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Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

A

accommodation 53, 542-3,

see also individual locations

language 557 Acropolis (Athens) 67-72,

432, 70, 12

activities 47-51, 52-3, see

also individual activities, individual locations Adamas 233 Aegiali 205-6 Aegina 128-32, 128 Aegina Town 129-31 Agathonisi 370-1 Agia Galini 272-3, 433 Agia Marina 358-9 Agia Pelagia 503 Agia Triada 263 Agios Efstratios 417 Agios Georgios 297, 370-1 Agios Kirykos 375-7 Agios Nikolaos 287-90, 288 Agios Pavlos 272-98 air travel 17, 37, 550-2 Akrotiri Peninsula 279 Alexander the Great 511 Alinda 360-1 Alonnisos 452-7, 453 alphabet 558 ambulance 17 Amorgos 201-6, 202 amusement parks 90 Anafi 223-5 Analipsi 350 Ancient Agora 76, 79, 79 Ancient Akrotiri 222 Ancient Delos 230-2, 432, 231 Ancient Eleusis 125 Ancient Ialysos 315 Ancient Kamiros 316 Ancient Lato 291 Ancient Thira 222 Andros 156-9, 157 Angistri 132-3, 128 animals 538-40, see also

individual species Ano Meria 229 Ano Petali 238-9 Ano Syros 163 Anogia 269-70 Antia 443 Antikythira 504, 500 Antiparos 184-5, 178-9 Antipaxi 479-80, 478 Aphrodite 501, 503 Apiranthos 195-6 Apollo Coast 87-8 Apollonas 196 Apollonia 238 aquariums Cretaquarium 262-3 Old Town Aquarium 307 archaeological museums Agios Nikolaos 287 Andros 158 Athens (National Archaeological Museum) 84, 92, 92 Chios Town 395 Fira 214 Hania 273-6 Ierapetra 295 Iraklio 253-4 Karpathos 320 Kissamos 279 Kos Town 341 Lefkada Town 482 Mykonos 171 Myrina 414 Mytilini Town 404 Naxos 188 Parikia 180 Piraeus 120 Plaka 233-4 Pothia 352 Pythagorio 387-8 Rethymno 267 Rhodes Town 305 Sitia 293 Skala 348 Thasos 424 Vathy 385 archaeological sites 51,

432-3, see also Roman sites, temples, tombs Acropolis 67-72, 70 Acropolis of Agios Andreas 239 Acropolis of Lindos 314 Agia Triada 263 Alyki 427 Ancient Agora 76, 79, 79 Ancient Akrotiri 222 Ancient Delos 230-2 Ancient Eleusis 125 Ancient Ialysos 315 Ancient Kamiros 316 Ancient Lato 291 Ancient Thira 222 Ancient Zakros 294-5 Asklipieion 345-6 Eretria 440 Evpalinos Tunnel 387 Falasarna 280 Filakopi 236 Gournia 291-2 Hephaistia 416 House of Homer 494 Ireon 389 Kea Lion 246 Keramikos 76-7 Keros 199 Kos Town 341-2 Malia 263 Mikro Horio 333 Palace of Knossos 259-62, 259 Palamari 462 Paleohora 131 Paleokastro 337 Panathenaic Stadium 78 Phaestos 263 Poliohni 416 Ramnous 125 Sanctuary of the Great

Gods 420-1 Skarkos 207-8 Thasos (Limenas) 424 Archaic Age 509-10 architecture 84, 524-7 area codes 17 Areopagus Hill 75-6 Argostoli 487-9, 488 Arkasa 322 Arki 369-70 Armeos 355 art 20, 89, 528-9 art galleries, see galleries Artemonas 238-9 arts 89, 459, 528-32, see

also individual arts

festivals 91, 424 Asklipieion 345-6 Assos 491 Astypalea 347-51, 348 Athena 63 Athens 60-125, 64-5, 73, 80-1, 86-7, 98-9, 106, 12, 42, 433, 436 accommodation 60, 91-101 activities 88 children, travel with 90 climate 60 courses 88

drinking & nightlife 107-12 emergency services 115 entertainment 112-13 festivals 91 food 60, 101-7 gay & lesbian travellers 111 highlights 61, 61 history 62-6 internet resources 114, 116 itineraries 62, 90, 94-5, 95

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medical services 116 safety 115 shopping 114-15 sights 66-88 tourist information 116 tours 88-91 travel seasons 60 travel to/from 116-18 travel within 118-19 Athens grand promenade 77 ATMs 546 Atsitsa 462 Attica 123-5, 124-5 August Moon Festival

23, 435

B

Balkan Wars 514 bargaining 19 basketball 113 bathrooms 548 Batsi 156-7 Battle of Marathon 123-5 battles, see wars & battles beaches 148-9 beer 215

bicycle travel, see cycling birdwatching 539 Lesvos (Mytilini) 402 Panagia Islet 425 Skyros 459, 462 Tilos 334 Blue Caves 498, 21 boars 539 boat travel 30-7, 38-41, 552, 552-4, see also boat trips, cruising, island hopping, sailing & yachting fares 36 ferry routes 34-5 seasickness 37 tickets 32 travel seasons 31 boat trips, see also cruising, island hopping, sailing & yachting Alonnisos 454 Corfu 469-70 Evia 442 Folegandros 228 Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 296 Gramvousa Peninsula 280 Ithaki 493 Karpathos 323 Kasos 325 Kastellorizo (Megisti) 327 Koufonisia 200 Limnos 415 Lipsi 367 Milos 236 Paros 184 Plakias 271 Rethymno 267 Santorini (Thira) 214 Saronic Gulf Islands 129 Skiathos 445 Skopelos 450 Skyros 459 Turkey 388 Zakynthos 498 Bonelli’s eagle 539 Book of Revelations 365 books 506, see also

literature Cyclades 211, 522 history 514, 517 politics 518 border crossings 551 Bouboulina, Laskarina 513 bouzouki 531 bouzoukia 112 Brooke, Rupert 462 budgeting 17, 40-1, 44 bus travel 551, 554 business hours 547 Byzantine Empire 511-12 architecture 84, 525-6 music 532 Byzantine museums

Byzantine & Christian Museum (Athens) 85 Byzantine &

Post-Byzantine Collection (Hania) 276 Chios Town 395 Ecclesiastical (Byzantine) Museum 385 Museum of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Art on Kythira 503 Naoussa 182 Zakynthos Town 496-7

C

camping 542 canyoning 419, 490 Cape Prasonisi 317, 49 Cape Sounion 123 car travel 36, 554-6 hazards 555-6 hire 555 road conditions 555 road rules 556 Carnival 22, 435 Caryatids 68-9, 72, 75, 433

castles, see also fortresses Agios Georgios Kastro

489 Bazeos Castle 195 Byzantine-Genoese Castle 407 Castle of Antiparos 184-5 Castle of Faraklos 313 Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis 387 Castle of Monolithos 316 Castle of Myrina 414 Castle of the Knights 341 Hora (Kythira) 501 Kastro (Astypalea) 348 Kritinia Castle 316 Pandeli Castle 358 Venetian Castle 285 cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals caves

Bekiris Cave 144 Blue Cave (Parasta) 327 Blue Caves (Zakynthos)

498

Cave of Antiparos 185 Cave of Philoctetes 416 Cave of Sykia Olymbi

399

Cave of the Apocalypse 365

Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis 198 Cave of Zeus 193 Dikteon Cave 297-8 Harkadio Cave 332 Ideon Cave 270 Kefallonia 490 Koutouki Cave 125 Matala 265 cell phones 548 cemeteries Ancient Cemetery (Parikia) 180 Athens’ First Cemetery

87

East Moudros Allied Military Cemetery 416 Keramikos 76-7 Krithoni war cemetery

360 Mausoleum of Inousses 399 Mycenaean cemetery 201 Portianos Military Cemetery 416

WWI Serbian cemetery 469

ceramics 459, 460 changing of the guard

ceremony 82 children, travel with 52-4

Athens 90 food 536 Chios 392-9, 393 Chios Town 394-6, 394 churches & cathedrals 433

Agios Nikolaos Rangavas 83 Church of Agii Theodori 83 Church of Agios Eleftherios 77 Church of Agios Ioannis 314 Church of Agios Nikolaos 276 Church of Agios Spyridon 469 Church of Agios Therapon 404-5 Church of Agios Titos

255-6 Church of Dionysios 497 Church of Kapnikarea 77 Church of Panagia Evangelistria 160 Church of Panagia Kera 291 Church of Sotira Lykodimou 83 Churches of the Taxiarhes 398 Panagia Drosiani 195 Panagia Ekatondapy-liani 179 Panagia Glykofilousa 409 Panagia Paraportiani 171 cinema 113, 529 civil war 515 Classical Age 510 classical architecture 525 coffee 536 Colossus of Rhodes 304 conservation 540 consulates 544 convents, see monasteries

& convents cooking courses 43-4 Corfu 148, 465-77, 466, 14, 33 Corfu Town 468-73, 470-1, 33 costs 17, 36, 40-1, 547

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courses, see also individual

locations cooking 43-4, 459 language 88, 167, 382, 405 painting 454 pottery 459 reiki 458 yoga 454 credit cards 546-7 Cretaquarium 262-3 Crete 148, 248-98, 250-1 accommodation 248 climate 248 food 248 highlights 250-1 history 249 travel seasons 248 travel to/from 249-52, 253 travel within 252 cruising 38-41 Crusades, the 511-12 culture 19, 429-36, 506-7, 520-3 currency 16-17 customs regulations 543-4 Cyclades 153-247, 154 accommodation 153 books 211 climate 153 food 153 highlights 154 history 155 island hopping 155 travel seasons 153 Cycladic civilisation 508 cycling 51, 552 Corfu 474 Evia 442 Kefallonia 490 Naxos 188 Skopelos 450 Thasos 425-6 Cyprus issue 516

D

dance 532 dangers, see safe travel Delos 230-2, 432

Diafani 323

disabilities, travellers with 548-9

discount cards 544

diving & snorkelling 48, 51 Alonnisos 454 Amorgos 205 Antiparos 185 Athens 88 Chios 398 Corfu 474 Hora Sfakion 281 Ios 208 Kalymnos 353, 356 Lefkada 483 Milos 236 Mykonos 176 Paros 184 Plakias 271 Rhodes Town 308 Samos 388 Samothraki 419 Skiathos 447 Thasos 426 Dodecanese 299-371, 300 accommodation 299 climate 299 food 299 highlights 300 travel seasons 299 dolphins 267, 450, 540 domatia 543 Donousa 200-1 Dorian people 509 drinks 45, 536 beer 215 coffee 536 kitron 194, 195 ouzo 45 wine 23, 367, 443, 536 driving, see car travel Durrell, Gerald 475 Durrell, Lawrence 475

E

Easter celebrations 22, 435, 523, 10, 600 economy 506-7, 517-19, 521 Eftalou Beach 409 El Greco 528 Elafonisi 286 electricity 544 Elefsina 125 Eleonora’s falcon 539 Elounda 290-1 embassies 544 Embonas 316 Emborios (Halki) 318-19 Emborios (Kalymnos) 356 Emborios (Nisyros) 338-9 emergencies 17 language 559-60 endangered species 461 environmental issues 540 Epta Piges 313 Erechtheion 72 Eretria 440 Ermoupoli 165-8, 166 etiquette 19 churches 160 food 46 Evans, Arthur 259 Evdilos 378-9 events, see festivals &

events Evia 439-44, 438 climate 437 highlights 438 travel seasons 437 Evpalinos Tunnel 387 exchange rates 16-17

F

Falasarna 280 ferry companies 40 ferry travel, see boat travel festivals & events 22-3, 435 Aegina Fistiki Fest 130 Armata 142 arts 89, 424 August Moon Festival 23 Carnival 22 Dionysos Theatre

Festival 376 Easter 22-3, 23, 10

Epiphany 22 Feast of Agios Vasilios

(St Basil) 22 Feast of St John the

Baptist 23 Festival of Agios

Georgios (St George) 23 film 91

food 43, 130, 536 Frikaria Music Festival

376

Half-Marathon (Skyros) 458

Hellenic Festival 23, 91 Icarus Festival for

Dialogue Between Cultures 376 Ikaria 374 Ikaria International Chess Tournament 376 Independence Day 22 International Eressos Women’s Festival 410 International Mountain Biking Race 425-6 Kalymnos Skandalopetra Diving Festival 353 May Day 23 Miaoulia Festival 137 music 91, 376 Navy Week 23 North Face Kalymnos

Climbing Festival 353 Philippi Thasos Festival

424

rembetika music festival 457

Rockwave Festival 23 Skyros carnival 460 theatre 376 Wine & Cultural Festival

(Evia) 443 Wine Festival (Lipsi) 367 feta 533

Filiki Eteria (Friendly Society) 512 film 506, 529 festivals 91 Filopappou Hill 75 Finiki 322 Fira 214-19, 216 fires 538 fish spas 218 Fiskardo 491-2 flora 537-8 Folegandros 226-30, 227 folk music 530 Fonias River 422 food 20, 42-6, 430, 533-6, 11, 430-1 bread 382 children 53 cooking courses 43-4, 459 eateries 45 etiquette 46 festivals 43, 130 language 558-9 markets 43 olives 408 seasons 43 street food 102 tyropita 456 forests 538 fortresses, see also

castles Fortezza (Rethymno)

266

Fortress of Agia Mavra 482

Fortress of Drakanos 378

Frangokastello 281-98 Frankish Kastro (Parikia)

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Frankish Kastro (Plaka) 234

Kales Fortress 295 Koules Venetian Fortress

255

Mytilini Town 403-4 Neo Frourio 469 Palaio Frourio 468 Venetian Fort (Sitia)

293 Fourni Islands 382-3, 376-7 Frangokastello 281 Fry 325

G

Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 296 Gaïos 478 galleries Art Space 222 Athens 89 Cultural Foundation of Tinos 160 Fish & Olive 194 National Museum of

Contemporary Art 85 New Art Gallery 305 Patmos Gallery 364 Theocharakis Foundation

for the Fine Arts & Music 89 gardens, see parks &

gardens Gavdos Island 286-7 Gavrio 156 gay travellers 544-5 Athens 111 Mykonos 174 Gennadi 317 geography 537-8 geology 537 Geometric Age 509 Gialos 330-1 Glossa 451 Glyfada 87 golden jackal 538-9 golf 474 gorges

Agia Irini Gorge 284 Dimosari Gorge 443 Imbros Gorge 284 Rouvas Gorge 264 Samaria Gorge 282-3, 11, 49, 151 Zakros Gorge 295 Gortyna 264 Gournia 291-2 Gramvousa Peninsula 280 grand promenade (Athens) 77

Great Idea, the 513-14 Greek language 557-63

H

Hadrian’s Arch 78 Hadrian’s Library 77 Halki 194, 317-19 Halkida 439-40 Hania 273-9, 274-5, 14 health 545-6 Hellenic Festival 23, 91 Hellenistic architecture 525 highlights 8-15, 31, 6 hiking 20, 48, 50-1 Alonnisos 454 Amorgos 205 Andros 159 Corfu 474 Evia 440, 442, 443-4 Fourni Islands 382 Ghria Vathra Canyon

(Samothraki) 421 Hydra 140-2 Ikaria 378 Imbros Gorge 284 Ithaki 493 Kalymnos 353 Kefallonia 490 Milos 234 Mylopotamos 502 Plakias 271 Psara 401 Rethymno 267 Rouvas Gorge 264 Samaria Gorge 282-3 Samos 390 Samothraki 418 Sifnos 239 Skiathos 448 Skopelos 452 Skyros 459, 462 Symi 330 Thasos 427 Tilos 333-4 Zakros Gorge 295 Hill of the Pnyx 76 Hippocrates 339 Hippocrates Plane Tree

341 history 508-19

Alexander the Great 511 Archaic Age 509-10 Athens 62-6 Balkan Wars 514 Byzantine Empire 63, 511-12 civil war 515 Classical Age 510 Crete 249 Crusades 511-12 Cycladic civilisation 508 Cyprus 516 Geometric Age 509 Great Idea 513-14 independence 512-13 Minoan civilisation 221, 249, 508-9 Ottoman Rule 63, 512 Roman era 63, 510-11 Sparta 63 WWI 514-15 WWII 515 hitchhiking 556 holidays 547 Homer 211, 396, 397, 493-4 Hora (Amorgos) 204 Hora (Andros) 157-8 Hora (Astypalea) 348-50 Hora (Folegandros) 228-9 Hora (Ios) 207-10 Hora (Kythira) 501 Hora (Kythnos) 244 Hora (Mykonos) 171-6, 172, 21 Hora (Naxos) 188-93, 190 Hora (Patmos) 364-5 Hora (Samothraki) 419-20 Hora (Serifos) 242 Hora Sfakion 281-2 Hora (Tinos) 160-2 horse riding Corfu 474 Kalymnos 355 Naoussa 183 Naxos 188-9 Thasos 426 horses (Skyrian) 461 hostels & hotels 543 hot springs Agios Kirykos 375-6 Eftalou 409 Lefkada 377 Loutra (Therma) 421 Milos 235 Polyhnitos 412 Santorini (Thira) 214 Therma 378 House of Cleopatra 231, 36 hunting 539 Hydra 135-41, 147, 135, 12, 146 Hydra Town 136-40, 138

I

Ierapetra 295-6 Ikaria 149, 374-83, 376-7 Imbros Gorge 284 immigration 521 independence 512-13 Inousses 399-400 insurance 545, 546 internet access 546 internet resources 17, 48, 114, 116 Ionian Islands 463-504, 464 accommodation 463 climate 463 food 463 highlights 464 travel seasons 463 Ios 206-11, 207 Ioulida 246 Iraklia 197-8 Iraklio 252-9, 254 Iraklio market 256 Ireon 389-90 island hopping 30-7 Ithaki 492-5, 486 itineraries 24-9, 24, 26,

29, see also walking tours Athens 62 cruising 39-40

J

jellyfish 545

K

Kalamitsa 461-2 Kalymnos 351-6, 352, 8 Kamares 237-8 Kamari 346-7 Kamariotissa 418-19 Kanaris, Konstantinos 400, 401 Kapsali 501-2 Karavostamo 381-2 Karavostasis 227-8 Karpathos 319-24, 319 Karystos 442-3 Kasos 324-6, 324 Kassiopi 474 Kastellorizo (Megisti) 326-8 Kastellorizo Village 326-8 Kastro (Sifnos) 239 Katapola 201-4 Kathisma beach 483, 148 Kato Zakros 294-5 Katouni Bridge 503

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kayaking Alonnisos 454 Chios 398 Evia 442 Kefallonia 490 Lefkada 483 Milos 236 Paros 184 Kazantzakis, Nikos 257, 529 Kea (Tzia) 245-7, 245 Kefallonia 485-92, 486 Kefalos Bay 346-7 Keramikos 76-7 Keros 199 Kimolos 236, 234 Kissamos 279-80 kitesurfing 48, 48-50, 184 kitron 194, 195 Klima 235 Knights’ Quarter (Rhodes Town) 305-7 Knossos 259-62, 524, 259 Korissia 245-6 Kos 148, 339-47, 340 Kos Town 341-5, 342-3 Koufonisia 199-200 Krithoni 360-1 Kritsa 291 Kymi 440-1 Kypris, Yorgos 220 Kythira 499-504, 500 Kythnos 243-5, 243

L

laïka 530 Lakka 479 Lakki 359 language 557-63 courses 88, 167, 382, 405 whistling language 443 Lasinthos Eco-Park 297 Lasithi Plateau 297-8 Lavrio 123 Laws of Gortyna 264 Lefkada 149, 480-4, 481 Lefkada Town 482 Lefkes 184 Lefkos 322 legal matters 546 Leros 356-61, 357 lesbian travellers 544-5 Athens 111 Mykonos 174 Skala Eresou 410 Lesvos (Mytilini) 147, 402-13, 402, 14, 147 Limni 442 Limni Vouliagmenis 88 Limnos 413-17, 413 Linaria 461 Lindos 313-15 Lipsi 366-9, 367 Lipsi Village 367-9 literature 257, 475, 529-30 Little Cyclades 196-200, 196 Livadi 241-2, 350 Livadia 333-5 live music 112-13, 532 loggerhead turtles 498 Loggos 479 Loutra Edipsou 441-2 Loutra (Therma) 421-2 Loutraki 451 Loutro 283 Lykavittos Hill 85-7

M

Magazia 460-1, 479 Malia 263 Mandraki 336-8 maps 546 Marathi 369-70 Marathon 123-5 marine parks, see national

parks & reserves markets Agora (Hania) 276 Central Market (Athens) 114, 42 food 43 Iraklio 256

Monastiraki Flea Market (Athens) 114 Potamos 502 Masouri 355 Mastihari 346 Mastihohoria 397 Matala 264-6, 152 mayirefta 533-4 Megalo Horio 335 Meganisi 484-5 Menetes 321-2 Merihas 243-4 Mesta 397-8 mezedhes 534 Milos 232-6, 234 Minoan civilisation 221, 249, 508-9, 524 Minotaur 524 Mitsotakis, Konstandinos 517 mobile phones 548 Mohlos 292 Molos 460-1 Molyvos (Mithymna) 407-9, 28

monasteries & convents Convent of Galataki 442 Holy Monastery of

Zoodohos Pigi 364 Mantamados 407 Monastery of St John the

Theologian 364 Monastery of the Apocalypse 364 Moni Agiou Gerasimou

489 Moni Arkadiou 269 Moni Evangelistrias 447 Moni Faneromenis 482 Moni Hozoviotissis 204-5 Moni Panagias Kounistras 447 Moni Panagias Spilianis

337, 388 Moni Preveli 271-2 Moni Taxiarhon 242 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail

Panormiti 332 Moni Toplou 294 Moni Ypsilou 409-10 Nea Moni 396 Skopelos 451-2 money 16-17, 19, 546-7 discount cards 544 monk seals 454, 455, 539 mosques Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan 273 Mosque of Murad Reis

307 Mosque of Süleyman 307 Neratzes Mosque 267 Yeni Tzami 405 mosquitoes 545 motorcycle travel 554-6 mountain biking, see

cycling mountain refuges 543 mountaineering 277 mountains Mt Dirfys 440 Mt Eros 140 Mt Kerkis 390 Mt Kynthos 231 Mt Ohi 443 Mt Pantokrator 473 Mt Parnitha 123 Mt Profitis Ilias 323 Mt Psiloritis 270 Mt Ypsario 427 Mt Zeus 193 museums 20, see also

archaeological museums, Byzantine museums Acropolis Museum 74-5, 75 Aegean Maritime Museum 171 Antivouniotissa Museum 468-9 Bee Museum 315-16 Benaki Museum 84-5 Bouboulina’s Museum 142 Christos Capralos Museum 131 Church Museum (Mandraki) 337 Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum 188 Ecclesiastical Museum of Milos 233 Epigraphical Museum 85 Folk Museum (Agios

Nikolaos) 287 Folk Museum (Naxos)

188

Folklore Museum (Aegina Town) 130 Folklore Museum (Agios

Georgios) 297 Folklore Museum

(Naoussa) 183 Folklore Museum of the

Northern Sporades 454

Greek Folk Art Museum 82-3 Hellenic Children’s Museum 90 Hellenic Maritime Museum 120 Herakleidon Museum 84 Historical Archives Museum of Hydra 137 Historical & Folk Art

Museum 267 Historical Museum of Crete 255 Industrial Museum of Ermoupoli 166 Jewish Museum 83 Kanellopoulos Museum 82 Karystos Museum 442 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

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Korgialenio History & Folklore Museum 487 Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion 136 Manos Faltaïts Folk

Museum 458 Maritime Museum of

Crete 276 Maritime Museum

(Oia) 219 Megaro Gyzi Museum

214

Milos Folk and History Museum 234 Milos Mining Museum

233 Mineralogical Museum 123 Mitropolis Museum 188 Museum of Ancient Greek Music 220 Museum of Asian Art

469 Museum of Contemporary Art (Andros) 157-8 Museum of Cretan Ethnology 265 Museum of Cycladic Art 85 Museum of Greek Children’s Art 90 Museum of Greek Popular

Instruments 85 Museum of Industrial

Olive Oil Production 408 Museum of Islamic Art 77 Museum of Marble Crafts 162 Museum of Popular Art 238 Museum of Prehistoric Thira 214 Museum of Solomos 497 Museum of the Decorative Arts 305 Museum of the Memorial

of the Refugees of 1922 407 Mykonos Folklore Museum 171 National Archaeological Museum 84, 92, 92 Natural History Museum

255

Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest 410 Nautical Museum 330 Nautical Museum of Inousses 399 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 257 Permanent Collection of

Ancient & Traditional Shipbuilding 276 Spetses Museum 142 Teriade Museum 405 Theophilos Museum 405 Volcanological Museum 339 Vrana Olive-Press Museum 408 War Museum (Athens) 90 War Museum (Lakki) 359 music 21, 530-2 festivals 91, 376, 457 Mykonos 169-77, 170, 150 Mylopotamos 502 Mylopotas 207-10 Myrina 414-16, 150 Myrties 355 Myrtos 296-7, 491 mythology 63, 305, 460 Mytilini Town 403-7, 404

N

Naoussa 182-4 National Archaeological Museum 84, 92, 92 national parks & reserves

538

Mt Parnitha National Park 123 National Marine Park of

Alonnisos-Northern Sporades 454 National Marine Park of

Zakynthos 498 nature 537-40 Navagio Bay 498, 145 Naxos 149, 186-96, 186, 149 neoclassical architecture 526 Nikea 338-9 Nisyros 335-9, 336,27 northeastern Aegean Islands 372-428, 373 accommodation 372 climate 372 food 372 highlights 373 travel seasons 372

O

Odysseus 492, 494 Oia 219-21, 5, 9 olives 408 Olymbos 323-4, 15, 19, 151 Olympic Games 66, 78 Ormos 207-10 Ottoman architecture 526 Ottoman rule 512 outdoor activities 47-51 ouzo 45

P

painting courses 454 palaces Achillion Palace 475 Agia Triada 263 Malia 263 Palace of Knossos 259-62, 259, 13

Palace of St Michael & St George 468 Palace of the Grand

Masters 306, 28 Phaestos 263 Zakros Palace 294-5 Paleohora 285-6 Pali 339 Paliki Peninsula 489-90 Panagia Drosiani 195 Panathenaic Procession 74 Panathenaic Stadium 78 Pandeli 359 Papandreou, Andreas 517 Papandreou, Georgios 516-17, 518-19 Paradeisos Waterfalls 421 Paralia Kymis 440-1 Parikia 179-82, 180 parks & gardens

Mon Repos Estate 469 National Gardens 78 Zappeio Gardens 78 Paros 177-84, 178-9 Parthenon 71-2, 12 Patitiri 453-5 Patmos 361-6, 362 Paxi 477-9, 478, 150 Peania 125 pensions 543 Pera Kastro 354 Perdika 131-2 Petaloudes 316 Petra 409

petrified forest (Lesvos) 410 Phaestos 263 photography 547 Pigadia 320-1 Piraeus 120-2, 120 Plaka 233-5 Plakias 270-1 planning activities 47-51 basic 16-17 budgeting 17 children, travel with

52-4, 90, 536 cruising 38-41 first-time travellers 18-19 food 42-6

Greek Islands’ regions 55-8 internet resources 17 island hopping 30-7 itineraries 24-9 transport 17 travel seasons 16, 31 Platanos 358-9 police 17, 548 politics 506-7 Pollonia 235 Polyhnitos 412-13 population 507, 520-3 Porch of the Caryatids

72, 433 Poros 133-5, 133 Poros Town 134-5 Potamos 502 Pothia 352-4 pottery 459, 460 Preveli Beach 272-98, 13 Propylaia 70-1 Psara 400-2 Psili Ammos 390 Psyhro 297-8 public holidays 547 Pyli 346 Pyrgi 397 Pythagoras 390 Pythagorio 387-9

R

Rafina 122 reiki courses 458 religion 507, 522-3 rembetika 112, 457, 530, 531

reserves, see national parks & reserves restrooms 548 Rethymno 266-9, 266 retsina 536 Rhodes 147, 301-17, 302, 10 Rhodes Town 304-13, 306, 308-9, 146 Rina 356 rock climbing 353 Rockwave Festival 23

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Roman sites catacombs 234 Gortyna 264 Hadrian’s Arch 78 Hadrian’s Library 77 Roman Agora 76 Roman Baths (Athens) 78 Roman baths (Loutraki)

451 Roman cistern 322 Roman quarry 443 Tallaras Roman baths

350

S

safe travel 17, 547-8 Athens 115 children, travel with 53 sailing & yachting 39, 474 Samaria Gorge 282-3, 11,

49, 151

Sami 490-1 Samos 383-91, 384-5 Samothraki 417-22, 418 Sanctuaries of the Foreign

Gods 230 Sanctuary of Artemis 125 Sanctuary of the Great

Gods 420-1 Sangri 195 San Michalis 168 Santorini (Thira) 147, 148,

211-23, 212, 9, 146, 149

Saronic Gulf Islands 126-44, 127 accommodation 126 climate 126 food 126 highlights 127 internet resources 130 island hopping 129 travel seasons 126 scams 115 Schinousa 198-9 scuba diving, see diving &

snorkelling sculpture 528 sea urchins 545 seals 454, 455 seasickness 37 senior travellers 544 Serifos 240-3, 241 Shipwreck Beach 498, 145 shopping 21 language 560 Sifnos 236-40, 237 Sikinos 225-6, 225 Sitia 293-4 Skala (Angistri) 132-3 Skala (Astypalea) 348-50 Skala Eresou 410-11 Skala (Patmos) 362-4 Skiathos 444-8, 445 Skiathos Town 444-7 Skopelos 448-52, 449 Skopelos Town 449-51 Skyrian horses 461 Skyros 457-62, 458, 15 Skyros carnival 460 Skyros Town 457-60 smoking 548 snakes 545 snorkelling, see diving &

snorkelling Sougia 284-5 Sparta 63 Spetses 141-4, 141 Spetses Town 142-4 Spili 270 Spinalonga Island 291, 30 Sporades, the 444-62, 438 accommodation 437 climate 437 food 437 highlights 438 travel seasons 437 St John the Divine 365 Steni 440 storks 539 surfing 48-50, 163 swallows 215 sweets 535-6 Symi 328-32, 329 synagogues

Etz Hayyim Synagogue 276 Kahal Shalom Synagogue 307 Syros 163-9, 164 syrtaki 532

T

taxis 556 Telendos Islet 355-6 telephone services 548 temples 432-3 Erechtheion 72 Parthenon 71-2 Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods 230 Sanctuary of Artemis 125

Sanctuary of the Great Gods 420-1 Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi 416 Temple of Aphaia 131 Temple of Aphrodite 305 Temple of Apollo 130 Temple of Artemis 469 Temple of Asclepius 346 Temple of Athena Nike 71 Temple of Demeter 195 Temple of Dionysos 412 Temple of Olympian Zeus 78 Temple of Poseidon 123 Temple to Athena (Ancient Kamiros) 316 Temple to Athena (Lindos) 314 Thasos 422-8, 423 Thasos (Limenas) 424-5 theatres 436 Ancient Delos 231 Apollo Theatre 168 festivals 376 National Theatre 113 Odeon of Herodes Atticus 74, 436 Theatre of Dionysos 72-4 thermal baths Kythnos 244 Loutra Edipsou 441 Thirasia 223 Tilos 332-5, 333 time 16, 548 Tinos 159-63, 161 tipping 19, 41, 547 toilets 548 tombs Lycian tomb (Kastellorizo) 327 Marathon Tomb 125 Tomb of the Unknown

Soldier 82 tourist information 548 tourist police 548 tours 556, see also

walking tours, boat trips, individual

locations

Homeric sites 493, 494 Tragaea 193

train travel 551-2, 556 travel to/from the Greek

Islands 550 travel within the Greek

Islands 552-6 Triopetra 272-98 Tris Boukes Bay 462

Trypiti 233-5 Turkish baths

Hammam Turkish Baths (Rhodes Town) 307 Therma 416 Turkish Baths (Athens) 77 turtles 498, 539, 151 tyropita 456 Tzermiado 297

V

vacations 547 Vaï 294, 27

Valley of the Butterflies 316 Vasiliki 483 Vatera 412-13 Vathy (Ithaki) 493-4 Vathy (Samos) 385-7, 386 Vathys 356 vegetarian travellers 536 Vidos Island 469 visas 16, 549 volcanoes Nisyros 338 Santorini (Thira) 214 Volcanological Museum 339 volunteering 549 Vravrona 125 Vromolithos 359

W

walking, see hiking walking tours

Athens 90, 94-5, 95 wars & battles

Balkan Wars 514 Battle of Marathon

123-5 Greek Civil War 515 Persian Wars 677-8 War of Independence 512-13 WWI 514-15 WWII 515 water (drinking) 241, 545-6 waterskiing 50 whistling language 443 wildflowers 537-8 wildlife 537-40 windsurfing 48, 49,

see also kitesurfing

Corfu 474 Mykonos 176 Naxos 188 Map Pages 000

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Paros 184 Rhodes 317 Syros 166 Vasiliki (Lefkada) 483 wine 536 festivals 23, 367, 443 wineries Embonas 316 Ikaria 380 Iraklio 262 Kefallonia 489 Naoussa 182 Rhodes 316 Santorini (Thira) 214-15 Sikinos 226 Vathy (Samos) 385 women travellers 549 work 549 World Heritage sites

Ancient Delos 230-2 Ireon 389 Nea Moni 396

X

Xirokambos 360

Y

yachting, see sailing & yachting yoga courses 454

Z

Zakros 294-5 Zakynthos 495-9, 496 Zakynthos Town 496-7 Zaros 264 zoos 90

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to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other

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574

Walking Tour detour Walking Tour Path/Walking Trail Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Diving Bodysurfing Sleeping Eating Entertainment Shopping Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Airport Border crossing Bus Cycling Ferry U-Bahn/Underground station Monorail Parking Metro station Petrol station S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Taxi Train station/Railway Tram Other Transport Tube station Lighthouse Hut/Shelter Beach Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall River, Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Glacier Mudflat Beach/Desert Airport/Runway Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) International Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village State/Province Camping Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Lane Tertiary Tollway Freeway Primary Steps Plaza/Mall Pedestrian overpass Secondary Unsealed road Road under construction Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Sights

Activities,

Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information

Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

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564

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERS

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes:

Alan Graham, Andy White, Anette Uddqvist, Anita Vriend, Apostolos Spyros, Christopher Hansen, David Mason, Dimitris Efstratiadis, Eberhard Zantke, Efrat Ben Shalom, Ester van Zuylen, George Moss, Jeroen Meeboer, Jesse Naiman, Jim Maas, JJ Wytrwal, Joske de Roode, Judith Bowman, Katarzyna Podgorska, Katy Tydeman, Kit Arthur, Lia Spartali, Linda Moss, Linda Swinn, Lorna Hitchin, Marina Metalios, Marjatta Reinius, Martijn Huijnen, Martin Kummel, Megan van Rooyen, Melike Sayman, Nicola Long, Philip Howard, Ralf Kaefer, Roland Keller, Roy Sayegh, Sofia Lizzio, Stephen Lioy, Stephen Strand, Susan Howard, Walter Lars

AUTHOR THANKS

Korina Miller

An enormous thank you to Mum and Dad for minding the fort while I was away and making it possible for me to take this project on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, Simone and Monique, for letting me work and also encour-aging me to take breaks. Thank you to Katie, Anna, Angela and Anthony at Lonely Planet for

their support and to my co-authors for their insights and camaraderie. A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the road – both locals and travellers – who shared their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for Greece. And to Kirk, my own personal Bukowski.

Alexis Averbuck

Honour to Alexandra Stamopoulou for always-inspiring tips and overall inspiration. Marina Flenga is, yet again, a fairy godmother, con-necting me to islanders everywhere. Marilee Anargyrou Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (Kerkyra), Olga Karayiannis and Eleni Masselou (Andros), Elina Dallas, Dimitris Foussekis and Maria Liarikos (Tinos), Michail Karampatsos and Michalis Pateras (Syros), Christiana Sofi-anopoulou and Dimitris Liaroutsos (Serifos), Vula Bolou and Sotiris Iliadis (Sifnos), Manita Scocimara-Ponghis (Kefallonia), and Petros Haritatos and Mike Tsanas (Spetses) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Ilias Nikolaidis and Elina Lychoudi were the King and Queen of Nightlife. Margarita, Kostas and Zisis, and Anthy and Costas made it home.

Michael Stamatios Clark

Ευχαριστω, thank you, to those who helped

make the road a welcoming destination – in particular, Heather Parsons, George and Mahi (Skopelos); Gisela (Skiathos), Chrysanthi Zygogianni, Niko Sekkes (Skyros); Kostas and

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

Behind the Scenes

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B

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IN

D

T

H

E S

C

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565

Bessie (Alonnisos) and Kyrillos on Evia; the

Fouskas family, Vasillis and Demetra, Kostas and Nana Vatsis (Ikaria). Special thanks to fellow authors Kate and Chris, and to Korina Miller for coordinating grace. And to my family – Janet, Melina and Alexander – Greek kisses on both cheeks for all.

Victoria Kyriakopoulos

Thanks to the great Greek Islands author team for sharing their food views and experiences, and to the Lonely Planet editors for another opportunity to write about Greek food and culture. Thanks to my ever-supportive husband Chris, and my Greek family and friends and the special and generous people who have made travelling in Greece such a joy.

Kali antamosi – next time my son Kostas will

get his first taste of the Greece I love.

Andrea Schulte-Peevers

Fond thanks to all the wonderful friends and strangers who’ve provided valuable local insights about Crete before and during my research ramblings around the island. These include (in no particular order): Miriam Bers, Utha Herzbruch-Ruess, Yiannis Zervakis, the Papadospiridaki family, Stravroula

(Kissamos), Lynn (Elounda), Madalina (Elounda) and Vaggelis Alegakis.

Richard Waters

My special thanks to everyone who made my trip more colourful with their filoxenia and generosity. In no particular order, Efi and Spyros, Marianna Angelou, Mikalis Melenos, Antonios, George, Rena Kioulafi, the Greek Tourist Board in London, Lily Alicabiotis, Ioannis at Kilindra, Enetikon Travel, Alexis at Afendoulis, Fokas, Ilidi Rock. My thanks, too, to the mapping and editorial team, and commissioning editors Katie O’Connell and Anna Tyler.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System

Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

Illustrations pp68–9, pp260–1 by Javier Martinez Zarracina.

Cover photograph: Oia, Santorini; Sakis Papadopoulos/Getty Images.

THIS BOOK

This 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Greek Islands guide-book was researched and written by Korina Miller, Alexis Averbuck, Michael Stamatios Clark, Victoria Kyriakopoulos, Andrea Schulte-Peevers and Richard Waters. In addition to these authors, Chris Deliso, Des Hannigan, Janet White, Gina Tsarouhas, Will Gourlay, Paul Hellander, Miriam Raphael and Andrew Stone also worked on previous editions of the book.

This guidebook was com-missioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Katie O’Connell, Anna Tyler Coordinating Editors Paul Harding, Kate Mathews, Branislava Vladisavljevic Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia Managing Editors Bruce Evans, Martine Power Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler

Senior Editor Karyn Noble Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Penny Cordner, Laura Gibb, Anne Mulvaney Cover Research Naomi Parker

Internal Image Research Rebecca Skinner

Thanks to Anita Banh, Elin Berglund, Barbara Di Castro, Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Kath-erine Marsh, Wayne Murphy, Catherine Naghten, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton, Angela Tinson, Gina Tsarouhas

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our content.’