5 feet of wire to the end of the antenna with a butt-connector.

The antenna is located under the driver side dash. 

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

It is a small, grey wire with a black stripe. There should be about 6 or 7 inches of the end of it hanging freely from the harness. It is just behind and to the right of the fuse cluster. (It is not necessary to remove any dash panels to access the wire - the dash is removed in the picture for clarity.)

The best way to feed the extension wire is to first feed it from the top corner of the dash, at the A-pillar. The A-pillar trim will most likely need to be removed. Once the wire is fed down behind the dash, use a butt-connector to attach the 2 wire ends.

Run the wire up the A-Pillar and tuck the remaining wire up into the front of the headliner, along the windshield.

Testing the range, I found that it increased at least double it's previous range. The increase is not staggering, by any means, but it is improved. I estimate that I now have a range of 35 to 40 feet.

Dash Take-Apart Instructions

By: MTB_taco, MadAktion, Jeff

These instructions will help you take your dash apart to gain access to the instrument cluster and stereo receiver. Always pay attention to the disassembly procedure to remember how to re-assemble the dash.

Tools Needed:

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Stubby Phillips Head Screwdriver Small Hook Tool OR Flat Head Screwdriver Phillips Head Screwdriver 10mm Nut Driver or Socket

1: Remove all of the temperature control knobs, including the A/C button (95-00 models).

Using a small hook or a flat-head screwdriver, carefully pull the control panel straight out. It will pop out with a slight tug.

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2: Remove two phillips head screws from behind temperature control panel.

3: Remove ashtray and remove the phillips head screw on upper right side 

4: Carefully remove center black dash molding. This can be easily done by grabbing the plastic between the vents and the temperature controls and pulling toward you and slightly down. It

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will pop out with a slight tug.

5: Disconnect the air bag harness, if applicable. 

At this point, you have access to the stereo receiver. The stereo brackets are attached using 4 10mm bolts. These bolts also have a phillips head, but it is recommended that you use a 10mm socket to remove them.

If you wish to gain access to the instrument cluster, continue reading...

6: Remove the (4) 10mm nuts from the dash molding below the steering wheel. Unscrew the Phillips screw under the left vent.

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7: Remove 2 phillips screws that hold the hood release mechanism in place. Manuver the hood release lever free from the dash molding. (The hood release lever may be left in place for the dash panel to lay in the floorboard, if desired)

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8: Carefully pull off the panel. There are clips holding the left side, which will pop off with a slight tug. If you are accessing the instrument cluster, this panel does not need to be completely removed, but rather just dropped down.

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9: Now, remove the clock and keyhole panel. It will pop straight off with a slight tug.

10:Next unscrew the black trim around the gauges. There are two screws under the upper panel of the gauge trim panel. This is where the stubby Phillips head screwdriver comes in handy.

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11: Next pull the gauge trim out. Pull gently and take care not to pull too hard. If you have a tilt steering wheel, make sure it is tilted all the way down. There are several clips that will pop out with a slight tug.

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12: As you pull the gauge trim panel out, disconnect any applicable accesory harnesses: hazard flashers, ECT, clutch start cancel, rear locker, and the dimmer switch.

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13: Remove the 4 phillips screws that hold the instrument cluster in place. There are two on each side.

14: Pull the instrument cluster partially out and disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses and remove cluster

To gain access under the dash on the passenger side, remove the 2 Phillips head screws just beneath the glove box. Unlatch the glove box and take it out.

Disable the flashing seat belt light

IMPORTANT! ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SEATBELT!

This mod is strictly for disabling the flashing light - not intended for operating your truck without wearing your seatbelt. This mod is only posted due to frequent inquiry.

For whatever reason, you may wish to disable the flashing fasten seat belt light in your dash. Here is a very quick and simple solution.

Underneath the driver seat, there is a set of wires that connect to the seat belt latch. Just beneath the carpet, the wire is connected with a connector. Simply unplug the connector.

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To reverse the mod, re-connect the connector.

Alternate procedure for Power Lumbar Seats:

For those of you who have the luxury of power lumbar seats, disconnecting the wires will disable your lumbar. As an alternative, locate the 2 wires leading to the seat belt latch, at the side of the seat. Cut one of the wires to disable the light. It is highly recommended to install protective quick-disconnect butt-connectors to the ends of the snipped wires for easy re-activation. Additionally, it is recommended to apply electrical tape to the ends of the disconnected wires.

Change the Backlight Color of Your

Change the Backlight Color of Your Gauges

Gauges

By: AFP520 

First, to access your instrument cluster, follow the Dash Take-Apart Instructions.

Once you have access to the back side of your instrument cluster, you will find (4) 194 bulbs. Simply swap out those bulbs with any 194 type you want.

I used Polarg B1 Hybrid 194 Xenon bulbs and I am very pleased with the results.

Before putting your dash all back together, I recommend testing the lights to make sure they work. Also, don't forget to hook the dimmer switch back up. Otherwise, the lights won't work at all.

White-Faced Climate Control Panel

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Here's a quick install demonstration for a Nu Image white face climate control panel.

Here is the stock control panel compared to the new panel.

The panel is like an adhesive sticker, but it does not mount over the factory panel.

The factory black piece is simply mounted with adhesive backing. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pop it out a bit and it comes right off.

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There you have it... a new white face climate control panel.

Program your factory keyless entry functions

For 2001+ Tacomas equipped with a factory alarm or keyless entry, here are some programming options that allow you to adjust the way your locks work.

The first programming option allows you to set the entry unlock to: (A) unlock the driver door with one push, and the remaining doors with a second push OR (B) unlock all of the doors with a single push.

Open the driver's door. Remove the key from the ignition switch. (Complete these steps within 40 seconds)

Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 2 times. (IN - OUT - IN - OUT)

Close, then open the driver's door 2 times. (SHUT - OPEN - SHUT - OPEN)

Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 1 time. (IN - OUT)

Close, then open the driver's door 2 times. (SHUT - OPEN - SHUT - OPEN)

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Insert the key into the ignition switch and leave it in. Close the driver's door.

Turn the key from LOCK to ON 4 times, ending at LOCK (LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK)

Wait for the locks to stop, then remove the key from the ignition switch.

On the key fob, press and release both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time. [For all doors unlock] press and release the UNLOCK button.

[For driver door unlock] press and release the LOCK button.

Open the driver's door. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.



The second programming option allows you to set the doors to lock when when the key is turned on, and unlock when the key is turned off.

Open the driver's door. Remove the key from the ignition switch. (Complete these steps within 30 seconds)

Insert the key into the ignition switch. Close, then open the driver's door 2 times. (SHUT - OPEN - SHUT - OPEN)

Turn the key from LOCK to ON 5 times, ending at ON (LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON)

Programming option (select one of the following). [Ignition controlled lock ON] Close the driver's door.

[Ignition controlled lock OFF] Close the driver's door twice, leaving it closed. (SHUT - OPEN - SHUT)

Turn the key to LOCK. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.



When performing the programming, the park lights may or may not flash to confirm that the program was accepted. The only way to confirm the programming is to test them to see if they are functioning as desired.

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These procedures may or may not apply to pre-2001 models.



You can also find an official Toyota TSB on this topic by viewing this PDF. 

2003 Keyless Entry System

2003 Keyless Entry System Upgrade

Upgrade

By: Randy Hobart

If you have a 2003 Tacoma equipped with the factory Keyless Entry system, this simple tip will upgrade it to a fully functional alarm.

(This tip has only been successfully tested on 2003 models - older models may not have the proper wiring configuration)

When Toyota builds their 2003 Tacoma, the Keyless Entry system is installed with all of the basic components required for the Alarm upgrade. In fact, the only component that needs to be added is the glass-breakage sensor. (This is a small dash-mounted component that also includes an LED warning light)

The glass-breakage sensor and LED are not required for the Alarm to function. Follow this simple step to convert the Keyless Entry into an Alarm...

(In the photos, the lower dash panel has been removed for clarity - the lower dash panel does not need to be removed to access the wiring)

Under the driver-side dash, just to the left of the steering column, locate a single-pin connector and disconnect it. This connector is taped up to the wiring harness.

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Leave the connector disconnected and re-tape it back against the wiring to secure it. THATS IT!  A free Alarm upgrade.

A note about the alarm functionality:

This modification converts your keyless entry system into an alarm that functions the same as the Toyota factory alarm, with the exception of a glass-breakage sensor. The factory alarm is NOT equipped with a motion sensor or a shock sensor. This means that your alarm will trigger only if:

(1) the doors are forcibly or manually unlocked and opened without the key (2) power is disconnected (and then re-connected) from the battery (3) an attempt is made to start the vehicle without the key

Furthermore, if the alarm is triggered, the security system will disable the starter and continually attempt to lock the doors if they are unlocked.

This modification is simply a FREE upgrade. If you are in need of a more sophisticated alarm system, it is recommended that you look into purchasing the actual RS3200 Plus upgrade, or an aftermarket alarm system.

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To test the new modified alarm, perform the following: Roll down the driver side window.

Activate the alarm by

Press the power lock button in the door, then close the door, OR Close the door, then lock the doors from the outside with the key, OR Close the door, then press the LOCK button on the transmitter.

Wait 30 Seconds for the alarm to activate.

Reach in through the window to unlock and open the door. The alarm should trigger.

To deactivate:

Press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter, OR Unlock the door with the key, OR

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to ON.

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To go one step further, an aftermarket LED light may be added. (Or, the factory LED can be purchased separately; Toyota part number 08192-3T820)

The lower dash panel will have to be removed to access the proper wiring.

In the first picture above, you will see a wire harness that T's at the base of the steering column and folds back to the left. The loose end of that wire harness is taped up. Pull the end out where you can access the unused 4-pin connector. This connector is where the LED/glass sensor gets plugged in.

There are 4 wires, a black, a white, and 2 colored wires. The 2 colored wires are used for the LED. You can splice into these 2 wires to connect an LED. (The black and white wires are for the sensor)

8/26/07

User onelowrx7 suggested that the Toyota LED/Glass breakage sensor could be installed in the hazard light button location. Here are his notes on installing the sensor and relocating the hazzard lights button:

The information found in your DIY Alarm Upgrade worked out great for me! Except I wanted to take it the one step further as explained. I wanted the Toyota Factory L.E.D. / Glass Break Sensor installed to complete the alarm system. Here is how I did it:

I ordered the part listed above (Toyota part number 08192-3T820) and when it arrived I noticed that its OEM connectors were intact but the wiring was quite short (about 3 inches). I decided that since my particular model came with the Rear Differential Lock Switch and the Clutch Start Cancel Switch that the best location would be where the factory Hazard switch was located. I would have to relocate the Hazard switch to one of the blanks located at the bottom of the dash next to the additional 120v power outlets.

Note: if you do not have the Rear Diff Lock Switch or the Clutch Start Cancel switch, you could place the factory LED there. The stock wiring was long enough although the connectors were all Male/Male therefore, you would have to have splice your own no matter where you decide.

First, locate the wire that will control the LED / GB Sensor...

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Next, un-tape the wire so that it can be relocated to your desired location. Run the unwrapped wire up to the hazzard button's srcinal location.

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Let’s start with the LED harness since that’s the main goal here. First as the guide above stated, there are 4 wires. 2 that go the Glass Break Sensor (these are white and black). The other 2 are for the LED (the guide stated “colored”, mine were WHITE w/ BLACK stripe and RED, be careful when re-connecting these).

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Those factory harnesses both on the car side and on the switch side now need to be cut. They both are male connectors and won’t mate. I chose quick connects, but you can use butt connectors if you like.

Note: If you're simply placing this switch in a blank location near the steering wheel (where my diff lock switch or clutch cancel switch is), you're almost done!

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Now on to the Hazard switch. The wiring is only made to go to one location, but with some butt connectors, a striper, a crimper, and some extra wire, it can go wherever you like! I chose speaker wire because it was the right gauge and it actually worked out great. Cut the harness with a couple inches of lead, and then strip the factory wires and attach your extra lengths.

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You’ll need to thread the wiring down to the bottom of the console - this is pretty easy. I recommend only wiring one wire at a time; there are a total of 8 wires in the hazard switch harness. I went slowly and still made a mistake, I wired two colors backwards. The result was a hazard switch AND turn signals that didn’t work. After checking the fuses, I went back and looked over my wiring and found the culprit. I added some electrical tape spiraled around the wiring just to clean things up a bit. Here's the finished product:

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Rear Interior Disassembly (Double Cab)

By: Jeff

In order to perform this operation, you'll need: - A socket set with 10-14mm sockets

- Phillips screwdriver

- Another person - for rear seat removal - Door panel trim popper (optional)

This tutorial was written to illustrate the steps necessary to remove the interior parts from the rear section of a double cab Tacoma. They can be used in conjuction with other articles in the Interior category in this tech section for a full interior disassembly.

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phillips screws each. Once the screws are removed, carefully pop the panels loose from the body of the truck.

Next, you need to remove the rear seat. Make sure the area behind your rear seat is empty, including removing the factory jack and tools.

The rear seat is held in place by two 14mm bolts in the front and 4 14mm bolts behind the seat. In the front, you'll need to remove the trim panels to expose the bolts. In the rear, you'll need to lift the carpet access points to reveal the bolts.

Once all 6 bolts are out, get someone to help you remove the rear seat. It's not that heavy, it's just bulky and awkward to remove through the small rear doors.

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Next, you'll want to remove the rear cup holder, which is attached under there the rear seat was. It is attached with 4 10mm bolts.

Next, you'll want to remove the rear seat belts. On each side, there are three places where the seat belt is attached to the truck. The first two are attached to the floor near the rear corners of the truck. The final point is on the rear side panel. The third bolt is exposed by lifting the plastic cover on the rotating seat belt mount.

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Once the seat belts bolts are removed, carefully remove the rear interior side panel where the third seat belt mount was. It should be held in place by 6 or 7 clips.

You'll also want to remove the trim panel directly below the rear window.

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these are removed, you can remove the rear fabric panel. It should simply slide up and out.

Remove Rear Door Panels (Double Cab)

By: Jeff

In order to perform this operation, you'll need: - A thin flathead screwdriver

- Door panel trim popper (optional)

First, make sure the window is rolled all the way down. This is the door panel we are working with:

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Next, you'll want to remove the door handle. Remove the single phillips screw and push the assembly to the right to release it from the door. If you choose to remove the handle from the opening mechanism rod, this is a good time to do that as well.

Next, remove the top of the arm rest. The arm rest pops loose by pulling slightly towards you and up. It will most likely be very tight and a bit difficult to remove. Be careful to pull towards you as you pull up or you may break off one of the attachment tabs.

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Once the arm rest is removed, remove the two phillips screws that hold the door panel to the door.

Now, go around the edge of the door panel and pop the door panel loose. Once the door panel is free from the door, pull slightly up on the door panel to unhook it from the top of the door. Before you move the door panel away from the door, make sure you disconnect the power window wiring harness. It is located just about in the middle of the panel.

With the door panel removed, you have easy access to replace speakers, install dynomat (pictured), or repair window/door components.

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Removing Front Door Panels

Removing Front Door Panels (01-04)

(01-04)

By: ParkRat

In order to perfrom this operation, you'll need the following tools: - A thin flathead screwdriver

- Door panel trim popper (optional)

First, make sure the window is rolled down all the way. This is the door panel we are working with:

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Remove the black trim piece attached to the pillar. You can pry it off with a flat head screw driver. It pops right off.

Next, pop the screw hole covers off the armrest. Again use a thin flat head screw driver and be careful not to scratch the plastic. Remove the screws.

Next, pop the power window/door lock panel off with a flat head screw driver. Make sure you start with the upper part close to the power mirror switches (see orange arrow). Disconnect wires from the door locks and power window unit.

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Next, remove the phillips screw holding the door handle on. Once this is done push the door handle towards the door hinges and it will release from the door. Then you can pull on it and it will be loose.

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The door panel is held on by red plastic tabs that snap into the door itself. Using a flat head screwdriver (or door panel removal tool) pry up on the door panel around the edges. Be careful. They should pop out pretty easy.

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At this point you should be able to lift up on the door panel and it will release from the top edge. You may have to turn the panel a little to slide the door handle through the opening. Disconnect the cable from the tweeter and your door panel is now off!

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Disconnect tweeter harness

Naked door skin

Factory Alarm Piezo Buzzer Disable

By: Randy Hobart

Before I ever got my new Tacoma home from the dealership, there was already something I wanted to change. I'm sure some folks don't mind this, or perhaps don't even care, but I simply can't stand the beeeep that sounds when the factory alarm is armed and disarmed.

The official term for this component is the piezo buzzer. On some earlier models, there is a programming function that disables the piezo. However, on newer models (2001-2004) with the RS3200 system, the programming function is not applicable. I even went as far as to ask the dealership if there was a way to turn it off. Nope, you can't turn it off. That simply wasn't good

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enough for me, so I was compelled to figure it out on my own.

The piezo buzzer is located under the hood, between the battery and the driver side fender. You will most likely need to loosen the battery to get your hand in between. There is a little tweeter looking device connected to the wiring harness - it may or may not be wrapped with thin foam padding. Simply unplug the piezo connector to disable it. For added protection, I would advise that you use electrical tape to cover the exposed connectors.

Now you can enjoy your alarm in peace. This component is the same for both the keyless entry system and the fully functional alarm system for 2001-2004 Tacomas. Some models may differ - you can try the following instructions to see if your system accepts the programming before

disconnecting the piezo.

The aforementioned method most likely may not work for 95-00 models (and possibly 2001 models) with the RS3000 keyless/security system. Instead, try these programming instructions for your pre-01:

Insert the key into the ignition switch, and turn it to ON (not ACC).

Using 1 remote transmitter, press and hold both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for over 2 seconds until the status monitor's LED lights up.

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PIEZO OFF - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button once. (The Piezo chirps once and the lights flash once.)

PIEZO ON - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button twice. (The Piezo chirps twice and the lights flash twice.)

Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. (The Piezo chirps 3 times and the lights flash 3 times.)

Seat Installations I: Transplanting Seats Into Your Truck

By: Enola Gaia

The stock Toyota seats are common objects of complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there are often questions about installing alternative seats in Tacos. One option is to transplant better seats from another vehicle into your truck.

This file documents some information about the installation process involved in such transplants, based on experiences reported on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves - it is a summary set of info and pointers to info on installations and install-related data.

There have been claims of many more installations than are listed below. That's because this listing is limited to pointing you to substantial info on how those installations were accomplished.

Although this compilation was intended to concentrate on the 95.5 - 04 Tacomas, decent info / writeups on earlier pre-Tacos are included as well.

NOTE: For information about mounting new aftermarket seats into your Tacoma, see the related tech article Seat Installations II.

Option 1: Installing Stock Seats from Another Toyota Truck

Let's start with the most straightforward transplant you can try: Seats from a Tacoma / pickup of the same generation as yours should bolt into your Taco with no modification - provided they use the same mounting scheme as your stock seats.

The two mounting schemes used in trucks / Tacos

For Toyota trucks up through the 2004 Tacomas there are two types of mounts used for the front seats. One type is the mount set used for the single-piece bench seat in the Regular Cab models. The other is the mount set used for the 60/40 split bench seat and the buckets in all Tacoma models.

The specifics of these two mounting schemes seem to remain consistent within each of the Toyota truck generations (e.g., 1989 - 1995 pre-Tacos; 1995.5 - 2004 Tacos, etc.). However, they are not consistent across generations, even for the same type of seats.

For all generations, there are no more than 8 stock holes (or molded hole locations) in the cab (4 per side). In some cases (especially the single-piece bench seats) seats are factory installed using fewer than the available 8 holes. Any unused holes will be either (a) pre-drilled but plugged or (b) not drilled out. Unused holes will not have a nut on the underside (like the ones that get used).

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Generally speaking, you can swap 60/40's and Tacoma buckets easily, because they use the same mount layout. This is pretty much guaranteed to be a straightforward swap so long as the seats are from the same generation of truck / Taco.

However, the 60/40 brackets and the bucket brackets (and in some cases the seats themselves) aren't of identical height. This means you may have to do some modding / fabbing to match your srcinal seat height.

Swapping between Taco / truck single (one-piece) bench and bucket seats

The most common factory seat swap people ask about is replacement of a single-piece bench seat in a Regular Cab with factory buckets.

The single bench mount set is not sufficient for mounting either a 60/40 split bench or a pair of Tacoma buckets into your Tacoma / pickup. Depending on your truck's generation, the basic bench seat may be mounted using as few as 4 and a maximum of 6 bolts. Toyota truck buckets require 8 bolts (4 per seat).

You should never install seats using fewer bolts than the mounting scheme is designed for. If there is provision for 4 bolts per side, use all 4. Three bolts and wishful thinking may not be enough to keep your butt in place during an impact.

In the worst case, you may have to drill holes in your floorboard to accommodate the additional bolts. In the best case, you may be able to use an existing bolt hole with no more effort than removing a plug or drilling through the factory-molded location.

In our forum, Richie Rich has provided a good writeup on his bench-to-bucket swap in a '96 Regular Cab:

FWIW, I just got done putting buckets out of a 2000 extra cab into my 96 Tacoma.

Out of the 8 bolt holes needed, 6 of them were lined up and ready to go. I had to lift the carpet up to find the front inners but they were there. Just cut some small holes in the carpet for the bolts and you are good to go.

The outer rears lined up perfectly but the bolts from the bench seat were too short.

The inner rears were the only real work. You would think they would bolt to the holes left vacant by the seatbelt buckles from the bench seat but they don't. They actually bolt to the trans tunnel. Toyota at least stamped the location of the holes on the floorpan. All I had to do was punch the centers of the spots and drill em out.

Since there are no nuts welded to the underside of the floor at those locations I had to use nuts. Be sure to use large, thick washers on the underside of the floor, I had to get out the BFH to give the washers a nice curve to match the trans tunnel. Oh yeah, use lock washers too, so they don't work loose.

One more thing, out of the 6 bolts that hold the bench seat and seatbelts in, you can only reuse two of them - the fronts.

I had some extra front bolts in my magic bolt can, I reused the seatbelt anchor bolts as the inside rears. The only thing I had to get were 2 nuts for the inside rears and two longer bolts for the outer rears. It was about $6 for the hardware at the local Toyota dealer. I am sure I could have saved money by going to a hardware store but did not feel like trying a bunch of crap that wouldn't fit.

With the seats two notches from the rear, they can be reclined two notches backwards. Very comfy compared to my bench, and much more stylish.

Option 2: Installing Stock Seats from Other Vehicles

In general, any seats physically capable of fitting within your cab are candidates for transplants. Besides those for which substantial install info is listed below, I've found specific claims (and in some cases even photos) of transplants involving seats taken from: Acura NSX, Camaro Z28, Chevy S-10,

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Honda Accord, Honda Prelude, Nissan Sentra, Pontiac FireBird, Toyota MR2, and Volvo S80. Once you go outside the Toyota mini-truck family to get your transplant seats, your biggest hassles will be with the mounts / brackets / sliders. It is fair to say that the mounts beneath the seats will end up causing you more headaches than the seats themselves. In some cases, you may be able to graft the other seats onto your stock mounting brackets. In other cases, you may need to modify the other seats' mounts and use them.

Odds are you'll be doing some custom fabrication / surgery in transplanting seats from other vehicles. One reason is that such seats will probably have mounting hardware peculiar to their srcinal vehicle. This means you aren't likely to be able to fall back on simply buying a stock aftermarket bracket as you can when dealing with (e.g.) Sparco, Corbeau, or Recaro aftermarket seats. There are cases where this will work - all I'm saying is that you cannot assume it will always work.

The entries below offer info and pointers to info on transplants of other vehicles' seats into Toyota Tacomas / pickups. The entries are organized by brand of seats transplanted, and listed

alphabetically by (car) brand name.

Acura Integra Seats

http://www.wildyoats.com/cheap_tricks.htm

This is a very brief writeup about swapping buckets from a 1988 Acura Integra into a Toyota truck (not clear what year truck).

http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=36057

A YotaTech post containing a brief summary plus a photo of 1989 Acura Integra seats swapped into a 1990 Toyota XtraCab.

Honda Civic Seats

Here at CustomTacos, 3Point4Tacoma writes of a seat swap into his 1996 XtraCab:

The 2 front holes damn near matched. I had to take a hammer to the seat brackets and hammer them to the right angle. Then, I took a drill and widened the holes on the front brackets. For the back, I just had to drill 2 new holes and bolt them up since the civic tracks were a little shorter. I didn't do anything to plug the old holes up other than put the old bolts back in it's place.

Honda CRX Si Seats

In this thread, ToY SpD provides some experiences and photos from his install of CRX Si seats into his 1994 Regular Cab.

Mitsubishi Eclipse Seats

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I put some 96 eclipse seats in my truck. The back of the seat is a little lower, but its fine for now. Bolted 1 in front and 2 in back, w/ homemade brackets. (just flat pieces of metal and made the seats fit w/ some creativity).

Subaru Seats

COMMENT (YotaTech) from an 82 Toyota truck owner:

I put 87 subaru bucket seats in my 82. I found out that 79-83 bucket seat brackets bolt right up to the subaru seat no modifying mounting holes. Those seats are way more comfortable then toyota seats and a lot eaiser to find.

Toyota 4Runner Seats

Some (but not all) 4Runner seats in some generations will also bolt into your Taco with little or no major modification required. Typically, you can get 3 of the 4 bolts / holes to line up 'as is'.

4Runner seats are one of the most commonly-cited transplants cited - especially at offroad sites such as YotaTech and Tacoma Territory. However, there are almost no substantial write-ups on the transplant process. The most you'll find is illustrated by this comment from a 2004 Taco XtraCab owner at YotaTech: I got seats out of a 94 or 95 SR5 4-Runner. All but the front inside bolts bolt right up. They are great.

In October 2004, the following write-up appeared in a pair of postings (by a 'Greavous') to the Tacoma Territory forum:

I have seats from a 98 limited 4runner and they fit perfectly. They are power and leather and also match the oak interior like they came in it in 2001. All of the Tacoma seats will swap into any Tacoma up to 2004. I have no idea what 05 does. My 01 60/40 bench was removed and bolted straight into a 96 tacoma.

The only Mod that had to be done to the runner seats is the front outer bracket on a runner is kinda horizontal and the Taco's is turned down almost 90 degrees. I taped off the paint to prevent damaging/chipping and tapped it over into place with a BFH. Elongate the hole in the bracket with a 1/2 drill bit and bolt it up. I also installed a console which used factory screws at the front and I used a block riser and some screws into the floor pan to secure the rear.

Here's a pic but I get these things dicked up from time to time. Hope it works.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/[email protected]/detail?.dir=5282&.dnm=ee17.jpg ...

Well after I posted I recalled a couple things. First and most important is the seat belts. I found that the latches from the 98's didn't quite click like the srcinals and transplanted the srcinals onto the runner seats. When my bench went into the 96 the same issue arose. The latches just bolt up but if you have the 01 bench with a folding armrest you have to dig a little to get to them. No biggie but you need to know about it.

Second thing was wiring the seats. I used a battery charger and was able to power the seats up on my workbench and determine what needed to get the 12 v. and ground. The ground I ran to the closest seat mounting bolt. And the 12+ came from an add-a-fuse dooie I got at the Zone. It simply replaces one of the fuses and has 2 fuse ports (one for the srcinal and one for the new) and a pigtail hanging off it.

There won't be an armrest with the seats so a console is also needed in my book.

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Besides other pickup and SUV models in the Toyota family, the next-closest fits are Toyota buckets from Toyota cars. Known candidates for transplants include: MR2, Camry, Corolla, and Celica. In the best case, 3 of the 4 mounting holes will line up, and you'll need to improvise to make the fourth bolt connection.

I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Matrix seats into a Tacoma, but no evidence that anyone's actually done it.

Toyota Camry Seats

http://www.CustomTacos.com/forum/showthread.php?p=322738

MikeB's September 2004 report (with photos) talks about transplanting 2001 Camry buckets into his Regular Cab Tacoma. This was the first documented transplant of Camry buckets into a Taco.

Toyota Celica Seats

Celica seats are the Toyota family seats most commonly mentioned as candidates for transplanting into street Tacomas. These are also the transplants that have been best documented.

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/Celica%20seat%20install/

Two pages of photos about the process of getting Celica seats into a Tacoma. Good illustrations, but no instructions / commentary to go along with it. (from TTORA Northern California chapter)

http://ttora-ne.net/CT/Celica_Seat_Swap/index.html

Some photos and a few tips for getting Celica seats into a '99 Tacoma XtraCab. Not much in the way of detailed instructions or commentary. (from TTORA New England chapter)

http://www.CustomTacos.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=116763

VRacer111 (CustomTacos) provides photos and comments about his installation of 2000 Celica GT seats into his 1998 Tacoma XtraCab. As he summarized the process in a later thread:

For the celica seats you take the floor brackets from the tacoma 60/40 split bench or bucket seats and put them on the Celica rails. This involves cutting, grinding, adding spacer blocks to the outside drivers side rail, and welding - but it is so worth the effort to get rid of the horrible stock seating.

http://www.CustomTacos.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=177148

This CustomTacos thread contains good info contributed by multiple people who swapped Celica seats into their Tacos.

http://www.CustomTacos.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=226149 RevHard6's discussion of what it took to get Celica buckets into his 2000 XtraCab Taco. This includes discussion about how to account for the height difference between the Taco's 60/40 and bucket brackets.

http://www.CustomTacos.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=248212 RustStang78's photos and factoids about his installation of '03 Celica seats in his 1996

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Regular Cab, using Sparco brackets.

Toyota Corolla Seats

Corolla seats tend to be wider (and hence more accommodating to the larger driver) than Celica seats. There are multiple claims about, and isolated photos of, Corolla seat installs to be found in various Toyota truck forums. However, I could locate no write-ups on the install procedure.

Toyota SUV Seats (In General)

I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping RAV4 and Sequoia seats into a Tacoma, but no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.

Toyota Tundra Seats

I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Tundra seats into a Tacoma, but no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.

Volvo Seats

http://ttora-ne.new/newsite/new_england_ttora_volvo_seat_swa.htm

This is a write-up on putting 2000 Volvo S40 buckets into a 2002 Tacoma Double Cab. It includes a good set of install photos, but not much in the way of instructions. (from TTORA New England chapter)

Volvo seats are often mentioned as candidates for transplants. This one NE TTORA write-up is the only one I can find explaining how anyone's actually done it.

Seat Installations II: Installing Aftermarket Seats

Seat Installations II: New Aftermarket Seats By: Enola Gaia

In recent years, Toyota has consistently been awarded high marks by J D Power and Associates for their seating. These awards have been based more on rated quality of the seats (as objects) than these seats' quality at cradling the riders. In fact, the stock Toyota seats are common objects of complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there are often questions about installing alternative seats in Tacos.

This file documents some information about aftermarket seat installation options and issues, based on experiences and products documented on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves - it is a summary set of pointers to info on installations and install-related data.

NOTE: For information about mounting seats from other vehicles into your Tacoma, see the related tech article Seat Installations I.

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If you want to install new aftermarket seats, you'll face more problems with the mounts / brackets / sliders and the installation procedure than with the seat selection itself. Some aftermarket seat manufacturers (e.g., Sparco, Recaro) offer mounting brackets for installing their products in a variety of vehicle models. However, Toyota Tacomas are not one of the more commonly-offered models. This means that installing aftermarket seats can involve as much improvisation as transplanting seats from other vehicles.

A lot of confusion relates to exactly what mounting hardware is necessary. Here are some basic facts you need to know...

What stock mounting hardware is used in Tacomas?

Stock Toyota truck seat mounts typically are made up of two individual pieces which jointly serve as both (a) the base connecting the seat assembly to the floor and (b) the adjustable sliding tracks that permit the seats to be moved forward and backward. These pieces are usually separate (left and right for a given seat), and they may not be interconnected except by the structure of the seat itself.

How big a deal are the brackets and sliders?

Selecting and obtaining the seats is the easy part... Getting them mounted into your truck is the part that'll have you tearing your hair out. There are countless postings in car and truck forums illustrating how owners screwed themselves by not giving proper consideration to installation matters when acquiring cool new seats.

Another factor is cost. To completely replace your Toyota factory mounting hardware will require a base and sliders. Depending on the manufacturer and vendor, this can run you anywhere from around $80 to $200 per seat. For lower- and mid-range seats, the cost of installation hardware can become a sizeable portion of the overall price. Do your homework up front, and you won't get blindsided...

Isn't there just one general kind of mounting arrangement? No, there's not.

There are 2 different ways in which most aftermarket street seats are designed to be attached to their mounts. The more common type for street-style seats is a bottom mount arrangement. This means that the seat's underside is designed to attach to a bracket or slider below. The other type is a side mount arrangement, in which the seat is supposed to attach to mounting brackets on either side of the seat frame. Side mounts are mainly used for racing-style seats with a rigid shell.

In general, if you want the seats to slide forward and backward, you will want a bottom mount arrangement. Either bottom mounts or side mounts can be used if you want a static seat position (no sliding). Side mounts are pretty much limited to static seat positioning.

You will need to be clear about the mounting arrangement that your new seats are designed for. Usually, aftermarket seats are designed for either side or bottom mounting. There are rare examples (of racing-style seats or shells) where you can use either a side or bottom mount.

These are not the only mounting arrangements that you may encounter. For serious off-road purposes, there are some seats which are designed to be mounted using a suspension pedestal or even a rigid platform attached to the cab wall or a roll cage.

What mounting hardware is offered in the aftermarket?

The mounting hardware offered by aftermarket suppliers can vary. In most cases, however, there will be two distinct pieces or units available to replace the functionality of the stock Toyota mounts:

Base / Bracket

When someone refers to a 'base', 'bracket', or 'mounting bracket', they usually mean a rigid metal frame that bolts to the vehicle floor and provides a foundation onto which the seat is itself fastened. In other words, the 'bracket' is usually just the fixed 'stand' onto which a seat can be attached. By itself, a 'bracket' doesn't necessarily give you the ability to slide the seat backward

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and forward. The most common brackets are rectangular metal frames with bolt holes configured to match the vehicle's interior mounting scheme.

NOTE:Tacoma aftermarket brackets are of the 'tabbed' variety. This means that the bolt holes are in the ends of 'tabs' extending from the main part of the bracket assembly. In most cases, aftermarket brackets are single pieces that replace the separate base elements that make up the stock Tacoma seat mounts.

Slider

When someone refers to a 'slider', they usually mean a separate frame or structure that sits between the seat base and the seat. The slider has tracks permitting movement - allowing the seat to go backward and forward relative to the base. By itself, a 'slider' doesn't give you the ability to attach the seat to the floor. By the same token, the slider has to fit onto the base and the seat.

You should be careful to figure out whether you want / need 'brackets', 'sliders', or both. In some cases, sliders aren't an option, because the manufacturer has designed its seats for fixed positioning. In some cases, sliders and brackets are combined and sold as single retail items. In some cases, retailers only list brackets and never mention sliders (or vice versa). Even the manufacturers themselves contribute to the confusion. Some of their websites list both brackets and sliders together, while others hide one or the other (almost always the sliders) under a separate 'Accessories' category.

Can't I just get by with 'universal' hardware?

There's no such thing as a single truly 'universal' mount! There are multiple kinds of brackets (e.g., 'flat' versus 'tabbed'), and no single bracket can be expected to work for all vehicles. The Toyota Tacoma floor is uniquely contoured, and 'universal brackets' are not likely to work without significant modification or fabbing. 'Universal' sliders will have to fit both the seat and the mounting bracket, so they are another component that may need to be modified to get the install done. Finally, different manufacturers' seats vary in their bottom structure and mounting points. This means that whatever you're fastening to them (whether bracket or slider) may not always fit.

There may be a slider or a bracket that is 'universal' for a specific set of seats from a specific manufacturer (or a group of manufacturers all of whose seats are closely similar), but nothing that's 'universal' for all vehicles. Separate sliders can be 'universal' only within the limits of particular seats and / or brackets. Furthermore, there's nothing that's 'universal' to all Toyota trucks. Cab bolt configurations are different for single bench seats versus the 60/40 split benches / buckets, and pre-Tacos are different from Tacos.

In other words, the only thing guaranteed to be 'universal' is the hassle involved in mixing 'n' matching bases, sliders, and so forth to get your particular seats in your specific truck.

Who can I turn to?

Naturally, the only way to assure 'universal installations' is to fab the mounts yourself. Unless you are comfortable with DIY surgery, you may want to check with a specialty shop to see if they can fabricate something to save you time and hassle. Some alternatives are:

Wedge Engineering in Long Beach CA (http://wedgeengineering.net) specializes in fabricating seat brackets.

Speedware Motorsports in Redmond WA (http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com) does custom installations, and they offer custom bracket fabrication services.

Your friendly local metal fabrication shop can probably make or modify brackets to serve your needs.

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The remainder of this tech article offers pointers to info on installing new aftermarket seats. There are many manufacturers and brand names of aftermarket seats, ranging from mass market knock-offs to high-end ergonomic and professional racing models. The listings will be limited to

information on known installations and pointers to install-related resources offered by the best-known manufacturers. The entries are listed in alphabetical order by manufacturer name.

Beard Seats

Beard (a subsidiary of Redart) makes suspension seats that are popular with hardcore off-roaders. As such, their seats are more or less a distinct species from the usual racing and / or sports seats on the market.

Beard has recently introduced a line of Toyota mounting kits as follows: Toyota '84-'88 Std Cab Kit

Toyota '89-'95 Std Cab Kit

Toyota '95-'02 Tacoma Std. & Crew cab

Because the Beard seats are designed for rough off-road duty, they are not as adjustable as other seats. On the other hand, their bucket designs are roomier than the racing-style buckets offered by others. Because these are suspension seats, you need to know that they tend to mount 'taller' than sport or racing seats (i.e., you'll probably be sitting higher than in your stock seats). Though they srcinally designed for fixed installation, Beard now offers sliders for their seats.

NOTE: These suspension seats' mounting arrangements are quite distinct from the usual mounts. You may need to do some advance research to make sure what's involved.

Beard Install (Custom-Built)

http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0211_priz/

This is a Four Wheeler Magazine writeup on the installation of custom Beard buckets into their 40th Anniversary Tacoma Double Cab. It provides some photos and some brief comments.

Beard install (Super-Style Racing Model) http://www.jordansrealm.com/121212beard.htm

This is a pretty good overview (with photos) of what's necessary to install the Beard Super Styles in a Tacoma XtraCab. It was compiled by the Taco's owner.

Corbeau Seats

Corbeau makes a series of street and racing bucket seats. Corbeau is one of the few manufacturers to offer factory mounting hardware for installing them in Toyota trucks.

The Corbeau Master Bracket Guide lists the following brackets for Toyota pickups:

PICKUP 76-78 Driver = D362T / Passenger = D363T PICKUP 79-83 Driver = C22028 / Passenger = C22028 PICKUP 84-88 Driver = C22023L / Passenger = C22023R PICKUP 89-95 (BENCH) Driver = D952T / Passenger = D953T PICKUP 89-95 (BUCKET) Driver = C22046L /

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