PORTO CERVO REPORTS.

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REPORTS

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BACKGROUND

The Aga Khan discovered Sardinia’s Costa Smeralda and saw in its brutally blue waters set against untamed landscapes potential for a jet set destination. Since the 1970s Porto Cervo, the glitziest point on the Costa Smeralda, has been the favourite holiday destination of smart Italians. While the rest of Sardinia (the second largest island in the Mediterranean) remains rustic and rugged, Porto Cervo sizzles with people during the high summer. Yawning boats slumber in the port and some surprisingly dated but expensive hotels are fully booked months in advance. True, Porto Cervo is flash, but it is also full of fun.

WHERE TO STAY

BEST HOTELS

The Aga Khan opened four hotels in the 1960s – the Cervo, the Pitrizza, the Cala di Volpe and the Romazzino, whose addresses are simply Porto Cervo, Costa Smeralda. They remain the biggest hotel names in the area, all

different from each other and (except for the Cervo) run under the smooth management of luxury hotel group Starwood. For those who come to see and be seen, the Cala di Volpe should be the number one choice. The hotel recreates a typical Sardinian village, so do be aware that rooms are small and you may be disappointed by the slightly dated feel of the interiors. But people love this place, and many come back year after year.

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fantastic. For those who prefer to be right in the heart of the port, the Cervo

is the best option – it’s the only one of the four with restaurants and shops within walking distance, and the two recently renovated suites are gorgeous; try for these suites, because some of the other rooms can be shabby and claustrophobic. If you’re travelling with children the Romazzino is a great choice, with its own little beach, interconnecting rooms and kids club. It’s extremely popular with British guests.

ALSO WORTH A LOOK

There is life beyond the Aga Khan’s hotels. The Villa Armony is secluded, select and sublime, this hilltop villa is very zen (hard to believe that it’s owned by the people behind the Sotto Vento night club) with a paradisiacal setting, beautiful terraced pool and Balinese-style thatched pavilions perched atop sea-facing cliffs. Sadly the service isn’t brilliant and you will need to book a constant flurry of taxis to get anywhere. Further away in Gallura, La Coluccia has a water’s edge setting, a pool in landscaped gardens and a

private beach. In peak season you have to book a minimum of seven nights. Contemporary, fresh, a little more affordable than some, this is ideal for young couples.

BEST FOR A PARTY

The Piazza del Principe, right in the centre of Porto Cervo, has a complex of traditional-style luxury apartments; most are for sale but some can be rented. They have been created for people who want to entertain; they come with terraces overlooking gardens and the port beyond. With daily maid and room service, you can have privacy but with all the trappings of a hotel too.

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WHERE TO EAT

BEST LUNCH SPOTS

Cala di Volpe has a poolside restaurant where everybody goes for lunch. The bountiful buffets are impressive and include some surprisingly good

Sardinian cheeses. Maître d’ Peppino’s gallantry leaves gents in the cold: on a chilly day he’ll smother ladies with hot towels but tell the men ‘You must suffer in silence’. Villa Armony serves exquisite homemade ravioli in the most fabulous setting, be it the beautiful restaurant with sea views or the terrace outside – it’s worth going for lunch even if you’re not staying in the hotel. Or try The Grill (Cervo) at the Cervo, a homely restaurant with a terrace overlooking the port.

BEST SUPPER SPOTS

Formal: Gianni Pedrinelli is the most famous restaurant in all Sardinia and among the most charming restaurants in the world. The subtly stylish and imaginatively converted Sardinian home retains a rustic and homely feel, despite the art works and marvellous floral arrangements. The inimitable Mr Pedrinelli cannot fail to impress, and flits amongst guests ensuring all is well while his sister supervises the kitchen. The restaurant is known for its

exhaustive antipasti buffet (try the fennel and orange salad) and the puddings (wonderful tiramisu!). This restaurant is always full, so do book ahead. The

Pitrizza restaurant is also worth booking – it has a deeply romantic setting overlooking the pool and offers some of the finest food in Porto Cervo. Chef Andy Gaskin, who once worked at the Fat Duck, has revamped the menu.

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try the spinach and ricotta balls, a local speciality, and the richest-ever pistachio ice cream. The lovely Lorsetto is a favourite with those seeking wonderful service and the best wood-fired pizzas in town. The pastas and typical Sardinian dishes are also good, especially the delicious stuffed cabbage. The first-floor restaurant of Café Prince is a place to see and be seen. The restaurant almost has a split personality with an enchanting and softly lit terrace looking into very modern interiors with eclectic decor. The chef (formerly at the Pitrizza) offers elegantly presented cuisine of such rarefied texture (try the grilled aubergine) that he cannot fail to titillate your palate.

BEST BARS

The Cala di Volpe bar with its wonderful outdoor terrace is ever the most glamorous bar in town. However, Giuseppe, barman at the Pitrizza, serves cocktails in an exquisite alfresco setting and spikes the drinks with his piquant conversation. The Cervo bar is for people watching on the square. You’ll find the best bellinis at the Café Prince on the new Piazza del Principe; the interiors are adorned with cool modern art, but most people prefer the outdoor setting on the square.

BEST OF THE REST

BEST NIGHT ON THE TOWN

One of the most famous nightclubs in the world, Flavio Briatore’s Billionaire

has almost become a synonym for Porto Cervo. Everyone who’s anyone has partied there, and during the season all roads leading to Billionaire are

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BEST SPA

Aqua di Parma offers an excellent spa at Blu Mediterraneo in the Yacht Club.

Arguably one of the most sophisticated among branded spas, with a range of unique treatments and 20 products unavailable elsewhere. Choose from five different fragrances for your treatment and then luxuriate in a 15-minute foot bath. While you sip exotic teas that come in silk bags, the therapist treats your feet with a natural scrub using local minerals and salts and olive oil. The two-hour facial will leave your skin glowing.

BEST SPORTS

Yachting, of course, but now golf too. The beautiful Pevero Golf Club at Cala di Volpe is bordered by the sea and attracts the world’s best players. They also have a Lebanese restaurant Safina.

BEST SHOPS

Esmeralda Bazar (1 via Sotto Piazza; +39 0789 94052) is a lovely boutique fusing a rustic, typically Sardinian feel with contemporary chic – expect to see clothes hanging from branches of trees. For traditional Sardinian

artisanal products, head to Isola (+39 0789 94428) next door. Didi Bambi (2 Piazza degli Archi; +39 0789 94386) does cute children’s clothing and

Colombo’s (Piazzetta delle Chiacchere; +39 0789 909 106) is your best bet for men’s casuals. Piazza del Principe has many top designer boutiques and will soon offer Porto Cervo’s only exclusive wine shop which will focus on supplying private yachts and villas. Pianegonda (3 Piazza degli Archi; + 39 0789 909 048) is the best place for sophisticated jewellery.

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BEST ESCAPE

Cagliari is Sardinia’s capital and cultural centre. It will take you a few hours to get there by car, but the drive from Porto Cervo will take you past the world’s oldest olive tree.

BEST INSIDER TIP

Poltu Quatu was once where boats were stashed to protect them from storms. The hidden little port, a stone’s throw from the Pitrizza, is

surprisingly little known, despite its many restaurants and bars. Do go and explore it. And, as an alternative to well-known see-and-be-seen places, the new fashionable thing is agro-tourism farm restaurants. Ask if there is one close to where you are.