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Glossary of Japanese Terms

agehama

an old, very labour-intensive technique for

producing salt from seawater. The seawater is repeatedly

poured over sandy terraces on the beach to evaporate

some of the water and concentrate the salt content. The

resulting briny liquid is then heated in special drying ovens

to extract the salt.

aka-miso

red miso made with rice.

amazu-zuke

tsukemono marinated in vinegar with sugar

added to it.

amazake

(β€˜sweet sake’) sweet, non-alcoholic drink, made

by fermenting rice with rice koji; sometimes flavoured with

ginger. Amazake can be used to make koji-zuke.

ao-nori

dried seaweed or seaweed sheets produced from

green marine algae, for example, Monostroma or Ulva.

asa-zuke

(β€˜shallow pickling’) tsukemono prepared over a

very short period of time, anywhere from thirty minutes

(for sokuseki-zuke) to overnight (ichiya-zuke). The most

quickly and easily made varieties (shio-zuke) are prepared

simply by rubbing the vegetables with salt and placing

them in a sealed bag.

beni-shoga

pickled, fresh ginger shoots or sliced ginger

root that are first salted and then marinated in vinegar;

often in plum vinegar (umezu).

bento

meal served in a box that is divided into

compart-ments.

bettara-zuke

classical type of koji-zuke from the Tokyo

area made from daikon that is placed in a marinade of

sugar, salt, and sake together with koji. It has a sticky and

moist mouthfeel.

(3)

dashi

(β€˜boiled extract’) broth based on an extract of a

seaweed (konbu) and bonito fish flakes (katsuobushi). First

dashi (ichiban dashi) and second dashi (niban dashi) refer

to the first and second extracts, respectively. Konbu dashi is

based entirely on konbu. Shojin dashi is a purely vegetarian

dashi, in which mushrooms (shiitake) replace the

katsuo-bushi. Dashi is the principal source of umami in Japanese

cuisine.

doko

fermentation medium made from bran, for example,

rice bran (nuka-doko) or wheat bran.

fu

Japanese expression for wheat gluten, also known in

Chinese as seitan; in raw form it is nama fu and roasted or

dried it is known as yaki fu.

fukujin-zuke

the best known and most common type of

shoyu-zuke, made from daikon, cucumbers, aubergines,

sword beans, and lotus roots. It can be served as a relish or

chutney with rice and curry dishes.

furu-zuke

tsukemono that, in contrast to asa-zuke, are

pre-pared over a long period of time, often involving

fermen-tation, for example, nuka-zuke and nara-zuke.

gari

sushi-bar slang for sweet and sour pickled

gin-ger root, a type of amazu-zuke; often sliced very thinly

and served with sushi and coloured with red shiso. The

Japanese name for ginger root is shoga.

haiku

short Japanese poem traditionally written in

seven-teen syllables.

hakusai-zuke

shio-zuke made from Chinese cabbage

(Brassica rapa), often mixed with carrots and cucumber

and seasoned with konbu, togorashi-chili, and yuzu peel.

Hakusai- zuke are eaten as a salad or as a condiment, for

example, with fish dishes.

(4)

hashi-yasume

(β€˜vacation for the chopsticks’) denotes a

time when the chopsticks are given a rest while one eats a

very small portion of tsukemono.

iburi-gakko

speciality from the Akita Prefecture; made

from daikon which is smoked, often using cherry wood,

and then immersed in nuka-doko.

ichiya-zuke

pickles that are allowed to cure overnight

,

also

referred to as asa-zuke.

ita-zuri

age-old Japanese technique in which vegetables

are rubbed thoroughly with salt before they are pickled.

This helps to soften the vegetables and tenderize the skin,

and it increases the amount of water that can be drawn

out of them.

kabocha

Japanese pumpkin (Cucurbita moschata).

kabu

Japanese turnip (Brassica campestris var. glabra).

kaiseki

formal Japanese meal, in which the dishes are

pre-sented in a prescribed order. Great emphasis is placed on

serving fresh produce that is in season. Cha-kaiseki is the

formal meal that is served before a Japanese tea ceremony.

kansha

Japanese expression that encompasses placing

value on something. It is used in connection with food,

especially vegetables, as a way to acknowledge Nature’s

gifts and human ability to convert these into delicious

meals.

karashi

strong Japanese mustard (Brassica nigra, Brassica

juncea, Sinapis alba).

karashi-zuke

tsukemono made with karashi.

kasu

lees.

kasu-zuke

tsukemono marinated in kasu.

(5)

koji

fermentation medium made from rice, barley, or

soy bean paste that is seeded with spores from the

fun-gus Aspergillus oryzae. Koji-kin is a freeze-dried product,

which is a mixture of spores and rice flour and that can be

used as a starter for a koji culture.

koji-zuke

tsukemono prepared using the special

fermenta-tion medium koji, which, among other ingredients,

con-tains microscopic fungi (Aspergillus oryzae).

komesu

traditional Japanese rice vinegar made from

pol-ished brown rice.

kurosu

traditional Japanese rice vinegar made from

unpolished black rice.

konbu

(kombu) species of large brown alga (Saccharina

japonica). Among other uses, it is the essential ingredient

in dashi. Konbu contains large quantities of free glutamate

and is a source of umami.

konbu-tsukudani

konbu simmered in mirin and soy sauce.

konomono

(β€˜pickled things with a pleasant aroma’) older

expression for tsukemono.

kyuri

Japanese cucumber (Cucumis sativus).

kyuri asa-zuke

quickly pickled asa-zuke made with

Japanese cucumbers.

maki-zushi

sushi roll, with a sheet of nori wrapped either

inside it or around it.

mirin

sweet rice wine with ca. 14 percent alcohol content;

made from cooked rice that is seeded with the fungus

Aspergillus oryzae. The rice is mixed with shochu, distilled

rice brandy. The enzymes in the fungus break down the

starch in the rice to sugar and its proteins to free amino

acids, among them glutamate, which impart umami. Mirin

is not drunk on its own but is used exclusively to season

food.

miso

paste made from soybeans, sometimes mixed with

a cereal grain, that is fermented with the help of salt and

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quantities of free amino acids, especially glutamate. The

salt content varies from 5–15 percent. Common types are

white miso (shiro-miso), red miso (aka-miso), yellow or

light brown miso (shinshu-miso), and barley miso

(mugo-miso). Miso soup is a light Japanese soup made with dashi,

to which miso is added.

miso-doko

miso fermentation medium, used to make

miso-zuke.

miso-zuke

tsukemono made with vegetables pickled in

miso, for example, aka-miso. Nasu-miso are miso-zuke

made with aubergines.

moromi

thick paste of grains and soybeans that

under-goes slow fermentation as one stage of the process that is

used to produce Japanese soy sauce, shoyu.

moshio

traditional Japanese sea salt produced by

boil-ing and reducboil-ing seawater to which seaweed ash has been

added.

mottainai

Buddhist expression that refers to feelings of

regret and sadness caused by having allowed something to

go to waste or be misused.

nara-zuke

one of the best known and tastiest kind of

kasu- zuke. It is made from a variety of vegetables, but

cucumbers, marrows, and Japanese pickling melons (uri)

result in a good texture. The longer the ingredients are left

in the marinade, the darker their colour. Typically, these

pickles keep well, up to several years.

nara-zushi

the oldest form of sushi, in which rice

fer-mented over a long period of time acts as a preservative

for the fish, for example, carp made into funa-zushi. The

rice is not eaten but discarded.

nasu karashi-zuke

tsukemono made from aubergines in a

marinade with karashi.

(7)

nori-tsukudani

nori (Porphyra) simmered in mirin and soy

sauce.

nozawana

the green stems and leaves of Japanese turnip

greens (Brassica campestris var. hakabura).

nuka

rice bran.

nuka-doko

(toku) fermentation medium made with rice

bran. One of its uses is for the preparation of takuan-zuke

made with daikon.

nuka-miso

(β€˜smelly women’) expression used to

character-ize those women whose hands take on a peculiar odour

and yellow colour from using them every day to stir the

nuka- doko, the rice bran fermentation medium used to

make certain types of tsukemono.

nuka-zuke

tsukemono prepared by placing vegetables in a

rice bran fermentation medium (nuka-doko), for example,

takuan-zuke.

okoko

another name for oshinko.

oshinko

(shinko) salt pickled vegetables, often lightly

pick-led, that are not completely preserved. Oshinko in the form

of takuan-zuke are used to make oshinko-maki.

ponzu

liquid seasoning composed of soy sauce, dashi, and

yuzu juice, to which a little sake is sometimes added; can

be used as a marinade.

rakkyo

su-zuke made with Chinese onions (Allium chinense)

or possibly spring onions or shallots.

ramen

wheat flour noodles.

ryorishu

cooking sake; contains less alcohol and may have

a 2–3 percent salt content that makes it unfit for drinking.

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sake-kasu

sake lees.

sakura

cherry blossoms. Sakura no hana no shio-zuke are

salt pickled cherry blossoms.

sakura-mochi

ball of sweet glutinous rice with a pickled

cherry leaf wrapped around.

sansho

type of Japanese pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum),

which is similar to Chinese Sichuan pepper.

sashimi

sliced raw fish or shellfish.

sato-zuke

a type of tsukemono which is distinguished

from other kinds because no salt is involved in its

prepara-tion. Sato-zuke it is made by candying the ingredients in a

sugar solution that is allowed to simmer for several days.

Sato-zuke are similar to candied fruit. It is often made

with Asian pickling melon, lotus roots, ginger root, ume,

and yuzu peels.

senmai-zuke

(β€˜pickling in a thousand layers’) speciality

from Kyoto, made up of paper-thin slices of turnip (kabu)

placed in a barrel together with konbu in a marinade of

sweet rice vinegar.

shiba-zuke

salt pickled aubergines and cucumbers,

typi-cally coloured and seasoned with red shiso.

Shinto

(β€˜way of the gods’) traditional religion of Japan

that emphasizes the divinity that is manifested in natural

objects.

shio

Japanese expression for sea salt.

shio-furi

brining that occurs when salt is sprinkled on

fresh vegetables, especially cut-up ones, allowing them to

β€˜sweat’ to extract water. They are then covered with water

or a marinade.

shio-koji

salted rice paste inoculated with koji. Ikitai

shio-koji is a filtered variety of shio-shio-koji that is clearer and flows

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shio-momi

brining by sprinkling salt onto especially thinly

sliced vegetables, stirring them, and pressing the salt into

them by hand.

shio-zuke

(β€˜shallow pickling’) the easiest and most quickly

made tsukemono, also called asa-zuke. The process takes

as little as thirty minutes or as long as overnight.

shiro-miso

white, sweet miso that is produced in Kyoto.

shiro-uri

salt pickled uri, often marinated in sake-kasu

(shio-uri kasu-zuke).

shiso

a herb from the mint family (Perilla frutecens), that

comes in three varieties, red (aka-jiso), green (ao-jiso), and

green-red (aoaka-jiso).

shiitake

mushroom (Lentinus edodes), which in dried

form contains large quantities of guanylate, a source of

synergistic umami.

shochu

distilled rice brandy with an alcohol content of

36–45 percent.

shoga

Japanese word for ginger root (Zingiber officinale).

shojin ryori

classical, vegetarian temple food prepared in

accordance with Buddhist precepts. It was first introduced

into Japanese temples in the sixth century CE but was

not widely known until the arrival of the Zen school of

Buddhism about 700 years later. The meals consist

princi-pally of products based on soybeans, including tofu, miso,

and shoyu, as well as fungi, seaweeds, and fu.

shokutaku tsukemono ki

pickling barrel for making

tsuke-mono; now generally refers to modern plastic crocks.

shoyu

Japanese soy sauce.

shoyu-zuke

tsukemono marinated in a mixture of soy

sauce and sake or, possibly, mirin if the pickles are to be

sweeter. An example of this type is fukujin-zuke.

soba

buckwheat noodles.

(10)

sunomono

(β€˜things that allow themselves to be prepared

with rice vinegar’) these can be side dishes such as a little

salad, with or without greens, in a tart marinade.

sushi

Japanese food style made with cooked sweet, sour,

and salty white rice combined, for example, with raw fish,

shellfish, seaweed, vegetables, omelette, and mushrooms.

su-zuke

tsukemono marinated in rice vinegar (su).

takuan-zuke

nuka-zuke made with daikon, often coloured

with turmeric so that it turns yellow. It is thought to have

been named after a Zen monk, Takuan Soho (1573–1645).

tamanegi

yellow onions (Allium cepa).

takana-zuke

tsukemono of Japanese mustard leaf

(Brassica jucea var. integrifolia).

taru

traditional wooden barrel made from cedar or

cypress wood, used for pickling and fermenting.

tataki

preparation technique for raw fish. The filet is

either chopped finely or seared quickly on all surfaces.

tawashi

traditional kitchen scrub brush made from hemp

fibre.

ten mori

(β€˜heavenly arrangement’) arrangement of finely

sliced seafood or tsukemono pressed together in the palms

of the hands to form a cylinder or pyramid that is made to

stand on a plate so that it seems to be pointing heavenward.

teriyaki

grilled fish, chicken, and vegetables dipped in a

sauce made from flour, mirin, sake, and sugar.

tofu

coagulated protein-rich solid prepared from soy milk.

togorashi

Japanese chili.

tsuke

something that has been soaked or marinated.

When it follows another word, tsuke is changed to –zuke.

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β€˜some-thing that has been soaked or marinated,’ from tsuke

meaning β€˜hydrated’ and mono meaning β€˜thing.’

tsukudani

a method for preparing and conserving

vegeta-bles, seaweed, fish, and shellfish. In contrast to tsukemono,

which are prepared cold, it involves using heat to simmer the

ingredients over a long period of time in soy sauce, mirin,

and sugar until they are either dry or sticky. Examples made

with seaweed include konbu-tsukudani and nori-tsukudani.

udon

thick, soft wheat noodles.

umami

(β€˜delicious essence’) Japanese expression for the

fifth basic taste, a term suggested by the Japanese chemist

Kikunae Ikeda in 1909Β in connection with the

identifica-tion of glutamate derived from the konbu in dashi. Umami

has two components, a basal one from free glutamate,

and a synergistic part due to the simultaneous presence of

5'-ribonucleotides especially inosinate found, for example,

in katsuobushi and guanylate from shiitake.

ume

small stone fruit (Prunus mume) that is like an

apri-cot or a plum; cultivated in Japan. The wine made with it

is sometimes referred to as β€˜plum wine.’

umeboshi

expression for the most traditional type of salt

pickled tsukemono (shio-zuke). The word combines the

name of the fruit, ume, with boshi meaning β€˜dried.’

umezu

vinegar made from ume.

uri

Asian pickling melon (Cucumis melo var. conomon)

that is very well suited for making tsukemono, for example,

shiro- uri kasu-zuke, which is uri marinated in sake lees.

wabi

complex esthetic concept that is used to

character-ize a person, thing, or form of life that exhibits modesty,

humility, loneliness, sadness, simplicity, or stillness.

wakame

brown seaweed species (Undaria pinnatifada);

often incorporated into soups and marinades for

prepar-ing tsukemono.

(12)

wasabi

Japanese horseradish (Wasabia japonica).

yukari

salted, dried red shiso.

yuzu

small Japanese citrus fruit (Citrus junus) with a more

aromatic taste than a lemon.

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Illustration Credits

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cassava 140 cauliflower 10, 20 celery 116 cell – membrane 47 – structure 53 – walls 46–49, 53, 78 cellulose 46, 47, 49 cereals 8, 65 champignon 8 cherry blossom(s) 120, 121 chewing 14 chili 93, 107, 128 China 15, 129, 130 Chinese radish 55 – See also daikon chutney 26 citric acid 114 climate change 10 comfort food 3 condiments 15, 102, 114, 148 conserving 141 – in Japan 16, 17, 44, 46 cornichons 77

country cooking, Japanese 124 crispness 87, 98, 107 cross-binding 39 cross-linking 49 crunchy 3, 11, 14, 23, 28, 82, 85, 89, 97, 101, 149 cucumber – pickled 17, 76–78 – salad 2, 20, 76, 77, 85 – texture 30 cucumber, pickles – fukujin-zuke 26, 84, 130 – furu-zuke 129 – kasu-zuke 65–66 – kimchi 75 – nara-zuke 30 – shio-zuke 20 – tsukemono 17, 76 culinary arts 2–6, 12 cultured milk products 139 curing 2, 6 curry 26

D

daikon 15, 28, 48, 51, 54, 55, 58, 61, 69, 71, 75, 93, 97, 98, 102, 127, 128, 133, 143, 148, 152 – iburi-gakko 102 – nara-zuke 86, 131 – nuka-zuke 69 – shoyu-zuke 26 – takuan 28, 69 – See also Chinese radish

dashi 4, 5, 84–86, 94, 95, 97, 102, 125, 153 dehydration 2, 20 dehydrator 20, 82, 85, 86, 94, 99 deliciousness 10 diabetes 140 dietary fibre 10, 46, 47, 50, 53, 136, 143, 145 dietary habits 9 diffusion process 52 digestion 2, 137, 138, 140 dill 39, 77, 78, 116 doko 116, 153 dry-salting 85 drying 18, 37, 48, 52, 125 dulse 92, 102

E

EAT-Lancet Commission 9 Edo period 16 egg(s) 89, 90, 93, 101, 115 enzymatic activity 44, 51, 60, 137 enzymes – digestive 141 – in fungus 63 – in koji 32, 45, 60, 66, 73, 93 – in vegetables 32, 39, 44, 60, 136, 139 evolution 6, 9

F

fats 26 fermentation 2, 5, 6, 18, 54, 55, 58, 60, 62, 63, 65, 68, 69, 73–76, 82, 83, 104, 107, 137, 139–144 – barrel 6, 63, 133 – crock 5, 57, 61, 82, 112 – and health 140 – in Japan 2, 55, 60, 72, 75 – medium 15, 30, 45, 55, 58, 63, 65, 69–71, 133 – of vegetables 5, 57

– See also lactic acid fermentation

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fracturing 48 freeze-drying 50, 53 freezing 44 fruit(s) 2, 8–10, 12, 16, 18, 21, 36, 82, 118, 125, 128, 148 fukujin-zuke 26, 33, 130, 153 full-sour 77 fungus – culture 19 – spores 45 furu-zuke 17, 83, 84, 94, 98, 100–102, 104, 129, 153

G

gari 23, 33, 40, 114, 115, 153 garlic 32, 82, 110, 111 gel 39, 47, 50 gelatinization 47 gherkins 84–86

ginger, ginger root 23, 65, 71, 75, 114, 115 glutamate 9

goat cheese 113 greengage plums 118 Gunma Prefecture 126, 127

H

Hachisu, Nancy Singleton 124, 125

haiku 36, 153 hakusai 20, 21, 32, 107, 128 – -zuke 20, 107, 128, 153 half-sour 77 hanami 120, 153 hashi-yasume 20, 154 health 3, 37, 41, 71, 139, 140 – and tsukemono 3 hearing, sense of 3 hemicellulose 47 herbs 8, 83, 115 herring, pickled 17 hibiscus 41 Hiroshige, Utagawa 38 Hokkaido pumpkin 67 homeostatic mechanism 142 horseradish 116 household vinegar 61, 76 Hubbard squash 112 human microbiota 136 humidity control 28, 49 hydrogels 39, 53 hydrolyzed protein 16 hygiene 137

I

iburi-gakko 28, 33, 102, 154 ichiya-zuke 152, 154 ikitai shio-koji 45, 46, 73 immune system 141 insects 45 intestine 136, 139 ion exchange system 37

ita-zuri 85, 154

J

Japan 5, 14–20, 23, 28, 29, 31, 32, 36, 37, 51, 61, 65, 97, 100, 118, 120, 123–134, 136, 144, 148, 149 – food culture 4, 124, 148 Jerusalem artichoke 88–92, 101 – miso-zuke 82, 88–92, 101 juicy 11

K

Kabayashi, Masami 129 kabocha 154 kabu 33, 154, 158 kaiseki 15, 148, 154 kale 107 Kansai Prefecture 128 kansha 148, 149, 154 Kanto Prefecture 128 karashi 18, 70, 154 – -zuke 30, 154, 156 kasu-zuke 2, 5, 16, 30, 32, 65–66, 148, 154 katsuobushi 4, 101, 154 Kayatsu Shrine 126 keeping qualities 44, 51, 65, 83, 143 – of tsukemono 44, 51, 65, 83, 143 kelp 8, 70 kidney beans 79 kimchi 75 kohlrabi 82, 94–96, 101, 102, 116 – shio-zuke 118 koi-kuchi 128 koji 155 – enzymes 32, 45, 60, 66, 73, 93 – production 32, 45

koji, pickling with

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konbu 4, 18, 20, 24, 25, 40, 71, 83–86, 94, 95,

97, 102, 116, 128, 155 – tsukudani 15, 155

konomono 2, 19, 155

Korea 144

kosher dill pickles 77

kurosu 61, 155 Kyoto 24, 100, 131, 132 Kyuri 155 – asa-zuke 2, 148, 155 – shoyu-zuke 26 – zuke 26, 33

L

lacinato kale 107 lactic acid – bacteria 6, 12, 45, 58, 60, 63, 65, 67–69, 75, 76, 137, 139 – fermentation 56, 67, 87, 104, 107, 109, 112 Lactobacillus 68 – plantarum 68 leeks 22 legumes 8 lemon(s) 30, 39, 65, 83, 85, 94, 110, 116 lentils 78 Leuconostoc mesenteroide 68 lignin 49 lipases 32 longueur 18 lotus root 23 lunch bag 116, 118

M

mackerel 102–104 macronutrients 136 Maebashi 129 magnesium 18, 37, 39, 50, 77 – ions 50, 77 Maillard products 40 maki-sushi 118, 119, 155 malic acid 137 marinade(s) 19, 24, 32, 40, 82, 83, 85, 86, 94, 95, 97–99, 102, 103, 107, 114, 129, 130 marinating 2, 83, 86, 87, 94 Marmite 16 marrow(s) 8, 32 matcha takuan-zuke 33 mealy 49, 78 meat 8, 10, 115 Meiji Period 45 melon 2, 23, 82 metals 57 Metchnikoffs, Elie 139 micro-nutrients 10 microorganisms 18, 21, 39, 44, 45, 50, 60, 61, 63, 66–69, 71, 125, 137, 140, 144 – benign 66 – See also bacteria milk 67, 75, 139 millet 65 minerals 10 mirin 30, 82, 103, 155 miso – marinating 2, 12, 32, 61–66, 82, 87 – production 45, 65, 69 – salt content 36, 64, 65 – soup 2–5, 148 – taste 32, 62, 64

miso, pickling with

– -doko 64, 156 – -zuke 5, 32, 39, 54, 64–65, 82, 156 mono 2 monosodium glutamate 40, 41 moromi 63, 156 moshio 37, 142, 156 mottainai 16, 156 mould 51, 63, 68, 72 mouthfeel – tsukemono 3, 12, 14, 20, 28, 32, 36, 37, 46, 102, 149 – vegetables 10, 11, 20, 36, 37, 39, 40, 46, 49, 148

MSG, see monosodium glutamate Murakami-ju 131, 132 mustard 18, 30, 70, 76 mustard leaves 138

N

Nagano Prefecture 100 Nagoya 126

nani wanakutomo ko no mono 14

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nuka 157 – -doko 16, 27, 28, 40, 55, 69–71, 87, 97, 133, 139, 157 – -miso 55, 157 – -zuke 15, 54, 69–72, 90, 131, 139, 148, 157 nutrients 10, 11, 47, 58, 70, 136, 137, 139, 140, 144 – bioavailability 138 nutritional value 2, 9, 15, 44, 61–62, 65 nuts 8

O

ofukuro no aji 3 okoko 2, 157 onions 20, 22, 61, 75, 78, 116, 127–129 Osaka 128 oshinko 2, 15, 157 – -maki 28 osmosis 58 oxidation 57, 60

P

pasta 97, 98 pasteurizing 44 pectin 39, 47, 49, 50, 53, 77, 78 pectinase 49 pepper – sansho 103 – togorashi 18, 24, 40, 70 pickles 2, 3, 14, 37, 38, 40, 86, 89, 97, 100, 101, 120, 124, 127, 128, 130, 131, 148, 149 pickling 16, 17, 32, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60–61, 139 – crock 3, 5, 18, 20, 54–57, 59, 67, 71, 82, 97, 119 – cucumber 76 – melon 2, 65, 82 – salting 5, 84, 86, 104, 112, 119 – See also marinating; salting Plant Kingdom 8 plum – greengage 118 – pickling 118, 119 – prune 2, 118, 119 – vinegar 121 – wine 2, 21, 118, 121 polysaccharides 40, 102 ponzu 83, 103, 104, 157 potassium – aluminium sulphate 78 – salts 143 potatoes 82 preservation – media 19 – techniques 5, 12 pressure 47, 50, 54, 56–59 proteases – in the diet 139 – hydrolyzed 16, 64 – and Maillard products 40 – proteins 11, 32, 45, 63, 66, 141 – in vegetables 32 Prunus mume 118 pumpkin 110

Q

quality of life 140 quick pickling 61

R

radish – black 100, 102 – shio-zuke 58 rakkyo 22, 157 ramen 2, 157 rancidity 60, 70 raw food diet 11 rehydration 53 relish 106 remoulade 116 rhubarb 8 rice – boiled 72 – bran 3, 12, 15, 16, 19, 26–30, 55, 69, 71, 139 – brown 61 – flour 45 – paper 92 – polished 16, 26, 61, 66, 139 – for sushi 24 – vinegar 22, 61, 114, 125 rock salt 36 rye 65 rye bread 87, 115

S

Saccharomyces cerevisae 61 saffron 41 sake 157 – lees 3, 5, 12, 19, 61–66, 69, 84, 139 – See also sake-kazu

– marinating 15, 61–66

sake, in pickling 3, 5, 12, 16, 30, 32, 55, 65, 82, 84, 86

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sakura 158 – -mochi 120, 158 – no hana no shio-zuke 120, 121 salad 20, 76–79, 85, 107, 116, 149 – cucumber 2, 85 saliva 137, 141 – secretion 137, 141 salmon 102, 110 salt – daily intake 143 – and health 140, 143 – marinade 32 – and microorganisms 125 – pickling 18, 36, 60, 73, 138 – production 37 salt water 83 salting 18, 58, 61, 138–139 sansho 103, 158 sardines 101 sashimi 2, 22, 23, 24, 158 sato-zuke 23, 36, 158 sauerkraut 17, 75, 76 sea salt 18, 37, 83, 85, 92, 94, 98, 103 seasonings 2, 3, 85, 127 seawater 36, 37 seaweed 4, 8, 15, 16, 18, 20, 24, 36, 37, 39–41, 71, 75, 92, 98–99, 102, 143 – salt 37, 92 seeds 8, 84, 85, 110, 125 senmai-zuke 24, 33, 102, 148, 158 shallots 157 shellfish 15, 16, 23, 32, 115 shiba-zuke 33, 40, 130, 158 – tsukudani 40, 130 shiitake 26, 153, 159, 161 Shin-shin 129, 130 Shinto 37, 158 shio 158 – -furi 58, 59, 158 – -koji 45, 46, 59, 73, 74, 87, 93, 158 – -momi 58, 59, 159 – -zuke 20, 36, 39, 56, 58, 59, 107, 110, 159 shiro-miso 32, 159 shiro-uri 2, 159 shiso 2, 40, 114, 115, 118, 119, 130, 159 Shitara 126 Shitara, Hideyo 126 shochu 39, 45, 55, 66, 159 shoga 22, 159 shojin dashi 153 shojin ryori 159 shokutaku tsukemono ki 56, 159 shoyu 159 – -koji 74 – -zuke 74, 110, 159 slaked lime 78 slimy 102 smell of home 3, 131 smoked cheese 116 smoking 102, 150 smorgasbord 115 snack 20, 22, 89, 128 soba 14, 159 sodium benzoate 77 Soho, Takuan 28 soup powder 32, 49, 125 sourdough bread 113 sourdough starter 69 South Korea 144 soybean – oil 63 – paste 64 soy sauce 2, 15, 16, 32, 36, 41, 45, 61–66, 69, 74, 82, 98, 99, 103, 110, 125, 127, 128, 141 – marinating 16, 19, 61–66 – salt content 26, 63, 64 – taste 26, 61

– See also shoyu spices 17, 18, 107 spoilage bacteria 58, 68 squash 82, 112, 113, 116 starch 129 starter culture 67, 69, 72 sterilizing 77 stomach 139, 141 – cancer 145 strawberries 116 structure and texture 46

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– additives 65 – enhancers 39–41, 65, 144 – of home 3 – tsukemono 3, 37 tataki 110, 111, 160 tawashi 54, 55, 160 tea 15, 118, 120, 128 ten mori 149, 160 teriyaki 2, 160 terroir 66 texture of vegetables 18, 46, 74, 77, 110, 140 Todaiji Temple 15 tofu 32, 160 togorashi 18, 24, 40, 70, 160 Tohoku 128 Tokyo 16, 32, 126, 128 Tonegawa River 129 toxins 44, 140 Tsuji, Shizuo 3 tsuke 2, 160 tsukemono 160–161 – basic marinade 12, 18, 83 – colours of 39 – consumption 4 – definition 2 – dietary recommendations 143 – and esthetics 148, 149 – festivals 126 – and health 3, 37, 41, 136 – history 15, 118 – industrial production 127 – keeping qualities 44, 51, 65, 83, 143 – markets, sold at 15, 16, 126–127, 131 – mouthfeel 14, 36, 37, 39 – nutritional contents 2, 12, 15, 44, 62, 65 – presentation of 2, 149 – pronunciation 2 – recipes 19, 149 – serving 14, 15, 144 – shops 16, 131 – taste 2 – techniques 6, 18, 44 – texture 19 – tradition 3–6, 16, 51, 82 – varieties 14 – yearly production 40, 120 tsukudani 15, 161 tubers 8 turgidity 48 turnips 100–107, 127, 150

U

udon 125, 161 umami 4, 9–11, 16, 41, 86, 102, 107, 126, 128, 161 ume 21–23, 127, 128, 161 – shio-zuke 21, 22, 118 umeboshi 2, 21, 22, 32, 40, 118, 119, 128, 133, 161 – maki-sushi 119 umezu 121, 161 uri 30–32, 161 – nara-zuke 33, 82 usu-kuchi 128

V

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References

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