Lighting Guide Joe Craige

(1)

An

Portrait

Lighting Guide

J

oe

_Craig

Photography

(2)

II

have been a photographer for 25

years and throughout that time I have

specialised in portrait photography.

In this guide I want

In this guide I want to share my simple

to share my simple

techniques

techniques for

for better

better portraits.

portraits. These

These

examples are taken from ‘The Portrait

Video’ and show what can be aachieved

using two, three and four Elinchrom flash units with

using two, three and four Elinchrom flash units with a variety of

a variety of

dif

different accessor

ferent accessories.

ies.

There are two elements to photography, the scientific and the artistic.

Because photography is a science it is possible to standardise your

shooting proced

shooting procedure so

ure so that you ac

that you achieve consistent

hieve consistent results.

results. Although

Although

today’s negative films (and I shoot over 90%

today’s negative films (and I shoot over 90% of my work on colour

of my work on colour

negative stock) a

negative stock) are very flexible

re very flexible and forgiving,

and forgiving, an accurately e

an accurately exposed

xposed

negative will always produce the best possible picture.

Unlike the human eye film is not

Unlike the human eye film is not able to see such a wide range of light

able to see such a wide range of light

levels at the

levels at the same time.

same time. In portraiture you

In portraiture you should always aim

should always aim for

for

well exposed highlights, without any loss of detail, and

well exposed highlights, without any loss of detail, and at the same

at the same

time retain as much

time retain as much detail as possible in

detail as possible in the shadows.

the shadows. TTo achieve this

o achieve this

the contrast r

the contrast range of each

ange of each shot must be

shot must be carefully controlled.

carefully controlled. In most

In most

of the examples shown in this guide I have

of the examples shown in this guide I have tried to use a 3:1 lighting

tried to use a 3:1 lighting

ratio.

ratio. In simple term

In simple terms this is

s this is achieved by hav

achieved by having a 1 f-stop

ing a 1 f-stop diff

difference

erence

between the

between the Main Light and

Main Light and the Fill Light.

the Fill Light. This makes

This makes the Main light

the Main light

twice as br

twice as bright as the

ight as the Fill Light.

Fill Light. The highlight are

The highlight areas will rece

as will receive light

ive light

from both the Main Light (which will

from both the Main Light (which will have a value of ‘2x’) as well

have a value of ‘2x’) as well as

as

the Fill Light (a value of

the Fill Light (a value of ‘1x’) Therefore the highlight has received 3x

‘1x’) Therefore the highlight has received 3x

the level of light whilst the

the level of light whilst the shadow area has only received 1x hence 3:1

shadow area has only received 1x hence 3:1

ratio.

ratio. This will res

This will result in an e

ult in an easy to print

asy to print negative which re

negative which retains detail

tains detail

in both the highlight and shadow areas.

Perfect Portraits

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oe

Craig

Good Shooting

The other

The other technical aspect is

technical aspect is focusing.

focusing. Although it sounds

Although it sounds obvious,

obvious,

accurate focusing

accurate focusing has to be

has to be practised.

practised. Always put the

Always put the plane of focus

plane of focus

on the eyes of the person you are shooting and

on the eyes of the person you are shooting and you can’t go far

you can’t go far

wrong.

Good lighting is very important, without light

Good lighting is very important, without light the photograph cannot

the photograph cannot

exist and it’s important that lights are

exist and it’s important that lights are placed to create a natural

placed to create a natural

looking effect.

looking effect. Unlike the

Unlike the human eye,

human eye, the camera

the camera does not

does not have the

have the

advantage of two eyes to see in three dimensions, instead it

advantage of two eyes to see in three dimensions, instead it relies on

relies on

the light and shade that the

the light and shade that the lights create to indicate depth and dimen-

lights create to indicate depth and

dimen-sion.

sion. When lighting a

When lighting a portrait always try

portrait always try and put dimension

and put dimension ito the

ito the

picture, too often the subjects appear flat.

Once the science of photography is second nature you are free to

concentrate on your subject, building up a special relationship that

can be s

can be seen in the

een in the final image.

final image. When I take

When I take a portrait the

a portrait the subject is

subject is

always more

always more important than the

important than the lighting.

lighting. Although I shoot

Although I shoot more than

more than

5000 rolls of film every year the excitement of portrait

5000 rolls of film every year the excitement of portrait photography

photography

is for me

is for me as stron

as strong as ever

g as ever..

I hope that you will find this booklet full of useful tips

and suggestions and that it inspires you to t

and suggestions and that it inspires you to take more

ake more

and better portraits.

J

(4)

Umbrellas

This is trad

This is traditional umbrella itional umbrella lighting. lighting. The two light The two light sourcessources are placed in front of the model and fitted

are placed in front of the model and fitted with umbrellas.with umbrellas. To control the contrast ratio the Main Light will be

To control the contrast ratio the Main Light will be one f-stopone f-stop brighter than the

brighter than the Fill Light. Fill Light. The power of the MThe power of the Main Light ain Light (bounced against the Silver Umbrella), is set

(bounced against the Silver Umbrella), is set one f-stop aboveone f-stop above that of the Fill

that of the Fill Light (shooting through the translucent Light (shooting through the translucent umbrella)

umbrella). . The camera The camera aperture will be aperture will be 1/2 f-stop above 1/2 f-stop above thethe output of the

output of the Main Light by Main Light by itself. itself. If the Fill Light is If the Fill Light is f8 andf8 and the Main Light is f11 then

the Main Light is f11 then the camera should be set to f11.5.the camera should be set to f11.5.

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T h h i i s s m m e eaa s s u u r r e e s saa

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c c c u u r raa t t e e l l y y h h o o w w m m u u c c h h

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l i igg h h t t i i s s f faa l l l l i i n ngg o o

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f

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i n ndd e e p p e e n ndd e e n n t t l l y y

.

. T T h h e e m m e e t t e e r r s s

h

h o o u u l ldd b b e e

p

p o o i i n n t t e edd t t o o w waa r r

d

d s s t t h h e e c caa m m e e r raa

f

f o o r r aa

f

f i i n naa l l c c h h e e c c k k o o f f t t h h e e

e

e f f f f e e c c t t o o f f aa l l l l l l i igg h h t t s s

b

b e e f f o o r r e e t t h h e e s s h h o o t t i i s s t taa

k k e e n n ” ” Background Background Subject Subject EL250 EL250 Translucent Translucent Umbrella Umbrella EL250 EL250 Silver Silver Umbrella Umbrella Camera Camera

(5)

T

his picture has also been his picture has also been takentaken using just two umbrellas and it using just two umbrellas and it makes an exceptionally good makes an exceptionally good portrait.

portrait. The MThe Main Light ain Light is fittedis fitted once again with a

once again with a silver umbrella.silver umbrella. The Fill Light is fitted with a

The Fill Light is fitted with a Translucent Umbrell

Translucent Umbrella and a and placedplaced opposite the Main Light. This acts as opposite the Main Light. This acts as a hair light,

a hair light, separating the modelseparating the model from the

from the backgroubackground. nd. Finally aFinally a silver reflector panel illuminates the silver reflector panel illuminates the shadows to reduce the overall

shadows to reduce the overall contrast. contrast. Background Background Subject Subject EL 250 EL 250 Silver Silver Umbrella

Umbrella _Camera_Camera EL 250 EL 250 Translucent Translucent Umbrella Umbrella Silver Silver Reflector Reflector Panel Panel

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EL250 EL250 Translucent Translucent Umbrella Umbrella Subject Subject W W h h i i t t e e W W a a l l l l _EL250_EL250 Translucent Translucent Umbrella Umbrella Camera Camera EL250 EL250 32˚ Honeycomb 32˚ Honeycomb Bookcase Bookcase Desk Desk

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n ngg i inn aa ssmmaa l l l l rroooomm I I a

a l l w waa y yss t trr y y t too t taakk

e e a add v vaann t taaggee oo f f t t h hee s

s u urrrroo u unndd i inngg w waa l l l lss..

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Trraannss l l u ucceenn t t u umm b brree l l l laass w w i i l l l l sspp

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l i igg h h t taarroo u unndd t t h heerroooommrraa i iss i inn

g g t t h hee o o v veerraa l l l l l l i igg h h t t l lee v vee l lss.. MMaakkee s s u urree t

t h haa t t t t h heeccoo l loo u urroo f f t t h hee w waa l l l l i issnnee u u -

- t

trraa l l oorr i i t t ccoo u u l ldd h haa

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peecc t teeddee f f f f eecc t toonn t t h hee f f i inn

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In this shot a third head, fitt

In this shot a third head, fitted with a Honeycombed with a Honeycomb Grid is

Grid is used as used as a Hair a Hair Light. Light. This accentuates theThis accentuates the subject’s hair and helps to separate the subject f subject’s hair and helps to separate the subject fromrom the background.

the background. Although they Although they are both are both placed onplaced on the same side of the subject the other two lights f the same side of the subject the other two lights fiitediited with their umbrellas still give a Main Light and Fill with their umbrellas still give a Main Light and Fill Light effect and their output

Light effect and their output levels should be set levels should be set accordingly.

accordingly.

Umbrellas

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Softboxes

In these pictures the lighting is in In these pictures the lighting is in layers.

layers. The first The first layer pulayer puts light ants light andd detail into the

detail into the backgrounbackground by lightingd by lighting from the

from the side. side. The same The same light also light also actsacts as a Hair

as a Hair Light separating the subjectsLight separating the subjects from the

from the background. background. The The Main Light Main Light isis placed slightly in front of the subjects placed slightly in front of the subjects and lights

and lights across across them. them. This maintaThis maintainsins a three

a three dimesional dimesional appearancappearance. e. TheThe Translucen

Translucent Umbrella acts as t Umbrella acts as the Fillthe Fill Light and the silver reflector panel fills Light and the silver reflector panel fills the shad

the shadow area. ow area. Once agaOnce again Mainin Main Light and Fill Light are set 1

Light and Fill Light are set 1 f-stopf-stop apart.

apart. The bacThe background kground light is selight is set tot to the same level as the Main Light. the same level as the Main Light.

EL 250 EL 250 70cm Softbox 70cm Softbox EL 250 EL 250 100cm Softbox 100cm Softbox Wall Hanging Wall Hanging Subjects Subjects Silver Silver Reflector Reflector Panel Panel Camera Camera EL250 EL250 Translucent Translucent Umbrella Umbrella

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A A l l w waa y yss l looookk f f oorroo t t h heerrpp i icc - - t

t u urreess w w h heenn y yoo u uaarreess h h

o

ooo t t -

- i

inngg.. H Heerree I I ’ ’ v vee t taakkee

n

n t t w woo

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goooodd i inndd i i v v i idd u uaa l lppoorr

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trraa i i t tss

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ass w wee l l l l aass aa ss t trr i i

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k i inngg i immaaggee oo f f b boo t t h h

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mooddee l lss t tooggee t t h heerr

.

Once again, two softboxes were used, but in this Once again, two softboxes were used, but in this example they were combined to act together as a example they were combined to act together as a Main Light.

Main Light. The smaller The smaller 70cm Softbox 70cm Softbox was placedwas placed on the floor with the larger 100cm Softbox above it. on the floor with the larger 100cm Softbox above it. This ensures that the model nearest to the camera is This ensures that the model nearest to the camera is evenly lit with no shadows below her chin.

evenly lit with no shadows below her chin.

Since the model in the background is out of focus Since the model in the background is out of focus she is illuminated only by the light of

she is illuminated only by the light of the Honey-the Honey-comb Grid to give

comb Grid to give a much harder, more contrastya much harder, more contrasty effect.

effect. The flash uThe flash units are adjunits are adjusted so thasted so that the samet the same level of light is

level of light is falling on both falling on both models. models. The studioThe studio wall to the left of the models is a lighter tone and wall to the left of the models is a lighter tone and this helps to

this helps to reduce the overall contrast.reduce the overall contrast.

Softboxes

Subject Subject Subject Subject Background Background Camera

Camera EL 500 aboveEL 500 above

70cm Softbox 70cm Softbox EL 500 on floor EL 500 on floor 70cm Softbox 70cm Softbox EL 500 EL 500 16˚ Honeycomb 16˚ Honeycomb

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Out of the stud

Out of the studio and into io and into the home. the home. Here we Here we wantedwanted to create a natural looking picture by using a 100cm to create a natural looking picture by using a 100cm Softbox to recreate the light coming through a

Softbox to recreate the light coming through a window.

window. Two other Two other light sources light sources were also were also used.used. A Fill light f

A Fill light fitted with a Translucent Umbrella helpeditted with a Translucent Umbrella helped to lighten the

to lighten the shadows.shadows. A third light was fitted

A third light was fitted with a 16˚ Honeycomb waswith a 16˚ Honeycomb was placed behind the subject. This light not only helps to placed behind the subject. This light not only helps to separate the subject from the background but also separate the subject from the background but also illuminates the items on the piano which would illuminates the items on the piano which would otherwise be in darkness. otherwise be in darkness. Subject Subject EL 250 EL 250 16˚ Honeycomb 16˚ Honeycomb EL 250 EL 250 Translucent Translucent Umbrella Umbrella Camera Camera EL 500EL 500100cm100cm Softbox Softbox Wall Wall W W i i n n d d o o _w_w

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Light Banks

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A s s i i n ngg l l e e

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s o o u u r r c c e e i i s s o o n n e e o o f f

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t h h e e

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t s s t t o o

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u s s e e i i t t

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v e e r r y y c c l l o o s s e e t t o o y y o o u u

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r s s u u b b j j e e c c t t,, t t h haa

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waa y y t t h h e e l l i igg h h t t

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i s saa t t i i t t s s s s o o f f t t e e s s t t

a

a n ndd

m

m o o s s t t f f l laa t t t t e e r r i i n n

g

g..

This portrait is lit with a

This portrait is lit with a single light single light source,

source, the Elinchrthe Elinchrom Octa. om Octa. It givesIt gives a smooth even light

a smooth even light which replicateswhich replicates the light

the light from a wfrom a window. indow. A silver A silver reflector is used just to lighten the reflector is used just to lighten the shadow area.

shadow area.

By adjusting the angle of the Octa it By adjusting the angle of the Octa it is possible to lighten or darken the is possible to lighten or darken the background to the precise shooting background to the precise shooting requiremen

requirements. ts. The Octa The Octa is 1.75m is 1.75m inin diameter, perfect for full length diameter, perfect for full length portraits. portraits. EL 500 EL 500 Octa Octa Lite Bank Lite Bank Silver Silver Reflector Reflector Panel Panel Camera Camera Subject Subject Background Background

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Four lights were used to cr

Four lights were used to create this picture. eate this picture. The Main Light is an OctaThe Main Light is an Octa which gives a

which gives a soft overall illumination. soft overall illumination. A Square 44 A Square 44 Reflector withReflector with its 32˚ Honeycomb Grid

its 32˚ Honeycomb Grid was used as a Hwas used as a Hair Light. air Light. A 100cm Softbox A 100cm Softbox acted as a Fill Light.

acted as a Fill Light.

To get the texture onto the stonework, and to imitate the effect of the To get the texture onto the stonework, and to imitate the effect of the lamp, a second 32˚ Honeycomb was fitted to

lamp, a second 32˚ Honeycomb was fitted to a flash unit and pointeda flash unit and pointed up against the wall.

up against the wall. This gives the whole picture This gives the whole picture a third dimensiona third dimension but still looks perfectly natural.

but still looks perfectly natural.

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“ AA_l_l_w_w_a_a_y_y_s_s p

p o o s s e e p p e e o o p p l l e e t

t o o g g e e t t h h e e r r .. _E_E_v_v_e_e_r_r_y_y b b o o d d y y w

w a a n n t t s s _t_t_o_o_s_s_e_e_e_e a a _f_f_a_a_m_m_-_- i

i l l y y _c_c_l_l_o_o_s_s_e_e_a_a n

n d d _t_t_o_o_g_g_e_e_t_t_h_h e

e r r .. _Y_Y_o_o_u_u_c_c a a n n s

s e e e e _h_h_o_o_w_w_m_m u

u c c h h _t_t_h_h_i_i_s_s_l_l_i_i_t_t t

t l l e e g g i i r r l l l l o o v v e e s s h

h e e r r _D_D_a_a_d_d_d_d_y_y j

j u u s s t t b b y y _h_h_e_e_r_r_p_p_o_o s s e e ! ! ” ” Camera Camera EL500 EL500 Octa Octa Lite bank Lite bank Subjects Subjects Fireplace Fireplace Stone Wall Stone Wall EL250 EL250 16˚ Honeycomb 16˚ Honeycomb EL250 EL250 Square 44 Square 44 EL500 EL500 100cm 100cm Softbox Softbox

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For this large set six lights and a

For this large set six lights and a variety of different variety of different accessories were used.

accessories were used. The Main The Main Light is once Light is once againagain an Octa.

an Octa. On the righOn the right of the set twt of the set two soft light soo soft light sourcesurces were used either side of the column to give a natural were used either side of the column to give a natural feel and to make sure the background had both

feel and to make sure the background had both texture and dime

texture and dimension. nsion. The Square 4The Square 44 Reflector was4 Reflector was used as a hair light and for extra

used as a hair light and for extra effect a Higheffect a High Performanc

Performance Reflector was shot te Reflector was shot through the screen tohrough the screen to bring out its

bring out its detail. detail. Finally a 70Finally a 70cm Softbox is cm Softbox is usedused as a Fill Light and placed at

as a Fill Light and placed at the front of the set.the front of the set.

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“ “CCoonnssiiddeerrlliigghhttiinnggtthheewwhhoollee s seettaannddnnoott j juussttyyoouurrssuubb j jeecctt.. T Thhaatt wwiillll lleeaavvee tthhee ssuubb j jeecctt f f rreeee ttoo mmoovvee aarroouunndd aanndd g giivvee yyoouu momorree sshhoooottiinngg ppoossssiibbiilliittiieess.. II u usseeddtthhiisssseettttoosshhoooottf f uulllllleennggtthh,,33//44aanndd H Heeaadd aanndd SShhoouullddeerr shshoottss f f rroomm aa vvaarrii- -e ettyyoof f aanngglleess..””

Using More Lights

EL250 EL250 Square 44 Reflector Square 44 Reflector EL250 EL250 Square 44 Square 44 Reflector Reflector EL500 EL500 100cm Softbox 100cm Softbox EL250 EL250 70cm Softbox 70cm Softbox EL500 EL500 Octa Octa Lite Bank Lite Bank EL250 EL250 High High Performance Performance Reflector Reflector Column Column Subject Subject Camera Camera

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“ “LLiigghhtt aanndd ppoossee tthhee wwhhoollee b booddyy aanndd nnoott j juusstt tthhee bbiitt y yoouu’’rreesshhoooottiinngg.. TThhaattwwiillll m maakkee aallll yoyouurr ppoosseess llooookk nnaattuurraall aanndd n noott ccoonnttrriivveedd””

A classic High Key

A classic High Key lighting set up. lighting set up. The subject has detailThe subject has detail but the background is pu

but the background is pure white. re white. The secret is to get theThe secret is to get the background evenly lit and overexposed by no more

background evenly lit and overexposed by no more than 1than 1 f-stop.

f-stop. This will remove anThis will remove any detail, if it y detail, if it is too bright it is too bright it will affect the edges of the subject

will affect the edges of the subject as the light from theas the light from the background flares

background flares forwards. forwards. These lights These lights must bemust be positioned accurately so that they don’t spill onto the positioned accurately so that they don’t spill onto the subject.

subject. Once the bacOnce the background level has kground level has been set thebeen set the subject can be lit.

subject can be lit. If the background is set If the background is set to f16 then theto f16 then the subject should be lit at f11 which

subject should be lit at f11 which will also be the camerawill also be the camera aperture.

aperture. Make sure that Make sure that the lights illuminating the lights illuminating thethe background are not allowed to spill light onto the subject. background are not allowed to spill light onto the subject.

EL500 EL500 Square 44 Square 44 EL500 EL500 100cm 100cm Softbox Softbox EL500 EL500 Octa Octa Lite Bank Lite Bank Subject Subject Camera Camera EL250 EL250 Wide Angle Wide Angle Reflector Reflector EL250 EL250 Wide Angle Wide Angle Reflector Reflector

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Compacts

The Standard Elinchrom compact flash

units are small, lightweight and easy

units are small, lightweight and easy to

to

use.

use. They fe

They feature fast

ature fast recycling

recycling and offer

and offer

exceptionally short flash durations.

These units offer a potent combination of speed and

convenience.

convenience. They have

They have an extended

an extended power range

power range

and are adjus

and are adjustable over

table over 5 f-stops.

5 f-stops. The Elinchrom

The Elinchrom

Advanced Compacts are characterised by their fast

recycling, rapid flash durations and overall

excep-tional performance.

tional performance.

This unit incorporates the latest advances in

electronic technology and is the most advanced

compact flash unit

compact flash unit in the World.

in the World. It has a 5

It has a 5 f-stop

f-stop

range and the power is

range and the power is controlled in precise

controlled in precise

steps of

steps of 1/10th f-stop.

1/10th f-stop. Full remote

Full remote control and

control and

dual voltage operation are amongst the many

features of this exciting new unit.

Elinchrom produce a fine range of studio

powerpacks

powerpacks and L

and Lampheads.

ampheads. Both

Both the

the

Classic, the Combi and the advanced

Micro AS series Powerpacks are used by

top photogr

top photographers the W

aphers the World over

orld over..

Micro Compact

Studio Systems

Advanced Compacts

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Honeycombs

Softboxes

Light Banks

A honeycomb

A honeycomb creates a

creates a pool of

pool of light.

light. The

The

larger the degree of coverage the

larger the degree of coverage the larger the

larger the

pool of

pool of light.

light. Use for

Use for Hair lights

Hair lights in portraiture

in portraiture

or wherever controlled spots of light are needed.

Umbrellas are the simplest way to make the

Umbrellas are the simplest way to make the light

light

source larger and

source larger and therefore softe

therefore softerr.

. Different materials

Different materials

work in

work in different ways.

different ways. Silver is

Silver is the most

the most ef

efficient

ficient

and produces

and produces a high cont

a high contrast result.

rast result. White create

White createss

less contrast and

less contrast and can appear softer

can appear softer.

. Translucent can

Translucent can

be reflected or used to shoot through allowing the

be reflected or used to shoot through allowing the light

light

source to be placed nearer to

source to be placed nearer to the subject.

the subject.

A softbox, like an umbrella produces a

A softbox, like an umbrella produces a soft light source.

soft light source.

Unlike an umbrella the softbox is much

Unlike an umbrella the softbox is much more controlla-

more

controlla-ble.

ble. The direction o

The direction of the light is

f the light is more specific

more specific and it can

and it can

be used with m

be used with much greater subtlety

uch greater subtlety.

. The uniform f

The uniform front

ront

diffuser also gives more acceptable reflective highlights

than an umbrella.

These huge softboxes create the ultimate portrait light.

Their size allows them to be used ef

Their size allows them to be used effectively for full

fectively for full

length shots

length shots or larger

or larger groups.

groups. The unique

The unique Elinchrom

Elinchrom

design gives a front surface that varies by as little as 3/

10th f-stop anywhere on the surface, allowing even

10th f-stop anywhere on the surface, allowing even low

low

power flash units to be used ef

power flash units to be used effectively in the portrait

fectively in the portrait

situation.

Umbrellas

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