3406 Adjust Trobleshooting

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Product: GEN SET ENGINE

Model: 3406 GEN SET ENGINE 75Z

Configuration: 3406 GENERATOR SET ENGINE 75Z00001-UP

Testing and Adjusting

3406 & 3406B GENERATOR SET ENGINES

Media Number -SENR2537-02 Publication Date -01/03/1988 Date Updated -11/10/2001

Testing And Adjusting

Introduction

NOTE: For specifications with illustrations, make reference to Specifications For 3406 And 3406B

Generator Set Engines, Form No. SENR2536. If the Specifications in Form SENR2536 are not the same as in the Systems Operation and the Testing And Adjusting, look at the printing date on the back cover of each book. Use the Specifications given in the book with the latest date.

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting can be difficult. The TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX gives a list of possible problems. To make a repair to a problem, make reference to the cause and correction on the pages that follow. This list of problems, causes and corrections will only give an indication of where a possible problem can be, and what repairs are needed. Normally, more or other repair work is needed beyond the recommendation in the list.

Remember that a problem is not normally caused only by one part, but by the relation of one part with other parts. This list is only a guide and cannot give all possible problems and corrections. The

serviceman must find the problem and it source, then make the necessary repairs.

1. Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On. 2. Engine Will Not Start.

3. Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough. 4. Stall At Low rpm.

5. Sudden Changes In Engine rpm.

6. Engine With Dashpot Governor Is Slow To Correct Speed Or Hunts (Changes Speed

Constantly).

7. Not Enough Power. 8. Too Much Vibration. 9. Loud Combustion Noise. 10. Valve Train Noise (Clicking). 11. Oil In Cooling System.

12. Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine. 13. Fuel Consumption Too High.

14. Loud Valve Train Noise. 15. Too Much Valve Lash.

16. Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free. 17. Oil At The Exhaust.

18. Little Or No Valve Clearance. 19. Engine Has Early Wear.

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20. Coolant In Lubrication Oil. 21. Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke. 22. Too Much White Or Blue Smoke. 23. Engine Has Low Oil Pressure.

24. Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil. 25. Engine Coolant Is Too Hot.

26. Exhaust Temperature Is Too High. 27. Starter Motor Does Not Turn. 28. Alternator Gives No Charge.

29. Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular. 30. Alternator Charge Rate Is Too High.

31. Alternator Has Noise.

32. Rack Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine.

Problem 1: Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On Probable Cause:

1. Battery Has Low Output:

Make Reference to Item 27.

2. Wires Or Switches Have Defect:

3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:

4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:

5. Inside Problem Prevents Engine Crankshaft From Turning:

If the crankshaft cannot be turned after the drive equipment is disconnected, remove the fuel nozzles and check for fluid in the cylinders while the crankshaft is turned. If fluid in the cylinders is not the problem, the engine must be disassembled to check for other inside problems. Some of these inside problems are bearing seizure, piston seizure, wrong pistons installed in the engine, and valves making contact with pistons.

Problem 2: Engine Will Not Start Probable Cause:

1. Starter Motor Turns Too Slow:

Make Reference to Items 27 and 28.

2. Dirty Fuel Filter:

Install new fuel filter.

3. Dirty Or Broken Fuel Lines:

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4. Fuel Transfer Pump:

At starting rpm, the minimum fuel pressure from fuel transfer pump must be 20 kPa (3 psi). If fuel pressure is less than 20 kPa (3 psi), change the fuel filter element. Look for air in the fuel system. If fuel pressure is still low, install a new fuel transfer pump.

5. No Fuel To Cylinders:

Put fuel in tank. "Prime" (remove the air and/or low quality fuel) the fuel system.

6. Bad Quality Fuel:

Remove the fuel from the fuel tank and fuel system. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of the correct clean fuel in the fuel tank. See FUELS FOR CATERPILLAR DIESEL ENGINES, Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7067 and MEASURING DIESEL FUEL API SPECIFIC GRAVITY, Special Instruction Form No. GMG00977.

7. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

8. Shutoff Solenoid Will Not Move To Extended Position:

The solenoid must get electricity to stop the engine. Operate the control for the shutoff solenoid and see if the solenoid makes a noise (clicking sound). If this sound can be heard and the engine will not start, remove the shutoff solenoid. Now see if the engine will start. If the engine starts, the shutoff solenoid is bad. Replacement of the solenoid is necessary.

Problem 3: Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough Probable Cause:

1. Fuel Pressure Is Low:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bad bends in the fuel line between fuel tank and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the fuel transfer pump is 205 kPa (30 psi) for a 3406 or 240 kPa (35 psi) for a 3406B at full load speed.

If fuel pressure is lower than 140 kPa (20 psi) for a 3406 or 170 kPa (25 psi) for a 3406B, install a new filter element. If the fuel pressure is still low, install a new fuel transfer pump.

2. Air In Fuel System:

Find the air leak in the fuel system and correct it. If air is in the fuel system, it will probably get in on the suction side of fuel transfer pump.

3. Leak Or Break In Fuel Line Between Injection Pump And Injection Valve:

Install a new fuel line.

4. Wrong Valve Clearance:

Make adjustment according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

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Run at rpm that causes engine to misfire the most or run the roughest. Then loosen a fuel

injection line nut at the valve cover base for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where a loosened fuel line nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and injection nozzle for that cylinder. Install new parts where needed.

7. Bent Or Broken Push Rod:

Replacement of push rod is necessary.

8. Fuel Has "Cloud Point" Higher Than Atmospheric Temperature ("Cloud Point" = Temperature

Which Makes Wax Form In Fuel.):

Drain the fuel tank, lines, and fuel injection pump housing. Change the fuel filter. Fill the tank with fuel which has the correct "cloud point" and remove the air from the system with the priming pump.

Problem 4: Stall At Low RPM Probable Cause:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bad bends in the fuel line between fuel tank and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system, sticking, binding or defective fuel bypass valve. Check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the fuel transfer pump should be 205 kPa (30 psi) for a 3406 or 240 kPa (35 psi) for a 3406B at full load speed.

2. Idle rpm Too Low:

Make adjustment to governor so idle rpm is the same as given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.

3. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s):

Install new fuel injection nozzle(s).

4. Engine Accessories:

Check engine accessories for damage and correct adjustment. If necessary, disconnect the accessories and test the engine.

5. Defect In Fuel Injection Pump(s):

Install new parts if needed.

Problem 5: Sudden Changes In Engine Speed (rpm) Probable Cause:

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Look for damaged or broken springs, linkage or other parts. Remove the governor. Check for free travel of the fuel racks. Be sure fuel injection pumps are installed correctly. Check for correct governor spring. Install new parts for those that have damage or defects.

Problem 6: Engine With "Dashpot" Governor Is Slow To Correct Speed Or Hunts (Changes Speed Constantly)

Probable Cause:

1. Wrong Adjustment Of "Dashpot" Governor:

Make correct adjustment. Make reference to GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS in Testing and Adjusting section.

Problem 7: Not Enough Power Probable Cause:

1. Bad Quality Fuel:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bad bends in the fuel line between fuel tank and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the fuel transfer pump should be 205 kPa (30 psi) for a 3406 or 240 kPa (35 psi) for a 3406B at full load speed.

3. Leaks In Air Inlet System:

Check the pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restrictions in the air cleaner.

4. Governor Linkage:

Make adjustment to get full travel of linkage. Install new parts for those that have damage or defects.

5. Wrong Valve Clearance:

6. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Fuel Injection Pump(s):

Run at rpm that causes engine to misfire the most or run the roughest. Then loosen a fuel line nut on the injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where a loosened fuel line nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and injection nozzle for that cylinder. Install new parts where needed.

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8. Fuel Setting Too Low:

Make reference to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.

9. Fuel Ratio Control:

Control either needs an adjustment or it is damaged and a new control is needed.

10. Defect In Aftercooler:

Check temperature of inlet and outlet water supply. Remove any external or internal restriction.

11. Turbocharger Has Carbon Deposit Or Other Causes Of Friction: Inspect and repair turbocharger as necessary.

Problem 8: Too Much Vibration Probable Cause:

1. Loose Bolt Or Nut For Pulley Or Damper: Tighten bolt or nut.

2. Pulley Or Damper Has A Defect: Install a new pulley or damper.

3. Engine Supports Are Loose, Worn, Or Have A Defect:

Tighten all bolts that hold engine supports. Install new components if necessary.

4. Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough: Make Reference to Item 3.

5. Fan Blade Not In Balance:

Loosen or remove fan belts and operate engine for a short time at the rpm that the vibration was present. If vibration is not still present, make a replacement of the fan assembly.

Problem 9: Loud Combustion Noise (Sound) Probable Cause:

1. Bad Quality Fuel:

2. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s): Install new fuel injection nozzle(s).

3. Defect In Injection Pump(s): Install new fuel injection pump(s).

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Problem 10: Valve Train Noise (Clicking) Probable Cause:

1. Damage To Valve Spring(s), Locks, Or Broken Or Worn Valve Lifter:

Install new parts where necessary. Broken locks can cause the valve to get into the cylinder. This will cause much damage.

2. Not Enough Lubrication:

Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm, but only a small flow of oil at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those that send oil to the cylinder head.

3. Too Much Valve Clearance:

4. Damage To Bridge For Valves:

Make a replacement of the bridge and make an adjustment as necessary.

Problem 11: Oil In Cooling System Probable Cause:

1. Defect In Core Of Engine Oil Cooler:

Install a new engine oil cooler. Drain and flush cooling system and refill with new coolant.

2. Defect In Spacer Plate Gasket:

Install new spacer plate gasket.

3. Failure Of Cylinder Head Gasket:

Install a new head gasket.

Problem 12: Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine Probable Cause:

1. Failure Of Bearing For Connecting Rod:

Inspect the bearing for the connecting rod and the bearing surface (journal) on the crankshaft. Install new parts where necessary.

2. Damaged Timing Gears:

Install new parts where necessary.

3. Damaged Crankshaft:

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4. Defect In Attachment:

Repair or install new components.

Problem 13: Fuel Consumption Too High Probable Cause:

1. Fuel System Leaks:

Large changes in fuel consumption may be the result. Inside leaks probably will cause low engine oil pressure and an increase in oil level in the engine. Tighten loose connections or make a

replacement of the component that leaks.

2. Fuel And Combustion Noise (Knock):

Make Reference to Item 3 and Item 6.

4. Wrong Or Poor Quality Fuel:

Problem 14: Loud Valve Train Noise Probable Cause:

1. Damage To Valve Spring(s):

Make replacement of parts with damage.

2. Damage To Camshaft:

Make replacement of parts with damage. Clean engine thoroughly. If replacement of camshaft is made, new valve lifters are also necessary.

3. Damage To Valve Lifter:

Clean engine thoroughly. Make a replacement of the damaged valve lifters. Inspect camshaft cams (lobes) for damage. Look for valves that do not move freely. Make an adjustment to valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

4. Damage To Bridges For Valves Or Bridge Dowel:

Make a replacement of the bridge and/or bridge dowel, and adjust as necessary.

Problem 15: Too Much Valve Lash Probable Cause:

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Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm, but only a small flow at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those that send oil to the cylinder head.

2. Rocker Arm Worn At Face That Makes Contact With Bridge:

If there is too much wear, install new parts or rocker arms. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

3. Worn Bridge Or Bridge Dowel For Valves:

Make replacement of the bridge and/or bridge dowel, and adjust as necessary.

4. End Of Valve Stem Worn:

If there is too much wear, install new valves. Make adjustment to valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

5. Worn Push Rods:

If there is too much wear, install new push rods. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

6. Broken Or Worn Valve Lifters:

Install new valve lifters. Check camshaft for wear. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stem. Clean engine thoroughly. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

7. Worn Cams (Lobes) On Camshaft:

Install a new camshaft. Install new valve lifters if damaged. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stems. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

Problem 16: Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free Probable Cause:

1. Broken Locks:

Broken locks can cause the valve to get into the cylinder. This will cause much damage..

2. Broken Valve Spring(s):

Install new valve spring(s).

3. Broken Valve:

Replace valve and other damaged parts.

Problem 17: Oil At The Exhaust Probable Cause:

1. Too Much Oil In The Valve Compartment:

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2. Worn Valve Guides:

Reconditioning of the cylinder head is needed.

3. Worn Piston Rings:

Inspect and install new parts as needed.

Problem 18: Little Or No Valve Clearance Probable Cause:

1. Worn Valve Seat Or Face Of Valve:

Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

Problem 19: Engine Has Early Wear Probable Cause:

1. Dirt In Lubrication Oil:

Remove dirty lubrication oil. Install new oil filter elements. Put clean oil in the engine.

2. Air Inlet Leaks:

Inspect all gaskets and connections. Make repairs if leaks are found.

3. Fuel Leakage Into Lubrication Oil:

This will cause high fuel consumption and low engine oil pressure. Make repairs if leaks are found. Install new parts where needed.

Problem 20: Coolant In Lubrication Oil Probable Cause:

1. Failure Of Engine Oil Cooler:

Install a new engine oil cooler. Drain crankcase and refill with clean engine oil. Install new oil filter elements.

2. Failure Of Cylinder Head Gasket Or Water Seals:

Check cylinder liner projection. Install a new spacer plate gasket and new water seals in the spacer plate. Install a new cylinder head gasket. Tighten the bolts that hold the cylinder head according to the Specifications.

3. Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Head:

Install a new cylinder head.

4. Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Block:

Install a new cylinder block.

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Replace seals.

6. Crack Or Defect In Cartridge Of Turbocharger:

Install a new turbocharger cartridge.

Problem 21: Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke Probable Cause:

1. Not Enough Air For Combustion:

Check air cleaner for restrictions.

2. Bad Fuel Injection Valve(s):

Install new fuel injection valve(s).

4. Defect In Fuel Ratio Control:

Make adjustment to or install new control.

Problem 22: Too Much White Or Blue Smoke Probable Cause:

1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine:

Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine.

2. Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough:

Reconditioning of cylinder head is necessary.

5. Worn Piston Rings:

Install new piston rings. Check condition of cylinder liners.

6. Failure Of Turbocharger Oil Seal:

Check inlet manifold for oil. Replace seals and repair turbocharger if necessary.

7. Coolant In Combustion System:

Check for cracked head.

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Probable Cause:

1. Dirty Oil Filter Or Oil Cooler:

Check the operation of bypass valve for the filter. Install new oil filter elements if needed. Clean or install new oil cooler core. Remove dirty oil from engine. Put clean oil in engine.

2. Diesel Fuel In Lubrication Oil:

Find the place where diesel fuel gets into the lubrication oil. Make repairs as needed. Remove the lubrication oil that has diesel fuel in it. Install new oil filter elements. Put clean oil in the engine.

3. Too Much Clearance Between Rocker Arm Shaft And Rocker Arms:

Check lubrication in valve compartment. Install new parts as necessary.

4. Oil Pump Suction Pipe Has A Defect:

Replacement of pipe is necessary.

5. Relief Valve For Oil Pump Does Not Operate Correctly:

Clean valve and housing. Install new parts as necessary.

6. Oil Pump Is Worn Or Has A Defect:

Repair or make replacement of necessary parts.

7. Too Much Clearance Between Crankshaft And Crankshaft Bearings:

Check the oil filter for correct operation. Install new parts as necessary.

8. Too Much Clearance Between Camshaft And Camshaft Bearings:

Install new camshaft bearings. Install new camshaft if necessary.

9. Defect In Oil Pressure Gauge:

Install new gauge.

10. Too Much Bearing Clearance For Idler Gear:

Inspect bearings and make replacement as necessary.

Problem 24: Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil Probable Cause:

1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine:

Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine.

2. Oil Leaks:

Find all oil leaks. Make repairs as necessary.

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Check operation of engine oil cooler. Clean the core of the engine oil cooler. Install new parts if necessary.

4. Too Much Oil In The Valve Compartment:

Look at both ends of the rocker arm shaft. Be sure a plug is in each end of the shaft.

Reconditioning of the cylinder head is necessary.

6. Worn Piston Rings And Cylinder Liners:

Inspect and install new parts as necessary. Reconditioning of the cylinder block may be necessary.

7. Failure Of Seal Rings In Turbocharger:

Check inlet manifold for oil and make repair to turbocharger if necessary.

Problem 25: Engine Coolant Is Too Hot Probable Cause:

1. Restriction To Flow Of Coolant Through Radiator Core Tubes Or Heat Exhanger Lines:

Clean and flush radiator or heat exchanger lines.

2. Restriction To Air Flow Through Radiator:

Remove all restrictions to air flow.

3. Low Fan Speed:

Check for worn or loose fan belts.

4. Not Enough Coolant In System:

Add coolant to cooling system.

5. Radiator Or Expansion Tank Pressure Cap Has A Defect:

Check operation of pressure cap. Install a new pressure cap if necessary.

6. Combustion Gases In Coolant:

Find out where gases get into the cooling system. Make repairs as necessary.

7. Water Temperature Regulators (Thermostats) Or Temperature Gauge Has A Defect:

Check water temperature regulators for correct operation. Check temperature gauge operation. Install new parts as necessary.

8. Water Pump Has A Defect:

Make repairs or replacement of the water pump as necessary.

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Make a reduction to the load.

Problem 26: Exhaust Temperature Is Too High Probable Cause:

1. Air Inlet System Has A Leak:

Check pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restrictions at the air cleaner. Correct any leaks.

2. Exhaust System Has A Leak:

Find cause of exhaust leak. Make repairs as necessary.

3. Air Inlet Or Exhaust System Has A Restriction:

Remove restriction.

Make an adjustment to the timing.

Problem 27: Starter Motor Does Not Turn Probable Cause:

1. Battery Has Low Output:

Check condition of battery. Charge battery or make replacement as necessary.

2. Wires Or Switch Has Defect:

Make repairs or replacement as necessary.

3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:

Install a new solenoid.

4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:

Make repair or replacement of starter motor.

Problem 28: Alternator Gives No Charge Probable Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:

Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of parts with defect.

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3. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:

Install a new rotor.

4. Brushes (if so equipped) Have A Defect:

Install new brushes.

Problem 29: Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular Probable Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:

Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of parts with defects.

3. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:

Install a new alternator regulator.

4. Alternator Regulator Not Adjusted Correctly:

See ELECTRICAL SYSTEM in Testing and Adjusting. Some alternator regulators can be adjusted and some cannot be adjusted.

5. Rectifier Diodes Have A Defect:

Make replacement of rectifier diode that has a defect.

6. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:

Install a new rotor (this applies only to brush type alternators).

Problem 30: Alternator Charge Rate Is Too High Probable Cause:

1. Alternator Or Alternator Regulator Has Loose Connections:

Tighten all connections to alternator or alternator regulator.

2. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:

Install a new alternator regulator.

3. Alternator Regulator Not Adjusted Correctly:

See ELECTRICAL SYSTEM in Testing and Adjusting. Some alternator regulators can be adjusted and some cannot be adjusted.

Problem 31: Alternator Has Noise Probable Cause:

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1. Drive Belt For Alternator Is Worn Or Has A Defect:

Install a new drive belt for the alternator.

2. Loose Alternator Drive Pulley:

Check groove in pulley for key that holds pulley in place. If groove is worn, install a new pulley. Tighten pulley nut according to Specifications.

3. Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For Alternator Are Not In Alignment:

Make an adjustment to put drive belt and drive pulley in correct alignment.

4. Worn Alternator Bearings:

Install new bearings in the alternator.

5. Rotor Shaft Is Bent:

Make a replacement of the rotor shaft.

6. Rectifiers In The Alternator Are Shorted:

Make a replacement of the diode assembly.

Problem 32: Rack Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine Probable Cause:

1. Electrical Connections Are Not Correct:

Correct electrical connections and wiring.

2. Not Enough Plunger Travel:

Make an adjustment to the plunger shaft or make a replacement of the solenoid if necessary.

3. Wrong Shaft In Plunger:

Install the correct shaft in the plunger.

4. Defect In Solenoid Wiring:

Make a replacement of the solenoid.

Fuel System

3406B New Scroll Fuel System

Either too much fuel or not enough fuel for combustion can be the cause of a problem in the fuel system. Many times work is done on the fuel system when the problem is really with some other part of the engine. The source of the problem is difficult to find, especially when smoke comes from the exhaust. Smokethat comes from the exhaust can be caused by a bad fuel injection valve, but it can also be caused by one or more of the reasons that follow:

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b. An overload at high altitude.

c. Oil leakage into combustion chamber. d. Not enough compression.

e. Fuel injection timing retarded.

Fuel System Inspection

A problem with the components that send fuel to the engine can cause low fuel pressure. This can decrease engine performance.

1. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Look at the cap for the fuel tank to make sure the vent is not

filled with dirt.

2. Check the fuel lines for fuel leakage. Be sure the fuel supply line does not have a restriction or a bad

bend.

3. Install a new fuel filter. Clean the primary fuel filter.

4. Remove any air that may be in the fuel system. Use the fuel priming pump to move fuel through low

pressure part of the system. Fuel with air will return to the tank through the fuel return line.

To remove air from the fuel injection lines, loosen the fuel line nuts at the through head adapter nozzles 1/2turn. Move the governor lever to the low idle position. Crank engine with the starter motor until fuel without air comes from the fuel line connections. Tighten the fuel line nuts.

NOTE: The fuel priming pump will not give enough pressure to push fuel through the orificed reverse

flow check valves in the fuel injection pumps.

Fuel Transfer Pump

With the engine operating at full load speed, the fuel transfer pump moves fuel through the secondary filter and the fuel injection pump housing at approximately 240 kPa (35 psi).

Fuel Lines (Typical Example) (1) Fuel Inlet.

To check the fuel transfer pump pressure, disconnect the fuel line (from the filter) at the fuel injection pump housing inlet (1). Install a tee at inlet (1), and connect the fuel line to the tee. Connect a pressure gauge to the tee and start the engine.

Minimum fuel pressures must be 70 kPa (10 psi) at low idle and 170 kPa (25 psi) at full load speed (and engine under full load).

If the fuel pressure is not above the minimum specifications, stop the engine. Make a replacement of the primary and secondary fuel filters and check to make sure the fuel lines and hoses are not plugged or damaged.

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Start the engine and again check the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is not above the minimum specification, a repair or replacement of the fuel transfer pump is needed.

Checking Engine Cylinders Separately

An easy check can be made to find the cylinder that runs rough (misfires) and causes black smoke to come out of the exhaust pipe.

Run the engine at the speed that is the roughest. Loosen the fuel line nut at a fuel injection pump. This will stop the flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel line is found that makes no difference in engine performance. Be sure to tighten each fuel line nut after the test before the next fuel line nut is loosened. Check each cylinder by this method. When a cylinder is found where the loosened fuel line nut does not make a difference in engine performance, test the injection pump and fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder.

Temperature of an exhaust manifold port, when an engine runs at low idle speed, can also be an

indication of the condition of a fuel injection nozzle. Low temperature at an exhaust manifold port is an indication of no fuel to the cylinder. This can possibly be an indication of a nozzle with a defect. Extra high temperature at an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of too much fuel to the cylinder, also caused by a nozzle with a defect.

The most common defects found with the fuel injection nozzles are:

1. Steel wire brushing of nozzle tip. 2. Orifice wear.

NOTICE

Do not test nozzles unless you have the correct service tools.

Testing Fuel Injection Nozzles

NOTE: FT1743 is a standard fuel line used between the through head adapter and the nozzle. Bend the

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NOTE: For more information on the 5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group, see Special Instruction Form No.

SEHS7292.

5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group

(1) Nozzle assembly. (A) FT1743 Line Assembly. (B) 5P4244 Adapter. (C) 5P4721 Tube Assembly. (D) 2P2324 Gauge 0 to 34 500 kPa (0 to 5000 psi). (E) 5P4146 Gauge 0 to 6900 kPa (0 to 1000 psi). (F) Gauge protector valve for 2P2324 Gauge. (G) FT1384 Extension and 8S2270 Fuel Collector. (H) Gauge protector valve for 5P4146 Gauge. (J) Gauge protector valve (must be in the open position at all times).

5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group

(K) Pump isolator valve. (L) On-Off valve.

NOTICE

Be sure to use clean SAE J967 Calibration Fluid when tests are made. Dirty test fluid will damage components of fuel injection nozzles. The temperature of the test fluid must be 18 to 24°C (65 to 75°F) for good test results.

Nozzle Preparation for Test

Remove seal (3) and carbon dam (2) from the nozzle. Before fuel injection nozzle (1) can be tested, all loose carbon around the tip of the nozzle must be removed with the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush (M).

Removing Carbon Dam

(1) Fuel injection nozzle. (2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal.

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Do not use a steel brush or a wire wheel to clean the nozzle body or the nozzle tip. Use of these tools can cause a small reduction of orifice size, and this will cause a large reduction in engine horsepower. Too much use of the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush will also remove the coating that is on the nozzle for protection.

8S2245 Cleaning Kit

(M) 9S2258 Brass Wire Brush. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool. (P) 8S2250 Nozzle Holding Tool.

Clean the groove for carbon seal dam (2) and the body of the nozzle below the groove with the 8S2258 Brass Wire brush (M). Remove the carbon, but be sure not to use the brush enough to cause damage to the body of the nozzle.

NOTE: A change in color in the area below the groove is normal and does not effect the body of the

nozzle.

8N7006 Fuel Injection Nozzle Shown (4) Bleed screw and seal.

Remove bleed screw and seal (4) from the nozzle.

NOTE: The bleed screw and seal must be removed for all tests except the Bleed Screw Leakage Test.

Test Sequence

NOTE: It is necessary to have an accurate record of the test results for each nozzle that is tested. Make

a record of the result for each nozzle test procedure on Form No. SEHS8144, NOZZLE TEST RECORD. These test sheets are available in a pad of 50 sheets, order one Form SEHS8144.

The fuel Injection Nozzle can not be disassembled for cleaning or adjustment. Do the tests that follow to determine if the nozzle performance is acceptable.

Valve Opening Pressure Test (VOP).Flush the Nozzle.Tip Leakage Test.Orifice Restriction Test.Bleed Screw Leakage Test.

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When fuel injection nozzles are tested, be sure to wear eye protection. Test fluid comes from the orifices in the nozzle tip with high pressure. The test fluid can pierce (go through) the skin and cause serious injury to the operator. Keep the tip of the nozzle pointed away from the operator and into the 8S2270 Collector and FT1384 Extension.

Valve Opening Pressure Test (VOP)

1. Install 5P4721 Tube Assembly (C), 5P4244 Adapter and FT1743 Line Assembly on the tester. 2. Install the fuel injection nozzle on tube (A). Be sure the nozzle is inside FT1384 Extension (G) and

8S2270 Fuel Collector.

Nozzle Ready For Test

(F) Gauge protector valve. (L) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.

NOTICE

Put a shop towel around the upper part of the nozzle to take in any fuel leakage.

3. Close on-off valve (L). Open pump isolator valve (K).

4. Open gauge protector valve (F). Operate the pump to make a slow increase in pressure until the valve

in the fuel injection nozzle just starts to open. Read the maximum gauge pressure at the instant fluid flows from the tip.

NOTE: It is possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to go down fast if the valve makes a noise

(chatters), when it opens. It is also possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to be almost constant when the valve in the fuel injection nozzle opens.

NOTE: The valve in the fuel injection nozzle can be good and still not make noise (chatter), or not

have a very fine vapor (spray) from the orifices in the tip of the fuel injection nozzle during Step 4. If the opening pressure is not within specifications, do not use the fuel injection nozzle again.

Flush The Nozzle

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NOTE: Make sure nozzle extends inside and below the top of FT1384 Extension (G). 2. Operate the pump rapidly for three full strokes.

Tip Leakage Test

1. Remove all fuel from the nozzle tip and body with a clean cloth.

2. Put a clean cloth around the body of the nozzle to take in any leakage from the bleed screw hole and

prevent any fuel leakage to drain down to the tip of the nozzle.

Nozzle Ready For Test

(F) Gauge protector valve. (L) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.

3. Open gauge protector valve (F). Close on-off valve (L). Open pump isolator valve (K).

4. Make and hold for 15 seconds a pressure of 1380 kPa (200 psi) less than the opening pressure

measured in VOP Test and make a note of the number of drops that fall.

5. If the nozzle is not within specifications, DO NOT USE THE NOZZLE. Orifice Restriction Test

1. Close gauge protector valve (F) and on-off valve (L). Open pump isolator valve (K).

2. Point the tip of the fuel injection nozzle into the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension (G). 3. Make a rapid increase in pressure and look at the orifice discharge (shape of discharge).

The discharge must be the same through all six orifices. Any change either vertically or horizontally, is an indication of a bad nozzle.

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Good Nozzle (Use Again)

Typical Discharge For Orifice With A Restriction (Replacement Necessary)

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Typical Discharge With Vertical Distortion (Replacement Necessary)

Bleed Screw Leakage Test

1. Install bleed screw and seal (4) in fuel injection nozzle. Tighten the bleed screw to a torque of 1.8 ±

0.2 N·m (16 ± 2 lb in) with 6V4980 Torque Driver.

NOTICE

Do not tighten the bleed screw more than the torque shown. The bleed screw or seal can be damaged.

2. Put the tip of the fuel injection nozzle down inside the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension

(G).

3. Close on-off valve (L). Open gauge protector valve (F) and pump isolator valve (K).

4. Pump the tester until fuel injection nozzle is full of fluid and the pressure on the gauge is 20 700 kPa

(3000 psi).

NOTE: 15 or 20 strokes of the pump can be necessary for the pressure to get to 20 700 kPa (3000 psi).

5. If there is leakage, replace the sealing washer. Inspect the washer face of the bleed screw for damage,

install a new screw if necessary. Test the nozzle again. If there is still leakage, the fuel injection nozzle must be replaced.

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Installing Carbon Dam

(2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool.

6. If no fuel leakage is found, the fuel injection nozzle is acceptable. Put a new washer (3) on the

nozzle. Install a new carbon dam (2) in nozzle groove with 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool (N).

NOTE: Make sure the correct washer (3) is used when the nozzle assembly is installed.

Fuel Injection Lines

Fuel from the fuel injection pumps goes to the fuel injection nozzles through the fuel injection lines. When fuel injection lines are disconnected or removed, always put caps or plugs on the ends to keep dirt out of the lines. When fuel injection lines are installed, be sure all clamps and dampers are installed in their original location.

Fuel injection lines which are bent, damaged or rubbing can leak and cause a fire. Replace any lines which have damage or leaks that can not be corrected when tightened to the correct torque.

The nuts that hold a fuel injection line to an injection nozzle and injection pump must be tightened to the correct torque. If the nut is loose, fuel will leak from the connection. If the nut is tightened too tight, the inside diameter of the line will become smaller and cause a restriction to the flow of fuel in the line. Use a torque wrench and a 5P144 Fuel Line Socket to tighten the fuel injection line nuts to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb ft).

Be sure the fuel injection line clamps are installed in the correct location. Incorrectly installed clamps may allow the fuel injection lines to vibrate and become damaged. The damaged lines may leak and cause a fire.

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Fuel Injection Lines

(1) Vertical centerline through the number one fuel injection pump.

Be sure the fuel injection line clamps are installed in the correct

locations. Incorrectly installed clamps may allow the fuel injection lines to vibrate and become damaged. The damaged lines may leak and cause a fire.

NOTE: Clamp location dimensions are in reference to a vertical line (1) through the center of the

number one fuel pump outlet. (A) ... 35 ± 13 mm (1.38 ± .51 in.) (B) ... 20 ± 13 mm (.79 ± .51 in.) (C) ... 165 ± 13 mm (6.49 ± .51 in.) (D) ... 174 ± 13 mm (6.85 ± .51 in.)

NOTE: The clamp at dimension (D) is not used on earlier engines.

(E) ... 195 ± 13 mm (7.68 ± .51 in.) (F) ... 329 ± 13 mm (12.95 ± .51 in.) (G) ... 339 ± 13 mm (13.35 ± .51 in.) (H) ... 457 ± 13 mm (17.99 ± .51 in.) (J) ... 529 ± 13 mm (20.83 ± .51 in.) (K) ... 584 ± 13 mm (22.99 ± .51 in.)

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NOTE: The clamp at dimension (K) is not used on later engines.

(L) ... 709 ± 13 mm (27.91 ± .51 in.)

Checking The Plunger And Lifter Of An Injection Pump

NOTE: There are no different size spacers available to adjust the timing dimension of the fuel injection

pumps. If the pump plunger or the lifter is worn, they must be replaced. Because there is no adjustment to the timing dimension possible, there is NO OFF ENGINE LIFTER SETTING PROCEDURE. When there is too much wear on the fuel injection pump plunger, the lifter may also be worn and there will not be good contact between the two parts. To stop fast wear on the end of a new plunger, install new lifters in the place of the lifters that have wear.

Wear Between Lifter And Plunger

Fig. A. Illustrates the contact surfaces of a new pump plunger and a new lifter. In Fig. B the pump plunger and lifter have worn considerably. Fig. C shows how the flat end of a new plunger makes poor contact with a worn lifter, resulting in rapid wear to both parts.

An injection pump can have a good fuel flow coming from it but not be a good pump because of slow timing that is caused by wear on the bottom end of the plunger. When making a test on a pump that has been used for a long time, use a micrometer and measure the length of the plunger. If the length of the plunger is shorter than the minimum length (worn) dimension given in the chart, install a new pump.

Look for wear at the top part of the plunger. Check the operation of the plunger according to the instructions for the Fuel Injection Test Bench.

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Before the 6V7050 Compressor Group is used for the first time, or if the group has been disassembled, make the following adjustment:

1. An injection pump that is to be used for this adjustment (or one that is to be removed or installed)

must have another injection pump installed next to it.

The second injection pump serves as the compressor mounting stud. If there are not two injection pumps next to each other, install two injection pumps without the lifter springs. See Installation Of Fuel Injection Pumps for the correct alignment of the pump at assembly.

Adjustment Of 6V7050 Compressor Group

(A) 6V7015 Clamp. (B) Bracket assembly. (C) 4B2046 Nut. (D) 5M7418 Nut. (E) 2N3476 Screw.

2. Put bracket assembly (B) over one of the pump bonnets.

3. Put the clamp ram on the center of the other injection pump bonnet with screw (E) in contact with the

fuel line seat.

NOTE: The 6V7015 Clamp (A) should not be locked down. 4. Install and tighten nut (D).

5. Adjust screw in or out until the top of bracket assembly (B) just starts to move when the clamp ram is

locked down.

6. Tighten nut (C) to hold screw (E) in position. Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps

NOTICE

Before any parts are removed from the fuel injection pump housing, thoroughly clean all dirt from the housing. Dirt that gets inside the pump housing will cause much damage.

NOTE: The fuel rack must be in the center position before the fuel injection pumps can be removed or

installed. Follow Steps 1 through 3.

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Fuel Injection Pump Housing

(1) 6V4186 Timing Pin. (2) 8S4613 Wrench. (3) 6V7050 Compressor Group. (4) Retainer bushing.

2. Move the governor lever to the SHUTOFF position, and install timing pin (1) as shown.

3. With the timing pin in position, move the governor lever to the high idle position. The fuel rack

makes contact with the timing pin. The fuel rack is now in the center position. Fasten the governor lever in the HIGH IDLE position.

4. Remove the fuel injection line from the pump to be removed and also the fuel injection lines on each

side of the pump to be removed.

There is spring force on the fuel injection pump plunger and barrel assembly. Removal of retainer bushing (4) without the 6V7050 Compressor Group correctly installed can cause bodily injury.

5. Use 8S4613 Wrench (2) to loosen bushing (4) one quarter turn. Do not remove the bushing at this

time.

6. Install 6V7050 Compressor Group (3) on the pump housing over 8S4613 Wrench (2). Lower the

screw in the compressor ram to the fuel line seat before the nut is tightened to hold the compressor group in position. This centers the compressor group.

7. Use 8S4613 Wrench (2) to loosen retainer bushing (4) until it is out of the threads. Slowly raise the

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Fuel Injection Pump Housing (5) 8S2244 Extractor.

8. Remove the 6V7050 Compressor Group and the 8S4613 Wrench. Install 8S2244 Extractor (5) on the

injection pump threads. Carefully pull the pump straight up and out of the pump housing bore. Remove the spacer from the pump housing bore.

Be careful when an injection pump is disassembled. Do not damage the surface on the plunger. The plunger and barrel are made as a set. Do not put the plunger of one pump in the barrel of another pump. If one part is worn, install a complete new pump assembly. Be careful when the plunger is put into the bore of the barrel. When injection pumps are removed from the fuel injection pump housing, keep the parts together so they can be installed in the same location in the housing.

Installation of Fuel Injection Pumps

NOTICE

The fuel rack MUST BE IN THE CENTER POSITION before the correct installation of an injection pump is possible.

1. Put the fuel rack in the center position. Make reference to Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps.

Fuel Injection Pump Installation

(1) 8S2244 Extractor. (2) Pump barrel. (3) Gear segment.

2. Put 8S2244 Extractor (1) on the threads of the fuel injection pump.

3. Make sure the lifter for the pump to be installed is at the bottom of its travel (cam lobe is at its lowest

point).

4. Put the groove in barrel (2) in alignment with the slot (groove) in gear segment (3). 5. Be sure the spacer is in position in the pump housing bore.

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Fuel Injection Pump Housing (Top View) (4) Pin. (5) Dowel.

6. Carefully install the pump straight down into the pump housing bore.

NOTE: The slot (groove) in gear segment (3) must be in alignment with pin (4) in the side of the lifter

and the groove in barrel (2) must be in alignment with dowel (5) in the housing bore.

7. Remove the 8S2244 Extractor. Put the O-ring seal, retainer bushing (9) and 8S4613 Wrench (7) in

position on the top of the injection pump. Install 6V7050 Compressor Group (8).

8. Slowly move the handle of the 6V7050 Compressor Group down to push the injection pump into the

bore.

NOTICE

The handle of the 6V7050 Compressor Group must move smoothly down to the lock position. Do not force the handle if it stops. If the handle does not move smoothly down to the lock position, raise the handle, remove the 6V7050 Compressor Group, and repeat Steps 3 through 8.

9. Put the O-ring seal in position in the pump housing bore. Use the 8S4613 Wrench to install the

retainer bushing.

10. Remove the 6V7050 Compressor Group. Tighten the retainer bushing to 215 ± 15 N·m (160 ± 11 lb

ft)

NOTICE

The bushing must be tightened to the correct torque. Damage to the housing will be the result if the bushing is too tight. If the bushing is not tight enough, the pump will have leakage.

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11. Install the fuel injection lines to the pump and tighten to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb ft). See Fuel

Injection Lines in this section.

Be sure the fuel injection line clamps are installed in the correct

locations. Incorrectly installed clamps may allow the fuel injection lines to vibrate and become damaged. The damaged lines may leak and cause a fire.

12. Remove 6V4186 Timing Pin (6) from the fuel injection pump housing and install the plug.

NOTICE

If one or more of the fuel injection pumps have been installed wrong, it is possible for the engine to run out of control when started. When any of the fuel injection pumps have been removed and installed with the fuel injection pump housing on the engine, take the precautions (steps) that follow to stop the engine if it starts to overspeed (run out of control).

a. Remove the air cleaner pipe from the turbocharger leaving the air inlet open as shown.

Turbocharger Air Inlet Opening

b. Set the governor control at low idle.

Be careful when plate is put against air inlet opening. Due to excessive suction, the plate can be pulled quickly against air inlet opening. To avoid crushed fingers, do not put fingers between plate and air inlet opening.

c. Start the engine, and if engine starts to overspeed (run out of control), put a steel plate over the air

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Stopping The Engine

Finding Top Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston

No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke is the starting point of all timing procedures.

NOTE: On some engines there are two threaded holes in the flywheel. These holes are in alignment

with the holes with plugs in the left and right front of the flywheel housing. The two holes in the flywheel are at a different distance from the center of the flywheel so the timing bolt cannot be put in the wrong hole.

Locating Top Center (Left Side Of Engine)

(1) Timing bolt. (2) Timing bolt location. (3) Storage location.

1. The timing bolt (1) is kept in storage at location (3) and can be installed in either the left side of the

engine at location (2) or in the right side of the engine at location (4). Remove bolts and cover from flywheel housing. Remove the plug from the timing hole in the flywheel housing.

Locating Top Center (Right Side Of Engine) (4) Timing bolt location.

2. Put timing bolt (1) [long bolt that holds cover on the flywheel housing] through the timing hole in the

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engine flywheel in the direction of normal engine rotation until the timing bolt engages with the threaded hole in the flywheel.

Using 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool

(1) Timing bolt. (5) 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool.

NOTE: If the flywheel is turned beyond the point that the timing bolt engages in the threaded hole, the

flywheel must be turned opposite normal engine rotation approximately 30 degrees. Then turn the flywheel in the direction of normal rotation until the timing bolt engages with the threaded hole. The reason for this procedure is to make sure the play is removed from the gears when the No. 1 piston is put on top center.

3. Remove the front valve cover from the engine.

Checking No. 1 Intake And Exhaust Valves

4. The intake and exhaust valves for the No. 1 cylinder are closed if No. 1 piston is on the compression

stroke and the rocker arms can be moved by hand. If the rocker arms cannot be moved and the valves are slightly open, the flywheel must be turned again. Remove the timing bolt and turn the flywheel in the direction of normal engine rotation 360 degrees until the timing bolt can be installed. The No. 1 piston is now in the top center compression position.

Checking Engine Timing With 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group And 8T5301 Diesel

Timing Adapter Group

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8T5300 Timing Indicator Group

(1) 8T5250 Engine Timing Indicator. (2) 5P7366 Cable Assembly. (3) 6V2197 Magnetic Transducer. (4) 5P7362 Cable. (5) 6V2199 and 6V3093 Transducer Adapters. (6) 8K4644 Fuse.

The 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group must be used with the 8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group.

8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group

(7) 5P7437 Adapter. (8) 6V2198 Cable. (9) 5P7436 Adapter. (10) 6V7910 Transducer. (11) 5P7435 Adapter. (12) 6V3016 Washer.

A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected. To avoid personal injury or fire from fuel spray, the engine must be stopped before the fuel line is disconnected.

When checking the dynamic timing on an engine without a mechanical advance, Caterpillar

recommends that the serviceman calculate and graph the dynamic timing on a worksheet like Form No. SEHS8140. These worksheets are available in pads of 50 sheets, order one Form No. SEHS8140. See Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8580, for information required to calculate the timing curve. After the timing values are calculated and plotted, the dynamic timing should be checked with the 8T5300 Engine Timing Indicator Group. To do this, the serviceman must operate the engine from 1000 rpm (base rpm) to high idle and from high idle to 1000 rpm (base rpm). Unstable readings are often obtained below 1000 rpm. He must record the dynamic timing at each 100 rpm and at the specified speeds during both acceleration and deceleration. Then he should plot the results on the worksheet. Inspection of the plotted value will show if the timing is within specifications. See Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580 for information required to calculate the timing.

1. See the Engine Information Plate for the performance specification number and make reference to

the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct timing specifications to use.

2. Make reference to Operation Instructions inside the lid of the 8T5300 Timing Indicator (1) or Special

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The engine must be stopped before the timing indicator group is installed. A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected and a probe must be installed against the flywheel.

Transducer In Position (Typical Example)

(10) Injection transducer. (13) Fuel injection line for No. 6 cylinder.

3. Loosen all fuel line clamps that hold No. 1 fuel injection line, and disconnect fuel injection line (13)

for the No. 1 cylinder at the fuel injection pump. Slide the nut up and out of the way. Put 5P7436 Adapter (9) in its place and turn adapter (9) onto the fuel pump bonnet until the top of the bonnet threads are approximately even with the bottom of the "window" in the adapter.

4. Put the 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11) on the injection transducer (10), and put the end of the 5P7435 Tee

Adapter (11). Install 5P7437 Adapter (7), and tighten to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).

5. Put fuel injection line (13) on top of 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11). Install 5P7437 Adapter (7), and

tighten to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).

6. Remove the plug from the flywheel housing. Install transducer adapter (5) into the hole the plug was

removed from. Tighten only a small amount.

Transducer In Position

(3) TDC magnetic transducer. (5) Transducer adapter.

7. Push magnetic transducer (3) into the pipe adapter (5) until it makes contact with the flywheel. Pull it

back out 1.5 mm (.06 in.) and lightly tighten the knurled locknut.

8. Connect the cables from the transducers to Engine Timing Indicator (1). Calibrate and make

adjustments. For calibration procedure, make reference to Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8580.

9. Start the engine, and let it reach operating temperature. Then run the engine at approximately

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10. Run the engine at the speeds required, and record the timing indicator readings. If the engine timing

is not correct, make reference to Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin Method for static adjustment of the fuel injection pump drive.

Front Of Engine

(14) Access cover for governor and fuel pump drive group.

Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin Method

1. Put No. 1 piston at top center on the compression stroke. Make reference to Finding Top Center

Compression Position For No. 1 PISTON. Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel, and use 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool to rotate the crankshaft clockwise 30° as seen from the flywheel end of the engine.

Fuel Injection Pump (1) Plug (timing pin hole).

2. Remove plug (1) from the fuel injection pump housing.

Timing Pin Installed (2) 6V4186 Timing Pin.

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3. Install 6V4186 Timing Pin (2) in the fuel injection pump housing as shown. Slowly rotate the

crankshaft counterclockwise (as seen from the flywheel end of the engine) until timing pin (2) goes into the groove in the fuel pump camshaft.

4. Put the timing bolt in the timing hole in the flywheel housing. If the bolt can be installed in the

timing hole in the flywheel, the timing of the fuel injection pump is correct.

5. If the timing bolt does not go into the timing hole in the flywheel, the timing is not correct. Do the

steps that follow to adjust the fuel injection pump timing.

Front Of Engine

(3) Access cover for governor and fuel pump drive group.

a. Remove cover (3).

Governor And Fuel Pump Drive Group (4) Bolts.

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b. Loosen four bolts (4).

c. With timing pin (2) installed and the timing bolt removed, turn the flywheel clockwise (opposite the

direction of engine rotation) a minimum of 30 degrees. The reason for this step is to remove play from the timing gears when the engine is put on top center (TC).

d. Tighten bolts (4) evenly to a torque of 3 N·m (27 lb in). This puts a slight clamping force on the gear

for the next step.

e. Turn the flywheel slowly in the direction of engine rotation until the timing bolt can be installed in

the flywheel. The number one piston of the engine is now at top center (TC).

f. Tighten four bolts (4) to a torque of 55 ± 7 N·m (41 ± 5 lb ft). Remove the timing bolt from the

flywheel and timing pin (2) from the fuel injection pump housing.

6. Turn the flywheel clockwise (opposite the direction of normal engine rotation) a minimum of 30

degrees. Now, turn the flywheel in the direction of engine rotation and again check to see that the timing pin will go into camshaft groove (notch) and the timing bolt will go into the flywheel.

7. If the timing is not correct, do the procedure of Steps 5b through 5f again.

8. If the timing is correct, remove the timing bolt from the flywheel and the timing pin from the fuel

injection pump housing. Install cover (3) and plug (1).

Fuel Setting Procedure

6V6070 Governor Adjusting Tool Group

NOTE: If the 8T1000 Electronic Position Indicator Group is used, make reference to Special

Instruction Form No. SEHS8623 for information on the use of the tool group.

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Fuel Injection Pump And Governor

(1) Cover (rack position indicator). (2) Plug (rack centering pin).

1. Remove plug (2) and cover (1) from the fuel injection pump housing.

Indicator And Centering Pin Installed

(3) 6V4186 Timing Pin. (4) 6V6109 Bracket Assembly. (5) 2A0762 Bolt [1/4-20 NC x 15.88 mm (.625 in.)]. (6) 8H9178 Ground Body Bolt [1/4-20 NC x 25.4 mm (1.00 in.)]. (7) 5P4814 Collet. (8) 6V6106 Dial Indicator.

NOTE: If the 8T1000 Position Indicator Group is used instead of the dial indicator, use Step 3 for the

installation of the probe.

2. Install the rack position indicator as follows:

a. Install the 5P4814 Collet (7) on the 6V6109 Bracket Assembly (4).

Slot In Fuel Injection Pump Rack (9) Slot.

b. Position the indicator arm in approximately the middle of its travel to make sure that it will engage in

slot (9) in the rack. Put 6V6109 Bracket Assembly (4) in position on the fuel injection pump housing.

c. Install 8H9178 Ground Body Bolt (6) first. Then install 2A0762 Bolt (5). d. Be sure the indicator arm moves freely.

e. Put indicator (8) in position in collet (7).

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NOTE: The 9S8903 Contact Point will not go through the collet and must be assembled after the

indicator stem has passed through the collet.

g. Tighten collet (7) just enough to hold the dial indicator. 3. Install the rack position probe as follows:

a. Install the 5P4814 Collet (7) on the 6V6109 Bracket Assembly (4).

b. Position the indicator arm in approximately the middle of its travel to make sure that it will engage in

slot (9) in the rack. Put 6V6109 Bracket Assembly (4) in position on the fuel injection pump housing.

c. Install 8H9178 Ground Body Bolt (6) first. Then install 2A0762 Bolt (5). d. Be sure the indicator arm moves freely.

e. Put probe (A) in position in collet (7).

f. Put the 9S8903 Contact Point on the 6V2030 Extension and install on probe (A).

NOTE: The 9S8903 Contact Point will not go through the collet and must be assembled after the

indicator stem has passed through the collet.

g. Adjust probe (A) in collet (7) so that the shaft can be moved through the entire measurement range

without reaching the end of the shaft travel. Tighten the collet.

Probe And Centering Pin Installed

(3) 6V4186 Timing Pin. (4) 6V6109 Bracket Assembly. (5) 2A0762 Bolt [1/4-20 NC x 15.88 mm (.625 in.)]. (6) 8H9178 Ground Body Bolt. [1/4-20 NC x 25.4 mm (1.00 in.)]. (7) 5P4814 Collet. (A) 8T1002 Probe.

4. Remove the shutoff solenoid, if so equipped, or cover and install the 6V6151 Adapter (10).

Position Fuel Injection Pump Rack (10) 6V6151 Adapter. (11) 6V7942 Hook.

5. Move the governor control lever to the "LOW IDLE" position (rotate governor shaft

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6. Install the 6V4186 Timing Pin (3) in the top of the fuel injection pump housing. Push the timing pin in until contact with the fuel rack is made.

7. Use 6V7942 Hook (11) through 6V6151 Adapter (10) to push the sleeve and rack to the "SHUTOFF" position. Make sure timing pin (3) engages in slot (9).

Push Rack To Shutoff

(11) 6V7942 Hook. (12) Servo valve.

8. Move the governor control lever to the "FULL LOAD" position (rotate governor shaft clockwise) and fasten it in this position.

Pull Rack Against Timing Pin (11) 6V7942 Hook. (12) Servo valve.

9. Use the 6V7942 Hook (11) to pull the sleeve and rack [through servo valve (12)] against the timing pin.

Fuel Rack Against Timing Pin

10. Adjust the 6V6106 Dial Indicator (8) in the collet to zero and tighten the collet. Make sure all needles of the indicator are on zero.

NOTE: If the Electronic Position Indicator Group is used, press the ZERO switch on the front panel. This sets the display to zero.

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6V7941 Compressor Assembly (13) Rod.

12. Turn rod (13) in the 6V7941 Compressor Assembly until the knob is approximately 25.4 mm (1.00

in.) away from the compressor body.

NOTE: The 6V7941 Compressor Assembly is used to compress the overfueling spring through the

linkage. The overfueling spring must be compressed to get an accurate fuel setting measurement.

Install The 6V7941 Compressor Assembly

(10) 6V6151 Adapter. (14) 6V7941 Compressor Assembly.

13. Install compressor assembly (14) in adapter (10) as shown.

Static Fuel Setting

(13) Rod (part of 6V7941 Compressor Assembly). (15) 8T500 Circuit Tester. (16) Insulated terminal.

NOTE: Some engines have a torque spring and some do not. Because of this difference, separate

procedures are needed to check and adjust the fuel setting. Be sure to use the correct procedure for the fuel system that is being worked on. The Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche has the

information needed to determine which type of fuel system is on the engine.

Fuel System With a Torque Spring

1. Fasten the clip end of the 8T500 Circuit Tester (15) to insulated terminal (16), and put the other end

to a good electrical ground.

NOTE: If the Electronic Position Indicator Group is used, the built-in continuity tester can be used

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2. Hold the governor control lever in the "FULL LOAD" position (rotate governor shaft clockwise). 3. Turn rod (13) of compressor assembly in (clockwise) until the light in circuit tester (15) goes off and

the dial indicator hands move an additional 2 mm in the negative (-) direction after the light goes out (2 complete revolutions of the large needle on the dial indicator).

NOTICE

DO NOT turn the rod any further in if the rod begins to tighten. Damage to the governor can occur if the rod is turned in further.

NOTE: The static fuel setting (Step 5) and the static full torque setting (Step (6) must be within ± .25

mm of the setting on the Engine Information Plate. If the setting is within ± .25 mm an adjustment is not necessary. If the Engine Information Plate is gone or the FULL TORQUE SETTING is not on the Engine Information Plate, see Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct settings.

4. Remove adjustment screw cover (17) from the rear of the governor housing.

5. Slowly turn rod (13) out (counterclockwise) until the circuit tester light just comes on. This is the

static fuel setting. See the Engine Information Plate or the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct static fuel setting.

NOTE: When the rod is turned out, there can be a small initial movement of the dial indicator hands,

then, they will stop moving while the rod is turned out for approximately another 1 1/2 turns. Now the indicator hands will begin to move again and will follow the turning of the rod until the setting is reached. It is important that the rod be turned slowly so that the rack can follow the governor components.

NOTE: If rod (13) is turned out too fast, a wrong measurement can be read on the dial indicator as the

light comes on. Repeat Steps 3 and 5 to make sure the correct measurement is taken.

6. Continue to turn the rod out until the indicator hand stops moving. Then turn the rod out two

additional turns. Push in on the rack stop collar to make sure it is in the correct position. The new reading on the indicator is the full torque static setting.

This means the torque rise setting is 1.00 mm. An addition of the fuel setting and the torque rise setting is not necessary.

7. See the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct static full torque setting. On later

engines the full torque static setting is on the Engine Information Plate.

8. Determine how much the settings will have to be changed (see examples). Use the chart that follows

(45)

Adjustment Of Governor (17) Adjustment screw cover.

Since "desired setting" is higher than "actual reading," turn adjusting screw out (counterclockwise) approximately 1/4 turn. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.