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© 2011 by the National Apartment Association, 4300 Wilson Boulevard Suite 400
Arlington, VA 22203. All rights reserved. The course materials or any part thereof
may not be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form
or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the National
Apartment Association Education Institute (NAAEI).
NAA retains copyright to the original materials and to any translation to other
languages and any audio or video reproduction, or other electronic means,
including reproductions authorized to accommodate individual requests based on
religious or medical deferments from classroom participation.
DISCLAIMERS
Although NAAEI programs provide general information on apartment
management practices, NAAEI does not guarantee the information offered in its
programs is applicable in all jurisdictions or that programs contain a complete
statement of all information essential to proper apartment management in a given
area. NAAEI, therefore, encourages attendees to seek competent professional
advice with respect to specific problems that may arise. NAAEI, their instructors,
agents, and employees assume no responsibility or liability for the consequences
of an attendee’s reliance on and application of program contents or materials in
specific situations. Though some of the information used in scenarios and
examples may resemble true circumstances, the details are fictitious. Any
similarity to real properties is purely coincidental. Forms, documents, and other
exhibits in the course books are samples only; NAAEI does not necessarily
endorse their use. Because of varying state and local laws and company policies,
competent advice should be sought in the use of any form, document, or exhibit.
POLICY STATEMENT REGARDING THE USE OF RECORDING DEVICES,
AUDIO VISUAL EQUIPMENT, AND OTHER MEANS OF REPRODUCTION OR
RECORDING OF THE “CERTIFICATE FOR APARTMENT MAINTENANCE
TECHNICIANS” MATERIALS
© 2011 National Apartment Association
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
SUBJECT MATTER EXPERTS
The NAA Education Institute wishes to thank the following apartment
industry professionals for contributing their time and expertise to the
rewrite of the Certificate for Apartment Maintenance Technicians:
Paul Rhodes, CAMT
National Maintenance & Safety Instructor
National Apartment Association Education Institute (NAAEI)
Zach Howell
David Jolley
Don Willard
Lead Subject Matter Expert Owner
Caddo Mills, TX Maintenance Consultant Apartment Maintenance Institute
[email protected] P.O. Box 43735
Seven Points, TX 75143 16478 SW Wildlife Haven Ct. 214/628-1448
[email protected] Sherwood, OR 97140 [email protected]
NAAEI would also like to thank the following individuals for their time
and expertise in creating the job task analysis:
Mark Cukro, CAMT II, CAPS Roger Nahrgang
Jim Dormandy Barbara Wells
Boris Halstead Don Willard, CAMT
Tom Katsamas Giulletta Wilson
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Commitment to Multi-Family Industry – HD Supply is a dedicated partner to
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one of the largest and most respected suppliers of maintenance products in the
country.
Knowledge Associates – The multifamily professionals’ business is keeping
your residents satisfied and increasing your net operating income (NOI). Our
business is helping you find solutions to the everyday apartment maintenance
and management problems that impact resident satisfaction and NOI. HD
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Welcome 1
Welcome!
The National Apartment Association Education Institute thanks you for attending today’s
Certifi cate for Apartment Maintenance Technicians (CAMT) course on Plumbing Maintenance
and Repair.
Course Topics
• Your roles and responsibilities in plumbing maintenance and repair • Plumbing basics and terms
• Plumbing safety
• Tools and equipment for plumbing repairs • Shut off valves
• Plumbing pipes and fi ttings • Faucets and sinks
• Garbage disposals • Tubs and showers • Toilets
• Drains • Water heaters
What You’ll Be Doing
• Using your Participant Resource Guide • Watching in-class demonstrations and videos • Having group discussions
• Completing hands-on activities
Ground Rules
• Participate fully.
• Stay with us, both mentally and physically. • Ask questions.
• Share ideas.
• Tell us about your experiences.
You’ll only get out of this class what you put into it, so give everything you can.
1
You Are Here: Plumbing Maintenance and Repair
To set the stage for the course, you and your fellow participants will identify your key roles
and responsibilities as they relate to plumbing maintenance and repair.
Notes from Roles and Responsibilities Discussion:
You Are Here: Plumbing Maintenance and Repair
(continued)
3
Plumbing in an Apartment Building
The plumbing in an apartment building is a gravity/pressure-based system that is made
up of three parts: water supply, water distribution, and waste exit.
Plumbing in an Apartment Building (continued)
Water Heater Water Meter Drain Line Cold Water Supply Line Drain Line Hot Water Supply LineVent Lines Vent Lines
Waste and vent stack Roof Vent
5
Plumbing Safety
Here are the key safety rules to follow when performing plumbing repairs and
maintenance.
Key Safety Rule #1: If Working with
Electricity, Turn the Power Off
If you’re repairing an electric water heater or a garbage disposal, always turn off the power to that area and the electrical appliance. Then use a circuit tester (or multimeter) to make sure the power is off. Never take chances.
Verify everything. Follow Lockout/Tagout Procedures
Safety Rule #2: Wear Personal
Protective Equipment (PPE)
When working with plumbing fixtures and equipment, wear the proper personal protective equipment to protect yourself from bacteria and germs, cuts and scrapes, and burns from the release of hot water or steam. This equipment includes: • Gloves • Eye shields or goggles • Masks to cover your nose and mouth. In addition, wear appropriate footwear. Make sure you have a sturdy shoe with a protective toe box and a non-slip sole, so you won’t slip, trip, or fall in wet areas.
When repairing electrical appliances, always turn off the power to that area and the electrical appliance.
Plumbing Safety (continued)
Safety Rule #3:
Follow Lockout/Tagout Procedures
Lockout/tagout is a safety procedure to make sure that power and energy sources, such as water are electricity, are shut off properly and secured. You’ll use lockout/tagout procedures when doing plumbing maintenance and repairs, particularly when you’re shutting off a key water supply line, or working on an electrical appliance like a water heater.Lockout Devices and Tags
Typical lockout devices that you’ll use include: • Padlocks • Gate and ball valve lockouts • Circuit breaker lockouts • Chains • Cable Lockout tags usually are brightly colored so you can immediately see and identify them. Your company may have lockout/tagout kits they want you to use. Check with your supervisor.
How to Lock and Tag Out
7
Plumbing Safety (continued)
Safety Rule #4:
Know Your Chemicals
Be familiar with chemicals like the solder, adhesives, and solvents you may use while performing plumbing repairs and maintenance. Use Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) to learn about the chemical properties, health hazards, and required personal protective equipment (PPE) you will need. In addition, avoid exposure to sewage by wearing gloves, washing your hands, and decontaminating your equipment after use.
Notes:
Plumbing Safety Discussion
9
Key Tools for Plumbing Repairs
You can complete many plumbing maintenance and repair tasks with the basic hand
tools you probably already have.
Adding a few specialty tools, however, will prepare you for almost anything you
may encounter.
A needlenose pliers has thin jaws for
grabbing small things. A tongue and groove pliers has a
movable handle that lets you adjust the jaws for maximum gripping strength.
The Basic Hand Tools
A ratchet wrench has interchangeable sockets to fit various sizes of nuts and bolts. You use it to tighten and loosen these nuts and bolts. A putty knife will help you scrape away old putty, caulk, or wax from fixtures. An adjustable wrench has a movable
jaw that lets you fit the wrench to many sizes of nuts and bolts.
Slotted and Phillips screwdrivers
can help you with many a plumbing repair task.
Key Tools for Plumbing Repairs (continued)
The Basic Hand Tools
Lockout/tagout kits should be used to identify that a power source, such as a main shut-off valve or circuit breaker, is shut off and secured. Files and emery cloth can be used to smooth the edges of copper or plastic pipe.
A utility knife has a sharp single-edge
razor that can be use to cut a variety of materials.
Other Hand Tool Recommendations:
11
Specialty Plumbing Tools
A pipe wrench has a moveable jaw you can adjust to fit a variety of pipe sizes. You can use it to tighten and loosen pipes, fittings, and large nuts. A propane torch is used to solder fittings to copper pipes. A plunger clears clogs with water and air pressure. A tubing cutter makes straight clean cuts in copper and plastic pipe.
A plumber’s snake is used to clear
clogs in drain lines.
Key Tools for Plumbing Repairs (continued)
Other Specialty Tool Recommendations
Shut-off Valves
What’s the first thing a maintenance technician needs to know about plumbing? The
location and types of shut-off valves in the apartment community, of course!
Introduction
Shut-off valves stop and start the flow of water to the property, building, apartment, and fixtures. Shut off valves can stop the flow of water in the event of a leak or broken pipe.
The main shut-off valve shuts off water to the apartment community. Lockout/tagout procedures should be used to control access to the main shut off valve.
Working with Shut-Off Valves
13
Pipes and Fittings
Plumbing pipes and fittings are made of copper, plastic, and galvanized steel. In this
part of the training, you’ll survey the world of plumbing pipes, and then practice working
with them.
Copper Pipes
Copper pipes are commonly used to supply water to a building—they are durable, do not impart a taste, do not rust, and provide a free flow of water. However, they are considerably more expensive than plastic pipes. Most apartment buildings use 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch diameter copper pipes. Three types of copper pipes are common: • Type M: Thin copper pipe most often used for home plumbing systems. • Type L: Medium-thickness copper pipe required by code for most commercial plumbing systems. • Type K: Thick copper pipe most often used for underground plumbing.Plastic Pipes
Plastic pipes are more and more common for water supply and waste systems. They are less expensive than copper, lightweight, and easy to cut and fit. Three types of rigid plastic are generally found in apartment building plumbing systems: • PVC: Polyvinyl chloride pipes are commonly used for drains, such as sinks, tubs, and showers. • CPVC: Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride pipes are commonly used in water supply systems. • ABS: Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene pipes were commonly used in drain systems, but are no longer code in new installations.Galvanized Steel
Galvanized steel pipes were commonly used in water supply systems in older apartment buildings. Galvanized steel pipe has a thin layer of zinc to reduce corrosion. Still, like galvanized iron pipe, it is more likely to corrode and to become clogged with minerals from hard water than copper or plastic pipe.Other Types of Pipes
Several other types of pipes are used in plumbing systems, including galvanized iron, cast iron, brass, polyethylene (PE), and flexible copper.
How to Cut Copper Pipe
A smooth, straight cut is the first step in making a watertight joint. A tool called a tubing cutter will help you make this clean, smooth cut. 1. Shut off the water to the pipe. 2. Position the tubing cutter (or hacksaw) on the pipe and tighten the knob to allow the blade to just pierce the pipe. 3. Turn the cutter 360 degrees to score the pipe. 4. Tighten the cutter and continue turning until the pipe is cut. 5. Use a round file to file down the sharp edges of pipe.Tool and Maintenance List:
• Tubing Cutter • Round File
Working with Pipes and Fittings
You can do lots of things with pipes and fittings: cut them, solder them, glue them, and
bend them. In this part of the training, you’ll learn how.
Notes:
15
Working with Pipes and Fittings (continued)
How to Solder Copper Pipe
A soldered pipe joint is made by heating a copper or metal fitting until it is just hot enough to melt metal solder. The heat draws the solder into the gap between the fitting and the pipe to form a watertight seal. 1. Shut off water to pipe. 2. Cut pipe and file down sharp edges. (See “How to Cut Copper Pipe.”) 3. Sand the end of the pipe with an emery cloth or wire brush on the outside pipe and inside of the fitting. Then wipe the pipe off. 4. Use a flux brush to paint flux (soldering paste) on the outside end of pipe and inside of the fitting. 5. Insert the fitting snugly onto pipe. 6. Light the torch. The flame should be no more than two inches long. 8. Place end of the solder to the edge of the fitting. If the solder melts, turn off the torch and press the solder all the way around the joint seam. 9. Let the pipe cool and clean off the extra solder. (Some solder will remain.) 7. Heat the fitting and the pipe with the flame. Note: the flame should be roughly 75% on the fitting 25% on the pipe. 7 8 9
Notes:
10. Inspect the joint visually. There should be a smooth, consistent “ring” of solder completely imbedded in the joint around the pipe.Parts List:
- Pipe to be fitted - Fitting (male pipe thread adapter shown)- Flux (solder paste) with brush applicator - Sanding cloth or wire brush
Working with Pipes and Fittings (continued)
How to Glue Plastic Pipe
Plastic pipe is joined with plastic fittings and solvent glue. Use a glue that is made for the type of plastic pipe you’re working with. 1. Shut off the water to the pipe. 2. Cut the pipe and clear off the rough edges with a utility knife. 5. Paint solvent glue over the primer 6. Insert the pipe into the fitting 4. Paint plastic pipe primer on the outside end of the pipe and inside the fitting. 7. Hold for 30 seconds until dry. 3. Sand the end of the pipe with an emery cloth — outside the pipe and inside the fitting — then dry the pipe off. 4 7 2 5 6 3
How to Cut Plastic Pipe
1. Shut off the water to the pipe.2. Position the pipe cutter (or hacksaw) on the pipe at a 90º angle (perpendicular)
3. Squeeze the handles together while rotating the blade around the pipe to begin cutting. 4. Once around the blade has cut into the pipe, continue to squeeze handles together. 5. Use a utility knife to clear off rough edges of pipe.
Note: Plastic pipe can also be cut with a hacksaw or circular saw. All cuts on plastic pipes should be at 90º.
17
Working with Pipes and Fittings (continued)
How to Bend Copper Pipe: Pipe Bender
In some cases you may need to bend copper pipe to ensure a good fit, and to reduce the number of fittings. Use a pipe bender to make sure the pipe is smooth and kink-free. 1. Mark the spot on the pipe you want to bend. 2. Put the pipe into the round channel of the bender. 3. Adjust the block so it sits on the outside of the pipe. 4. Use the levers to bend the pipe around the block until the pipe is at the desired angle. 5. Remove the pipe.
How to Bend Copper Pipe: Bending Spring
Fixing Leaky, Frozen, or Burst Pipes
The title of this page says it all. Let’s get started.
How to Fix Condensation on Pipes
19
Fixing Leaky, Frozen, or Burst Pipes (continued)
How to Fix Leaks in Pipes
Leaks not only waste water, but they can damage a building and lead to mold and mildew problems. You need to identify and fix them right away. Here’s how to fix a leak: 1. Identify the source of the leak. 2. Shut off the water to the pipe. 3. Remove the bad section of pipe. (Or re-solder the fittings, if it’s copper pipe.) 4. Get new fittings to fit on either end of the section under repair. (Fittings should be of the same material and diameter as the existing pipe.) 5. Cut a new section of pipe of the same material and diameter. 6. Make sure the new section fits snugly in place. 7. Solder (copper) or glue (plastic) the fittings to the new section of pipe. 8. Wait for the pipe to cool or the glue to set. 9. Turn on the water and check for leaks. 7 2 5
How to Deal with Frozen Pipes
If water inside the pipes freezes, the flow of water may be blocked and there is a risk of burst pipes. To deal with frozen pipes: 1. Identify the section of pipe that is frozen.
2. Heat the pipe with a hair dryer or heat gun. Do not overheat.
3. Insulate the pipe with neoprene pipe insulation, or use fiberglass insulation held in place with waterproof tape.
Fixing Leaky, Frozen, or Burst Pipes (continued)
How to Deal with Burst Pipes
Burst pipes are usually a by-product of frozen pipes. When water inside the pipes freezes and expands, the pipes can burst and cause serious water damage. If this happens: 1. Shut off water to the pipes using the main shut off valve. 2. Heat the pipe with a hair dryer or heat gun. Do not overheat. 3. Repair or replace the pipe. 4. Insulate the pipe with neoprene pipe insulation, or use fiberglass insulation held in place with waterproof tape. 5. Turn on the water and check for leaks.
Important: To reduce the risk of frozen and burst pipes, insulate water supply pipes that may be exposed to freezing temperatures with neoprene pipe insulation.
Notes:
21
Notes:
Pipes and Fittings Discussion
Faucets and Sinks
Faucets and sinks are the source of many plumbing problems in apartments. There are
many different types of faucets, but they have several things in common: hot and cold
water pipes, a handle, a spout, and an aerator. Aerators add air to the water as it comes
out of a faucet to deliver a strong spray and less splash.
Ball faucets: Ball faucets have one handle set in a rounded top. They are washerless. Disc faucets: Disc faucets have one handle. They are washerless. Cartridge faucets: Cartridge faucets may have one or two handles. They are washerless.
Compression faucets: Compression faucets have two
handles. They use washers and are common in older apartment buildings.
23
Problem
Solution(s)
Low water pressure or erratic water flow from faucet.
Clean aerator. (Page 24.)
Faucet leaks at base or the spout drips. Identify faucet type: Ball, cartridge, disc or compression. Then replace worn part(s). (Pages 25 – 34.)
Leaks continue after worn parts have been replaced. Replace faucet. (Page 35.)
Water under cabinet or on floor. Tighten connections to faucet. Fix leaky sink strainer. (Page 36.)
Seal faucet to counter top with plumbers putty or caulking. (Page 35.)
Common Faucet Problems and Solutions
Most faucet problems relate to the problem of leaking, and are relatively easy to fix,
thanks to the wide range of replacement parts and repair kits available.
The techniques for repair vary, based on the design of the faucet.
Cleaning an Aerator
Aerators can become clogged with minerals from hard water or other sediment. If water
does not flow freely from a faucet, try cleaning the aerator first.
Tools and Materials Needed
25
Repairing a Ball-Type Faucet
If you have a leaking ball-type faucet, replace the springs, valve seats, O-rings, cam,
and cam washer. You may also need to replace the ball if it is worn.
Tools and Materials Needed
Handle
Rounded top
Spout
Cam
Cam washer
Repairing a Ball-Type Faucet (continued)
Ball
Valve seats
Springs
O-rings
27
Repairing a Ball-Type Faucet (continued)
29
Repairing a Leaking Cartridge Faucet
If you have a leaking cartridge faucet, replace the cartridge.
Tools and Materials Needed
Cartridge Retaining Ring Spout O-rings Handle Faucet cap
Repairing a Leaking Cartridge Faucet (continued)
31
Repairing a Disc Faucet
If you have a leaking disc faucet, clean or replace the ceramic disc cartridge.
Tools and Materials Needed
Handle
Top
Seals
Spout
Ceramic disc cartridge (Contains two ceramic discs)
Repairing a Disc Faucet (continued)
33
Repairing a Compression Faucet
Older apartment buildings may have compression faucets, which use washers. If you
have a leaking compression faucet, replace the washers and O-rings. You may also need
to replace the valve seats.
Tools and Materials Needed
Repairing a Compression Faucet (continued)
Handle
O-ring
Washer Stem unit
35
Replacing a Faucet
If the parts of a faucet are worn or broken, replace the faucet and its supply tubes.
Tools and Materials Needed
• Replacement faucet • Two flexible supply tubes (if tubes are not pre-attached to the new faucet) • Plumber’s putty • Tongue and groove pliers • Putty knife • Adjustable wrenches
Safety
Be careful using a putty knife. You may want to wear hand and eye protection.How-to Steps: Replacing the Faucet
1. Shut off water to the faucet. 2. Unscrew (counterclockwise) the nuts connecting the water supply pipes to the faucet. 3. Unscrew (counterclockwise) the lock nuts to faucet. 4. Pull off the faucet. 5. Clean off the area where faucet was mounted. 6. Assemble the new faucet and put putty around base. 7. Insert the faucet and push it down to seal it. 8. Screw (clockwise) the lock nuts to secure the faucet to the sink. 9. Screw (clockwise) the nuts connecting water supply pipes to the faucet. 10. Wipe away the excess putty from base of faucet. 11. Turn on the water and check for leaks.Note: Check putty container to ensure it is safe to use on the surface of the counter, it is NOT safe to use putty, use a silicone caulk to seal the faucet to the counter.
Fixing a Leaky Sink Strainer
If water leaks onto the floor or cabinet under a sink, it may be from a leaky sink strainer
assembly. Here’s how to fix it.
Tools and Materials Needed
37
Notes:
Faucets and Sinks Discussion
Garbage Disposals
Few appliances in the kitchen get as much hard use (and abuse) as a garbage disposal,
also called a garbage disposer. Many residents consider the disposal an essential kitchen
tool, and in this part of the training, you’ll learn how you can keep this appliance in
prime condition.
How a Garbage Disposal Works
A garbage disposal is mounted to the underside of a sink and stores food waste in a hopper chamber, which is just beneath the sink drain in the upper part of the disposal. When the disposal is turned on, the motor spins the flywheel and its attached impellers at almost 2,000 RPM. The impellers throw the food waste against the shredder ring, and together they grind and mash the garbage. Water from the kitchen faucet flushes the mashed food out of the waste discharge outlet and down the drain. In addition, the dishwasher drains through the garbage disposal. The dishwasher outlet hose is connected to the disposal’s dishwasher inlet pipe. To ensure that water drains properly, residents need to run the disposal before they run the dishwasher.
Safety First
When working with garbage disposals, never put your hand down the drain. It is incredibly
dangerous.
39
Garbage Disposals (continued)
Anatomy of a Garbage Disposal
Keeping a Garbage Disposal in Good Working Order
Sometimes, residents need help understanding how to best keep their garbage disposal
in tip-top shape. Consider sharing these tips with them.
• The only things that should go into a garbage disposal are the things that remain after residents have scraped their plates
into the garbage can.
• A good rule-of-thumb to follow is: “When it doubt, throw it out.” Or, if you won’t eat it, neither will your garbage disposal. • Run cold water for about 30 seconds after turning the disposal on.
• Have residents consider running ice cubes in the unit as a means of “cleaning” it. The hard ice chips help knock down the scum layers that build up below the seal and in the grinder wheel.
What Goes Down Garbage Disposals
• Small amounts of leftover food from your plate• Small potato pieces and peelings • Carrot peelings
• Coffee grounds (though some folks say these are not OK)
41
Common Garbage Disposal Problems and Solutions
The most common problems related to garbage disposals relate to loss of electrical
power, a jammed flywheel, or a leak somewhere.
Problem
Solution(s)
Disposal does not turn on, and there is no noise at all • Check service panel for tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse • Press reset switch on bottom of disposal unit • Replace wall switch that turns on disposal • Test wall switch and replace if needed. (Electrical Maintenance and Repair pages 37-39) • If you have tested everything and there is power going to the disposal but it is still not operating, then follow the manufacturers directions and replace the disposal.
Humming sound; blades not turning • Free stuck flywheel. (Pages 42 – 43.)
Disposal leaks • Tighten connections to sink, dishwasher, and drain pipe. (Pages 44 – 46.)
Clogged drain • Clear drain with plunger or snake. (Page 69.)
Caution
Never use chemical drain openers on a garbage disposal. The chemicals can damage the
internal plastic and rubber parts that protect the motor from moisture.
Fixing a Stuck Garbage Disposal Flywheel
Food and other objects can get stuck in a garbage disposal and cause the flywheel to
stick. This can produce a humming sound, because the blades will not turn. It can also
shut off the power to the disposal.
Tools and Materials Needed
43
Fixing a Stuck Garbage Disposal Flywheel (continued)
Fixing a Leaky Garbage Disposal
Leaks can occur at a number of places on a garbage disposal. Let’s look at the three
most common culprits: the sink flange, the connection to the dishwasher, and the
discharge pipe.
Tools and Materials Needed
45
Fixing a Leaky Garbage Disposal (continued)
If
Then
The bolts are loose You may have found the problem. 1. Remount the disposal unit.
2. Turn on the water and then the disposal to check for leaks once again.
The bolts are tight The problem may be caused by faulty plumber's putty. Continue with the steps below. 5. Loosen the bolts and push the sink flange slightly above the sink. 6. Put plumber’s putty evenly into the area between the sink and the sink flange. 7. Tighten the bolts. 8. Clean away the excess putty. 9. Remount the disposal unit. 10. Turn on the water. 11. Turn on the power to the disposal at the service panel. 12. Check for leaks.
Fixing a Leaky Garbage Disposal (continued)
How-to Steps: Fixing a Leak at the Dishwasher Connection
1. Tighten the clamp on the dishwasher hose connected to the dishwasher inlet on the disposal. 2. Turn on the water and then the disposal.3. Check for leaks. Replace the hose if the hose is leaking.
How-to Steps: Fixing a Leak at the Discharge Drain Pipe
Make sure the bolts holding the discharge pipe to the disposal are tight. If they are not, that could be the source of the leak.
If
Then
The bolts are loose You may have found the problem. Turn on the water, the disposal and check for leaks once again.
The bolts are tight The gasket in the discharge drain pipe may be cracked or worn. Replace it, and then check for leaks once again.
Notes:
47
Notes:
Garbage Disposal Discussion
Tubs and Showers
Tubs and showers are a lot like faucets and sinks. They both have hot and cold
water coming into the system. They have spouts (or showerheads). And there is no
single standard.
Showerhead
Cold water pipe
Diverter Hot water pipe
Spout
49
Common Tub and Shower Problems and Solutions
Besides those pesky leaks, the most common problem for tubs and showers is a slow
shower that acts more like a sprinkling can.
Problem
Solution(s)
Shower water comes out slowly or does not come out at all.
• Clean or replace clogged showerhead. (Page 50.) • Repair diverter valve in three-handle faucet. (Page 51.) • Replace tub spout in single- and two-handle faucet.
(Page 52.)
Leaky three handle faucet. • Repair as a cartridge or compression faucet. (Pages 25 – 34.)
Leaky two-handle faucet. • Repair as a cartridge or compression faucet. (Pages 25 – 34.)
Leaky single-handle faucet. • Repair as a ball-type, cartridge, or disc faucets. (Pages 25 – 34.)
Cleaning a Clogged Showerhead
Showerheads can clog from minerals from hard water and other sediment. When water
comes out of the showerhead erratically, the spray and inlet holes need to be unclogged.
Tools and Materials Needed
51
Fixing a Diverter Valve in a Three-Handle Faucet
Here’s how to remove and clean a diverter valve in a three-handle compression faucet.
Tools and Materials Needed
Replacing a Tub Spout
If the shower water is slow or non-existent in a one- or two-handle tub faucet, replace the
tub spout and its diverter lever.
Tools and Materials Needed
53
Notes:
Tubs and Showers Discussion
Handle
Fill valve (ballcock) assembly Fill valve Overflow tube Tank Supply tube Shut-off valve
Toilets
In this part of the training, you’ll review how a toilet works, then learn to troubleshoot and
fix the most common toilet problems.
Anatomy of a Toilet
Float
Chain
Flapper
55
Common Problems and Solutions
“Jiggle the handle!” It’s a common command in many homes—even those of experienced
maintenance technicians.
When it comes to toilets, flushing and “running” seem to be two of the most common
issues. Why else would there be rows of toilet fix-it parts at most hardware stores?
To take care of these two issues, and other toilet plumbing problems, start with the chart
that follows.
Toilet Handles
Problem
Solution(s)
Stiff or sticking handle. • Clean handle and adjust connections. (Pages 57 – 58.) • Adjust chain. (Page 59.)
Loose handle. • Adjust connections. (Pages 57 – 58.)
• Adjust chain. (May need to put chain back on if it came off.) (Page 59.)
Note: It is often cheaper and faster to replace the handle.
Flushing
Problem
Solution(s)
Toilet does not flush. • Check that shut-off valve is open (turned on). • Adjust chain. (Page 59.)
Partial flush. • Adjust chain. (Page 59.)
• Adjust tank water level (Page 60.)
Common Problems and Solutions (continued)
“Running”
Problem
Solution(s)
Toilet runs. • Adjust chain. (Page 59.)
• Check float for leaks. Replace if necessary. • Adjust tank water level. (Page 60.) • Clean, repair or replace fill valve (ballcock) assembly (Pages 61 – 62.) • Clean or replace flapper or flush valve seat. (Pages 63 – 64.)
Condensation and Leaking
Problem
Solution(s)
Water pooling at base of toilet. • Add insulation to reduce condensation. (Page 65.) • Gently tighten tank, fill valve and supply tube nuts. (Do
not overtighten.) (Page 66.)
• Reapply wax seal at toilet base. (Page 67.) • Replace broken toilet.
57
Fixing a Toilet Handle
Toilet handles can become stiff or stick or loose. Here’s how to get them operating
smoothly again.
Tools and Materials Needed
59
Adjusting a Toilet Chain
Toilet chains may become loose or even come off the lift bar. But no worries—just follow
the instructions on this page, and that chain will be back in service soon.
Tools and Materials Needed
• Needlenose pliers
Safety
Wear eye and hand protection. 2. Check that the chain is connected to lift bar with a bit of slack—not too tight, not too loose. Connect hook to “best” link. If the chain is worn or broken, replace it.. • Tip: If you have excess slack, consider removing chain links with a needlenose pliers. 1. Remove the tank cover. 1 2 3 Flush the toilet and check the operation of the chain. Adjust as needed. 3How-to Steps: Adjusting a Toilet Chain
Note: If the toilet has a chainless mechanism, straighten the wire connected to the lift bar.
Notes:
Adjusting the Tank Water Level
The incorrect level of water in the toilet tank can be the cause of two woes: partial
flushing and “running.”
Fortunately, you can easily change the water level by adjusting a toilet part called a
fill valve or ballcock.
Tools and Materials Needed
• Screwdriver
Safety
Wear eye and hand protection.How-to Steps
Several fill valve (or ballcock) mechanisms are common in apartments. To adjust the tank water level: 1. Remove the tank cover. 2. Identify the type of fill valve mechanism in the toilet, then adjust accordingly: • Standard fill valve: Use adjustment screws to adjust the metal rodconnected to the float. Adjusting it up, raises the water level. Adjusting it down, lowers the water level.
• Anti-siphon fill valve: Adjust the angle of metal float arm by turning the
adjustment screw clockwise (to raise the water level) or counterclockwise (to lower the water level).
• Cartridge fill valve: Adjust the water level by raising or lowering the arm
connected to the cartridge. Squeeze the clip on the cartridge and slide the arm down to lower the water level or up to raise the water level.
3. Flush and check operation. Adjust as needed.
Notes:
61
Replacing the Fill Valve
Replacing the fill valve (or ballcock) is a good remedy for most toilet flushing problems.
Here’s how to make the switch.
Tools and Materials Needed
Replacing the Fill Valve (continued)
How-to Steps
1. Shut off the water to the toilet. 2. Remove the tank cover. 3. Flush the toilet to drain the tank, then dry the inside of tank with a sponge. 4. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the supply tube coupling nut and the fill valve mounting nut. 5. Remove the old fill valve assembly. 6. Replace the fill valve assembly. 7. Reconnect the fill valve nut and the water supply tube. 8. Turn on the water to the toilet. 9. Flush the toilet and check its operation. Adjust if necessary. 1 41. Shut off the water to the toilet.
4. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the supply tube coupling nut and the fill valve mounting nut.
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Replacing the Flush Valve and the Flapper
Both flush valves and flappers can get corroded and wear out over time, causing the toilet
to “run.” Here’s how to replace both of these parts.
Tools and Materials Needed
Replacing the Flush Valve and the Flapper (continued)
How-to Steps: Replacing a Flapper
1. Shut off the water to the toilet. 2. Remove the tank cover. 3. Flush the toilet to drain the tank, then dry the inside of the tank. 4. Remove the old flapper. (Disconnect the chain and detach the flapper from the overflow pipe.) 5. Replace the flapper and make sure it sits evenly in the flush valve opening.How-to Steps: Replacing a Flush Valve
1. Shut off the water to the toilet. 2. Remove the tank cover. 3. Flush the toilet to drain the tank, then dry the inside of the tank. 4. Unscrew the water supply tube from the tank with an adjustable wrench. 5. Using a ratchet wrench, unscrew the nuts connecting the tank to the bowl. 6. Remove the tank and turn it upside-down. 7. With a tongue and groove pliers or spud wrench, unscrew the nut to the flush valve. 8. Remove the old flush valve. 9. Replace the flush valve and attach it to the tank. (Do not overtighten.) 10. Replace the tank and attach it to the seat. (Do not overtighten.)Note: It is a good idea to replace the tank to bowl bolts any time this separation occurs.
11. Connect the water supply tube. 12. Turn on the water to the toilet.
13. Flush the toilet and check its operation. Adjust if necessary.
65
Stopping Condensation on a Toilet
Toilet “leaks” may actually be water condensing on the toilet tank. Warm, humid air
condenses on the cold tank, causing water to drip and pool. To fix this problem, insulate
the toilet tank with a toilet tank liner kit.
Tools and Materials Needed
Fixing a Leaky Toilet
Two common causes of a leaking toilet are loose connections and a poor wax seal at the
toilet base. Here’s how to fix both problems.
Tools and Materials Needed
• Adjustable wrench • Sponge • Putty knife • Old rags or towels • Replacement wax ring
Safety
Wear eye, mouth, and hand protection when replacing a wax seal.How-to Steps:
Tightening Toilet Tank Connections
• Gently tighten tank nuts.• Gently tighten the fill valve nut • Gently tighten the supply tube nut.
Caution: Over-tightening may break the toilet.
Notes:
67
Fixing a Leaky Toilet (continued)
How-to Steps: Applying a Wax Seal at Toilet Base
Notes:
Toilets Discussion
69
Drains
Drains—whether in the kitchen sink, shower, tub, or toilet—clog. These can be cleared
quickly and effectively when using the right tools and know-how.
Tools to Clear Clogs
Anatomy of a Shower Drain
Like sinks, showers have drains, drain pipes and traps that get clogged with hair and soap. Most clogs can be cleared easily by removing the drain cover and fishing out clumped hair. But some clogs take a little more work.Drains (continued)
Anatomy of a Sink Drain
Sinks have drains, drain pipes and traps. They often
get clogged with hair, soap, food particles and more. Lift bar
Clevis
Shut-off valve
Drain stopper rod
Shut-off valve
Trap Sink drain line
Drain opening Floor
71
Anatomy of a Tub Drain
Like showers, tub drains, drain pipes and traps get clogged with hair and soap. There are two types of tub drains: pop-up and plunger.
• Pop-up tub drains: Pop-up drains
open and close with a lever that pushes and pulls a metal arm.
• Plunger tub drains: Plunger drains
use a lever that raises and lowers a metal cylinder that opens or closes a drain pipe opening.
Anatomy of a Toilet Drain
Toilets are a form of drain. They often clog in the trap. Most toilet clogs can be cleared with a plunger, although stubborn clogs may require a snake.Drains (continued)
Main waste/vent stack
Drain stopper
Drain line
Trap
Main waste/vent stack
Drain line
Floor
Drain outlet
Trap
Working with Drain Unclogging Tools
Here’s some familiar how-to information on using plungers and plumber’s snakes.
How to Clear a Clogged Drain with
a Plunger
1. Remove the drain strainer or stopper.
2. Sink and tub only: Plug the overflow opening with a wet rag. 3. Partially fill the drain area with water…if there is no standing water. 4. Hold the plunger handle firmly and push straight down several times. Repeat if necessary. 5. Run hot water down the drain.
How to Clear a Clogged Drain with
a Snake
1. Remove the drain strainer. 2. Insert the end of the snake and push into drain opening. 3. Turn hand crank and push farther into drain opening, navigating past the trap. 4. Remove snake and run hot water down the drain.Note: On a tub drain, remove the overflow plate and run the
snake through the overflow opening.
How to Clear a Clogged Toilet with a Snake
1. Push the end of the snake into the drain opening.2. Turn hand crank and push farther into drain opening, navigating past the trap. 3. Remove snake and flush toilet.
73
Fixing a Plunger-type Tub Drain
Now, here are the steps for cleaning and adjusting a plunger-type tub drain.
Tools and Materials Needed
Fixing a Plunger-type Tub Drain (continued)
How-to Steps: Cleaning a Plunger Drain
1. Unscrew the plate that covers the drain lever.2. Remove the cover and the plunger apparatus from the overflow opening. 3. Clean the apparatus with a small wire brush dipped in vinegar.
4. Grease the apparatus with heatproof grease and reinstall it. 5. Test to make sure the drain works. Adjust it if necessary.
75
Fixing a Pop-up Tub Drain
Now, here are the steps for cleaning and adjusting a pop-up tub drain.
Tools and Materials Needed
• Screwdriver • Small wire brush • Vinegar • Heatproof grease
Safety
Wear eye and hand protection.How-to Steps: Cleaning a Pop-Up Tub Drain
1. Raise the lever to open the drain. 2. Remove the drain stopper and rocker arm. 3. Clean hair and debris from the rocker arm with a small wire brush. 4. Remove the plate that covers the drain lever, then remover the entire stopper control apparatus. 5. Remove hair and debris, and clean off any corrosion using a small wire brush dipped in vinegar. 6. Grease the apparatus with heatproof grease and reinstall it. 7. Test to make sure the drain works. Adjust if necessary.Fixing a Pop-up Stopper in a Sink
Many sinks hold water with a mechanical stopper called a pop-up stopper. If the sink
won’t hold water, or if the water in the sink drains too slowly, clean the pop-up stopper,
and if needed, adjust it.
Tools and Materials Needed
• Screwdriver • Small brush
• Replacement gasket (if needed)
Safety
Wear eye and hand protection.
How-to Steps: Cleaning a Pop-up Drain Stopper
1. Under the sink, lift up the drain stopper shaft. 2. Unscrew the shaft nut. 3. Remove the drain stopper shaft from drain pipe. 4. In the sink, take out the drain stopper. 5. Clean the stopper with a small brush. 6. Examine the gasket for damage and replace it if needed. 7. Reinstall the stopper. 8. Reconnect the stopper to the shaft and then reattach the shaft nut. 9. Test to make sure stopper works. Adjust if necessary.How-to Steps: Adjusting a Pop-up Drain Stopper
If the sink doesn’t drain correctly, adjust the clevis:1. Loosen the clevis screw.
2. Move the clevis up or down on the stopper rod to adjust the position of the stopper. 3. Tighten the clevis screw.
77
Fixing a Sink Drain Trap
Every sink has a drain trap. Clogs can occur when soap or hair builds up in this trap.
When that happens, you’ll need to remove the drain trap and clean it.
Tools and Materials Needed
How-to Steps:
Cleaning a Drain Trap
1. Put a towel or drop cloth and a pail under the drain trap. 2. Unscrew the slip nuts on the drain pipe. Loosen them with a tongue and groove pliers, and then remove them with your hand. 3. Remove the trap section over the pail. 4. Clear out the trap section. Use a brush to clean the bend in the trap. 5. Examine the slip nut washers for wear and replace them if needed. 6. Reattach the trap section. Tighten the slip nuts securely. 7. Run the water and check for leaks. 8. Remove the pail and drop cloth.
Notes:
Fixing a Sink Drain Trap (continued)
79
Notes:
Drains and Clogs Discussion
Water Heaters
Water heaters store and heat water for an apartment building. There are two main types
of water heaters: gas and electric. Both are basically the same except that gas water
heaters have a gas burner at the bottom and a flue vent at the top, and electric water
heaters have electric heating elements inside the tank.
In both types of water heaters, cold water comes to the tank from a water supply pipe
and into the tank through the dip tube. The water heater then heats the water to a set
temperature and distributes water on demand through the hot water pipe.
Notes:
81
Water Heaters (continued)
Anatomy of a Water Heater
Cold water pipe (in)
Hot water pipe (out)
Flue (gas only)
Key Parts of a Water Heater
To better understand how a water heater functions, let’s look closer at its key parts.
The Thermostat
The thermostat senses when the tank drops below a certain pre-set temperature and causes the heating element (in an electric water heater) or gas burner (in a gas water heater) to come on.
Electric Water Heaters: Here, the thermostat is like
a switch. The switch is on by default, but when the temperature of the tank rises to a certain point, it expands and pushes a small metal rod against a dimpled piece of metal. That movement breaks the contact in the thermostat
Gas Water Heaters: The thermostat on a gas heater is an
integral part of the gas control valve and is located inside the tank. When the water temperature drops, the thermostat signals the gas control valve to supply gas to the burner. However, before it allows gas to flow, a part called the
83
Key Parts of a Water Heater (continued)
The Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)
All water heaters have a safety device called a temperature and pressure relief valve to let water escape if the water pressure or temperature exceeds the limits of the tank.
To prevent the potential of scalding, the outlet from the T& P valve should be piped to a safe area.
The Dip Tube
The dip tube is a long narrow tube that directs incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank, preventing it from prematurely mixing with the outgoing hot water at the top of the tank. Without the dip tube, or with a broken dip tube, it may seem as if hot water runs out very quickly, or just remains at a lukewarm temperature.
The Anode Rod
Common Water Heater Problems and Solutions
Water heaters are quite reliable, but occasionally, problems do pop up. The most
common issues, unsurprisingly, relate to a shortage (or total lack of) hot water.
Problem
Reason
Solution
No hot water. Electric water heater:
• No power
• Bad heating element • Bad thermostat
Electric water heater:
• Check service panel for tripped breaker or blown fuse. • Replace heating element. (Pages 86 – 88.)
• Replace thermostat. (Pages 89 – 90.)
Gas water heater:
• No gas • Pilot light out
Gas water heater:
• Make sure gas is on. • Relight pilot light. (Page 91.)
Not enough hot water Electric water heater:
• Tank is too small • Thermostat set too low • Sediment in tank • Bad thermostat • Bad heating element
Electric water heater:
• Increase thermostat temperature (be careful!). • Drain several gallons of tank water. (Page 85.) • Add insulation to hot water pipes. (Page 18.) • Replace heating element. (Pages 86 – 88.) • Replace thermostat. (Pages 89 – 90.)
Gas water heater:
• Tank is too small • Thermostat set too low • Sediment in tank • Dirty gas burners • Bad thermocouple
Gas water heater:
85
Draining Water from a Water Heater Tank
Sediment can built up in electric and gas water heaters, and this can prevent the unit
from operating at peak efficiency. Draining three to five gallons of water from the tank
can remove most of the sediment:
Tools and Materials Needed
Electric Water Heaters: Replacing the Heating Element
The most common problem with an electric water heater is a burned-out heating element.
Tools and Materials Needed
87
Electric Water Heaters: Replacing the Heating Element
(continued)
3 1
1. Turn off the power to the water heater at the main service panel.
Electric Water Heaters: Replacing the Heating Element
(continued)
Which Heating Element Has Failed?
Many electric water heaters have two heating elements. To find out which heating element has failed, turn on a hot water faucet and test the temperature.
If the water heater produces water that’s warm, but not hot, replace the top heating element. If the heater produces a small amount of very hot water, followed by cold water, replace the bottom heating element.
Notes:
89
Electric Water Heaters: Replacing the Thermostat
If the heating elements test “good” and the water is still not hot enough,
replace the thermostat.
Tools and Materials Needed
Electric Water Heaters: Replacing the Thermostat
(continued)
How-to-Steps
1. Turn off the power to the water heater. 2. Open the panel to the thermostat. 3. Use a multimeter or circuit tester to make sure power is off. • Touch probes to the top set of terminal screws. • If the meter display shows power, or if the tester light goes on, the power is still on. 4. Disconnect the thermostat wires and label the connections with masking tape. 5. Pull out the old thermostat. 6. Put in the new thermostat. 7. Connect the thermostat wires correctly. 8. Press the reset button on the thermostat. 9. Set the thermostat temperature using a screwdriver. (Check the thermostat setting on the old thermostat. The arrow should point to selected temperature.) 10. Close the panel to the thermostat. 11. Restore the power to the water heater. 99. Set the thermostat temperature using a screwdriver. (Check the thermostat setting on the old thermostat. The arrow should point to selected temperature.)
91
Gas Water Heaters: Lighting a Pilot Light
In a gas water heater, a pilot light burns all the time so it can ignite the main burner when
needed. Here’s how to relight that pilot if it burns out.
Tools and Materials Needed
Gas Water Heaters:
Cleaning Gas Burners and Replacing the Thermocouple
The gas burner heats the water in the tank. The thermocouple monitors the pilot light
and turns off the gas if the pilot light goes off.
If the pilot light goes out and cannot be relit, clean the gas burner and replace the
thermocouple.
Tools and Materials Needed
93
Gas Water Heaters:
Notes:
Water Heaters Discussion
95
Key Takeaways
Plumbing Safety Takeaways
• Follow the correct safety procedures whenever you work with plumbing or electricity. Do not cut corners or take risks. • When repairing an electrical appliance such as a water heater, turn off power to the circuit. Use a circuit tester or multimeter to make sure power is off. • Follow lockout/tagout procedures. • Wear the correct personal protective equipment—in most cases, eye protection and gloves—and wear non-slip soled shoes with a protective toe box. • Call a plumber or an electrician to do work for which you are not qualified.
Plumbing Repair and Maintenance Takeaways
• Use the repair techniques you’ve learned today to improve the speed and quality of your work.
• Do your best to keep up with the latest advances in tools, technology, and techniques as they relate to plumbing maintenance and repair.
• Feel free to use this Resource Guide when you’re back on the job.
Action Plan
Based on what you’ve learned in this course, write down at least one thing you want to
start, stop, and continue doing when you return to your apartment community.
One Thing I Want to Start Doing:
One Thing I Want to Stop Doing:
One Thing I Want to Continue Doing:
97
Notes:
Notes:
NAAEI thanks you for taking this portion of the Certificate for Apartment Maintenance Technicians (CAMT) series.
Handouts from this course, including CAMT Skill Checks and other resources may be downloaded from the NAA Web site by visiting:
www.naahq.org/education/CandidatesOnly
