C155, 1600 90
thAve SW
Calgary, Alberta
(403) 255-7735
www.landinganimalclinic.com
[email protected]
KITTEN INFORMATION GUIDE
You have selected a wonderful pet. Cats are playful, easily house trained, naturally clean, require little grooming or training, and usually adapt beautifully to indoor living. Cats are great fun and make good companions. However, this does not happen without some effort. You should begin to address their need for your affection as well as physical and medical care even at this early age. Your kitten will require regular feeding, sleeping, playing, and training. Ongoing care and attention will help your kitten grow into a happy, healthy cat. We realize that new cat owners have many concerns, so we put together this Kitten Care Kit to get you off to a good start. Included are basic tips on litter training, health care, feeding, and grooming.
Please note: we have only scratched the surface. Please do not hesitate to call us if you have further concerns on anything concerning your kitten. Any one of our knowledgeable staff here at Landing Animal Clinic would be happy to address your kitten care issues.
VACCINATING YOUR KITTEN
When kittens are born, their immune systems are not mature enough to make antibodies until approximately 8 to 12 weeks of age. Nature provides for temporary immunity in the form of colostrum (milk from the mother), which is very rich in antibodies. Kittens who fail to suckle colostrum in the first few days of life will be extremely susceptible to diseases until their own immune systems mature and they can make their own antibodies. It is assumed that a healthy kitten did get their mother’s colostrum. After weaning, around the age of 8 weeks, it is now our responsibility to protect your new pet by putting him or her on a vaccination schedule.
VACCINATION SCHEDULE First visit – 8 weeks
Distemper combination (includes Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia)
Second visit – 12 weeks
Distemper combination and Feline leukemia (for outside cats) Third visit – 16 weeks
Distemper combination, Feline leukemia and Rabies
At each of your kitten vaccination visits, the veterinarian will perform a physical examination to make sure he or she is healthy. Feel free to ask any questions you may have about your new kitten at this time.
DEWORMING
Your new kitten will also be dewormed several times. This is important to protect your pet against internal parasites. Internal parasites are very common in kittens, and kittens usually acquire them from their mother. It is particularly important to deworm your kitten or cat in households where there are small children or immunosuppressed adults (adults receiving chemotherapy, adults with autoimmune diseases or the elderly). Occasionally worms can be transmitted between cats and people. Children and immunosuppressed people are more susceptible to this.
HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS FOR FEEDING YOUR KITTEN
Good feeding habits start as soon as you get your kitten. Your kitten’s diet will influence its health status, development, appearance and attitude. Kittens grow rapidly for the first few months and need extra, yet balanced, sources of nutrients during this growth phase. Excesses, deficiencies, and imbalances of certain dietary nutrients can predispose your kitten to many problems later in life. It is also important to prevent your kitten from gaining too much weight. Being overweight as a kitten can predispose him or her to obesity and obesity-associated health problems later in life. The following tips will get you off to a good start:
1. Choose your kitten’s diet carefully!
There is excessive misinformation in the market regarding kitten foods. We know it’s confusing, especially with all of the advertising and marketing efforts by pet food companies. The old adage “you get what you pay for” probably applies more to pet foods than anything else. We encourage you not to compare foods by the “Guaranteed Analysis” on the label – it tells you nothing about the quality or digestibility of the ingredients. Please don’t hesitate to call and ask about any issues you may have regarding your kitten’s diet – we are not interested in selling you food you don’t need. We are interested in your kitten’s health and well-being, and helping you understand the differences in food and how they impact your kitten.
2. Do not “free choice feed” your kitten
Free choice feeding is feeding your kitten as much as it wants to eat at any time it feels like eating. Free choice feeding can contribute to digestive upset (vomiting and diarrhea), bloating, and obesity. The best approach is to feed your kitten’s daily allotment of food in several meals daily. Most kittens are initially fed 4 times daily until 3 months of age. After three months of age, it is best to divide your cat’s daily allotment into 2-3 meals daily. If your kitten hasn’t eaten its measured amount of food within 15 minutes, remove it. Continue on with the same measured portion at the next meal. If you find your kitten consistently isn’t finishing its meal but is otherwise doing well, cut back on the total daily allotment. On the other hand, even if your kitten devours the meal in a few minutes, do not give more food. Watch its body condition and review this with us at each visit. If you have more than one kitten or cat, it is best to feed each cat a measured portion in his or her own dish.
3. Avoid feeding your kitten “human food”
Establishing right from the start that “human food” is off-limits will reduce the opportunity for obesity and can prevent an imbalance of nutrients in the diet. It is particularly important to avoid feeding raw fish, raw eggs, and large amounts of liver or small bones. Feeding from the table can also contribute to bad eating habits, and may increase the likelihood of bad behavior such as jumping onto the table or counters.
4. Change diets slowly
If you are changing your kitten’s diet, mix the new food with the previous diet in small amounts for the first day or two. Then the portion of the new diet can be gradually increased over a week or so until your kitten is completely on the new diet. This will reduce the likelihood of vomiting and diarrhea. Your kitten should make formed stool in the litter box. Please inform us if this is not the case. Also let us know how many times a day your kitten has a bowel movement. This information will help us to assess the health status of your kitten, the quality of the food it is eating and will help you in your litter box training efforts.
5. Dogs and cats have different requirements
The diets formulated for dogs and cats are significantly different. It is dangerous to feed your cat dog food. Cats require specific nutrients, which are not included in dog foods. Also, cats require significantly more protein.
6. Always have fresh water available
This is particularly important for cats, as most cats tend to drink more if the water is fresh, clean, or moving (dripping from the tap, or a cat fountain). Since Calgary has particularly hard water and can taste like chemicals, you may want to consider giving your cat bottled or Brita water (cats are more sensitive to odours and tastes than we are).
REGULAR CHECKUPS
Your cat should have regular checkups to make sure all is well. Get your kitten used to being handled; it should accept stroking, grooming, and a thorough once over as part of the daily routine. Once every week or so, take a good look at your kitten’s eyes, ears, mouth, paws, nails, skin, and coat. It pays off should you find a problem early, before it becomes serious. If you notice anything unusual, be sure to contact us.
EYES
Check your kitten’s eyes for:
• Redness or inflammation • A half-closed lid
• Excessive watering
• A yellow-green discharge or discoloration A kitten with an infected eye will rub it, so if you notice a lot of rubbing going on, have a closer look. You can prevent problems by keeping your kitten’s eyes clean. Wipe around each eye gently with a clean cotton ball soaked in warm water.
EARS
Check ears for:
• Discharge
• Excessive wax build-up • Dark brown or black wax • An unpleasant odour
Your kitten will scratch at its ears or shake its head frequently if they are bothering him or her. Take a look: healthy ears are pale pink, clean looking, and odour free. If your kitten’s ears are not, please contact us. Help keep them healthy by gently cleaning easy to reach external areas with a moist cotton ball or a commercially prepared ear-cleaning solution that is available at the clinic. Do not probe into the ear! Even if your kitten’s ears seem very healthy, you should handle them frequently. That way your kitten will be used to it and if there is ever a problem, it won’t mind letting the veterinarian take a good look.
TEETH AND GUMS
At 4-6 months, your kitten will lose its baby teeth and adult ones will come in. Examine the mouth for any soreness, discoloration, broken or loose teeth, and inflamed or receding gums. Pets, like people, need regular dental care. Dental disease is one of the most common health problems in pets, yet it can easily be prevented. You should begin by brushing your kitten’s teeth two to three times a week when your kitten is very young. Special toothpaste, toothbrushes, and oral rinses are available at the veterinary clinic. If you start early, your kitten will become accustomed to the procedure and regular preventive care at home can help save you money and keep your cat healthy.
All pets require regular cleaning with an ultrasonic scaler done by your veterinarian at some point in their life. Untreated dental disease can cause pain, bad breath, bleeding gums, loose or rotting teeth, and tooth loss. If periodontal disease progresses far enough it can even cause heart, liver or kidney disease.
If you have any questions about your kitten’s dental care program, please call us. We will be happy to answer your questions.
PAWS
You will know something is wrong with one of your kitten’s paws if it licks constantly or favors it when it walks. Examine the paw gently for cysts, and make sure there is nothing stuck between the pads or in the fur around them. If you can’t find an obvious wound, it is probably best to bring your kitten into our clinic where we can do a thorough examination.
Keep your kitten’s paws clean. Remove grass seeds, thorns, burrs, or any foreign object you find sticking to the paws. If something has to be cut out from the fur between or around the paws, use blunt tipped scissors and be very careful not to cut into the web between the pads.
NAILS
Clip your kitten’s nails frequently. Kitten’s nails can become very sharp and if you keep them short you can avoid unwanted scratching and climbing. Cat nail trimmers are better than scissors for trimming. Hold the paw firmly and clip a little at a time. Be careful not to cut into the “quick”, the sensitive flesh underneath the back of the nail. Should you accidentally cut
too far back and bleeding occurs, use baby powder or flour to help stop the bleeding (it can take quite awhile!) Don’t try to trim all the nails in one sitting. Pick a time when your kitten is tired and quiet, and trim a couple of nails only. Be sure to reward your kitten if it accepts its nails being trimmed quietly. If you have never trimmed a kitten’s nails before, let us show you how. If you would rather leave the nail trimming to a groomer or veterinarian, it is still important to handle your kitten’s feet often. If the kitten has never had it’s feet handled before, then it may get very stressed out from the procedure.
SCRATCHING
Provide your kitten with a scratching post and every time he or she attempts to claw your furniture tell him “no” and encourage him or her to use the scratching post. Try toys and catnip spray to entice your kitten to use the post. A water spray bottle is a great tool to discourage your kitten from destroying the couch or drapes. A quick squirt from the bottle when they are engaged in inappropriate behaviour and then re-directing them to their scratching post will quickly teach them where scratching is and is not permitted.
BODY AND COAT
Watch for any changes in your kitten’s skin and hair coat: • Increased shedding • Dandruff • Raw areas • Dry skin • Itchy skin • Rashes • Lumps • Anything unusual
A healthy coat is a sign of a healthy pet. Regularly running your hand over your kitten’s body is also a good way to determine if there are any lumps, swollen joints, or painful areas. Let us know if you notice anything unusual. Grooming should begin at an early age so your kitten gets accustomed to being brushed and handled. If anything unusual gets onto your kitten’s fur, contact us for instructions on how to deal with it. And remember to always reward your kitten for good behaviour when they are being groomed or handled.
EMERGENCY VETERINARY CARE
If you have an after hours emergency with your new kitten we recommend contacting one of the Emergency Clincs:
1) C.A.R.E Center (403)520-8387
2) Western Vet. Specialist Center (403)770-1340 3) Fish Creek 24hr Vet Hospital (403)873-1700
4) Calgary North Vet Hospital (403)277-0135 5) McKnight 24hr Vet Hospital (403)457-0911
6) Shawnessy South Pet (403)254-5900
**Note: Shawnessy South is open 8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun
PET INSURANCE
There are now 4 companies in Canada that provide pet health insurance. For the most part, their policies include coverage for accident and illness. These are the items that people find difficult to budget for. It is not uncommon for a veterinary bill to be more than $1000 for a medical accident or illness. We recommend that you review the pamphlets included with this package and consider if pet insurance is right for you.
CAT LICENSES
Cats 3 months of age and older in the City of Calgary must be licensed. Kittens under 6 months of age and spayed/neutered cats qualify for a reduced license fee. To qualify for the reduced rate, you are required to provide a copy of the “spay/neuter certificate”. Cat Licenses can be paid for by telephone, through the mail, in person, online, or through your bank’s internet or telephone banking.
City of Calgary Animal Services: Address: 2201 Portland St. SE Phone: 268-4350 or 311
Facsimile: 268-4927
LITTER TRAINING
Cats are by nature very clean animals. House training is generally very easy to accomplish if you follow a few general guidelines.
1. For the first few days your kitten should be confined to a small room or the bathroom (the place where you plan to keep the litter box in the future). It’s bed, food, and water dishes should also be placed in that room. This will be a quiet and safe space for your new kitten, and the confinement will assist in house training. After several days, the kitten should use it’s litter box regularly and can be let out to explore it’s new home.
2. It’s a good idea to select a litter (especially for initial training) that does not have any deodorant. Place about 1.5-2 inches of litter in the pan, and clean the litter box frequently. If it becomes too dirty, it may discourage your kitten from using it.
3. The litter pan should occasionally be dumped and cleaned thoroughly using just water or a mild dish detergent even if you use a clumping litter. Be wary of soap, as the smell of soap or deodorant can deter your kitten from using the box.
4. Place the litter pan in a quiet, private location. Cats like to be able to escape in any direction, so placing a litter pan in a closet is not a good idea. If you have a large, multi-story house, or more than one cat, it is a good idea to have multiple litter pans in different locations.
5. Do not punish your kitten if it soils outside of the litter pan, even if you catch him or her in the act. Cats don’t respond well to discipline, and cats that are punished tend to become fearful of the owner. If a trained cat has an accident in the house, check to see that its litter pan has been cleaned properly and that the bowel movement or urine is normal. This can be a sign of a medical problem, and if a trained cat is urinating or defecating outside of the litter box, please contact us, as this is considered abnormal behaviour.
CLEAN UP
To clean up any messes your kitten makes, use deodorizers and repellents. Do not use ammonia-based cleaners. Chemically, ammonia and urine are very similar, and this can encourage your kitten to continue messing in the same spot. We have a good line of cleaning products at the clinic which are very effective. Once you have cleaned the mess, barricade the spot until it is dry so your kitten doesn’t come back to investigate. This could cause further accidents.
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
Cats become sexually mature after about 6 months of age. Females also begin their reproductive cycles at this age. This cycle involves recurrent periods of heat, or estrus, during which males are attracted from great distances by an odour coming from the females. It is only during heat that females will accept a male. This period of intense desire to get out and find a mate is correlated with egg release from the ovaries. Once they reach sexual maturity, the heat cycle is almost continuous in cats that are not spayed until they mate or are spayed. Often female cats are very obnoxious during this time and vocalize frequently.
OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY (SPAY)
The surgery is performed under sterile operating room conditions with the animal under a general anesthetic, and involves the removal of the ovaries, fallopian tubes, and uterus (womb) through an abdominal incision. After this operation, the female will not come into heat, and will have neither the interest nor the capacity to breed. There is NO ADVANTAGE in waiting for the female to have a heat cycle or litter before being spayed. Apart from sexual activity, spaying has no effect on a female’s temperament.
Advantages of Ovariohysterectomy:
1. Males are not attracted to your property 2. Less tendency to wander from home 3. Less tendency to vocalize consistently
4. No unwanted pregnancies, thus contributing to the control of the pet population and the problem of unwanted litters
5. No reproductive problems later in life, such as uterine infections or birth complications
6. Reduced rate licensing after spaying
NEUTERING MALES
This operation involves removing the testicles, thereby eliminating the source of sperm and male hormones. It is routinely recommended for all male cats that are not intended for breeding purposes. Neutering can help control wandering, aggressiveness, and excessive territorial marking with urine.
