4/2014
Autumn
INSTRUCTIONS
Please read the followinggeneral instructions before starting your project. How to choose the correct size
Children’s pattern sizes are primar-ily chosen according to the child’s height, and the pattern measurements are then adjusted to correspond to the child’s other body measurements. Take the measurements on top of thin
underwear and compare them with the size chart. You will find detailed instructions for taking measurements on the next page.
How to find the pattern pieces on the pattern sheet
An overview of numbered, small-scale pattern pieces and a list of pattern pieces can be found next to the sew-ing instructions for each design. The appropriate pattern sheet is also stat-ed. On the bottom edge of the pat-tern sheet, find the number with the correct color for the desired pattern piece and move your finger upward on the sheet until you locate the same number.
Trace the pattern on tissue paper, in-cluding all the necessary markings (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket place-ments). The markings are also visible on the small-scale patterns next to the instructions. Make all adjustments to the pattern before cutting out the garment pieces.
Patterns
The patterns include hem allowances, placket extensions and placket facings. When cutting out the garment pieces, add seam allowances of approx. 1 cm (depending on the fabric) to each edge of the pattern.
The position of the first or top but-ton/buttonhole has been marked on the pattern. On blouses and shirts the top buttonhole on the front is approx. 4 cm below the neck seamline and the bottom buttonhole approx. 10 cm above the hemline. The rest of
the buttonholes should be placed at regular intervals (6…9 cm) between these points.
For reasons of clarity, some of the pattern markings (e.g. positions of Velcro tapes and buttons) have only been printed on the smallest-size pattern of the design. Copy these in the corresponding places on the pattern size of your choice, measuring the distance of each marking from the edge of the pattern piece. Large pattern pieces have been printed on the pattern sheet in two parts. Combine parts A and B before cutting out the garment pieces.
Cutting
Lay out the pattern pieces on a dou-ble layer of fabric, observing the markings for grainlines and foldlines. Draw the seam allowances on the fabric with tailor’s chalk.
If you only need to cut a piece out once, observe the pattern markings and cut either on a fold (e.g. back, col-lar) or from a single layer of fabric (e.g. pocket).
The measurements for garment pieces listed under the heading “Cut also” (e.g. belt loops, belts) already include seam allowances. When cutting out the garment, include allowances for fitting adjustments if necessary. Each design includes specific and detailed cutting instructions.
Garment sections to be interfaced are shaded in grey in the overview of small-scale pattern pieces. Knit and woven interfacings are cut on the grain, while non-woven interfacings may be cut in any direction as they do not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are generally cut adding the same amount of seam allowance (approx. 1 cm) as on pieces cut from fashion fabric. However, a smaller seam allowance may be used on interfacings for heavy-weight fabrics.
Materials
Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 145…150 cm. Pre-shrink the fabric before cutting either by washing or by steaming it thor-oughly. If you choose a different fabric from the one suggested in the maga-zine, allow for matching up fabric pat-tern and for cutting with nap when calculating the fabric requirement. Choose the interfacing on the basis of the fashion fabric’s color, quality, weight and care instructions. Since the quality and stretch of elas-tics vary, check the elastic lengths be-fore sewing.
If a zipper is not available in a desired length, buy a longer zipper and short-en it as shown in the illustration on pattern sheet D.
Sewing
Read through the instructions before you start sewing. If you wish, baste and try the garment on before sew-ing. To make sewing easier, the instruc-tions have been written on the basis of techniques used in the clothing in-dustry. The terms “inner”/”outer” and “left”/”right” refer to the garment
when worn.
Finish the construction seams of the garment after you have sewn them, even if the instructions do not spe-cifical y mention seam finish You can either use a serger or a machine zig-zag stitch for finishing the seams. On knit fabrics, stitch the seams using a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. No separate seam finish is necessary. Seams inside a lined garment do not necessarily have to be finished On hems (e.g. at the garment’s bot-tom edge or sleeve edges) the seam allowance is turned under and the hem is stitched close to the turned-under edge. The width of the hem and seam allowance is given in brackets; for example “stitch hem (2 cm + 1 cm)” means that the hem allowance is 2 cm and the seam allowance 1 cm.
Press the garment’s seams as you go along and give the garment a fina press when it is completed.
Practical tips
Gathering: Adjust your sewing ma-chine as follows: Decrease the up-per thread tension and increase the stitch length (stitch length 4...5). Sew two rows of gathering stitches 0.5 cm apart from each other on the right side of the edge to be gathered, plac-ing one row on the seamline and the other within the seam allow-ance. Leave long thread ends. Gath-er the fabric by pulling simultaneously on both bobbin threads and spread-ing the gathers between your fspread-ingers evenly over the required length. The gathered edge is stitched in place be-tween the gathering stitches using a regular straight stitch.
Easing: Rows of ease-stitching are sewn as gathering stitches but the bobbin threads are pulled just enough to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. at set-in sleeve caps).
Garments lined with knit When the lining fabric is a knit and the fashion fabric a woven, cut the lining out with considerably narrow-er seam allowances to keep the lining from showing under the fashion fabric.
©
The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and arti-cles in this magazine are protected under internation-al copyright laws. Professioninternation-al, industriinternation-al and commer-cial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a written agreement with the copyright holder. For further information, contact us in writing at the following address: Studio Tuumat Oy, Rantavitikantie 29, FI-96300 Rovaniemi, Finland.
C o py r i g h t © S t u d i o Tu u m a t O y ,
Rovaniemi, Finland OTTOBRE design® or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compen-sate for possible financial losses resulting from mis-prints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions.
Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy,
Rovaniemi, Finland
SIZE CHARTS
BABIES
50-92 cm
Height cm
50
56 62
68
74
80
86 92
1. Chest measurement 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 54 2. Waist measurement 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 3. Hip measurement 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 4. Sleeve length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 5. Inseam length 15 18 21 24 27 30 33.5 37TODDLERS
92-122 cm
Height cm
92
98
104
110
116
122
1. Chest measurement 54 56 58 60 62 64 2. Waist measurement 53 54 55 56 57 58 3. Hip measurement 58 60 62 64 66 68 4. Back waist length 22.5 24 25 26.5 28 29.55. Sleeve length 32 34 36 38 40 42 6. Outseam length 54 58 62 66 70 74 7. Shoulder width 8.0 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10
GIRLS
128-170 cm
Height cm
128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
1. Bust measurement 66 68 71 73 76 79 82 85 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 64 66 68 70 72 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 79 82 85 88 91 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 38.5 40 41.5 5. Sleeve length 44 46 48 50 52 54.5 57 59.5 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104.5 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.4 12.8 13.2BOYS
128-170 cm
Height cm
128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
1. Chest measurement 66 68 71 75 78 81 84 87 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 66 68 70 72 74 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 78 81 84 87 90 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 39 41 43 5. Sleeve length 44 46 49 51.5 54 56.5 59 61.5 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.5 13 13.5GIRLS AND BOYS
MEASURING
THE CHILD
For taking the measurements, you’ll need a tape measure and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist. You can sew a waist tape for this purpose of a strip of cotton fold-ed in four (finishfold-ed width 1.5 cm). Place the tape horizontally round the child’s waist and secure with a safe-ty pin.
The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging free at the sides.
The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a light-weight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the posi-tion of the tape measure behind the child.
Height of the child:
With the child standing up with the back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book). The height of the child is the distance measured from the floor to the marking.
Chest measurement:
Horizontal measurement round the body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades. Waist measurement: Measurement round the waist without the waist tape. Hip measurement:
Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom). Outseam length:
Distance from the waist to the floor measured from the lower edge of the waist tape.
Inseam length:
Distance from the crotch to the floor when the child is standing legs slightly apart with the weight evenly on both feet.
Shoulder width:
Distance from the base of the neck to the top of the arm.
Sleeve length:
Distance from the top of the arm to the wrist measured over the elbow with the arm slightly bent.
Back waist length:
Distance from the most prominent vertebra at the base of the neck to the lower edge of the waist tape.
You can find these charts with measurements in inches on our website.
The measurements in the chart
are taken on the body.
The patterns include the
necessary allowances for
ease of movement.
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 front 1
2 back 1
3 sleeve 2
PATTERN SHEET
A
orange1. Sausage Dog
bodysuit
56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 16-17
MATERIALS
- 55-60-60-65-65-70-70 cm printed organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ recovery 30%
- 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width 90 cm
- piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180
- four snap fasteners, ø 10 mm CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 8 mm seam allowances to all edges except neckline, bottom edges of sleeves and edges of leg openings.
Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib-bing for finishing neckline, bottom edges of sleeves and edges of leg openings. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the width that fits the binder.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48.
Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to bottom
edges of front and back panels (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns).
Joining: Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish
neckline with binding. Pin back panel on top of front panel on left shoulder, aligning edge of front panel with pattern line marking shoulder line of back panel, and machine-baste overlapped front and back armhole edges together. Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes right sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings.
Fold, press and stitch hems at bottom
edges of front and back panels as marked on pattern. Finish edges of leg openings with binding and leave a little extra at both ends of each binding. Wrap ends of binding tightly over crotch edge to wrong side and stitch them in place 5 mm from edge. Trim excess binding off close to stitching.
Finishing: Attach one snap fastener to
left shoulder and three snap fasteners to crotch as marked on pattern.
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 top-front corner 2 2 pants front 2 3 pants back 2 4 small pocket 1 5 back pocket 2 6 bottom-leg cuff 2
PATTERN SHEET
A
green2. Cool Baby
denim-look sweatpants
62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 16-17
MATERIALS
- 40-45-50-55-60-60 cm look organic-cotton jersey knit (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20% - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 46…52 cm elastic, width 25 mm - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 CUTTING
Cut bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing and other garment pieces from jersey as indi-cated on list of pattern pieces, adding 1 cm seam allowances to all edges.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with two parallel rows stitching, placing the first row of stitching close to edge or seamline and the second row presser-foot width away from the first row.
Back pockets: Stitch hems at opening
edges of pockets as marked on pattern. Turn seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and topstitch
pockets to pants backs as marked on pattern.
Joining: Stitch hem at opening edge of
small pocket. Turn seam allowance on side edge of small pocket to wrong side and pin and topstitch pocket to right top-front corner piece as marked on pattern. Pin top-front corner pieces to pants fronts right sides together and stitch them in place with straight stitch. Finish seam allowances together, fold them toward pants fronts and topstitch seams. Pin pants fronts and backs right sides to-gether and stitch leg inseams. Fold seam allowances toward pants backs and top-stitch seams. Pin pants halves together and stitch crotch seam (note that stitching line runs along outer edges of mock fly extensions). Fold mock fly extensions onto left pants front and topstitch mock
fly from right side. At the same time, fold crotch seam allowances toward left pants front and back and topstitch crotch seam. Pin and stitch side seams. Fold seam allowances toward pants back and top-stitch side seams close to seamline, start-ing stitchstart-ing at waist edge and endstart-ing at edge of mock pocket opening. Leave pants inside out.
Bottom edges of legs: Stitch side edges
of each bottom-leg cuff together to form circles. Fold cuffs in half wrong sides to-gether. Place cuffs inside pants legs, right sides together. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges of legs with straight stitch, stretching cuffs slightly as you sew. Finish seam allow-ances together. Turn pants right side out, fold seam allowances of cuff seams toward pants panels and topstitch seams.
Waistline: Finish raw edge of waist casing
allowance. Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit the child’s waist (length of elastic = child’s waist minus 4…5 cm). Stitch ends of elastic together to form circle and mark elastic into quarters. Pin elastic to wrong side of waist casing allowance, placing it along outer edge of casing allow-ance and aligning quarter marks with cen-ter-front, center-back and side seams. Machine-baste elastic to casing allowance by stitching-in-the-ditch along garment’s seamlines from right side. Fold waist casing allowance and elastic to wrong side and stitch casing in place through all layers along bottom edge of elastic, stretching elastic as you sew. Stitch another row of stitching along casing, placing it in the middle of elastic. Steam pants waist to shrink elastic back to its original length.
3. Wind Chime
jersey hoodie
62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 18-19
MATERIALS
- 45-50-55-55-60-65 cm organic-cotton interlock knit (CO), stretch/recovery 20%
- 15 cm organic-cotton ribbing (CO/EL)
- 30 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband - 5 cm piece of twill tape, width 15 mm - wooden button, ø 15 mm
1
2
3
4
6
5
1
2
3
CUTTING
Cut sleeve cuffs from ribbing and other garment pieces from interlock knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except face edges of hood panels, edges of front slit and opening edges of pocket. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib-bing for finishing face edge of hood and edges of front slit as well as opening edges of pocket. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the width that fits the binder.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48.
Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for
shoulder edges on back panel and for top edge of pocket (measure required lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of seam allowances.
Pocket: Finish opening edges of pocket
with binding. Turn and press seam allow-ances on side edges of pocket to wrong side. Pin and stitch bottom edge of pocket to front panel as marked on pattern, right sides together. Fold pocket right side up, pin it in position and stitch its side and top edges to front panel close to edge.
Button loop: Cut 1.5 cm x 7.5 cm strip
from interlock knit. Fold strip in half lengthwise and stitch its edges together with serger rolled hem, so that the finished width of strip is approx. 5 mm. Machine-baste button loop to wrong side of hood’s face-edge seam allowance, approx. 2 cm above neckline corner of hood.
Joining: Pin front and back right sides
together and stitch shoulder seams. Stitch
top/back seam of hood, ending stitching approx. 5 cm away from face edge of hood. Pin and stitch hood to garment’s neckline right sides together. Finish face edge of hood and edges of front slit with continuous binding. Stitch rest of top/back seam of hood, fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across face-edge binding. Stitch one end of twill tape to wrong side of hood’s face edge over top seam. Wrap tape to right side of hood, turn seam allowance at its end under and stitch end to hood’s face edge. Fold button loop in position and stitch it to outer edge of binding.
Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up and press bottom hem and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Leave garment inside out.
Stitch side edges of each sleeve cuff to-gether to form circles. Fold cuffs in half wrong sides together. Place cuffs inside sleeves right sides together and stitch them to bottom edges of sleeves, stretch-ing cuffs slightly as you sew. Sew button on face edge of hood.
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 front 1 2 back 1 3 sleeve 2 4 hood 2 5 pocket 1 6 sleeve cuff 2
PATTERN SHEET
A
bluePATTERN PIECES cut
1 front 1
2 back 1
3 sleeve 2
PATTERN SHEET
A
red4. Meadow Green
jersey top
62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 20-21
MATERIALS
- 40-40-45-45-50-50 cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 8 cm clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm - 35…40 cm elastic, width 6 mm CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strip from ribbing for finishing neckline. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, cut the binding strip in the width that fits the binder.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing ma-chine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48.
Joining: Gather front neckline with clear
elastic tape: machine-baste piece of clear elastic tape to right side of neckline seam allowance, placing it between pattern
markings and stretching it evenly as you sew. Pin sleeves to front panel right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Pin right sleeve to back panel and stitch right raglan seam on back. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch left raglan seam on back. Fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem.
Bottom edges of sleeves: Finish raw
bottom edges of sleeves. Cut two
17-17-17-18-18-18 cm pieces of elastic and stitch ends of each piece together to form circles. Mark midpoints on pieces of elastic as well as on sleeve edges. Ma-chine-baste elastic to wrong side side of sleeve-edge seam allowance with zigzag stitch, stretching elastic as you sew and aligning midpoint marks. Turn sleeve-edge seam allowance with elastic to wrong side and stitch sleeve edge close to outer edge of elastic.
5. Straight Stripes
jersey pants
56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Page 19
MATERIALS
- 35-40-40-45-50-55-55 cm striped organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 14 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 45…50 cm elastic, width 20 mm
PATTERN PIECES cut
4 pants panel 2
5 bottom-leg cuff 2
PATTERN SHEET
A
red1
2
3
4
5
6
1
2
3
4
5
CUTTING
Cut pants panels from striped single jersey and bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing as indi-cated on list of pattern pieces, adding 8 mm seam allowances to all edges.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch waist casing with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing ma-chine.
Joining: Stitch leg inseams. Place pants
legs within one another right sides to-gether and stitch crotch seam; leave
open-ing for insertopen-ing elastic in center-back seam across waist casing allowance. Turn pants inside out. Stitch side edges of each bottom-leg cuff together to form circles. Fold cuffs in half wrong sides together. Place cuffs inside pants legs, right sides together. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges of legs, stretching cuffs slightly as you sew.
Waistline: Stitch waist casing. Measure
and cut piece of elastic to fit the child’s waist (length of elastic = child’s waist minus 4…5 cm). Insert elastic into waist casing and stitch its ends together. Close opening on casing by hand-stitching.
CUTTING
Cut neckline and armhole facings on the bias from cotton fabric. *Pattern pieces for facings include seam allowances. Cut other garment pieces from cotton fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to all other edges.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch.
Cat appliqué: Trace cat and its eyes from
pattern sheet on paper backing of fusible web. Iron pieces of fusible web with motifs onto wrong side of pieces of fabric. Cut appliqué shapes out along their outlines. Remove paper backing from shapes and iron shapes onto right side of skirt front.
Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong side of skirt front, under appliqué area. Stitch appliqué shapes in place close to edge with narrow, short zigzag, using matching sewing thread for each shape. Remove tear-away backing.
Embroider cat’s whiskers by hand with chain stitch, using embroidery floss. Em-broider cat’s nose by hand with satin stitch. Make cat’s collar by sewing three rows of beads at cat’s neck. Sew each bead in place by passing thread twice through it to secure it firmly to fabric.
Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to placket
facings on back yokes and skirt backs (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale pat-terns).
Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top
edges of skirt front and back panels and gather edges to fit front and back yoke panels. Pin and stitch skirt front to front
yoke. Press seam allowances gently toward yoke. Stitch skirt backs to back yokes in the same way.
Stitch shoulder seams. Finish armholes with facing: Stitch facing to armhole right sides together. Trim seam allowances to 5 mm. Understitch armhole seam allow-ances to facing close to seamline. Fold facing to wrong side of garment, turn seam allowance on its free edge under and stitch turned-under edge to armhole close to edge.
Fold placket facings to wrong side of garment and press. Turn seam allowances at outer edges of placket facings to wrong side and press. Fold up and press bottom hem as marked on pattern. Fold placket facings to right side of garment and stitch neckline edges as well as bottom-hem edges, stitching along bottom-hem foldline. Pin and stitch neckline facing to garment’s
neckline, with its ends slightly overlapping placket facings. Trim neckline seam allow-ances to 5 mm. Turn neckline corners right side out and understitch neckline seam allowances to facing close to seam-line. Turn seam allowance on free edge of facing under and stitch turned-under edge to neckline close to edge. Stitch side seams. Fold side seam allow-ances toward back panels and stitch them flat across armhole facings. Trim seam allowances at bottom-hem corners and turn corners right side out. Turn edge of bottom hem allowance under and pin and stitch hem. Pin placket facings in position and stitch them to garment close to their outer edges.
Finishing: Sew five snap fasteners on
back placket, placing top snap as marked on pattern and the rest at regular 5…6 cm intervals.
6. Her Sweetness
pinafore dress
56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 3, 20-21
MATERIALS
- 55-60-65-65-70-70-75 cm printed, soft cotton fabric(CO), width 110 cm
- piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 - five sew-on snap fasteners, ø 6 mm
For appliqué:
- piece of bright-colored fabric and small pieces of black and white fabric for cat appliqué - small seed beads - double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Vliesofix - tear-away backing, Vlieseline® Stickvlies - black embroidery floss for embroidery
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 front yoke 1 2 skirt front 1 3 back yoke 2 4 skirt back 2 5 neckline facing* 1 6 armhole facing* 2 cat appliqué
PATTERN SHEET
A
lilac7. Best Pals
outerwear coverall
56-62-68-74-80 cm
Page 18
MATERIALS
- 60-65-70-80-85 cm printed sweatshirt knit (CO/EL) for shell and 60-65-70-80-85 cm printed cotton single jersey (CO/EL) for lining, stretch/ recovery of both knits 30% - 60-65-70-80-85 cm lightweight microfiber knit batting (PES), Warm-Fill
- zipper, length 30-30-30-35-35 cm - piece of ribbon, width 6 mm, for hanging loop
- 100…110 cm clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm - 70…85 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband
PATTERN PIECES cut
Shell Batting Lining
1 front 2 2 2
2 back 2 2 2
3 sleeve 2 2 2
4 hood 2 2 2
5 pocket piece 2 -
PATTERN SHEET
A
black1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3
4
5
6
CUTTING
Preshrink fabrics by washing them before cutting.
Shell: Cut pocket opening on pattern
piece for shell front observing pattern markings. Cut shell pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 1 cm seam allowances to all edges except center-front edges, face edges of hood panels, edges of pocket openings and bottom edges of sleeves and legs. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib-bing for finishing center-front edges and face edge of hood, edges of pocket open-ings and bottom edges of sleeves and legs. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the width that fits the binder.
Batting: Cut batting pieces as indicated
on list of pattern pieces, adding 2-3 cm seam allowances to all edges. Note that batting pieces are trimmed to exact size only after they have been machine-basted to shell panels.
Lining: Cut lining pieces from single
jer-sey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 1 cm seam allowances to all edges except center-front edges, face edges of hood panels and bottom edges of sleeves and legs.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. No seam finish is necessary as the garment is fully lined. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48.
Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for
center-front edges of shell front panels and fuse them to wrong side of center-front seam allowances (measure required lengths of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances).
Joining shell: Finish edges of pocket
openings with binding. Pin pocket piece under front panel as marked on pattern,
both pocket and front panel right side up, and machine-baste edges of pocket piece to side seamlines. Stitch curved edge of pocket to front panel with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine.
Pin shell panels to batting panels and ma-chine-baste them to batting panels close to outer edge of seam allowances with straight stitch (use longest stitch length). Trim excess batting off on edges of all panels. Pin sleeves to front and back panels right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Stitch center-back seam. Pin hood panels right sides together and stitch top/ center-back seam.
Joining lining: Pin sleeves to front and
back panels right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Stitch center-back seam. Pin hanging loop to back neckline and machine-baste its ends to each side of center-back seam. Pin hood panels right sides together and stitch top/center-back seam.
Joining shell and lining: Press all seams
before joining shell and lining. Pin shell and lining wrong sides together and ma-chine-baste their center-front edges and necklines together. Pin and stitch shell hood to shell side of garment’s neckline, right sides together. Pin and stitch lining hood to lining side of garment in the same way. Place hood sections within one another and machine-baste their face edges together. Finish garment’s center-front edges and face edge of hood with binding.
Cut 3 cm x 10...12 cm piece from single jersey and finish its raw edges. Fold piece in half and stitch it to bottom end of zipper as extension (check length of zipper + extension on pattern before stitching zipper in place). Open zipper. Pin zipper to garment’s front edges, aligning top ends of zipper coil with neckline seam and turning top ends of zipper tapes under, and stitch zipper in place along inner stitching line on binding. Secure top ends of zipper to garment by hand-stitching.
Pin front (shell + lining) to shell back right sides together at bottom end of zipper placket and stitch leg inseam for approx. 6 cm on each side of zipper. Flip lining back panel to the same place at bottom end of zipper and stitch it to previously stitched portion of leg inseam. Stitch rest of leg inseams from end of previous stitch-ing line to bottom edge of leg; first stitch shell front and back right sides together and then lining front and back right sides together.
Turn garment right side out. Stitch under-arm seams and side seams of lining as continuous seams; leave 15 cm opening for turning in one side seam. Pull under-arm and side-seam edges of shell out through opening for turning, one side at a time, and stitch as continuous seams. Stitch opening for turning closed, working through bottom edge of leg. Pin and
ma-chine-baste shell and lining together along bottom edges of sleeves and bottom edges of legs. Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for bottom edges of sleeves and legs (measure required lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Machine-baste tapes along bottom edges of sleeves and legs, on right side of shell. Finish bottom edges of sleeves and legs with binding. If you use a regular sewing machine, first stitch ends of binding strips together to form circles. If you use a binder on a coverstitch machine, start applying the binding next to the underarm seam or leg inseam on the garment’s back and, when you return to the starting point, turn the binding away from the edge and leave a little extra at its end. Wrap end binding tightly to wrong side and stitch it in place along stitching line that attaches binding. Trim excess binding off close to stitching.
PATTERN PIECES cut
4 pants panel 2
cat and diamond appliqué
PATTERN SHEET
A
orange8. Playful Kitty
leggings
56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 20-21
MATERIALS
- 45-50-55-55-60-65-70 cm cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30%
- 45…52 cm elastic, width 20 mm
For appliqué:
- piece of green single jersey for cat, as well as small pieces of red and white single jersey - double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Vliesofix - tear-away backing, Vlieseline® Stickvlies - black embroidery floss for embroidery CUTTING
Cut pants panels from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 8 mm seam allowances to all edges.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with
twin needle on regular sewing machine.
Cat appliqué: Trace cat and diamonds
from pattern sheet on paper backing of fusible web. Iron pieces of fusible web with motifs onto wrong side of pieces of jersey. Cut appliqué shapes out along their outlines. Remove paper backing from shapes and iron shapes onto right side of pants panels. Pin pieces of tear-away backing to wrong side of pants panels, under appliqué shapes. Stitch appliqué
shapes in place close to edge with narrow, short zigzag, using matching sewing thread for each shape. Remove tear-away backing. Embroider cat’s whiskers by hand with chain stitch, using embroidery floss. Em-broider cat’s nose and eyes by hand with satin stitch.
Joining: Fold up, press and stitch hems
at bottom edges of legs as marked on pattern. Stitch leg inseams. Fold inseam seam allowances at bottom edges of legs
to one side and stitch them flat across bottom-leg hems. Place pants legs within one another right sides together and stitch crotch seam; leave opening across waist casing allowance at center back for inserting elastic. Stitch waist casing. Meas-ure and cut piece of elastic to fit the child’s waist (length of elastic = child’s waist minus 4…5 cm). Insert elastic into waist casing and stitch its ends together. Close opening on casing by hand-stitching.
CUTTING
Preshrink shell and lining fabrics before cutting. Refer to list of pattern pieces and small-scale patterns when cutting out garment pieces.
Batting: Cut batting pieces as indicated
on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern piece for center-back on fold and adding 2-3 cm seam allowances to all other edges. Note that batting pieces are trimmed to exact size only after they have been machine-basted to shell panels.
Shell: Cut up pattern for front into two
separate pattern pieces along marked seamline, i.e. into front yoke and lower front panel. Cut shell pieces as follows: lower front panels from beige, sleeves from blue, beak from yellow and other shell pieces from black corduroy, placing center-back edge of pattern piece for back on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to other edges.
Lining: Cut off pattern pieces for front
and back facings from patterns for front and back, pattern piece for pocket facing from pattern for pocket, and pattern piece for lower sleeve panel from pattern for sleeve, observing pattern markings. Trace pattern pieces for hood side and center panels observing pattern markings. Cut front and back facings, hood facings and pocket facings from black corduroy, lower sleeve panels from beige corduroy and other lining pieces from lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allow-ances to other edges.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with straight stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. No seam finish is
necessary as the garment is fully lined.
Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas
shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place.
Eyes: Trace eyes and pupils from pattern
piece for hood side panel on paper backing of fusible web. Iron eyes onto wrong side of white and pupils onto wrong side of blue corduroy and cut shapes out along their outlines. Remove paper backing from shapes and iron shapes onto shell-hood side panels as marked on pattern. Stitch shapes in place with narrow, short zigzag stitch, using matching thread for each shape.
Pockets: Stitch pocket facings to lining
pocket pieces, clip seam allowances on lining pockets and press seam allowances toward lining pockets. Pin shell and lining pocket pieces together and stitch opening edges of pockets. Clip seam allowances along curves and understitch seam allow-ances to pocket facing. Pin shell and lining pockets right sides together and stitch pocket edges together, leaving small open-ing for turnopen-ing at bottom edge of pocket. Trim corners and turn pockets right side out. Press pockets flat. Pin pockets to lower front panels of shell as marked on pattern and stitch them in place close to edge, closing opening for turning at the same time.
Joining shell: Pin and stitch front yokes
to lower front panels. Press seam allow-ances gently toward yokes. Pin shell panels to batting panels and machine-baste them to batting panels close to outer edge of seam allowances with straight stitch (use longest stitch length). Trim excess batting from edges of all panels.
Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Stitch sleeves to armholes
right sides together. Stitch sleeve under-arm seams and side seams.
Joining lining: Pin and stitch facings to
lining front and back panels and lower sleeve panels to lining sleeves right sides together. Press seam allowances toward lining panels. Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Stitch sleeves to armholes right sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams, leaving 15 cm opening for turning in one side seam. Pin hanging loop to back neck-line and machine-baste its ends to each side of center-back mark.
Hood: Pin and stitch shell-hood side
panels to center panels right sides togeth-er. Fold seam allowances toward center panels and topstitch seams. Pin shell hood halves together and stitch top/center-back seam. Fold seam allowances toward left hood half and topstitch seam. Pin beak pieces right sides together and stitch their outer edges. Trim corner, turn beak right side out and steam it gently. Stitch nostrils on beak with straight stitch as marked on pattern. Pin and machine-baste beak to face edge of shell hood, right sides together, aligning center mark on beak with top seam on hood. Pin and stitch lining-hood side panels to center panels right sides together. Fold and press seam allowances toward center panels. Pin and stitch hood facings to lining hood halves right sides together. Press seam allowances toward lining. Pin lining hood halves right sides together and stitch top/center-back seam. Press seam allowances toward right hood half. Place shell and lining hoods within one another right sides together and stitch their face edges together, with beak in between. Understitch face-edge seam
allowances to lining hood. Place shell and lining hoods within one another wrong sides together and machine-baste their bottom edges together.
Joining shell and lining: Press seams
on shell and lining. Pin and stitch hood to shell’s neckline, right sides together, aligning its face edge with center-front marks on shell. Turn shell and lining inside out. Place shell and lining right sides together and pin and stitch their front edges and necklines together, with hood in between. Press front-edge seam allow-ances toward lining and understitch them to lining close to seamline. Stitch bottom-hem edges of shell and lining together. Trim front-neckline and bottom-hem corners. Clip neckline seam allowances and clip to stitching at bottom-hem corner at center-back. Pin and stitch bottom edges of shell and lining sleeves right sides together. Note! Do not place shell and lining sleeves within one another but bring bottom edges of sleeves end to end and stitch, making sure that sleeves are not twisted.
Turn garment right side out through opening in side seam of lining. Poke cor-ners out and steam garment’s front edges and bottom hem thoroughly. Secure side seam allowances of lining to side seam allowances of shell at top edge of facing by hand-stitching, working between shell and lining. Secure underarm seam allow-ances of lining sleeves to shell at top edges of lower sleeve panels. Close open-ing for turnopen-ing.
Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew
buttons on front edges as marked on pattern.
9. Hopping Magpie
corduroy jacket
98-104-110-116-122-128 cm
Pages 2, 4-5
MATERIALS - 80-80-85-85-90-95 cm black, 50-50-50 cm beige and 45-50-50-55-55 cm blue corduroy (CO) - 90-90-95-100-105-110 cm lining fabric (CV) - 115-115-115-120-120-130 cm lightweight microfiber knit batting (PES), Warm-Fill
- 55…65 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 - 4-5 buttons, ø 22 mm
- 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, width 6 mm, for hanging loop - pieces of yellow corduroy for beak, white corduroy for eyes and blue corduroy for pupils - piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Vliesofix
PATTERN PIECES cut
Shell Corduroy Batting
1 front - 2 front yoke 2 lower front panel 2 -2 back 1 1 3 sleeve 2 2 4 pocket 2
-5 hood side panel 2 2 6 hood center panel 2 2
8 beak 2
-Lining Corduroy Lining fabric 1 front - 2 1 front facing 2 -2 back - 1 2 back facing 1 -3 sleeve - 2 3 lower sleeve panel 2 -5 hood side panel - 2 6 hood center panel- 2 4 pocket - 2 4 pocket facing 2 -7 hood facing 2
PATTERN SHEET
B
blackShell Lining
1
2
3
8
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
1
2
3
4
4
6
5
CUTTING
Design A: Cut garment pieces from
single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. *Pattern piece for button band includes seam allowances.
Design B: Cut garment pieces from
single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves.
Both designs: Cut 3.5 cm wide binding
strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the width that fits the binder.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing ma-chine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48.
Stabilizing: Cut pieces of clear elastic
tape for stabilizing shoulder seams (meas-ure required length of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances). Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel (on finished garment, tapes will be con-cealed between seam allowances).
Front, design A: Turn and press seam
allowances at both long edges as well as at bottom edge of button band to wrong side. Pin button band to front neckline, placing it in the middle of front panel along center-front line, and stitch it in place close to edge. Sew four buttons on button band as marked on pattern.
Front, design B: Cut 12 cm piece of
clear elastic tape for gathering top edge of front panel. Mark midpoint on piece of clear elastic tape. Machine-baste tape to top edge of front panel, placing it on its right side between pattern markings;
align midpoint of tape with center-front mark on front panel and stretch tape as you sew to gather edge beautifully. Pin and stitch front yoke to front panel right sides together, concealing clear elastic tape between seam allowances. Fold and steam seam allowances gently toward yoke.
Joining, designs A and B: Stitch left
shoulder seam. Finish neckline with bind-ing. Check size of neck openbind-ing. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold shoulder seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding.
Finish bottom edges of sleeves with bind-ing. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern.
CUTTING
Preshrink fabrics before cutting.
Shell: Cut shell pieces from striped
cot-ton fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to other edges.
Lining: Cut lining skirt panels from batiste
or lining fabric as indicated on list of pat-tern pieces, placing center-front and cen-ter-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to other edges. Note that bottom hem of lining skirt is cut along pattern lines mark-ing bottom-hem foldlines of shell.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline.
Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to shell
pieces (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns).
Appliqué: Trace parts of magpie motif
from pattern sheet on paper backing of double-sided fusible web. Fuse wing to wrong side of blue, belly and eye to wrong side of white and other parts to wrong side of black piece of fabric and cut shapes out along their outlines.
Remove paper backing of fusible web from wrong side of shapes, arrange shapes
on skirt front panel and fuse them in place by ironing. Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong side of skirt panel under appliqué shapes. Stitch along edges of ap-pliqué shapes with narrow, short zigzag. Embroider bird’s legs with short zigzag stitch. Secure thread ends and remove tear-away backing from wrong side care-fully. Steam appliqué area.
Yoke seams: Sew rows of gathering
stitches along top edges of both shell and lining skirt panels. Gather skirt front panels to fit front yokes and skirt back panels to fit back yokes. Pin and stitch shell skirt panels to shell yokes right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward yokes and topstitch seams. Stitch lining skirt panels to lining yokes in the same way.
Joining: Pin shell front and back as well
as lining front and back right sides together and stitch side seams of both shell and lining. Place shell and lining within one another right sides together. Pin and stitch top edges of shell and lining together (i.e. necklines, armholes and outer edges of shoulder straps). Trim corners, trim seam allowances slightly and clip curves. Pull shell and lining apart, both right sides out. Understitch armhole seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Turn garment right side out and press yokes and shoul-der straps thoroughly. Topstitch edges of front and back neckline, armholes and shoulder straps close to edge.
Finishing: Finish raw bottom-hem edge
of shell. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem of shell as marked on pattern. Stitch hem (1 cm + 1 cm) at bottom edge of lining. Stitch buttonholes on front yoke and sew buttons on shoulder straps as marked on pattern.
10. Magpie
pinafore dress
86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm
Pages 50-51
MATERIALS
- 65-70-70-75-80-85-90 cm striped cotton fabric for shell
- 50-50-55-60-65-65-70 cm color cotton batiste or viscose lining fabric for lining
- piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 - four buttons, ø 20 mm
For appliqué:
- piece of tear-away backing, Vlieseline® Stickvlies
- piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Vliesofix
- small pieces of blue, white and black cotton fabric or cotton single jersey
PATTERN PIECES cut
Shell Lining 1 front yoke 1+1 -2 back yoke 2 -3 skirt front 1 1 4 skirt back 1 1 magpie appliqué
PATTERN SHEET
B
blue11. Autumn Forest
jersey top
86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm
Pages 50-51, 54
MATERIALS
- 50-50-55-55-60-60-60 cm printed cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL)
- four buttons, ø 10 mm, design A - 20…25 cm (design A) or 35… 45 cm (design B) clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 front, design A 1
2 front yoke, design B 1
3 front, design B 1
4 back 1
5 sleeve 2
6 button band, design A* 1
PATTERN SHEET
B
red1
2
3
4
5
6
1
2
3
4
A BPATTERN PIECES cut
1 pants panel 2
2 pocket 2
PATTERN SHEET
B
green12. Sweet Denim
leggings
86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm
Page 54
MATERIALS
- 55-60-65-70-75-75-80 cm look organic-cotton jersey knit (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20% - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 30 cm clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm - 46…52 cm elastic, width 20 mm - two grommets, ø 6 mm - piece of cotton fabric CUTTING
Cut garment pieces from jersey as indi-cated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to opening edges of pockets. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing opening edges of pockets as well as for drawstring. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the width that fits the binder.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch waist casing, bottom-leg hems and draw-string with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine.
See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48.
Pockets: Cut two 8 cm pieces of clear
elastic tape. Machine-baste pieces to seam allowances at opening edges of pockets, placing them between pattern markings and stretching them as you sew to gather edges evenly. Finish opening edges of pockets with binding. Sew row of ease-stitching along curved edges of each pocket. Make template for pocket by tracing pocket outlines from pants panel on cardboard and cutting template out. Lay pocket tem-plate on wrong side of pocket. Holding template and pocket against ironing board, pull up bobbin thread of ease-stitching and turn pocket seam allowances over edge of template to wrong side. Press turned pocket edges.
Pin and stitch pockets to pants panels as marked on pattern.
Joining: Cut two 7 cm pieces of clear
elastic tape. Machine-baste pieces to leg-inseam seam allowances, placing them between pattern markings and stretching them as you sew to gather inseam edges evenly. Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges of legs as marked on pat-tern. Stitch leg inseams. Fold inseam seam allowances at bottom edges of legs to one side and stitch them flat across width of bottom-leg hems. Place pants legs within one another right sides together and stitch crotch seam; leave small opening across waist casing allowance at center back for inserting elastic.
Waistline: Attach grommets to waist
edge as marked on pattern. Follow
grom-met manufacturer’s instructions and place piece of cotton fabric to wrong side of waist under each grommet to reinforce grommet area. Cut 70…80 cm piece for drawstring from strip cut from ribbing. Fold and press strip in three lengthwise and stitch in the middle of strip. Fold and press casing at waist. Place drawstring within casing and thread its ends out through grommets. Trim drawstring to desired length and stitch narrow hems at its ends. Stitch waist casing. Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit the child’s waist. Insert elastic into waist casing and stitch its ends together. Close opening on casing by hand-stitching. Se-cure elastic and drawstring to casing by stitching through all layers along center-back seamline.
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 bodice front 1 2 bodice back 1 3 sleeve 2 4 skirt front 1 4 skirt back 1 5 pocket piece 2 6 pocket facing 2 7 neckline binding 1 8 sleeve cuff 2
PATTERN SHEET
A
brown13. China Girl
sweatshirt-knit dress
86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm
Page 54
MATERIALS
- 70-75-80-80-85-90-95 cm printed sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - piece of cotton single jersey (CO/EL) for pocket facings - 18 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 150…180 cm clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm CUTTING
Cut neckline binding and sleeve cuffs from ribbing, pocket facings from cotton single jersey and other garment pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allow-ances to all other edges except pocket-opening edges and bottom-hem edges. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing bottom hem and edges of pocket openings. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the width that fits the binder.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Topstitch
raglan seams and attachment seams of sleeve cuffs and neckline binding with flat-lock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). See general in-structions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48.
Pockets: Pin pocket facings to edges of
pocket openings on skirt front wrong sides together and machine-baste them in place with straight stitch. Finish edges of pocket openings with binding. Pin pocket pieces to pocket facings right sides together and stitch bottom of each pocket with serger. Machine-baste top edges of pockets to waist seam allowances and their side edges to side seam allowances.
Joining: Pin sleeves to bodice front and
back right sides together and stitch raglan seams with straight stitch. Press raglan seams open and topstitch them with flat-lock stitch. Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom edges of sleeves as follows: Pin and stitch
one edge of cuff to bottom edge of sleeve right sides together. Press seam open, fold cuff in half wrong sides together and pin its free edge to sleeve-edge seam. Stitch cuff in place from right side of sleeve with flatlock stitch, aligning center line of stitching with seamline. Stitch ends of neckline binding together to form circle. Mark binding and neckline into quarters. Pin binding to neckline, aligning its seam with one of the raglan seams on back. Stitch neckline binding to neckline in the same way as cuffs to sleeves.
Fold pleats at waist edges of skirt front and back as marked on pattern and ma-chine-baste them in position. Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for waist edges of bodice front and back (measure required lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of waist seam allowances (on finished garment, tapes
will be concealed between seam allow-ances). The purpose of clear elastic tapes is to prevent waist seam from stretching out of shape. Pin and stitch skirt panels to bodice panels.
Cut two 38-39-40-41-43-45-47 cm pieces of clear elastic tape for bottom-hem edges of skirt front and back. Mark midpoints on clear elastic tapes. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of bottom-hem edges, aligning midpoints of tapes with center-front and center-back marks and stretching tapes as you sew to gather edges beautifully. Stitch left sleeve-under-arm and side seam as continuous seam. Finish bottom-hem edge with binding. Stitch right sleeve-underarm seam and side seam. Fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across bottom-hem binding and for approx. 2 cm at bottom edges of sleeves.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
4
1
2
14. Choco Pops
outerwear coverall
86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm
Pages 6-7
MATERIALS
- 170 cm tightly-woven outerwear fabric (CO or CO/PES) for shell - 90-95-100-105-110-115-120 cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL) for lining
- 35-40-40-45-45-45-45 cm lining fabric (CV/PES) for lower sleeve and leg panels of lining - 170 cm lightweight microfiber knit batting (Warm-Fill) - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180
- zipper, length 45-46 cm (with 6 mm wide coil) - four snap fasteners, ø 10 mm, Prym Anorak
- 5 cm Velcro tape (both hook and loop sides)
- 100…110 cm elastic, width 25 mm
- 40…50 cm elastic cord, ø 2.5 mm
- two-hole cord lock - two grommets, ø 4 mm - 10 cm narrow ribbon for hanging loop
- topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 CUTTING
Shell: Join pattern pieces 1+1A and 2+2A before cutting. Cut shell pieces
from outerwear fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges of pattern pieces for collar and snap band fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to other edges.
Batting: Cut batting pieces with patterns
for shell as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern piece for collar on fabric fold and adding 2-3 cm seam allowances to other edges. Note that batting pieces are trimmed to exact size only after they have been ma-chine-basted to lining panels.
Lining: Trace pattern piece for lining
hood from pattern for shell hood, observ-ing pattern markobserv-ings (see small-scale patterns). Cut lower front-leg and back-leg panels as well as lower sleeve panels from lining fabric and other lining pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 1 cm seam allow-ances to all edges.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with straight stitch. No seam finish is necessary as the garment is fully lined.
Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to shell
hood panels at pattern markings for grom-mets as well as to snap band and zipper shield (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns).
Hood: Pin and stitch hood facings to
lining hood panels. Understitch seam al-lowances to facings close to seamline. Pin lining hood panels to hood batting
panels and machine-baste them to batting panels close to outer edge of seam allow-ances with straight stitch (use longest stitch length). Trim excess batting off on edges. Pin lining hood panels right sides together and stitch top/center-back seam. Press seam open.
Attach grommets to shell hood panels as marked on pattern. Pin shell hood pan-els right sides together and stitch top/ center-back seam. Fold seam allowances to one side and topstitch seam with two parallel rows of stitching. Place shell hood and lining hood within one another, right sides together, and pin and stitch their face edges together. Clip seam allowances along curves and understitch them to hood facing close to seamline. Thread cord lock onto elastic cord and slide it to the middle of cord. Thread ends of elastic cord through grommets to inside of hood. Adjust length of cord to have snug fit on hood and stitch its ends to seam allowances at face edge of hood as marked on pattern.
Stitch front and bottom edges of hood sections together, leaving approx. 10 cm opening for turning across center-back seam. Trim corners, trim seam allowances all around if necessary and turn hood right side out. Press face edge of hood gently. Pin face edge so that elastic cord lies close to face edge. Stitch casing along face edge of hood as marked on pattern. Turn seam allowances at edges of opening for turning in, pin edges together and stitch close to edge. Stitch pieces of Velcro tape to front corners of hood as marked on pattern, placing loop tape as one piece on the inside of outer corner of hood and cutting hook tape in half and stitching
pieces on the outside of inner corner of hood. Round corners of Velcro tapes be-fore stitching them to hood.
Joining lining: Pin and stitch lower leg
panels to lining fronts and backs and lower sleeve panels to lining sleeves right sides together. Press seam allowances onto lining-fabric panels. Pin lining panels to batting panels and machine-baste them to batting panels close to outer edge of seam allowances with straight stitch (use longest stitch length). Trim excess batting from edges of all panels.
Pin lining fronts and backs right sides to-gether and stitch leg inseams. Pin and stitch crotch/center-back seam, starting stitching at notch for zipper placket on front and ending it at back neckline. Pin lining sleeves to lining front and back and stitch raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams of lining, starting stitching at bottom edges of sleeves and ending it at bottom edges of legs. Press seams on lining.
Collar: Turn seam allowances at top
edge and both ends of snap band to wrong side. Pin snap band to right side of outer collar piece, aligning bottom edge of band with bottom edge of collar, and stitch it in place close to turned-under edges. Attach stud halves of snap fasteners to snap band as marked on pattern. Pin inner collar piece to batting collar piece and machine-baste it to batting piece along outer edge of seam allow-ances. Trim excess batting from edges. Pin inner and outer collar pieces right sides together and stitch their top edges together. Understitch seam allowances to inner collar piece close to seamline.
Pin and stitch ends of hanging loop to seam allowance at bottom edge of inner collar, placing them on each side of center-back mark.
Joining shell: Pin shell fronts and backs
together and stitch leg inseams. Pin and stitch crotch/center-back seam, starting stitching at notch for zipper placket on front and ending it at back neckline. Pin shell sleeves to shell front and back and stitch raglan seams. Fold seam allowances toward sleeves and topstitch seams with two parallel rows of stitching. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams, starting stitching at bottom edges of sleeves and ending it at bottom edges of legs. Stitch bottom edge of outer collar piece to neckline of shell. Clip neckline seam al-lowances along curves. Press seams on shell.
Bottom edges of sleeves and legs:
Cut two 21-21-21-22-22-23-23 cm pieces of 25 mm wide elastic for bottom edges of sleeves and two 27-27-27-28-28-29-29 cm pieces for bottom edges of legs. Stitch ends of each elastic together to form circles. Stitch ends of each sleeve cuff and bottom-leg cuff together to form circles. Press joining seams open, fold cuffs in half wrong sides together and press. Place elastics within cuffs and stitch open edges of each cuff together close to elastic (use zipper foot so that you can stitch as close to outer edge of elastic as possible). Sew another row of stitching through all layers in the middle of each cuff, stretching elastic as you sew. Pin and stitch cuffs to bottom edges of sleeves and legs of shell, right sides together.
PATTERN PIECES cut
Shell 1+1A front 2 2+2 A back 2 3 sleeve 2 4 collar 2 5 hood 2 6 hood facing 2 7 sleeve cuff 2 8 bottom-leg cuff 2 9 zipper shield 1 10 snap band 1
Lining jersey lining fabric 1 front 2 -1A lower front-leg panel - 2 2 back 2 -2A lower back-leg panel - 2 3 sleeve 2 -3 lower sleeve panel - 2 5 hood 2 -Batting 1+1A front 2 2+2A back 2 3 sleeve 2 4 collar 1 5 hood 2
PATTERN SHEET
C
black1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1A
2A
1
2
1A
2A
3
3
5
Shell LiningJoining shell and lining: Pin and stitch
bottom edge of inner collar piece to neckline of lining right sides together. Clip neckline seam allowances along curves. Fold zipper shield piece in half, right sides together, and stitch its top and bottom edges. Turn zipper shield right side out, press it and machine-baste its open edges together. Pin zipper to right edge of zipper shield as marked on pattern, turn end of right zipper tape under and machine-baste right zipper tape to zipper shield.
Fold top end of zipper shield back onto zipper and machine-baste in position. Open zipper. Pin and stitch zipper to center-front edges of lining and inner collar piece, with wrong side of zipper facing right side of lining and aligning top end of zipper with top edge of collar. Pin and stitch neckline seam allowances of shell and lining together, starting from center-back mark and stitching as far along front panels as possible. Place lining within shell wrong sides together and
place sleeves and legs within one another. Secure bottom edges of lining sleeves to bottom edges of shell sleeves with a couple of pins from right side, making sure that lining sleeves are not twisted. Push your hand between shell and lining through garment’s front edges and pull bottom edges of sleeves out one at a time. Stitch sleeve edges of shell and lining right sides together, with sleeve cuffs in between. Pin and stitch bottom edges of legs of shell and lining together in the
same way. Turn center-front seam allow-ances of shell to wrong side, pin center-front edges of shell to zipper placket edges of lining and stitch them in place close to edge.
Finishing: Attach socket halves of snap
fasteners to bottom edge of hood; deter-mine placement of snaps to match snap halves on collar. Steam elastics at bottom edges of sleeves and legs to shrink them back to their actual length.
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 beanie panel, exterior 2
1 beanie panel, lining 2
beak, design C star, design D
PATTERN SHEET
C
red15. Eye See You
beanie
head circumference 48-50-52-54-56 cm
Pages 4-6, 11, 13-15
MATERIALS
- 30-35 cm jersey, knit terry, velour knit, fleece or similar stretch material with stretch/recovery of 20-30%
Design A: knit terry (CO/PES) for
exterior and cotton single jersey (CO/EL) for lining
Design B and C: fleece for exterior
and cotton single jersey (CO/EL) for lining
Design D: wide-striped and
narrow-striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL) for exterior and lining
For embellishments:
Design A: label to be inserted into
seam
Design B: two pairs of iron-on eyes Design C: pair of iron-on eyes,
piece of yellow fabric and piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Vliesofix
Design D: iron-on vinyl
CUTTING
Exterior: Cut exterior panels from knit,
adding 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. On design D, front panel is cut from wide-striped and back panel from narrow-striped jersey.
Lining: Cut lining panels from knit, adding
5 mm seam allowances to all edges. Note that bottom edge of lining is cut along pattern lines marking foldlines of beanie exterior without adding seam allowance.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine.
Preparation:
Design A: Machine-baste label to side
edge of exterior front panel, placing it 6 cm above bottom-edge foldline.
Designs B and C: Fuse pairs of eyes on
exterior panels by ironing, placing their bottom edges approx. 6 cm above bot-tom-edge foldline.
Design D: Cut a circle from iron-on vinyl
and cut star-shaped opening in the middle of it. Fuse vinyl circle to exterior front panel by ironing, placing its bottom edge 6 cm above bottom-edge foldline.
Joining: Stitch darts on beanie exterior
and lining panels. Place exterior panels right sides together and stitch side/top seam. Stitch lining panels together in the same way. Place lining within beanie exte-rior wrong sides together, aligning its bot-tom edge with foldline on beanie exterior. Fold and pin hem at bottom edge of
bean-ie exterior and stitch it with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch (e.g. honeycomb stitch) on regular sewing machine.
Finishing, design C: Trace bird’s beak on
paper backing of fusible web. Iron fusible web onto wrong side of yellow fabric and cut beak out along its outlines. Remove paper backing from fusible web and fuse beak to beanie by ironing, placing it be-tween eyes. Stitch beak in place with straight stitch or with narrow, short zigzag stitch.
16. Mushroom
jersey top 92-98-104-110-116-122 cm
Page 12
MATERIALS
- 50-50-50-55-55-60 cm printed cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 20 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width 90 cm - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 CUTTING
Cut neckline binding, sleeve cuffs and pocket welts from ribbing and other gar-ment pieces from single jersey as indi-cated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to other edges.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch pockets with straight stitch and finish seams on them with serger or zigzag
stitch. Stitch bottom hem and topstitch attachment seams of neckline binding and sleeve cuffs with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch).
Stabilizing: Cut 1 cm wide strips from
interfacing and fuse them to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel (measure required length of strips on pattern piece and add seam allow-ances). Fuse pieces of interfacing to front panel over pattern lines marking pocket openings. See areas shaded in grey on small-scale pattern pieces.
Pockets: Stitch guide stitching for both
pocket openings on front panel with straight stitch (cut out portion of pocket opening from pattern piece for front and use pattern as template for stitching). Fold pocket welt in half wrong sides to-gether. Stitch folded welt to edge of pocket opening closest to center-front line on right side of front panel; make sure to stitch along guide stitching and to start and end stitching at marked seamlines at ends of pocket opening. Pin straight edge of outer pocket piece to edge of pocket welt right sides together and stitch it in place along previous stitching line. Pin inner pocket piece to the other edge
of pocket opening right sides together and stitch it in place along guide stitching. Slash pocket opening observing pattern markings; note that corners of pocket opening are clipped diagonally to guide stitching. Fold both pocket pieces to wrong side. Understitch seam allowances at attachment edge of outer pocket piece to pocket piece close to seamline. Pin triangles, formed at each end of pocket opening, to inner pocket piece and pocket welt and stitch ends of pocket opening along guide stitching. Pin pocket pieces right sides together and stitch them to-gether. Finish pocket seam allowances together. >>>
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 front 1
2 back 1
3 sleeve 2
4 inner pocket piece 2
5 outer pocket piece 2
6 neckline binding 1
7 sleeve cuff 2
8 pocket welt 2
PATTERN SHEET
B
grey1
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
A
B
C
D
17. French Drops
outerwear jacket
86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm
Pages 11, 13