How to Make a patcHwork Quilt:
6
FREE
Designs
for Handmade Patchwork Quilts
Using Jelly Rolls, Strip Quilting,
and More
from
Quilting Arts
3
4
1
inside out Mini Quilt
Malka DUbRawSky
2
Mini Hexagon Quilt
Malka DUbRawSky
3
out of the Dustbin Quilts
annette MoRgan
2
5
6
1
4
a New twist on using Men’s ties in Quilts
Jeannie PalMeR MooRe
5
Hexagon Baby Quilt
Malka DUbRawSky
6
Stacked coins Quilt
H
ere at Quilting Arts®, we love taking new approaches to tried-and-true techniques,which is why we’re thrilled to present this collection of contemporary patchwork projects. Our latest free eBook contains everything from scarves to small quilts, pieced together using materials ranging from modern fabrics to discarded clothing.
First, Malka Dubrawsky shares three small quilting projects that take an innovative spin on the traditional methods of hexagon and log cabin piecing. Those of you who enjoy recycling older fabrics into your work will want to check out Malka’s design for a freeform patchwork scarf that incorporates menswear suiting fabric,
How to Make
a patcHwork Quilt:
6 FREE dEsigns FoR handmadE patchwoRk Quilts using jElly Rolls, stRip Quilting, and moRE
from QuiltiNg artS
eDitorial Director
pokey Bolton
oNliNe eDitorcate prato
creative services
DiviSioN art Director
larissa Davis
pHotograpHerlarry Stein
Projects and information are for inspira-tion and personal use only. interweave Press LLc is not responsible for any li-ability arising from errors, omissions, or mistakes contained in this eBook, and readers should proceed cautiously, espe-cially with respect to technical information. interweave Press LLc grants permission to photocopy any patterns published in this issue for personal use only.as well as Jeannie Palmer Moore’s original method for using neckties in quilts. And if you have any old quilts hanging around that you want to put your own personal stamp on, Annette Morgan offers her advice on how to rework them with surface design, cutting, and re-piecing.
Finally, Aimee Raymond shows you how to use those luscious pre-cut fabrics known as jelly rolls to create a stacked coins quilt.
So whatever your fabric preference and whatever type of patchwork intrigues you most, you’re sure to find something in the following pages that inspires you. It’s time to break into your stash and get sewing!
Pokey Bolton Editorial Director
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quiltingarts.com
Quilting Arts MAgAzine®, P.O. Box 469087, Escondido, CA 92046-9350
Quilting Arts MAgAzine® explores
ideas
, textiles, and techniquesrelated to
embellished and contemporary art quilting
.
Inside,you’ll find design inspiration,
step-by-step
directions, gorgeousphoto graphy, and
motivation
for developing your personal style, atiNSiDe out
mini quilt
ByM
AlkAD
uBrAwskyInternAtIonAl QuIlt festIvAl: QuIlt scene
WInter 2009/2010
t
he inspiration for this quilt happened at my ironing board. I was pressing a log cabin block on the wrong side and was struck by the visual interest created by the raw edges and stitching lines. This prompted me to design a little quilt that celebrates what’s usually hidden. The quilt’s freshness springs from a combination of improvisational piecing; simple, graphic prints and solids; and, of course, the texture of those raw edges.size, such as 8" square. My blocks vary; their unfinished size is approximately 7" × 8".
1. With the wrong sides together, pin the long edge of a print strip to the edge of a center square/rectangle. Maintaining a 1⁄
4" seam allowance,
stitch the pieces together. Press the seam away from the center square. Trim the excess strip length so the fabric is even with the edges of the center square/rectangle.
2. Pin a second strip of print fabric perpendicular to the previously stitched pair, aligning the edges. Stitch together. Press the seam away from the center. Trim any excess strip length.
M A T e R I A l S
Approximate finished size: 20" × 22"
•
cotton or linen scraps of mostly white, graphic prints: 9 squares or rectangles for block centers (cut freehand) and a variety of strips in varying lengths and widths (cut freehand)•
cotton or linen scraps in shades of white and cream: a variety of strips in varying lengths and widths (cut freehand)•
cotton denim for backing, 3⁄ 4 yd.•
cotton print for binding, 1⁄ 4 yd. (cutstrips measuring 11⁄ 2" wide)
•
rotary cutter, clear acrylic ruler, and cutting mat•
iron•
sewing machine•
Machine-quilting thread in white or cream•
Machine sewing thread in orange•
cotton batting measuring about 26" × 28"•
Quilt basting supplies•
PinsD
iREctions
M
aking
thE
blocks
all seam allowances are 1⁄
4". when
piecing the blocks, all fabrics are pieced with the wrong sides together so that the “front” of the quilt top will feature both the raw edges and the right side of the fabrics. all cutting is done freehand (sans ruler) with a rotary cutter.
note: Due to the improvisational method used to piece the blocks, the finished block size will vary. You can add or eliminate strips from a block so that it will be the same size as its neighbor, or use a quilter’s clear acrylic ruler to trim the blocks to a consistent
3. Continuing to work your way around the center, pin a solid strip perpendicular to the pieced trio, aligning the edges. Stitch and press as before. Trim if necessary.
4. Pin a second solid strip
perpendicular to the pieced block, aligning the edges. Stitch, press, and trim if necessary.
5. Continue adding strips
concentrically, alternating pairs of print strips with pairs of solid strips, until the block measures about 8" square.
6. Repeat steps 1–5 to make a total of nine blocks.
P
iEcing
thE
toP
note: In this section the wrong side refers to the non-raw edge side.
1. Using a design wall, arrange your blocks into three rows of three blocks each.
2. With the wrong sides facing, pin the first two blocks together. Maintaining a 1⁄
4" seam
allowance, stitch the blocks together. Press the seam to one side.
3. Pin the third block to the stitched pair along the short edge. Stitch and press as before. You should have a row of three blocks.
4. Pin and piece the remaining blocks into two more rows of three blocks. Press.
5. Pin and piece the rows together. Press all of the seams to one side.
F
inishing
thE
quilt
1. layer the backing fabric
(wrong-side up), batting, and quilt top (right-side up) on a surface.
2. Baste the layers using your preferred method.
3. Machine or hand quilt, using white or cream thread.
4. Trim the layers so they are flush.
5. Sew the binding strips together using diagonal seams, and bind the quilt.
to see more of malka’s work, visit stitchindye.blogspot.com.
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p.o. Box 469087, Escondido, ca 92046-9350
MiNi
hexagon
Quilt
By
M
AlkAD
uBrAwskyAdAptedfrom
InternAtIonAl QuIlt festIvAl: QuIlt scene
WInter 2009/2010
t
his wee hexagon quilt is a great stash-busting project as well as a wonderful opportunity to learn about setting in seams. Unlike many quilt tops involving hexagons, this one is machine pieced rather than hand sewn. Once you get the hang of the technique, it goes together quickly.
D
iREctions
M
aking
thE
tEMPlatE
anD
cutting
thE
FabRic
1. Trace the solid outer line of the hexagon pattern onto paper, cardboard, or template plastic; cut it out to make your template. Also trace the matchpoints at the corners of the hexagon pattern onto your template, and poke a hole at each matchpoint, using either a pin or a tiny hole punch.
2. Using your hexagon template, mark and cut 59 hexagons from the assorted print fabrics, being sure to mark the matchpoints on the wrong side of each fabric hexagon as you go.
3. From the binding fabric, cut 11⁄
2"-wide strips on the bias.
To do this, trim the fabric so that you have at least one straight edge. Align the 45° line marked on your clear ruler along the straight edge of the fabric. Cut the fabric to establish an angled guideline. Use this guideline to cut strips by placing the ruler marking for 11⁄
2"
along this diagonal edge.
P
iEcing
thE
hExagon
Rows
note: All seam allowances are 1⁄ 4". To
set in the seams of the hexagons, the 1⁄ 4"
seam allowance at the corners is not sewn.
1. Pin 2 hexagons, right sides together, so that the marked corners are visible.
2. Starting at one marked corner, machine stitch 2 or 3 stitches, backstitch to the first mark, and
continue forward until you reach the second mark. Backstitch to secure and cut the thread. Press the seam allowance to one side.
3. Start to construct a row by adding a third hexagon to the pair, starting and stopping 1⁄
4" from
the corners and backstitching to secure the seam. Press the seam allowance to one side.
4. Continue adding single hexagons until you have a row of 8
hexagons.
5. Make a total of four 8-hexagon rows and three 9-hexagon rows.
P
iEcing
thE
Rows
togEthER
1. Place one 8-hexagon strip and one 9-hexagon strip on a flat surface so that the 8-hexagon strip is to the left of the 9-hexagon strip (with the strips running vertically).
M A T e R I A l S
Finished size: 19" × 27"
•
assorted cotton and linen prints, each measuring at least 5" square•
Fabric for backing, 1⁄ 2 yd.•
Fabric for binding, 1⁄ 2 yd.•
Paper, cardboard, or template plastic•
rotary cutter, acrylic ruler, and cutting mat•
cotton batting, about 24" × 36"•
Quilt basting materials•
Pins•
Fabric marker•
iron•
sewing machine•
Machine-sewing thread in white or cream•
coordinating hand- or machine-quilting thread•
Hand-sewing needleHexagon Template
interweave Press LLc grants permission to photocopy this pattern for personal use.
2. Place the two hexagon strips with right sides together so the edges to be sewn are aligned.
3. Stitch in between the marked points, remembering to backstitch to secure the seams. Cut the thread.
4. Rotate the hexagons to sew the next pair of edges. Unfold the pressed seam of the bottom hexagon. Starting at the endpoint of the previous seam, sew to the next marked point, remembering to backstitch. Cut the thread.
5. Rotate the hexagons and sew the edge perpendicular to the previous seam, starting at the endpoint of the previous seam, and stitching to the next marked point. Cut the thread.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5, unfolding the pressed seam every other rotation, to sew the entire 8-hexagon strip to the 9-hexagon strip.
7. Place the sewn strips face-down on your ironing board and gently finger-press the seams to one side.
8. Repeat steps 3–7 to attach the remaining 8-hexagon and 9-hexagon strips, one at a time.
F
inishing
thE
quilt
1. Working on a flat surface, layer the backing fabric (wrong-side up), batting, and quilt top (right-side up).
7. lower the presser foot and sew until you reach the next point or corner.
8. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for all corners and points.
note: The stretchiness of the bias-cut binding allows you to maneuver around the shaped edges.
9. Continue stitching until the binding is attached and you’ve joined the beginning and end of the binding strip.
10. Hand stitch the binding to the back side of your quilt, remembering to turn under the
1⁄
4" seam allowance.
enjoy your small hexagon quilt.
2. Baste the top using your preferred method.
3. Machine or hand quilt using coordinating thread. Trim the quilt layers so they are flush.
4. Using diagonal seams, machine stitch the binding strips together.
5. Beginning along one long edge and leaving a 6" tail, stitch the binding strip to the quilt, right sides together, maintaining a 1⁄
4" seam
allowance.
6. Stitch to the matchpoint and sink the needle into the fabric. lift the presser foot, pivot, and adjust the binding and quilt top so that the raw edges continue to fall under the right edge of the presser foot.
out of tHe
Dustbin Quilts
ByA
nnetteM
orgAn AdAptedfrom QuIltIng Arts mAgAzIne december/JAnuAry 2008w
hat do you do with quilts that, in your estimation, have gone wrong? Perhaps you don’t like the color, shape, quilting design, or the fabric you have used. I have a solution, and this is how it came about:eighteen months ago, I had just given a talk about my quilts to a group of enthusiasts. When packing the quilts away, I found some very early ones about a yard in size that
were not really worth keeping (or so I thought). The quilting wasn’t very good, and the appliqué designs were not very sophisticated, so I decided to put two of them in the dustbin. Soon after, a former student of mine phoned with a query about some work, and once the question was settled, she asked what I was up to. On hearing that I had thrown some quilts away, she told me I couldn’t possibly do that and I should retrieve them. I got them “out of the dustbin”
and thought, “Okay, what am I going to do with them now?”
I have always been a rebel, and my students say my motto is “What if?” I like trying new ideas, playing, and experimenting, so after some consideration, I decided to do something extraordinary with those quilts.
I laid them on my worktable and painted them with white emulsion (latex) paint, back and front. I thought this would cover up any
imperfections and I would have a blank canvas on which to work. Initially I loaded the quilt surface with paint, which concealed all the color, but I then discovered that by brushing lightly with the emulsion paint, some of the color near the stitching was retained. I painted half the quilt thoroughly and the other half lightly. This painting highlighted the quilted texture, which I then exploited by dry brushing with acrylic paint once the emulsion paint was dry. I often mix acrylic colors and media together and my favorite color at the moment is turquoise. For these quilts, I mixed the color with an iridescent medium and, using a dry brush, gently brushed it over the surface.
I love designing by collage so once the quilts were dry, I cut them up with my rotary cutter and started to play around with the shapes on my design wall. Once I was happy with the position of the pieces, I joined them together with a decorative, V-shaped embroidery stitch. This is traditionally known as faggoting, but can go by other names; for example, on the Bernina® 1080 it is called a
“gathering stitch.” In order to add further interest, I appliquéd some shapes onto the surface using a zigzag
M A T e R I A l S
•
Discarded quilt•
emulsion (latex house paint) and acrylic paints in desired colors•
Plastic sheeting to protect work surface•
Paintbrushes•
sewing machine and thread•
rotary cutter, mat, and rulerstitch. I was so pleased with the resultant piece that I entered it into a juried show (Contemporary Art Quilts 2006). It was accepted and toured to three different venues in the U.K.
P
ainting
thE
quilt
1. Put on old clothes and shoes and cover a table with plastic sheeting. Place your quilt on the plastic.
2. Open the paint container— sometimes I decant some of the paint into a jam jar to make it more manageable—and start to paint the surface.
3. Paint half the quilt quite densely, getting into all the cracks and crevices. Paint the other half quite lightly to retain some of the color near the stitching.
4. Now turn the quilt over and paint the back thoroughly. The back needs to be painted, otherwise it won’t hang or stitch well. Allow to dry.
note: Drying the quilt may take 24–48 hours, depending on the weather.
5. If you choose to add color, use a dry brush and apply acrylic paint next. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
6. Now is the time to cut up your quilt and reassemble it, but consider the following before cutting:
•
Can you utilize any features of the quilt, such as appliqué, piecing, or quilting patterns? These can be focal points on the new quilt.•
Borders and bindings often make good edges for the square or oblong pieces, or they can be re-used as borders and bindings on the new piece.•
Juxtapose the heavily painted pieces with the lighter painted sections for added interest.M
aking
thE
quilt
1. Using your rotary cutter, mat, and ruler, cut the quilt into sections. The easiest size to work with is 4"–6" squares and similar size oblongs.
2. Consider whether you want a border; if so, allow some cut areas of the painted quilt for this.
3. Play around with the pieces on a design wall or table until you are happy with the placement.
4. Set up your sewing machine with white cotton thread in the bobbin and a colored thread in the needle that matches the tone of the color on the top of the quilt.
5. Take 2 squares and butt the edges together so that the corners meet; place them under the presser foot. Using a zigzag or a faggoting stitch, sew the pieces together, making sure you reverse stitch at the beginning and end of the faggoting to secure the ends. Because of the stiffness of the fabric and the fact you are butting the edges together, it is difficult to pin the pieces together, so you have to do this by eye and hand.
6. Sew strips of squares and oblongs and then stitch the strips together, butting the edges as you go along, square to square.
7. In order to make a border, you can butt a strip around the edge and stitch as before (see option a below), but I think if the quilt
is put onto the border strips and machine appliquéd in place (option b) it makes the quilt stronger.
a) Cut 2 strips the same length as the top and bottom of the quilt and attach the strips to the edges of the quilt, using the faggoting stitch. Then cut strips to the length of the sides and stitch them in place the same way. Because the edges of the quilt are raw, you can trim the edges after stitching.
b) Cut strips larger than the size of the quilt and arrange them in a border pattern on a table, overlapping the strips at the corners. Place the quilt on top of this border, arrange it until it is pleasing, and then pin it in place— long quilting pins are useful here. Using a zigzag stitch, sew the quilt down onto the border, and stitch the corners of the quilt, also with a zigzag stitch.
8. Stitch a sleeve and label to the back of the quilt.
to see more of annette’s work, visit annettemorgan.co.uk.
men’s ties
iN
quilts
ByJ
eAnnieP
AlMerM
ooreAdAptedfrom
QuIltIng Arts mAgAzIne
december 2008/JAnuAry 2009
o
ver a year ago, while visiting my sister, she asked me to help her drag out a large wicker chest from her studio. Her friend Tita had dropped it by in hopes that its contents could be put to good use in our art quilts. One by one we pulled out hundreds of very retro, bright, colorful, beautiful, stunning, and hilarious men’s ties. (Tita’s father was an interior designer and he had left quite a collection.)Suddenly, I was presented with this wonderful array of fabrics that needed to be tastefully designed and assembled into a quilt. We had ties with stripes in all colors and patterns; large and small paisleys, polka dots, outrageous solids with patterning, geometrics, and houndstooth check to name only a few. Normally, I dye my own quilting fabrics, so this was quite a challenge. We first sorted the ties by color, and then again to get a nice combination of solids and prints with darks and lights.
Sometimes the fabrics in ties can be a little overpowering, so
“Wildfire” • 211⁄2" × 17" • “This was my first quilt done entirely of ties. I was drawn toward the bag of red ties primarily because, at the time, we had just survived another wildfire evacuation. Quilting was my way of getting back to our normal way of life. I sewed the strips of ties in a vertical fashion to simulate the flames climbing up and over our hillsides. Free-motion stitches of flames and smoke cover the quilt, and the tags outline the curves of the hillside.”
“Black & White” • 20" × 22
1⁄"2
M A T e R I A l S
•
White cotton fabric and white silk for the quilt background•
Black and white ties•
Fabric paints•
Paintbrushes•
stamps•
sewing machine•
Needle-felting machine•
silver thread•
Fibers: roving, yarn, silk cording, cheeseclothI was thinking that they might need to be combined with other fabrics. My first thoughts were focused on how I could rip the ties apart and reassemble them so that they no longer looked like just ties in a quilt. The tie fabric could be cut in squares or any other shape, or torn into strips and woven or sewn together. The wool ties could be needle felted. I soon discovered that there were many possibilities. Obviously, the nice wide ties give you the most yardage, but
some of the skinnier ones were quite stunning.
The most time-consuming part of this project was ripping the ties apart. But that’s when I discovered even more inspiration: the interesting labels. If these ties could talk, each one would most definitely tell a story. Incorporating the labels was clearly another design element to consider. even though I already had all of these neatly sorted bags of ties, I decided
to visit my local thrift store and see what else was out there. I discovered a whole batch of black-and-white ties that I immediately purchased to add to my collection.
M
ixED
MEDia
with
tiEs
(See “Black & White” quilt on page 21.)
1. From your white cotton and silk, cut a total of 4 squares that will be pieced together to make the background “canvas.” (Determine the cutting size based on your desired finished quilt size.) I used 2 cotton and 2 silk squares.
2. Stitch the 4 squares together by machine to make one big square.
3. Paint and stamp the white squares with fabric paints.
“Tie Sampler” • 131⁄2" × 12" • “I love to explore and experiment so I was excited to see that it was possible to attach ties, labels, organza, roving, silk cording, and cheesecloth with only a needle-felting machine and no thread. I created the tuxedo ruffle by needle felting down the middle of a strip of organza. The only thread I used was to attach the shirt collar buttons for a finishing touch.”
tips
FoRcREating withmen’s ties
•
Look for contrast and texture when picking out ties for a project. solid ties of the same hue don’t work as well together.•
Use a seam ripper to disassemble the tie. You’ll get the most yardage from your tie by opening it up and pressing it flat.•
save the tags!•
The coarsely woven lining from each tie can be needle felted.•
Wool ties are great for needle felting; silk ties snag but can be combined with organza or cheesecloth.•
take frequent breaks while working to view the quilt sideways or upside down. This is a good time to check the contrast of your lights and darks, values, and composition.4. Arrange pieces of the ties on your pieced background and appliqué them in place.
5. Mask off different areas and add hand-written text. I used a Thermofax® screen I had made.
6. Free-motion stitch all over to hold the layers of your quilt in position and to keep your quilt from “shrinking” while you needle felt. (I was excited to see how the silver
thread for my free-motion stitching complemented the black and white.)
7. Needle felt as desired. I needle felted parts of the wool ties along with roving, yarn, silk cording, and cheesecloth.
Now snatch up some old ties and start quilting before ties become obsolete!
to see more of jeannie’s work, visit jpmartist.com.
iNSiDe out
baby quilt
traditional meets contemporary with string piecing
By
M
AlkAD
uBrAwskyAdAptedfrom
InternAtIonAl QuIlt festIvAl:
o
ne of the simplest ways to make a traditional block feel fresh and modern is to radically change its proportions. I can think of few blocks more associated with traditional quilting than Grandmother’s Flower Garden, a pattern of hexagons usually painstakingly pieced using the english Paper Piecing method. To give this design a contemporary feel, I divided each hexagon into three supersized string-pieced sections, with the strings cut freehand using a rotary cutter. The strings lend a scrappy quality but don’t diminish the quilt’s overall modern sense because the palette is limited to shades of orange for the hexagons and gray for the background diamonds. Finally, I coordinated the color of the binding strips to the edges of the quilt. The result is a shaped baby quilt that can function as a scrap-busting project while packing a powerful visual punch.D
iREctions
note: All seam allowances are 1⁄ 4".
M
aking
thE
tEMPlatEs
anD
cutting
thE
FabRic
1. enlarge the template patterns and trace them onto paper, cardboard, or template plastic; cut them out to make templates. label the templates A and B.
2. From the assorted orange fabrics, freehand cut 90 or more strips that measure at least 11⁄
2" × 10", using
the rotary cutter as you would draw with a pencil. Don’t worry about exact measurements, and aim for a variety of widths; the number of strips you will need depends on the widths.
3. From the assorted gray fabrics, freehand cut 35 or more strips
that measure at least 11⁄
2" × 12".
Again, don’t worry about exact measurements and aim for a variety of widths.
M
aking
thE
hExagon
blocks
1. Gather 4–5 orange strips and place them side-by-side on a table to determine the desired arrangement.
(Figure 1) Position Template A
on top of the strips to determine if you will need additional strips. (Remember to take seam allowances into consideration.)
2. Sew the long edges of 2 strips together. Press the seam to 1 side. Repeat to add the remaining strips. Press.
3. Place the pieced fabrics right-side up on a cutting mat. Position Template A on top. (Figure 2)
M A T e R I A l S
Approximate finished size: 36" × 36"
•
assorted cotton and linen prints and solids in orange (i used about 25 different orange fabrics. if you are using scraps, note that the pieces must measure at least11⁄
2" × 10". You will be freehand cutting
90 or more strips of approximately this size—see step 2.)
•
assorted cotton and linen prints and solids in gray (i used about 17 different gray fabrics. if you are using scraps, note that the pieces must measure at least 11⁄2" × 12". You will be freehand cutting
35 or more strips of approximately this size—see step 3.)
•
coordinating cotton fabric for backing, 1 yd.•
6 orange bias-cut strips for binding, each 11⁄2" × 10"
•
6 gray bias-cut strips for binding, each 11⁄2" × 20"
•
cotton batting, crib size•
Paper, cardboard, or clear plastic for making templatesUsing a rotary cutter, cut out the
1⁄
3-hexagon shape. (Figure 3)
4. Repeat steps 1–3 to make 2 more shapes.
5. Arrange the (3) 1⁄
3-hexagon
shapes to form a hexagon. (Figure 4) Pin sections 1 and 2 along
their common edge, with the right sides facing. Sew the pieces together, stopping 1⁄
4" from the
center corner. Press the seam toward section 1.
6. Align and pin the common edges of pieces 2 and 3. Sew from the outer corner, stopping 1⁄
4" from
the center.
7. Cut the thread. Align and pin the common edges of pieces 1 and 3. Start 1⁄
4" from the center and
sew the seam. Press the seams to either direction.
8. Repeat steps 1–7 to make a total of 7 orange hexagon blocks.
P
iEcing
thE
hExagons
togEthER
1. Pin the center hexagon block and 1 outer hexagon block together along the common edges. (Figure 5) Start 1⁄
4" from a corner and sew
the blocks together, stopping 1⁄ 4"
from the opposite corner. Press the seam toward the center block.
2. Pin a third hexagon block to the sewn pair along the common edges. Starting 1⁄
4" from the first
outer corner, sew toward the center, stopping 1⁄
4" from the
center. Cut the thread and realign the pieces to sew from the center to the outer corner. Start 1⁄
4" from
the center and sew to 1⁄ 4" from
the outer corner. Press the seams toward the center block. (Figure 6)
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to attach 3 additional hexagon blocks.
(Figure 7) For the final block,
align the block with the sewn section along the first common edge. Start 1⁄
4" from the outer
corner and sew toward the first corner, stopping 1⁄
4" from the first
interior corner. (Figure 8)
4. Cut the thread and realign the final hexagon block and the sewn section along the next common edge. Starting 1⁄
4" from the first
corner, sew toward the second interior corner, stopping 1⁄
4" from
the second interior corner.
5. Cut the thread and realign the final hexagon block and the sewn section along the last common edge. Starting 1⁄
4" from the second
interior corner, sew toward the outer corner, stopping 1⁄
4" from
the outer corner. Press the seams toward the center block.
Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 Outer Hexagon Block Center Hexagon Block Common edges Outer Hexagon Block Center Hexagon Block Sewn seam First outer corner Second outer corner Figure 6 Figure 5
M
aking
thE
DiaMonD
blocks
note: I made 2 different types of string-pieced diamonds. In 4 of the diamonds, the strings run the width of the diamond, while in 2 the strings run the length. This is strictly a personal preference. Whether you choose to have the strings run the length, width, or both, make sure the string-sewn section is large enough to accommodate diamond Template B.
1. Arrange 5–7 gray strips of varying widths on a table to decide on the placement. Position Template B on top of the strips to determine if additional strips are necessary (consider seam allowances).
2. Sew and press the strips together as you did for the orange strips.
3. Place Template B on top of the sewn strips, and trim the sewn strips to the diamond shape.
4. Repeat steps 1–3 to make a total of 6 string-pieced diamonds.
P
iEcing
thE
DiaMonDs
to
thE
hExagons
1. Working with 1 diamond at a time, align the first common edge of the diamond and the hexagon. (Figure 9)
note: The outer diamond corners
should extend beyond the edges by 1⁄ 4".
You may find it helpful to mark the 1⁄ 4"
seam allowance on the wrong side of the diamond.
2. Start at the outer corner and sew toward the center, stopping 1⁄
4"
from the center.
3. Cut the thread. Realign the second common edges of the diamond and hexagon. Start 1⁄
4" from the center
and sew to the outer corner.
4. Repeat steps 1–3 to add the remaining diamonds.
q
uilting
thE
layERs
1. Working on a flat surface, layer the backing fabric (wrong-side up), batting, and quilt top (right-side up).
2. Baste the layers together using your preferred method.
3. Machine or hand quilt using coordinating thread. Remove the basting as you work. I
free-motion quilted, working from the quilt center in concentric circles spaced about 1⁄
4" apart.
4. Trim the layers so they are flush.
a
DDing
anD
PiEcing
thE
binDing
1. With the right sides together, center an orange binding strip along 1 orange edge of the quilt.
note: A strip tail several inches long should extend beyond each end of the orange section.
2. Sew the center 2" of the strip to the quilt top.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the remaining orange strips, and then repeat with the gray strips.
4. Working with a pair of adjacent gray and orange strips, abut the strips at the quilt seam. Fold the strips back at 45° angles in opposite directions. (Figure 10)
Finger crease the folds.
5. Unfold both strips and, with the right sides together, match the creased lines. Sew the strips together along the creased lines. Trim the seam allowance to 1⁄
4" and
finger press it open.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 to sew all of the remaining binding strips together.
7. Finish sewing the binding to the quilt top and join the ends of the binding strips.
8. Hand stitch the binding to the back of your quilt, remembering to turn under the 1⁄
4" seam allowance.
to see more of malka’s work, visit stitchindye.com.
Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9 Figure 10
First common edge First common edge
template B
cu t A l o n g d o t t e d l I n etemplate a
cu t A l o n g s o l I d l I n eInterweave grants permission to photocopy these patterns for personal use.
Enlarge pattern 120%
D
iREctions
1. Arrange the jelly roll strips in an order that is pleasing to you.
2. Join all of the strips, long sides together.
3. Square up your newly constructed piece by trimming off all selvedges. Using the sewn seams as the straight horizontal lines, cut (8) 5" strips from this piece, squaring up the edge after each cut.
4. From each 5" strip, connect the bottom coin to the top coin, forming a fabric tube. Repeat for all of the strips except 1.
5. Chose a spot to rip out a seam from each fabric tube. You are turning the fabric tube back into a column of coins, but by choosing which seam to release, you are choosing a new coin to be at the top of each column. This will make each column of coins different and help spread color throughout the design.
6. Assemble your solid color sashing strips by connecting 2 strips at the short, 5" ends. Make 9 sashing strips.
7. Sew a coin strip to a sashing strip. Repeat this for all of the coin and sashing pairs. Keep in mind that the sashing should be on the outsides of the final quilt.
tip: Sew these with the coin strip on the top so you can control the seam allowances as they pass under the needle.
8. Connect all coin and sashing pairs. Use several pins to ensure that the coins are lined up correctly.
tip: Complete your quilt top in 2 parts, then sew the parts together last. This reduces the weight of the quilt dragging from the needle, which is easier on your machine and increases your accuracy.
9. Piece your backing fabric if necessary; layer, baste, quilt, and bind.
to see more of aimee’s work, visit saltmarshdesigns.blogspot.com
StackeD coiNS
quilt
t
he colored blocks in thistraditional quilt pattern resemble a stack of coins. Using a precut jelly roll makes this project fast and simple for any skill level.
By
A
iMeer
AyMonDAdAptedfrom
101 pAtchWork proJects + QuIlts
2011