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W E D N E S D A Y , J U N E 2 9 , 2 0 1 1

The 2007 Barolo: Wines from Novello, Roddi,

Verduno, Castiglione Falletto, and Barolo

This year Nebbiolo Prima began with the 2008 Roero, followed by the 2008 Barbaresco and the 2007 Barolo; there were also a few

Barbaresco Riservas, and on the last day a number of 2005 Barolo Riserva wines. The afternoons were structured somewhat differently, with Monday afternoon dedicated to the 2001 vintage, a retrospective if you will, Tuesday and Thursday dedicated to winery visits and tastings, Wednesday free (and I did take advantage of that), and Friday an optional visit to Diano and Dogliani to taste Dolcetto di Diano and Dolcetto di Dogliani/Dogliani.

A full week, but both pleasant and profitable, and I learned quite a bit during the afternoon sessions, while the mornings were profitable as always.

To begin, a couple of words on the vintage.

With Barolo we had the 2007 vintage, which is more approachable than the 2006 we tasted last year, with many of the wines richer, more opulent, and readier to drink. This said, as vintages go it's not as good as the 2006, and though the bottles will work better in the short term (3-5 years and perhaps a little longer) the 2006 has, I think, much better potential for long-term ageing. This is not a bad thing; I found many 2007 wines that will be quite pleasant with foods (not as much in the way of meditation wines), and vintages that mature sooner are necessary, because they give us something to enjoy while we await the vintages that need time.

A final practical point: I took a terrific volume of notes in the course of the five days of Nebbiolo Prima. To put everything up at once would be unthinkable, and putting up all of the Barolo notes together would be awkward. So I will be posting Roero, Barbaresco, and then Barolo by Comune, in the space of several posts. The wines are listed in the order they were poured, which within the Communes is by

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Wines from Novello

Azienda Agricola Giribaldi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight rosa canina mingled with some balsamic notes and slight hints of sweetness. On the palate it's full and smooth, with fairly powerful slightly balsamic berry fruit supported by balsam laced acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long tannic finish with a balsamic underpinning and lasting warmth. I'd have liked a little more brightness to the acidity, which is a touch settled. This said, it is quite approachable and pleasingly smooth and rich.

2 stars

Piazzo Armando Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite young, with deft rosa canina mingled with spice and slight sweet accents, and also with pleasant greenish leaf tobacco accents. Nice depth, though it's very young. On the palate it's elegant, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth steely tannins that flow into a fairly long rather tannic finish. It's elegant in an approachable key, and though I'm not sure how long lived it will be quite pleasant in the short term (less than a decade) and add considerably to a meal built around a steak or a roast. 2 stars

Azienda Agricola Abbona Marziano Tario Ravera Barolo DOCG

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsam-laced rosa canina and spice mingled with Moroccan leather and some pungent spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense rather mineral fruit supported by peppery spice and tannins that are rather peppery, and flow into a clean peppery finish. It's approachable, but a touch settled, and I found myself wishing for brighter acidity than it displays. This said, it's very young, and needs time to come together and develop.

2 stars

Rattalino Trentacinque35 Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with berry fruit laced with balsamic notes and animal tang with a fair amount of alcohol as well; there's a dusky brooding quality to it that is in part youth. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by moderately intense spicy berry fruit acidity that has some sweetness to it, and by tannins that are smooth, though they do have slight youthful peppery accents, and it flows into a fairly balsamic finish that's quite long. Traditional, and rather graceful in this key; if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. I would give it a year to come together, and expect it to age well for at least a decade, perhaps longer.

2 stars

IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.

ONE STARgoes to wines that are good.

TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.

THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.

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Grimaldi Giacomo Sotto Castello di Novello Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense, with ripe berry fruit laced with rosa canina and some leaf tobacco, and sweetish balsamic accents too that provide depth. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with slightly jammy berry fruit supported by deft balsam-laced berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a certain warmth to them and flow into a fairly long clean balsam-laced plum cherry finish. It's quite young, and quite approachable, and will drink now with stews or roasts, though it also has the legs with which to age nicely for a decade or more, at least.

2 stars

Elvio Cogno Ravera Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic notes and spice supported by leaf tobacco and some berry fruit; it's very young, but displays pleasing complexity. On the palate it's full, with bright rich cherry fruit supported by deft slightly savory berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and savory, with slight bitter graphite accents, and flow into a clean fresh tannic finish. Graceful, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast, it will reward those who have the patience to give it 3-5 years, and are well for a decade more, at least.

2 stars

Barolo made from Grapes from Various Comuni Terre da Vino Paesi Tuoi Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina and some leather supported by leaf tobacco and spice, and delicate underlying berry fruit, with mentholated spice as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some underbrush, and by tannins that are warm and already fairly smooth, with a dusky burr, and flow into lasting warmth. Pleasant in a fairly direct key and quite approachable despite its youth, and will also age nicely. 2 stars

Azienda Agricola Le Strette Le Strette Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep ruby with black reflections and slight orange in the rim. The bouquet is metallic, with dusky bitter notes and some spice, and also some underlying berry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's straight forward, with ripe rich cherry fruit supported by brisk cherry and forest berry fruit acidity, and by muscular tannins that have a youthful burr, and flow into a fairly bright sour cherry finish. It's like a well-muscled teen athlete, up front and vigorous, and is pleasing in its directness. One doesn't usually say a Barolo is a wine to set out and drink, but that's what will happen if you set this out with a well-marbled porterhouse cut.

2 stars

Azienda Agricola Montaribaldi Borzoni Barolo DOCG 2007

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Almandine with brownish black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with fairly rich berry fruit

supported by mentholated accents and spice, and some berry fruit jam as well, and underlying cedar and leaf tobacco. Vigorous. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit

supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and have slight savory notes to them; they're not velvety yet but could go that route. It's not tremendously complex, but is pleasant in a rather muscular key, and will age nicely for many years.

2 stars

Terre da Vino Essenze Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and spicy, with savory berry fruit and some cedar mingled with Moroccan leather and some mentholated accents. On the palate it's fairly direct and quite smooth, with moderately intense rather bitter berry fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by ample very smooth tannins that flow into a fairly quick savory finish. It lacks oomph and complexity, and to be honest I would expect more from a Barolo.

1 star

Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather chemical at the outset, though this blows off to reveal spicy notes and green leather with some savory accents and underlying leaf tobacco. Not much fruit, but that's not uncommon in Nebbiolo. On the palate it's full, with leafy minerality supported by pleasant sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a fairly long mineral finish with underlying sour berry fruit acidity. Fairly direct, but will drink quite well with succulent red meats. I'd have liked a little more fruit to complement the minerality.

1 star

Famiglia Anselma Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with mentholated jammy berry fruit with some fresh cut ripe yellow peach accents supported by pleasant spice; it's very young, and has a pleasant cheekiness to it, and as it opens the menthol increases and some leaf tobacco also emerges. On the palate it's rich, with bright berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and graphite bitterness, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and ample, though they do have bitter accents as well. It's fairly

straightforward but has nice fruit and power, and will drink quite well with foods, and also age well for many years.

2 stars

Prunotto Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is smoky and penetrating, with hardwood ash supporting minerality and slight berry fruit, though what really comes though now

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is the penetrating smoke. On the palate it's ample, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm splintery burr, and flow into a rather splintery tannic finish. It's young, and needs a year to come together; this said it's fairly direct and I might have liked a little more complexity. 1 star

Gianni Gagliardo Serre Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine paling to orange in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with slightly jammy berry fruit supported by slight brambly spice, some white pepper, and as it opens chalk and cedar. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense rather liquid jammy plum cherry fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a palate-drying tannic finish with some plum accents. The tannins may smooth in with time, but at present they are simply too dry for me. 1 star

Barolo from Roddi d'Alba

Bruna Grimaldi Bricco Ambrogio Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and orange rim; it looks a little older than it is. The bouquet is fairly intense with greenish vegetal accents and quite a bit of alcohol supported by nose tingling spice and green leather, and -- gradually and grudgingly -- some berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit that has a degree of sweetness to it that's also due to alcohol, and is supported by some plum acidity and fairly smooth ample tannins. The palate is more ahead of the nose in a quite ripe key, and I would give it a couple of years at least a year. If you like ripe but not soft wines you'll enjoy it; if you prefer wines that are more towards cherry and berry fruit you'll like it less. But it does have a cheeky appeal. 2 stars

Eredi Lodali Lorena Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit and slight mentholated spice supported by slight acidity; it's still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have hints of Moroccan leather and leaf tobacco to them, and flow into a dry tannic finish with quite a bit of alcohol to tingle the tongue. It needs another year to come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly direct, up front key.

1 star

Wines From Verduno Belcolle Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by spice and slight cedar mingled with greenish vegetal notes and some leaf tobacco, and also a fair amount of alcohol. Very young and still going in several

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directions at once, but promising. On the palate it's full and smooth, with fairly powerful ripe cherry plum fruit supported by some jammy berry fruit accents and moderate mineral acidity that has a greenish cast, and tannins that are ample and have a certain dusky bitterness to them. Pleasant in a slightly voluptuous rather ripe key, and will drink well with succulent meats, including drier meats such as pot roasts, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.

2 stars

Bosco Agostino Neirane Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling overtones orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate rosa canina and leaf tobacco supported by some minerality and underlying berry fruit. Pleasing elegance in a fairly traditional key, and though it is quite young it has a lot to say. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a smooth sweet burr, and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's quite young, but graceful, and will work very well with foods now, and also age well for a decade at least.

2 stars

Alessandria Fratelli Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with brownish black reflections and leathery orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leather and leaf tobacco more than fruit, smoky bitterness, and as it opens greenish vegetal accents too. On the palate it's ample with moderate rather soft fruit -- mostly plum though it's fairly generic -- supported by minerality and tannins that while languid and broad also have a splintery burr, and flow into a fairly sweet cherry plum finish. It's a bit lax, with the tannins that are dry, and I'd have liked more acidity and better tannic definition.

1 star

Burlotto Comm. G. B. Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a sweetish cast, with menthol and rosa canina mingled with fairly bright mineral acidity, leaf tobacco, and spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with ripe slightly sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and menthol-laced tannins that flow into a long warm finish with spicy mentholated notes. It's rather languid and quite approachable, not to say surprisingly mature for a young Barolo. If you prefer tighter more acidic wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like ample riper wines you will enjoy it. Very much a child of the vintage.

2 stars

Castello di Verduno Massara Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with ripe berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some greenish yellow peaches with slight leaf tobacco as well. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and tannins that have a youthful splintery burr, and flow into a fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quick to write but

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harmonious in a fairly direct cheeky key that brings a smiling tomboy to mind, and will drink well with foods, red meats in particular, and also age nicely for a number of years.

2 stars

Wines from Barolo

Donna Bianca Barolo DOCG 2007 Azienda Agricola La Querciola

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is is fairly intense, with smoky peppery accents mingled with a fair amount of menthol and some alcohol, supported by rosa canina and leaf tobacco, and slight sweetness. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a splintery burr; it's not as full as I might have liked, and as the fruit fades the tannins stand around wondering what to do.

1 star

Bric Cenciurio Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and brownish orange rim. The bouquet is mature, with balsamic accents mingled with some warmth and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich slightly sweet sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a greenish splintery burr, and flow into a rather dry tannic finish. It needs a year for the nose to develop, and perhaps two for the tannins to smooth, at which point it will be middle of the road in key. I found myself wishing for a little more richness to the fruit.

1 star

Poderi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and leaf tobacco; the combination is quick to write but harmonious. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit that has some ripe berry fruit accents, supported by berry fruit acidity and by fairly rich tannins that have a mentholated burr and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. Pleasant, with verve and vigor, and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts now, while it also has the capacity to age well for a number of years, becoming lacy with time.

2 stars

G. D. Vajra Alba Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and pale pinkish-orange rim. It's a bit redder than some. The bouquet is fresh, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by some mentholated notes and some leaf tobacco. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by fairly savory minerality and bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a youthful peppery burr and flow into a bright peppery sour berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. It's quite lively, and very approachable; one could drink it with a steak already, though it will reward those with the patience to give it a couple of years to develop. Big, fresh, and forward.

2 stars

Azienda Agricola Nada Giuseppe Barolo DOCG 2007

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Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and mineral with some smoke, but not much fruit; there are hints of cocoa and cold coffee however. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, though rather languid, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour cherry raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and rather dry, flowing into a clean dry tannic finish. There's a sinuosity to it -- soft richness of fruit and tannin -- which isn't standard for Barolo but is fairly typical of this vintage, and makes it quite approachable even in youth. It will drink well with grilled meats or roasts now, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.

2 stars

A wine from Barolo & La Morra

Cantina Bartolo Mascarello Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with acidity and minerality laced with leaf tobacco and some cedar, and a fair amount of spice, with some hints of sweetness too. Rich, and fairly mature. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense acidity and by tannins that are quite blocky and lay a splintery burr over the tongue and flow into a fairly long warm peppery finish. It's fairly ripe, and despite the languidity of the fruit quite young from a tannic standpoint, needing at least a couple of years for them to fold in. An interesting combination of ripeness and tannic brashness; it's particular and if you like the style you will enjoy it -- in a few years -- but you have to like the style.

2 stars

Back to Barolo

Germano Angelo Vigna Rué Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is full, rich, and slightly overripe with cherry plum fruit supported by leaf tobacco and some peppery spice, also slight cedar. Very young but nice depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by slight balsamic bitter acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and rather mineral, and flow into a fairly long warm finish. Quite young, but shows promise in a fairly

traditional key, and though one could drink it now -- it does have a slightly more mature than usual feel to it -- it will reward those who have some patience;

2 stars

Cascina Adelaide Preda Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with shellac and cedar mingled with petroleum at first swish, and more of the same with the second. Lots of oak. On the palate it's ripe, and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft slightly dusky berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet savory tannins that have a clean cedar overlay and flow into a long warm cherry plum fruit finish with savory tannic underpinning. Quite graceful, in a rich international key, and though the fruit is ripe

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it's not overripe and has acidity for direction; if you like the international style you will enjoy it very much, and even crusty traditionalists will find things to think about.

2 stars

Famiglia Anselma Del Comune di Barolo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling overtones orange. The bouquet is intense and fresh, with violets and peppery spice supported by some balsamic notes and a fair amount of alcohol; it's going in several directions at once and with the second sniff seems somewhat disjointed. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright berry fruit that is however quite short, giving way to dry tannins that sit there by themselves, wondering what to do next. It may come together in a couple of years, but I'd have liked more harmony today -- there isn't much.

1 star

Bric Cenciurio Coste di Rosa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with alcohol and cedar and some menthol, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample with fairly ripe berry fruit supported by sweetish plum accents and tannins that are very dry and splintery, and flow into a dry splintery finish. It's like someone wandering around in boxer shorts --not ready for polite society, and won't be for at least a couple of years; the tannins are very aggressive now and shut out the fruit. 1 star

Barale Fratelli Castellero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and greenish, with spicy savory notes and wood smoke, but not much fruit. Pungency, and greenishness, but not fruit. On the palate it's splintery, with sour berry fruit that is overwhelmed by tannins before it has time to do much more than raise a hand, and the finish continues at length. In college we talked about angry young men, and this is an angry young wine.

Grimaldi Giacomo Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a funky key, with balsamic accents and some sea salt mingled with wet stable straw and some plum cherry fruit. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I expected, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by slight balsam-laced acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a rather soft balsamic finish. It feels as if the ripening got away from them, and though the tannins are sweet and ripe the fruit is overripe and acidity has fallen off.

1 star

Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's one of the darkest wines poured so far. The bouquet is dusky, with savory notes and

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(10)

spice supporting some berry fruit; there's also some rosa canina, and a certain sweetness to it. On the palate it's bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a youthful splinteriness to them, and flow into a fairly bright sour berry fruit finish. It's quite young in a rather muscular key, but approachable, and will drink well with red meats in the short term, while aging nicely over longer periods. If you like the style, which revolves more around power than finesse -- it's more a wine for red meats than meditation -- you will enjoy it, and it will age nicely for at least a decade.

2 stars

Michele Chiarlo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and savory accents mingled with leaf tobacco and warmth but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth with cherry plum fruit supported more by dusky bitterness than acidity, and by tannins that are ample, soft and smooth, and flow into a fairly long plum finish with peppery accents. Pleasant if you like the style, but you have to like bigger softer very ripe wines. If you prefer tighter wines with more acidity and verve it won't work as well for you.

2 stars

Brezza Giacomo e Figli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and some greenish accents shot through with warmth and some greenish vegetal accents that emerge with swishing. On the palate it's brighter than I expected from the nose, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and dusky leaf tobacco bitterness, while the tannins are ample and rather blocky, but display some hints of velvet. It's very young, with the palate a little further along than the nose but neither really presentable. I would give it a couple of years to come together, and expect it to age nicely in a traditional key.

2 stars

Rinaldi Francesco e Figli Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is oddly metallic, with some sweetness and plum cherry fruit, but what really comes through it peppery hot iron. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory warmth and tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, though they do have some splinters to them. I'd have liked more brightness and richness to the fruit, which is a little too ripe and doesn't really stand up to the tannins. 1 star

Damilano Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly balsamic, with warmth and some alcohol, and some spice, with slight greenish vegetal accents that add depth, and some underlying cedar. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that

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have a cedary burr and flow into a peppery tannic finish with warm sour berry fruit underpinning. It needs another year for the tannins to fold in, and is fairly direct; I'd have liked more richness to the fruit and less cedar in the tannins, which are angrier than the fruit warrants.

1 star

Gianni Gagliardo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and spice with some underlying leaf tobacco as well. Nice balance in a fairly forward key. On the palate it's quite ripe and rather soft, with smooth sweetish cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense mineral berry fruit acidity, and by ample sweet smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish with some savory accents, and deft underlying tannins that have some balsamic accents. It's soft, but not overripe, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though it is soft for a Barolo. It may do interesting things over the next 5-8 years, though I doubt it will be really long lived. 2 stars

Burlotto Comm. G. B. Vigneto Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic plum fruit supported by slight stable straw and summer sun low in the sky -- that's what the aroma brings to mind -- with greenish peppery accents as well and some nose tingling acidity that verges on the pungent. On the palate it's ample and ripe, with rich soft plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight glancing youthful quality to them, and by moderate berry fruit acidity that flows into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish with underlying sour berry fruit acidity. It's ripe and fairly soft, but not overripe, and comes across as being from a hot vintage though the acidity is maintained; if you like the style --a big soft not too ripe wine -- you will enjoy it bec--ause it does displ--ay a certain grace, but you have to like the style. If you prefer wines that are tighter and more vigorous, it won't work as well for you.

2 stars

Borgogno F.lli Serio & Battista Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with ripe berry fruit supported by spice and greenish accents, and by some leaf tobacco and slight balsamic notes, with alcohol providing support from underneath. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by warm savory minerality and tannins that have a spicy burr and flow into a long warm tannic finish. It's pleasant, and fairly zesty in a big ripe but not overripe key, and if you like the style will drink nicely in the short term with drier meats, though I wouldn't age it for too long.

2 stars

Pira di Chiara Boschis Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and ruby in the rim; it's one of the darker wines poured today. On the palate it's fairly intense,

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(12)

with some berry fruit supported by cedar and leaf tobacco and some mentholated spice; nice depth in a fairly international key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with slight cedary accents. It's up front and direct in a fairly muscular key, and will drink quite well with succulent roasts or stews. If you're looking for more complexity I'm not sure you'll find it here, but it will work very well with foods, and that's important in a wine too.

2 stars

Poderi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gum Arabic and spice supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some leaf tobacco; there are also slight vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by ample soft tannins that have a slight dusky burr and flow into a fairly long slightly sour finish with berry fruit and balsamic accents and a very dry tannic

underpinning. It's ample and on the softer side of the spectrum; I'd have liked a little more brightness to the fruit, which the tannins eclipsed on the second sip. This will likely improve with time, but I must score what I taste.

1 star

Virna Borgogno Cannubis Boschis Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with petroleum and greenish accents mingled with quite a bit of sea salt and some barnyard tang; it comes across as aggressive. On the palate it's surprisingly languid, with leathery berry fruit supported by warm balsam-laced tannins and slight balsamic acidity that flow into a fairly long finish with berry fruit and leaf tobacco. Much older in style on the palate than the nose in its present stage would suggest, and I would give the wine a couple of years to get its bearings, because it may do interesting things in a ripe traditional key. If you prefer brighter more fruit forward wines it won't work as well for you.

2 stars

Boroli Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2007 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mineral laced berry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and pleasant spice, with some sour berry fruit acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and full, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and full, and fairly smooth, and flow into a clean savory finish with bright berry fruit and tannins that are rather blocky. It's still very young, but approachable, and if you like the style, which is more towards berry fruit (as opposed to plum) but not really tight, you will enjoy it; it will work well with stews or roasts.

2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giuseppe Rinaldi Cannubi-San Lorenzo Ravera Barolo DOCG 2007

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(13)

Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rosa canina and leaf tobacco supporting some red berry fruit and slight smoky spice. Nice depth and harmony, though still quite young. On the palate it's full, with elegant cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, with slight leaf tobacco accents, and flow into a long warm fairly bright cherry finish. Graceful, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast, it will also age quite nicely for many years. If you are more traditionally minded you will enjoy it considerably, and modernists will find things to think about too. 2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by peppery spice and some balsamic accents, with some leaf tobacco and sea salt as well, and slight hints of rosa canina. Coming together, but nice depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich leathery sour berry fruit supported by moderately intense prune and mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and ample; it's fairly graceful, though a little more delicate than I might have expected -- a touch more verve would have been nice. The finish is savory and fairly long. 2 stars

Virna Borgogno Prada Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with oak and leaf tobacco and some spice supported by peppery accents and alcohol with underlying rosa canina. On the palate it's bright, and richer than I expected, with lively slightly greenish sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some cedary overtones and fairly bright berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It surprised me; from the nose I expected oak to be more apparent on the palate, and though it is present in the tannins it does as it should and steps back to let the fruit carry the show, which it does, nicely. I would give the wine another year for the nose to develop, and expect it to age well for a decade at least. It grew upon me

2 stars

Brezza Giacomo & Figli Bricco Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes and some greenish yellow peach with underlying shellac, and slight berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense rather generic fruit

supported by minerality more than acidity, and tannins that are smooth and rather glancing. I'd have liked more richness and

brightness to the fruit, which gives way to the tannins, which don't do the same job when it comes to leading a wine.

1 star

Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate - La Costa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leaf tobacco and spice mingled with

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(14)

rosa canina and slight sweetness; it's quite young but displays nice depth. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity and by ample smooth tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. The tannins are bit lax and it's not really tight, and this is an effect of the vintage; if you like ample soft not overripe wines you will like it, and even if you prefer more verve you will find things to ponder, especially in the nose. A delicate expression of the vintage in a soft but fairly traditional key, and it could become quite interesting with time.

2 stars

Marcarini Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit laced with floral accents and greenish vegetal spice, and also some leaf tobacco and slight green leather. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a fairly bright burr, and flow into a long warm tannic finish with sour berry fruit underpinning. Pleasant in a rather bracing key, and needs a year at least to come together; the tannins are fairly aggressive and will likely remain so, but it will work very well with foods when it has its bearings.

2 stars

Wines from Castiglione FallettoFontana Livia Barolo DOCG 2007

Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with some petroleum and spice mingled with greenish vegetal accents that bring to mind unripe yellow peach, and a fair amount of spice; there's also some cedar. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are peppery and flow into a warm peppery tannic finish with some alcohol and sour berry fruit with some of the same peaches present in the nose, that settles into tannic dryness. It needs a year for the tannins to fold in, at which point it will be middle of the road in key. 2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cavalier Bartolomeo Solanotto Altenasso Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a fair amount of cedar and some greenish brambly notes supported by alcohol; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by tannins that are rather peppery and flow into a warm rather bitter finish with considerable dry tannic overlay. It needs at least a year for the tannins to fold in, and two will likely be better; at present it's really not ready for polite society.

Azienda Vitivinicola Filippo Domenico di Elio Filippino Castiglione falletto Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of cedar and some cold coffee, with greenish accents and spice as well. On the palate it's fairly rich,

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(15)

with moderate berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and some mineral acidity that flow into a fairly long cedary finish. A great deal of oak, too much for me.

1 star

Fratelli Giacosa Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and peppery spice, and also by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have some graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a clean peppery tannic finish. The fruit of the palate is further along than the nose, which is in mid stride, though the tannins need a year at least to smooth over, and it would benefit from at least a couple of years. It will age well for many years thereafter. 2 stars

Sobrero Francesco Ciabot Tanasio Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with balsamic accents and wet stable straw mingled with some greenish notes. On the palate it's bright, however, with lively sour cherry fruit whose acidity gives it a sunny cast supported by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with balsamic overtones and hints of barnyard tang with underlying mentholated spice. If you like the style you will enjoy it, because it has a fresh and invigorating brightness, and also

considerable aging capacity, and will become gracefully lacy with time.

2 stars

A wine from Castiglione Falletto And La Morra Oddero Poderi e Cantine Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by greenish accents and leathery spice, and by a fair amount of alcohol. Quite young and still coming together. On the palate it's fairly rich, and rather languid, with ample soft berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are very dry and cast a veneer over the tongue; they're quite aggressive and overshadow the fruit completely. Too aggressive for me, and while it's true that they will fold in with time they'd have to fold in quite a bit.

1 star

Cascina Adelaide Pernanno Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is spicy, with quite a bit of cedar and some greenish spice, and some leaf tobacco, though what really comes out now is the cedar. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by brown sugar sweetness and slight acidity, and by tannins that are ample and quite smooth, and flow into a fairly long finish that has some sour berry fruit acidity for direction and lasting warmth. It's quite ripe, in a rather languid key, but not really soft

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(16)

the fruit has prunes, but the acidity and tannins are there to keep it from settling, and the finish is bright. It's not what I really think of in terms of a Barolo the fruit is quite ripe and I prefer tighter tannins -- but it works well, and will drink nicely with drier meats and also with meat dishes that have some sweetness to them, say roast rabbit with prunes.

2 stars

Franco Conterno Azienda Agricola Cascina Sciulun1 Vigna Pugnane Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with greenish plum fruit accents and some spice supported by spice and some dusky cedar. Quite ripe, and bright in this context. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by fairly sweet berry fruit acidity and by ample tannins that have a slight splintery burr and flow into a clean dusky finish with some leaf tobacco accents mingled into mineral acidity and slight tannic notes that emerge as the fruit fades. It's ample and ripe, but not overripe, and if you like bigger softer wines you will enjoy it. If you instead prefer tighter wines that are better defined it will work less well for you.

2 stars

Tenuta Montanello Montanello Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim with some orange. Darker than most of the wines poured today. The bouquet is intense with penetrating, quite nose-tingling cedar-laced acidity and greenish spice; the combination is powerful and covers whatever other nuances there may be. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and some bitterness, and by tannins that are ample and fairly dry, and flow into a peppery finish with leaf tobacco-laced berry fruit. It's very young, and the nose gives an impression of being in a funk at the moment; I have a feeling that it will gain in complexity over the next couple of years, and the wine will be worth waiting for. This said, stylistically it is ample and soft, and will only really work for you if you like this kind of wine. If you prefer tighter more closely bound Barolo, it will work less well for you.

1 star

Azienda Agricola Roccheviberti Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leaf tobacco and sweetish spice mingled with rosa canina and some berry fruit, and underlying cedar with hints of hardwood ash; it's quite fresh and quite young, and though clearly in mid stride inviting. On the palate it's full and bright, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by dusky bitter graphite shaving laced acidity and tannins that have a savory peppery burr and flow into a fairly long savory tannic finish. Pleasant in youth, and though the acidity isn't really bright it does have a certain peppery verve to it. 2 stars

Massolino Panussi Barolo DOCG 2007

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Dusky almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with strong vegetal notes supported by some cedary notes and quite a bit of alcohol; there's also some leaf tobacco and green spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are ample and soft, and flow into a rather peppery finish. It's quite well along, and very approachable in a fairly large soft but not overripe key.

1 star

Boroli Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to Moroccan leather orange. The bouquet is powerful, with berry fruit mingled with scalded milk and hints of almond milk, which is a wood-fruit interaction, and quite a bit of milky cedar. Lots of oak. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich plum prune fruit that surrenders to a wave of peppery cedar laced spice that continues into a long cedar laced finish. Hugely oaky, and the oak overshadows the fruit completely; while oak does fold in with time I doubt it will successfully here.

1 star

Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a greenish vegetal key with spice and some peppery accents, with quite a bit of cedar too. On the palate it's rather languid, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit supported by slight minerality and to a greater degree by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's in flux, with the components going in several directions, and needs a year or perhaps two to come together and get its bearings.

Fontana Livia Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather rustic, with greenish balsamic accents and supported by considerable sea salt and some greenish peach fruit, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a peppery berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's ample and soft, and lacking in brightness; there's more minerality than acidity, and this makes it seem settled, and while the peppery burr does provide life it really cannot substitute for acidity.

1 star

Cordero di Montezemolo - Monfalletto Enrico VI Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with mineral bitterness and a fair amount of cedar supported by hardwood ash and nose tingling acidity; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a smoky cedar overlay and flow into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish with cedary

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underpinning. The nose is still unsettled, and though the palate is further along it too still has a ways to go; I would give it a year, and expect it to clean up nicely in an approachable international key. If you are more traditionally minded it won't work as well for you. 2 stars

Oddero Poderi e Cantine Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with cedar and some spice mingled with peppery accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and more mineral than fruit driven, with leaf tobacco and some rosa canina supported by dusky bitterness and tannins that have a powerful tongue curling splintery burr and flow into a long tannic finish. It's woefully young in an ample fairly international key, and needs at least a year to get its bearings and come together. It's a wine you should only consider if you like the style; if you prefer brighter fruit and acidity it won't work for you.

1 star

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight spice. Not quite nobody home, but in that direction. On the palate it's full, with bright peppery fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by peppery tannins that flow into a fairly long peppery finish. I'd have liked more brightness from the fruit and less

aggressiveness from the tannins, though in their defense one can say that they're woefully young and unhappy. A score now will likely penalize the wine.

Azienda Agricola Brovia Rocche Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is is fresh, with bright floral accents and deft berry fruit laced with hints of strawberries, and as it opens some greenish accents and hints of leaf tobacco, with some cedar and alcohol as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry strawberry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean rather peppery berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a ripe but not overripe key, and though it will benefit from another year's bottle aging it is already approachable now, and will work well with drier meats, or sweeter meat dishes along the lines of roast rabbit with prunes.

2 stars

Posted by Kyle Phillips at 6:05 PM

Labels: 2007 Barolo, 2007 vintage, Langhe Nebbiolo, Piemontese red wines, Vintage Considerations

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