Secrets to Dog Training v7.0

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Acknowledgements

Daniel would particularly like to thank Darren and Janelle Whitcombe for their guidance and advice. In addition, a big thanks to the Stevens family.

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– From a Declaration of Principles jointly adopted by a Committee of the American Bar Association and a Committee of Publishers and associations

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Introduction

Secrets to Dog Training is a complete A-Z handbook for dog owners. Covering all aspects of dog ownership, from choosing a puppy to understanding your dog to problem-solving to complete obedience work, we've aimed to cover every facet of dog ownership in a simple, step-by-step format.

When you take on the ownership of a dog, you're accepting complete responsibility for that dog's physical and emotional wellbeing. Your dog depends on you for absolutely everything he needs to survive.

We at Secrets to Dog Training recognize that this can be a daunting task, and that becoming an experienced, knowledgeable owner has its potential pitfalls and problem areas. By outlining the responsibilities at hand, as well as the information you'll require in order to raise a happy, healthy dog, we hope to take all the difficulty out of adopting a dog and let you get on with all of the fun. Secrets to Dog Training is laid out in a series of nine chapters. These chapters are further divided into three basic sections, or 'courses,' all of which deal with specific aspects of dog ownership. For example, the first course (chapters one through three) deals with the introductory aspects of dog ownership - such as what to consider before adopting a dog, how to 'match-make' yourself with your perfect dog, the practical demands of dog ownership, and so on.

The second course (chapters four through six) is concerned more with improving the owner-dog connection. You'll learn about canine communication and how to interpret body language and vocalization, as well as how to recognize and solve a variety of specific problem behaviors. We finish up this section with a chapter on basic obedience.

The third course of Secrets to Dog Training (the final three chapters) is devoted to an introduction to and explanation of "dog whispering" techniques to further your training, as well as an extended look at additional problem behaviors and advanced obedience work.

You can refer to the diagram on the next page for a visual map of the book and more details on each three-chapter 'course.' Don't let the amount of information put you off - you can read this book cover to cover, or simply pick and choose from the sections that interest you.

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UNDERSTANDING WELLBEING TRAINING

DOG 101: It’s A Dog’s Life

Dog Ownership and •

You

Selecting Your Puppy •

or Dog

Where to Adopt From • Breed Groups • Responsible • Ownership Review of DOG 101 • DOG 102: Caring for Your Dog

Bringing Your Puppy •

or Dog Home Diet and Nutrition •

Canine Growth •

Stages

Toys for Your Dog •

Safe and Fun Toys •

to Buy

Choosing Your Vet • Review of DOG 102 • DOG 103: Training Methods Revealed Types of Training • Secrets to Training • Your Dog Crate Training • Obedience Training • and Age Selecting a Dog • Trainer Review of DOG 103 • DOG 201: Secrets to Understanding Your Dog Understanding Your • Dog Dog Senses • How Dogs • Communicate Using Scent Guide to Body • Language and Signals Guide to Facial • Expressions and Vocals Wolf Instincts • Review of DOG 201 • DOG 202: Common Behavior Problems An Introduction to • Aggression Problems Aggression • Continued: Treatment Program for Dominance Dog-On-Dog • Aggression Fear Biting • Play-Biting •

Chewing and Other • Destructive Behavior Jumping on Furniture • Jumping on People • Digging Problems • Disobedience •

Fear of the Leash • Off-Leash Problems • Leash-Pulling • Problems Barking Problems • Whining • Thieving • Travel Problems • Review of Dog 202 • DOG 203: Commands to Start Come (Recall) • Sit Stage I • Okay and No •

Hold and Drop It” •

Sit – Stage II •

Sit and Stay •

Down (Drop) – Stage •

I

Down (Drop) – Stage • II Heel – Stage I • Heel – Stage II •

Heel – Stage III • Stand Wait • Seek (Find) • Training Program • Review of DOG 203 • DOG 301: Dog Whispering Uncovered Defining Dog • Whispering Dog Whispering: •

About the Method Dog Whispering: • Interventions Dog Whispering: • Corrections

Dog Whispering with •

Common Commands The Trouble with Dog • Whispering Review of DOG 301 • DOG 302: Health-Related Problems Solved Separation Anxiety •

Two Dogs in the •

House Allergies •

Bad Dog Breath • Cat / Dog • Coexistence Coprophagia (Poop • Eating) Flatulence • Fleas •

Hot Weather and • Heatstroke Jealousy • Worms • DOG 303: Advanced Commands and Tricks

Advanced “Sit and •

Stay” Stage I Advanced “Sit and •

Stay” Stage II More “Sit and Stay” • Advanced “Seek” • (Find) Beg • Fetch (Retrieve) • Catch • Shake • Climb • Crawl • Jump • Roll Over • LEVEL 3 LEVEL 2 LEVEL 1

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DOG 101: It’s a Dog’s Life

In this section we deal with the initial considerations of dog ownership, starting with what you need to think about before getting a dog. From there, we’ll move on to choosing a puppy: how to match yourself up with your ideal puppy, where to find one, and how to deal with (and find) a good breeder. We’ll also consider some of the typical traits of popular dog breeds to give you an idea of what to expect. Lastly, we’ll take a look at what it means to be a responsible owner.

A. Dog Ownership and You

Your dog is going to be a part of your life from between eight to twenty years, barring accident or illness - so it’s worth taking some time now to avoid a potential mismatch.

In order to eliminate as much of the guesswork as possible when it comes to choosing your canine companion, you need to honestly evaluate yourself, your lifestyle, what you want out of a dog, and what you can offer in return! Here are some valid points to consider:

How much time do you realistically have to spend with your dog? Do ●

you work long hours? Do you have a demanding social life? Do you like to travel often?

Have you really considered the financial implications of dog ownership? ●

What will happen if your dog gets sick or has an accident? Is there room in your budget for the unexpected? Is there room in your small car for a big dog?

How much time do you like to spend in physical activity each day? Are ●

you a couch potato or an outdoorsy, energetic type?

What are your basic personality traits? Are you an outspoken type ●

who's accustomed to getting their own way, or a timid person who avoids confrontation at all costs? Are you a patient teacher or do you have a hair-trigger temper?

Believe it or not, all of these traits can affect the sort of dog that will best suit you and your lifestyle.

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Time

One of the most basic needs of any dog is time - specifically, your time. Dogs are time-consuming creatures: in terms of effort and time expenditure, some owners liken the adoption of a dog to the arrival of a new child.

Dogs need training (puppies even more so), exercise, play time, and affection - as well as checkups, feeding, grooming, and the time that’s spent simply keeping each other company.

Not only is it inconsiderate and even cruel to leave your dog without frequent companionship and exercise, but it can be dangerous. A poorly-trained, inadequately socialized dog is a menace to himself, his family, and anyone else he encounters. If your dog attacks somebody, you can be held responsible (people have been sued and have even gone to jail because they haven’t controlled their dogs properly).

A busy work schedule is a fact of life for most of us, but this need not deter you from welcoming a dog into your home. You will need to plan around this obstacle, though - consider arranging for a dog-walker, a dog-sitter, doggie day-care, or even just having a trusted neighbor drop by for half an hour a day to exercise and play with your dog.

If you’re getting a puppy, don’t forget to factor in additional time for training, housebreaking, socializing, and playtime. When you first bring the puppy home, it’s best if you can take a few days off work to minimize the stress of adjustment. Despite their many charms, puppies are even more needy when it comes to demands on your time than adult dogs.

The breed of dog that you choose will also contribute to how much time is required for exercise and training. Some breeds are more difficult to housebreak than others; some breeds require literally hours of exercise each day!

Finances

The cost involved in keeping a dog is a very real issue. Aside from the initial cost to buy a dog, there are many other costs which can vary hugely depending on whether you adopt from a shelter, buy from a pet store, or get your dog from a breeder (and this will also depend on whether he or she is mixed-breed, a pet-quality purebred, or a show-quality purebred).

Here are some of the costs to consider:

Food. Depending on the size of your dog, from $15 to $45 a week. ●

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General equipment: toys, collars, leads, chews, grooming implements, ●

crates, bedding, kennels.

Boarding costs: you’ll likely need to go away at some point, whether ●

it’s on holiday, to a wedding, a funeral, or a work function.

Medical costs. Checkups and inoculations at the vet are vital. Also, you ●

should plan on the likelihood of your dog getting sick at some point. This costs money. You may consider pet insurance as well, which will protect you in the case of unexpected surgery and chronic or long term conditions.

Registration and license. ●

Puppy school, obedience work, and professional training if required. ●

Emergency costs: there are always unexpected costs when it comes ●

to dog ownership. If you don’t have insurance, for example, or have skimped on a cheap plan, unexpected costs can floor you when you least expect it.

If you consider your own budget and how flexible you can afford to be when it comes to your pet, this will help you to make a responsible choice and ensure that the dog you choose gets the care he deserves.

Listed below is a comprehensive checklist of the potential financial factors involved with owning a dog. Try speaking to your vet, local boarding kennels, pet store, and any friends that have dogs - this will help you to get estimates for each of these items, so that any unexpected bills do not catch you out.

YOUR DOG BUDGET $$ $/WEEK

Purchase price Vaccinations

Dog food and treats Collars and leads

Registration and/or license fees Toys

Kennel, crate, or enclosure Grooming

Health insurance, vet bills, spaying / neutering Boarding kennels

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Exercise and Activity

All dogs need exercise. Like humans, the minimum that the average adult dog requires to maintain basic overall fitness is 30 to 45 minutes of vigorous exercise, at least three or four times a week. Many dogs need a lot more than this - a Border Collie, for example, can run over 100 miles in the course of a normal working day!

To make sure that you’re exercising your dog adequately, you’ll need to research the basic exercise requirements of the breed of dog that you’ve chosen (or, if a mixed breed, adhere to at least the minimum requirements, and exceed them if it seems necessary).

The size of a dog doesn’t necessarily correspond with his or her energy level. It’s popularly believed that the bigger the dog, the more exercise it needs, but appearances can be deceiving. Many smaller dogs have incredible stamina and a great need for intense cardiovascular exercise, whereas a lot of the larger dogs (think Great Danes, Mastiffs, Newfoundlands) are real couch potatoes and are happy to lie about the house all day.

For busy people, fitting in an extra hour or so per day to exercise the dog can be a real chore. But spending active time with your dog doesn’t need to be drudgery - there are lots of fun activities you can do to work in the necessary mileage. Many of these are interactive and mentally challenging as well: just consider agility training, tracking, Frisbee, or even plain old fetch.

Your Personality

Your own personality ‘type’ has a great impact on whether or not you and your chosen dog are likely to enjoy any kind of emotional bond. Of course, it’s pretty hard to typify human personalities - like dogs, we’re all individuals - but if you can honestly evaluate yourself in terms of your desire for physical affection (some dogs love to cuddle!), your ability to be patient, how prepared you are to deal with stubbornness, and how comfortable you are with discipline and asserting yourself, it’s possible to take a lot of the guesswork out of selecting a four-legged friend. You’ll need to use these insights about your own personality with a bit of information on your favored breeds to narrow down your field of choices.

It’s not really possible to predict what kind of personality your dog is going to have, but certain breeds have been ‘designed’ in a way that encourages particular traits and character aspects. We will look at this in greater depth in the section titled “Dog Groups.”

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B. Selecting Your Puppy or Dog

Choosing the right puppy is a matter of careful thought and research. Too many people are suckered into making impulse choices they later regret - it’s so easy to be seduced by the very first puppy that you see, but resist this temptation! Both you and your final choice of dog will be glad that you did.

Breed Selection

A purebred is a lot more than just an ordinary dog wearing a fancy suit. Dog breeds have developed over thousands of years through selective breeding, which deliberately emphasizes certain traits and weeds out others. All breeds of dog were originally bred to do a certain job, whether it’s herding livestock (Border Collies), hunting lions in the jungle (Rhodesian Ridgebacks), pulling supplies for hundreds of miles across arctic tundra (Siberian Huskies) or simply looking pretty and keeping us humans company (the toy breeds).

Of course, these jobs have very little impact on modern-day life for the vast majority of people - most of us just want a dog for simple companionship. But you still need to carefully consider the jobs that your preferred breed(s) of dog were intended to do, because this has a big impact on how well he’ll be suited to your household and lifestyle. A Husky will do perfectly well without the opportunity to pull sledges across the snow, for example, but he still has an inherent need to explore and run endlessly - which is something that a city-dweller would need to think about before adopting one.

A lot of us are attracted to particular breeds of dog because of the way that they look, which is nothing to be ashamed of - it’s only natural to pursue the things that catch our eye, after all. What’s really important is that you follow up this initial attraction with a little research so you can get an idea of whether or not that particular breed’s hardwired attributes (guarding, chasing, herding, tracking, and so on) can be easily incorporated into your life - because if not, you both may be unhappy.

The best thing you can do is talk to some breeders of the particular breed that’s caught your fancy. Ask them about the types of people who do best with the breed, what the breed’s requirements are, how much exercise they need, what the more troublesome aspects of the breed are. Basically, make sure you know what you’re getting before you get it.

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For a start, you might take a look at the Kingdom of Pets breed library: www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/dogbreeds/).

You can also browse online, ask your dog-owning friends, or a vet. And there’s always the good old local library. There is more than enough dog-breed information out there.

More information on finding and selecting breeders is given in Section C: Selecting a Breeder.

Where to Find Your Dog or Puppy

When it comes to finding your perfect puppy or dog, there are several choices open to you (both good ones and bad ones):

Reputable breeders ●

Adoption or rescue shelters ●

REPUTABLE BREEDERS

Sometimes called private breeders or noncommercial breeders, "real" breeders are in the business for the love of dogs, not the profit (dog-breeding is rarely a profitable business when performed ethically).

A good breeder will:

Raise the puppies inside the house, or in a place where they can ●

become accustomed to humans from a young age. Restrict themselves to one or two breeds only. ●

Question you extensively about your lifestyle, experience, and the ●

proposed environment for the puppy before allowing you to take one of the pups.

Screen the dogs for genetic disease, and provide certification of this ●

upon request.

Breed no more than a couple of litters per year. Each individual female ●

will be bred only once per year.

Buying a puppy from a proper breeder ensures as much as possible that your purebred pup is healthy, well-socialized, and doesn't have any preexisting

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RESCUE SHELTERS

Rescue shelters, or adoption shelters, are an excellent option for finding a pet. The dogs in these establishments are more often than not there through no fault of their own - they've been discarded by their original owners for any one of a huge number of reasons (financial problems, relationship breakup, a new baby, the owners have moved house, etc).

It's true that a lot of rescue-shelter dogs are jumpy and nervous the second time around; they've suffered a huge trauma - having effectively been 'orphaned' - and will naturally need some time to adjust. It's estimated that an abandoned dog takes between six weeks and four months before he or she shakes off the symptoms of trauma caused by abandonment (anxiety, depression, looking around for familiar people and sights).

Often the dogs in adoption shelters are an ideal choice for first-time owners, because they're already housetrained and have also usually been trained to some degree in obedience commands. This is an incredible weight off a novice owner (as anyone who's ever had to housetrain a puppy will agree!).

Another benefit of choosing to get your dog from a rescue shelter is that the dogs you'll find there - even the purebred ones - are much less expensive than those purchased from a breeder (think $50 instead of $500).

Good shelters have some form of veterinary care on hand as well. Some will neuter / spay the dogs they take in, and most all will do this as a service included in the modest adoption fee. The animals come to their new owners injury- and disease-free, which is a fantastic bonus (especially when considering the huge number of heart-breaking genetic diseases that most purebreds are prone to). At the very least, you'll be notified of any existing conditions before purchase, and will be given an idea of the care and expense required for treatment. In addition to all these benefits, the emotional reward that comes from taking in an abandoned animal is often the best part of all. A lot of dogs adopted from shelters are so grateful to be given a second chance (yes, dogs do feel gratitude) that they quickly form intense bonds of love and loyalty with their new owners - bonds that can be even more intense than those experienced by an owner who's raised a 'brand-new' puppy.

Where Not To Find Your Dog

There are a lot of valid reasons to avoid choosing any of the below options as the place to find your dog:

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Puppy mills ● Pet stores ● Backyard breeders ● PUPPY MILLS

Puppy mills are essentially puppy factories. The production of 'popular-breed' dogs is a profit-making business for some people, which means that there is no quality of life for the dogs and puppies involved, little to no attention paid to hygiene or nutrition, and the puppies raised aren't socialized or shown any affection. These puppies are also prone to disease if not unwell already.

These same puppies are then taken from their mothers well before they should be (usually around five weeks of age) and shipped - sometimes for hundreds of miles - across country, where they end up in a little glass box in a pet store. These puppies are not good choices for pets. They almost always come with serious behavioral problems and neuroses, and are usually suffering from malnutrition and a variety of other close-quarters diseases.

The team at Kingdom of Pets strongly discourages purchasing a puppy from a puppy mill - no matter how sorry you feel for the poor puppies, to do so only supports this growing business and encourages others to join in.

PET STORES

Pet stores are the only establishments supplied by puppy mills - in effect, they're the reason that puppy mills exist.

Puppies in pet stores are confined to small glass cages, either by themselves or with one or two other puppies. They receive little to no exercise, little handling, and little socialization. The average puppy arrives at a pet store at five weeks old, and stays there until he is twelve weeks old - by the time he's adopted, that's more than half his life spent in virtual solitary confinement.

Pups from pet stores have the same problems that puppy-mill puppies have emotional problems, behavioral upsets, and diseases. They're usually problematic dogs to raise, as it takes a LOT of work to counteract the damage inflicted by the conditions at the mill and the pet store.

To top it all off, people who buy from pet stores are often impulse-shoppers: they see a cute puppy in the store window and buy it on the spot, without a thought for preparation, information, the puppy's history, or how to successfully rear a dog. Instant gratification is hard to resist, but a dog is not a commodity

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BACKYARD BREEDERS

This is an all-encompassing term for people who breed dogs on a non-commercial level with little to no thought for genetic health, desirable traits, or the wellbeing of the dogs and puppies involved.

Common mistakes made by a typical backyard breeder might include:

Rearing the litters away from the house, where the pups have no ●

chance to become accustomed to people and daily living.

Feeding puppies on the nutritional equivalent of sawdust and water, to ●

minimize costs and maximize profits.

Breeding females too often, which produces underweight and unhealthy ●

pups, and shortens the mother's lifespan.

Backyard breeders sometimes prey on inexperienced buyers by making claims without backing them up: for example, claiming that litters have been screened against genetic disease, but failing to provide certification.

Remember that plenty of genetic diseases don't show up until the dog is one or two years old, so it's not possible to screen for everything in each individual pup (which is why parents and grandparents are required to be screened). A good breeder won't have a problem informing you about any genetic disease the breed is prone to, and will offer advice on the best course of action should the need arise.

At What Age Should You Get Your Dog?

It’s generally agreed that puppies need to stay with their mothers and littermates until they’re at least eight weeks of age. This isn’t just an arbitrary number - the reasons for doing so are convincing.

Taking a puppy away from its litter before eight weeks is actually damaging to the pup. All puppies must have the chance to learn those vital pack-interaction skills from their brothers and sisters, but the main problem with such an early adoption is the lack of learned bite-inhibition.

When puppies play with their littermates, they play rough - biting and wrestling. Any puppy bitten too hard will squeal sharply, and refuse to continue playing with the biter. This is how puppies learn to control the force with which they bite - it’s a valuable lesson, and one most effectively taught by other dogs at a young age. Without the opportunity to learn bite control, dogs grow up without understanding the damage that can be inflicted by a careless bite, which can be a major problem in an adult dog.

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You can also adopt a puppy that’s older than the standard eight to ten weeks. The basic advantages of adoption for both age groups are outlined below. BENEFITS OF CHOOSING A YOUNG PUPPY (8 TO 16 WEEKS) OVER AN OLDER ONE:

The pup has no behaviors set, good or bad. You control the influences ●

he or she gets and which behaviors are encouraged Puppies adapt readily to your life and your home. ●

You’re a part of the pup’s life from his first day away from his mother ●

and siblings - this encourages a strong bond.

Your dog will never again be as physically appealing and downright ●

adorable as he is during early puppyhood. Never underestimate the cuteness of a young puppy!

BENEFITS OF CHOOSING AN OLDER PUPPY (16 WEEKS AND UP) OVER A YOUNG ONE:

Older pups have more control over their bowels and bladder, which ●

makes housetraining a lot easier.

They may have had some training already in obedience work. ●

Personality traits are starting to emerge: you can get a better idea of ●

what kind of dog he or she is growing up to be.

Choosing Your Puppy From a Litter

Before choosing a puppy, it’s good to have a basic idea of canine interaction and communication if at all possible. Without understanding the underlying causes behind a lot of puppy behavior, it’s easy to make mistakes when confronted with a squirming, playful crowd of cute pups - mistakes that, more often than not, turn out to be both exhausting and heartbreaking to deal with.

A lot of people make the mistake of choosing a puppy because they feel sorry for it. When there’s a pup sitting all by himself in the corner, not playing with the other puppies, it’s natural to want to adopt that puppy and try to ‘fix’ him. This is a commendable impulse, but it’s important to understand the consequences of such an action before doing something you might regret.

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A healthy, normal puppy is moderately self-confident, energetic, and playful. He should be involved to at least some extent with other puppies. If there’s a pup that’s isolated from or ignored by the others, there is a very good reason for it - and one that you probably don’t want to involve yourself with. He might be sick, he might be malnourished, or he might have serious behavioral problems. By all means, adopt the ‘trouble puppy’ of the litter, but don’t do it out of a misguided sense of pity and charity - know what you’re getting into, because all too often these are the pups that grow up to be abandoned or sent to the shelter because the owners can’t cope.

The dominant puppy of the litter can be just as much of a handful, but for different reasons. The pup that comes romping right up to you without a care in the world isn’t just friendly - he’s dominant by nature, a natural alpha-dog, and is showing this by “leading” the other pups over to you. This is usually the one that grows up to be stubborn, bossy, feisty, scrappy - all qualities that are endearing to the right owner, but do you have enough experience with dogs to cope with these time-consuming and sometimes frustrating character traits? Spend some time with the pups - this will help you to get a feel for the ones you connect with best. If possible, visit several times and at different times of the day to see how they behave when they’re playing, feeding, wide awake, and tired out.

Once you’ve got an idea of the one you want, take him a short distance away from the other pups (to prevent him becoming distracted) and play with him. Is he curious or scared? Does he investigate or back away? Is he happy to be handled and stroked, or does he struggle, whimper, and try to get away? Paying attention to details like these is how you can tell what ‘type’ of personality this pup is likely to have.

Take this opportunity to quickly check him over for possible illness, as well. Look him over from nose to tail: his skin should be smooth and free of lumps or bumps, fur should be shiny and thick with no thinning or bald spots (aside from the tummy and inside of legs), eyes should be clear of discharge, ears should smell sweet and look clean, and his teeth should be white and sharp.

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C. Where to Adopt From

So, as discussed in the previous section, there are essentially two good places to get your dog from: a breeder and an adoption shelter. But how to choose the right one?

Choosing The Right Adoption Shelter

This is a lot simpler than going to a breeder - you don’t have to worry about pedigree certification or following any of the other paper trails in place for purebred dogs.

It really boils down to whether or not you feel comfortable with the environment of the shelter. Are the staff friendly and caring? Are they happy to answer all your questions, or do they make you feel as though you’re getting in the way? What about the kennels or runs for the dogs - are they clean and hygienic? Unfortunately, a lot of shelters are understaffed, which means that sometimes the dogs aren’t able to get all the exercise and human contact that they need. This isn’t necessarily the fault of the shelter. Usually, they’re run on government money and donations, which makes for a pretty slim existence.

Regardless of how prosperous the shelter appears, you should still get a sense that the staff have a true affinity with the animals there and that the wellbeing of those animals is of paramount importance.

It doesn’t take much to get an idea of how well the animals are treated and cared for by staff: stop and talk to a few of them, have a look around the shelter. Even a brief conversation with some of the staff will enable you to make sure that they care about the dogs, and that they’re genuinely committed to their work. A shelter with competent, caring staff is more likely to provide you with a healthy, well-balanced dog.

Most shelters have a screening process for applicants, and retain the right to refuse applications at their discretion. Adoption shelters have their own standards when it comes to selecting appropriate homes for abandoned animals, and will only choose owners that they consider to be in the best interests of the animal. This is nothing personal; it’s a safety-net that’s in place to ensure that the dogs placed out have as high a chance as possible of being matched with a suitable new owner. This lessens the chances of that dog being returned to the shelter again, which is often devastating for that dog. Expect a question-answer session.

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Choosing A Breeder

Finding a good dog breeder isn’t necessarily a difficult thing to do. To track down the breed you like, there are several resources at hand:

Dog shows. If there are dog shows near you, go along and have a ●

look. You can see the dogs first-hand, and have plenty of opportunity to talk to the breeders and handlers. Find out about dog shows nearby by contacting the American Kennel Club (AKC) or United Kennel Club (UKC).

Breed clubs. These cater for specific breeds, and handle showing, ●

breeding, and often special training and activity groups. Contact them and they will be able to tell you about the closest breeders to you. Talk to dog owners. If you see a dog you like, ask the owner for a ●

recommendation - where did they get their dog? Would they recommend that breeder?

Other breeders. If you get hold of one breeder who doesn't have ●

the right puppy for you, they should be able to point you in the right direction of other breeders who can help.

Once you've tracked a breeder down, go along and have a look. Some breeders - especially those specializing in rare breeds - are happy to send their dogs long-distance without you being required to turn up for an interview first. This might be handy, but you also run the risk of purchasing a sub-quality dog from a sub-quality breeder.

Where at all possible, you should pay a visit and inspect the premises thoroughly, including kennels. Pay attention to any dogs you see - do they seem clean and well cared-for? Are they happy and sociable? Are the surroundings hygienic and clean?

You can expect to be questioned by the breeder about your lifestyle and whether you've had dogs before, whether you have a crate for the puppy, why you chose this particular breed, how long the dog will be left alone for during the day, and other matters which indicate how competent and caring an owner you're likely to be.

In return, there are several important questions that you'll want to ask before taking a puppy home:

What kind of people tend to do best with this breed? ●

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How much exercise do the dogs need? ●

Are there any special care requirements for these particular dogs, or ●

the breed in general?

At what stage are the pup's vaccinations up to (the first batch of shots, ●

the second batch, and so on)?

What genetic diseases is this breed prone to? (This is something you'll ●

probably want to check out yourself before you go to see the breeder - but it never hurts to ask.)

Have the parents and grandparents of the pup been screened against ●

these diseases? If so, can you see the certification? (For things like hip and eye problems, both grandparents on both sides should be certified as well, since testing has been in place for both these ailments for the longest time.)

Can you meet the parents? ●

Meet the Parents

Meeting both of the parents of the litter you’re looking at isn’t always possible - frequently the sire (the father) has been hired out from his owners, so won’t be on the premises. But if you can meet both parents, then so much the better: you’ll get an idea of the temperament, health, and general condition of your pup’s parents, which is a reliable forerunner of how your own puppy is likely to turn out a few years down the track.

At the least, try to meet the mom - pups are raised by their mothers, and learn a lot of their disposition traits and habits from her.

Ask, and see for yourself, whether she’s friendly to dogs and people - both familiar and unfamiliar - and what basic temperament she has. If she’s nervous, jumpy, or aggressive, you may want to think again before taking one of her puppies, as traits such as these are sometimes passed on from the mother.

Authentication and Registration

A pedigree puppy should already be registered by the breeder, and before you make a firm commitment you should ask to see the authentication papers and documentation. Even if you don’t care about pedigree in itself, you may well be paying pedigree prices so it’s worth making sure you’re getting value for money.

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If and when you do purchase the puppy, the breeder must also provide you with registration papers to prove that the puppy has been officially re-registered in your name.

Vaccinations and General Health

All puppies need three sets of inoculations, which are spaced out over several weeks. This is to prevent them from falling prey to fatal diseases like rabies, adenovirus, and parvovirus. Nursing puppies receive antibodies to these diseases via the mother’s milk - but when weaned, the protection fades off over several weeks.

Because over-inoculation (inoculating when antibodies are already present) is harmful to dogs and puppies, it’s necessary to wait until all the mother’s antibodies have worn off, but to time it so that there isn’t too long of an unprotected period: it’s generally accepted that eight weeks is the ideal age for the first set of shots.

Because you shouldn’t adopt a puppy that is younger than eight weeks, the pup should already have had the first shots by the time you adopt him. At the least, there will have been an appointment made for vaccinations by the breeder. Make sure you receive evidence of inoculations and checkups in the form of a vaccination card from the vet, or the vet records. This should also specify whether the pup has been wormed (which he should certainly have been, since all puppies are born with worms), when he is due for his next round of shots and any other treatments, and certify his condition at the time the vet saw him (including the absence or presence of any indicators of possible genetic disease).

Dietary Needs

Puppies have delicate stomachs that are easily upset by a change in routine. Ask the breeder or adoption shelter that you got your pup from what brand of food he’s accustomed to, and what his feeding schedule is.

Beware of anyone who tells you that the puppy has been “free-fed.” This is where a bowl of food is placed out for the dogs, allowing them to eat at will during the day. It’s bad practice among younger dogs, as it encourages food aggression in the litter, and is a real hindrance when it comes to

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enforcing a housebreaking schedule. Without a regimented feeding schedule, a young puppy has no chance to accustom his internal clock to any sort of routine. So his hunger pangs and toilet needs will remain extremely unpredictable.

If you wish to change your pup’s food, do so gradually: mix a little bit of the new food in with the old, and gradually increase this over a period of one to two weeks until his old food has been completely replaced.

Most adoption shelters and breeders will supply you with a diet sheet and one or two days’ worth of food to get you started. The diet sheet will detail amounts and times that the puppy is fed, but as a general rule of thumb:

Pups under seven months get three meals a day, and should eat until ●

satisfied at each meal.

Puppies and dogs over seven months should get two meals per day. ●

You technically

● can feed adult dogs on just one meal per day, but it’s best to break this up into two meals to prevent digestive upset, low blood sugar, and bloat.

Keep an eye on your dog or puppy and monitor how well he’s doing on his current brand of food. Is his coat shiny and free of flakes, dull spots, and bald patches? Are his eyes shiny and bright? Does he have lots of energy?

If you feel your dog would do better on another brand or diet, you can change him over as long as you do so gradually (as you would for a puppy). To be on the safe side, you may wish to consult your vet beforehand.

Following Up

Most, if not all, adoption shelters and breeders will want to hear from you if problems should arise with the puppy. If your pup turns out to be incompatible with your lifestyle, most breeders and adoption shelters will prefer that you to return the puppy to them. Many are also available for advice on health and training for some time after adoption.

Before taking the puppy home, make sure you ask whether you can contact the breeder or shelter if problems do occur. (Of course, if you have any urgent questions - for example, you think your puppy or dog might be sick or injured - then call the vet, not the breeder or shelter.)

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D. Breed Groups

It’s a good idea to choose a breed of dog based on its suitability for your personality and lifestyle. There are many breeds within each group, each having their own distinct characteristics, abilities, and requirements. Some information on these may assist you in narrowing down the candidates for your eventual choice of pet.

Working Dogs

Includes: Rottweiler, Doberman, Boxer, Saint Bernard, Newfoundland

These dogs are bred to perform serious jobs like guard work, protection, search and rescue, and police work. They tend to be highly intelligent and physically very powerful, requiring plenty of mental and physical exercise to keep them happy and relaxed.

Dogs in this category usually have strong guarding and territorial instincts, which makes early and extensive socialization with humans and animals an absolute necessity.

Working breeds do best with owners who have some previous experience with dogs. They can be demanding pets. In the right hands, they make excellent and affectionate family dogs, as they’ve been bred to work very closely with humans.

Sporting Dogs

Includes: Pointer, Retriever, Weimaraner, Spaniel, Labrador

Sporting dogs are bred to work in close contact with humans, which makes them excellent candidates for obedience training - they’re usually eager to please and quick on the uptake. These qualities make them excellent family dogs, and good choices for a first-time owner.

Some sporting dogs were bred to work fairly independently from their owners and hunters, and so have a strong instinct to explore and roam. Thorough training in recall is important with the sporting breeds before they’re allowed off-leash,

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since they have little natural instinct to return to their owner once they are off! As a general rule, sporting dogs need plenty of exercise. That means several walks per day, and as many opportunities to run as possible.

Herding Dogs

Includes: German Shepherd, Border Collie, Queensland Heeler, Briard, Old English Sheepdog.

Herding dogs are bred to control large groups of unruly and sometimes dangerous livestock, and in some cases to protect them from predators and thieves.

This is a demanding job, both physically and mentally - herding dogs must be capable of making independent decisions as well as following extensive, complicated instruction from their handlers. As a result, herding breeds are usually very intelligent, highly athletic, and require plenty of mental and physical stimulation to keep them happy.

These dogs usually make fantastic companion animals. But their hardwired herding instincts are not uncommon (such as chasing and “rounding up” family members or other animals, and nipping at your heels). These can be difficult to deal with, though not impossible to “untrain.”

Hounds

There are two different groups in the hound category: scent hounds and sight hounds.

SIGHT HOUNDS

Includes: Afghan, Basenji, Greyhound, Whippet, Saluki

Sight hounds are bred to hunt in packs, so they’re generally pretty sociable with other dogs. As a rule, they’re leggy, slim, and extremely fast. Sight hounds

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should not be allowed to run off-lead without reliable recall training, as once they take off you have little chance of catching them again.

These dogs require a fair amount of exercise on a daily basis to keep them happy and healthy, and need as much opportunity to run - preferably off-lead - as you can provide.

Sight hounds tend to be sensitive in nature, and respond well to mild, gentle, and consistent training. They also have a fairly independent streak, and can be aloof with strangers. Thorough socialization is necessary from a young age to combat timidity and shyness.

SCENT HOUNDS

Includes: Basset Hound, Bloodhound, Foxhound, Coonhound

Scent hounds were bred to track by scent, rather than sight, and so are predisposed to be distracted by the smells around them. For this reason, they shouldn’t be taken off-lead unless they’re thoroughly trained in the recall command. A hound that’s scented something tempting will go haring off without a backwards glance.

Scent hounds can be very difficult to housetrain, partly because they were bred to live outside in kennels with other dogs - an environment with little requirement for instinctive cleanliness.

Scent hounds also tend to be loud, with distinctive baying and howling sounds that carry for miles. Despite this, they seem to have little instinct to put this vocalization to use as watchdogs - strangers can usually come and go with little to no disturbance from a scent hound.

Scent hounds don’t require huge amounts of exercise, with a vigorous daily walk sufficing for the most part. With characteristically gentle, affectionate natures, they make excellent family pets.

Terriers

Includes: Jack Russell, Border Terrier, Cairn, Airedale, Miniature Schnauzer, Skye, Bull, and other breeds with the word “terrier” in the name.

Terriers are an extremely high-energy group. Their typical independence and bossiness can make them a challenge to train, but they make up for this sometimes-frustrating tendency by being reliably cheerful, funny, and affectionate companions.

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Dogs in this breed category were bred to hunt and kill quick-moving, ferocious vermin animals (badgers, foxes, ferrets, and so on). Because of this, they have a high prey drive and will chase most small creatures that venture into their yard. They can also be aggressive with other dogs.

Terriers are generally a long-lived group, with few serious genetic defects.

Toy Dogs

Includes: Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Bichon Frise, Toy Poodle, Pug, Chihuahua, Pomeranian

Toy dogs are sometimes referred to as “companion breeds,” as they were bred for the sole purpose of keeping humans company. Toy dogs are usually bright, comical and affectionate, with big personalities.

Toy breeds are also infamous for their difficulty in accepting housetraining rules and regulations. The cause for this inconvenient trait is generally accepted to be a combination of stubbornness and the tiny size of the dogs’ internal organs they’re so small that it can actually be physically difficult for them to control their bladders or bowels for more than a few hours at a time.

These dogs aren’t generally recommended for households with young children, as they don’t take kindly to rough treatment or teasing. In addition, they’re very fragile and can be seriously injured or even killed from being dropped, sat on, or trodden on.

E. Responsible Ownership

Owning a dog is a big responsibility. As well as the general care of your dog, which includes exercise, feeding, and frequent companionship, you must also consider your dog’s behavior both in private and public.

It’s your responsibility as a dog owner to ensure that your pet behaves in an appropriate manner that complies with council bylaws and regulations.

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Your dog is, effectively, an ambassador for other dogs of his breed, and for all dogs everywhere. Every time a dog behaves well in public, it helps to minimize the impact of negative publicity incurred by irresponsible dog owners and their ill-behaved, poorly trained, and inadequately socialized dogs.

The basic message is this: the manner in which your dog is raised and trained doesn’t just matter to you. It matters to every person and animal that your dog encounters throughout his life.

It’s your responsibility to ensure that he is trained, socialized, and taught to behave in a civilized and acceptable manner. Not only will this reflect well on you and other dog owners, but it will help to counteract the increasingly negative views and rules which are being enforced with regard to dogs. Finally, being capable of participating socially can only have a significant and positive effect on your dog’s life.

General Rules for Responsible Ownership:

Register, license, and microchip your dog. Ensure that he wears his collar and tags whenever he’s in public, and preferably at all times.

Socialize him extensively with other dogs and humans from a young ●

age.

Ensure that he receives his shots for rabies, adenovirus, and parvovirus, ●

and that these are kept up to date with regular checkups at the vet. Train him thoroughly in at least basic obedience - this is necessary if ●

your dog is ever to venture beyond your yard. Make sure your property is fully fenced. ●

Clean up after your dog when he relieves ●

himself in a public place.

If your dog begins to exhibit behavioral ●

problems, especially those which may cause irritation or harm to others, take steps to remedy the problem.

Chow Chow make great pets

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F. Review of DOG 101

In this chapter, we looked at some of the issues that surround the initial phases of dog ownership. As a review, the main points that were covered have been outlined below.

Considerations before buying a dog:

How much time you can commit to spending with your dog. ●

The financial implications of ownership. ●

Your physical activity and energy level. ●

Your own personality and what you would like from a companion. ●

Selecting your puppy or dog:

Research the breeds you like before choosing one. ●

Adopt your puppy from a breeder or rescue shelter. ●

Puppies miss out on valuable lessons if they’re taken from their ●

mothers before eight weeks.

Consider your choice of puppy carefully and make sure you understand ●

the trouble that certain behaviors suggest.

Visit the litter several times before making a final choice. ●

Where to Adopt From:

Visit the shelter or breeder and ensure that you’re happy with the level ●

of hygiene and comfort enjoyed by the animals.

Try to meet the puppy’s parents - at least meet the mother, if ●

possible.

Confirm registration of pedigree where applicable. ●

Ask for proof that the puppy’s been cleared of any genetic or other ●

diseases, and that the first set of shots has been administered. Confirm dietary requirements from the breeder or adoption shelter. ●

Follow up with the breeder or shelter if there are problems after ●

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DOG 102: Caring for Your Dog

The arrival of a new dog into the household is an exciting time for everyone concerned. The early days together are likely to be pretty demanding. Suddenly, you’re both thrown headlong into a life together - usually without much of an idea of each other’s personalities!

Where a new dog is concerned, you should always expect the unexpected. Particularly if you’ve never had a dog before, the next few weeks are most likely going to hold some surprises for you.

Getting a dog is a big decision and a big commitment: it’s not every day that you take on total responsibility for another’s health and happiness. The adjustment period isn’t always easy; the sudden change in lifestyle, as well as the inevitable stresses and messes of the first couple of weeks, can be draining.

To prevent these ups and downs from negatively impacting your dog’s homecoming and making the event unduly stressful for either of you, we’ve detailed some tips below on the things you may wish to plan for - both before and during your dog’s first days in your household.

In this section, we’re going to give you some practical advice about the preparations you’ll need to make before bringing your new puppy or dog home. A little bit of forethought will go a long way - it doesn’t take long for the new family member to get into a lot of trouble if you haven’t done your homework! Following the advice detailed below will help you to prevent some of the common problems associated with a dog’s early days in a new house. Preparing yourself, your family, and your house will make the transition as smooth as possible for humans and dogs alike, and will make the whole experience a lot more enjoyable and stress-free for everyone concerned

A. Bringing Your Puppy or Dog Home

The day has finally dawned - it is time for the new family member to move in and get to know everyone properly. However, before you go rushing off in excitement, you need to ensure that everything is just right. Your new pet’s transition to his new home should be as smooth as possible to minimize the trauma for him and frustration for you.

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The course of events during the homecoming itself will set a precedent for your dog’s mindset and emotional balance while she adjusts over the next couple of weeks and months.

Don’t set her up for failure: taking a little bit of time to prepare yourself and your home for her arrival will lessen the likelihood of you getting frustrated or stressed. Your dog takes her emotional cues from you: the happier and calmer you are, the happier and calmer your dog will be.

Getting everything ready and organized for such a life-changing event takes time, so thinking ahead is an absolute must.

Preparing the House

It is important to remember that your new pet will be in an unfamiliar environment and may therefore get in to all sorts of places that may be unsuitable or even downright dangerous. This is a particular concern if you are getting a puppy, as they can fit into places where you would not even think to look!

Making sure your house is adequately puppy-proofed will not only ensure the long-term existence of your more prized possessions, but could also make the difference between life and death for your dog. A lot of tempting chewables around the house - electrical cords, bottles containing cleaners and chemicals, even some houseplants - could seriously harm or even kill your dog. Taking a few minutes before she arrives to scope the house from a puppy’s point of view should help you safeguard both your home and her health.

Remove or hide the more tempting and dangerous items from her reach. Basically, removing anything that could pose a risk should be made safe and secure. Wires should be tacked along the walls or hidden underneath carpet, all cupboard doors should be securely shut, medications and cleaners should be well out of reach, and - lastly - make sure that anything you particularly value is placed off-limits, behind a closed door or above head height!

If you have kids, make sure that all toys - especially small items such as pieces from a board game - are out of the way, as your dog or puppy could swallow these. Even houseplants will need to be moved out of his reach, as they could make your pet sick if he chews them.

You should pre-select an area that is going to be your new dog’s space - somewhere he can seek sanctuary if things get a bit hectic. This is where you should put his toys and bedding. Make sure that you also put some newspaper down around this area in case your dog or puppy has an accident, which could well happen if he is feeling nervous about his new environment.

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Preparing the Garden

The yard poses a whole new array of possible threats for a curious new dog or puppy. Is it completely and securely fenced? Are any plants toxic? Do you fertilize your yard using dog-friendly chemicals? Have you recently sprayed weed killer? Do you ever set snail bait or use rat poison?

Spending a little time now thinking about the hazards that your yard might present to a dog could save you both a lot of grief later on. Plenty of the problems that a dog is likely to encounter outside are both serious and rapid-onset, so prevention is definitely better than a cure!

Firstly, check that there are no holes or gaps in your garden fence. Remember, the gap does not need to be very big for a small pup - he could escape in an instant from a hole that you did not even realize was there.

Secondly, make sure that all garden tools and chemicals are safely locked away in the garden shed, out of your pet’s reach. Also, make sure that you are using only pet friendly products in the garden in case your dog or puppy decides to chew on the grass when he does go out.

SOME COMMON PLANTS THAT ARE TOXIC TO DOGS:

Here is a short list of some of the more common garden plants that are toxic to dogs. Daffodils ● Hyacinth ● Elephant ears ● Poinsettia ● Onion ● Tomato plant ● Most lilies ● Oleander ● Rhododendron ●

This list isn’t complete: there are a lot of plants that are poisonous to dogs. In addition, some dogs have sensitivities or allergies to plants that pose no problem at all to most other dogs. For a complete list, speak to your vet.

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Puppy Shopping

When it comes to puppies, a lot of the time you won’t know you needed a particular item until you need it right then and there!

Plenty of uncomfortable situations can be avoided simply by being prepared - just try taking your puppy to the vet for an emergency visit without a lead (she won’t be admitted into the waiting room) or cleaning a mess off the floor without the correct cleaning agent (it’s virtually impossible!)

If you’ve never had a dog before, it is unlikely that you will have all of the necessary items required to cater for your new pet. There are some things that you will need immediately, such as dishes, food, litter and tray. Therefore, it is a good idea to write a list a week or so before your new pet is due to move in to ensure that you have everything you need at hand. Some of the items on your list should include:

Puppy or dog food

● (the type you buy should be based upon the diet instructions provided by the breeder or vet. Make sure you stick to the food recommended, as changing your pet’s diet before he has even settled in could give him an upset stomach).

Dishes for water and food

● .

Safe dog or puppy toys

● (these will help him settle and take his mind off the move). You can get a variety of toys, some which will be suitable for unsupervised chewing (large rawhide bones, rubber Kong® toys, rope toys, anything durable that can’t have pieces chewed off and swallowed) and some which he can only play with while you’re present (soft toys, rubber bones, smaller rawhide bones, tennis balls, etc).

Carrier/crate

● (you will need this in order to bring your puppy or dog home safely. You will also need it to transport your pet to the vet for check-ups and treatment when required).

Bedding

● : you’ll need at least three or four towels for him to lie down on in the crate, more if possible.

Collar and leash

●

Identity barrel or tag

● : ideally, this should have your dog’s name, your address and phone numbers (home and cellphone, if you’ve got one), and the phone number of your vet.

Items for grooming

● (make sure any shampoos or grooming sprays

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Cleaning agents suitable for use with animals

● : regular cleaning

sprays and detergents aren’t suitable for use on any accidents your dog or puppy might make inside. Most of these contain ammonia, which actually makes the problem worse - and doesn’t remove the smell enough to prevent your dog from “reserving” the area for future toileting.

Not all of these items will be required on the actual day that your dog arrives, but there are some that will be. There is certainly no harm in getting everything in one go, as this will ensure that you have everything you need if and when you need it.

Handling and Grooming

Dogs that aren’t accustomed to being handled, groomed, brushed, and clipped from a young age are usually suspicious of any attempts later in life to keep them looking neat and tidy, and forcing the issue will always result in a frightened, agitated dog - and a stressed-out you!

To avoid this, you need to get your dog used to physical interaction with humans. Get him used to contact all over his body, so that he does not feel alarmed when he has to be handled for grooming or veterinary treatment.

Pick up his paws and hold them in your palms; accustom him to his face and jaws being touched; practice opening his mouth (for very short periods of time!); and rub his tummy. Remember to treat and praise him whenever he allows you to do this. It will keep him relaxed and let him know what you want of him. A simple weekly grooming session will help to keep your dog or puppy clean and fresh, and will enable you to pick up on any potential problems, such as infestations, infections, or injuries. Use grooming time to check your pet’s ears, nose, mouth, and eyes for any signs of discharge, as well as checking his coat and skin for redness and signs of fleas or other parasites. For the best grooming methods see the bonus book “Grooming Made Easy.”

If you have children, you must teach them how to properly handle your new pet. If you have a small pup, incorrect handling could pose the risk of injury. When he is picked up, you should make sure that his whole body is properly supported. Children can have a habit if trying to dangle small pets when they try and pick them up and this should be avoided.

Start Training Early: Deal With Chewing and Biting

Puppies like to chew - on anything readily available! To preserve your possessions and sanity (not to mention safeguard your dog’s health), you need to take steps to prevent this problem as soon as your puppy sets foot in your house.

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Chewing is fine if he is using a proper dog chew or toy, but you may find him trying to bite and chew slippers, shoes, furniture and anything else that crosses his path. This is something you should deal with right away otherwise it could become a serious problem.

Getting your puppy or dog accustomed to ‘house rules’ will provide an effective basis for his training. It will teach him to respect you and your home, and will let him know who is boss. Bear in mind that if you have anything that you really would not like to see chewed - such as that new pair of shoes that cost you a week’s wages - it is ultimately your responsibility to ensure that it is out of harm’s way. Your puppy will not know an expensive shoe from a $2 dog toy from the local pet shop, so the onus is on you.

If you do catch your pet trying to chew or bite on something totally inappropriate, remove the item from him and firmly say ‘No!’ Then redirect him immediately towards an appropriate chew or toy (hand him a tasty alternative). Praise him thoroughly as soon as his jaws close around the new toy.

You must never shout at or smack your pet for chewing on something inappropriate, as you will simply frighten him and make him distrustful. Removing the source of his chewing and being firm but calm will suffice.

Eating Habits and Diet

Changing your dog’s meal times or food type can result in an upset stomach (either vomiting or diarrhea or both.)

There’s also an emotional component to the feeding schedule of your dog: all dogs are happiest when their lives are routine. They like to know when to expect their meals, how much they’re going to be fed, and what kind of food they’re going to get. This regularity helps them to organize their day and to feel more secure about life in general.

If you combine a shift to a new home and owner with a change in feeding routine (whether it’s the type of food or how often meals occur), it’s just putting too much pressure on your dog.

To avoid increasing your dog’s insecurity and nervousness, as well as an unpleasant bout with diarrhea and/or vomiting, you need to maintain the eating schedule and food brand that he had before coming to you,

If and when you do change your pet’s diet it should be done gradually to allow him time to get used to the new tastes and textures, otherwise he may suffer an adverse reaction or even stop eating altogether.