Create any Size - Pattern Grading for Sewers

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Craftsy.com 1 © Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

CONTINUED > SUPPLIES

• Cardboard grid to protect table

• Permanent markers in different colors

• Micro/ extra-fine tip permanent felt pen (Sharpie or other), in black and red

• Old business cards, index cards or card stock

• Highlighter

• Paper scissors

• Pattern weights

• Clear grading ruler

• French curve

• Kraft paper

• Kathleen uses Rainbow brand Colored Kraft Duo-Finish in light blue; available at teacher and classroom supply stores or online at

mpmschoolsupplies.com • Transparent tape

• Pattern awl

• Pattern paper, resilient for tracing patterns

• Needle wheel

SUGGESTED READING

• Grading Workbook by Connie Amaden-Crawford

(Fashion Patterns By Coni, 2011)

• Master Patterns and Grading for Women's

Outsizes by Gerry Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1995) • Pattern Grading for Women's Clothes by Gerry

Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991)

• Pattern Grading for Children's Clothes by Gerry

• Pattern Grading for Men's Clothes by Gerry

• The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella (Apparel

Technical Services, 1998)

• Concepts of Pattern Grading by Carolyn L Moore,

Kathy K Mullet & Margaret Prevatt Young (Fairchild Books, second edition 2008)

• Grading Techniques for Fashion Design by Jeanne

Price & Bernard Zamkoff (Fairchild Publications, second edition 1996)

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with

Kathleen Cheetham

CREATE ANY SIZE: PATTERN GRADING FOR SEWERS

Supplies & Resources

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Grade (noun) The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size, e.g., 2" be-tween size 12 and 14; or the incremental growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.

Grade (verb) To proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern.

Total or overall grade The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size. For exam-ple, 2" between size 12 and 14.

Allocated grade The portion of the total grade to be applied to one pattern piece. Incremental grade The growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.

Nest or graded nest A set of graded pattern pieces stacked, illustrating the difference in each size. You will also see graded nests in multi-size patterns.

Cardinal points The places on a pattern piece where we will insert or take away room to in-crease/decrease its size.

Grade rule library Also called Grade Rule Table or Chart; a list of cardinal points along with their grade increments for each pattern piece.

Base size Also called the master pattern; the original (usually middle) pattern size that is graded up and down to create the full size range

Production pattern A master pattern which has been graded for all of its sizes.

True up or truing Checking the graded pattern pieces to ensure they fit accurately together at their connecting seams.

Size run The sizes in a specific style, such as 4, 6, 8, 10, 12

Machine grading Mechanically moving a pattern to grade. When this method is used, the pattern is clamped into the grading machine and a knob is turned to set the grading increment.

Computer grading The base pattern is first digitized, then grade rules are applied using software to create the new sizes.

Manual/hand grading Grading on paper using ruler and pencil.

Cut and spread grading Manually grading by cutting the pattern apart along cardinal points, then either spreading to grade up or overlapping to grade down.

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CONTINUED > GARMENT SIZE CHART

BASE

SIZE 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm

Bust 30 77 32 82 34 87 36 92 38 97 40 102 42 107 44 112 46 117 48 122 50 127

Waist 22 57 24 62 26 67 28 72 30 77 32 82 34 87 36 92 38 97 40 102 42 107

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CONTINUED >

Charts

PATTERN GRADING CHART

CARDINAL

POINTS FORMULA PLACEMENT 2" (5 CM) GRADE1 SIZE 4" (10 CM) GRADE2 SIZES

Top/Blouse Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

Front & Back ¼ of the full grade of 2" or 5 cm

1 and 6 ¼ of allocated grade _{½" or 1.25 cm} Midpoint of neckline to waist 1_/₈_" _{.31 cm} _¼" _{.62 cm}

2 and 7 ¼ Shoulder seam to waist 1_/₈_" _{.31 cm} _¼" _{.62 cm}

3 and 8 ½ Lower armscye to waist ¼" .62 cm ½" 1.25 cm

Circumference check 4_/₈_" _{1.25 cm} _1" _{2.5 cm}

4 and 9 ¼ Center front or center back to armscye 1_/₈_" _{.31 cm} _¼" _{.62 cm}

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CARDINAL

Skirt Front & Back Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

11 and 16 ¼ Waist to hem: halfway between center front

and first dart 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

12 and 17 ¼ Waist to hem: halfway between first

and second dart 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

13 and 18 ½ Waist to hem: halfway between second dart

and side seam ¼" .62 cm ½" 1.25 cm

14 and 19 ½ Hip line: center front or center back _{to side seam} ¼" .62 cm ½" 1.25 cm

15 and 20 ½ Knee: center front or center back

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CONTINUED >

Charts CARDINAL

Sleeve Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

21 ¼ Midway under arm and center front notch

to hem 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

22 ¼ Midway center front notch

and shoulder notch to hem 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

23 ¼ Midway shoulder notch

and center back notch to hem 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

24 ¼ Midway center back notch _{and under arm to hem} 1_/₈_" _{.31 cm} _¼" _{.62 cm}

25 ¼ Section sleeve cap roughly in half

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CONTINUED > PATTERN GRADING CHART TEMPLATE

CARDINAL

Top/Blouse Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

Front & Back ¼ of the full grade of

2" or 5 cm " cm " cm

1 and 6 ¼ of allocated grade _{½" or 1.25 cm} Midpoint of neckline to waist " cm " cm

2 and 7 ¼ Shoulder seam to waist " cm " cm

3 and 8 ½ Lower armscye to waist " cm " cm

Circumference check 4_/₈_" _{1.25 cm} _1" _{2.5 cm}

4 and 9 ¼ Center front or center back to armscye " cm " cm

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CONTINUED >

Charts CARDINAL

Skirt Front & Back Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

11 and 16 ¼ Waist to hem: halfway between center front

and first dart " cm " cm

12 and 17 ¼ Waist to hem: halfway between first

and second dart " cm " cm

13 and 18 ½ Waist to hem: halfway between second dart

and side seam " cm " cm

14 and 19 ½ Hip line: center front or center back _{to side seam} " cm " cm

15 and 20 ½ Knee: center front or center back

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CARDINAL

Sleeve Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

21 ¼ Midway under arm and center front notch

to hem " cm " cm

22 ¼ Midway center front notch

and shoulder notch to hem " cm " cm

23 ¼ Midway shoulder notch

and center back notch to hem " cm " cm

24 ¼ Midway center back notch _{and under arm to hem} " cm " cm

25 ¼ Section sleeve cap roughly in half

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Create Any Size:

Pattern Grading for Sewers

with Kathleen Cheetham

10 © Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

BLOUSE BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

Back

(cut one on fold)

SIZE 14 6 7 8 9 10 19 CB CB

Blouse Practise Pattern Pieces

Back

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SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)(cut two) SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

Back

(cut one on fold)

Bust Point

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)(cut two)

Front CF CF SIZE 14 SIZE 14 SIZE 14 1 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 14 19 CB CB Sleeve 24 21 22 23 25

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BLOUSE FACINGS & COLLAR

SE AM A LL O W ANCE 3/8 I N (1 CM) (cut two fa br

ic, cut one inter

fa

cing)

CB

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM) Front Facing (cut two fabric, cut two interfacing)

CF CF

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM) (cut one fabric, cut one interfacing)Back Facing

Co lla r SI ZE 14 SIZE 14 SIZE 14

Blouse Practise Pattern Pieces

Facings and Collar

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BLOUSE FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN

Bust Point

Front CF CF SIZE 14 1 2 3 4 5 14

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SKIRT BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

Back CB 16 17 18 19 20

Skirt Back

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Front

11 12 13

14

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16

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CF CB CB CB _CF CB SS SS SS SS

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18

SLEEVE PRACTICE PATTERN

SIZE 14 Sleeve

24

21 22 23

25

Blouse Practise Pattern Pieces

Sleeve

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cut one on fold SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in CE NT RE BACK - p la ce o n f ol d

Sleeveless Top - Back

CB

6

8

9

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SLEEVELESS TOP FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN

cut one on fold SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in CE NT RE F RO NT - p lac e o n f old

Sleeveless Top - Front

CF 1 2 3 4 5

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Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers

PRACTICE PATTERN

cut one on fold

SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in CE NT RE F RO NT - p lac e o n f old

cut one on fold

SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in

CENTRE BACK - place on fold

Sleeveless Top - Front Sleeveless Top - Back

CF 1 3 4 5 8 9 10

cut one on fold

SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in CE NT RE F RO NT - p lac e o n f old

cut one on fold

SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in

CENTRE BACK - place on fold

Sleeveless Top - Front Sleeveless Top - Back

CF 1 3 4 5 8 9 10