Identifying inspirations 2016 / 17

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LOOKING FOR THE SOURCE

TO REFRESH OURSELVES

We are faced with new developments at a frantic pace. Science, technology, social and societal changes have a hold on us. They worry us; they make us happy, optimistic or insecure. No matter how we experience them, these are exiting times for those who want to and can comprehend the intensity of the changes. ORIGINS will be an expedition to the source of the inspiration, the mother of all designs.

In search for the source of inspiration, we bring 3 themes: DISRUPTIVE LUXURY

ANCIENT HISTORY HACK THE COLOUR

MoOD

Colour palette 2016 / 17

Introduction

THEME 1

DISRUPTIVE LUXURY

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THEME 2

ANCIENT HISTORY

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Geopolitics and the Perception of Luxury

The 21st century is branded by a schism in the perception of luxury. While glamour is considered an old-fashioned luxury in the rich West, explicit ‘showing off’ is a must in the new boomtowns. These new boomtowns follow the geopolitics. They are formed in places where oil, shale gas and other sources of the black gold are found. Besides Dubai, oil is also found in Perth in Australia, Lagos in Nigeria, Luanda in Angola and Calgary in Canada, and alongside the insatiable hunger for luxury. Despite the enormous differences in the perception of luxury there are many similarities. At any point in time and any place in the world, the focus is on the customer experience. The experience of something unique to which others have no or very limited access.

THEME 1

DISRUPTIVE LUXURY

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Gute Menschen

The ‘share economy’ has created an economy for ‘sharing’. Consider a service like ‘urban ride’ that will help you find a ride in town. You can tip the driver, but you don’t really need to. Still, for most drivers it’s the money that counts. Those who really want to share, return to the original meaning of sharing: call it the trend of ‘Kindness’ or ‘Gute Menschen’, because they are without a doubt good people who give without expecting anything in return. Diego Della Valle, chairman and C.E.O. of Tod’s donated a fortune to the restoration of the Colosseum for the sole reason of saving the Italian cultural heritage and the Italian way of living. Altruistic giving is the new luxury from now on. The real luxury. It’s reflected in soft, round shapes and warm harmonious colours.

MoOD Origins DISRUPTIVE LUXURY

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Ex Machina

Nobody can deny the luxury provided to us by modern day science. Our capacity to rewrite the laws of nature in algorithms that never fail what they are supposed to do is exceeding even our wildest expectations. The Internet of Things (IOT) supplies sensors and machines that communicate tirelessly and control business processes and even creations. The results are authentic and artifi cial at the same time. These new forms of artifi cial creations often serve as a basis for experiments. The machines are also put to work to reproduce traditional handmade products in a contemporary way according to industrial requirements. But luxury cannot exist without emotion. For that reason we need to use the technology where it can be most helpful: to create new materials and shapes, to translate artistic creations to a modern age and particularly to enhance the customer experience.

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Preciousness

The level of refi nement is the standard for luxury. The feather bed of a luxury hotel, the care which has gone into the fi nish of the window covering, the discrete texture of the upholstery and the rarity of the materials, determine whether you have the feeling of being surrounded by luxury or not. Time is of the essence here. Just think about barber shops, with their exclusive, almost sacred treatment of beards and moustaches. It’s no surprise they are conquering men’s hearts again. Preciousness can be in anything actually, even in service, in the packaging and in the communication with the customer.

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Ask a fashion designer about their source of inspirations and it’s always about art, music, travel,… Textile is never mentioned as a source of inspiration. We know that textile creations are influencing the collections more often than not. Velvet for example turned out to be a commercial success and was popular enough to start a real trend. And the same goes for the ‘bonded fabrics’, initially an in-house innovation of the fashion brand Céline, that had a lot of following. Nowadays it’s hard to imagine a world without bonded fabrics: jersey and leather, cotton and fur, and so on. No couturier will deny the importance of fabrics in fashion. Even in interior the trends are often controlled by textile.

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‘Ancient History’ is about preservation through innovation. About rediscovering the (archeological) heritage and using it as a source of inspiration. The bigger the time difference, the more explicit the experience or revival. Whether it’s about archeological finds or 19th century paintings, they stir the imagination with stories without words, vanished colours and forgotten techniques. Hermès is only one of the brands who, together with a local player, Shang Xia, went looking for ancient crafts in China which they could revive. “The best protection for the preservation of craftsmanship is innovation,” is the motto of Chang Xia. They discovered an application with cashmere felt from the nomadic people, but it turned out to be too heavy for modern day use. So they replaced wool with new materials.

MoOD Origins ANCIENT HISTORY

THEME 2

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Historic textiles

Alice Archer, a famous textile designer, turns 19th century paintings into textile. She is working for companies like Dries Van Noten, Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel. Historic textiles are without a doubt her source of inspiration. She is looking for inspiration in the London Victoria & Albert Museum and in Mary Queen of Scots’ needleworks. “I want to evoke the atmosphere of historic and textured embroideries in my designs using modern age technology, allowing the workmanship to be fully industrialised,” she mentions in an interview with the Telegraph.

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Topoi

A topos is a style figure in literature, a cliché, something everybody knows, but of which the origin is often forgotten. In textile design we are also familiar with such topoi. From paisley and tartan to ikat and shibori. They are as trendy today as they were back in the days, and more than ever subject to reinterpretation and innovation.

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Artinsanity

Artinsanity is the concatenation of art, artisanship and a little bit of (in)sanity. Artisanship as the ultimate source of inspiration for the contemporary designers. Slowness, refinement, storytelling and the customer experience are what it’s all about. Rarity is the key. Their maniacal focus on the materials and the production process elevate the craftsman or craftswoman to real stardom. They dream about meaning, involvement and beauty. Their product is merged with the matter and with the makers. Oftentimes their experimental creations will become a new source of inspirations in the perpetual machine of the designer.

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On the crossroads between lo-fi, imperfection and sci-fi, colour stands seemingly by itself as ‘unscripted’, ‘unwritten’ and ‘spontaneous’. Colour however serves both worlds. Be it in a different way. Colour maintains the aura of emotion and pure aesthetics and therefore remains out of reach for many. Others, especially scientists, try to hack the colour. As a result ‘Hack the Colour’ is an attempt to approach colour as a source of inspiration. The beauty of a painting, photo or a work of art, is more often than not defined by the colour pallet. With ‘bad’ and trendy colours and particularly with the effect of the combinations that can sometimes be harmonious, sometimes unusual.

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THEME 3

HACK THE COLOUR

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Colours are engaging with other colours. They form harmony or disruptive incentives. Every colour has a function, like a flower luring insects with beautiful colours. Similarly colour combinations should guide the eyes, influence emotions and evoke an atmosphere of dissonance.

The new trend colours steer clear of the sweet pastel colours. Blue and especially cobalt blue is the colour that calls down dreamers from their clouds, but still carries a halo of mysticism and elevation.

MoOD Origins HACK THE COLOUR

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AWESOME

COMBINATIONS

The optimism in yellow is deflected towards sweet corn yellow, which tends more towards vanilla. The newcomers are often neutral, cream coloured, soft gray, deep or rust brown or olive or petrol green.

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Pink is becoming harder and is used as an accent colour, rather than a statement.

MoOD Origins HACK THE COLOUR

THE MESSAGE

THE COMBO IS

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HACK

THE ARTISTS PALET TE

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CONCEPT, COLOURS & DESIGN

BigFish - creative pool: Niek De Prest, Michel Minne, Soﬁe Cocquyt • www.bigﬁsh-cp.be

Maghalie Dooms, Designer and stylist MOOD CONCERTATION TEAM

Jennifer Castoldi, Chief Creative Director Trendease International

Hannah Malein, Colour Trend Creative, Fabrics & Materials Global Research Mix Publications Catherine Dauriac, CELC Masters of Linen Partner

Milou Ket, Milou Ket Styling & Design

Filip Roscam, Associate Director Design, Performance Materials | Pigments & Cosmetics, Merck KGaA Axel Venn, Prof Colour Design Hochschule angew. Wissenschaft und Kunst, Fak. Gestaltung Hildesheim

ORGANISATION

Patrick Geysels, General Manager MoOD • Christine Lievens, Press & Projects MoOD

Textirama vzw/asbl, Poortakkerstraat 90, BE-9051 Gent, Belgium Phone +32 9 24 38 450 • www.moodbrussels.com