Digital Photography secrets

(1)

(2)

Copyright Information

Important Notice:

This is NOT a free book and cannot be given away in whole or in part.

All Rights Reserved

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any

informational storage or retrieval system without expressed written, dated, and signed permission from the author.

Disclaimer and/or Legal Notices

The information presented herein represents the view of the author. This book is for informational purposes only. While every attempt has been made to verify the information presented here, the author does not assume any responsibility for errors, inaccuracies or omissions. Any slights of organizations or people are unintentional

(3)

Digital cameras are great!

They take a lot of the guesswork out of photography because you can see your results instantly.

Once the novelty wears off though, you may find that the images you take aren’t

any better than the ones you took with your film camera.

So, what went wrong?

Nothing! You have just found out what all professional photographers know already. Most of the time a bad photo is NOT the result of the camera.

Purchasing the latest and greatest camera does not mean your photos will look the same as the professional photos.

What does matter is how you compose your shot, and the extra secrets you employ to place your subject just right, or get the lighting the way you want it. That’s what this book is about. We not only expose the secrets the professional

photographers have been hiding for years, but we’ll show you how to take care of

your digital camera, and explain lots of the more complex camera terms in plain English.

Let’s enter the exciting world of Digital Photography with a look at 21 tips you can use instantly to create stunning photos every single time!

Enjoy!

(4)

The Top 21

Tips To Using A

Digital Camera

(6)

Move in closer

Almost any shot will look better if you take two or three steps closer to your subject. Filling the frame entirely with your subject will make a terrific

difference to your photos.

Alternatively, instead of moving closer, use the Optical or Digital Zoom of your camera to get a close up shot.

When taking shots of family and friends, most people place the subject's full body in the frame, or place head and arms in the shot. Instead, fill the frame with your subject's FACE only - particularly if they are smiling or are in a moment of reflection. Why does this work? With less clutter in the image, there's less to draw the eye away from the main subject of your photo. Also, human faces

(particularly children's faces) are something we all feel pleasure looking at.

If you can't get close enough when you're taking the shot, you can zoom in later using photo editing

software. Crop out everything except the subject's face and see the difference. When using the viewfinder for close shots, be careful of Parallax. Because the viewfinder is not at the same position as the camera's lens, centering the subject in the viewfinder may mean it is not centered for the lens resulting in an off-center final picture. Most digital cameras now come with an inbuilt LCD screen.

There is a lot of unnecessary background in this image

Moving closer shows just the subjects and makes a better image

(7)

Use Optical not Digital Zoom

If you've used a film camera, you'll be used to optical zoom. Optical zoom uses the lens of the camera (the optics) to bring the subject closer. Digital zoom uses clever software to digitally enlarge a portion of the image - thus simulating optical zoom.

So, which is better? Definitely Optical zoom. Here's why.

Digital zoom is not really 'zoom' in the strictest definition of the term. Digital zoom just enlarges the image. Eg it takes a portion of the image and enlarges it back to full size. You lose quality because of the enlargement process so photos that have been taken with digital zoom won't look as good as those without.

See further down in this document for a further explanation of using the zoom.

This shot just uses optical zoom.

This was taken from further away and used the digital zoom of the camera to get closer. Note the

(8)

Place your subject off-center

Rather than placing your main subject in the middle of the screen, place it to one side and ensure something interesting is in the background that fills the

remainder of the image.

This can be especially effective if the background has the same theme. For example, if photographing a child opening a Christmas present, frame them to one side and have the Christmas Tree with unopened presents filling the rest of the image.

There are a few guidelines that can help you place your subject in the frame. See the “Rule of Thirds” in a later chapter.

(9)

Take More, And Erase Shots

The ability to erase your photos is one of the major advantages of a digital camera. You'd be mad not to use this to the fullest extent! Take MANY more shots than you think you need, and then erase those that aren't right.

Every half an hour, go back through your most recent photos erase any that don't make the grade, or you have better versions of.

Because you'll be erasing often you can just keep the 'best of the best'. Erasing often also ensures you don't need a large memory card, as it will not be storing your not-so-perfect images.

If you're always pressed for time, you can either invest in a larger memory card, or copy your images to another storage device like a laptop or card storage unit until a later point.

This is also a huge tip when photographing groups. With such a large number of people, there always seems to be someone blinking, or looking the other way. Having a large number of shots means you can pick the best of them to keep. Be careful that you don’t trade quality for quantity. Don’t take heaps of random

shots and ignore the composition of your photos. Otherwise you’ll have heaps of

shots but no good ones.

(10)

Preset Exposure and Focus

When set to auto, some cameras can take a while to adjust for white balance and focus. This is the 2-3 second delay between when you first push the shutter button, and the shot actually being taken.

If this happens with your camera, try presetting these by holding the shutter release half way down to tell the camera to focus BEFORE you need to take the shot.

Then, keep your finger held half way down until you get the perfect shot, or use your camera's 'lock exposure' feature to keep the exposure settings locked until you find the right time.

Presetting your exposure and focus can REALLY help out when taking shots of children. They tend to not sit in one place waiting for you to adjust your camera, so the best shots are taken when you are prepared for a candid moment - eg when the child is engrossed in a task.

Take care not to preset your exposure to the wrong level by moving to a darker

or lighter subject after your exposure has been preset. Watch the focus as well –

if the subject is moving, preset your focus using an object at the same distance as your subject will be when you want to take the shot.

Presetting the focus works really well for street carnivals with floats moving towards you.

I was only able to take these candid photos because I had previously preset my exposure

(11)

Use A Tripod

Yes, tripods can be a hassle to carry around with you but they help you take great shots in two ways. First, the time you take to get out the tripod, set it up and position the camera on it will slow your picture taking down. This means you'll become more aware of other elements like composition of the image, and lighting. The more focused you are to external conditions, the more likely you will be to take a great shot.

The added advantage is your camera is steadier allowing you to take razor-sharp images -

particularly in low light situations.

An alternative to a tripod is a 'mono pod'. These

only have one leg and don't have the stability of a tripod, but they have a greater stability than just your hands - particularly if you lean them against something. If you do a lot of mountain walking, there are also extendable 'walking canes' (like a ski pole) that are great for helping you walk up steep hills. The top unscrews to reveal a tripod mount underneath turning it into a mono pod.

Tripod Tip : If you have a lightweight camera, you might consider purchasing a

ultra lightweight tripod. These are small, don't weigh much and easily fit in a backpack.

Extra Tip : You don't need to purchase a tripod either! Any horizontal surface

around can make a tripod - arms of chairs, railings, rocks, anything!

No tripod or other suitable surface handy? Holding your camera properly can minimize camera shake. Hold the camera in one hand and use your other hand

to steady the camera’s body from underneath.

Images taken with and without a tripod. In this low light situation, you can plainly see the right image is much clearer. In this instance, I used a

(12)

Unusual Angles

Most photos are shot at eye level. I think this is because traditionally, you needed to have the viewfinder up to your eye to ensure you get everyone in the shot. Because most digital cameras have an inbuilt LCD, you can now take the camera away from your eye and try taking photos from unusual angles. Try tilting the camera left or right to better position your subject in the frame. Try taking the photo from below, or above your subject. Try getting further away or closer.

There's always more than one way to photograph a subject. Using different camera angles can make an otherwise boring image really stand out. The more you practice using different angles, the quicker you'll know what works and what doesn't.

Angle Tip : Lie on the ground and point

your camera towards the sky for an interesting angle to shoot large monuments with.

This image of moth-eaten leaves was taken from directly underneath and allows the viewer to see the sky through the leaves.

This bridge image was taken by holding the camera on the side

of the old bridge to get this unique viewpoint.

(13)

Using Flash During The Day

Interestingly, one of the best uses of your flash is during bright sunlight! I know it sounds strange but it's true. Professional photographers use flash much more often than amateurs. A flash helps to eliminate dark

shadows (for instance under the eyes and chin of faces). It also helps to emphasize your subject.

When you take pictures of subjects with bright light behind them, for example a portrait that is backlit, or a duck swimming in water reflecting the sun, the camera will be fooled by the bright surroundings so the subject appears dark.

By turning flash on, you will fill in the

shadow areas making the picture much more pleasing.

It can also be used to add a sparkle to eyes, and to reduce shadows under the nose when pictures are taken when the sun is bright and high in the sky (eg at midday).

Nature photographers even use flash to ensure the nooks and crannies of flower petals are properly lit – again to reduce shadows.

This image was taken without the flash. Because of the bright sky, the leaves in the foreground were underexposed

and hence very dark.

This is the same shot but taken with the flash. The leaves are now as brightly lit as the sky.

(14)

Use Continuous Shooting

Most digital cameras have a continuous shooting mode, where shots are taken one after the other in rapid succession.

When taking shots, there is often a short delay between when you press your finger on the button, and when the picture is actually taken. This delay may mean your subject has finished their action (eg blowing out

candles on a cake) and you have missed the magic moment.

With Continuous Shooting you can take a sequence of shots and keep just the right one. Continuous Shooting also increases your chances of capturing a candid moment.

Where else can this be useful? Any shots of children or groups will benefit from continuous mode.

These six photos were taken with the continuous mode on my camera. I wanted to get an action shot, so only kept the bottom left image.

(15)

Give Yourself A Theme

Sometimes you need to think creatively to find better shots. Set yourself a theme to give your brain a head start.

For example, on a vacation choose a different color every day and ensure all your shots for that day have that color in that image. Or shoot only shots with triangles in them. Other examples of themes are:

 Fences  Bright Colors  Time  Cliché  Unfinished  Repeating Patterns  Desperation  Bliss

Make sure your theme is simple otherwise you'll be more pre-occupied with getting a shot in line with your theme than the image itself.

Another option for a theme when on vacation is to choose a selection of themes that captures the essence of the

destination. Every area has themes relating to its landscapes, climate, cities, culture etc. Do some research by looking at local postcards or talking to taxi drivers to get an idea of the good picture taking locations.

© Theresa VanderStaay

(16)

Look For Light

Different lighting can change the mood and feel of a shot, or be the difference between a mediocre and stunning shot. The light from the setting sun can produce wonderful lighting for a subject, as does sunlight through leaves. Maybe you see a shaft of light between two large objects such as buildings that can be a perfect backdrop for your subject. Other options for different light sources at night include:

 Neon lights make great night time

subjects. You can silhouette your subjects in front of them, or use them as a subject themselves.

 Use a long exposure on a tripod

to capture streaks of car lights on a road or highway, or other moving lights like on a ferry.

There was a wonderful orange glow to the pool chairs that I had to photograph.

I saw this sunset on the way home from work one night. The red contrasts well with the car tail lights

© Gary McGowan

(17)

Use Red Eye Reduction Flash

Most newer cameras have two flash modes. Standard and Red Eye Reduction.

The Red Eye Reduction flash causes the camera to flash multiple times before taking the shot to get subject's eyes used to the bright light. Use this whenever taking photographs of people looking directly at the camera in low light. Many people don't realize they needed to

use the red-eye flash until they look at their photos after the event. So remember to use red eye reduction whenever taking photos in situations where the following three points are true:

 People looking directly at the camera

 Low Light

 Using your flash.

It is also possible to remove Red Eye with software programs if you don't have the red eye reduction feature on your camera.

The top photo was taken without the Red Eye Reduction flash. The bottom photo was. You can see the obvious red tint in the child’s eyes in the left image.

(18)

Don’t Rely On Flash

We've discussed using your flash a lot until now. There are occasions where using a flash ruins the mood of the event you are photographing.

Why? A flash tends to create harsh subjects and will ruin any natural mood.

So, rather than using the flash whenever your camera tells you to, use available light

whenever possible. In a dark situation, it's often better to open the shutter for a longer period of time to let in more light, or turn on existing lights to illuminate the room than to use the flash.

In daytime and when your subject is inside and near a window, have them face the light and position the camera between the window and your subject. This will allow the sunlight to light your image fully.

This image was taken at night, but because the subject was too close to the back wall, the flash has

illuminated it as well as the subject – ruining the mood of the dark room.

(19)

Use Different Lenses or Filters

There are a wide variety of lenses and filters available to increase the range of options you have for shooting a photograph.

Not all digital cameras come with the ability to attach different lenses and filters. Check the manual for your camera if you are unsure. Some lens types include:

 Wide Angle

 Telephoto

 Fish Eye

Using a Wide Angle lens is good for shooting an indoor room, or shooting a mountain vista. A Telephoto lens can be useful when

you need a close up. Telephoto lenses are basically better optical zooms.

Filters

A polarizing filter can be the most useful filter to own. A Polarizing filter can deepen the color and contrast in the sky, eliminate glare from water or reflective surfaces, or cut through fog like haze. Soft Focus filters generate more diffused looks for romantic, moody, atmospheric, foggy or glowing effects in your shots.

Cooling filters add more blue to an image giving a psychological effect of

calming or serenity in the image. Warming filters cut out excess blue in an overcast sky to add more reddish tones to the image - making your photos look less harsh.

Finally, graduated lenses help for scenes that have a huge difference in light level – eg late in the day when the sky is still bright, but the foreground is in shadow.

© Janet Kinney © Janet Kinney

These two images show the Telephoto lens in action. It acts just like an optical zoom, but generally

(20)

Use Predefined Modes

Most cameras now come with selected modes for taking shots. Eg Landscape, Cloudy Day, Full Sun, Indoors, Night. Changing the mode of your camera to match your situation can result in better shots, as the camera has a better chance of selecting the shutter speed, flash and other exposure choices for a perfect picture.

Look for Reflections

Water is a fantastic element to include in your photos, as the reflections it generates can make your image stand out. Keep a look out for water around your environment when you shoot. Reflections from lights, or splashes of color can really help with the ambience of an image. Rainy days are particularly good as puddles abound!

Extra Tip: Photographing just the reflection and

leaving the subject out is a great way to produce abstract images.

© Iva Villi

Notice how the reflections help make these images special.

(21)

Take Spare Batteries

One of the worst things that can happen when using a Digital Camera is for your battery to run out. Instantly, no more photos! Purchase an extra battery or two

and keep one in your charger so you’ll always have a charged battery around.

Use the LCD Monitor

The LCD monitor will show you what your final image will look like. It won’t be as large in size as your final image, but you will get enough of a feel for the image to know how your shot will turn out. If your camera can show you a half second freeze of your shot just after you have taken it, turn this feature on. The half second will give you enough time to see if the image was well framed, or if you need to take another one. The LCD does tend use more battery, but in our experience it’s better to buy a spare battery and continue using the LCD rather than turning it off.

Don’t add frills

Some manufactures give you a feature that can imprint the current date and time, or the current exposure settings onto your image. Turn these off! You don’t want anything to distract you or your viewer from the subject of your photo. Modern digital cameras record the time and date the shot was taken in a separate part of the

image file anyway (see EXIF in the glossary) so you can always see it.

© Sandesh Gangoda

(22)

Clean your Camera

If your images always turn out all blurry, it may mean your lens needs a clean. Most high end cameras come with threads to which you can attach a SkyLight (or UV) filter. This helps to protect the lens from not only dirt, but scratches. Cheaper cameras don't have threads so remember to cover the lens when not in use and try not to touch it.

Don't clean the lens too often - depending on how often you use your camera, every few weeks or few months is fine. To clean your lens, pick up a lens cleaning kit from your local photo store. Use the lens brush and air blower to remove any loose clinging particles. Place a drop of lens cleaning fluid onto some lens tissue (or a cloth) and wipe the lens clean with a circular motion. Use the blower to dry the lens, or let it dry naturally. Don't use any abrasive solution (such as soap) or wipe too hard on the lens as you can wipe away the special

coatings. There are other techniques – see the section on camera maintenance.

Ensure you protect the other parts of your camera as well. Particularly the Memory Card slot and Battery contacts. If you find they have any corrosion, you can remove it easily with a pencil eraser. Make sure you remove the excess eraser that can get left in the compartment with an air blower. Never ever insert anything into the memory card slot that isn't meant to be there, as you could break the small pins. To keep clean, it's best to leave a memory card in the slot, or at least keep the cover closed.

(23)

The Biggest Photo Tip

We’ve saved the best for last! To take absolutely stunning photos, try to incorporate as many of these tips (as well as the ones contained in the rest of this document) as you can in every single image you create.

I know it can be a hassle at first to remember everything. Sp how do the pro's remember all the tips when photographing?

They practice, practice, practice. And then they practice some more! Like anything in life, the more you practice, the more the activity becomes second nature and the better you get.

But all this practice doesn't need to be time consuming or hard. Remember when you first learned to drive a car? Initially, driving took all of your concentration, but over time, you got used to it and were able to think about other things while driving.

It's the same with photography.

Practice just a few tips at once. Over time, you'll remember more and more techniques. And each time you'll improve your photography. You'll get to the point where, without you even consciously thinking about it, you'll be taking much better images! Your brain will have switched to 'autopilot'.

So here's what I suggest.

The next time you take a camera with you, I recommend you concentrate on just three tips from this book. Concentrate on using JUST those few tips.

The next time, concentrate on another two and add those to the two you have practiced already. Before you know it, you'll be applying all the tips on autopilot!

(24)

Digital verses Film Cameras

People say the traditional film cameras are still better than digital cameras. Is this true?

The short answer is ‘it depends’. Although most digital cameras don’t have the

resolution of their film counterparts, they have other advantages over film

cameras. Let’s look at the advantages of Digital Cameras

Advantages of a Digital Camera

 Access to images is almost instantaneous. There are no chemicals

needed to develop the images.

 You can email the images directly from your camera all around the globe.

 Directly view your photos through the

LCD screen. See immediately if you’ve

taken a good shot.

 The speed of the sensor can be changed

without needing to change the film. This is very useful when light levels drop.

 Take hundreds of pictures without paying anything for film.

 Much more cost effective than film if you shoot lots of photos.

 Retouching on a computer is really easy. Most cameras come with

software you can use to touch up your photos to get that professional look.

 If you want to post-process your images on computer, copying the files

directly from a digital camera is a lot quicker and usually gives a better quality than scanning.

 Instant review of photos, allowing you to know what has worked and what

(25)

There are some disadvantages, however.

 Digital cameras are much more expensive than their film counterparts to

purchase.

 They are more complex. Film cameras are easy to learn and use because

of their simplicity.

 Image quality depends solely on the camera. Even a cheap film camera

can (with a modest lens and high quality film) produce spectacular photos.

 Images need to be stored on memory cards, which

are also very expensive.

 The resolution of digital cameras is still not as good as film. An SLR film camera with modern film can store much more than 8 megapixels of information.

 Film has a color representation and balance that is more pleasing to some

people.

So do you do digital or stay with film? The answer will depend on your needs from a camera, and how much you are willing to spend.

Go with film if:

 You really need quality. A good SLR film camera can produce better

quality shots than a digital camera costing 100 times more. Although Digital is catching up.

 You don’t need Digital’s fancy features. If you’re happy to point and shoot and only want to put your developed photos in an album, stay with film.

(26)

Choose digital if:

 The digital quality is good enough for you

 You need to manipulate your photos in a computer. It’s much easier to

copy the images from a digital machine than to scan a processed negative.

 You rarely need to print your photos. Most people who shoot digitally

never print an image. Instead they produce slideshows on their computer, or create a CD or DVD. We recommend you still have prints produced though – see later in this document.

The important thing is to work out what you use a camera for and choose one that suits your needs and lifestyle. Friends of mine regularly pull out their only camera - an old 1970’s SLR and take fantastic shots with it.

The best tip to taking better photos is not which model you choose, but learning to use your camera properly.

(27)

Better Looking

Pictures

(28)

White Balance

Ever taken an indoor photo where the colors were very mediocre or even have blue, yellow or brown tints? Do your images have dull colors or lack vitality? This is a very common problem and results from a lack of white balance. White balance is unique to digital cameras and is the ability for a camera to adjust the color of an image based on the lighting situation.

White Balance Examples

This image was taken using the camera’s automatic white balance setting. Because there is some white in the image, the camera was able to use the “Sunlight” setting to reproduce the

original colors.

Here, we’ve used a manual white balance set to “Fluorescent”. You can

see the image now looks ‘warmer’ because the camera has compensated for the particular wavelength light from

a fluro light.

The manual white balance is now set to

“Incandescent Bulb” (normal indoors

lighting). The colors in this image now look wrong because the camera is

correcting for a light source that doesn’t exist.

You see, different lighting sources emit color tones the human eye can’t see, but

a digital camera picks up. Sunlight has different hues from indoor tungsten lights which are different again from fluorescent lighting. Photos taken with the wrong

white balance setting won’t show the correct colors when viewed on a screen or

printed out.

Most of the time, the camera can find the correct white balance and automatically correct this problem. Sometimes though, when there is no white in the image (like clouds), it has a hard time.

(29)

setting. The White Balance setting tells the camera which apparent color is actually ‘white’. This allows the camera to correct the color of the image to save a more accurate representation of the scene.

Different cameras represent the different white balances in different ways. Most cameras have a number of options to choose from: Auto, Daylight, White

Fluorescent, Standard Fluorescent and Incandescent. The Auto setting is the one that has trouble if there is no white in the camera. Some more advanced

cameras allow you to manually set a white balance from a white card placed in front of the lens. This is the most accurate way to correct for color imbalance.

Tips for using the correct white balance

 Assess the light source for your image and change the white balance to

the appropriate choice for your shot. Eg if you’re indoors with fluorescent lights, choose the fluorescent setting.

 If you have a number of light sources, try using a few different white balances to ensure you get the best picture.

 If there’s some white around

(eg clouds), tell your camera to take it’s automatic white balance meter reading while pointing at the clouds. This will give the camera’s auto settings something to reference from.

 If you don’t have a white card handy, another option is a white coffee filter. You can also change the white balance using image manipulation programs such as Photoshop.

7

(30)

Filters

Filters add color and flavor to your image and can help to portray your style, or

what you’re trying to communicate.

A filter is usually a thin piece of plastic placed in front of the lens that changes

what the camera sees. Most cheap digital cameras don’t allow you to attach

filters, but most of the time you can improvise the attachment using special kits you can purchase that are designed to allow you to add filters to a cheap camera. You can also use image manipulation programs to simulate filters. Filters fall into a number of different categories, depending on their intended use. Types include:

Plain Color

These simply add a tint to your photograph. These filters aren’t that useful in the Digital world because you can just as easily do the same thing in an image manipulation program such as Photoshop. If you do use one, ensure you take note of the white balance setting, as it may just compensate for the filter and get you back to an image without the filter.

Gradient

Sometimes scenes will have a huge difference in light level. This usually occurs late in the day when the sky is still bright, but the foreground is in shadow. You can set your exposure to capture the sky and clouds, but the foreground will be too dark. Alternatively, you can capture the foreground detail but overexpose the sky. A gradient filter can help here by stopping excess light from the top part of the image, while allowing all light from the bottom half through. This allows the foreground to retain details while at the same time not washing out the sky.

(31)

Neutral-Density

These filters simply reduce the amount of light that gets into the camera. This can help when the scene is overly bright such as a sunny snow scene as it increases the exposure range of your camera. These filters don’t alter the image in any way – they just allow your camera to do a better job of it.

Polarizing

This can be the most useful filter to own. A

Polarizing filter works like Polaroid sunglasses and can deepen the color and contrast in the sky, eliminate glare from water or reflective surfaces, or cut through fog. This filter is very useful for landscape photography.

Special Effects

These filters come with names like Starburst, Diffraction, Fog and Soft Focus. These effects can make a big difference in some circumstances and are difficult to replicate in image manipulation programs. They should be used very sparingly though as they can be over-used.

Cooling/Warming

Cooling filters add more blue to an image giving a psychological effect of calming or serenity in the final image. Warming filters cut out excess blue in an overcast sky to add more reddish tones to the image and make your photos look less harsh.

There are lots of varieties of filters and some can cost quite a bit of money. We recommend you try our image manipulation techniques first and only invest in filters if you shoot lots of photos that can benefit from one of the filters listed above.

Image with no filter

The same image with a warming filter. Notice the snow now has a reddish tinge

(32)

Exposure Value

You can change the mood of your photos by changing your camera’s Exposure

Value (or EV). EV compensation helps to make up for unrealistic scene

depictions that can result from using the automatic settings of your camera. For example, a camera set on automatic will average the light levels throughout the whole scene. A brightly lit scene (eg in direct sunlight) will end up looking darker than it actually was. You can change the EV to compensate. For the brightly lit scene, move your EV setting to +1 or +2 ensure the whole scene is captured as it really looks.

You can also use Exposure Value to add artistic flare to photos.

 To add cheeriness to an image on a dark day, keep increasing your EV

until it looks brighter.

 To make a low light scene (eg sunset) look peaceful, decrease your EV

setting to decrease the light level of the image.

 If you want to create a more reflective mood in a bright setting, decrease the EV. This will darken the scene giving a calming effect.

Different Exposure Values

The same subject with three different Exposure Values. The left image was taken with –2EV, the middle with normal EV and the right with +2EV. Note how the image gets more overexposed the more EV is added.

(33)

Focus

Knowing what focus system your digital camera has and how it works, can help you get more shots in-focus and shoot with added confidence.

Using Auto Focus

Unless you’re using a really high-end digital camera, it’s likely to have only an auto focus option.

Be aware that it’s unlikely you’re going to be able to easily tell if your shot is in focus from looking at the optical viewfinder, or LCD screen. A cheap optical

viewfinder doesn’t actually look through the lens, so you have no way of knowing

what focus the lens sees. On the other hand, the LCD screen is too tiny to tell if the shot is in focus or not.

Since you can’t easily tell if your shot is in focus until later (when you look on your computer), there are a few tips you can use to ensure you have the best chance of an in-focus photo.

 Pre-focus. You can press the shutter button part way down to tell your

camera to focus now, but don’t take the shot. The camera will usually beep at you to let you know it’s completed focusing and is ready to take the photo.

 Use Auto Exposure. Changing the exposure levels can affect focus (see

the section below on Depth of Field) so it’s important to ensure you let the camera decide the exposure level to use.

The two focus systems

Digital cameras come with one of two focussing systems. Knowing the type you have can help you ensure your camera stays in focus.

(34)

Active Focus

Active focus is usually included in lower end cameras and works by using an infrared light beam to measure the distance to the subject and focus accordingly.

How can you tell if you’ve got Active Focus? There will be a red lens similar to the one on your TV remote on the front of the camera. Check your manual to be sure.

This type of focus works great in the dark. On the other hand, you must have a

clear line of sight between the camera and the subject. You can’t take a photo

through leaves, fences etc. You also need to be wary of infrared sources like fires.

Passive Focus

Mid and High end digital cameras use a passive focus system. This works through the lens and is a system that detects contrast in the image. The camera adjusts the lens until it detects the highest level of contrast.

You need enough light to produce contrast, so this method does not work well in the dark. Also watch for scenes with overly bright ambient light.

This focus type works well in the situations where Active Focus fails – eg through leaves or fences because the system uses the image the camera sees to

determine focus.

The red indicator on the top left of this image is the active focus.

(35)

Metering Modes

All digital cameras have an auto-exposure mode to determine the shutter speed and aperture required to expose a scene correctly. To do this, the camera analyzes the amount of light in the entire scene and comes up with an average exposure setting based on the lightest and darkest elements of the image. This works fine for most scenes, but if a particularly bright or dark object is in the frame, the resulting image will be either underexposed or overexposed because the overly bright or dark part has affected the average.

To rectify this, most cameras include a few manual metering modes to give you control over the exposure. There are three basic metering modes found on digital cameras.

Matrix Metering

Matrix metering can also be known as multi-zone, average or pattern metering. This mode is used as the default for most cameras. It works by taking a series of

readings from a ‘matrix’ of different points around the frame and calculating an average exposure for the entire scene. It is effective in most situations because it takes into account the whole image.

Center-weighted

metering

This operates in the same way as matrix metering in that it operates over the whole of the image. The difference is that

Center-weighted metering takes more notice of the center part of the image by giving the

(36)

center readings more weight compared to the edges. This metering type works on the assumption that the subject of your photo will most of the time be in the center of the photo. Because the subject is the key element in the photo, it is the object that should be exposed correctly.

Spot Metering

In this mode, the camera takes a reading from the center of the image only; ignoring the rest of the scene.

This is useful when you want to emphasize a

subject in the center of the frame. A handy trick when you don’t want to put your

main subject in the center of the frame is use the ‘Exposure Lock’ on your

camera if you have one. First, center your subject. Tell your camera to lock the exposure. Then move your subject off-center and take the photo. The camera will remember the exposure setting from the lock and expose your subject correctly.

(37)

(38)

Composition

Great images don’t just come by mastering the technical aspects of the camera.

Attention must be paid to composition as well.

Effective images are those that command attention and communicate some

feeling to an audience. Capturing a ‘feeling’ requires knowing the basic elements

of composition and visual design as well as experimentation and practice.

There are a number of ‘magic’ places of an image that produce a more pleasing

image. Knowing these techniques can be the difference between a mediocre and a stunning image.

(39)

The Rule of Thirds

One of the most popular rules in photography is the “Rule of Thirds”. It is a simple rule that can add dynamism to your photos. Simply, divide the image into thirds both horizontally and vertically. When composing your shot, place

important elements either along these lines, or where the lines intersect – NOT at the centre of the frame. For example, place a subject’s eyes where the top third line is, or place your subject on the place in the image where two lines intersect.

Rule Of Thirds

The subject in this image has been placed on the right vertical ‘thirds’ line, and centred on the intersection between the right and bottom ‘thirds’ lines.

It’s a very simple rule to follow and will result in a nicely balanced, easy on the eye picture. It also helps get rid of the ‘tiny subject and large amount of space’ tendency because you need to position items relative to the edges of the frame. Having said that, the Rule of Thirds is also one of the rules you’ll want to break often! This is fine – the Rule of Thirds is more of a guideline and sometimes you will find a better image when you break the rule.

(40)

The Golden Ratio

The Golden Ratio, or the Golden Mean is found often in nature. The ratio is 1:1.618 and is formed from the following sequence: 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13 etc. Each number after 1 is equal to the sum of the two proceeding numbers. The ratio between any two

numbers gets closer to the Golden Ratio the higher up you go.

The Golden Ratio is very pleasing to the human eye – it may be that we are

genetically programmed to recognize the ratio. Studies have shown that most of the top super models have faces with an abundance of 1:1.618 ratios.

The Golden Triangle

The Golden Triangle is another rule more convenient for photos with diagonal lines. Think of three triangles in your photo and roughly compose three subjects with approximate equal sizes in these triangles.

© Wendy Arthur

The Golden Ratio is found everywhere in nature, as evidenced by this curve (drawn using the golden

ratio) matching the flower.

(41)

Use Diagonals

Placing your subject on a diagonal will almost always make a more dynamic image. Even an imaginary diagonal between two points. Try moving your camera around your subject and look for a pleasing diagonal.

Fill the Frame

One of the most common mistakes is not filling the frame with the subject. If you’re photographing an interesting bird, just shoot the bird and not the trees surrounding a very small bird-looking object in the centre of the image. This also ensures viewers have very little else to distract them from what you intend them to see.

Watch the Background

Once you’ve got your subject composed, take a quick

look at the surrounding area before finalizing the

shot. Make sure Granny doesn’t have a light pole

growing out of her head! If there is something in the background that isn’t pleasing, move until that background element is no longer in the shot, or ask the subject to move slightly. Particularly watch for possible reflections of your flash.

Diagonals - What would normally be an ordinary photo is given life by shooting on a diagonal.

This close-up shot of a birds nest would not have been as effective if we showed the surrounding tree.

An otherwise nice picture is ruined by the reflection from the flash in the

(42)

Use Vertical

Remember you can hold the camera vertically to take images. Waterfalls usually work best with a vertical camera, but you might want to try both horizontal and vertical and find what works best for each situation.

Open a Path

In your picture, anything that moves needs an area to continue that action. Also,

anything with eyes needs some open space to look at. Ensure you leave a blank area where your subject is moving or looking. This makes a much more pleasing image.

Frame your

Picture

The use of a frame can make an otherwise plain picture a pleasing one. You can use any natural or man made object as a frame. A window is a perfect frame, as is a door, arch or fence. Overhanging branches of trees can provide natural frames as can bridges.

A frame will mostly be in the foreground and isolates your main subject to create an interesting composition.

There is open space on the left of the image for the young child to look towards. This

photo also obeys the ‘Rule of Thirds’.

© Mark Bowden

The fort in this image is framed by the tree. This helps the eye focus on the main subject.

(43)

The Elements of Visual Design

There are a number of simple elements of visual design that, once understood, can help to bring powerful emotion to your images.

Lines

A line represents a path between two points. Lines imply movement and show a direction or orientation. Lines can be straight, curved,

vertical or horizontal. A line can also be implied (the brain will fill in the missing points). Eg three equally spaced dots will given the brain the illusion of a triangle. Different lines convey certain feelings.

Horizontal lines imply rest and tranquility

whereas vertical lines imply strength and power. Curved lines imply quiet or sensual feelings. Lines that converge imply depth, scale and distance – eg a roadway or wall.

Actively look for lines in your image to invoke specific feelings.

Shapes

Shapes are closed lines like squares, rectangles, triangles and circles – or more complex shapes

like stars and hexagons. Shapes can be created without lines by using colors or color boundaries in the image. Ensure you balance shapes in the image with equal areas of the image without shapes.

© Brian Smith

Lots of lines in this image. Vertical (implying strength) and curved (sensual).

© Wendy Arthur

This image shows both shapes and form. The color boundaries define the shapes, whereas the differnce on light (eg just above the eye) shows the shadow and form. Additionally, notice how the curved lines invoke a sense of

(44)

Form

Form is the three-dimensional quality of an object caused by light reflecting off it. The reflected light produces some areas of light and some of dark (ie shadows) and the contrast of these imply volume.

The direction of light can also imply a feeling. Backlighting a subject will create a silhouette (an object lacking form which will look two dimensional).

(45)

Color

The use of color is one of the best ways to convey a feeling. Colors effect us emotionally with different colors evoking different emotions.

Analogous Colors are next to each other on the color wheel. Eg Green and Yellow. These colors ‘get along’ and when used in an image have a soothing effect.

Complimentary Colors are opposite one another on the color wheel. Eg Purple and Green. These colors show more contrast when placed next to each other in an image and makes the colors appear more intense.

Cool Colors. These are near the blue end of the spectrum and include violet and green. They are thought of as cool because of our association with snow and ice.

Warm Colors. Yellows, reds and orange. We associate these with the sun and fire.

(46)

You can position different colors in an image to maximize the contrast between them and to provide perspective.

Texture

Texture is the feel, or surface quality of an object. Texture can be implied by the contrast between the elements of an image, or highlighted by placing the light source close to the plane of the object so shadows are more pronounced.

Composition

Composition is very important in creating effective design. So much so, that we dedicate an entire section to composition above.

Dominance

It is possible to influence the order in which visual elements in the frame are observed and how much attention each element receives. This can be done in a number of ways. To make an object seem to dominate the image:

 Make it larger in the image. Larger objects

dominate smaller objects.

 Ensure the color is a warm color rather than a

cool color.

 Position the object in the center of the image as the center is where the

This image shows a fantastic texture. You can feel the crinkly texture of the

leaf just by looking at it.

The younger child has dominance in this image. He is larger in the image, positioned closer to the center, and has a different clothing color than the other child. The eye is naturally drawn

(47)

the point at which they converge.

 Make it different, or exceptional. If most of the elements in your image are similar (either in shape or color), ensure your subject is a complimentary color, or has a different shape from those around it.

Coherence

Parts of an image that are coherent are similar enough in color, form or texture to ‘belong’ to one another. Eg a scene with lots of green leaves implies coherence because they have a similar color and shape.

Be aware that too much similarity can make the image look boring.

Weight

Ensure the elements of your image have a proportional weight, and that weight is balanced in the image. Weight can be expressed by light and dark sections of the image, or by the positions of large and small elements in an image. Ensure you have a similar number of light and dark objects in your image, and have larger objects closer to the center than smaller objects.

(48)

Shapes and Space

Ensure there is an equal amount of space to balance the shapes (objects) in the image. Areas of an image that contain ‘nothing’ are important visual elements that provide a great balance to the subject. Note ‘nothing’ does not mean empty space, but more the lack of a subject.

Rhythm

Rhythm is the regular repeating of elements. Repeating objects are so pleasing to the eye that we like to look at them. Examples of rhythm are bricks in a wall, or glasses lined up. The best rhythm is established when the elements are not perfectly the same size or shape because the brain gets bored with a perfectly symmetrical element and quickly moves on. A row of chairs at the beach is much more interesting when the chairs are not in a completely straight line, or are different sizes and colors. Rhythm can also be found in color changes.

Rhythm Examples

Some great examples of rhythm – the regular repeating of elements. Note in each image the repeated objects aren’t quite the same which makes for an interesting image.

Here’s a great example of shapes and space. The waterfalls are the main subject (being the shapes), but they are offset

(49)

Chaos vs Order

Experienced photographers take images with an order to convey the feeling they want to present. Eg vertical lines to imply power. They also add some chaos to

the image so you aren’t bored when viewing the image. The ‘chaos’ elements

don’t overpower the ordered elements, but provide some obscurity and keep your interest. Nature is full of order, with an overtone of chaos. Eg trees in a forest all grow up (vertical lines), but there are different sized trees and different textures on the bark (chaos).

Chaos vs Order Examples

This image contrasts the order of buildings and a street with the chaos of

different sizes – cobblestones and buildings.

Here’s a lovely example of nature’s chaos and order. The order of the branches contrasted with the chaos of the smaller branches ‘going

everywhere’.

The overall symmetry of this image shows the order, but when you look closer, every petal is

(50)

Emotion

Emotion is one of the most difficult elements to introduce into a photo, and yet is the most rewarding. A technically

perfect image can capture a viewer’s eye

but it’s the emotionally rich image that is more likely to capture the viewer’s heart. How do you capture emotion in your photos? If you are photographing people, then the task is to capture moments in time where the subjects are visibly

expressing themselves, either with a smile, frown or some other outward expression.

If you are in a studio, you will need to coax a mood out of someone. When you are out and about though, it’s more a case of waiting and watching in readiness to capture the moments of expression that can make the average person in the street an interesting subject.

Candid shots can play a large part in adding emotion. Often the subject is unaware (or has forgotten about) the camera so capturing their facial expressions (and thus emotion) easier.

Some tips for capturing emotion

 While most people want to capture the emotion of a great sports play,

often it’s the emotion after a great play that makes the better shot. Take snapshots of the jubilation, smiles and high-fives. Don’t forget about the

look of bewilderment on the opposing team’s faces.

See the emotion on each face in this snapshot taken of a couple taking a photo of themselves. Notice the look of concentration in the man’s face and the slight frown. The woman is obviously unconcerned and is ready to have the

(51)

Special

(52)

Weddings

Weddings can be a great time for photo taking.

 Most couples hire a professional

photographer, so be careful not to interfere with the professional’s work.

 Buy some bridal magazines beforehand

and look at the photos inside for inspiration.

 The bride’s dress can overpower the

camera, as it’s all white. Either the dress looks perfect and the bride’s face is too dark, or her face is perfect and the dress has no details. This can be circumvented by using a reflective surface (like a large white card) to direct extra light towards the

bride’s face. A white wall can achieve the same purpose.

 Use different angles. Try zooming in on a kiss, or tilting the camera.

 At the Church: Some churches don’t allow flash photography; so don’t try

to take any shots in the church. Instead wait until the happy couple pauses on the church front steps. Plan ahead and find a good location before they exit the church.

 Don’t just focus on the bride and groom – take photos of the other guests.

 At the Reception: Events at the reception include cutting the cake, the first dance and the bouquet toss. Plan ahead so you can be at the right place

(53)

Vacations

Some tips for helping with your vacation shots

 Take plenty of memory! Make sure you

have extra memory cards, have another storage facility like a Laptop or media storage unit.

 Start taking pictures before you leave. You

might include your passport and tickets at home, or the suitcases by the

door. These photos won’t make ‘wall hanging, memorable’ shots, but they

will add up to tell a story.

 Candid counts. Images with people are usually more interesting when the

subject is caught in a candid moment. When setting up for a posed shot, try to include something interesting to liven up the shot.

 Make your trip a story. Create a visual diary by photographing landmarks

along your journey such as signposts and street scenes. You can also capture the mood of the day - If you feel bright and happy, shoot some

scenes to capture that feeling. If you’re moved by what you see, ensure

your shots convey that feeling.

 Take shots at meals. This is the time when family is gathered around.

Take advantage of it by taking an image or two of your relatives around the dinner table. Ensure you use the red eye reduction mode of your flash and activate the self timer if you also wish to be in the shot.

 Include the mundane. Most vacation photographers just photograph

landmarks and scenery. Make your vacation shots more interesting by including the mundane – washing the dishes, taking off in the car, setting up camp, waiting for an aeroplane etc.

(54)

 Consider photographing signposts so you know where the next few shots

were taken. You don’t need to print these, but they make a very handy

reference later on!

 Set the scene. Shoot local recognizable landmarks first so you will know

later on where you took that more unusual shot. I usually shoot the

landmark with a ‘conventional’ (ordinary and obvious) shot and then move

in closer for the more unusual shots or extra detail. Another advantage is I then have the conventional shot to use if none of the others live up to standard.

Setting the Scene

Setting the scene. The first is the ‘recognizable’ shot of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The second two shows the same bridge but from different angles. These are the more unusual shots. If they didn’t work out, we still had the original.

 Make color a theme. Color usually plays a very important part of setting a

scene. Think of the deep terracotta of Mediterranean rooftops, the

whitewashed walls of greek chapels, or the deep blue of a tropical ocean. All provide a wonderful common ground for your photos.

 Look for Detail. Visiting somewhere new gives your eyes a treat by seeing

different landmarks, shapes, patterns and colors than we are used to.

Take advantage of this by using your camera’s zoom to hone in on detail

you might otherwise miss.

(55)

your camera, use it to shoot local flora or wildlife.

 Use the cool morning or evening light to

take most of your shots. In the heat of the day, your images will be bright and

featureless.

And for the more adventurous….

Capture the ‘Sense of Place’. When we first visit a destination, our senses take in an enormous amount of data including intoxicating smells from food stalls,

aromas of the flower vendors or the sweet cool wind on our cheek from the

scenic lookout. Our brains can’t handle that much information, so we tend to

concentrate on the most important or attractive detail to us at the time – and point our camera in that direction.

We try to capture the moment, but miss the important visual clues that will assist the viewer of the photo to interpret our experience. Here are some tips to ensure your travel photos capture the emotion of the moment.

What made you stop?

What was it that made you take an image in the first place? Was it the different and colorful costumes, the light breaking from the storm clouds, or the textures of sand dunes in the early

morning light? What excited you? Which visual elements made it different from other places – those that make the destination recognizable from travel books and postcards?

Once you identify the main element, you can work to reduce the amount of extra and unwanted elements in your images that distract from your main theme. For

(56)

instance, when vacationing in Malta, the main element you may want to convey could be the striking earthly colors of the temples.

A good technique to employ is to use an adjective to describe the scene. For

example, “The isolated mountain monastery”. Here, you would need to show the

vast mountain scenery with a smaller, distant monastery that would draw the viewer’s eyes to seek and rest on it. You cannot allow other buildings to detract from the idea and you must have plenty of mountain scenery to give the sense of isolation. A close up of the monastery would no longer fit your description and you would need another adjective.

Technique for Visualisation

…

Think of an adjective

This scene describes a “Secluded Costal Town”. Only one boat sails on the harbour to illustrate the adjective in the description.

This technique is useful in helping you focus on what it is you are trying to communicate and what elements in the image would help you do this. Once you have decided your main subject, look for other elements that will help your

viewer’s eyes to the center of interest in the image. This could include a walkway; winding road; river; row of fence posts or even a shaft of light.

This pre-visualisation of the potential of an image at the point of capture is a powerful creative tool, so if you can master it, it can often make the difference between an average image and a show stopper.

(57)

Photographing Children

Children make a wonderful subject. Here are some tips for ensuring photos of children are even more memorable.

 Meet them eye-to-eye. Bring yourself down to the

child’s level – even if you need to crouch down. This will give your shots a ‘kids eye view’ and won’t distort their image (as taking the shot from above does). They will interact with you more and give great eye contact. Even shooting with your camera on the ground works well.

 Capture natural expressions. While posed shots

are great, often better results can be gained by

capturing an image when their thoughts are preoccupied with something else – eg while at play. You’ll capture their faces enjoying the moment rather than thinking about the camera.

 Surprise toys, comics or food can divert your child’s attention away from the photographer.

 It helps to keep yourself invisible when creating shots with natural expressions. One way to do this is to use a zoom lens and position yourself some distance away. If you leave the children with something to do before disappearing into the background, they will quickly become engrossed.

 Familiarity ensures success. Children who have grown up having their

photo taken will be a lot less likely to freeze or show off in front of a camera. Start early and make photo taking a part of every day out.

(58)

 Familiarity with the surroundings also works. Ensure they have some other siblings and familiar faces around to help create the right atmosphere. This is particularly useful for shy little ones.

 Consider hiring a costume for your child subjects. They’ll have fun dressing up and you’ll get a great shot. Props can also liven up a shot.

 A good tip for candid photography is pressing the shutter at the right time. Keep looking at the LCD and wait patiently for a great photo to occur.

 Look at children’s clothing catalogs or magazines for inspiration and picture ideas.

 Children grow up quickly. Record their growth from toddler to child to

young adult by taking a family photo every year around the same time –

(59)

Night Scenes

There are lots of ways to enhance night photography. Just because the sun has

gone down doesn’t mean you need to stop taking photos! Night offers some of

the most intriguing photo opportunities because they offer a fantastic blend of color and excitement. Some of the best night shots are taken during the early evening when a little overall illumination comes from the darkening sky.

Night Shot Examples

All three photos were shot without a flash, with a tripod and with a fairly long exposure time.

Ideas for night photos

 Capture silhouettes against a colorful sky. Make sure your silhouettes are

easily recognizable and ensure your flash is off.

 Neon lights make great night time subjects. You can silhouette your

subjects in front of them, or use them as a subject themselves.

 Use a long exposure on a tripod to capture streaks of car lights on a road

or highway, or other moving lights like on a ferry.

 Carnivals and Amusement parks have lots of night lights. The rides offer

you the advantage of using different angles (eg taking a shot from the top of a Ferris wheel), or trying some motion effects.

(60)

 Bridges and fountains are wonderful subjects at night. Use a longer

exposure to ensure the far away lights from a bridge are recorded or to get a blurry effect from a water fountain.

 Sparklers and light sticks can be a great source of artistic fun. Have your subject stay as still as possible while waving a sparkler around. The

resulting image will show the person and a line of light emanating from the end of the sparkler. Alternatively, have your subject stand still and have other helpers run around them with sparklers.

Tips for shooting at night or in low light

 Don’t use a flash! A flash can drown out a lot of subtle lighting and lead to a washed out image. Try taking the shot without a flash.

 Try long exposure times. Long exposures allow for streaking shots.

 Use a tripod or other camera support. Because you’re shooting at lower

exposure speeds, the shutter is open for longer. Thus, you must keep the camera steady. A tripod is best for this, but anything that can support the camera like a rock, table or even drinking cup will work.

 If shooting stars or a cityscape, try the ‘backlight’ setting on your camera to expose the shot for longer than the automatic settings. Exposure Value compensation can also be used here.

 Use the flash to capture your foreground subject, but use a long exposure

to fill in the details in the background. You’re not trying to light the whole

scene with the flash – just your foreground. Remember to use the Red

Eye flash setting if your subject is a person.

Digital Photography secrets

Copyright Information

Important Notice:

All Rights Reserved

Disclaimer and/or Legal Notices

Digital cameras are great!

So, what went wrong?

Table of Contents

The Top 21

Tips To Using A

Digital Camera

Move in closer

Use Optical not Digital Zoom

Place your subject off-center

Take More, And Erase Shots

Preset Exposure and Focus

Use A Tripod

Unusual Angles

Using Flash During The Day

Use Continuous Shooting

Give Yourself A Theme

Look For Light

Use Red Eye Reduction Flash

Don’t Rely On Flash

Use Different Lenses or Filters

Filters

Use Predefined Modes

Look for Reflections

Take Spare Batteries

Use the LCD Monitor

Don’t add frills

Clean your Camera

The Biggest Photo Tip

Digital verses Film Cameras

Advantages of a Digital Camera

There are some disadvantages, however.

Go with film if:

Choose digital if:

Better Looking

Pictures

White Balance

White Balance Examples

Tips for using the correct white balance

Filters

Plain Color

Gradient

Neutral-Density

Polarizing

Special Effects

Cooling/Warming

Exposure Value

Different Exposure Values

Focus

Using Auto Focus

The two focus systems

Active Focus

Passive Focus

Metering Modes

Matrix Metering

Center-weighted

metering

Spot Metering

Composition

The Rule of Thirds

Rule Of Thirds

The Golden Ratio

The Golden Triangle

Use Diagonals

Fill the Frame

Watch the Background

Use Vertical

Open a Path

Frame your

Picture

The Elements of Visual Design

Lines

Shapes

Form

Color

Texture