Installing the Short-Shift Kit:

Installing the Short-Shift Kit:

If you are also replacing your shift cables, you should have completed that task and are happy with the new and better shifting experience.

Please complete the cable installation steps including testing them before starting on the Short-Shift installation.

We want to be sure we are not compounding any existing issues before moving forward.

If you are using your current shift cables, you should look at the Identifying Your Cables page so you know which instructions you need to follow.

PLEASE read Considerations during the design

All modifications will be made to the gearbox Shifter Housing levers and bellcrank.

Although all of the modifications CAN be accomplished while still on the gearbox, you will NOT be able to install the extra roll-pin without removing the Shifter Housing.

The modifications are a bit easier if you are working with the Shifter Housing on a work bench

For the most part, the pictures used will have the breather removed from the shifter housing to facilitate picture taking. PLEASE remember to reinstall the breather if you remove it during the operation.

The kit will come with the sub-assemblies fully assembled.

You will be removing the old bellcrank and replacing it with a different one.

You will also be installing a new Fore-Aft (FA) lever on top of the original lever.

Although I have included a "U" shaped bracket to keep the FA levers in line,

I have also provided a pilot hole, drill bit and a roll-pin for you to install (if you feel the need).

This will provide a stronger "second attachment point" that will help to prevent

the levers from misaligning due to strenuous shifting that might distort the "U" shaped bracket.

Do I think the roll-pin is absolutely necessary? No, but I prefer to err on the safe side, so if you decide to take the shifter off to do your installation, I suggest you add the roll-pin install to the list of tasks.

There is no way to install the roll pin if you install the kit with the shifter housing on the gearbox.

You can click on any of the photos to see a larger version. Use the back button to return to the guide.

Sorry that I couldn't get all of the pictures to line up with the instructions. I wanted to make them big enough to see...

Download the PDF version of this guide

Tools needed for this job:

Small Straight Screwdriver pliers or mole grips 9/64in & 5/16in Allen Wrenches

or

3.5mm & 8mm Allen Wrenches 15mm Wrench

Small power drill

Picture of pre-assembled parts

Instruction Guides

Use the back button to return to this menu

Chapter 1: Preparing for the short shift installation Chapter 2: Removing the shifter housing If necessary

Chapter 3: Disconnect the Cables Skip if housing removed

Chapter 4: Removing the old bellcrank Chapter 5: Installing the new bellcrank Chapter 6: Installing the new Fore-Aft lever Chapter 7: Completing the Project

Return to the Top Page

Considerations during the design

The Fore-Aft lever is sandwiched on top of the existing lever and held in place with a bolt and nut through the original cable connection pin hole. Throughout the design process, the desire was to make a system that could be easily reversed and allow the shifter to be returned to standard with no modifications needing to be repaired.

I struggled with the "single point" attachment requirement for the fore-aft lever for a long time. Dave's solution was to weld a strap around the lever from the bolt area toward the new drive pin but that caused fitting issues and ruled out the adjustable pivot lengths. I tested the strength of the connection using high grade thru bolts and flanged nylock nuts and found it to be reasonably secure. I had tested adding a roll-pin to create a second mechanical attachment between the two levers and that worked well but really required doing the install with the shifter housing off the gearbox. This then brought up the reality that the gasket at the gearbox was obsolete and I couldn't find any replacements. I gave a lot of thought to Dave's strap solution and experimented with a strap that doubled as a flat washer for the bottom and had sides that wrapped up beyond the two levers thus acting like a gate of sorts to prevent the two levers from moving independently.

Honestly, if the levers become loose enough to not act as one, your shifting will be almost non-existent, but I wanted to reduce the potential of that ever happening. The class 12.9 bolt and class 8 nylock nut I provide are capable of 60+ ft/lbs of torque and the nylock design nut should hold forever. The "U" shaped bracket is there to discourage any movement that might try to un- thread the bolt and nut.

Adding a roll-pin is most likely an over-engineered addition, but I tried to make this kit as reliable as possible, so I leave it to each installer to decide if they want to add the final retainer to the installation. I decided on a 1/8 inch "coil spring" roll-pin as they are the most forgiving and the strongest, most reliable type of pin I could find. Also, the 1/8 inch hole causes no issues with the strength of the original lever, so the short-shift kit can be removed and the car returned to stock with no repairs or modifications necessary.

To revert back to original, you remove the Fore-Aft bolt and nut, gently pry the new lever off the old lever ( the roll-pin will remain with either the new or the old lever and it is removed with a pair of diagonal cutters once the new lever is off). Then, reinstall the original cable pin and nut. The same goes with the bellcrank. You remove the pivot pin, remove the new bellcrank, swap the pin and nut back to the old bellcrank and slide the old bellcrank into position, replace the pin and install the snap-ring.

Installing the new Fore-Aft lever Top (First) Page

Identifying your Cables

I have scrounged up the best pictures I could find of each type of cable set and what the ends look like.

There are Five (5) different shift cable sets in use today:

Stock OEM SE Style Cables: No Longer Available

These cables have fixed ends at both the shifter and the gearbox. They use a "bushing" type of attachment at the shifter and gearbox ends. The gearbox end has a "twist lock" component that allows you to slightly lengthen or shorten the outer housing to affect the final position of the shifter lever in the cockpit.

Stock OEM S2 Style Cables: Currently available from Lotus through their dealers These cables replaced the SE cables and have fixed ends at both the shifter and the gearbox.

They also use a "bushing" type of attachment at the shifter and gearbox ends. The gearbox end has threaded shafts with pairs of nuts that you adjust forward and backward to slightly lengthen or shorten the outer housing to affect the final position of the shifter lever in the cockpit.

S2 Cables use a different bulkhead bracket at the gearbox to hold the cables in place, You will need to replace this bracket along with the two redesigned cables to replace an original SE cable set.

A-B Cables: No longer being offered

A-B cables are very similar to the S2 cables but use different bushings at the ends.

These cables are slightly heavier duty and have fixed ends at both the shifter and the gearbox.

They also use a "bushing" type of attachment at the shifter and gearbox ends. The gearbox end has a threaded shaft with a pair of nuts that you adjust forward and backward to slightly lengthen or shorten the outer housing to affect the final position of the shifter lever in the cockpit.

A-B cables were sold as a "set" and the set included a different bulkhead bracket at the gearbox to hold the cables in place as well as a pair of short wrenches to assist in the installation and adjustment process.

Bob Brown Cables: No longer being offered

These are heavy duty type cables that have ROD ENDS assembled with a collection of machined adapters, bolts and nuts at both the shifter and the gearbox. The gearbox end has a threaded shaft with a pair of nuts that you adjust forward and backward to slightly lengthen or shorten the outer housing to affect the final position of the shifter lever in the cockpit.

The Bob B. cables were sold as a "set" that include a different bulkhead bracket at the gearbox to hold the cables in place.

BCN Cables: Currently offered at Lotus Elan Central and other Internet sites

These are heavy duty type cables that have ROD ENDS assembled with a smaller collection of machined adapters, bolts and nuts at both the shifter and the gearbox. The gearbox end has a threaded shaft with a pair of nuts that you adjust forward and backward to slightly lengthen or shorten the outer housing to affect the final position of the shifter lever in the cockpit.

The BCN. cables are sold as a "set" that includes a different bulkhead bracket at the gearbox to hold the cables in place as well as a pair of short wrenches to assist in the installation and adjustment process.

Stock SE / S2Cables

A-B / S2Cables

Bob B. Cables

BCN Cables

Index: Removing the shifter housing

Engine Bay Preparation:

1.

Open the bonnet (hood) as much as possible and support it with a suitable rod on the RIGHT (Off Side) side of the car. Do not attempt to use the normal prop rod as it will be in the way when you are working.

2.

Protect the Near Side (Left) Wing (Fender) from scratching as you will be working over that area a lot. Remove belt buckles and anything else that can scratch.

3.

Disconnect two plugs at the overflow tank bracket. Note location of spark plug wires at the coils and vacuum hoses at the vacuum solenoid valves, disconnect and move them out of the way.

4.

(Optional) Drain the coolant

.

5.

Remove the coolant overflow bottle (or just move it out of the way) (without soaking the area where the coils are located).

6.

Remove the two electrical plugs from the overflow bottle bracket and remove the bracket. Push plugs out of the way.

7.

Loosen the hose clamps / jubilee clips and remove the Charge Cooler Pipe and Hoses from the throttle body to the inner wing to give you room to work.

8.

Make sure you have adequate light to see what you are doing.

Clearing Access

Prepared (except for the water bottle)

Shifter Housing Removal:

Obviously, this won't be necessary if you are planning on installing the kit "on the car". Skip to Disconnect the Cables

The shifter housing is attached to the gearbox on the left hand side of the car (if sitting in the drivers seat). For the LHD crowd, that is the Drivers side; for the RHD crowd, that is the passenger or near side.

To remove the shifter housing, you need to disconnect the shift cables:

SAVE ALL HARDWARE AND PARTS YOU REMOVE!

If you are also replacing the Shift Cables, follow the Cable removal directions in the Cable replacement guide and skip to Disconnect the Shifter Housing.

For Stock SE/S2 cables, see pictures one and two at the right and use it to guide you to remove the spring clips at the pivot pins (Like the one marked at the green arrow). Remove the washers and pull the cables off the pivot pins. Save the pins and washers.

For A-B Cables follow the above instructions.

For Bob B. Cables, see the third picture on the right and use it to guide you in unthreading and removing the nut, washer and all of the spacers and adapters holding the rod-ends to the lever and bellcrank. Please pay attention to the order and positions of the hardware and spacers as you will need that knowledge later.

For BCN cables, see the fourth picture on the right and use it to guide you in unthreading and removing the nuts and washers holding the rod ends to the Fore-Aft arm and the Crossgate bellcrank. Retain the nuts and washers.

Stock and A-B Cables

Stock Clip on Stock or A-B Cables

Bob B. Cables

Preparing for Installation Remove Bellcrank

Disconnect the Shifter Housing:

Disconnect the wires from the Reverse Light switch (pink square) and from the Seat Belt warning switch (green square) (if you have one installed).

Make sure the shifter is in the 3rd/4th gear position: The fore-aft lever is in the middle of it's 3 positions (up, middle, down). The bellcrank is spring-loaded so it will be in the correct position.

Remove the Four (4) Bolts (yellow circles).

Carefully, wiggle, pry or otherwise break the seal holding the shifter housing to the gearbox. Try to be gentle so the gasket doesn't break.

Take the Shifter Housing to your work bench.

Continue to Bellcrank Removal

Bob B. Spacers and Adapters

BCN Cables

Disconnect the Shift Cables:

SAVE ALL HARDWARE AND PARTS YOU REMOVE!

If you are also replacing the Shift Cables, complete the entire process of installing and testing the new cables first and then follow these instructions For Stock SE/S2 cables, see pictures one and two at the right and use it to guide you to remove the spring clips at the pivot pins (Like the one marked at the green arrow). Remove the washers and pull the cables off the pivot pins. Save the pins and washers.

For A-B Cables follow the above instructions.

For Bob B. Cables, see the third picture on the right and use it to guide you in unthreading and removing the nut, washer and all of the spacers and adapters holding the rod-ends to the lever and bellcrank. Please pay attention to the order and positions of the hardware and spacers as you will need that knowledge later.

For BCN cables, see the fourth picture on the right and use it to guide you in unthreading and removing the nuts and washers holding the rod ends to the Fore-Aft arm and the Crossgate bellcrank. Retain the nuts and washers.

Continue to Removing the Bellcrank

Stock and A-B Cables

Stock Clip on Stock or A-B Cables

Bob B. Cables

Preparing for Installation Remove Bellcrank

Bob B. Spacers and Adapters

BCN Cables

OLD Bellcrank Removal:

This is easier at the work bench but I am showing pictures of the process while still on the car

Following the pictures on the right, locate the Bellcrank.

Using the small screwdriver, CAREFULLY remove the snap-ring holding the pin at the top of the shifter housing.

I say CAREFULLY because the snap-ring has a desire to fly off to other lands and you will most likely never find it. The replacement part number is A100F6115S if you happen to lose it.

Once the snap-ring is removed, put it somewhere safe since you will need it to put back in a few minutes.

Push the pin down and remove it from the shifter housing. Save for later.

Slide the bellcrank toward the outside of the car to remove it.

If you are using Bob B. cables or BCN design cables, you will re-use the components you removed earlier.

If you are using Stock or A-B Cables, you will need to remove the shift cable pin from the OLD bellcrank to reuse it on the NEW bellcrank.

The Shift Cable Pin installed in the OLD bellcrank

This is the shift cable pin I am referring to. You can remove it BEFORE removing the bellcrank or AFTER, it doesn't really matter.

The Shift Cable Pin installed in the NEW bellcrank

If you are using Stock or A-B Cables, install the old shift cable pin in the NEW bellcrank making sure the pin faces the same way on the NEW bellcrank as it did on the OLD bellcrank.

Starting Point

Remove Snap Ring

Push Pin Down

Slide bellcrank out

Remove Shifter Housing Install New Bellcrank Go to Installing the NEW Bellcrank

Bellcrank removed

NEW Bellcrank Install:

This is easier at the work bench but I am showing pictures of the process while still on the car

Following the pictures on the right, locate the Shifter Housing.

A small bit of grease will be helpful on the bushing flanges and pivot pin as well as on the action pin and in the slider groove. Not too much...

Because the NEW Bellcrank has a LONG action pin, you will need to slip the pin around the slider before setting it into the shifter housing.

Look at the pictures carefully and you will see the best way to approach setting the bellcrank into place.

Carefully slide the new bellcrank so the long pin goes AROUND the slider so it can engage from the far side.

Once the pin is engaged in the slider, rotate the bellcrank to slide the pivot into the shifter housing.

Line up the hole in the shifter housing with the hole in the bellcrank bushings.

From the bottom, re-insert the pivot pin. Make sure it is all the way up and the snap-ring groove is visible.

Reinstall the snap-ring making sure it is fully seated in the groove.

If you are using stock or A-B Cables, make sure you have installed the shift cable pin you removed from the OLD bellcrank, into the NEW Bellcrank.

If you are using Bob B. or BCN cables, you will re-use the hardware you removed earlier.

Go to Installing the Fore-Aft Lever

Empty Shifter Housing

Orient Bellcrank 1

Orient Bellcrank 2

Bellcrank in position

Remove Bellcrank Install Fore-Aft Lever

Pin inserted

Snap-Ring installed

Fore-Aft Lever Installation:

This is where you will be happy that you removed the shifter housing from the gearbox.

I assume that everyone will want to install the provided roll-pin.

If NOT, skip the next instructions and go to the

"On the Car Install" portion below.

Off the Car:

1. Clamp the shifter housing in a vice or somewhere secure.

2. Decide how much "shift motion reduction" you want to gain. In picture #1, Hole #2 is the ratio Dave used for his kit. Hole #3 gives the MOST reduction (although

marginally more) and hole #1 is the least. I suggest you use the standard (middle) hole as that should make you very happy. If you really think you will want to go with the highest reduction (hole #3) do the next process twice, once for each hole- #2 and

#3. On retrospect, I don't know why A-B or Bob B. even offered a lesser reduction position, but I felt it necessary to offer every option.

3. Loosely Assemble the NEW Fore-Aft lever on top of the OLD lever as shown in picture #2. Put the bolt through the hole in the NEW lever that you decided would be best. The "U" shaped bracket is temporarily installed with the sloped end toward the weight.

See picture #3 This gets it out of the way of the drill bit. You DO NOT want to drill through the diagonal end of the "U" shaped bracket.

4. Align the levers and using the allen wrench and 15mm wrench, tighten the bolt and nut.

5. Using the drill bit provided, drill through the OLD lever by drilling through the hole circled in picture #1. Try to minimize angle and wobble. See picture #4.

6. If you think you will want to try the "higher" reduction option, disassemble the parts and reassemble using the bolting hole #3 in picture #1. Repeat steps 3 thru 5.

7. When you drill, you will notice the "U" shaped bracket will get drilled at the very edge. This is not a problem. See picture # 5.

8. Disassemble the levers and reverse the "U" shaped bracket so the sloped end faces the pin. See picture #6. Reassemble with the bolt and nut in your desired position and tighten the bolt and nut to 50 lbs/ft torque (doesn't need to be absolute, just tight).

9. Using a pair of pliers or mole-grips, insert the roll pin thru the hole in the NEW Fore- Aft lever by squeezing the pin with the pliers from the "U" shaped bracket to the top of the roll-pin. It will NOT go all the way through the levers as the "U" shaped bracket will provide a stop to keep the pin from ever falling out the bottom. When installed correctly, the pin will stick up quite a bit. In picture #7, the pin is fully inserted,

Reinstalling the Shifter Housing:

Now that you have installed the NEW bellcrank and assembled the Fore-Aft levers, it is time to reinstall the shifter housing.

Check the surface of the gearbox opening where the shifter housing will be placed. It must be clean and free of any oil or grease which would prevent any gasket sealer from sealing.

Check the gasket that is between the shifter housing and the gearbox. It is possible it has remained on the gearbox, but most of the time, it has remained on the shifter housing when

Both lever designs:

(1) Fore-Aft Lever

(2) Loose assembly of parts

(3) "U" shaped Bracket reversed

Installing the Bellcrank Completion I pulled my test housings off.

The gasket needs to be dry (free of oil or any other contaminants and nothing embedded that would prevent even seating on the gearbox.

If the gasket is torn but all of the pieces are still there and all pieces touch each other (there is no part missing), you can gently add a little RTV silicone under the torn section and then give a thin coat around the entire gasket making sure the split section has enough to fill in any mild deformities.

If the gasket has broken and pieces are missing, then you need to completely remove the gasket and thoroughly clean the surface including washing off any oil or grease with spirits or spray brake cleaner. Following the RTV silicone gasket maker's directions, smear a thin but even coat around the entire gasket surface.

The bellcrank will be naturally in the correct position, but you will need to make sure the fore-aft lever is in the middle (3rd/4th gear) position by rotating it through all 3 positions and stopping in the middle.

Align the shifter housing on the gearbox (using any coaxing language or comments necessary) and reinstall the four bolts. Tighten to 14 ft/lbs torque.

Continue to the Completion Section.

On the Car:

1. Decide how much "shift motion reduction" you want to gain. In picture #1, Hole #2 is the ratio Dave used for his kit. Hole #3 gives the MOST reduction (although

marginally more) and hole #1 is the least. I suggest you use the standard (middle) hole as that should make you very happy. On retrospect, I don't know why A-B or Bob B. even offered a lesser reduction position, but I felt it necessary to offer every option.

2. Assemble the levers as pictured in picture #8 (But look at all of the other pictures to be sure you understand how the lever is installed).

3. The "U" shaped bracket faces toward the gearbox. Tighten the bolt and nut to 50 lbs/ft torque (doesn't need to be absolute, just really tight).

Continue to the Completion Section.

(4) Drill thru this hole

(5) "U" shaped Bracket with Drill hole

(6) "U" shaped Bracket NORMAL

(7) Squeezing pin into place

(8) Installing "on car"

Completing the Project!

If you are here, you have hopefully completed installing the new bellcrank and Fore-Aft components on your gearbox.

Please Look at the Identifying your Cables page: Identifying your Cables to make sure you know which instructions to follow

We will start with the Stock SE/S2 and A-B Cables:

A little bit of grease on the pins would be a good idea.

1. Make sure you have installed the shift cable pin from the old bellcrank.

2. The Fore-Aft Lever has a clevis type pin, just like the original pin. You basically put it back together exactly the way it was when you removed the cable.

Reattach the Fore-Aft Cable to the NEW Fore-Aft Lever remembering to put the washers back in the same positions they were in when you detached the cable before reinstalling the snap pin.

A little bit of grease on the pin might be a good idea.

3. Reattach the Crossgate Cable to the shift cable pin remembering to put the washers back in the same positions they were in when you detached the cable. before reinstalling the snap pin.

4. Check the shift lever position and adjust it as desired by following the directions from the M100 Service Manual

We move on to Bob B.'s Cables:

When attaching Bob B.'s cables to the gearbox,

PLEASE do NOT OVERBEND them to line the pins up with the rod ends.

They are within tolerence, but not by much.

Bob B.'s kit doesn't need the shift cable pin from the original bellcrank.

Save all of the pieces removed in case you want to return your car to the original configuration.

1. The Fore-Aft Lever has a pin that is designed to connect into a rod end.

Attach the Fore-Aft Cable to the NEW Fore-Aft Lever by first removing the small silver screw on the top of the pin on the fore-aft lever. Next, slip the rod end onto the pin. It will not go all the way down, so don't try to force it.. Reinstall the small silver screw into the pin and tighten it with the 3.5mm or 9/64 inch allen wrench.

2. Attach the crossgate cable to the bellcrank by reassemblying the parts just as they were when you took them off. See the picture if you can't remember.

3. Go to Adjusting the shift lever position

Finally, BCN Cables:

When attaching BCN's cables to the gearbox,

PLEASE do NOT OVERBEND them to line the pins up with the rod ends.

They are within tolerence, but not by much.

1. These are very similar To Bob B.'s except there are no parts to assemble when connecting the rod end to the bellcrank. The bolt and the other spacers are already part of the rod end. You install it from the top with the washer and nut on the bottom.

Don't forget to tighten the screw after installing the Fore-Aft rod end.

2. Go to Adjusting the shift lever position

A-B / S2Cables attached

Bob B. Crossgate assembled

Bob B. Cables attached

BCN Crossgate assembled

Installing the new Fore-Aft lever Top (First) Page

Adjusting the shift lever position:

1. Check the shift lever position and adjust it as desired by moving the cable's outer jacket at the gearbox abutment bracket by loosening the outer nut (nearest the end of the cable) and using the inner nut to move the cable left or right to get the shift lever as close as you can to your preferred position.

2. If you can't get them exactly where you want them, re-tighten the abutment nuts so the bracket is in the middle of the threaded section. Put the car into third (3rd) gear.

Remove the rod end from the Bellcrank or Fore Aft Lever and move the rod end left or right to put the shift lever where you want it. Compare the bolt coming out of the rod end to determine if the cable is too short or too long.

3. If the cable is too long, loosen the jam nut at the rod end adapter and screw the rod end/adapter

in

4. If the cable is too short, loosen the jam nut at the rod end /adapter and screw it

out

5. If there aren't enough threads to reach your goal, you can accept things as "the best you can do" or, you can tighten the jam nut at the rod end /adapter after making it as long as possible (Remember 5/16" or 8mm of thread connecting the pieces), loosen the adapter that is threaded into the rod end ( Bob B.'s is tightened up tight, BCN's has an additional jam nut you can just loosen) and un-thread the rod end from the adapter to reach your goal. On Bob B.'s system you can fill the void with washers (spring lock washers work best) or add an 8mm "jam nut" and run it up tight to the rod end. On the BCN system, just run the jam nut up tight to the rod end. Make sure you have tightened the adapter securely to the rod end.

Remember to make sure there is at least 5/16 inch (8mm) of thread connecting the rods, rod ends and adapters.

BCN Cables attached