Home Care Essentials: Exterior
Winterizing Your Home – Exterior
Wintertime Hosebib Draining Instructions
Exterior Paint & Caulk
Driveways,
Walks
&
Steps
Roof, Gutters & Downspouts
Yard
Maintenance
Tips
Winterizing Your Home - Exterior
Disconnect all hoses from the faucets
"Frost free" faucets can cause a broken water line if the water in the
hose freezes and expands into the pipe
Drain the hose bibs & your sprinkler system
Drainage instruction sheet is located in your Homeowner’s Guide
Book on page…
There is also a bright green instruction sheet located by your water
heater in the garage.
Install insulation covers on all exterior faucets – Available at any
hardware store
During freezing temperatures, if the hose bibs / faucets are exposed
you can run the risk of freezing pipes.
Keep trees and shrubbery trimmed
During severe wind and rainstorms the wind can blow so hard that
weak and smaller tree limbs can break off and be hurled at your home at great speeds, causing damage to your home when they hit.
Clean the roof and gutters
Gutters that are too full of debris can back up and eventually cause a
leak into your home. It is best to make sure that the gutters and downspouts are free of debris.
Check for roof leaks
Check the flashing and vents for warps or holes.
Learn where the water shut off valves are located & how to turn
them off
Check the caulking around windows and doors
Replace weather stripping if needed
January February March April May June
Clean roof & gutters Clean roof & gutters Rake lawn & flower beds. Spring Plantings Time for new bark Regular yard Maintenance Clean out yard drains Clean out yard drains Clean yard drains Clean yard drains Clean moss/mildew off
concrete
Check siding caulk. Reapply if necessay Clean yard of debris Clean yard of debris Activate sprinkler system Clean mildew off siding Aerate yard once prior to
fertilizing Clean moss off roof Check siding for leaks De-thatch the lawn - once Clean gutters Fertilize lawn: 21-4-8 ratio
per 1000 s.f.
Prune hedges & broadleaf evergreens Prune deciduous trees &
shrubs
Fertilize lawn: 15-5-10 ratio
per 1000 s.f. De-winterize hose-bibs
Fertilize trees, shrubs & groundcover
Insect & disease control as needed
Mulch & weed as needed Fertilize trees, shrubs, & groundcover
Prune flowering trees & shrubs after they bloom
Insect & disease control as needed
Cranefly control Insect & disease control as needed
July August September October November December
Regular yard maintenance Regular yard maintenance Fall Plantings Clean roof & gutters Time for bark or mulch Clean debris from yard Clean out gutters Insect & disease control as
needed Regular yard maintenance Clean out yard drains Clean out yard drains Clean out yard drains Fertilize lawn: 21-4-8 ratio
per 1000 s.f. Clean out yard drains Check siding for leaks Clean leaves off roof
Clean mildew/moss off siding
Insect & disease control as needed
Fertilize lawn: 21-4-8 ratio per 1000 s.f.
Insect & disease control as
needed Winterize hose bib Clean out gutters Insect & disease control as
needed
Remove leaves from lawn & planting areas
Fertilize lawn: 15-5-10 ratio per 1000 s.f.
Remove leaves from lawn & planting areas Prune hedges & sheared
plants
Fertilize all trees, shrubs &
groundcover Winterize sprinkler system Remove leaves from lawn &
planting areas
Remove leaves from lawn & planting areas NOTES: Please refer to your homeowner's manual for all maintenance instructions
Apply fertilizer with a broadcast type spreader. Water immediately after application. Fertilizers with slow release nitrogen are recommended during summer months For best results, do not use "weed & feed" type application
Watering varies by soil type, temp. and degree of exposure. Water only when needed. Do not over water. Established plants will not require as much water. Cranefly control should be done only once between March 1st & April 15th
Fertilize trees, shrubs & groundcover with a balanced ratio fertilizer. Apply per manufacturer's recommendations. Always read the label prior to applying weed products
Add bark mulch to planting beds to maintain a depth of 1 1/2". Re-mulch every other year to maintain depth & moisture. Avoid placing mulch over plant crown. Prune to maintain shape & density. Prune to keep plants from touching the structure and causing insect and fungus transfer and damage.
W I N T E R T I M E H O S E B I B D R A I N I N G
I N S T R U C T I O N S
To help prevent your outside hosebibs (outdoor water faucet) from
freezing, drain pipes before temperatures go below freezing.
1. A hosebib located off an unheated area, such as a garage, will have
a shutoff and drain down valve. Locate this shutoff and turn it off
in a clockwise motion.
2. Disconnect hose.
3. Open up hosebib so water can drain.
4. Take small cap off the side of the shutoff; make sure the rubber
gasket is in the cap, and drain down the valve to allow water to
drain out of remainder of piping.
Cap with rubber gasket inside
5. Leave hosebib open and small cap off bleeder valve until weather
warms.
6. Do NOT leave any hose connected to the hosebib during freezing
weather.
We suggest that you tape the small cap to the bleeder valve so it does
not get lost. If water does not stop dripping after 24 hours, contact your
builder or plumber for repair.
WINTERTIME HOSEBIB DRAINING INSTRUCTIONS
To help prevent your front outside hose-bib from freezing, drain pipes before temperatures go below freezing.
1. A hose-bib located off an unheated area such as a garage will have a shutoff and drain down valve. Locate this shutoff and turn it off in a clockwise motion.
2. Disconnect the hose.
3. Open up the hose-bib so water can drain.
4. Take the small cap and gasket, off of the side of the shutoff and drain down valve to allow water to drain out of the remainder of the piping. Water will flow from cap area.
5. Leave hose-bib open and small cap off the drain down valve until the weather
warms up.
6. DO NOT leave any hose connected to the hose-bib during freezing weather.
7. Refer to the diagram on the following page and the green card left in the garage
We suggest you put the cap and gasket in a zip lock bag and tape it to the drain down valve so it does not get lost. If water does not stop dripping after 24 hours, contact your builder or plumber for repair.
If plumbing pipes break due to freezing weather, shut the
water off and contact a plumber as soon as possible. We
suggest you contact the original plumbing contractor if
possible. This is not covered under the builder warranty.
EXTERIOR PAINT AND STAIN
Definitions
Bleaching: Loss of color, usually caused by exposure to sunlight,
Bleed-Through: Cedar siding contains natural tannin that is subject to the bleed-through.
Bleed-through is normal, and this is not covered under warranty.
Fading: All paint colors fade over time due to sunlight and the weather.
Fuzzing & Knotting: Due to the pattern of cedar boards, some areas of cedar siding are
smooth and some have fuzz. Paint is applied equally to all areas of siding. Wood fuzzing, knotted areas, tight grain and large gapped grain are painted evenly.
Patchy Paint: Different wood surfaces may cause the illusion that the paint is thinner in
some areas.
Touch-up: Siding or painting over re-caulked areas, feather paint with brush across
surrounding two boards to blend color.
Zebra-Stripping: Over time, cedar siding will shrink. There is no way to control this
shrinkage. This may result in an unpainted thin line between the shingles.
Care & Maintenance:
Mold & Mildew: Mold and mildew will grow on any surface.
A mixture of a mild detergent and water, used with soft brush, will remove light moss and mildew.
Heavy growth of these fungi may require power washing of your home.
It is recommended that mold and mildew be cleaned as soon as it appears. The longer it is allowed to grow the higher potential for damage to underlying surfaces.
Peeling Paint: The condition of the exterior paint on your home is up to you.
If dirt, mold and mildew are cleaned on a regular basis, the paint should look good for many years.
If the paint on your home shows signs of wear or peeling, it is time to repaint. The quicker you can repaint damaged areas, the less likely the weather will cause damage to the underlying surfaces.
EXTERIOR CAULK
Cracking: Over time it is normal for caulking to crack. It is the homeowner’s
responsibility to maintain the caulk. Cut/scrape out old caulk and apply a new bead of quality, exterior grade caulk.
Expansion & Contraction: Some expansion and contraction may occur with siding as
the weather changes, this is natural. Should the caulking between boards appear to be squeezed out, DO NOT trim the caulking. As the boards contract, the caulking should go back into place.
Inspect: Inspect the integrity of the caulking seal a couple times a year on all siding
applications.
If cracked caulking is not repaired, water may enter through
the crack and damage the wall.
DRIVEWAYS, WALKWAYS & STEPS
Various materials are used for driveways, walkways and steps. Concrete and asphalt are the most common for driveways. Walks and steps are usually concrete, but they may be made of brick or other material.
Concrete – We have anticipated stresses on concrete driveways, walks and steps and
have provided contraction and expansion joints to minimize cracking. However, cracking is one of the characteristics of concrete. Unanticipated cracking sometimes occurs from unforeseeable conditions, such as severe frost. Ordinarily, the cracks are of no serious consequence.
Concrete Cracks – While the cracks can be filled, it is best to not do anything as the
patch will be more visible than the crack.
Asphalt – Oil, gasoline or similar substances can cause serious damage if dropped,
spilled, or leaked onto a driveway, walkway or parking area. Wash it off immediately with sudsy water and then rinse.
Winter Safety – Protect your driveways, walks and steps by removing snow and ice
promptly. If a thin layer of ice cannot be removed, use cat litter or sand for traction. These are safe for driveways, walks and steps as well as nearby grass and shrubs.
Do not apply salt in any form. Repeated thaw and freezing with salt can damage
ROOF
Proper care and maintenance of your roof can help prolong the longevity of your roof.
Care and Maintenance:
Do NOT pressure wash your roof.•
Pressure washing of your roof can SEVERLY ERODE your roof andcause permanent damage.
Keep you roof clean of leaves, branches and needles.
Use moss and fungus killers to protect your roof.•
Chemicals applied to a roof can be toxic and should only be handled by a roof care professional.
Never allow tree branches to touch or rub against the surface of your roof.
Take extreme care when installing any object on your roof.
Installing an object on your roof can void your warranty and / or compromise the integrity of your roof.Gutters & Downspouts
Care & Maintenance:
Always keep gutters and downspouts unobstructed by leaves, tree limbs or anything that could cause an overflow.
Make sure that the downspouts are directing water away from your foundation. During the Fall and Winter seasons you should plan on cleaning your gutters
a few times each season.
An ignored clogged gutter can cause extensive damage to your home.
YARD MAINTENANCE
LAWN WATERING
New Sod
Watering in the Summer:
•
A new sod lawn should be kept moist at all times during the initial two-week period.•
On a hot summer day it may be necessary to water 3 or 4 times a day for 15 to 30 minutes each time.•
On a cool dry day, 1 or 2 times for 15 to 30 minutes each time.•
If it rains, no watering may be needed.•
After this period, the lawn should be watered every 2 or 3 days during warm, dry months.Watering in the Fall or Winter:
If your sod was installed during late fall or the winter months, it will remain soft through the winter and spring seasons until the root structure can get established.
Hydroseed
The better job you do watering, the better your lawn will germinate and fill in.
For seeds to germinate properly, the top layer of soil must stay moist.
Frequent light watering for the first 2 to 3 weeks after seeding is necessary.Watering in the Summer:
•
During hot summer months it may be necessary to water as often as 3 or 4 times a day.•
On average, 10 to 15 minutes at a time per area should be enough to soak the top surface without saturating the soil to the point of puddling.•
Too much water can be as detrimental. Over watering can wash away seeds, as well as the nutrients needed for their proper development.•
It is recommended to stay off the lawn area until the root structure is established and the soil is firm.YARD MAINTENANCE
General Watering Guidelines for New Lawns
Water during daylight hours; morning is the best time.
Cooler morning air has more moisture and will help prevent water from evaporation.Avoid late evening watering, as wet or damp lawns at night are more susceptible to fungus and disease problems.
Sandy soils dry out faster and need water more frequently.
Soils with high clay content tend to dry slower but need more water to penetrate to thedesired depth.
•
With clay soils it may be necessary to water in intervals to avoid wasteful runoff until the desired amount of water has been applied.
Once a lawn becomes established, it needs about 1 inch of water once a week to maintain a healthy appearance.
You can determine how long to leave sprinklers running by making a few simple calculations.
•
One inch of rain will penetrate about 12 inches in sandy soil about 7 inches in loam, and about 4 to 5 inches in clay. Therefore, if you want to water to a depth of 12 inches you would need about an inch of “rain” in sandy soil, 2 1/2 inches in clay.
To find out how long it takes your sprinkler to produce 1 inch of moisture:•
Place a number of shallow containers at regular intervals in a line running out from the sprinkler. Turn on the water and note the time it takes to fill the containers to 1 inch.When you know how long it takes your sprinkler to produce an inch of water, multiply this time interval by the number of inches you want. The result equals the length of time to leave the sprinklers on.
YARD MAINTENANCE
WATERING SHRUBS AND TREES
The first year is a crucial time for newly transplanted plant material. Care should be taken to water and keep soil moist daily during the warm and dry months.
Until plants are established, water thoroughly and frequently.
Roots develop and grow in the presence of water, air, and nutrients. Except for naturally shallow-rooted plants (rhododendrons and azaleas, for example), plants will root throughout the depth at which these essentials are found. If only the top foot of soil is kept well watered, roots will develop in the top foot.
Shallow watering keeps the roots near the surface and plants will be open to severe damage in hot weather.
If they are not watered properly, they have no water reserve to draw from.
Prune shrubs on a regular basis to keep them looking full and to maintain their shape.
DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
French Drain: A French drain contains rock and perforated pipe, and may have a catch
basin attached.
Care & Maintenance:
•
It is essential for proper site drainage, not to cover the French drain with grass, plant materials or bark.Catch Basin: For drainage, water may flow into a basin. Maintenance is needed to
assure the drain will not get plugged.
Care & Maintenance:
•
To clean, simply remove the top of the catch basin, which is a metal or plastic lid, and remove silt or dirt from the bottom of the drain.•
Catch Basins are designed to catch dirt in the bottom so the pipe will not clog. Clean as conditions dictate.YARD MAINTENANCE
DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
Positive Drain: The positive drain is located in the crawl space.
Care & Maintenance:
•
The silt screen will need to be removed and cleaned.•
The screen will need to be cleaned as conditions dictate.•
Check the drain at least once a year prior to the wet, winter season for any debris that may restrict drainage.Maintaining the Drainage systems in and around the
home are homeowner maintenance items.
IRRIGATION SYSTEMS
Your new home may have had a landscape irrigation system installed as part of the landscaping package. If so, there are a few things you must do to keep your irrigation system operating correctly to prevent damage to your home.
Prior to the beginning of the growing season: and periodically during the season:
Check all sprinkler heads for proper operation and spray pattern.
Never allow spray pattern to spray against your home.•
A simple turn of the sprinkler nozzle should correct this problem.If the sprinkler head is not spraying properly:
There could be debris in the nozzle clogging the water flow.
To unclog the sprinkler head, simply unscrew the spray nozzle from the sprinkler head and tap it gently on a hard surface, dirt and debris should fall out.• If not, a short thin piece of wire can be used to clear the debris from the nozzle head.
YARD MAINTENANCE
IRRIGATION SYSTEMS
Always follow the watering guidelines in the previous sections in order to determine the
time needed for the specific amount of water desired. This should be checked annually,
and adjustments to the times for each zone may change during the growing season as the weather changes.
The long hot days of August may require you to water the sunny side of your yard longer than the shady side.
If you notice soft, wet areas several hours after watering, perhaps you should shorten
the watering time on that zone. Follow the instructions on your irrigation timer to set the various run times per zone.
Be careful not to over water and cause a drainage problem and waste water.
Prior to the cold winter weather, the sprinkler system should be drained
and winterized.
Winterization consists of shutting off the water supply to the irrigation system, and connecting an air compressor to the blow out valve within the system. The air pressure from the compressor should be used to cycle through each zone in your system to blow out as much water as possible to help prevent freezing.
YARD MAINTENANCE
FERTILIZING LAWNS
The three major elements of a complete fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
• Nitrogen. The element needed most by your lawn. It promotes root and blade growth and makes the grass a healthy green color.
• Lawns will grow slowly and become yellowish without enough nitrogen.
• Phosphorus. This element helps the early formation and growth of roots. New lawns require more phosphorus.
• Established lawns need very little as it does not flush from soil as readily as nitrogen.
• Potassium. The second most important element. It strengthens the grass and helps it withstand stress associated with foot traffic and periods of drought.
The series of numbers on a fertilizer bag represents the percentage by weight of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in the bag. A ratio of 16-4-8 represents 16% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, 8% potassium, and is recommended for established lawns.
Fertilizer with a ratio of 3-1-2 in its formula (21-7-14) or (15-5-10) is also suitable for Northwest lawns.
Lawns should be fertilized every 6 to 8 weeks from February through November.
Do not use weed or moss killers on your new lawn for a
period of 1 year.
An application of lime each year in November is helpful in balancing the acidity level prevalent in Northwest soils.
YARD MAINTENANCE
FERTILIZING SHRUBS AND TREES
• Feed plants twice a year with appropriate fertilizer in March and November.
• Air and water will penetrate planting beds more easily with weekly weeding and raking of beds.
The fertilization needs of a landscaping plant will vary according to soil type, species of plant, amount of rain, pH of soil, etc. Usually a fertilization of high nitrogen content is all that is needed. Read directions thoroughly and determine plant needs. Recommended: Any balanced ratio fertilizer, such as “Democote 14, 14, 14.”
If a tree is healthy and vigorous, the need to fertilize may be every other year. A 3-1-1 ratio fertilizer is recommended. The most efficient time to fertilize is early spring, yet
fertilizer may be applied in late fall and winter.
MOWING
• A lawn that is mowed frequently resists weeds, insects and disease and appears lush and healthy.
• Conversely, a lawn mowed infrequently will remove too much of the grass blade at one time and produce a lawn that looks thin and uneven.
New Sod
• New sod should not be mowed until rooted well into the soil. If you grab the
lawn and lightly pull on it, it should not easily give way and pull up from the soil. • The lawn may take up to two weeks before rooted sufficiently for mowing.
Hydroseed
• Newly seeded lawn should be grown to an average height of 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches before the first mowing.
General Care & Maintenance:
• After a lawn is established, mow to a height between 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches.
• Do not cut wet grass. The grass blades may not be standing straight and this can cause an uneven cut. Mowing a wet lawn can also lead to soil compacting.
• Remove clippings as this will give the grass a better chance to spread and fill in.
• Alternate mowing patterns. Mowing the same direction all the time can cause wear patterns and also lead to soil compacting.
