Also this Issue...
Painting Timecast Buildings
WH40KTournament Forces
Cowboys
Redcoat Officer
More SS Camouflage
The miniatures on this page were
painted by Chris “bugsda” Geale.
Chris can often be found
selling
miniatures on eBay...
Chris almost exclusively uses
Plaka paints and mixes many of his
colours.
The miniatures on this page are
from Artizan Designs. The Mad
Jock and Army Veteran are from
Crusader Miniatures.
Editorial
Hello and welcome to issue 2 of WP&M. Although this issue has arrived later than intended (thanks to the perils of real life) I am still very happy with how it has turned out.
The star attraction this issue is Brent “Da Great Queeg” Watterson’s article on painting winter camouflaged vehicles. I have admired Brents work for as long as he has been posting pictures online (in fact I have a refernce folder on my PC containing every single picture he has posted…) and he was only to happy to explain his techniques and take plenty of step by step pictures for us all.
It often amazes me how open and willing the industries top painters and modellers are in giving up their time to explain their work and help others aspiring to paint better and learn.
This got me thinking about the people that have had the most influence on my painting over the years. For me there is one man that is responsible for my journey into the realms of miniature painting.
His name is Matt Gardner and he was the manager of my local Games Workshop back in the mid 90’s. It was his love for painting, enthusiasm and talent that really kick-started my own passion for the hobby and for that I cannot thank him enough.
Dave
Contents
WINTER WAR - Page 7
Sisters of the Damned - Page 20
Paint Recognition Guide - Page 4
Redcoat Officer - Page 18
Painting Timecast Buildings - Page 26
SS Camouflage - Page 31
Cowboys - Page 2, Page 6,
Page 25, Page 30 & Page 36
All content is © Wargames Painting and Modelling and its contributors. Strictly no reproduction without prior written consent. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed in articles are those of the individual authors concerned.
Contact
If you have any comments or feedback, or you would like to contribute an article or two to the magazine then send an email to:
[email protected]
The Paint Recognition Guide will be used to introduce people to new paints as well as letting painters have their say about different ranges of paints. Hopefully their opinions and reviews will prove useful to some of you. If you have any feedback about how useful these pages are, please get in touch…
I purchased the entire range of Rackham paints on eBay. I was interested to find out how these paints performed against the other brands I use (Vallejo, Foundry, Plaka and GW).
There are 50 colours in the range, each supplied in a 20ml square pot. The pots have a flip top lid which can be unscrewed. Once ‘flipped’ the lids reveal a Vallejo-like eye dropper nozzle. In my opinion I think this is a touch too large, when the bottle is squeezed to release the paint, even with a controlled hand, a large amount of paint comes out. I tend to unscrew the top and get the paint out by using a cocktail stick.
Over half of the range of paints consists of light, pastel colours. Although the paint is thick and
appears to be heavy with pigment, you will need at least a couple of coats over a black undercoat to get a good coverage with most of the colours in the range.
The paints are water-based and mix with water as well as other acrylic thinners. However, if painting over a dark undercoat beware, as thinning these paints too much will make getting a good coverage very hard.
When comparing the Rackham paint range to the cookie-cutter paint ranges like Foundry and Reaper it becomes very clear that the Rackham paints have definitely been deigned for painters confident with colour theory and mixing and matching their colours. The paints dry with a mat finish and to get a good rich colour, building up layers of thinned paint over a white undercoat is essential. This is a range designed squarely for the Rackham studio painting style so bear that in mind if you are looking to pick up some of the colours.
The miniatures on this page are from Copplestone Castings ‘Gangster’ range and were painted by Kevin Dallimore.
Although not strictly ‘cowboys’ these miniatures are a wonderful example of what can be done for a more contemporary feel in your gaming. The July issue of Wargames Illustrated features more pictures of Kevin’s set up with loads more miniatures to look at.
I’m a gamer, collector as well as a full time modeller and painter. I’ve been given the opportunity by Dave to put together an article showing some of the methods and techniques I use to paint my Wargaming armour. So first up I’ve been working on a series of winter vehicles for a typical mid war (’43-’44) German Battlegroup.
When I was first approached I knew it was going to be a challenge as I hadn’t attempted a serious winter finish before. However my fears were misplaced as after giving it a go, I found out just how easy it is to get a fairly pleasing winter white-washed finish.
The Kits
Chosen for this article are two 1:72nd Panthers, the Panther A/D from Revell and the Panther G from Dragon. It was the first time I’d assembled any of the more recent Panther kits, being brought up on a diet of Matchbox, Esci and Hasegawa kits while growing up. Both kits have some good points and bad points and while this isn’t a build review its worth mentioning a few of the ups and downs.
Dragon: This version has a diecast hull
which has large pre-drilled mounting holes for the tools and hull accessories. You’ve either got to fill them up or fit all the tools as supplied. The band tracks are well detailed but short and very tight. As I wanted a little bit of “track sag” I ended with an unsightly join, mostly hidden under the roadwheels. In details and finish I would rate this as slightly superior to the Revell kit, build-wise.
Revell: This kit allows for two versions
of the early Panther and is generally easy to put together with okay detail. Link and length tracks are my preference and I was able to get a nice sag on them. However I do understand how difficult they can be for some to assemble. I found some of the detail a bit soft, and the front interlocking armour plate joint is huge and ideally should have been filled and re-scribed.
The Steps
Preparation
Stage 1 Undercoat Stage 2 Basecoat Stage 3 Whitewash Stage 4 Pin Wash Stage 5 Detail Stage 6 Post Shade Stage 7 Chipping Stage 8 Markings
Stage 9 Final Weathering Stage 10 Picture Time!
Preparation - References
I spend some time before a project looking through my references (both on-line and books from my own collection). It helps to get a picture in my mind of the look I’m aiming for with the finished vehicle. Attached is a selection of useful references not only for the Panther but German Armour in general.
Panther & Variants - Walter J Spielberger The Eastern Front - Steven Zaloga
Panzer Colours 1, 2, 3 - Bruce Culver D-Day to Berlin - Terence Wise Panzer Modelling - Tony Greenland
Preparation - Paints
I use Enamels, usually Humbrol, for the basecoat / undercoat. This gives a hardwearing surface for the weathering to follow. The top coat and weathering is then done with GW Acrylics. I make up batches of custom colours and I use these for the details and some of the weathering. For the washes and filters I have two very thin mixes, “Cal’s Secret Sauce” as my brother calls them. One is a mix of Water, GW Black and Tamiya X20A Thinners. The second is a mix of Water, GW Black, GW Chestnut Ink and Tamiya Thinners. Finally, I can’t afford swish MIG pigments yet so recycle by crushing up partially dried Humbrol. These are my cheapo versions of weathering powders.
Humbrol 83 - My preferred match for
German Dunkelgelb (Dark Yellow)
GW White - Whitewash finish
GW Black - General bits ‘n’ pieces, rarely
used neat though.
GW Chestnut Ink - Rust and shading,
invariably used thinned down
Mix “T” - My track colour, a mix of GW
Dark Flesh, Codex Grey, Black
Mix “R” - My rust mix of GW Dark Flesh,
Black, White
Mix “ST” - My steel/Gunmetal mix of GW
Mithral Silver and Black
Mix “W” - Used for woodwork, a mix of GW
Tanned Flesh and Bleached Bone
Cal’s Secret Sauce1 - A mix of water, GW
Black and Tamiya X20A Thinners
Cal’s Secret Sauce2 - A mix of water, GW
Black, GW Chestnut Ink and Tamiya X20A Thinners
Stage 1 & 2: Undercoat & Basecoat
On some kits, depending on the colour and material (i.e. resin), I use a flat white spray for an undercoat. For these kits, however, I combined the undercoat and basecoat stages, using my favorite match for German Dunklegelb, Humbrol Enamel No 83.
Dark Yellow (Dunkelgelb RAL 7028), was the basecoat for German armour from 1943 lasting pretty much until the end of the war.
From the end of 1944 through to the war’s end in 1945, some vehicles did leave the factory in Red-Oxide primer (Rot RAL 8012) and Dark Green (Olivegrun RAL 6003). However Dunkelgelb would still be a good base finish for a gaming model.
As our Panthers are meant to represent vehicles from the late 1943 period they’ve been given the common base colour of Dark Yellow
Stage 3: Whitewash
Whitewash applied using GW Skull White. I apply the white pretty roughly, probably not far off how it was really done. I aim for a thin wash, using plenty of water and flood the thinned paint on. If it pools move it around with the brush, however, as you can see from the pictures it’s pretty rough. A bit like finger-painting really, get stuck in and have some fun.
Stage 4: Pinwash
Now the finishing starts, using Cal’s Secret Sauces 1 & 2 (thinned black and thinned black/brown) I outlined the hatches, tool, fixture and fittings. Take a bit of care here but if you make a mistake just you can get clean water or thinners on it and wash it off. I tend to go darker on any sunken panel lines and a bit thinner around the tools.
the engine deck is even thinner than the rest on the tank. It simulates the quicker job done on top of the tank by the crew and it’s also a high use / wear area.
Finally wash the wheels using a mix of the two wash colours. I dip my brush into the thinned black, then the black-brown mix. Drop the mixture neat around the bolts on the wheels, thin it for the dished sections.
Also don’t forget to wash the underneath and inside of the roadwheels. I usually give this area two or more coats of the wash, slop it on a bit using both colours. While it’s not usually seen, these are gaming vehicles and you’ll be surprised how any un-painted areas always catch the eye.
Stage 5 : Detail
At this stage I block in the remaining details, tracks, tools etc. It’s surprising how much more like a vehicle it looks once the tracks (or wheels) are done.
Also you can finish the vehicle just at this stage and you’d have a pretty good looking wargaming vehicle.
Add markings and off to the gaming table it can go ……
Stage 6 : Post Shading
This is the fun stage for me. It’s probably the stage that I most get asked about and gives
the vehicles depth and character. All in all it’s pretty straightforward although I’ve had a bit of practice!
The thing here is also that there’s a bit of personal judgment (artistic judgment maybe?) in how much shading and what colours to use. It’s a bit of a preference thing, a bit like adding seasoning when you cook – it’s down to personal taste.
For the Panthers, I shade using my two thinned custom mixes, Cal’s Secret Sauces 1 & 2. If you’re getting a recurring theme here
it’s because I use that stuff on pretty much everything I do at some stage.
So to begin shading I generally use a fairly fine brush for most of the superstructure. I also prepare a container (an old & clean paint lid) with some clean water and thinners, about 50:50. This is used to wash out any streaks or pooling as the shading is applied. Sometimes I “wet” the surfaces by washing it with the clean water/thinners mix. This helps
prevent pooling and allows the shade mix to flow a little better. Don’t “wet” too much as then the shade will flow over everything and you’ll have to clean it off some areas before it pools and dries too streaky.
Work from the centre out and apply the shade mix sparingly. I usually drop some onto my pallet and thin it further with the clean water/ thinners mix.
In the two pictures on this page you can clearly see the immediate effect that the shading has in making the vehicle look more used and real..
For the Panther I used about 1/3 black shade mix to 2/3 black/chestnut shade mix.
The key here is to apply the wash in layers rather than trying to get too dark a result too quickly. You can always add a touch more but its dang hard to go back! However the good thing about the winter finish is that it’s made for the dirty/streaky appearance so you don’t have to be too tidy or worried about fully blending the shading.
Stage 7: Chipping
Stage 7 is an optional “extra”, the adding of chips, scratches and rust areas.
It’s an extra because it’s probably one area that really seems to polarize people, either
they love it or hate it, the haters usually quoting “paint wouldn’t wear like that”. I’m in the “love it” camp for a couple of reasons. I like my vehicles to look well used (rode hard and put away wet). It adds another layer of depth to the model, and it looks great! Using a very fine brush I use my Rust mix and run the side of the brush along sharp edges on the model. Look for obvious high use spots; think “how does the crew get on
board” for instance, also around frequently opened hatches and access panels. One key here is to keep it random, without being too random if that makes any sense.
Stage 8: Decals
the turret numbers. They’re a little tricky to apply but are of superb finish and quality. I use a strip of tape to hold each number in place. Position it, rub down using a sharp pencil then remove the tape with the backing paper attached.
Finally, weather the number. Use a little thinned white and Desert Yellow and over paint the decal blending it into the weathered vehicle.
Stage 9: Final Weathering
The final weathering can easily be seen around the track guards and various hatches a couple of last embellishments before
spraying with matt varnish and taking the piccies. I use thinned down Chestnut Ink to highlight rust and where rusty water has pooled and run off the vehicle.
The tracks and lower running gear areas are dusted with dry pigment. For this I use my own colours made from old Humbrol enamel paint which has dried up. I crush it up using a mortar and pestle (Safety tip – get your own, don’t use the wife’s cooking one!) and store
it in plastic pots. After applying it the tank can be varnished. I use a spray varnish so that the pigment doesn’t get washed off. ...And its finished
...No really it is ...all done!
P3 Khador Red
Highlight
Foundry
Scarlet 38A
Mixed 50/50 with P3
Khador Red Base
P3 Khador Red Base
Mixed 50/50 with P3
Khador Red Highlight
P3 Battlefield Brown
P3 Bootstrap Leather
P3 Rucksack Tan
Red Coat
Boots
Trousers, Jacket,
Lace and Hair
The White was painted by mixing black and white together to make a mid grey. More white was added for a highlight and then finally pure white was used for a final highlight.
This 28mm British Officer is from Redoubt Miniatures “French Indian War” range.
1. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1. 3. 2.
Foundry
Ochre 4A
Sash and
Piping
Foundry
Ochre 4B
Foundry
Ochre 4C
Foundry
Lemon 1C
For all the dark blue areas of the model I painted a single highlight of P3 Exile Blue over the black undercoat
Cuffs and
Tricorn
Plaka
Red/Brown
Khardic
P3
Flesh
Games
Workshop
Bronzed Flesh
Mixed 50/50
with White
White
1.
4. 3. 2.
A few weeks ago I attended a Warhammer 40,000 tournament, but not as a player. I was to judge the best painted army
competition. Our local tournament usually draws in over 50 players and this occasion was no different. Every year there is an amazing selection of armies vying for the top spot of Best Army.
Whilst assigning scores to the armies is simple enough (players score points against a check list of criteria) the best armies will often all finish with the same top scores. This year we ended up with 3 armies scoring maximum points and a dozen others coming only 1 point behind. This was where things became interesting as a clear winner had to be decided upon.
In the end the winning army was chosen for several reasons.
Firstly, it has impact. When walking
amongst the gaming tables the army made you stop and say…’wow’. The bright orange contrasts wonderfully with the dark blue and deep red creating a wonderful colour scheme for the army.
Secondly the army has a large number of converted figures. The idea of taking the Sisters of Battle and making them ‘evil’ might not seem at all that original but Paul managed to make it interesting with some well placed conversions and effective use of colour.
Finally the army is very well painted. A rather obvious point to make but one that deserves to be made. Paul has spent a while painting this army and the time he spent on it really does show.
The vehicles in Paul’s army were covered in detail, much of which had been sculpted and converted. As well as a Dreadnought being possessed by a Daemonette of Slaanesh it was the humble Rhino in Paul’s army that caught our eye. There is plenty of iconography on the top that was sculpted onto the surface as well as a scratch built interior containing a rather gruesome torture chamber.
Paul was kind enough to reveal his technique for achieving an incredibly vibrant and smooth orange…
“After a black undercoat I start with a basecoat of Games Workshop Blazing Orange. To achieve a smooth colour I apply the paint with an airbrush. Obviously GW’s paint is too thick to be used in an airbrush without being watered down. To thin the paint for use in my airbrush I add methylated spirits. I then leave this basecoat to dry for at least 24 hours.
I then highlight the armour using simple layering with very thinned paint. I use Games Workshop paints for all of the work on the armour. The important part is to keep your paint thin and to build up the layers of colour instead of trying to get a solid colour with one stroke of the brush. To thin my paints I use a mix of 5% Liquitex Slow-Dri Blending Medium, 15% Liquitex Flow Aid and 80% water. For protection I finish my miniatures with a satin varnish which also helps give the armour a slight shine, helping with that glowing effect.”
Power
Armour
Blazing Orange Mixed 50/50 with Fiery Orange Fiery Orange Mixed 50/50 with Golden Yellow Golden Yellow Mixed 50/50 with Bad Moon Yellow Bad Moon Yellow Mixed 50/50 with White 1. 7. 6.. 5. 4. 3. 2. 8.The miniatures on this page were painted by Nathen Bultman. All the miniatures on this page are from Foundry’s Old West range. Nathan is a long time painter and wargamer
whose website I suggest you visit for a good look around (I am quite fond of his
Samurai gallery). I am also informed that the
In the previous issue Rodger Williams explained how he constructed his fantastic shanty town scenery, and it was certainly inspirational stuff. However for this article I am going to show you how to get a great finish that is quick and easy when painting commercially available resin scenery. I have chosen some resin buildings from Timecast (whose tagline is “Historic
Buildings in Miniature”). Timecast make and sell what could very well be called the best small scale resin scenics in the industry. They have a large range of building covering many periods and scales. In fact a large part of their catalogue is available in all three sizes they cater too, so you can purchase the same building in 6mm, 10mm and 15mm.
I am focusing on a model that is part of Timecast’s “specials” range. It is a
10mm version of a French village house based on de Neuville’s painting “The Cemetery at St Privat”.
The wonderful thing about the Timecast miniatures (apart from the wealth of clean crisp detail) is that you don’t have to wash them with soapy water like you would have to with many other resin models. So after a few minutes spent cleaning away the small amounts of flash you are ready to undercoat your scenery.
Before I undercoated these miniatures I glued them to 3in x 6in MDF bases and based them with sand. When that had been allowed to dry for a long enough time I undercoated the entire model with Games Workshop Black spray.
I started by painting the entire roof of the house with Foundry Terracotta XXA. And then drybrushed it with Foundry Terracotta XXB and finally (yep, you guessed it) Foundry Terracotta XXC. The Walls were painted in a single coat of P3 Hammerfall Khaki
(it really does cover that well). The windows, doors and other fittings were left Black.
I then drybrushed up the base using Games Workshop colours starting with Bestial Brown then Snakebite Leather and finally Bubonic Brown. Now here comes the bit that ties the whole model together and really is quite simple… I drybrushed the base with Games Workshop Bleached
Bone and at the same time
drybrushed the entire building (roof, walls… the lot). The
picture at the top of this page shows the building at this stage an as you can see it is ready to be placed on a gaming table and fought over.
As you can see from the pictures of the other buildings the technique of using basic colours and then a drybrush of bleached bone works well for other buildings in the range. However the St Privat just demanded to have all its wonderfully detailed battle damage picked out.
You can see from the two images of the house (this page and the previous page) that it looks pretty much the same until you start to look at the little details.
All of the pock marks and shattered
masonry have been shaded
with P3 Battlefield Brown heavily watered down. This watered down mix has been painted into the recesses of the craters and other parts of the model like the roof overhang and along the base of the walls. Some areas needed three or four layers of the watered down paint to bring out the right shade.
All the wooden areas were painted with P3 Battlefield brown (not watered down as much this time) and then washed with black paint. The window frames were painted in with Hammerfall Khaki and neatened up with black for the windows.
On this page you can see some ‘extreme close ups’ of the building where you can see how I worked the watered down P3 Battlefield brown into the details. The mattress in the window was painted grey and then shaded with watered down black paint.
And for those of you wondering about the size of the model here you can see a 28mm GNW Russian Musketeer next to it…
All the miniatures
on this page were
painted by Rob
(sadly at time of
publication I was
did not have his
surname...) and
they are all from
the Foundry Old
West range.
By Carl Robson
Carl Robson is the very talented painter behind Raven Painting. I urge you to take a look at his website (click on the ban-ner).
Carl has painted some of the finest 15mm AB Napoleonics I think I have ever
seen...
In this issue Carl takes us through his quick technique for painting Oakleaf camouflage patterns.
It is important to remember when painting camouflage for wargames miniatures that you are not painting an exact reproduction of the real life pattern. Attempts to do so will often result in a murky and messy miniature that really doesn’t look very good.
The trick is to reach a compromise between a pattern that is recognisable and a pattern that doesn’t ruin the paint work and effort you have put into it.
All the photographs of SS camouflaged items in this article were supplied by Militaria.net and used with their permission.
1. The miniature is
undercoated Black.
2. All the areas to be
camouflaged are painted
Foundry Peaty brown 61A.
3. A highlight of Peaty Brown
61A mixed 50/50 with Games
Workshop’s Bleached Bone is
then painted over that.
1.
3.
2.
4. Games Workshop Scorched
brown patches and dots
painted over the surface.
5. Games Workshop Vomit
Brown is painted over the
Scorched Brown patches
leaving a little scorched
brown around edges.
Scorched Brown dots are then
painted over the Vomit Brown
patches.
6. Finally Vomit Brown dots
are painted over a few of the
previous Scorched Brown
dots.
4.
5.
This Space Marine force painted by Gary Batchelor was another one of the armies that was contending for the top spot at the same tournament as Paul Smith’s Chaotic Sisters of Battle.
The pictures on this page show off some of the great scenery being used. My thanks go out to Brian Phillips and Roman Gornostay for the pictures on thes pages.
The miniatures on this page belong to Stephen Robinson also known online as Steve Flashman. Although he may not know it I have been following his painting with some interest as I believe his work is just getting better and better. These wild west models are no exception the detailing on the bases as well as the scratch bult ‘coup stick’ give these models great depth and show off Steve’s skills as a modeller.
All the miniatures on this page are from (you can probably guess by now) Foundry’s Old West range and were painted with Vallejo and Plaka acrylic paints.
Steve does not have his own website yet but he can be found posting pictures and discussing all things painting at Steve Dean’s Forum.
