Best Ever Woodworking Project

(1)

Febf\1

1 ..,

22,

~

i

~v .. ··.··.·-. 6 l

(2)

THESE MACHINES ARE OF THE SAME HIGH QUALITY AS OUR R

E

GULAR GRIZZLY VE

R

S

IONS!

HU

~

(•f

C

0 PUR

~E THE~E

TIE~

IN'f

OU 0

I

-

THESE PRICES ARE VALID THROUGH DECEMBER 31

,

2010.

GOSSSP

ULT

IMA

TE

14" BA

NDSAW

INTRODUCTORY PRICE

$

398 °0

G0656PX

G071SP

1 0"

H

YB

RI

D TABLE SAW

W

I

T

H

RIV

I

NG KN

I

FE

INTRODUCTORY PRICE

s

7s8

oo

G0452P

6 "

JOI

NTER WITH

BUILT IN MOB

ILE

BASE

INTRODUCTORY PRICE

$

398 °0

G0656P

8" JO

I

NTER

INTRODUCTORY

PRICE

$7

28 °0

~-~

8" JOINTER WITH

SP

I

RAL

CUTIERHEAD

INTRODUCTORY PR

I

C£

s

999 oo

IUf

G

1 03S

P

1

_h

_{HP S}

_HA

_PER

INTRODUCTO

R

Y

PRICE

$

498 °0

G0459P

1 2"

B

A

BY DRUM

SANDER

INTRODUCTORY PRICE

G0453PX

$

528

00 G

0 453P

15" PLANER

INTRODUCTORY

PRICE

$

898

00

1

5 "

P

LA

NER WITH

SP

I

R

A

L CUTIER

H

E

A

D

INTRODUCTORY P

R

IC

$

1398

°

0

(3)

To simplify construction, the wine rack on page 4 features two tips and four patterns.

Great proiects, great tiPS:

Keep 'em coming

T

o<l.l}. I hul•\ IIU 'hmt.l~l' ol \\ood\\UI 1-.lrt~ pl.lll\ to dwml I rom Hut wh,ll I\ Ill \hurt \llpplv .lll' \IIIIJI 11'\/t'd proll'lt plolll\ \t 1\'(}()/) lllolj.\oiiiiW, Wl' 1-IHI\\ wh,ll woodworkl'l\ l \fll'll Ill plolll\ H'riltl'd dlrm·mioll\, trlpll' l hl'l'kc:d \ll'Jl hy·\l\'fl lll\lfUt 11011\, olllll l0111pil'll' ollld olllllrollt \1.11t doll\ ll\1\ ollld ( uttlng l>i,lj.\follll\.

to ut\llll' '>lllll" ill }our \hop, our \t,lll hulld\ l'\l'l) how-to prult'tl ill tht• \\'00/) \hop, lut.llt•d jll\1 .1 ltw \tt'j)\ lrorn our ullin~. 111 thl\ puhllt.llrort, \ .. t'w ·'''" hi)othllghtt"tl 'IH>Il tip' Ill tolw t'\ It 1- \u Y•Hr pit 1\ up on till' 'hop·lt·.u1wd trltk' \\\' rrrtwvuul whlk hulldl11g tlw prtljl'\ 1'. ollld jlr\'jlolflllg lilt' 111\t flit tiOil\,

Wht•m·H·r "''-' torlt.; tolny.tlrto,ldt•r,, tht•) tt•llrl\ o\!tl ,rlld oH·r how mudt tlll'y oiJlJllt'd,rtt• tht• tip' th,rl ll\UIIIJ)olll> our projt'd\ With

woodmogotlne.com

IIW .rdVtlll OJ till' illlt'IIH'I Wl' \ l ,lddt•d mot~.• woodwurt-tnx lwlp h~ pmtlng lnlorm,rtlw how In photm IIHI vltkm

oil I (St•t lmhvidlloll

.rrtldt•\ lnr lllorl' dllollh)

I or "'· It\ ,111 ,rhout J.\lhllolllll't0_lriM your \IIlli'\\ with lholl IW\1 woodwort.;. IIIJ.: prujnt.

Morlrn Ktmmet Monagmg ldttor Left. An end table Is part of a three table Jet, beglnlng on poge 66. A helpful video showing how to cut the tapered legs with a tablesaw Is noted In the project Instructions.

J\l'lh•f 11111111\ ~11111,.111h m•

WOOD

M A O A Z I N £

Best-Ever ProJects

&Shoo nos

Woothllil9<1 '1111' ( Oltl

E•llto1•ln Ch · i Bill KRI£A

MdiMq•n 1 I d11~r MARLEN K[MM[T Ot•puly I d•IOI OAVl CAM PUll l'uloll<oai•Of1 I dll•tr CARl VOSS Tooh ldllor BOB HUNT£R I low to [tltt• • lUCAS P(TlRS I'IOj«h ld•lur CRAIG RUlG~LGGER Stnior C>t!$~Jn ld•l•~t lt(VIN BOYll

l'lodu<toon/Oih "M''"'''l"l MARGAR(T CLO~N[R A<h111n 11~11\l lo\1 '""'' ~lllAVL MUNYON

Phol<>< loiJlhl'n jASON OONNlllY, SCOTT LITTL£, JAY WILD£ ConlniJYini<JIIk olrollc, TIM CAIIILL. LORNA IOIINSON

ROXANN[ ltMOIN[ (C>ntlllxliUI<J (ralhm on JIM ll(AV[V Contrllxtlin'l P1 ""Iff• •lu IRA lACIIlR Nl Ollt'(lur KARl £11UIU

P1ojC'< 1 All D•rt•t lo• RAY NlUIIAU(R A\iO<I•It! Att l>ottt lur GIUG S£lllRS

AOVlltTISING AND MAitKrTING

C II ( A(,Q J) ll N Midli J.U A •Ill II I ~00. Cluc .. lgo, II bO~OI

Aclvt 111\•1"1 M 11 Jot • JACK CIIAIHIANSLN OllrciiiP'Jlonu Act r 111 111JIIrptr 1'1\t.lllvt' li~A GIHlNWOOO

A1\ ''·'"' K(VIN BARRY AtlANTA N•vtol•tf! M£'d1<1 Ul1ROIT 111'1\.l AU()(IAII'i llu\lnr.n M ln41•J I j[H STIL£S

Comun~r M¥ t•lonol l>ln-c:l .. l' TODD 811 Rl( lie IMI lr~n•f Mnn loJ<'I N~w\•htrwl IUS liDOU PmchKIIon M.1C~ot!Jet SANOY WILLIAMS Alive rto,lti<J Oper~I<On' M4114•J• r JIM NllSON r Cu111111Mll M~II8<Jilf MATT SNYD[It Vkt Pli!lid£'1•1/(.ro••JI l'ul '' 1 TOM DAVIS M[IIIDITH NATIONAL MIOIA GROUP

ru

~I nl TOM IIAitTY

lUCUTIVI: VICE PIU!SIDLNTS

PI\ ~I· Ill, C'omoJn'lll 11~•,.1· ANDY MRlVAN

Prt d· rll. M• ttdilh lniNJr~ltd M.11k1 tonq MARTIN f AllOY (h • I M~1 rl 119 Otlkr1 NANCY W£8(R

Cor..ur 1 t I•"'II"P M or."l'~'~ 111 tid OoQ•I·tl Mt .1 lll SCiliMH Chltl III'W'IIIJt'l Olh rr MICHAU 81tOWNHliN

Chid lnn!JVAUf>ll Ofl• i-t M<'ltdoth }(,()' J(ANNIN£ SHAO COLliNS Gt•nt 1~1 Mo11M•I• 1 Milt( RIC~GS

Dlr (fill OJlllolhom ft lu 11 u Dfowln11rntnl DOUG OLSON SENIOR VICE PRUIDlNTS

(on-uno M ll~rlllfJ DAVID Bt\ll

ldtturul 01 tor, Of'~ Mo

n

•'

GAVL£ GOODSON IIUTllA ldttnrlfl Ou«tnl. Nrw Yl ·~ SAllY l[(

Mmtd lh WornPO'I N•IV•"Ir. I.AUII£N WI(N[R Chk-1 lt"chnoloc)y Oil~ fl JACK GOLOlNII(IIG C10up Pul~o\htl JAM[S CAliA

C.10up PuiJh•l> r CAIIlV WITM[R VICIE PltlSIDlNTS

Corpot411 \•'· ' BRCNDAN SMYTH D•lt<l ,, •o · II 1,.¥ I PATTI rOLLO

Ntw Med•• k MM•ttoriCJ 'oCrvK • ANDY WilSON Rc ~~rth ~olultom llltiTTA WAll£

(omnnm 111 ~''PATRICK TAYlOR Newut.Jnd DAVID AlGIIIC Production IIIUC( lllSTON

moredlth

In Mtmorfam- (,T, Mtrtdllh Ill, 19H 2001

---CICco""" ~1...01 (~I otlelll JOI h • • '.~ P'llftlfd "'-""

U \A '.no;! loin ~obion o.on- ,., olitOOO lor ••""' ""·~ .. ...__odo'll , ....

(4)

Mark the morti~e loco~t•on~ from the pattern onto the adjacent edge of each leg blank. Position the drill-press fence to center a !4" brad-point bit on the edge, shown at right, and dnll a senes of hole~ to the mort1se depth, ~,·. Clean out the mortise and square the corners w1th ~· and W chisels.

To cut the rail tenons, shown ill lower right, install a W dado set on your tablesaw, and lower it below the table surface. Attach an auxiliary rip fence, and position it for

W

cutting width. Add a miter gauge extension that reaches the fence. Start the saw and raise the dado set W' above the table, cutting a cove m the auxiliary fence.

On scrap stock the same size as the rails, make cuts on both faces to cut the tenon cheeks Keep the end of the railt1ght against the fence

Then, usmg the so~me saw setup, stand the test piece on each edge to cut the tenon shoulders. Test the tenon fit in the mort1ses, and adJuSt the setup a~ needed Then cut the tenons on both ends of the four rails

D

exPLooeo

VIEW

... self odhes1ve foot

h )( 1' monlse ~~.·deep, centered

-on·

(8)

Stand the frames {A/B) upside down to make It easier to position the rests (C) against the bottom of the ralls (8).

4

B<lll(l\,1\\ or \Cr<>II'>J\\ I ht• rl'\1\ <Cl tu 'IIMJX', cutting -;llghtl} out\idc the lim•. 'IIH.'Il \and to the line and n•movc tht• JMtlerm; rini-.h·\and the n.'\t\

5

Cillll' and clamp the rt''>l\ (( l to the

r

ra me\ ('\/B) (Drawing 1, Photo AI

Add the bases

1

tut the baw (D) blanks to sl1c. l.ty out the curved t•dge !Drawing

1

wllh a fairing \tick by drawing ,, llnl' tlhll conne<:l\ thc two endpoints .md tht• n•ntl•rpuint (I or .1trcc falrln~ \Ill k pl.m, go to • 1 l 1 .tiring.)

2

n.uuh.tw or \Croll'iaw thl' t:d~c nf

c,H. h h<t'il' (J)) slight I} out si(h.• t hl' line, then

''"'d

to thc llnc. Hnish-\,llld t hl' hil\C'> to 220 grit.

3

Wllh lhc rack a'>\cmbl}' (1\/H/C) up,lde down, center the h<lW'> \Ide· to-~ldt• on the hot tom~ of the leg~ (A) .tnd uvuh.tnglng the b.tck'> uf the k•g'

by

~.· (Dr•wlng

1

1 .

\1ark '>crl'W luc.ttlnm n•ntl•red un the kg">, then drlllwunter· '>unk ,h,lnl\ hole\ in the bJ\l\ (Dl and pilot hnh:' in t

h"

leg\

I

Photo

B

l

. {I·

or IIR

Cuffing Diagram

1!1

Drill screw holes through the base (0) Into the legs (A) with a countersink bit and portable drill.

\Crew'>, drill 12." 'lh.mk hnk'i and ~ •• • pi lot hole )

4

Giue and \Crcw th(' hil\t'' (Dl to thc rack am•mhly ( \/IV< ).

5

\Iter the ~luc drit''l, touch up the finl\h-\andlng ,,, lll'ct:\'lary and • tpply thrcc n>.tt'l uf dcJr, \Jlln flnbh, ,,mding to i20 grit l>ct wcen wat'l. While the flnl~h drk", ralw ,, ~1,1'1'1 of wine to tua\t yuur \tKn'\'1 .•

Wntttn by Lerry Johntton w11h Jeff Mertz

Projt' 1 dt~•gn Jeff Mertz

Illustration Roxenne LeMoine; Lome Johnson

Materials List

IINI\It(() \Ill

Part f W l M•tl Qty.

A legs 411" IW 8V." w

•

B ralls Yl" I h. 514" w 4

c·

rests Yl" 1 VI." 12" M

•

0 bdses Yl" 21S" 13" M 2

Materials key: M·rmple, W-walnut. Supplies: Spray ad~•~ 18K 1~· Oathe~d wood SCrew\.~· Sl'lf·ldhesN f t 41

Blade: dado ~et.

--.... -,,. .. • .,.. .. :tt.r -rr--.... ~--.:--.·.· _ _... •. ~

.,

.,..,.,!'WI':'"~

0

:C:ftlii~'JIJ..:rJI

--.--...

--·-

__

....,..._...__.-.,.-~X 3Vi X 36" Walnut ( l bd ft.) 1;. x S1_1J_X_36"_{Maple (}_l_{.5 bd ft.)}

Plane or resaw to the thickness listed In the Materials List. 6

NOTE: Enlarge the!>e half-size .

patterns to 200% on a photocopter to make full-size patterns for the legs (A), rails (B), and rests (C)

®

RAIL HALF

-

SIZE

PATTERN

{4 need

ed)

©

REST HALF

-

SIZE

:

r•• & ••

8'1•"

PATTERN

(4 n

eeded

)

Q.

I

a:

®

'0

..

' I

,..

Y,. X 1" mortises ~ ... deep, centered

®

LEG HALF

-

SIZE

PATTERN

(4 need

ed

)

-

.

_.

..

.

(9)

Big News From Forrest

s

For Discerning Woodworkers

For

64 years

,

Forrest

Manufacturing has been

setting

t

he

standard

for

quality

and mnovatJon.

Our blades

deliver smooth

,

quiet

cuts

without

splmtering, scratching, or

tearouts

.

This

is

the result

of our

proprietary

manufacturing

process

,

hand

straightening, and

unique

grade

of

C·4

micrograln carbide

.

Independent tests

rate

Forrest blades

as

1#1

for providing

clean

,

reliable rip

cuts and crosscuts

Now Forrest

Is once agam outpacing

the

compet1tlon

w1th these

four

new blades

'

'Signature Line

''

Chop Mm;ter

.

The blade features

rede-signed angles

,

90 teeth,

and a

-

5 °

hook

to

control

the

feed

rate

.

It

comes

1 n

1 0"

or

12~

diameters

and

5/8N

or

1"

center

holes

.

Woodworker

I I

4

8 Tooth

Design

.

This blade has

a

20°

face

reduced VIbration

.

hook,

a

25 °

bevel for an

easier

feed, and

a

1 0"

diameter with

1/8"

kerf

and

standard

5/8"

bore

.

Sharp points deliver clean

cross

gra1n

sllcmg

with

2-Piccc

&

4-Piccc Finger

Joint

Sets

have reversible, interlocking

6" blades

.

Also 1deal for

~

rabbets and grooves. The

~--~

blades have

24 t

eeth, a

standard 5/8" bore, and

make

3/16"

and

5/16"

cu

t

s or

1/4"

and

3/8"

cuts.

Thin

Kerf Dado'\

for

clean

-

cuttmg of

J..

3 /

16"

to

1 /

4 "

grooves in

thin

plywood

,

as

well as

In

man made

materials

.

Available as

a

two

-

piece

set

with two

24 tooth

out

-•

s1de saw

blades or as

a

t

h

ree-piece set tha

t

Includes

a

1 /16"

chippe

r

We have blades for practically

every

application

,

even

for dedicated

rip and

two-sided plywood veneer.

We

also

provide

ultra

-reliable

factory sharpen

ing. Please

contact

us for more

Inform

a

tion

. You'll find

our

friendly,

knowledgeable s

taff ready

to

a

ssist

you.

It's

E:L'\V

.

to Order

All Forrest blades are made m the U.S.A

and

come With a

30-day, money-back guarantee.

So order in any of

t

hese convenient ways:

• Vlsft one of our fine-quality dealers

or retailers.

• C

a

ll us

toll

fr

ee a

t

1 -

800 -

7 33-

7111

.

(In

NJ

,

973·473·5236

.)

• VIsi

t

our website:

www.

Forre

stBiades.c

om

"Thanks for a great product and courteous service ... "

Peter McDonald, Salem

WV

"Any future blades bought m my cabinet shop will be FORREST blades I only wish I had tried your blades

years

ago. Thanks lor a great productt•

Chuck Gomendi

,

Pavillion

,

WY

·1

really like my Forrest blades, have run others, but nothing performs like a Forrest "

Ben

0 .

Wtlson

,

CrawfordsVIlle

,

IN

Woodworker II Woodwort<erll WoodwOI'ker II ChopMIIttf Dido King Dido King 0Uflllnt HI·AT Custom Woodworker II F1ne Woodworkmg' Wood MnQAltllO Woodshop News WoodsllOP News Wood M.JQII71ne Woodshop News Woodshop Nows Woodshop News

0

• • •

0

(10)

This eye-catching kitchen accessory may look challenging

,

but it

'

s amazingly easy

to make thanks to a simple trick for creating the lively geometric pattern

.

Bonus benefit

:

This project prov

i

des one tough cutting surface-its end-grain top holds up well to

your sharpest kitchen utensils.

I

n ju'>t ,, wupk of eveninl-\' and u'iing

unl~ J flw n.trru\' \I rip\ of maple, dn•rr>• and \\'.1 lmn from your \crap hin. }OU <:.Ill nMkl• thi'> \tril..lng project.

\n na,tk• up \<lllll' damp'> and watcr

-rc\1\tant glue, and let\ gl't 1-\0ing.

Start by making a blank

1

1 mm m.tpll>, dwrr>~ .tnd \\,tlnut -.tcx:k hl'l\Wt'n :W .tnd I' thkl.:, lUI -.trip'> tO tlw \\loth'> .llld ~~v.:· h..•ngth '>hown on Drawing 1.

SHOP nP 3 Use up scrap. You con ust scrap stock for this proj«t with dlfftrtnt thlckntssts btcoust you'll plant tM blank too uniform

thlckntss ofttrglut·up. 8

To ensure tight joint'>, prt'(>.lre the \trip'>

by Jointmg one f,Ke Jnd till edge and then ripping thlm to the necded width\.

2

l.dgc-glul' the \trip\ with tlw Jointl'd races down In thl• arr.mgt•nwnt \hown on Drawing 1 .tnt! In Photo A. ro 1-.cep the glue-up tltlt, t:cnlu the damp-ing prc~Hare on the blanJ... by IX>\itlonlng ri\l'r block'> under the hlanl.., "' \hown

3

With the glue dry, \Crapl' off <H1> \qucczc-out from the l.llc\ ol the blank. I hcn pl.ll1l thc top l,tu.• until the hi.111J... I\ flat ,tnd thl' hl.111 1.. h,l\ a unilorm thit:l..nc:'>'>. 'low turn the hlanl.. mw and plane it to 'ril" thkk.

4

lrlrn the bl.tnkuuh \t(UMl.' .llld tu a flnalll'llgth

or

_\c;",

Now craft the cutting board

1

C ro\'llllt twenty-four llf•"-wlt.ll' \trip<,

from the blant.., a~ \how. n m Photo B.

2

'\lign the \tripe; on t:dgc with the wood pattcrm matched. fhcn turn l'\ef} other stnp l'nd for end to create the path.rn \hO\' n on Drawing 2. (I hi\ alw \tagger\ the joint~ ror ,, !>U(>l'r-\tr<>ll); hoard.) To \lmplif)' thl' glue-up, '>tp.tr.ltl' the <>trips into three ~roup-; of ei~ht

pil'Cc\.llluc and damp the pil'Cl\ lncac.h group togct hl•r, <l'> 'thown In Photo C. SHOP 4 Avoid glue sticking to cauls. To prt~nt tht cauls from sticking to the cutting

-board strips, ploet woxtd poptr bthind tht cauls and clamps.

(11)

Glue and clamp the contrasting wood strips

together In order, keeping the bottom faces and ends flush.

Using a stopblock attached to a miter-gauge extension on your table saw, crosscut 1 Y.."·

wide strips from the blank.

SHOP

TIPS

5, 6

&

1

Face glue and clamp together eight strips at a time. Keep the top and bottom edges flush

and the ends aligned with cauls. After the glue dric~. glue and clamp the

three group\ Into one l.lmlrhltlon, mt~l..· lng \ure }OU align them cum:~.:tlv to wntlnue the pattern.

3

\u,tpe off all ol the glue 'I<.JUlete-out

from the wttlng boaru. I hen, u\lng

3 tips for taking care of your

cutting

board

• 1 ht.'lt \Jmk'r or a r<tndorn-orhlt \Jntkr

with 80 grit <oandpaper, \and tiH.'ntttlng boMd face~ ju'll enough to flatten them. Now flul~h·'>•lnd the f<lle\ with u run-dum nrhll \ander, ll'llng progrl'\\lvely finN 'iandpapcr up to 180 ~o:rlt.

4

Rtp the long edge~ of the ~.:uttlng

hoJrd, h.~.wmg

•'

flnl\lwd wldt h uf II". Rout ~ • round-0\er'l.tlung Jll nf thl'

top anu bottom edge~ ilnd corm:r\ 'ow <~and the edgl'\, cnd'l, and round over\ to

lBO grit.

e

Protect wood. At least every three

months or whenever the wood looks

dry, reapply

a

protective penetrc~llng food-safe fln1sh to prevent water from soaking in and damaging the wood.

e

Hand-wash and dry. After use, hand-wash the cutting board in warm,

D

CUTIING·BOARD BLANK Walnut

soapy water, rinse it clean, and w1pe it dry Never let the board sodk 1n water .

e

Sand smooth. If the cutting surface becomes heavily scored, sand

it w1th

a

random-orbit sander, startmg

with 80-gril sandpaper and progres~ing to 180. Then reapply finish.

II

CUTIING·BOARD ASSEMBLY

Find more kitchen and acce$SOry

plans

at

woodmaga

1r

om

/

kitch n

woodmogozlne.com

•6x Yl" RH

e

wood screw

every other strip turned end for end

-

;II' W round overs along all edges and corn• rs W·diam .,..- rubber bumper

1 1' 1n from each edge

(12)

5

Apply a food \,Ill' finl'lh of )·our choin• as rc•wm nwndcd on the

product IJhcl.

SHOP 8 Food-•of• flnl.,t. Foro quick,

lntxpenslv~ finish, we applied thre~ coots of mineral oil, letting each coot ~netrote for five minutes, ond then wi~ off the txcess. For details, see "Is your fmlsh food-safer ot

oz1 wfl .

6

To prcH•nt tlw bo,ml lrom \lipping during U'll and to ,allow ,llr

under-neath It lor drying, c.Jrlll pilot holc\ an<.l

\crew \1\ ~·-d l,uneh.•r ruhhcr bu ntpers

to it' bottom, where \hown on Drawing 2. Now gathl•r up \Oilll' frl'\h Vl'Rl'l,lblcs,

and ~tart slicing and dlcin~ot!

Design Option 1

Simply alter the blank

for fresh new looks

llcre arc two ad<.lition,ll de'>lgm for vuu

to try. lo pruducc the pJI term, wmbilll'

contra~tang wood \trip' of dtlfcrent ~' idths to form tht• cuttlllg-ho.ud hl,ln~'

\hown below \!fake \tan.• that till' blank

\'\Ood patterm-whcn rl•wrwd ofhl•t Jll of thl joint ltnl''l by ,at leJ'It a,,•,

<\lthough there'!~ no rull tor thl· \trip

\'\ldth'i, keeping them hll\\l'l'll ~' .md

zv.·

takes advant.lgl' uf narrow 'l<r.lp bin rippings from your <;hop. l'n m;lkl' eithl•r of the~e cutting bo.~rth, follow the imtrucliom lm thl\ prujet t, t uttlng the

blanJ.. 'ltril>'~ to the wadth'l 'lhown bl'low.

Or If you feel advcnturoul, try your

h,md at a new design, now that you

know the oflc;ct ..ccret.•

Supplies: W~xed P'J)tr, "'ad·bowl fimh oc m•ner•l oi, W rubbfr bumpers Wlth smws (6). \'tot found thf oll1nd bumpm •t ~ hardware stot~.

Bit: K" round over router bit. Wrttten by Owen Dun II

Project dtsogn Jeff Mertz

lllu .tr"oons Mike Mlttermeler;

lorn• Johnson

Que~tlons about finish for this

or any other woodworking project?

woodmng .zlne com,'finishlng

•' round overs along all edges and corners • - - - • dlam rubber bumper

1 1' In from each edge

Design Option 2

10

Cut 114" wide stnps from

blank and pos•uon on end

•

•6x •-)• 1

• R.H.wood

1

_../\cr~w

Chtrry ~oo::::-~

grain to form cutting board\ ~

-1

• to l"lnlually, ,....

then planed to~·

-i

1

¥."}

Cut 1 '• widE' stnps from

blank and position on end

gra•n to form cutting board.

~·~·initially,

₃₅_{after trlmmang}

blank ends

(13)

Act

for a special free upgrade.

$199 Overarm Dust Collection:

A ~ 3 OHP Pr ' Cabr'l Saw

$139 Dust Collection Blade Guard: I I 11 I "'·' 111 r1 I ~

l:lrol lonal Crll ~· t ~ (St ndarn \\~h (M)fy 3 OHP)

(14)

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS

• Overall dimensions 39W wide x

16W deep x 21~" h1gh

• Materials used: P1ne, btrch plywood, and cedar closet lining.

• If you w1sh to build the chest w1thout the llntng and tray, simply om1t parts Q through W

• The .1ttrc1ctive trim profiles are mc1de using common cove, round-over, and stra1ght router b1ts.

• The che~t front/bJck and s1de panels assemble w1th strd19htforward stub-tenon-and -groove jomery • Looking to save t1me .md money? Order the hJrdw.ut> k1t contaln1ng the contmuous hmge, lid stays, and bun feet from th<' Source on pogt> 19. Prefer to turn tht> feet? Set" tht full sire pattern on

page

19.

12

Start with the panels

1

Cut the front/h<tll. \till'' (i\), 'ilk• \till'\

(B), front/hac!. rail\ (C), \idl' r.tll\ (D), and lronl/b.Jck ll'ntl'r \lilc'> (I) to tht• 'lite'> ll'>tl'd !Materials List, fillS<' 191. 'IJ\C the r.111 cutoff' for nhtl.i n~ te\t ll'nnn ...

2

U\fllg a dado blade ill your t,thh:<;.1W, cut a tentert'tl 1 ~· grooH' 1

" dwp

along the imillt t'dge of thl' lront/b.tck \tile\ (\),<,ide \till'' (ll), frunt/h.KI. rail\ (C),

and \ide rail'i (J)), ,md along /)()t/tl'tiRl''i of thl' center \llks (L) !Drawings 1 .uu.121.

3

Ag.un u!>tng your d.tdo biJdl' \CI, form

,, ~· wnon "• lon~ on hoth t•rHh of

tlw front/back rail'<<), \idt• rail\ (D), and front/bacl. center \tile' (h) bee Drawings 1

and 2, Photo Alto fit \llugl)' lnth~ groU\-1..'\

Ill the rail\ cllld \I ill'\. (Wl' C lll cl ll'\1 ll'll()ll

BONUS: Set 1 Slide Show

of

the project

auembly at

:

woodmagazine

.

coml

c

he

5 t

s

lld

cs

un .1 rail tutoff to wrify our ~o~tup ht•fmc Place oft used Items In a handy tray that

t uttlng 1 h~ tenom.) slides on the top lining retainers.

(15)

a

FRONT/BACK AND SIDE PANELS

h" foam

caulk·backer cord "long ..

1₄_grooves_•_{• deep,}_centered

SIDE ASSEMBLY

4

Adju'lt your tal>lc~aw \etup. 'I hen

cut

a

W' rabbet W dc..•cp .tlun~o: the olll\itlt• c..•tiKe of the front/had. '>tile'> (.\) on 1 he lmiclt• fac..e to receive 1 he 'ilde \tile\ (B) !Drawings 1 and

2

1 .

5

~rom edKe-joined '>lock, wt the

I runt/hack panel<; (I·) and \idt'JMnel'>

((I) to the \i/e\ li'ited (I he parwl\ .~rc..• ~ ' \hortt•r in width and h.'ngth th,lll the

openings to allow for liCii\Onal

rnovc-mc..•nt.) 'I hen cut <l ~· rahh<.'l W deep arountl each panel on the lmitlt' fau.• to form

a

''•"-thick lip that fit\ snugly In the

Kroove\ in the rails and \till'S !Drawing

1

1 .

6

,,u1d all of the part\ to 220 grit, and n.•movc the dmt from tht• pand\ (F, (,) ~t.tln the panels. (We applied V.~r.t

tll.llll' no. 218 rraditional Pt•t.tn 'lt.tin, flr\l Jppl)·lng Varathane Premium Wood

C ondltlorll'r to prl'vcnt hlotc..hing of the..• 'ltain on the..• pine.)

SHOP

9

Stain pan•l• first. For ~st r~sults, stain panels now. Doing so prevmtl unfinished tdges from showing w~n the pon~ls contract du~ to seasonal mowm~nt.

It

)Oll plan to imtall cedar In the c..he~t. \taln only the 0111\iclt• fan'> of tht• pJneh, as explained a/)()lt t('{llt In "\kip the inte-rior tlnl'lh for c.:edar-linetl che\h."

7

'lo a~\emble the front/bad .. JMneh,

mt~tk c..entcrllncs

on

ma~kln!-1

tape

on tlw ralh (()and cc..•ntt•r 'lllle' (1.) on the Otlt\itlt• faces for allgnlnH the \tile-..

llll'n, to keep the front/I><K k ,md \ldl' panc..•l., (f, (,) centered Ill the openlnK\,

cut from ~.· foam caulk-l>tttkt.•r cord

(<I\

a

liable at home center\) ~6 piece\ IYJ"

long for ~pacer\

8

lmNt the foam c;pac.:er'l Into thl'

~o:roovc-. In the front/back 'ltik-. {1\), rail~ (( ), nnd center ~tllec; (I'.) !Drawing

1

1.

J\'1 shown in Photo B, glue and c.:lamp together the c;tllcs, rallc;, and cc..•nter -.tiles

woodmogozlne.com

.~o• rabbet

y,·

deep

'•' foam caulk· backer cord '!o4"1ong

1₄_{grooves '}_•_{dt>ep. centered} FRONT /BACK ASSEMBLY

EIRAIL AND STILE DETAILS

'• • groove

v.·

deep. centered N" rabbet W dec pin parts@only

J

'

\7.

SHOP

TIP

10

31'•" for parts©---1 914' for parts@ 1_;4_groove _y 4 ~·deep, c ntcred

Skip the Interior fin

ish for cedar-lined chests

When rnstalhng cedar lining in a chest, do not apply any type

of ~tain, parnt, or finish to the hnrng, inside of the chest,

bottom of the hd, tray, and lid contact surfaces Why? The resins rn cedar are similar to those in turpentrne, so the vapors

will soften orl-and water-based stains, parnts, and finishes

(rncludlng lacquer), causing clothes and the lid to stick.

B

Using a miter-gauge exten$lon for backup,

form a 14" tenon l\"long on each end of the ralls (C, 0) and center stiles (E).

Glue and clamp together the front/back stiles (A), ralls (C), center stiles (E), and panels

(F) with the center stiles aligned.

(16)

Protect panels from damage and

stain with waxed paper When building frame-and-panel

assemblies, such as those for the blanket chest, waxed paper comes in

handy for more than protecting the panels (which need to freely expand and contract) from glue squeeze-out. By leaving the paper on the prestalned panels during the remaining assembly and staining of the project, the paper also protects the panels from scratches, scrapes, and additional stain. After

staining, simply pull the paper out from

under the panel trim (H, 1).

I ITRIM PROFILES ~·rabbet 'A" deep V4cove PANEL TRIM BOTIOM FRONT/BACK AND SIDE TRIM ~·round-overs

with panel\ (F) captured In the gro<lve~ ,ami llw center stile/rail <.:enterlln~ ,aligned. Apply glue only to the rail and ccnlt.'r·\tllc tenons (no glue on the panels or In the grooves).

SHOP 12 Avoid d«Jts In pin«. To prevent

marring the soft pine when damping, place scrop

blocks bdwM1 the damp heads and pine.

In the -.amc way, glue and damp togNhL•r thl' \ide Mile~ (B), rail~ (D), and

p.uwh (G) to form the \Ide panel\, again

lrl\l'rling thl' foam '>IX\Cer~ in the groove~.

Tr

i

m and glue up the chest

l

'lo form the long and short panel

trim (II, 1), cut four 2x48" pieces

ltom

V."

'lloc:J... U\lng ,, ~· cove hit,

Yu,''

rouml nwr bit, and a 1 i" -.tralght bit, rout

till' proliil•

and

rahhet !Drawlnglj along hot h c.•dgl''> of c.•ach pi en•

I

Drawing 4, Steps

1, 2, 4 .md Sl 1 hen rip a '~>"-wide trim \trip lrnm l'iKh edge. 'land the \trip\.

2

~litl•r-cut thl' long and !.hort trim

ptl'<.l'\ (II, I) from the \trip' to fit 14 Wued paper on panel®

II

ROUTING THE TRIM PROFILES Step 1 Fence

~nugly In the panel openings. To protect the panel\ (1·, G) from glue squeeze-out when lnst.alllng the trim and from

addi-tional stain when finishing the che'lt later, sec Shop Tip 11, afJOI'C'. Then apply glue along the rabbet In each trim piece, and imtall the trim, securing It to the ralls and sllles with ma~klng tape.

3

C..lue and tlamp together the front/ back panels (A/CH./F/11/1) and side

panl'h (B/D/G/1), mca">urlng for equal

diagonals to verify \quare !PhotoCJ.

Add the bottom and feet

1

Cut the bottom

U>

to si1e. fhen, from

14"

\toe'-. planed to match the

thick-Apply glue In the rabbets In the front/back stiles (A), and assemble and clamp the front/

back and side panels together.

Step2

Step4

StepS

ness of the plywood bottom, cut two 2x40" pieces to form the front/back trim (K) and side trim (I). U~lng W cove and leat-her Project• and Shop Tlpa 2011

(17)

11EXPLODED VIEW

'l.o • rabbet \•" deep _{/ ,}1

.

•a

x 2" F.H. wood screw

1

'l' ... shank hole, countersunk. wtth a~· pilot hole W deep In part@

~

Y.n" shank hole, countersunk on

bottom face

'~

.

=-c:::~ir

~

IDFOOT SUPPORT

MOUNTING DETAIL

(Viewed from bottom) 3~ x 3~· bun foot 0

"u" shank hole countersunk on top face of part®

,

I

~· shank hole, 1 ., countersunk and angled at 10"

----t-..,.-;:.;

t

~

®

Location of bun foot

~~~· round-over bits, rout the profile

!Drawing 3

1

along both edges of OM piece

.md one edge of the other 1Drawlng4, Steps 1, 2, and 3]. Then rip a W'-wide trim \trip

from each edge. Sand the 'it rips. Miter-cut the trim ple<.e~ to length to fit the bot

-tom, and glue and clamp them In place.

2

C'ut the foot ~upports (M) to -;izc.

Then rout a W' cove around the bot-tom edges of each upport !Drawing Sj. Glue a 3~iuc1~" bun foot, centered, to

the bottom (coved face) of each support.

!':ow drill two mounting holes through

the top of each support into the centered

foot

I

Drawing Sal, and drive the 'iCrew'i.

3

With the

bottom

face of the bottom panel U/K/L) up, glue and crew the foot support (M) a~ cmblies to the pnncl,

po.,ltlonlng the supports W from the

outside edges of the front/back and ~Ide trim (K, L)

I

Drawing Sa, Photo OJ.

woodmagazlne.com

m

Back of

chest-

_®

Glue each foot support (M) assembly to the

bottom panel (J/K/L). Drill mounting holes

angled at 10°, and drive the screws.

@

Location of 1 1 y,• continuous hinge 36" long ',it" rabbet ~.·deep

r-®

@

©

®

Drill mounting holes 1" from the outside edges of the front/back and side trim (K, L) to

mount the bottom assembly to the chest.

(18)

4

Po,itlon the che~t with the bottom up. Then center the bottom panel asc;embly U/K/1./M) on the chc~t. Drill mounling holcll through the bottom U)

and centered In the lront/back and side

ralls (C, D), where dimensioned (Drawing Sa, Photo Ej. Drive the ~crt•w-..

Top the chest with cap trim

1

Cut the front and side cap trim (N, 0) to the sLtc~ ll~ted except

2"

longer

In length to allow for precl~c fitting.

nout a

'il"

cove along an t'<lgc of each

piece (DrawingS].

2

Miter-cut one end of the front cap trim (N). Po~ II ion and clamp the

trim to the che~t, aligning the lmck edgl' with the 111\itlt• face of the top front ratl

(C) and the hc•el of the mlu.•rc•d end with an imide corner of the chest. Mark the heel for the miter <1t the otiH.•r end.

MIter-cut the piece. Now glue and clamp

It In place.

3

Miter-cut one end of each c;lde cap

trim (0). Position and clamp the

piece~ to the chest, verifying tight miter

joint~ with the front cap trim (N). Mark the fllll\hed length of the \Ide <.ap trim

ple<.cs 'IO that they overhang the back of the chest W (Drawing Sbj. C'ros'lcut the

trim at the mark-.. 1 hen glue nnd clamp the piece\ in plncc.

4

Cut the hack cap trim (P) to ~lt.e to

fit snugly bl'tween the .,Ide cap trim (0). then cut n ~·rabbet Yth" deep nlong

the hack cap trim to fit a I ~x.i6"

con-tinuom hinge (Drawings 5 and Scj. Now glue and clamp the trim In place, tlw.h with thc• Imide face of the top ba<.:k rail

(C), In the orientation 'lhown.

Slide each piece of the back lining (5) Into the rabbet In the bottom back lining retainer (Q),

keeping the lining joints tight. 16

D PARTSVIEW

- - - -13VJ'

-ti" hole ""deep, - -- ,

/

LID CLEAT Vu' shank holes, countersunk R w

·

%•" shank hole, countersunk

~

\1"

L

v,·

round·over 1"

l-

~·

.J

v.·

round-over on top

parts@and@onty LINING RETAINER

II

TRAY W rabbets •-•deep . . . .

00~

. . . :

~~

-v

.·

from bottom edge ~

Install the cedar

lining

1

rrom 1_h_"_M_oc_k_{, cu}_{t f}_o_{ur I}_x54"_p_iece~ to form the front/back and ~ide lining

retalnerll (Q,

n

).

(bach pil.'Ce > ll.'ld\ a front

or back and ~Ide retainer.) Cut or rout a 1_{11" rJ}_bb_c_t1_{/t" d}_ee_p_._1l_o_n_g_an_{c•tlgc of eac}_h

J)iece (Drawings S and 6). I hen rout 1_At" round-over~ a ion~ the edge\ of the pieces,

where llhown, omitting the round-over along the bottom edge of the two pieces that rou'llu~e for the bottom retainer~.

2

Miter-cut the front/back and \ide

retainer-. (Q, R) from the piece~ to fit

snugly in the chest. Drill mounting

hole~ through the retainers, where

~hown. Sand smooth.

3

Position the front/back and 1lide

retainers for the bottom (the ones without round-overs on the bottom

cdgc'l) in the chest. Using the mounting

hole~ in the retainer~ as guides, drill pilot holes Into the che'lt. l'hen drive

the screws.

4

'1o form tht• front/back lining (S) and side lining ( r), cut thirty 11 W'-long

piece~ from V1x.H~" cedar closet lining. (We found a IS-board-foot package of

48"-long lining at a local home center

enough material for the che,t.)

5 l

ay

out 11 pieces each for the front/

back lining (5), and fit the tongueo; and grooves tightly together. Measure

the length of the blanket cheM interior. C.:enLer this measurement on each ced.H

lining assembly. Then trim equal

amounts off the outside edges of the first

nnd last piece~ of each assembly. Sand

the lining smooth.

6

Po~itlon the chcllt \-\lth the back down. lmtall the back lining (S) (DrawingS, Photo Fj. Screw-mount the top back-lining retainer (Q) In place to

~ecure the lining. Now rcpo\ltlon the chest with the front dm.,n. In the ~ame

way, 1nst.111 the front lining and top

front retainer (Q).

(19)

l!l

uo

ASSEMBLY

7

lrum tht• rcmalnln~ n•dar linin~ pit'<.:t·\, l.ty out and fit t<lACt htr four

pk>ee~ cat:h lor the 'Iitle linin~ (I). \!fc,l\urt• !let \\l'l.'ll tht• f runt/\>.ttl. II nang (\l lor 1 hc

C\att wldt h ol tht• \i<.k llnlllg. \-. ht•fort•, ct•ntcr till' mc;l\urcmcnt on l'a<.h lining .t'l\l'mhl} .md l'UI off the l'llC.h. ~tnd thc lining \mouth Now lnst.tll tht•llnlng Jnd

rcmainin~ \ldl·-lining rt·t.lirll'r\ (R).

Build the tray

1

Cut tlw front/bad. (l ), \Ide'> (V), .tnd

bottom ( W) to the '>lie\ 11\tc<.l.

2

U<tlng ,, d,1do blade.:•, <:ut •• r,thhct'>

·t

dct:p ac.:nw; the end\ ul th(' front/ b,1cl. (lJ) on the i/1\ich l.ltl'\ !Drawing

71

I ht•n cut ,,

v.

,

•

gr<><>H'

v

,

dt•t•p v~· from the bottom td~t''> of tht• lront/hat·l. ami

\Ide-. IV) to lit the pi)'\\Oe>tl hot tom (\V)

\nnd 'mouth

3

Glut• .md clamp till' tr.l) together. \.le.l\un.• lor t•qu.ll d 1.1~un.1 1\ to verily \quMt'

woodmogozln•.com

Time for the lid

1 r

dgc jol n ~r.· 'ItO{ k to form a 17)(4()"

blanl. for the lid ('X). I hen tr<>\'>lllt and

rtp

till' lid to thl• llnl.,hcd \lit' ul 16~x \9~·. U\1ng

a

v

,

•

<.oo,;c-nnd-UIIt•t router hit, rout t ht• pro tile (Drawing Sal .1long the end'> and l'dgt'' of the lid. (Wt• u'ied

a

I rcud no 1R ·2H2 router hit.) A.., an altun.ttl\l' to the lt>vc-an<.l-fllltt profill', you 1.an rout,, ''"cove on till' lid. Snnd tiH' lid.

2

Cut thl' cleats (Y) I<> \lie. Dr.tw tht• radlu\ .tt l'a< h L'nd of the llt•.ll., (Drawing 61. U.llld'ill\\

anti \Jnd

to 'ihapt•. \le\t, drill three <.ountcf'>unk 'lhJnl. hole\ 1 h rough t ht• t1~.1h on the

lmt

tmn

l'dge, whl'rt' dlmemlom•d Now drill a W holt• .,.• t.lc~p In 1 ht• outer hoiL'\

(to .~ecom nwdatl' ltd rno-.cment) In

the I Of' l'd~c.

3

Wuh the bottom f<t<.:e of the ltd (X) up, position (\\lthout glue) tlw tlt•.lt\ (Y), wlll'rt• dimcmlum·d !Drawing

&

1 .

mJLID PROFILE DETAIL

Fence Bottom fac~

W1th the continuous hinge aligned with the

marks on the lid and the hlng~ barrel flush

with the bock edge, drill th~ mounting holes. Uo;ing till' ,h,ull. hoil'' In tlw cflo,tt' ,,,

guitil''>, drill pilot hniL'' In the lid. Now

drl'c the \Ul:\\\

Let's wrap things up

1

\.1nd .1ny

.trca-,

th.tt med it tu 220 grit, nml rL'IllOVl' tlw du\t. With till' wa\l'd l>.llll'r \tillsrl pl.ttt•

o

n

thL·

p.uu•J<.

(I,(,), appl\ wood wnthtlnnu and '>l.tln to till' dll'\1 .utd lid II )CIU lmtallL·d thL• u~dnr linin~. do 1wt 'llilln the imide ot the dtl'\t, bottom ol tht• ltd (X/Y), thl' topl.ll'l'\ ol thc l'<IJl trim ('l, 0, P), ,utd the tray <U/\/WJ a\ l'\pl.lined prt'\

1-oml} ltuno\l' thc \\J\lll paper I hen

appl~ ,, I itl 1\h to t h1.• ,t,llrtt·tl Ml'<~'• only. (We nppllt•d two coni\

ut

Varatham• Din-mont! W.lll'r-Basul l'ol)'urcthanc, .tnd \illtdt•d tu PO Rrit het Wl'en <:n.tl\ )

2

· n,

muu nt t h<. lid ( \ \ ), po\itlon ,,

fl,•" wntlnuou'> hlngl' .~6 long In thc r.thht•t<.•d h.td. l-.lp trim (I') (Drawings Scam!

8 J

.

J)rllltlw mounting hok-., hut

(20)

mJMOUNTING THE LID STAYS

---.---,

do nut drlw th~ \<.n:'A\. ~~~mov~ the coni inuum hlngl'

N~\1, pmitiontht•lld with thl' hottom

face up Mark ,JIIHnmtnt lim''> for the

hingl' on rn,l\ldng tapl' I~· from the l'lld\

of tht• lid at tlw /l,lCS.. ~dge With the

Cutting Diagram

Press on each lid stay to align the mounting bracket with the marked centerline on the lid

(X). Mark the mounting holes.

hinge leave'> ,It 90', pmlllun thl• hlngl' on th~ lid, aligning till' emh with tht•

mark~d linl''>, Jnd dnll till' mounting holes [Photo Gj. Rt•mm t• thl• hillgl' ,lfld tape. 'Jow scrl'w-mount thl' hingl' to tht• lid and back cap trim

~

I

©

[

@

.

I

1

~ x S\l 1C 96" Pint 14 bd ft.J 12 n~tdl

'Plant or rt~w to the thickneu llsttd 1n the Mattrlats list.

~

~~~

~~d

Q

~

~JD_L~

X

<D

®

I

.

,~ x 24 )( 48

.

B~rch plywood 18

3

lo mount the lid \tay\, pmltion the

<.heo,t

em

its back with th(' lid open at 90 . \ft~rk centerlines for mounting hoi('~

on the che'lt and ltd, where dtmcnsloncd

[Dr•wlng

9

1.

Align the appropriate

mounting-bracket hole In each \tJy with

the marked tentl'rline on the dlc'lt, and \cre\\·lllount the \tay'> using the \up plil'd \<:rews. Ne\t, align th(' stays with the ccnterlin('S on th(' lid [Photo Hj, mark

the mounting-bracket hole\, and CHtach

the \tt~y'>. 'Jow move the chc'lt to the chown lutatlon, and fill It with wooh.'m, llothco,, anti other Item~ that ueed

a

pro-tellivc home .•

Wnurn by Owen Duvall ProJ~Cl de~tgn Jeff Mertlt

lllu\lr,\liOni. RoiCanne LeMoine; lorna Johnson

" - - - , - - 3h" d1am. 3" diam. 2~"diam. 3W' dlam.

FOOT

FULL

-

SIZE

TEMPLATE

2Yl"diam.

Find more country furniture plans at:

woodmagazine

.

com

/

country

(21)

•

IINI\111 D \1/[ P•rt T W l ~,tl Qty Che~t panels A fronllbackstlles _~· 3~· 15 • p ₄ 8 side stiles ~· 3' 15 ~· p 4

c

frontlback ralls p ₄ 0 \Ide ralls p 4

E front/back _Cef'l_ter_sti_l_es ~· 3~"

g

.-·

p ₂ F fron_panelst/back

w

9~· 14'" EP 4

G side panels

_---

w

9~" 9 " EP 2

H' long panel trim

w

_~· 14 • p ₈

---I' short parlf't tnm

w

~- 9. p 16 Bottom bottom ~· 15 • 37'~· ...;;.. BP

__

K" front/back tnm 4' ~· 38'f.o" P 2 L • side trim ~· W' 16~" p ₂ M foot suppons ~- 4 • 4~· p 4 Cnp trim N' frontcaptrlm "'" 1114" 38W P 1

o·

~ldecaptrlm %" 1~' 16~. p 2 P b.xkcaptrlm ~· 1" 36" P Ccdnr lining

a·

front/back _h" _1' _36" _p ₄ Hn1ng retainers R' sidelini_r_etainersng h' 1' 14' p 4

s

frontlb.tc~l ntng h' 36' n .. CCL 2

-T sldelln•ng

~·

13~·· 114 CCL 2 Tray U front/back

w

1~· 12' p 2

v

Sides W bottom Lid assembly

w

1f1.' 13~' p 2 ~· 11Yt 13li' BP

x

·

lid It•' 16~' 3914" EP I Y cleats .,.. 1' 13h" P 3

~--~~----~--~~

P IS MlolllyCillo~e.slze. 5H tlw lnstru<t OilS

M•tertah key: P pt~. EP edge )o1n<'d pine, BP ·birch plywood, CCL-cedarcl~t II nine;~.

Supplies: ~o.o• foam cavlk b.Kklor cord, •8x2' fl.lthead

wood ..crtwS (8). t8>cl .. O..tht·,ICI wood scr.:ws 18). •sxl • f~·thead wood -.crews (231. •4x1' brass flathead

wood screws (24), 1 W continuous hinge 36'1ong, ltd stays

(1 pr.). 3 ·.3 • bun feet (4)

Blade •nd bits: Dado bt.Kie sec~· and h' cove. ~.-round·oom, 14" str<ught, ind ~·cove-and

r,

et

router bits.

Source

Hardware kit. Conta1nsa 1h'cont•nuoushlnge36'

long lid sta~ (1 pr), and 31!.x3 1-i' bun f\: t 141. A)k for

orderktt no. 30t7, $49.95 plus shipping and handling Call

or cl<k Meisel Hardware! Specl.:l ttes; 800·-« 1·9870.

mtf5('1woodhobby.com.

woodmagazlne.com

fUll-size pane

n

for

Wedged-tenon BenCh

®,©

STRETCHER

FULL

-

SIZE

END PATTERN

®,©

STRETCHER

FULL

-

SIZE

END PATTERN

KEY

FULL

-

SIZE

PATTERN

@

31_h"

Use the

full-size

patterns

below

to complete

the

bench

project

beginning on

the

page.

KEY

FULL

-

SIZE

PATTERN

@

(22)

Note: We

were

lucky to find a

16"-wide

oak plank for the legs

(

A) and

top

(F)

from whiCh

to cut the four parts for each leg and

the

three

parts for the top

.

When edge-JOined after machining

,

as noted on the

oppostte

page

,

the gra10 matches perfectly

,

and the mortises appear

to

be

cut toto the part rather than formed by mating notches

.

But

don't worry 1f you can't find a

w1de

plank. Careful board selection will

g1ve you grain matched parts for an equally attractive appearance

.

20

Vttw

a12-Photo Slide Show of tile

Wldged-Tenon Bench coming

together

It

woodmagazlne

.

com/benchslldes

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS

• Overall dimenstons are 14" wtde x 42•1ong x 16• htgh.

• The bench above ts made from 1' -thtck red oak wtth

walnut keys and wedges

• Learn techntques for secunng tenons with keys and wedges.

• No hardware is necessary.

• For the board feet of lumber needed to build thts proJeCt,

sec

page

23.

(23)

IJEXPLODED VIEW

~-\• x 1 Y1' notch

~xI~" notches

Trim to finished length after glue up

- - 10"

y.• groove ~·deep, centered ~-+--

i

- SW

2'

Begin with the legs

1\IJ"

t

16"

l

l·or thL' ccnlcr 'lcctlum of lht• ll'~., (A), cut 1 wo S )(I 6'-•" ho,ml'> from

I" \lOCI-. I hcn for I he OUIH \e(( iom of the h.~~'· (UI four i"'ud ';~t" hoard\ I

rom

the -.,um.• \toci..IDrawlng

1

1 .

2

Hlp lht• ~W'-widc lc~ (i\) center

\CCI I om Ill hJ If, U\lll~ .1 W -l..t:rf

"'"' biJdc In )OUr t,thlc-..tw. I htn

\Witch to ,, ·,· d,tdo hl.tdL .utd cut a

m<Hing llOI(h In c.rch h,tlf !Drawing 1 i.lnd Photo AI. Now lurm ,, notch In

c,Kh leg outenl><:tion I Photo Bl.

3

(,Juc ,uul damp thL' le~ (t\) tcnter \ectlom tugctlwr

I

Photo Cl. I hen w1th the gluL' dry, gluL' .md Ll,unp the

outer '>l'C tlom tn t hc n•ntL'r \l'll iom

I Photo Dl. llw protruding pot 11om nl the center \elllom form tennm to fit Into the bcnchtup (Jo} ttturthl''l !Draw

-Ing

2

1 .

I rim thL' emh to thc fin.tl lcngt h of 16", rernovl n~ nl.IIL'ria I on I>

r

m

till' h<lll()fll cdgc\. woodmogazlne.com ~'t groove ~·deep. Ct'ntercd

)

~x~· mortbe cut at

a

•

1

Y. • round overs

Using the rip fence as a stop, and backing the

cuts wtth a miter-gauge extension, form notches

In the leg (A) center sections.

Edge-join the leg (A) center-section halves.

keeping the ends flush to align the notches, to

form a mortise for the lower stretcher (C).

Again, using the rip fence and miter-gauge

extension, cut notches In the top Inside edges of the leg (A) outer sections.

Add the leg (A) outer sections to the center

section, offsetting the tops, to form notches for the upper stretchers (8).

(24)

Cut a centered ~· groove ¥.."deep In the tenon at the top of each leg (A) to receive the wedge(E).

Adhere the patterns to the stretchers, aligning the top edges. The upper stretcher pattern overhangs the bottom edge.

Inserting spacers between the center-section parts to form mortises for the leg tenons,

edge-join the outside sections.

22

4

Lay out thl•lcg (\)side curn''l with a

fairing slid. and the bottom arc with

a compac;~ [Drawing 1[. (!·or a free fairing

\lid. pl.lll, .)

Then band~aw ,md 'land to thc• line\.

'Jow rout ~~" round-overs on the edges

and bottom eml'l. l'inl~h- and the leg\.

5

lo later acnpt the wedge' (l·.), cut .1

,, • groow

t••

tlup in the top\ ol the

leg\ (A) [Photo El

Make the stretchers

1

Cut the upper \tretd1er' {B) <Hld lower \t rl•tchl'r (C) to ~i7e lhc•n to form angled mortl~s

m

the end\ ol the lower ~trctcher, chud.

a

~· brad point bit in your drill pre,.,, tilt the t.lhle toR,

and drill ovcrl,lpplng hole' [Drawing 3[.

Smooth the I mlde'l of 1 he mort he., with

il chi~el.

2

U~ing a 11₁_"_{dado hladt! In}_your_tah

le-'law form the 1"-wlde dadut'l In thc•

s1des and hottom'l of the upper \tn.•tch-er\ (B), tc\tlng tor a .,nug ftt in the four leg (A) note he\ (Drawings 2 .tnd 3[ I hen Ul'.lte a tenon at each end of t hc• lower

IJsTRETCHERS DETAIL

,

~X' • mon•se cut at 8 IJTOP ASSEMBLY

r

Outer SectiOn I' dadoes '-• deep Center sect1on 43'

st retd1l'r (C), testing thc•m for,, snug fit In the le•g murt1<..cs.

3

Jlhotoc<>py three \eh of the Stretcher End Patterns on JIII,IW 19, .llld <tdhcre

thc•m

with 'I"•'Y

.ldhc•\IVl' tot hc• 'it rete h -er\ (B, C) [Photo FJ. I hen b.tnd<;aw and

)and the end cur"e\. Hnl'lh·\,lnd the

'>I retdlef'l.

Form the keys and wedges

1

Pl.me 'ltocl-. to ~· thlcl-. lor the key'>

(D). Photocopy the Key Patterns on

pas,• 19, <tnd .1d here them tot he 'fl" stock

Band\ilW oll1d \and the l-.cyCi.

2

Cut

a

~.,<hd2" blanl-. fur the

wedges

(l·.) lhcn rip a beveled \trip from

one edge of the bl.111k [Drawing

S

J

.

Cut

two 5'1>''-lont-: wedge<; from the strip.

Top

I

t off

1 rur

the• top (F), cut twu hc4\pc43" bo,mh for the out \lc.k \Ct:l 1011'1, and a

lxS1 _•₎₍₄_,i"_{hoard for}_th_{e n•nter c,cctlon}

[Drawing 4[. Make sure the• el'llh:r-wctlon

bO.Hd I\ till' 'lame Width ot\ thl' k•ngth Of 1 hl' tcnom .It the top' of 1 he leg<; (A).

IJCUTTING THE WEDGES

Fence

\

Centerhnes '-· - - -15";..._----4-- - -15"

---

43"

---Outer ~ect10n

(25)

I h(•n dra\~ centNiine' acrov. the width\

of the board~. lo form the top morti\L\

cut .1w,1y the I" lung waste port lum, where o,hown. Marl.. the orientation of the two o;;hort end pice co; of the n•ntl'r <;cctlon for rca'iscmbly.

2

Udorc gluing up thc top(~). cut four

l"·thlcl.. sp.H.cro;; from scrap. M.akc

n•rto~ln the> arc the o;;.lllw thicl..ne'i\ a'

the tcnom on the end.;; (A). Then glue

and d.tmp the top (I·) )Photo G). Remove

the 'IJ><Kcrs and let the glue dry.

3 I

ay out the top

<H

end arc'> with n

beam com1Xl'i'i )Drawing 2), ami

band'-lw or jigsaw and \and to the line'>.

I hLn rout '••" round-owr'> on all emh

.111d edge\ of the top

lo

mal..e It easy to

lmert the •mug-fitting leg (A) tenom into

I he top mortl\e\, \CC Shop Tip 13 /Jt'IIJIV.

HnhiHand the

top.

Now put it together

1

Drv-fit the kg\ (A), '>lretchcr<, (B, C),

.md top (I) without l..ey'> (D) or

wedge\ (f.), ,1nd nMI.;t• .my nc<:e\\M}'

.ldlu\tmcnt\. Wh(•n .,,lll'>ficd with the

, SHOP

TIP

13

fit, i n..crt t hl' lmwr 'it rete her

<< )

into the

leg' and 1.1p tht• l..cy~ securel> In plate

)Photo H). ((lim! l\ll't ncce\\ilry with this \trong mt'<: h.ml<:a I joint.)

2

Apply glue to the dadoe~ In the upper

<,trctchcr., (U), ,md ~lidc them Into the

notches In 1 he end'> (A) (Photo 1).

3

Apply glm• to the top edge<; of the

upper 'ilrl'tchl'r'i (U). l'hen, capturing

the ll'g (A) tcnom In the top (I') morti\Ls,

t.1p the Lop Into place with a mallet. Apply

glue tot hl' wedge\ (E), and tap t ht•m Into

the tenon groove\ )PhotoJj.

4

With the glue dry, \and the wedges

flush with the top (I ).ln'iJlCLI all the

part\

ami

flnl\h .,,,nd \\ hcrc net'tJcd

5

Apply thc fini'>h. (We u'ied Vara-thant> Prl•mlum Wood ~taln no. 206 Summer 0,11.., lopped with three c<>.~t~ of Aqua lar w.ltcr-ha\cd <,,llln pulyurc·

thane '>andlng with 220-grlt ,,llldpapcr

hetwcen coat~.) •

Wr~tten by Mark Lane •nd Jan Svec

Protect de tqn Kevin Boyle

llluwat•om Roxanne LeMoine; Lorn11 Johnson

Easing mortise edges eases assembly

Dry-fitting and final assembly go faster when morttses and tenons come together

without a ftght. Easing the edges of

a

mortise guides the tenon Into place. To do th1s

when fitting the bench-leg (A) tenons Into the top (r) mortises, chuck a 45° chamfer

btl in your handheld router and adjust it to cut !4" deep. Make

a

pass around the mortl~s on the underside of the top (F), and dean up the corners with

a

chisel.

1 x S\1~ x 96" Red oak (5 bel. ft) • 0 E

Find more country furniture plans at:

woodmagazine.com/country

woodmagazlne.com

Materials List

IINI\111 0 \1/1 Part T W l M•tl Qty A• leg~ I" ll 16 EO 2 8 upperstr ·tcht'f~ I' Ui' M' 0 1 C lower strctc~r I' 2' 36"

o

... '¥1." 31'1" w 2

•

~·

s

w

w 1 F' top 1' 14' 42 EO

----'Parts irvtially cut over~~ze. Set the Instructions.

Materials key: EO tdgt·joined oak. 0 oak, W-walnut

Supply: Spray adM<.t..,.,

Blade and bits: Stacked dado set.~· and~· round·ovtr

routerbtts, • brad point btt.

Begin assembly by Inserting the lower·

stretcher (C) tenons Into the leg (A) mortises, and tapping the keys (0) firmly Into place.

Spread glue In the upper-stretcher (8) dadoes, and tap the stretchers Into the notches In the legs(A).

®

With the top (F) In place, apply glue to the wedges (E) and tap them Into the grooved tenons of the legs (A).