CBLM_Installing Framing Works

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COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Sector: CONSTRUCTION

Qualification Title: CARPENTRY NC II

Unit of Competency: INSTALL FRAMING WORKS Module Title: INSTALLING FRAMING WORKS

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HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING

MATERIAL

Welcome to the module in installing framing works. This module contains training materials and activities for you to complete.

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete each learning outcome of the module. In each learning outcome are Information Sheets, Self-Checks, Operation Sheets and Job Sheets. Follow these activities on your own. If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask your facilitator for assistance.

The goal of this course is the development of practical skills. To gain these skills, you must learn basic concepts and terminology. For the most part, you'll get this information from the Information Sheets and multimedia materials

This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency, in "Installing Framing Works".

This will be the source of information for you to acquire knowledge and skills in this particular competency independently and at your own pace, with minimum supervision or help from your instructor.

Remember to:

Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section. Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are included to supplement the materials provided in this module.

Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she is there to support you and show you the correct way to do things.

You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice on the job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way you will improve both your speed and memory and also your confidence.

Use the Self-checks, Operation Sheets or Job Sheets at the end of each section to test your own progress.

When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your Trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.

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UNIT OF COMPETENCY : INSTALL FRAMING WORKS

MODULE TITLE : INSTALLING FRAMING WORKS

MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the required competencies in preparing appropriate materials, tools and equipment for installing framing works, out/erecting and assembling post and girts, laying-out/installing floor joists , laying-laying-out/installing wall studs, laying-out/fabricating/installing roof frames, laying-out/installing ceiling joist.

NOMINAL DURATION : 80 hrs.

CERTIFICATE LEVEL : NATIONAL CERTIFICATE LEVEL II

PREREQUISITE :

SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student must be able to:

LO 1. Prepare appropriate materials, tools and equipment for installing framing works

LO 2. Lay-out/erect and assemble post and girts LO 3. Lay-out/install floor joists

LO 4. Lay-out/install wall studs

LO 5. Lay-out/fabricate/install roof frames LO 6. Lay-out/install ceiling joist

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ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

• Plans and details are correctly interpreted according to job requirements

• Appropriate materials, tools and equipment are selected and prepared consistent with job requirements

• Materials are re-checked and properly staged according to job requirements • Defective materials are reported to immediate supervisor following standard

operating procedures

• Posts and girts are laid-out, marked and cut according to working drawings and specifications with tolerance of ± 3 mm on all measurements, plumbness, and levelness

• Posts are erected vertically based on plans and specifications with tolerance of + 3 mm on all measurements

• Girts and girders are attached to the posts horizontally according to plans and specifications

• Unexpected situations are responded to in line with work place requirement • Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations

• Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements

• Floor joists are set out, cut and fixed, and laterally supported at + 3 mm on all measurements and levelness in accordance with working drawings and specifications

• Joists are trimmed for openings and fixed with fastenings according to the requirements of the working drawings and specifications

• Wall studs are identified, measured and cut based on working drawings and specifications with tolerance of + 3 mm maximum on all measurements

• Horizontal studs are laid–out and installed based on working drawings and specifications with tolerance of + 3 mm maximum on all measurements

• Types of roof and other components are fabricated, laid-out and installed according to working drawings and specifications with tolerance of + 3 mm on all measurements, plumbness, levelness and squareness

• Roof components are installed according to working drawings and specifications • Ceiling joists are identified, measured, and cut according to working drawings

and specifications with tolerance of + 3 mm on all measurements, levelness and squareness

• Ceiling joists are laid-out and installed according to working drawings and specifications with tolerance of + 3 mm on all measurements, levelness and squareness

• Unexpected situations are responded to in line with work place requirement • Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations

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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 1 Prepare appropriate materials, tools and equipment for installing framing works

CONTENTS:

• Characteristics of common Philippine Lumber • Material Specifications

• Types and Parts of a Frame Constructions

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Plans and details are correctly interpreted according to job requirements 2. Appropriate materials, tools and equipment are selected and prepared

consistent with job requirements

3. Materials are re-checked and properly staged according to job requirements 4. Defective materials are reported to immediate supervisor following standard

operating procedures

5. Unexpected situations are responded to in line with work place requirement 6. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations

7. Appropriate PPE is selected according to job requirements

CONDITIONS:

You must be provided with the following: 1. WORKPLACE LOCATION

2. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Claw Hammer • Pencil/Marking pen • Pull-Push Rule • Nylon String • Steel Square • Try-square • Hand Saw • Chalk Line • Personal Protective Equipment

• Portable Circular Saw • Plan and working drawings • Lumber

• Nails • Plywood

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Learning Experience

PREPARE APPROPRIATE MATERIALS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR INSTALLING FRAMING WORKS

Learning Activities Special Instructions

Read Information Sheet No. 5.1-1 on

Characteristics of Common Philippine Lumber

Answer Self-Check No. 5.1-1 Compare your answer to the answer

key

Read Information Sheet No.5.1-2 on

Material Specifications

key

Types and Parts of a Frame Construction

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.1-1

CHARACTERISTICS OF COMMON PHILIPPINE LUMBER

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the TYPES and

CHARACTERISTICS of COMMON PHILIPPINE LUMBER 1. Banuyo – similar to narra, furniture

2. Dao – streaked decorative lumber

3. Dungon – heavy structural, wine red (twisted) 4. Guijo – basic structural, heavy framing

5. Ipil – heavy structural (post and girder)

6. Kalantas – lightweight decorative lumber (absorbs moisture) 7. Kamagong – from mabolo, darkest tone lumber

8. Lanite – light color, light framing

9. Manggachapui – yellow, furniture lumber

10. Maranggo – resonant wood (used on musical soundboard) 11. Molave (Mulawin) – heavy structure (post and girder) 12. Narra – decorative

13. Supa – dark red structural lumber 14. Tindalo – structural general frame

15. Yakal – basic, heavy structural (post, girder, stringer) 16. Apitong – general framing (porous) easily twisted 17. Katmon – light framing

18. Mayapis – light framing

19. Palosapis – furniture, sashes, pale (darken with age) 20. Pine wood – ornamental, lightweight

21. Red lauan – light framing 22. Santol – sculptural

23. White lauan – light framing 24. Tanguile – basic framing

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SELF- CHECK NO. 5.1-1

Check your mastery in the different characteristics of common Philippine lumber by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION: Identify the characteristic of the Philippine lumber listed below.

Write you answer on the corresponding column. DUNGON GUIJO IPIL KATMON LANITE MAYAPIS MOLAVE RED LAUAN TANGUILE YAKAL

LIGHT FRAMING BASIC FRAMING HEAVY STRUCTURAL

1. __________________ 2. __________________ 3. __________________ 4. __________________ 1. __________________ 2. __________________ 3. __________________ 1. __________________ 2. __________________ 3. __________________

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ANSWER KEY 5.1-1

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

LIGHT FRAMING BASIC FRAMING HEAVY STRUCTURAL

1. LANITE 2. KATMON 3. MAYAPAS 4. RED LAUAN 1. GUIJO 2. YAKAL 3. TANGUILE 1. DUNGON 2. IPIL 3. MOLAVE

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.1-2

MATERIALS SPECIFICATIONS

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the TYPES,

STANDARD SIZES, and USES of LUMBER for CONSTRUCTION CARPENTRY. The primary components used in frame construction are lumber and hardware. This section includes information on the types and sizes of lumber as well as a description of various metal fasteners.

A. Lumber

Lumber varies greatly in structural characteristics. A carpenter must learn about lumber so that he can choose the most suitable material for each job.

1. Grades

Lumber, as it comes from the sawmill, is divided into three main classes: yard

lumber, structural material and factory and shop lumber. It is classified on the

basis of quality. The carpenter must choose a quality that is suitable for the intended purpose. At the same time, he must exercise economy by not choosing a better (and therefore more expensive) grade than is required.

Lumber is subdivided into classifications of select lumber and common lumber.

• Select Lumber - Select lumber is of good appearance and finishing. It is

identified by the following grade names for comparison of quality: o Grade A is suitable for natural finishes and is practically clear.

o Grade B is suitable for natural finishes, is of high quality, and is generally clear.

o Grade C is suitable for high-quality paint finishes.

o Grade D is suitable for paint finishes between high-finishing grades and common grades and has somewhat the nature of both.

• Common Lumber - Common lumber is suitable for general construction and

utility purposes. It is identified by the following grade names for comparison of quality:

o No. 1 common is suitable for use without waste, it is sound and tight knotted, and it may be considered watertight lumber.

o No. 2 common is less restricted in quality than No. 1, but of the same general quality. It is used for framing, sheathing, and other structural forms where the stress or strain is not too great.

o No. 3 common permits some waste, and it is lower in quality than No. 2. It is used for such rough work as footing, guardrails, and rough flooring.

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o No. 4 common permits waste, is of low quality, and may have coarse features such as decay and holes. It is used for sheathing, subfloors, and roof boards in the cheaper types of construction, but its most important industrial outlet is for boxes and crates.

o No. 5 common is not produced in some kinds of lumber. It is used for boxes, crates, and dunnage, for which the quality requirement is very low.

CODE FOR SURFACED LUMBER

Code Meaning

S1E SURFACED 1 EDGE

S2E SURFACED 2 EDGES

S1S SURFACED 1 SIDE

S2S SURFACED 2 SIDES

S1S1E SURFACED 1 SIDE AND EDGE

S2SIE SURFACED 2 SIDES AND 1 EDGE

S1S2E SURFACED 1 SIDE AND 2 EDGES

S4S SURFACED 4 SIDES

2. Uses of Lumber

a. Frames. Building frames are the wood forms constructed to support the

finished members of a structure. These include posts, girders (beams), scabs, joists, subfloors, sole plates, girts, knee braces, top plates, and rafters. No. 2 common lumber is used for framing. Heavy frame components, such as beams and girders, are made by combining several pieces of framing material.

b. Walls. The exterior wall of a frame structure usually has three layers:

sheathing, building paper, and siding. Sheathing and siding lumber are normally grade No. 2 common softwood, which is with solid knots, no voids. Siding is either vertically or horizontally applied. Theater construction may limit available material to lap siding for both horizontal and vertical surfaces. For local procurement, there are several types of drop and bevel siding, which is applied horizontally.

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the rough or nominal dimension, but the actual dressed size is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches. Lumber is sawn in standard sizes used for light framing.

• Thickness: 1, 2, and 4 inches. • Width: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches. • Length: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, and 20 feet.

The actual dimensions of dressed lumber are less than the sewn dimensions because of drying and planing (or finishing). For the relative difference between sewn (standard or nominal) dimensions and actual sizes of construction lumber, see Table 2-1.

Table 1. Nominal and dressed sizes of lumber

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SELF- CHECK NO. 5.1-2

Check your mastery in the different material specifications by completing the tasks below.

MULTIPLE CHOICE: Read the statement carefully. Choose the letter of the correct

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ANSWER KEY 5.1-2

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.1-3

TYPES AND PARTS OF FRAME CONSTRUCTION

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the Different

TYPES and PARTS A OF FRAME CONSTRUCTION PLATFORM FRAME

In platform-frame construction, first floor joists are completely covered with sub-flooring to form a platform upon which exterior walls and interior partitions are erected. This is the type of construction most generally used in home building. Platform construction is easy to erect. It provides a work surface at each floor level and is readily adapted to various methods of prefabrication. In platform systems it is common practice to assemble wall framing on the floor and tilt the entire unit into place.

BALLOON FRAME

In balloon-frame construction, exterior wall studs continue through the first and second stories. First floor joists and exterior wall studs both bear on the anchored sill. Second-floor joists bear on a minimum 1x4-inch

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COMBINATION FRAME

A modification of the old braced frame which was of heavy timbers with every joint mortised and tenoned. The modification consists of lighter timbers and less mortising and pinning to save material and labor.

Parts of a Framed House

1. Bridging is a set of wood fitted in pairs from the lower side of one floor joist to

the upper side of adjacent joist and crossed to distribute the load. Sometimes pieces of solid stocks of equal with to the joist are used.

2. Ceiling is the finish covering of the joist of a roof system.

3. Fascia is a wood member used on the outer face of a box cornice where it is

nailed to the end of the rafters.

4. Girder is the beam that supports the roofing.

5. Joist is one of parallel framing members used to support floor and ceiling

loads. It is supported by beams, girders, or bearing wall.

6. Post/column is a vertical structure support. It may be circular or rectangular

in shape.

7. Purlin is a horizontal lumber used to support rafters between the plate and

the ridge board.

8. Rafteris one of a series of structural members of a roof designed to support

roof and loads.

9. Roof ridge is the horizontal line at the junction of the top edge of two roofs

surfaces where an external angle greater than 180 degrees is formed.

10. Roofing is a material applied to the roofs as covering to make the internal part of a building waterproof.

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11. Stud refers to one of a series of structural wood lying vertically along the walls and partitions.

12. Truss is a structural unit assembled in the form of a triangle. It provides a rigid support over wide spans with minimum amount of material.

13. Wall is a vertical plane structure found inside or outside a building. It is made of lumber, board, concrete or hollow blocks.

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SELF- CHECK NO. 5.1-3

Check your mastery in the different parts of a framed by completing the taskshouse below.

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ANSWER KEY 5.1-3

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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 2 Lay-out/erect and assemble post and girts

CONTENTS:

• Post

• Girts and Girders

• Load Conditions and Structural System Response

1. Posts and girts are laid-out, marked and cut according to working drawings and specifications with tolerance of ± 3mm on all measurements, plumbness, and levelness

2. Posts are erected vertically based on plans and specifications with tolerance of + 3mm on all measurements

3. Girts and girders are attached to the posts horizontally according to plans and specifications

6. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements

CONDITIONS:

2. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Claw Hammer • Pencil/Marking pen • Pull-Push Rule • Nylon String • Steel Square • Try-square • Hand Saw • Chalk Line 3. TRAINING MATERIALS Leaning Packages Bond paper Ball pens • Personal Protective Equipment

• Portable Circular Saw • Plan and working drawings • Lumber • Nails • Plywood Manuals Related References ASSESSMENT METHOD Portfolio

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Learning Experience

LAY-OUT/ERECT AND ASSEMBLE POST AND GIRTS

Post

key

Perform Operation Sheet No. 5.2-1 on

Erecting Post

Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Checklist Present your work to your trainer for evaluation

Keep a copy of your work for the next activities

Girts and Girders

Answer Self-Check No. 5.2-2 Compare your answer to the answer _key Read Information Sheet No. 5.2-3 on

Load Conditions and Structural system Response

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.2-1

POSTS

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the TYPES OF

WOOD POST and METHODS OF PLUMBING POST.

Wood posts may be solid, built-up, or spaced. In selecting a wood post, the following should be considered: lumber species, structural grade, modulus of elasticity, and allowable compressive, bending and shear stress value permitted for the intended use. In addition, attention must be paid to the precise loading conditions and the types of connections used.

Wood posts are loaded axially in compression. Failure can result in crushing of wood fibers if the maximum unit stress exceeds the allowable unit stress in compression parallel to the grain. The load capacity of the post is also determined by its slenderness ratio. As the slenderness ratio of a post increases, a post can fail from buckling.

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B. Methods of Plumbing Posts

After the corner post, T-post, and intermediate wall studs have been nailed to the plates or girts, the walls must be plumbed and straightened so that the permanent braces and rafters may be installed. This is done by using a level or plumb bob and a chalkline.

Plumbing Posts

There are two methods for plumbing posts. Method 1: To plumb a corner with a plumb bob

1. To plumb a corner with a plumb bob, first attach to the bob a string long enough to extend to or below the bottom of the post.

2. Lay a rule on top of the post so that 2 inches of the rule extends over the post on the side to be plumbed.

3. Then hang the bob-line over the rule so that the line is 2 inches from the post and extends to the bottom of it.

4. With another rule, measure the distance from the post to the center of the line at the bottom of the post; if it does not measure 2 inches, the post is not plumb. 5. Move the post

inward or outward until distance from the post to the center of the line is exactly 2 inches. Then nail the temporarily brace in place.

6. Repeat this procedure to the other face of the post. The post is then plum. This process is carried out to the

remaining post of the building.

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Method 2: An alternate method of plumbing a post

1. Attach the string of the plumb bob securely at the top of the post to be plumbed, making sure that the string is long enough to allow the plumb bob to hung near the bottom of the post.

2. Use two blocks of wood identical in thickness as gage blocks.

3. Tack one block near the top of the post between the plumb bob string and the post (gage block No. 1).

4. Inserting the second block between the plumb bob string and the bottom of the post (gage block No. 2) .

5. If the entire face of the second block makes contact with the string, the post is plumb.

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SELF- CHECK NO. 5.2-1

Check your mastery in the erecting and plumbing the posts by completing the tasks below.

Arrange in order the steps of plumbing a corner post by writing the number

on the space provided.

_____________ Lay a rule on top of the post so that 2 inches of the rule extends over the post on the side to be plumbed.

_____________ To plumb a corner with a plumb bob, first attach to the bob a string long enough to extend to or below the bottom of the post. _____________ Move the post inward or outward until distance from the post to

the center of the line is exactly 2 inches. Then nail the temporarily brace in place.

_____________ Then hang the bob-line over the rule so that the line is 2 inches from the post and extends to the bottom of it.

_____________ With another rule, measure the distance from the post to the center of the line at the bottom of the post; if it does not measure 2 inches, the post is not plumb.

_____________ Repeat this procedure to the other face of the post. The post is then plum. This process is carried out to the remaining post of the building.

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ANSWER KEY 5.2-1

2 Lay a rule on top of the post so that 2 inches of the rule extends over the post on the side to be plumbed.

1 To plumb a corner with a plumb bob, first attach to the bob a string long enough to extend to or below the bottom of the post.

5 Move the post inward or outward until distance from the post to the center of the line is exactly 2 inches. Then nail the temporarily brace in place.

3 Then hang the bob-line over the rule so that the line is 2 inches from the post and extends to the bottom of it.

4 With another rule, measure the distance from the post to the center of the line at the bottom of the post; if it does not measure 2 inches, the post is not plumb.

6 Repeat this procedure to the other face of the post. The post is then plum. This process is carried out to the remaining post of the building.

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OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.2-1

Title: _{Erect Post}

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to erect post

Supplies and Materials:

Lumber, fasteners Tools and Equipment: • circular saw

• hand saw • hammer • wrecking bar • folding rule • try square • Plumb bob • Spirit level Steps/Procedure:

Step 1. Prepare all the materials needed including the

braces that will be used in supporting the post.

Step 2. Temporarily place the post on the concrete

foundation. Then plumb the post. Follow the proper plumbing techniques in plumbing a post.

Step 3. Mark the position of the hole of the metal strap

to the post where the bolt will be placed.

Step 4. Make a bore on the post. The diameter of the bore should fit the bolts to

be used.

Step 5. Replace the post on the concrete foundation.

Test the plumbness of the post on its side and at its adjacent side.

Step 6. Place temporary braces on the post.

Step 7. Fasten the post with bolts and nuts securely on

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.2-1

Name of Trainee:______________________________ Date: __________________

CRITERIA YES NO

1. Did I laid-out, marked and cut the post according to the working drawing?

2. Are the required measurements on the materials (wood post) in correct based from the plan?

3. Is the post erected vertically with tolerance of ± 3 mm?

4. Did I use appropriate personal protective equipment in erecting the post?

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.2-2

GIRTS AND GIRDERS

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the PARTS OF A

FRAMED HOUSE.

Beams and girders are of solid timber or built-up construction in which

multiple pieces of nominal 2-inch thick lumber are nailed together with the wide faces vertical. Such pieces are nailed with two rows of 20d nails-one row near the top edge and the other near the bottom edge. Nails in each row are spaced 32 inches apart. End joints of the nailed lumber should occur over the supporting column or pier. End joints in adjacent pieces should be at least 16 inches apart. Glued-laminated

members are also used. Beams and girders that are not continuous are tied together across

supports. Bearing of at least 4 inches is

required at supports. The decision to use one girder over another is a function of cost, availability, span and loading conditions, clearance or head-room requirements, and ease of construction. Girders in residential construction are usually one of the

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Girders carry a large part of the building weight. They must be rigid and properly supported at the foundation walls and on the columns. They must be installed properly to support joists. The ends of wood girders should bear at least 4 inches on posts.

SIZE REQUIREMENTS

Carpenters should understand the effect of length, width, and depth on the strength of wood girders before attempting to determine their size.

Principles that govern the size of a girder are the: • Distance between girder posts

• Girder load area

• Total floor load on the girder per square foot • Load on the girder per linear foot

• Total load on the girder • Material to be used

• Wood moisture content and types of wood used, since some woods are stronger than others

Built-up girder details

A girder should be just large enough to support an ordinary load. Any size larger than that wastes material. For greater carrying capacity, it is better to increase a girder's depth (within limits) than its

width. When the depth of a girder is doubled (the width of lumber, such as 2 x 8 or 2 x 6), the safe load increases four times. For example, a girder 3 inches wide and 12 inches deep will carry four times as much weight as a girder 3 inches wide and 6 inches deep.

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SELF- CHECK NO. 5.2-2

Check your mastery in the girts and girders by completing the tasks below.

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ANSWER KEY 5.2-2

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.2-3

LOAD CONDITIONS AND STRUCTURAL SYSTEM RESPONSE

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the TYPES OF

BUILDING LOADS.

Building loads can be divided into two types based on the orientation of the

structural actions or forces that they induce:

Vertical Loads Horizontal (Lateral) Loads

• Dead (gravity) • Live (gravity) • Snow (gravity) • Wind (uplift on roof)

• Seismic and wind (overturning) • Seismic (vertical ground motion)

• Wind

• Seismic (horizontal ground motion) • Flood (static and dynamic hydraulic

forces)

• Soil (active lateral pressure)

Gravity loads act in the same direction as gravity (i.e., downward or vertically) and include dead, live, and snow loads. They are generally static in nature and usually considered a uniformly distributed or concentrated load.

A buildings structure weight is called the dead load. The dead load per square foot of floor area is carried directly or indirectly to the girder by bearing partitions.

The weight of furniture, persons, and other movable loads, not actually a part of the building but still carried by the girder, is called the live load.

Snow on the roof is considered part of the live load.

Wind uplift forces are generated by negative (suction) pressures acting in an

outward direction from the surface of the roof in response to the aerodynamics of wind flowing over and around the building.

Vertical forces are also created by overturning reactions due to wind and seismic lateral loads acting on the overall building and its lateral force resisting systems. Earthquakes also produce vertical ground motions or accelerations

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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3

Lay-out/install floor joists CONTENTS:

• Floor Joist

• Standard Size of Floor Opening

1. Floor joists are set out, cut and fixed, and laterally supported at + 3mm on all measurements and levelness in accordance with working drawings and specifications

2. Joists are trimmed for openings and fixed with fastenings according to the requirements of the working drawings and specifications

5. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements

CONDITIONS:

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Learning Experience

LAY-OUT/INSTALL FLOOR JOISTS

Floor Joist

key

Standard Size of Floor Opening

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.3-1

FLOOR JOISTS

FLOOR SYSTEM and STEPS IN LAYING OUT A PLATFORM FLOOR ASSEMBLY.

The wood floor framing system consists of the common floor joists, cross bridging, solid bridging, and others.

1. Floor Joist - One of a series of parallel beams of timber, reinforced concrete, or steel used to support floor and ceiling loads, and supported in turn by larger beams, girders or bearing walls; the widest dimension is vertically oriented. 2. Common Joist, Bridging Joist - A joist on which floor boards are laid;

neither supports a joist nor is it supported by another joist.

3. Binding Joist, binder - A beam which supports the common joists of a wood floor above and the ceiling joists below; commonly joins two vertical posts. 4. Girder - A large or principal beam of steel, reinforced concrete, or timber;

used to support concentrated loads at isolated points along its length. 5. Bridging - A brace, or a system of braces, placed between joists to stiffen

them, to hold them in place, and to distribute the load.

6. Cross bridging, Diagonal bridging, Herringbone Strutting – Diagonal bracing, in pairs, between adjacent floor joists to prevent the joists from twisting.

7. Block bridging, Solid bridging, Solid Strutting - Short members (boards) which are fixed vertically between floor joists to stiffen the joists.

8. Bridging Floor - A floor supported by common joists, without girders. 9. Principal Joist - A large joist that carries much of the floor load. 10.Sleeper Joist - Any joist resting directly on sleepers

11. Ledger, Ribbon or Ribband - a horizontal member which is housed in the studs of balloon framing and carries joists.

12.Ledger Strip, Ribbon Strip - On a beam which carries joists flush with the upper edge of the beam (or girder), a strip of lumber which is nailed to the

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side of the beam (along its bottom edge), forming a seat for the joists and helping to support them.

13.Sill - a horizontal timber, at the bottom of the frame of a wood structure, which rests on the foundation.

Floor Joists on Beams/Girders

A wood floor is a horizontal structural system composed primarily of the following members:

• joists • girders • sheathing

Wood floor systems have traditionally

been built of solid sawn lumber for floor joists and girders, although parallel chord wood trusses and wood I-joists are seeing increasing use, and offer advantages for dimensional consistency, and spans. Floor joists are horizontal, repetitive framing members that support the floor sheathing and transfer the live

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Laying out and Constructing a Platform Floor Assembly

After the foundation is completed and the concrete or mortar has been properly set up, assembly of the floor system can begin.

The construction of a platform floor assembly is normally done in the sequence shown below:

Step 1. Check the foundation for squareness. Step 2. Lay out and install the sill plates.

Step 3. Build and/or install the girders and supports. Step 4. Lay out the sills and girder for the floor joists.

Step 5. Lay out the joist locations for partitions and floor openings. Step 6. Cut and attach the joist headers to the sill.

Step 7. Install the joists.

Step 8. Frame the openings in the floor. Step 9. Install the bridging.

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SELF- CHECK NO. 5.3-1

Check your mastery in the load conditions and structural system response by completing the tasks below.

answer. Write the letter of your choice on the space provided . 1. The letter H in the Figure 1 is pointing to the ______.

a) sill c) bearing pole

b) termite shield d) sill sealer 2. The letter C in the Figure 1 is pointing to the ______.

a) tail joist c) joist header b) trimmer joist d) common joist 3. The letter F in the Figure 1 is pointing to the ______.

a) tail joist c) joist header b) trimmer joist d) common joist 4. The letter G in the Figure 1 is pointing to the ______.

a) tail joist c) joist header b) trimmer joist d) common joist 5. The letter L in the Figure 1 is pointing to the ______.

a) joist header c) column b) beam or girder d) triple joist

(40)

ANSWER KEY 5.3-1

1. A 2. C 3. B 4. D 5. B

(41)

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.3-2

FLOOR OPENINGS

FLOOR OPENING and PROCEDURES IN FRAMING.

Headers, trimmers and tail joists form the framing for floor openings.

Trimmers and headers are doubled when the header span exceeds 4 feet. Headers more than 6 feet in length are supported at the ends by joist hangers or framing anchors unless they are bearing on a partition, beam or wall. Tail joists which exceed 12 feet in length are supported on framing anchors or on ledger strips not less than nominal 2x2 inches.

Headers run at right angles to the direction of the joists and are doubled. Trimmers

run parallel to the joists and are actually doubled joists.

Joists are framed to the headers where the headers form the opening frame at right

angles to the joists.

These shorter joists, framed to the headers are called tail beams, tail joists, or

header joists.

The number of headers and trimmers required at any opening depends upon the shape of the opening, whether it is a simple rectangle or contains additional angles ; upon the direction in which the opening runs in relation to the direction in which the joists run ; and upon the position of the opening in relation to partitions or walls.

A typical procedure for framing an opening like the one shown is given below:

Step 1. First install full-length trimmer

joists A and C, then cut four header pieces with a length corresponding to the distance between the trimmer joists A and C.

Step 2. Nail two of these header pieces

(headers No. 1 and No. 2) between trimmer joists A and C at the required distances.

(42)

SELF- CHECK NO. 5.3-2

Check your mastery in identifying the different parts of floor opening by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION: Identify the different parts of floor opening by writing your answer

(43)

ANSWER KEY 5.3-2

(44)

Lay-out/install wall studs CONTENTS:

• Components of a Wall

• Measuring and Cutting Studs

1. Wall studs are identified, measured and cut based on working drawings and specifications with tolerance of + 3mm maximum on all measurements 2. Horizontal studs are laid–out and installed based on working drawings and

specifications with tolerance of + 3mm maximum on all measurements 3. Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules and

regulations

4. Appropriate PPE are used according to OSHC regulations

5. Housekeeping is performed according to safety standards and regulations

CONDITIONS:

(45)

Learning Experience

LAY-OUT/INSTALL WALL STUDS

Components of a Wall

Laying-out Wall

Measuring and Cutting Studs

Perform Operation Sheet No. 5.4-2a

on Assembling the Wall

Perform Operation Sheet No. 5.4-2b

on Erecting the Wall

Perform Operation Sheet No. 5.4-2c

on Plumbing and Aligning the Wall

(46)

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.4-1

COMPONENTS OF A WALL

Upon completing this section, you should be able to IDENTIFY the

COMPONENTS OF A WALL . A. Components of a Wall

Residential wall systems have traditionally been constructed of dimension lumber, usually 2x4s or 2x6s, although engineered wood studs and cold-formed steel studs are now seeing increased use.

The figure below identifies the structural members of a wood frame wall. Each of the members shown on the illustration is then described. You will need to know these terms as you proceed through this module.

• Blocking (spacer)A wood block used as a filler piece and support between

framing members.

• Cripple stud—In wall framing, a short framing stud that fills the space

between a header and a top plate or between the sill and the soleplate.

• Double top plate—A plate made of two members to provide better stiffening

of a wall. It is also used for connecting splices, corners, and partitions that are at right angles (perpendicular) to the wall.

• Header—A horizontal structural member that supports the load over an

opening such as a door or window.

(47)

• Partition—A wall that subdivides space within a building. A bearing partition

or wall is one that supports the floors and roof directly above in addition to its own weight.

• Rough opening—An opening in the framing formed by framing members,

usually for a window or door.

• Rough sill—The lower framing member attached to the top of the lower

cripple studs to form the base of a rough opening for a window.

• Soleplate—The lowest horizontal member of a wall or partition to which the

studs are nailed. It rests on the rough floor.

• Stud—The main vertical framing member in a wall or partition.

• Top plate—The upper horizontal framing member of a wall used to carry the

roof trusses or rafters.

• Trimmer stud—The vertical framing member that forms the sides of rough

openings for doors and windows. It provides stiffening for the frame and supports the weight of the header.

B. Exterior Wall Framing

• Studs are at least nominal 2x4 inches with the 4-inch dimension forming the basic wall thickness

• Stud spacing is normally 16 inches in exterior walls, although 24-inch spacing of 2x4 studs is acceptable

• Studs are arranged in multiples at corners and partition intersections to provide for rigid attachment of sheathing, siding and interior wall finish materials.

(48)

D. Interior Partition Framing

There are two types of interior partitions:

1. Bearing partitions which support floors, ceilings or roofs • Studs at least nominal 2x4 inches

• Plates are lapped or tied into exterior walls at intersection points • Single top plates are permitted where joists or rafters are supported

directly over bearing wall studs

• Studs supporting floors are spaced a maximum of 16 inches on center • Studs supporting ceilings may be spaced 24 inches on center

• Headers in bearing walls are used to carry loads over openings, as required for exterior walls

2. Non-bearing partitions which carry only the weight of the materials in the partition, including attachments in the finished building.

• Studs are nominal 2x3 or 2x4 inches and may be installed with the wide face perpendicular or parallel to the wall surface

• Single top plates are used

(49)

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-1

Title: Layout a Wall

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to layout a wall

Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, fasteners, pencil Tools and Equipment: • hand saw

• hammer • • folding rule • try square • chalk line Steps/Procedure:

Step 1. Mark the locations of the soleplates by measuring in the width of the

soleplate (e.g., 3½") from the outside edge of the sill on each corner. Snap a chalkline to mark the soleplate location, then repeat this for each wall.

Step 2. The top plate and soleplate are laid out together. Start by placing the

soleplate as indicated by the chalkline and tacking it in place. Lay the top plate against the soleplate so that the location of framing members can be transferred from the soleplate to the top plate. Also tack the top plate. Tacking prevents the plates from moving, which would make the critical layout lines inaccurate.

Step 3. Lay out the common stud positions.

To begin, measure and square a line 15¼" from one end. Subtracting this ¾" ensures that sheathing and other panels will fall at the center of the studs. Drive a nail at that point and use a continuous tape to measure and mark the stud locations every 16". Align your

framing square at each mark. Scribe a line along each side of the framing square tongue

(50)

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-1

1. Did I lay-out and mark the location of the wall according to the house plan?

2. Did I use appropriate personal protective equipment in laying out the wall?

3. Did I perform housekeeping according to safety regulation?

(51)

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.4-2

MEASURING AND CUTTING STUDS

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the HOW TO

MEASURE AND CUT STUDS

A. To determine the stud length when the installation is directly on a concrete slab

• Simply subtract the thickness of the soleplate (1½") and double top plate (3") from the desired ceiling height and add the thickness of the ceiling material. • The length of the stud is based on the ceiling height,

which is 96", plus the ½" thickness of the ceiling material, less the combined plate thicknesses of 4½", or 92". (This assumes that the flooring material

has no appreciable thickness.)

B. To determine the stud length when the thickness of the underlayment must be considered

• The length of the stud should be 925/8"; i.e., ceiling height plus the combined thicknesses of the ceiling material and underlayment (½" + 5/8"), less the combined thicknesses of the plates (4½"). (Again, we

are assuming a flooring material of no appreciable thickness.)

C. To determine the stud length for non-bearing wall that does not require the use of a double top plate

(52)

D. To determine t he length of a window or door trimmer stud

• Subtract the thickness of the soleplate from the height of the header.

• If the installation is on a wood floor, the thickness of the underlayment must also be subtracted.

E. To determine the length of a cripple stud above a door or window

• Combine the height of the trimmer and the thickness of the header, then subtract that total from the length of a regular stud.

F. To determine the length of a cripple stud below a window

• Determine the height of the rough opening from the floor, then subtract the combined thicknesses of the rough sill and soleplate.

(53)

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-2a

Title: Assemble the Wall

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to assemble a wall

Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, fasteners Tools and Equipment: • circular saw

• hand saw • hammer • wrecking bar • folding rule • try square • chalk line Steps/Procedure:

Step 1. Start by laying the soleplate near the edge

of the floor. Then, place the top plate about a regular stud length away from the

soleplate. Be sure to use treated lumber if the soleplate is in contact with a masonry floor.

Step 2. Assemble the corners and partition Ts using

the straightest pieces to ensure that the corners are plumb. Also, save some of the straightest studs for placement in the wall where countertops or fixtures will hit the centers of studs (such as in kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms).

Step 3. Lay a regular stud at each X mark with the

crown up. If a stud is bowed, replace it and use it to make cripples.

Step 4. Assemble the window and door headers and

put them in place with the crowns up.

Step 5. Lay out and assemble the rough openings,

making sure that each opening is the correct size and that it is square.

Step 6. Nail the framework together. For 2 × 4 framing,

use two 16d nails through the plate into the end of each stud. For 2 × 6 framing, use three nails.

(54)

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-2a

1. Did I cut/trim the needed materials (lumber) according to dimension as specified in the house plan?

2. Is the assembled wall in according to the house plan and specifications of ± 3 mm on all measurements, plumbness,, levelness and squareness?

3. Did I deal with unexpected situations accordingly? 4. Did I perform housekeeping according to safety

regulation?

5. Did I use appropriate personal protective equipment in assembling the wall?

(55)

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-2b

Title: Erect the Wall

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to erect a wall

• hand saw • hammer • wrecking bar • folding rule • try square • measuring rods Steps/Procedure:

Step 1. If the sheathing was installed with the wall laying down, or if the wall is

very long, it will probably be too heavy to be lifted into place by the framing crew. In that case, use a crane or the special lifting jacks made for that purpose . Use cleats to prevent the wall

from sliding.

Step 2. Raise the wall section and nail it in place using

16d nails on every other floor joist. On a concrete slab, use preset anchor bolts.

Step 3. Plumb the corners and apply temporary exterior

bracing. Then erect, plumb, and brace the remaining walls. The bracing helps keep the structure square and will prevent the walls from being blown over by the wind. Generally, the braces remain in place until the roof is complete.

Step 4. As the walls are erected, straighten the walls and nail temporary interior

bracing in place. Assessment Method:

Portfolio

(56)

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-2b

1. Did I use a cleat to prevent the wall from sliding while erecting the wall?

2. Is the erected wall in according to the house plan and specifications of ± 3 mm on all measurements,

plumbness, levelness and squareness?

3. Did I secure the wall with temporary exterior and interior bracing?

4. Did I use appropriate personal protective equipment in assembling the wall?

(57)

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-2c

Title: _{Plumb and Align a Wall}

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to plumb and align a wall

Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, fasteners Tools and Equipment: • hand saw

• hammer • wrecking bar

• folding rule • try square Steps/Procedure:

Step 1. Plumb one corner post with a level or a plumb bob. Nail temporary braces

to hold the post in place. Repeat this procedure for all corner posts.

Step 2. Fasten a chalk line to the outside of one corner post at the top and stretch

the line to the corner post at the opposite end of the building. Then fasten the line to this post.

Step 3. Place a 3/4-inch block under

each end of the line for clearance.

Step 4. Place temporary braces at

intervals small enough to hold the wall straight.

Step 5. Nail the brace when the wall

is far enough away from the line to permit a 3/4-inch block to slide between the line and the plate.

NOTE: Do not remove the temporary

braces until you have completed the

(58)

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.4-2c

1. Is the erected wall in according to the house plan and specifications of ± 3 mm on all measurements, plumbness, levelness and squareness?

2. Did I use appropriate personal protective equipment in laying out the wall?

(59)

Lay-out/fabricate/install roof frames CONTENTS:

• Types of Roof Designs • Roof Frames

• Parts of a Roof

• Tension and Compression of Truss

1. Types of roof and other components are fabricated, laid-out and installed according to working drawings and specifications with tolerance of + 3mm on all measurements, plumbness, levelness and squareness

2. Roof components are installed according to working drawings and specifications

5. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and OHS specifications

CONDITIONS:

2. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Claw Hammer • Pencil/Marking pen • Pull-Push Rule • Nylon String • Steel Square • Try-square • Hand Saw • Chalk Line 3. TRAINING MATERIALS • Personal Protective Equipment

• Portable Circular Saw • Plan and working drawings • Lumber

• Nails • Plywood

Manuals

(60)

Learning Experience

Lay-out/fabricate/install roof frames

Types of Roof Design

key

Roof Frames

Answer Self-Check No. 5.5-2 Compare your answer to the answer _key

Parts of a Roof

Answer Self-Check No. 5.5-3 Compare your answer to the answer _key

Laying-out Truss

Tension and Compression of Truss

(61)

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.5-1

TYPES OF ROOF DESIGNS

Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the Different

TYPES OF ROOF DESIGNS.

A roof in residential construction is typically a sloped structural system that supports gravity and lateral loads and transfers the loads to the walls below. Generally, the four options for wood roof construction are

• roof trusses

• rafters and cross-ties

• rafters with ridge beams (i.e. cathedral ceiling) • timber framing

The major types of roofs are:

1. Shed Roof, Lean-to Roof or Pent Roof - a roof shape having only one sloping plane.

2. Gable Roof or Pitch Roof - a roof having a single slope on each side of a central ridge; usually with a gable at one or both ends.

3. Hip Roof or Hip and Valley Roof – a roof which slopes upward from all four sides of a building, requiring a hip rafter at each corner.

4. Pyramidal Roof - a hipped roof that usually has four to six sloping surfaces, terminating in a peak.

(62)

5. Pavilion Roof - a roof hipped equally on all sides, so as to have a pyramidal form; a pyramidal hipped roof.

6. Gambrel Roof - a roof which has two pitches on each side (U.S.); in Great Britain called a Mansard Roof

7. Sawtooth Roof - is a development of the shed roof made into a series of lean-to roofs covering one building. This is commonly used in factories where extra light is required through the clerestories formed in the vertical portion of the roof.

8. Butterfly Roof - is a two shed roof where the slopes meet at the center of the building.

9. Dome - is a hemispherical form of roof usually found in observatories. 10.Conical Roof or Sphere - is a steep roof of circular section that tapers

uniformly from the circular base to a central point. - is a steep roof of circular section that tapers uniformly from the circular base to a central point.

(63)

SELF- CHECK NO. 5.5-1

Check your mastery in the different types of roof design by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION: Identify the types of roof design in the illustration. Write your

answer on the space provided.

1. ____________________________ 2. ____________________________

(64)

ANSWER KEY 5.5-1

1. Gable roof 2. Hip roof

3. Cross gable roof 4. Gambrel roof

(65)

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.5-2

ROOF FRAMES

Upon completing this section, you should be able to IDENTIFY the PARTS

OF ROOF FRAMES

Some important roof terms are:

1. Common rafters - These are framing members that extend at right angles from the plate line to the roof ridge. They are called common rafters because they are common to all types of roofs and are used as the basis for laying out other types of rafters.

2. Hip rafters - These are roof members that extend diagonally from the corner of the plate to the ridge.

3. Valley rafters - These rafters extend from the plate to the ridge along the lines where two roofs intersect.

4. Jack rafters - These are a common rafter. The three kinds of jack rafter are: • Hip jack, which extends from the plate to the hip rafter.

• Valley jack, which extends from the ridge of the valley rafter.

• Cripple jack, which is placed between a hip rafter and a valley rafter. The

cripple jack rafter is also part of a common rafter, but it touches neither the ridge of the roof nor the rafter plate.

(66)

SELF- CHECK NO. 5.5-2

Check your mastery in identifying the different parts of roof frames by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION: Look at the illustration below. Identify the parts of the roof frames

by writing your answer on the space provided.

1. _______________________________ 2. _______________________________ 3. _______________________________ 4. _______________________________ 5. _______________________________ 6. _______________________________ 7. _______________________________ 8. _______________________________

(67)

ANSWER KEY 5.5-2

1. Hip rafter

2. Ridge or Ridge board 3. Valley jack rafter 4. Common rafter 5. Hip jack rafter 6. Valley rafter 7. Overhang 8. Plate

(68)

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 5.5-3

PARTS OF A ROOF TRUSS

ROOF TRUSS.

Roof trusses incorporate rafters (top chords) and ceiling joists (bottom

chords) into a structural frame fabricated from 2-inch-thick dimension lumber, usually 2x4s or 2x6s. A combination of web members are positioned between the top and bottom chords, usually in triangular arrangements that form a rigid framework.

Roof trusses are able to span the entire width of a home without interior support walls, allowing complete freedom in partitioning interior living space.

Truss Framing and Parts of a Truss

A truss is a structure composed of a combination of members, usually in some triangular arrangement so as to constitute a rigid framework. The major parts of a truss are:

1. Chord - A principal member of a truss which extends from one end to the

other, primarily to resist bending; usually one of a pair of such members. The two types of chord members are the upper or top chord and the lower or bottom chord.

2. Web - In a truss, any member which joins the top and bottom chords. There

are two types of web members: the vertical web members and the diagonal web members.

3. King post - A vertical member extending from the apex of the inclined rafters

to the tie beam between the rafters at their lower ends. A joggle post is a king post having shoulders or notches at its lower end to

support the feet of struts.

4. Collar beam - A horizontal member which ties together (and stiffens) two

opposite common rafters, usually at a point about halfway up the rafters.

(69)

SELF- CHECK NO. 5.5-3

Check your mastery in the different parts of a roof by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION: Look at the illustration below. Identify the parts of the roof frames

by writing your answer on the space provided.

1. ___________________________ 2. ___________________________ 3. ___________________________ 4. ___________________________ 5. ___________________________

(70)

ANSWER KEY 5.5-3

1. Slope 2. Rafter

3. Bottom Chord 4. Splice

(71)

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.5-3

Title: _{Layout Truss}

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to layout truss

• hand saw • hammer • wrecking bar • folding rule • try square • measuring rods Steps/Procedure:

Step 1. Get the material to a level spot of ground where work benches will be

almost level.

Step 2. Obtain from the blueprints the measurement of all pieces to be used in the

truss.

Step 3. Lay out the length on the different sizes of timber and cut them accurately. Step 4. After all lengths are cut, lay them in their correct position to form a truss. Step 5. Nail them together temporarily.

Step 6. Lay out the location of all holes to be bored. Recheck the measurements

for accuracy.

Step 7. Bore holes to the size called for on the print. Use a brace and bit or the

woodborer that accompanies the air compressor. Bore holes perpendicular to the face of the timber.

(72)

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST

OPERATION SHEET NO. 5.5-3

1. Did I lay out the length of the different sizes of timber and cut them accurately?

2. Did I assemble truss components according to working drawing s and specifications with tolerance of ± 3 mm on all dimensions, plumbness, levelness and squareness?

3. Did I use appropriate personal protective equipment in cutting formwork materials?

4. Did I perform housekeeping according to safety regulations?