Pants

How to do your own measuring,

pattern drafting, fabric selection,

cutting, and sewing for a perfect fit

Anna Romaniuk and Ellen Knight

.\,;~LIVIERS ELEMEN-fAt~Y :5CrilJOL ' J..l315-75th AVENUE

.. , DELTA, B.C. :'.:·.-,_. . V4C 1 H4

4~

Copp Clark Publishing

A Division of Copp Clark Limited Vancouver Calgary Toronto Montreal

important part of every woman's wardrobe for office, leisure, and formal wear. Pants has been written as a practical guide for those who wish to design and sew "best-fitting" pants for every occasion. The text con-tains all the information you need for accurate measur-ing, drafting the pattern to match the measurements, selecting a suitable fabric, and then cutting out and sewing your new garment.

Home sewers have been learning since 1967 how to draft their own garment patterns, through the Home Study Course offered by the Huron School of Fashion. Anna and Walter Romaniuk, founders of the school, have helped thousands of home sewers to solve their designing and fitting problems. The drafting pr oce-dures given in this book are the result of years of ex-perimentation and testing by Walter Romaniuk. Using this simple, easy-to-follow method, you can draft a pat-tern for slacks to your own individual measurement and body contours. Regardless of your shape or size, you will have a perfectly-fitting garm_ent in the style of your choice, and you can do the same for any number of relatives and friends. This all-new method has made pattern drafting so easy a child can do it.

This publication is the result of many years of com-bined experience in designing, pattern drafting, sew-ing, tailoring, and teaching. Every member of our staff has contributed to it in some way and Janet Logie has given valuable assistance in preparing the manuscript. It is our hope that this book will provide the means for you to enjoy many happy hours of drafting and sewing, and the pride of accomplishment that you will experi-ence when wearing your own perfectly-fitting "custom made" garment. Note that the words pants and slacks are used interchangeably throughout the book.

All measurements are given in both the English and the Metric systems. In every case the measurement is given in inches followed, in brackets, by the measure-ment in centimetres. The measuremeasure-ment in "em" is not always exactly equivalent to the measurement in in-ches. Both measurements are sufficiently accurate.

Anna Romaniuk Ellen Knight

1 The pattern draft 3 Sewing techniques

An Introduction to Pattern Drafting 1 Sewing, Pressing, Fitting the Basic Slacks 25

Measuring 2 Zipper Closings 26

Drafting the Basic Slack Pattern 4 Fly Front Zipper 26

The Basic Slack Pattern 6 _{Side Zipper 30}

Adjustments for Figure Prob!ems 8 _{Additional Types of Closings 31}

Protruding Stomach 8 _{Loops and Buttons 32}

High Hip Curve 8 _{Lacing 32}

One High Hip 10 _{Button Fly 32}

Sway Back 10 _{Invisible Button Fly 35}

Full Derriere 10 _{Pockets 36}

Flat Derriere 12 _{Patch Pocket 36}

Low Crotch Location 12 _{Pocket with Bound (Double Welt)}

Style Variations 14 _{Opening 37}

Straight Leg and Elephant Pants 15 _{Side Seam Pocket 40}

Flared Pants and Slims 16 _{Western Style Pocket 42}

Shorts 17

Waist Finishes 44

Checking the Pattern Draft 18

Waistbands 44

Crotch Depth Measurement 18

Waist Facing 45

Matching Side Seams 18

Elastic Waist 45

Minimum Cuff Measurement 18 _{Waist Yoke 46}

Upper Thigh Measurement 18

Hip-Hugger Pants 47

Minimum Knee Measurement 18 _{Belt Loops 47}

Leg Finishes 48

2 Layout and cutting procedures 19 Hem of Pants Legs 48

Separating the Pattern Pieces 19 Cuffs 49

Estimating the Correct Amount of Fabric 19 Decorative Touches 50

Preparation of the Fabric 20 Children's Slacks 51

Pattern Layout 20 Maternity Slacks 51

Fabrics With a Nap or Direction 21

Prints 21 _{4 Pant fabrics 53}

Plaids 21

Checks 21 Chart !-Fabrics Suitable for Slacks 54

Stripes 21 Chart 11-How to Handle Fabrics 55

Marking and Outlining the Pattern 23

1

An introduction to pattern drafting

Patterns are the basis of most sewn garments. The pattern draft outlines the required shapes and sizes of the sections of fabrics which, when seamed together, form the desired garment. Since the fabric is flat, it must be made to fit the body contours by the removal of wedge-shaped sections called "darts," which are drawn right on the pattern draft. The curved areas such as the stomach, hips, and buttocks, all require shaping or darting if a smooth fit is desired.

If you have not had experience with pattern drafting before, you will need to know a few basics to make the drafting instructions easy to follow. All patterns are constructed within a pattern block, which is a rectangle outlining the length and approximately half the width of the garment. Usually, only half of the front and half of the back pattern need to be drawn as the left and right sides of the body are the same and the pattern will be placed on fabric which is folded double. In the case of slacks, this general rule will hold true except for cer-tain figure faults which will be specified later in the book.

As mentioned, the pattern draft is an outline or drawing of a specific shape, and as such, it will require the use of special instruments when being drafted. The following instru-ments are recommended: a yard-stick or metre-stick with accurate markings for draw-ing and measuring straight lines; a plastic triangle or square which is used to draw 90 degree angles and to keep all the corners of the pattern block square; and a French Curve which is used as an aid in drawing smooth and precise curved lines.

The knowledge of a few terms will also benefit the novice pattern designer. In the instructions, the lines forming the pattern draft may be termed horizontal, vertical, parallel, perpendicular, slanting or curved.

1 9 142 7

./

v\

5 w X Fig. 1 90° 4 y

z

3

On the rectangular pattern block 1 -2-3-4 in Fig. 1, a pattern draft is drawn. Lines (1-2) and (Y-Z) are examples of horizontal lines, while (1-4) and (X-Z) are vertical. A vertical line is said to be per pen-dicular (at 90 degrees) to a horizontal line. Lines (W-Y) and (X-Z) are parallel. (X-5) and (5-14) are examples of slanting lines, while (8-W) and (7-8) are curved lines.

Measuring

All patterns are drawn to predetermined measurements which must be taken with the

utmost care. Knowing how to take measure-ments correctly and accurately cannot be over-emphasized. As it is impossible to take your own measurements, have someone take

them for you, being sure that they take them exactly as explained. Measurements should

be taken while wearing correctly-fitting un-dergarments. The person being measured should stand erect but in her natural manner. Be sure that the tape measure is accurate. Some tapes become stretched after frequent use. Before starting to measure, compare the

markings on the tape to those on the ruler you are planning to use for drafting your patterns. Before drawing up your slack pattern in full scale, it is wise to practise drafting the pattern

in a smaller scale, especially if you are

un-familiar with pattern drafting. Thus the slack

draft could fit on two pieces of paper the size of this page, which can be taped together.

We recommend that you draft your full scale

patterns on any good quality medium weight paper about 36" (92 em) wide; for example, wrapping paper, table paper, or wall paper. Ordinary blank newspaper may also be used. It may be purchased from printers or paper

dealers either in rolls or sheets. If sheets are used, you will probably have to tape two sheets together to make a section large enough for your full scale draft.

Accuracy is the basis of successful pattern drafting. No pattern can fulfill its purpose of a "perfect and flattering fit" unless the meas -urements are taken properly and accurately

and the lines and outlines are drawn with care, neatness, and precision. With this in mind, the successful drafting of your own "perfect-fit"

pattern is assured.

The measurements which are required for drafting the slack pattern and instructions on

how they are to be taken follow.

Record of measurements Waist measurement

Hip measurement

Thigh measurement Knee Location Slack Length

Knee measurement

Cuff measurement

Supplementary Measurements

Slack Length (to floor) Inseam Length (to floor) Subtract for crotch depth

measurement

Minimum Knee measurement Minimum Cuff measurement

Fig. 2

Measurements

Waist measurement- Measure around the waist as tightly or as loosely as the person may prefer the slacks to fit at the waist (Fig. 2).

Hip Measurement- Measure around the ful-lest part of the hips. The easiest way to deter-mine the location of the fullest part of the hips is by placing the tape fairly high around the hips, then while holding the tape firmly but not too tightly, slide the tape down, slowly releas-ing it until the largest part around is found. This can be anywhere from 5" (13 em) to 12" (31 em) below the waistline-with some people the thighs are the largest part.

Thigh Measurement-Measure around the top of the leg just below the crotch. This measurement is taken for checking the pat-tern draft only.

Knee Location- Measure from the side of the waistline down over the hip to the center of the knee on the side.

Slack Length-Measure the finished side length down over the hip from the waist.

Knee Measurement- Measure around the center of the knee while the person is standing up. Check for the ease required by measuring around ~he knee while the person is sitting down.

Cuff Measurement-Measure around the ankle, releasing the tape to the size of cuff desired by the person.

Drafting the basic slack pattern

Pages 6 and 7 contain the drafting instruc-tions for the basic slack pattern. To make these instructions easy to follow, a few expla-nations will be helpful. First of all, you must use both the drawing and the instructions together referring back and forth between the two, checking each instruction with what has been done on the drawing. This procedure is espe-cially important in locating the numbers on the figure which have been referred to in the text. It must be noted that the points on the figure are for the most part numbered in the order in

which they are drawn. For example, the

rec-tangle or pattern block is drawn first and label-led 1-2-3-4 (Fig. 4). The crotch line is measured and drawn next and labelled line 5-P. Then line 6-0, the knee location line is constructed on the pattern. The procedure continues in this manner with instructions for locating the next points 7, 8 etc.

The instructions could begin as follows: "With ruler and pencil draw a straight horizon-tal line from point 1 to point 2 equal to 3_{/a of} your hip measurement. From point 2 draw a vertical line to 3 equal to the length of the slacks. From point 3 draw a horizontal line to point 4 equal to line 1-2. Join point 4 to point 1 to complete the rectangle."

To conserve space the instructions given in the preceding paragraph have been ab-breviated to read: "Horizontal line 1-2 = 3_/a of hip. Vertical line 2-3 = Length of slacks. Complete the rectangle: (3-4)

=

(1-2) and (4-1)

=

(2-3)."

When the pattern instructions read "Mea-sure 2-6 = knee location" assume that since point 6 is on the 2-3 line (as illustrated in Fig. 4), you must place your ruler along line 2-3 and measure down from point 2 the exact knee location measurement in order to mark point 6.

Two pattern blocks will be required for each slack pattern: one block for the front pattern (Fig. 4), and the other for the back pattern (Fig. 5).

Secondly, unless specified as "curved," all lines are considered to be straight. If the line is specified as a "curved line," study the shape of the curve as drawn in Fig. 4, for example, before copying the shape freehand on your

own pattern. Then, match the freehand curve

to one of the edges on your french curve and redraw to make the curve smooth. You may have to draw a curve in two parts. First, match up one section of the curve with one part of your french curve and redraw. Then match the instrument to the other section to smooth out the remaining part of the freehand curve.

. Thirdly, the final step in drafting the basic slack pattern involves constructing the waist darts. In the abbreviated instructions only the location and size of these darts are given. When you reach this stage in drafting your slack pattern read Page 5 while referring to Fig. 3.

Seam Allowance

When you draft your own slack pattern you are working on the actual measurements which do not include an allowance for seams. For information about seam allowances please refer to pages 23 and 24.

Darts

Front darts A and B (Fig. 3) are 3

_{14'' (2 em) wide}

and 41/2" (11.5 em) long. Dart B is separated from dart A by 1" (2.6 em). Draw dart A first using line A-11 as the centerline. Measure 3_/a" (1 em) on either side of point A. Draw in dart lines from these points to a point on the center-line 41/2" (11.5 em) below A. Measure 1" (2.6

em) towards point 14 from this dart. Then measure a further 3_{14'' (2 em) for the second} dart. Point B marks the mid-point of the sec-ond dart. First, draw the center line from point

Bat 90 degrees to line (9-14), and 41/2" (11.5

em) long. Then draw in dart lines from the

points 3_{/a" ( 1 em) either side of B to the end of}

the centerline.

9

1 CM. 2CM.

Fig. 3.

Back darts E and Fare located 1/2" (1.3 em) on either side of mid-point of line (9a-14),

3_{/4'' (2 em) wide and 5" (13 em) long. First, find}

the mid-point of 9a--14. Measure from this mid-point 1/2" (1.3 em) towards the center

back seam and place a mark. Measure a further 3_{14'' (2 em) and place another mark for} dart E. Draw in the centerline for this dart at 90

degrees to line (9a- 14) 5" (13 em) long. Draw

in dart lines from the two dart marks down to the end of the centerline. Locate the other

back dart (F) by measuring from the mid-point

1_{/2" (1.3 em) towards the side seam for the first}

dart mark and a further 3_{14'' (2 em) for the} second mark. Draw the centerline as for dart E and join the dart lines. The measurements

given for the length of these darts are

stan-dard measurements for front and back waist

darts. But, if required, these darts may be

lengthened or shortened.

Men's Pants can be made from this basic

pattern, but, as they do not have darts in the front you must make this change in the pattern draft: 9 to 14 on the front pattern is equal to 1_/4

of the waist measurement, rather than the 1/4 of the waist plus 11/2" (3.8 em) as used on the

basic pattern draft for women.

For a knit or stretch fabric you must make this change in the pattern draft: draft the pat-tern u~ing the Hip Measurement less 2" (4 em). For example, if the Hip Measurement is 38" (96 em), the pattern is drafted using 36" (92 em). The knit or stretch fabric allows for

ease in fitting. This ease is allowed for in the drafting instructions for the basic pattern for use with normal fabrics.

Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 are drawn to scale from the measurements given at the top of Fig. 4.

Sub-stitute your measurements for those given and

you will have a pattern suitable for your own slacks.

It is wise to make up a trial pattern first if you

are dubious about following the instructions. Once you have convinced yourself how easy it

is to draft the pattern using these abbreviated instructions, you will find that with a little prac-tice you can make a pattern in 15-20 minutes.

The basic slack pattern Front

DIRECTIONS

PATTERN Horizontal line 1-2 = 3_{/a of hip}

BLOCK Vertical line 2---3 = length of

slacks Complete rectangle: (3-4) = (1-2) (4-1) = (2---3) Make 2-5 = 1_{/4 of hip+ 1" (2.5} em)

Make 2---6 = knee location Draw horizontal lines 5-P and

6--0

FRONT Measure 5-7= 1_{/4 of hip} Measure from point 7, 1_{/4 of} (5-7) and mark point 8. Point 11 is mid-point of (5-8). Draw vertical line through point 11 parallel to (2---3) intersecting line (1-2) at A, knee location at point 12, and line (3-4) at point 13.

Measure A-9 = 1_{/a of waist} Joint 7-9

(7-1 0) = (7 --8)

Join 8 to 10 with curved line as shown.

Add 3" (8 em) to knee width. Measure 1_{/4 of cuff width on}

each side of 13 and mark Y and

Z.

Draw leg seams by joining 5- X -Z and 8-W-Y.

Make (9- 14)=1_{/4 of waist} + 11_{/2"(4 em) (for darts)}

Join 5-14 with a slightly curved line as shown.

Front Darts A and B are 3_{14'' (2} em) wide and 41_{/2" (15 em) long.} Separate the two darts by 1" (2.5 em). Q

4

MEASUREMENTS IN. CM WAIST 30 76 HIP 40 104 LENGTH 36 92 KNEE LOCATION 22 56 KNEE MEAS. 15 38 CUFF MEAS. 18 46

9

10

FRONT

W 12----§X 6

y

13

z

3

Fig. 4

The basic slack pattern Back 2 14 BACK

a

_w+---+12--~x

_s

4

y

13

z

3

Fig. 5 DIRECTIONS

BACK Construct a second pattern block, exactly the same as the front, for the back pattern. Measure 5-7

=

1_{/4 of hip} Measure 1-9 = 3/4 of 5-7 9a is 1/2" (1.3 em) above 9 Joint 7 to 9a. Measure 7-10 = 1_{/4 of 5-7} Point 8 is 3

_14''

_{(2 em) below 8 on} line (1--4).

Join 8-10 with curved line as shown.

Mark 11 same distance from 5 as on front.

Construct vertical line 11-12 -13 parallel to line (2---3). Make knee and cuff width

mark-ings as for front. Join W-Yand X-Z.

Draw back inseam from 8 to W curving in 1/2" (1.3 em) from straight guideline 8-W as shown.

Measure (7- 9a)

(7-15) = 1/3 of (7-9a)

15-16

=

1_{/4 of hip. Locate point} 16 on extended 7-5 line.

Join 16 to X

9a-14 = 1/4 of waist+ 11/2" (3.8 em) (for darts).

Draw 9a-14 through 2. Join 14-16 as shown. Note:

Draw-ing the waistline (9-14) through point 2 usually locates point 14 accurately. However,

measure 14-16 (Back Pattern)

and 5-14 (Front Pattern) to check that the side seams are equal. If necessary move point

14 up or down. Use the required amount and redraw 9-14,

ig-noring point 2.

Back darts E and F are located

1_{/2" (1.3 em) either side of}

mid-point of 9a-14, 3

_14''

_{(2 em) wide}

and 5" (13 em) long.

Adjustments for figure problems

Although this slack pattern will eliminate the need to alter for variations in figure pr opor-tions, certain figure problems will require pat-tern adjustments. On these following six pages, the left hand pages contain descri p-tions of the figure problems and how they distort the fit of the pants. On the right hand pages, opposite the problems, are detailed

1. Protruding stomach - Problem

a) The stomach may protrude enough to cause a slight strain across the abdominal area of the pants.

b) A larger stomach may cause the pants to pull up over the protrusion, resulting in wrink -les as shown in Fig. 6a.

Fig. 7a

instructions on how to adjust the pattern for each problem to correct the fit. Do not an tici-pate problems based on past experiences with commercial patterns or ready-made slacks. First.draft the pattern exactly as de

-scribed on the previous pages using your own measurements. Following the instructions in

the succeeding chapters for the correct

pat-tern layout, seam allowance (page 24) and sewing procedures, cut the pattern out and sew it up in some inexpensive fabric such as

Fig. 6a

2. High hip curve- Problem

Hips curve out sharply from the waist. If insuf-ficient contour is allowed for these curves, the pants will wrinkle as shown in Fig. ?a.

muslin or an old sheet. Add a waistband and press. Try the pants on, pinning the opening and waistband closed. Stand normally and have someone check the fit. Some wrinkles will naturally form· when you move or do not stand straight, but these are not the type of wrinkles you are to look for. Instead, check that the pants hang straight and fit smoothly with no unusual wrinkles or pullings. If you do spot a problem area, look through the follow-ing information to determine the cause of the problem and its solution.

Fig. 6b

2. High hip curve - Solution

For high hip curves, measure the distance (a) from the side waist down to the location of the largest part of the curve and then determine the circumference (b) of the body at this loca-tion. On the front pattern measure from point

14 down the distance (a) and draw a horizon -tal line across the pattern at this point. The horizontal line must equal 1_{/4 of the above} measurement (b), as measured from the cen-terfront seam. Redraw the hip curves through this width. Similarly alter the back pattern. Darts may need to be shortened slightly.

When the hip measurement is over 44" (112

em), check that there is sufficient width in the pattern in the area about 4" to 5" (1 0- 13 em) below the waist as described above.

This method may also be used for people with very high hip locations. Take the hip

It must be remembered that to become pro-fessional in anything you do, it is necessary to work and practice by yourself. Similarly, with this pattern, you will have to do some experi-menting on your own to get a truly excellent fit. So do not get discouraged on your first try. Subsequent adjustments and fittings will prove very rewarding. Once you have per-fected your own basic slack pattern, you will be able to make any pant style with success, and the experience you will have gained in solving any fitting problem will be invaluable.

1. Protruding stomach - Solution

a) When the protrusion is not large, curving the darts slightly inwards as shown will solve the problem.

b) To introduce sufficient room for the larger stomach alter the pattern as follows: slash the pattern from A to B. Spread the top section the amount required for the protruding stomach.

k.

(b) I I I I I I

a

Fig. 7b

measurement around the fullest part of the derriere. Draft the pattern on this measure-ment and alter for high hip curves at the actual hip location.

3. One high hip - Problem

One hip is higher than the other. When enough

room is not allowed for the higher side, the

pants will wrinkle on this side and distort the fit.

Fig. 9a

5. Full derriere - Problem

The problem of a large derriere may cause

pullings in the crotch area of the slacks as

shown. These pullings are the result of insuffi -cient length in the back crotch curve. How-ever, this problem most often results from

in-accurate measuring, pattern drafting, or

sew-ing.

Fig. Sa

4. Sway back - Problem

For the sway back problem, horizontal

wrink-les will appear below the waist. A sway back hollows noticeably in the waist area causing

the back waistline t6 curve down in the middle of the back.

3. One high hip - Solution

When this adjustment is necessary, the pant

sections will have to be cut singly. Two front

patterns and two back patterns will be

re-quired. One front and one back should be altered for the high hip. The other two patterns should be left as drafted. Lay out the patterns

carefully so that the left and right pant sections

will correspond to the normal and high sides

of your body.

To adjust the pattern for this problem, draw

a horizontal line across the front and back

patterns about 5" (13 em) below the waist.

Slash this line from the side seam to within

1_{/16" (.1 em) of center seam. Spread the top}

section as showt:l to introduce more room for the one higher hip. To determine the amount of spreading required measure from the side waist to the floor on both sides of the body.

14

Fig. 9b

5. Full derriere - Solution

To allow more room for the derriere, the back crotch curve will have to be made longer by

extending it past the original crotch point 8 and redrawing the back inseam from the new

crotch point in to the original inseam line. (See the dotted line in Fig. 1 Ob). For pants that have already been sewn together, let out the back inseam to provide more room for the derriere.

Fig. 8b

The difference in the measurements will be

the amount the pattern is to be spread. Darts

may need to be shortened on the higher side.

Redraw the center seam as shown in Fig. 8b.

4. Sway back- Solution

To eliminate the horizontp.l wrinkles caused by

the sway back, use line (9-14) for the back waistline of the pants instead of line (9a-14). (See Fig. 9b.)

8

6. Flat derriere - Problem

Excessive looseness in the derriere area will result when the derriere is flat, as too much room has been provided in the back crotch.

L J

I

Fig. 12a

Fig. 11a

7. Low crotch location - Problem

If you have a low crotch location which has not been allowed for in 1/4 hip

+

1" (2.5 em)

measurement used on pattern, the pants will form a pleat at the front crotch.

Fig. 11b

7. Low crotch location - Solution

The crotch seam can be resewn lower and the

seam allowances cut down if the pants have

already been made up. To correct this on the pattern, take the inseam and the side seam measurements to the floor. The difference be-tween these two measurements is the di s-tance from the waist to the crotch line on your pattern.

6. Flat derriere - Solution

To determine if you will need to make the back crotch smaller, measure the inseam length from crotch to floor (see page 18) and the side length from the side waist to the floor. Subtract the two measurements for the crotch depth measurement. Use this measurement for the distance from the waist to the crotch line on your pattern. Then, tie a string around your waist to mark the waist position and measure the crotch curve from the center front waist down and under the crotch and back up to the center back waist. Compare this measur e-ment to the length of the seams from point 9 to

point 8 on the front pattern plus 9a to 8 on the back pattern. If you find the pattern is more than 2" --3" (5- 7.5 em) in excess of your crotch curve measurement, you may want to take 1_{/2" to} 3_{14'' (1.3-2 em) off the back crotch}

as shown.

Slims

Style variations

By altering the measurement of the pant legs in the cuff, knee or thigh area, you can vary the

line of the pants greatly. Straight-legged, flares, elephant or baggie pants, slims and shorts are styles which can easily be made with the basic slack pattern procedure. The following pages will show you how to adjust the basic pattern for the various styles shown on this page.

Shorts

Flores Fig. 13

Straight leg and elephant pant styles

The Straight-legged style is the style featured

in the basic slack pattern draft (Figs. 4 and 5).

The pant leg is equal in width from the knee, or

just above the knee, to the cuff. This style may give the leg an illusion of length if the cuff is allowed to hang down over a shoe with a

higher heel.

Hot Pants may be made from this pattern.

Measure the length desired down from the

side waist. Cut the pant pattern at this length.

Allow for the cuff as shown on page 17.

Elephant or Baggie Pants are popular for

various times of the day. Daytime and sport

plaids create their own look, while soft drapey

fabrics create the evening look. For Elephant

or Baggie Pants the basic slack pattern forms

the outline, then the pant legs are drawn

straight down from the hips to the hem. Slight

shaping may be desired at the seat, but there

is little or no shaping in the thigh or knee area.

This pant style may be cuffed or simply

hem-med. Draw the pant legs straight down from 8

and 5 (Fig. 14) on the front pattern toY and Z at

the hem. Measure from 12 to W on the front

pattern and measure this same distance from

12 and mark Won the back pattern. Draw the

back side seam straight down to Z. Curve the

back inseam in slightly, as shown, down to the

knee and then straight down to Y.

n

,

MEASUREMENTS IN. CM WAIST 24 61 HIP 36 92 KNEE LOCATION 21 53 LENGTH 34 86

a..)•

,,

5 FRONT BACK

w

12 X

w

12 X Fig. 14 y ₁₃

_z

y ₁₃

z

Flared pants and slims

Slims are characterized by a narrow cuff

width. First decide on the width of cuff

de-sired. Refer to page 18 for measuring the

minimum size of cuff you can use. Measure 1_/4

of the desired cuff width on either side of point

MEASUREMENTS IN. CM

WAIST 26 66

HIP 38 96

LENGTH 35 89

FLARED CUFF MEAS. 20 51

FRONT

w

12 X

FLARES SLIMS

""'

/

13 and mark points a and b. Join a and b to the knee width points for the leg seams as shown in solid lines on the diagram. There are many possible variations of this pattern. The pant legs of slims may be altered in length to create

peddle-pusher or deck pants styles, or slit 6" (15 em) or so up from the hem.

MEASUREMENTS IN. CM KNEE LOCATION 21Xz 54.5 KNEE MEAS. 14 36 CUFF MEAS. 13 ::)3

w

12 X Fig. 15

y

0 13

b

z

y

a

13

b

z

The Flare Pants or "bells" which are fitted to the knee, or just above the knee, flare out to a very wide cuff. This style may give an illusion of height depending on the length of the pant leg and the height of the shoe heel worn. Knee width is drawn as for the basic pattern. Draw the leg seams from the knee location out to 1_/4

of the cuff measurement at points y and z as measured on either side of point 13. The broken line on the diagram represents the pattern adjustment for flares.

Shorts

Shorts may also be made from the basic slack draft. Draw the length of the pattern block equal to the length of the shorts as measured

down from the side waist. To determine the cuff measurement of the shorts, measure around your thigh at the length of the shorts

desired and add 2" -4" (5-1 0 em) for ease. Take 1_{/4 of this measurement on both sides of}

pointE and mark C and D. (Fig. 16). Draw the leg seams as shown.

On this pattern the waistline is drawn as 1_/4 of the waist measurement

+

3_{14'' (2 em) for an} elasticized waistline. (See page 45 for de-tails).

For the hem allowance draw a horizontal (dotted) line on the pattern 2" (5 em) above C-D. Fold the bottom of the pattern under on line C-D. Place a sheet of tracing paper under the pattern and trace up the pant seams 2" (5 em) and across the dotted line to transfer the markings for the hem allowance to the bottom of the pattern.

MEASUREMENTS IN. CM WAIST 26 66 HIP 38 96 CUFF MEAS. 20 51 FRONT BACK

a

,

...I

11 ₅ r-- - - - --

-

--

-

---a

I

c

E D L I Fig. 16

Checking the pattern draft

Once you have completed the pattern draft,

you may want to make a final check that your

pattern will fit you in the areas which have

been drawn to standard procedures or

meas-urements.

Crotch depth measurement

If you are exceptionally long or short from the

waist to the crotch, check to see that the

crotch line is in the correct position on your

pattern. Subtract the inseam length to the floor

from the side length to the floor. The result is

the crotch depth which is the distance (2-5)

on the pattern.

The inseam is accurately measured by at-taching one end of the measuring tape to a

pencil. Take this measurement as follows:

Place the pencil between the legs at the

crotch and measure down the inside of the leg·

to the floor.

Matching side seams

It is best to check that the side seams will

match when sewn together. Measure the front

and back side seams on the pattern, from

Point 14 to the knee location. If unequal, alter

the position of Point 14 on the back pattern up

or down (Fig. 5), retaining the correct distance

from Point 9, until the side seams are equal in

length.

Minimum cuff measurement

The minimum cuff measurement at the ankle is

determined by measuring around the foot as

shown in Fig. 17. Cuffs of slims can not be

made narrower than this measurement,

un-less the pant leg is slit about 4" (1 0 em) up

from the hem.

Fig. 17

Upper thigh measurement

Measure around the leg just below the crotch.

Add 3" (7.5 em) to this measurement for ease

in non-stretch fabrics and 2" (5 em) for knit or

stretch fabrics. If a tighter fit is desired add

only 1" (2.5 em). Measure the distance (a)

down from the side waist to the point where

this thigh measurement was taken (Fig. 18).

On both patterns mark the distance (a) down

from Point 14 and draw a horizontal line (S-T)

across the pant leg of each pattern.

Compare the length of this line (front plus

back patterns) with the upper thigh

measure-ment

+

1", 2", or 3" (

+

2.5, 5, or 7.5 em).

Remove any excess by taking in the leg

seams by equal amounts as shown in Fig. 18.

If this measurement is larger than the pattern,

add the difference to the pattern leg seams,

adding 1_{/4 of the extra required to each seam}

at location (a).

J

(a}

l

I I I I ~--+--~,T I Fig. 18

Minimum knee measurement

Measure around the fully bent knee to get the

minimum width of the pattern at the knee loca

.,

-Separating the pattern pieces

Before purchasing and cutting out your pant

fabric you should separate the pattern from its block. Cut along the heavy solid lines as indi

-cated on the Basic Slack Pattern draft (refer to pages 6 and 7). Cut out the darts on the pat-tern pieces only to simplify transfer of sewing lines on the fabric. If pockets, waist facing, yoke or fly are to be used, draw them directly on the slack draft, and then trace onto

sepa-rate sheets of paper to avoid cutting up the front and back patterns. For more information on these style details see Chapter 3.

Label all pattern pieces. Signify whether each piece is to be placed on the fold, to be cut single, double or in fours. Mark all vertical lines on the pattern "lengthwise grainline," or

"straight of goods."

Notches are important for any sewer. On the slack patterns notches are marked on both sides of the knee location (points Wand X), at the intersection of the crotch line and the side

seam-point 5 (front), point 16 (back), and at the intersection of the creaseline with the waistline. A notch may also be placed on the center front and back seams at point 1 0.

Estimating the correct amount of fabric To save money, you will want to be able to buy the exact amount of fabric required for your

pattern.

Once you have separated the pattern pieces, you can easily determine the required amount by taking the patter"n pieces to the fabric store with you .. With so many different uses for slacks and so many fabrics on the

market today, choosing the right fabrics for your slacks has become a big decision. For help with this problem, refer to Chapter 4 on

Fabrics, page 53.

When you have selected the fabric, ask the salesgirl to unroll about two yards of the bolt. Lay out your pattern pieces on this length following the directions for Pattern Layout given on page 20. Remember to allow for

seam allowances and hem. Then measure the length required.

If you have previously decided on a fabric and therefore have the advantage of knowing

its width, you can accurately determine the length required at home. Stretch two lengths (about 2 yards) of string on the floor to repres

-ent 1_{/2 the width of the fabric. Place your pat} -tern pieces between the two strings leaving enough space between them for seam al low-ances and hems. Remember to allow for

waistband, pockets, etc., if used. After the pattern pieces are placed, the exact length of

the fabric required can then be measured. Special layout procedures are required for fabrics featuring a directional design or nap, checks, plaids and uneven stripes. Generally, checked, plaid and striped fabrics require the addition of two extra design repeats (eg., 2 plaid blocks) to the length for matching.

Preparation of the fabric

Depending on the nature of the fabric you

have chosen, certain precautionary measures are necessary to prepare the fabric for cu

t-ting. To determine whether the fabric requires pre-shrinking refer to the chart on Page 53. Before cutting, all washable knits and crimps

should be washed and drier dried at wash and

wear setting as they may have been stretched

when rolled in bolts. It is wise to then press and apply a spray fabric finish to give body to the knit fabric for sewing. Cottons should be

wet thoroughly, left to air dry on a flat surface,

and then pressed with steam setting. To

pre-shrink wools, wet an old sheet thoroughly.

Place the wool on top of the sheet and, starting

at one end, fold the sheet and wool together over and over to the other end. Leave the fabric folded for several hours to allow the

wool to absorb the moisture from the sheet.

Then remove the sheet and lay the wool out

flat to dry. Instead you may take the entire

length to the dry cleaners for a steam pres-sing, or place a wet sheet on top of the wool

and steam press at home.

Checking the grain of the fabric is another

important step. The lengthwise and crosswise

yarns must be at 90 degrees to each other to

ensure that the garment will hang properly when finished.

One method of checking the grain requires you to even out the raw edges of the fabric

by pulling a crosswise yarn close to one end

so that puckers form across the fabric

mark-ing this one yarn. Cut across the fabric on this

yarn. This end is now "trued" to the crosswise

grain. Repeat for other end. Check to see that

the corners of the fabric are square by

com-paring with the corner of a rectangular table. If the corners do not match, the fabric is off grain. To straighten the grain, either pull the

opposite corners of the fabric until they are

square, or use your iron to ease the lengthwise

and crosswise yarns into correct alignment.

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. With raw

edges even, pin the selvages together. If the

fabric permits, steam press from selvage edges towards the fold to remove excess

wrinkles and thus straighten the grain.

Avoid permanent press fabrics which are

off grain as they can not be straightened satis

-factorily.

The grain should be straightened before or

after pre-shrinking depending on the method used. Washable fabrics may be pulled on

grain after wetting; wool fabrics right after

being unrolled from the sheet. Fabrics which

do not require preshrinking should be

straightened before proceeding to the next step.

After the fabric has been prepared, fold it in

half lengthwise with the right sides together.

Pin the selvages every 12" (30 em) or so. For

striped, checked or plaid fabrics, make sure

that matching stripes or blocks are directly on

top of one another. Then pin the two layers at

regular intervals. Pin slippery fabrics such as

sheers or light weight crepes to tissue paper before placing the pattern and cutting, to pr

e-vent the fabrics from slipping and stretching

during handling.

Pattern layout

Before you purchase the exact amount of

fab-ric you will require, you must know how to

place the pattern pieces correctly on the fab -ric. Figs. 19, 20 and 21 on pages 22 and 23 show the proper placement of the front and

back patterns on different fabrics. All vertical

lines on the pattern pieces should be placed

along the lengthwise grain or the straight of

goods of the fabric. For accuracy, adjust the

pattern so that the distance from the pattern grainline to the selvage edges of the fabric is

the same along the length of the pattern piece.

If necessary, the crotch piece can be cut out

separately as shown on Fig. 21. Waistline fac

-ings may be placed with the center front on the fold to eliminate the bulk of an extra seam,

only if a side opening is used. Remember to

allow for seam and hem allowances for each

pattern piece. Once the position of each piece is decided, pin (or, if recommended, tape) the pattern to the fabric so that it does not shift nor slip out of place.

Checks, plaids, stripes, and one way fab-rics, all require extra attention with respect to pattern layout (see Figs. 19 and 20). Care must be taken in the placement of design sections, in the matching of the design at the seams, and in the placement of the pattern

when the fabric features a nap or one way

design. Each of the above types of fabric are discussed separately below.

Fabrics with a nap or direction

To determine whether a fabric has a nap, rub the hand up and down the surface of the mat-erial. If there is a difference in the feel, bet-ween the two directions, the fabric has a nap. Notice also the slight change in colour as the nap is disturbed

.-AII napped fabrics must be cut so that the

nap is running in the same direction through-out the garment. Cut velvet and corduroy pants with the nap running up from the cuffs to the waist. These fabrics will then have a richer, deeper appearance. Secure the pattern pieces with scotch tape or pin with silk pins to the wrong side of the fabric.

Wool broadcloth and other napped fabrics

must be cut with the nap running down from waist to hem.

Certain prints and plaids also must be cut

with the design running in the same direction

on all pant sections. Usually you can tell if the

directional treatment is necessary just by

look-ing at the print or plaid. To make sure, place

opposite ends of fabric beside each other in a

manner such that the design is running one

way on one end, and the opposite way on the

other end. Check to see if there is a difference

in appearance between the two. If the design

is not completely symmetrical, directional treatment is required.

Prints

If the design on the print is large, matching at

the seams may be necessary. If the print

fea-tures a dominant shape, repeated at regular

intervals, decide on the most effective

place-ment of these shapes. For example, avoid

placing a dominant shape on the widest part

of the hips or derriere. Keep in mind that the

left and right sides must be in balance.

Check the print to determine if it will require

special directional layout.

Plaids

Some plaids will also require the directional

layout. Such fabrics are the uneven plaids

which do not have a symmetrical stripe ar-rangement in the lengthwise and crosswise

directions, as well as the plaid fabrics with

napped surfaces. If these fabrics are to be cut double, special fabric preparation is required. Pin one plaid section directly on top of the

other t::>efore placing the pattern pieces. But

the fabric can be cut single, if desired.

All plaids should be matched at the pant

seams, and if possible the vertical plaid

stripes should meet to form a chevron or vee

at shaped seams. To match plaids at

seam-lines, place corresponding notches on the

same plaid lines (see Fig. 20).

Checks

Generally, checks do not-have to be matched

if less than one half inch (1.3 em) in width.

Larger checks are treated as horizontal stripes with respect to pattern layout, and matching at side seams and inseams.

Stripes

Place the most obvious stripes where they will

look best. For horizontal stripes, place the

dominant stripe at the cuff, unless this stripe

will occur also on the widest part of the hip.

With vertical stripes, the dominant stripe can

be centered in the middle of each pant leg.

For a straight pant leg, a wide dominant stripe

down the side seam may be desirable. These pointers should be considered when placing pattern on plaid fabrics, too, as plaids often

feature a dominant stripe in the vertical and/or horizontal direction.

If vertical stripes are evenly spaced in a repeating manner, they may be matched at the shaped side seams to chevron both above and below the knee. If vertical stripes are un-even, they will probably not chevron on the shaped side seams.

Horizontal stripes should be matched at side seams and inseams. If stripes are un-evenly spaced you must place front and back patterns in the same direction on the fabric, so that the stripe arrangement will be the same both front and back.

These directions apply also to some fabrics which have a striped texture such as wide wale corduroy.

Pattern layout for directional striped

fabrics

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F

1/

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I) J II 1-.; ....

1\

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Fig. 19

'

Pattern layout for directional plaid or checked fabrics I I

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,_ 1---l,_

J

1

J

I

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..

~ ~-~

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Fig. 20

In Figs. 19 and 20 the material features an

even vertical and/or horizontal stripe. The ver -tical centerline and crotch line (and conse-quently the knee location line and the hemline) of the front pattern are placed on correspond -ing areas of the stripes as are the vertical centerline and crotch line (knee location line and hemline) of the back pattern. In this way,

the horizontal stripes will match at the seams,

and the vertical stripes will meet to form a chevron or vee at the side seams.

Fig. 21 shows how the front and back pat-terns may be placed when the fabric does not feature a oneway design or nap. Vertical cen-terlines must be placed parallel to the selvage edges. Note that the back crotch may be cut separately, as shown, when the fabric is not quite wide enough to cut full front and full back patterns.

Pattern layout for non directional fabrics

Fig. 21

Marking and outlining the pattern

Once the pattern pieces are pinned or sec-ured in place (Fig. 22) on the fabric, measure and mark the seam allowances on the fabric with soft tailor's chalk or sharpened chalk.

Mark 5_{/s" ( 1.5 em) seam allowance to all} seams unless otherwise specified. Widen the center back allowance to 11 /2" ( 4 em) at the waist and the back inseam to 11/2" (4 em) at the crotch. This addition allows for alteration in

case of weight gain. We also suggest adding

3

_14''

_{(2.5 em) seam allowance on the side}

seams as a precautionary measure. These seam allowances may be trimmed down after fitting, if unnecessary. Hem allowance is usu-ally 2" (5 em).

Just before cutting out the pants. trace

around the pattern pieces marking the seam lines and darts with chalk on the top layer of the fabric. Mark notches and any other con-struction lines you feel may help you to sew up the pants.

Cutting the fabric

To cut the fabric use sharp straight sheers (never pinking sheers). Cut with long even strokes on seam allowance lines. (Refer to Chart II on Page 55 to check whether special cutting techniques are required for the differ -ent fabrics.)

Once the pants are cut out, remove the pattern pieces from the pant sections.

Re-verse the two layers of each section so that the wrong sides are together and pat along the seam lines and darts to transfer chalk mark

Seam allowances

FRONT

I.SGM.

or as complex as you desire. A pair of slacks with no closing and an elastic waist can be sewn together in a matter of minutes. A

tai-lored pair of pants with a fly front and welt pockets will take considerably longer to make.

But regardless of the complexity of the style

and the time involved in sewing your pants

together, certain procedures must be

fol-lowed if your pants are going to look and fit well on you. The sewing techniques involved in constructing slacks are just as important as

the drafting, cutting, and layout procedures

previously discussed.

The following section covers the proper procedures for sewing the basic slacks to -gether. The remaining sections in this chapter consist of detailed instructions on the drafting and sewing procedures for the different fea-tures which may be added to the slacks to vary the style and give the slacks a more pro-fessional finish. These features include clos-ings, pockets, waist finishes, and leg finishes.

Sewing, pressing, fitting the basic slacks

After the pants have been cut out, the edges of the pant sections must be zig-zagged or

pinked if the material has a tendency to fray.

Since seam lines and darts are indicated with chalk markings right on the fabric, it is easy to

sew the pants together. First, sew in the waist darts directing the stitching from the waist straight down to the point of the darts. To help you sew the darts smoothly, place the straight

dart line and stitch along the edge of the cardboard. It is important to get a good point to your dart for a smooth fit in your finished garment. Next, sew the front and back i n-seams and side n-seams of the left and right

pant sections together, stitching from the

bot-tom of the pants up to the crotch or waist,

matching the notches. Baste these seams

be-fore stitching to prevent one layer from sli p-ping on the other. Stretch the back inseam above the knee slightly to match the front i n-seam from knee to crotch. The last seam to be sewn in the pants is the crotch seam which is stitched from the center front waist around to

the center back waist. Baste this seam first

with the left leg turned inside out and placed

inside the right leg to keep the material out of the way while stitching. Stretch the back crotch seam while stitching to give the pants a more comfortable shape. When you join ·the left and right sections together with a continu -ous crotch seam, the pants will have a smoother appearance and fit. It is wise to sew the crotch twice to reinforce this seam as it is subject to a good deal of stress and strain during normal wearing.

Press the right and left pant sections right after the inseams and side seams have been sewn. Open the seam allowances and press

them out flat, using a piece of board which is placed inside the pant leg between the two layers to prevent pressing the bottom layer. Since different fabrics require different pres

-sing techniques, refer to Chart II on page 55 to check for special instructions on pressing your fabric.

When the seams and darts have been sewn and pressed, the pants should be tried on to check the fit. Sew the side seam all the way up to the waist and press open. Then open the left

side seam from the waist down about 7" to 9" (18 to 23 em) for the closing. You may find that you will need to make minor adjustments to perfect the fit of your pants. For example, the curve of the side seams over the hip area may

need altering to better suit your shape. You may want to take in the back inseam to fit the

pants tightly in the thigh area. Do not over-fit your pants! If you do, you will find that there is

too little ease left for sitting, bending, and walking with comfort. If you do find there is a major fitting problem, refer back to page 8 for the solution.

Once the crotch seam has been sewn and

the pants have been fitted, press the crease line for the front and back pant legs by placing

the inseam and side seam of each pant leg

directly on top of one another and pressing

from the center of the leg out towards the

folded edge. S_ee Fig. 23.

Then pockets may be added. At this stage a

zipper or another type of closing is sewn into the side, center front, or center back. Finally

the waistband or facing and the pant hems are sewn.

Lining

If possible, pants should be left unlined. How

-ever, a see-through material may require a lining. In this case, preshrink the lining before cutting. Then either sew the lining to the fabric

sections and handle them as one material for the construction of the pants, or sew up the lining separately and attach it to the pants at the waistline only. When the lining is separate, the pressing of the pants is easier than when the lining is sewn to the pant sections. Since it is attached only at the waistline, the lining may

be pulled inside out and pressed separately

from the pants. The method of lining used will

depend on the style, the material, and the

effect you want the lining to give to the finished

garment.

Fig. 23

Zipper closings

The zipper closing is the most practical

clos-ing for pants and is the most widely used type

of closing today. There are several ways of applying a zipper: fly front, lap method, center application, and invisible type. Since the in-structions for the last two types are given right on the zipper packages, we will concentrate mainly on the first two methods of zipper clos

-ings mentioned.

Fly front zipper

Insert the fly front zipper in the center front

cases place the zipper on the straight part of

the center front seam. If you need a longer opening, extend the zipper slightly into the

curve of the crotch as shown in the illustra-tions. You may find that you have to shorten

the zipper. Do this, after the zipper has been sewn into the waist seam, by cutting· off the

unnecessary amount from the top of the zip

-per. Then, trim any excess that may extend more than 3_{/a" ( 1 em) into the waistband or}

waist facing.

Fig. 24

Two strips of the pant material are required

tor facings. The general shape of these fac-ings is shown in Fig. 25, ending in a blunt point

about 1/2" (1.3 em) below the end of the zipper.

The suggested width is 2" (5 em).

The first step in constructing the fly front is to trim the center front seam allowances down to

1_{/2'' (1.3 em). With edges even, place the}

closed zipper face down on the left front

sec-tion of the pants just below the waist seamline.

Baste it in place (Fig. 24-1 ). Aligning the straight edge of the facing with the edges of

the zipper tape and the pant section, place the fly facing on top of the zipper. Baste. Stitch

through all three thicknesses 1_{14'' (.7 em) (Fig.} 25-1). Mark the end of the zipper with a 1_14''

(.7 em) incision, as illustrated in Fig. 29-2.

Fig. 25

RIGHT SIDE

Turn the facing and zipper over so that the right sides face up (Fig. 26-1 ). Roll the pant material towards the teeth of the zipper (Fig.

26-2). Baste the rolled edge in place close to

Fig. 26

RIGHT SIDE

Cut a piece of lining on the bias the shape of

the fly facings but slightly larger and with the

extension as shown (Fig. 26-4). Baste the lin-ing to the right side of the fly extension along

WRONG SIDE

Fig. 27

the curved edges. Stitch (Fig. 26-5). Fold the lining over to the wrong side, rolling the seam slightly to the back and baste along the fold (Fig. 27 -3). Press. Fold the straight edge of the lining under so that it will hide all raw edges and the zipper tape (Fig. 27-1). Baste it in

place.

(NOTE: (Fig. 27 shows seam 5 (Fig. 26) un-sewn at the top to give you an inside view of how the seam allowances have been pres

-sed.)

Fig. 28

RIGHT SIDE

2

Turn the work to the right side and, using the zipper foot, topstitch close to the basted fold of the material (Fig. 26-2) through all thicknes -ses. This row of stitching will catch the folded edge of the lining in place underneath 2 (Fig.

27). Press.

Zig zag the curved edge of the second fac-ing piece at 1 (Fig. 28). With the right sides together, sew this facing to the right front of the slacks 3_{/a" ( 1 em) in from the center front}

edge (Fig. 28-2). Fold the facing to the inside, rolling the seam under slightly so it is hidden.

Press. Baste along the fold at 1 (Fig. 29). Close the zipper.

Place the right front overlapping the left front, (with the waist seam matching at the top) so that the stitching line (Fig. 31-1) on the left section is hidden. Baste together at 2 (Fig. 31). Press.

Keeping the material as flat as possible,

baste the right zipper tape to the right facing only. Stitch once close to the edge of the zi p-per tape and again closer to the zipper teeth

(Fig. 30-1 and 2).

With the right side up, chalk a line an even distance from the finished opening (about

1114''-11/2") (3.2-3.8 em) curving in to a point

just below the end of the zipper (Fig. 31-3).

Baste along this line through the slacks and the facing making sure that the facing lies smoothly and flat and does not shift. Remove the basting which holds the right and left

slacks together down the center front.

RIGHT SIDE Fig. 29

I

I

I

I

\

₂

'\

Undo the zipper and stitch on the chalk line down to the point where the chalk line starts to curve (Fig. 31-4). Stop stitching with the machine needle down. Do up the zipper. Fold the left facing back out of the way of the s

titch-ing. Stitch around the curve to the bottom of the opening.

Since the crotch seam is on the bias and needs a certain amount of give, sew from the bottom of the zipper on the crotch seam for 2" or 3" (5-7.5 em) by hand using a back-stitch. Sew the back part of the crotch seam by machine stretching the fabric slightly while

WRONG SIDE

3

29

Fig. 30

sewing. Sew the seam line twice for rein -forcement.

Reinforce the opening at the bottom of the

zipper by stitching back and forth several times (Fig. 31-5) through all thicknesses.

Open out the seam allowance of the crotch seam and sew the extension of the lining to the edges of the seam allowances for additional

reinforcement as shown in Fig. 30-3.

Fig. 31 I I I I 3-41 I I

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RIGHT 1 SIDE I I

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5

Side zipper

A zipper may be placed in the left side seam using the lap method of application. The zip-per opening should be from 7" to 9" (18-23 em) in length depending on your taste, and on your size and shape. The greater the differ-ence between the waist and the hip meas-urements, the larger the opening required.

First, locate the point on the side seam where the zipper will end. Sew the side seam from the hem up to this point. Place the zipper face down, centered on the side seam line of the left back slacks (right side facing up).

Baste it in place. Stitch at 1 (Fig. 32). Turn the

zipper over so that its right side faces up and roll the edge of the pant fabric almost to the

edge of the zipper teeth as seen in Fig. 33.

Baste in place. From the right side stitch along

the fold using the zipper foot (Fig. 32-2 and

Fig. 33-2).

Fig. 32

Fold the side seam allowance of the front of

the slacks under along the seam line and

press (Fig. 32-3). Baste the front and the back

together (Fig. 33-4), lapping front over back to

hide the stitching line (Fig. 33-2) on the back

section. Baste the zipper to the front section through the seam allowance and slacks. With

the right side up, sew through the front section and the zipper tape close to the zipper teeth (Figs. 32-5 and 33-5). This stitching line

should be parallel to the folded side edge.

Stop the stitching at the end of the zipper. Turn

the work and stitch the zipper tape to the facing only (Fig. 32-6). Remove the basting holding the front and back sections together.

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9 Fig. 33

Cut a strip of the pant fabric for a facing (Fig. 33-1 0) slightly longer than the zipper and no less than 11/4" (3.2 em) wide. If possible, cut

one edge of the strip from the selvage. Zig zag the raw edges of the strip (Fig. 32-7). Then, zig

zag the facing strip to the back side seam

allowance (Fig. 32-8). Reinforce the end of the opening from the right side by sewing back and forth several times through all thicknes

-ses just below the end of the zipper (Figs. 32-9 and 33-9). The bottom facing must be lying flat so that it is caught in this stitching, too.