Thank You & Enjoy! Wayne

These manuals originally sold for $10.00 each. Now, due to

the worldwide economic collapse, they are my Gift to you.

My hope is that you will enjoy these great little airplanes as

much as I have enjoyed designing them for you.

You may build as many planes as you like.

Sell your planes, or give them away.

Tell ALL your airplane loving friends to come to the site and

get as many of the manuals as they like.

If you enjoy these planes, please help to ensure this site stays

on-line and these airplane manuals remain available for all to

enjoy. Any amount you donate is greatly appreciated.

May God bless you and keep you safe.

Thank You & Enjoy!

Wayne

Step By Step Construction Plans.

31 Pages With Over 85 Full Color Photos

showing how to build the

TOP

SECRET

Can be made from most 16oz Beverage Cans.

Welcome to the B. C. Air Originals Squadron.

This booklet contains complete step by step instructions for building the B. C. Air

Originals TWIN BEECH C-45. Before you start building your first plane it is

suggested that you review the entire set of plan directions. Once you have

pre-viewed the construction steps you should start collecting the cans that you want to

use to make your first plane. These plans are designed to be used with any 16 oz.

beverage can. Always use clean, unscratched and undented cans for the best looking

planes.

Since the building of these planes requires the cutting of cans and the use of sharp

tools, CHILDREN SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT THE CONSTRUCTION OF

THESE PLANES WITHOUT ADULT SUPERVISION AND GUIDANCE.

CONSUMER ACCEPTS ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURY

IN-CURRED IN THE BUILDING OF THESE PLANES.

It is not necessary to follow all the building steps in the order presented. Such as, if

you want to make the Engine, the Wheels or the Tail Section first, you can do that

and then set them aside until you need them. However, until you understand the

construction of these planes, it may be easier to follow the steps in the order listed.

Your very first step should be to make a copy of all the templates. All templates are

drawn to scale. Using a sheet of mylar (Clear Plastic) will enable you to re-use

your templates again and again. There is no limit to the number of planes you can

build with these plans.

We, at B. C. Air Originals, will make every effort to assist you in answering any

questions you may have about the construction of these planes. Please feel free to

contact us ANY TIME at command@

bc

air

originals.com.

When you print your manuals be sure that your printer is set on it’s MAX

printing area to ensure that all the templates print out to the correct size.

The standard 12 oz Can, here in the US, measures 2 1/2" in diameter. If the

Cans you’re using to make your plane are smaller or larger, then here’s

what you do... Measure the diameter of your Can and find what

percent-age of 2 1/2" it is.... I.e. If your Can measures only 2 1/4" (in diameter)

then 2 1/4" is = to 90% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all the templates

at 90% instead of at 100%. If your Can measures 3" (in diameter) then 3"

is = to 120% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all of the templates at 120%.

etc.

Some of these models were originally designed in 1984. Since then the

building techniques of these planes has changed over time. I.e. many of the

planes no longer require the use of the wooden former “F-1 & F-2”. We

simply glue the “B-2’s” onto the BACK (BOTTOM) of the Can “B-1” or

use corrugated cardboard in place of the wood. (See

http://

www.bcair.com/BT/nwf1.htm

and

http://www.bcair.com/BT/nf1.htm

)

Once you’ve reviewed your manual and you’re ready to start your first

plane, go here >

http://www.bcair.com/BT/

< and look over the Builder’s

Tips. These are building tips sent in from builders all over the world. They

will help you to make these planes easier and faster. Bookmark this page as

it is NOT accessible from the main web site.

You can obtain the plastic props used on these planes from your

local Hobby Shop or here’s where I get my props on-line >

http://

www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=QBC&V=MAS

<.

Here’s where I get my Wooden Propellers on-line >

http://

www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/

wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch

<

Any 5-7" prop, with any pitch, will work on these planes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?

The following is a list of tools and materials I use to build these planes.

You may find that you do not need all of the tools that I use.

Use whatever works best for you.

Small hammer of some kind.

Pliers.

Flat head screw driver.

Hand stapler.

Snap (carpet) stapler.

Push Pin.

Hot glue gun.

Awl (old screw driver sharpened to a point).

Wire cutter.

X-acto knife (hobby knife) (box opener).

Scissors & Can Opener.

Ruler (straight edge).

Felt tip pen (any color).

Needle nose pliers.

Open end wrench (to fitwhatever size nuts you’ll use).

Hand drill (1/4” works fine).

Hole saw (2 different sizes - 2 3/4” & 1 5/8”).

Materials

-Aluminum Cans (beer, pop, soda, juice, etc) any 12 oz. size will work.

Bottle caps.

Corrugated Cardboard.

Tape (any kind) & Glue (2-Part Epoxy works best).

Mylar (Clear plastic).

Copper Coated Welding Rod, Music Wire or any other straight wire .

(2 sizes - 1/16” & 3/32”)

Hazel Nuts (Acorn Nuts, Cap Nuts, Toothpaste Caps).

Screws, Nuts and Bolts.

Cutting Cans

The building of these planes requires that the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cans be

cut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,

most builders use a Dremal

_{Tool in a fashion similar to that shown below.}

What I’ve done here is taken a piece of board wood (aprox 12” x 15” x 3/4”) and to it I’ve attached (screw or glue) Two Blocks of wood (2” x 2” x 5”) and Two Rails of wood (1” x 1” x 10”)

Using a Hose Clamp, I’ve secured

my

Dremal

_{Tool to the board. The two}

guide rails are used to cradle the can.

A cutting wheel is used to cut the

Bottom and the Top off the Cans.

Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Tops and Bottoms of

the cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.

ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE HAND & EYE GEAR WHEN CUTTING CANS!

Another Way Of Cutting Cans

Once you’ve selected which Cans your plane will be made out of, take one Can and hold it firmly at it’s bottom. Using your wire snips, cut through the ring at the top of the Can.

Now grab the ring with your wire snips and PULL the top off the Can. The top will normally tare off right where the Can begins to taper inward to the ring.

Continue PULLING until the top of the Can comes off. Then cut down the side of the Can with your scissors. Next use a smaller scissor to cut the bottom off the Can.

Use a straight edge, or a paper cutter to trim the edges smooth.

Trim Can to 3 5/8” x 8 1/4”

Using two hole saws (the larger one is 2 3/4” and the smaller one is 1 5/8”) cut two

circles from any kind of wood that is 3/4” thick. Soft Pine like that used to make

wooden pallets works best. These two wooden circles will now become F-1 & F-2.

F-1

F-2

_F-1

_F-2

Using a wood rasp (or similar tool) taper both F-1 & F-2 as shown above. The

“Perfect” F-1 and F-2 would have the dimensions shown at right. But they don’t

have to be perfect as long as F-1 DOES NOT EXCEED 2 1/2” in diameter. Work

F-1 down to a size (approx. a little less than 2 1/2” in diameter) that will allow it

(once wrapped with can B-2C Step # 6 & # 7) to fit inside Can B-1 (

.

NOTE: You can also use a jigsaw or any other method at your disposal

to obtain F-1 & F-2 as long as you end up with the same dimensions.

Cutting Cans

The building of these planes requires that both the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cans

be cut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,

most builders use a Dremal

_{Tool in a fashion similar to that shown above. The}

Dremal

_{is secured to a board with the use of a hose clamp. Two guide rails are used to}

cradle the can. A cutting wheel is used to cut the Bottom of the can off first, and then the

Top is cut off. Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Tops

www.bcair.com

Once you’ve decided which cans you’re going to use to make your plane, remove all the Pull Tabs. Select which can will be your main body can and cut the bottom off.

This can will be B-1

Cut the Tops and Bottoms off 19 additional Cans and open them up as shown here.

Take one of the cans, from Step # 5, and cut it as shown. This will be B-2C.

1 3/4”

Take F-1 & F-2 and staple them to B-2C as shown. F-1 F-2 F-2

B-2C

Roll B-2C around F-1 & F-2 and secure with 2 additional staples. This now becomes B-2.

STAPLE

STAPLE

STAPLE STAPLE

Trim off excess can overlapping F-1.

STEP # 6

STEP #

Center of Can Bottom.

A

A

B

B

Towards the Front of the Plane.

TEMPLATE # 1

Cut out Template # 1 (or trace it onto a 10mm sheet of mylar and then cut it out)

and tape it into a tube matching X with X and Y with Y.

Insert B-2 into B-1 and secure with 3 staples.

B-1

B-2

Staple (Third Staple is on the other side ).

Slide Template # 1 over B-1 & B-2 and, with your Push Pins, make holes “A” & “B”.

B-1

B-2

Template # 1 Flush with the Front of Can B-1.

Holes “A” Holes “B”

B-1

Remove Template # 1 from B-1 & B-2 and enlarge Holes “A” & “B” to 3/32”. Then make a 3/32” Hole “C” in the center of the little button that held the Pull Tab in the Front of B-1.

STEP # 8

STEP # 9

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Use two pieces of 3/32” Welding Rod 21 1/2” long as your Wing Spars. Bend the Forward Wing Spar (FWS) as shown.

6 3/4” _{8” 6 3/4”}

Take TWO pieces of corrugated cardboard 4” x 10” (with the corrugation running the long way) and cut them as shown. These will be the Wing Cardboard (WC).

WC

Take TWO MORE pieces of corrugated cardboard 2” x 9 1/4” (with the corrugation running the long way) and cut them as shown. These will be the Wing Cardboard Airfoils (WCA).

WCA

to desired shape.

STEP # 11

STEP # 12

FWS

AWS

Insert FWS through Holes “A”, and AWS through Holes “B” in B-1. Tape WC to FWS & AWS as shown.

Glue (or tape) WCA to the Top of WC as shown.

WC

WCA

Repeat on Both Wings.

TEMPLATE # 2

(Outer Wing Panels TOP)

TEMPLATE # 3

(Outer Wing Panels BOTTOM)

Flip Both Templates to get the corresponding patterns for Both Wings.

Cut out Templates # 2 & 3, or trace them onto a piece of mylar and then cut them out.

Top Side View of Wing

Under Side View of Wing

Take one of the Cans that you opened up in Step # 5 and trim Two Panels 3 1/4” x 5”. Wrap one panel around the Top of the Wing next to B-1. Repeat on the other Wing. Take Template # 2 and cut it out of another Can. Wrap that trimmed Can around the Outer edge of the Wing. Repeat on the other Wing.

1 Panel Template #2 Can

B-1

B-1

Take another Can that you opened up in Step # 5 and trim Two Panels 3 1/4” x 4”. Insert one panel under the lip of the Can you wrapped around the Top of the Wing next to B-1. Repeat on the other Wing.

Take Template # 3 and cut it out of another Can. Insert that trimmed Can under the lip of the Can you wrapped around the Outer edge of the Wing. Repeat on the other Wing.

1 Panel Template #3 Can

STEP # 16

Once you have all your Wing Cans in place secure with 6 staples in each Wing. TOP VIEW BOTTOM VIEW Staples _Staples Staples Staples Staples Staples Staples Staples

Staple Wing Tips and Trim to desired shape.

STEP # 18

TEMPLATE # 4

Horizontal

Stabilizer

TOP & BOTTOM

Cut TWO Horizontal Stabilizers (HS) and TWO Vertical Stabilizers (VS) from cans that you opened up in Step # 5.

TEMPLATE # 5

Vertical Stabilizer

Cut out Templates # 4 & # 5, or trace them onto a piece of mylar and then cut them out.

VSS

HSS

HS

VS

Cut TWO pieces of cardboard to serve as Vertical Stabilizer Stiffeners (VSS) and ONE piece of cardboard to serve as the Horizon-tal Stabilizer Stiffener (HSS).

STEP # 20

Take TWO “Roofing Nails” (RN) 3/4” long (or other nails with large flat heads) and insert them through HSS and the Bottom

HS as shown. Take ONE RN nail and insert it through VSS

and One of the VS’s as shown.

RN

HSS

HSS

VSS

VS

HS

HS

VS

Staple the Top HS to the Bottom HS. Fold over the VS and secure with staples.

Bottom View of HS

Inside View of VS Outside View of VS

STEP # 22

TEMPLATE # 6

Tail Cone

Cut out Template # 6, or trace it onto a piece of mylar and then cut it out. Trace Template # 6 (TC) onto a can that you opened up in Step # ?, cut it out and shape it as shown (matching A with A and B with B)

A A B B STAPLE STAPLE

Slide TC over F-2 & the tail end of B-2 and secure with TWO staples (One on Top and One on the Bot-tom).

B-2

TC

(One Staple on the Bottom)

STEP # 24

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Cut Off

TC

HSA

HSA

HSA

HS

TC

HSA

Take THREE pieces of corrugated cardboard 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” and cut them as shown. Then glue the three pieces together. This will

become the Horizontal Stabilizer Anchor (HSA).

Insert and glue HSA into TC as shown. (Top View)

(Side View)

1”

(Bottom View)

Place glue (or epoxy) on the Top of the HSA and on both of the RN’s in the HS. Insert the Two RN’s into the Top of HSA and push the HS down onto it.

TC HS HSA

STEP # 26

STEP # 27

Place glue on the RN in VS and on the end of HSS in HS. Insert the RN into HSS and push the

VS against HS.

Repeat with the other VS on the other side of the HS.

VS

RN

HS

TC

HS

VS

VS

VS

HS

VS

TC

B-2

HS

VS

TC

Fill the hole in the back of TC with hot glue.

STEP # 29

Take Can B-3, from Step # ? (Page 5), and glue it to the front of B-1.

A

_B

B

A

TOP HALF OF

TEMPLATE # 7

BOTTOM HALF

OF

TEMPLATE # 7

match up “A” with “A” and “B” with “B”. OR

Creat this Template on a piece of paper that is at least 11” long. This Template is 5” wide at the Top, and 1” wide at the Bottom. Place the “TABS” in the positions shown.

T

ABS

T

ABS

T

_ABS

T

_ABS

Take 3 cans from Step # 5, trim and tape them together as shown here.

Can

Cellophane Tape Double-Sided Tape

Take Template # 7 and cut it’s pattern from the cans you taped together in Step # 33.

This will be the Planes Backbone (PB).

STEP # 33

TEMPLATE # 8

WINDSHIELD

(W)

Cut out Template # 8 (W), or trace it onto a piece of mylar and then cut it out and cut it’s pattern out of one of the cans you opened up in Step # ?.

Place PB on the plane and mark where to make the slits for the TABS. After you’ve made the slits apply glue to the “inside” of PB and place it on the plane. Use masking tape to hold it in place until the glue has dried.

PB

B-1

B-2

_TC

B-3

Place W on the plane and mark where to make the slits for the TABS.

After you’ve made the slits place glue in the “inside” of W and hold in place with masking tape until the glue has dried.

Glue the side windows to the side of

PB.

Remove the masking tape and add window framing using black duct tape.

Take a piece of 3/32” rod 9” long and insert it into the TOP of the wing, UNDER the Cans that cover the Top of the wing, at the point where the Inner Can overlaps the Outer Can (approx 3 1/4” from B-1). This will become the Engine’s Propeller Shaft (EPS). Repeat this Step on the other wing. 3 1/4” 3 1/4” 3 1/4” 123456789012345678901234567890121 123456789012345678901234567890121 123456789012345678901234567890121 123456789012345678901234567890121 123456789012345678901234567890121 123456789012345678901234567890121 123456789012345678901234567890121 1234567890 1234567890 1234567890 FWS AWS _WC WCA EPS

SIDE VIEW OF WING

EPS EPS

EPS

Take four bottle caps and put a 3/32” hole in the center of each cap. These are the Engine Propeller Shaft

Holes (EPSH) Then glue two caps together.

Take 6 Pull Tabs and stack and glue them together. Make 7 stacks of 6 Tabs. (Use a piece of masking tape to hold them in place until the glue dries). These are the Engine

Cylinders (ES)

Next place the 7 stacks of Pull Tabs (ES’s) around the 4 bottle caps you’ve wrapped and glue them in place. (Use a rubber band to hold them in place until the glue has dried). This is the Radial Engine.

Make Two of them.

FRONT VIEW

SIDE VIEW Next glue the four caps

to-gether as shown and wrap them 6-7 times with duct tape.

EPSH

Take another 4 bottle caps and place a 3/32” hole (EPSH) in the center of each. Glue 2 caps together. These will be Engine Spacers (ES). Now drill TWO additional 3/32” holes TOP & BOTTOM (as shown) just OFF CENTER from the EPSH.

These will be your Landing Gear Anchor Holes (LGAH). BE SURE THEY ARE IN ALIGNMENT WITH EACH OTHER AND AT A 90 DEGREE ANGLE TO THE EPSH.

EPSH EPSH EPSH EPSH EPSH EPSH LGAH LGAH _LGAH LGAH LGAH LGAH LGAH LGAH LGAH

Slide the ES onto the EPS and glue it to the leading edge of the wing. Repeat on the other side of the plane. BE SURE THE LGAH ARE STRAIGHT UP & DOWN

Make Two more ES from 4 more bottle caps. Slide one each onto the EPS and glue in place.

When the ES are secure to the EPS remove the Landing Gear Alignment

Rod (LGAR). Slide the Engine onto

the EPS and glue it in place.

Repeat on the other side of the plane.

TEMPLATE # 9

UPPER ENGINE COWLING (UEC)

(RIGHT SIDE)

TEMPLATE # 10

LOWER ENGINE COWLING (LEC)

(RIGHT SIDE)

Cut out Templates # 9 & # 10, or trace them onto a piece of mylar and then cut them out, then cut their patterns out of 2 Cans. Turn BOTH Templates over to get the Up-per and Lower Engine Cowlings for the “Left” engine.

Glue the Lower Engine Cowling (LEC) to the Bottom of the engine and to the bottom of the wing (Use masking tape to hold it in place until the glue is dry).

GLUE GLUE

GLUE INSIDE HERE

(TOP VIEW) (BOTTOM VIEW)

Take four bottle caps and place a 3/32” hole in the center of each. Glue two caps together to make one wheel.

Take Four pieces of 3/32” rod, (Two approx 4 1/2” long and the other Two approx 2 1/2” long), and bend them as shown here. These will make up your Main Landing Gear (MLG).

Insert one long and one short rod into the wheel holes and glue the rods together. Use tape to hold the rods in place until the glue is dry.

GLUE HERE

(OPTIONAL)

Wrap the MLG with Duct Tape.

STEP # 44

STEP # 45

STEP # 46

Take a piece of 3/32” rod and

sharpen it to a point. Insert that rod into and through the LGAH (on the

ES) and THROUGH the LEC.

LEC

LEC

LGAH

LGAH

ES

Insert the Main Landing Gear (MLG), through the LEC into the LGAH in the ES. Mark and REMOVE the excess rod (on the MLG) then glue the MLG in place on the inside of the

LEC and the ES.

Cut off excess rod.

ES

(Remove Tape)

MLG

Glue the UEC in position and hold in place with masking tape and a rubber band until the glue has dried.

UEC

GLUE ON INSIDE OF UEC.

STEP # 48

STEP # 49

Cut Two strips of Can 1 1/4” x 6”. These will be your Forward Engine Cowlings. (FEC)

Strip the rubber insulation from a piece of 10 gage electrical wire 6” long and make a slit in it, it’s entire length.

Wrap the two strips of Can around the Engine Cylinders and mark where the Can overlaps itself. Remove the Can strip from the engine and glue the strip of Can into a circle. Then place and glue the rubber insulation onto the Can’s edge.

Place and glue the FEC onto the engines.

FEC

STEP # 51

STEP # 52

STEP # 53

Take a piece of 3/32” rod 2 1/2” long and shape it as shown. This will be the Tail Wheel (TW).

Drill a 3/32” hole in the bottom of

TC (2” from the back end) and

insert and glue TW.

TW

TC

Cut Four strips of Can 1 1/4” x 2” and glue Two on each LEC as Gear Doors (GD).

LEC

LEC

GD

Insert a small piece of tubing as the Engine Exhust Pipe (EEP).

Install prop (size 5.5 or 4.5) cut off excess EPS and glue an Acron Nut on the end.

Glue a plastic or wooden tear drop on as the Radio Antenna (RA).

RA

Your B. C. Air Originals C-45 Twin Beech is now complete.

STEP # 59

STEP # 60