324
Index
A
accommodation 18, 42, 251-68 Aeolian Islands 258-61 Central Sicily 266-7 Ionian Coast 261-4 Mediterranean coast 267-8 Palermo 252-4 Syracuse & the Southeast264-6 Tyrrhenian Coast 256-8 Western Sicily 254-6 Aci Castello 183 Aci Trezza 182-3 Acireale 181-2 activities 35-40, see also
individual activities Aeolian Islands 10, 45, 131-57, 134, 10 accommodation 131 food 131 highlights 134 internet resources 132 itineraries 132 planning 132 Agrigento 13, 235-42, 238, 13 Aidone 227 air travel 17, 311 Akrai 203-5 Albergheria 53-6, 54 Alicudi 157 archaeological sites, see
ruins & archaeological sites
architecture 69-76, 300-2 area codes 309 Area Marina Protetta
Isola di Ustica 21, 83 art 300-2
ATMs 306
B
bargaining 19 Basilica di San Giovanni197
Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro 196-7 Basiluzzo 148 beaches 21
Area Marina Protetta Isola di Ustica 83 Campobianco 138 Canneto 138 Cefalù 118, 120 Eraclea Minoa 243 Falconara 248 Gelso 143 Giardini-Naxos 170 Lampedusa 248 Levanzo 101 Marettimo 102 Oliveri 120 Ortygia 197 Panarea 149 Piscina di Venere 129 San Leone 243 Sant’Agata di Militello 120
Scala dei Turchi 243 Scopello 89 Siculiana Marina 243 Spiaggetta Zimmari 149 Spiaggia Bianca 138 Spiaggia dei Faraglioni
89
Spiaggia della Papesca 138
Spiaggia Fumarola 149 Spiaggia Sabbia Nera
143
Spiaggia Valle i Muria 137-8
Stromboli 154 Syracuse 193 Taormina 168 Torre Salsa 243
bicycle travel, see cycling birdwatching 38 boat travel 17, 312, 313 boat trips Lipari 139 Stromboli 153-4 Syracuse 197 Vulcano 143-4 books 270, 292-4 Bottaro 148-9 bus travel 17, 313 business hours 17, 307 Butera 250
c
Caccamo 15, 120, 15 Cala Bianco 102 Cala Junco 149 Cala Minnola 101 Cala Nera 102 Cala Rossa 100 Cala Sarda 102 Calascibetta 223 Caltabellotta 246 Caltagirone 229-31 Caltanissetta 231-2 Campobianco 138 Canneto 138 canoeing & kayaking 40Giardini-Naxos 170 Marsala 103 Mt Etna 185 San Vito Lo Capo 91 Vulcano 144 Capo 56-7, 54 Capo d’Orlando 128 Capo Grillo 143 Capo Grosso 101 Capo Soprano 250 Cappella Palatina 55, 74 car travel 17, 311-12, 313-15,
see also driving tours, road distances
Carnevale 23, 181-2, 245 Casa Natale di Pirandello
242-3 Castel di Tusa 127 Castelbuono 121-3 Castellammare del Golfo
88-9
Castello dei Ventimiglia 76, 121-3 Castello di Caccamo 76, 120, 76 Castello di Lombardia 76, 220 Castello Eurialo 202 Castello Ursino 175-6 Castelmola 168 castles
Castello dei Ventimiglia 76, 121-3 Castello di Caccamo 76, 120, 76 Castello di Lombardia 76, 220 Castello Eurialo 202 Castello Ursino 175-6 catacombs
Basilica di San Giovanni 197
Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro 196-7 Catacombe dei
Cappuccini 63 Ganzirri 165 Latomia del Paradiso 195 Catania 171-81, 172-3 cathedrals, see churches &
cathedrals Cattedrale di Monreale
74, 80-1
Cattedrale di Palermo 56-7 Cattedrale di San Giorgio
70, 212-13, 12, 71 Cattedrale di San Nicolò 70,
205-6, 71 Cattedrale di Sant’Agata
71, 172 Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
325
in
D
eX
C
-I
caves Cava d’Ispica 212 Grotta del Bue Marino156
Grotta del Cavallo 143 Grotta del Genovese 101 Grotta Rosata 83 Grotta Segreta 83 Orecchio di Dionisio 195 Cefalù 12, 21, 116-19, 117, 12, 21 cell phones 16, 308-9 Central Sicily 46, 216-32, 218-19 accommodation 216 food 216 highlights 218 internet resources 217 itineraries 217 planning 217 Chiaramonte Gulfi 211 Chiesa di San Giorgio
71, 209 churches & cathedrals
Basilica di San Giovanni 197
Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro 196-7 Cappella Palatina 55 Cattedrale di Monreale 80-1 Cattedrale di Palermo 56-7
Cattedrale di San Giorgio 70, 212-13, 12, 71 Cattedrale di San Nicolò
70, 205-6, 71 Cattedrale di Sant’Agata
71, 172
Chiesa di San Giorgio 71, 209 Duomo (Enna) 221 Duomo (Messina) 163 Duomo (Syracuse) 70, 192, 70-1 Duomo di Cefalù 74, 116-17, 74-5 La Martorana 53, 74, 74 Santuario della Madonna
del Tindari 128 Santuario
dell’Annunziata 94 children, travel with 41-3 CIDMA 82 cinema 270, 294-5, 298 climate 16, 23-4 clothing 18 coffee 34 Collesano 125 consulates 304 Corleone 82 costs 17, 251, 304-5 courses cooking 29-30, 200, 209, 231 language 193, 200 credit cards 306-7 culture 288-91 currency 16, see also
money customs regulations 304 cycling 313 Favignana 100 Mt Etna 186
D
da Messina, Antonello 301 dangers 308 Dattilo 148 debit cards 306-7 discount cards 304 diving & snorkelling39-40 Aeolian Islands 39 Bottaro 148-9 Filicudi 156 Lipari 139 Riserva Naturale dello
Zingaro 39, 91 Stromboli 154 Taormina 168 Ustica 39, 82-3 Vulcano 144 driving, see car travel driving licences 311, 312 driving tours 38-9 Enna to Etna 228, 228 Monti Madonie 122, 122 Mt Etna 184, 184 Noto to Chiaramonte 204, 204 Sciacca to Licata 247, 247 Western Sicily 90, 90 Duomo di Cefalù 74, 116-17, 74-5 duty free 304
e
economy 270 Egadi Islands 99-102 electricity 304, 307 Eloro 209 embassies 304 emergencies 17 emigration 291 Enna 220-3, 220-1 Eraclea Minoa 243 Erice 10, 97-9, 97, 11 etiquette 19 exchange rates 17 Ex-Stabilimento Florio della Tonnara 100F
Falconara 248 Faraglione 101 Farm Cultural Park 249 Favara 249 Favignana 100-1 Ferrovia Circumetnea 186 Festa di Sant’Agata 23,176
Festino Di Santa Rosalia 24, 64 festivals 23-4 Carnevale 181-2, 245 climbing 91 diving 144 film 24, 168 folk 239 food 91 jazz 176 performing arts 168, 176, 198 puppets 62 religious 64, 94, 176, 198, 222, 239 Ficogrande 154 Filicudi 156-7 Fiumara d’Arte 127 food 9, 20-1, 29-34, 280-7, 305, 32 cooking courses 29-30, 200, 209, 231 festivals 91 street food 66 Forgia Vecchia 154 Fossa di Vulcano 36 Fossa Felci 156
G
Galleria Regionale della Sicilia 61 galleries, see
museums & galleries Ganzirri 165 gardens, see
parks & gardens gay travellers 305 Gela 248-50 Gelso 143 geography 271 Giardini-Naxos 170-1 Ginostra 154 Gola dell’Alcantara 170 Golfo di Castellammare 88-92 Grammatico, Maria 98 Grotta del Bue Marino
156
Grotta del Cavallo 143 Grotta del Genovese 101 Grotta Rosata 83 Grotta Segreta 83 Guardia di Mezzo 83
H
Halaesa 127 health 305 hiking 36-8, see alsowalking tours Lipari 138-9 Monte Fossa delle
Felci 145 Mt Etna 185 Punta del Corvo 149 Riserva Naturale Torre
Salsa 243 Stromboli 150-1 Ustica 83 Vulcano 142-3 Himera 120-1 history 272-9 holidays 307-8 hot springs, see
spas & hot springs
i
immigration 271, 291 insurance 305 internet access 305-6 internet resources 17, see also individual locations Ionian Coast 45, 158-87, 160-1 accommodation 158 food 158 highlights 160-1 internet resources 159 itineraries 159 planning 159 Islam 274 Isola Bella 168 Isola Capo Passero 209326
in
D
eX
I- Q
Isola di Ustica 40 Isole Ciclopi 40 Isole Egadi 40 Isole Pelagie 40 itineraries 25-8, 25, 26, 27, 28K
kayaking, seecanoeing & kayaking
L
La Kalsa 61-3, 58-9 La Martorana 53, 74, 74 La Parete dei Gabbiani
139 La Rocca 116 Laghetto di Fanghi 143 Lago Di Pergusa 221-2 Lampedusa 248 Lampione 248 language 16, 19, 316-21 Latomia del Paradiso 195 legal matters 306 lesbian travellers 305 Levanzo 101-2 Licata 248 Lido di Noto 208 Lido Mazzarò 21 Lingua 146 Linosa 248 Lipari 133-42, 138, 10 Lipari Town 135-8, 136 Lisca Bianca 148 Lisca Nera 148 literature 270, 292-4
M
Mafia 279, 296-9 Malfa 146 mansions, see villas maps 306 Marettimo 102 marine reserves 40, 83,see also regional parks & reserves markets 14, 22, 14
Antico Mercato 201 La Pescheria 174 Mercato del Capo 56 Mercato di Ballarò 56
Marsala 103-6, 104 Marzamemi 209
mattanza 100 Mazara Del Vallo 106-8 Mazzarino 250 Mazzarò 168 measures 307 Mediterranean coast 46, 233-50, 236-7 accommodation 233 food 233 highlights 236-7 internet resources 234 itineraries 234 planning 234 Megara Hyblaea 202 Messina 162-5, 162 Milazzo 128-30 Mistretta 127 mobile phones 16, 308-9 Modica 209-11 Modica Alta 209 Monastero di Santo Spirito
239 Mondello 80 money 16, 19, 306-7 Monreale 80-1 Monte Filo dell’Arpa 157 Monte Fossa delle Felci
36, 145 Monte Tauro 168 Morgantina 229 motorcycle travel 311-12, 313-15, see also driving tours, road distances Mozia 38, 103 Mt Etna 35-6, 159, 183-7, 12, 37 mud baths 38, 143 Museo Archeologico Baglio Anselmi 104-5 Museo Archeologico Regionale 60 Museo Archeologico Regionale Eoliano 135 Museo del Satiro 107 Museo Nazionale Pepoli 94 Museo Regionale 163 museums & galleries
CIDMA 82
Galleria Regionale della Sicilia 61 Museo Archeologico Baglio Anselmi 104 Museo Archeologico Regionale 60 Museo Archeologico Regionale Eoliano 135
Museo del Satiro 107 Museo Nazionale Pepoli 94 Museo Regionale 163 Tesoro della Cattedrale 57
n
national parks, see regional parks & reserves Necropoli di Pantalica 203 New City 63, 64 newspapers 307 Nicosia 223 Noto 205-8, 206
o
Ognissanti 24 Oliveri 120 opening hours 17, 307opera dei pupi 68 Orecchio di Dionisio 195 Ortygia 192-3, 194
p
Pachino 208-9 painting 300 Palazzo dei Normanni
55, 76 Palazzolo Acreide 203-5 Palermo 15, 44, 51-83, 50, 54, 58-9, 64, 15 accommodation 48, 252-4 climate 48 drinking 67-8 entertainment 49, 68, 77 festivals 64 food 48, 49, 64-7 highlights 50 internet resources 49 itineraries 49 medical services 77 planning 49 shopping 77 sights 51-63 tourist information 77-8 travel to/from 78 travel within 78 walking tour 52, 52 Panarea 148-50 Parco Archeologico della Neapolis 73, 193 Parco Naturale Regionale
delle Madonie 14, 121-5, 14 Parco Regionale dei
Nebrodi 126-7 parks & gardens, see also
regional parks & reserves Agrigento 238 Caltagirone 230 Catania 175 Palermo 52, 63 Ragusa 214 Taormina 168 Persephone 222 Petralia Soprana 123-4 Petralia Sottana 124-5 Piano Battaglia 125 Piano Provenzana 185 Piazza Armerina 223-5, 224 Pietra del Bagno 139 Pietra Menalda 139 Pineta Ragabo 185 Piscina di Venere 143 Piscità 154 planning, see also
individual regions
budgets 17 calendar of events
23-4
children, travel with 41-3 itineraries 25-8 Sicily basics 16-17 travel seasons 16 Plemmirio 40 Pollara 146 population 271 Portopalo di Capo Passero
209 postal services 307 public holidays 307-8 Punta Castagna 139 Punta del Corvo 149 Punta del Faro 165 Punta Omo Morto 83 Punta Troia 102
Q
Quattrocchi 138 Map Pages 000
327
in
D
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R
-V
r
Ragusa 212-15, 212-13, 5 regional parks & reserves36, see also
marine reserves, parks & gardens Parco Archeologico della
Neapolis 73, 193 Parco Naturale
Regionale delle Madonie 14, 121-5, 14 Parco Regionale dei
Nebrodi 126-7 Riserva Naturale dello
Zingaro 89-91 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 103 Riserva Naturale Macalube di Aragona 242
Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari 209
Riserva Naturale Saline di Trapani e Paceco 103
Riserva Naturale Torre Salsa 243 religion 271, 290-1 Rifugio Sapienza 185 Rinella 146 Riserva Naturale dello
Zingaro 38, 39, 89-91, 2 Riserva Naturale
di Stagnone 103 Riserva Naturale Macalube
di Aragona 242 Riserva Naturale Oasi
Faunistica di Vendicari 209
Riserva Naturale Saline di Trapani e Paceco 103 Riserva Naturale Torre
Salsa 243 Riviera dei Ciclopi 181-3 road distances, see also
car travel Aeolian Islands 131 Ionian Coast 158 Syracuse & the Southeast 188 Tyrrhenian Coast 112 Western Sicily 84 road signs 314 Rocca Di Cerere 220-1 Rocche del Crasto 126 Rocche di Cusa 108 rock climbing 38 rod-marionette theatre 68
ruins & archaeological sites 20 Akrai 203-5 Capo Soprano 250 Catania 175 Eloro 209 Giardini-Naxos 170-1 Halaesa 127 Himera 120-1 Megara Hyblaea 202 Morgantina 229 Mozia 103 Necropoli di Pantalica 203
Parco Archeologico della Neapolis 73, 193 Segesta 73, 88, 69, 72-3 Selinunte 73, 108-11, 109 Solunto 73, 81-2, 73 Teatro Greco 167, 11, 72-3
Tempio della Concordia 235, 72
Tyndaris 128 Valley of the Temples 73,
235-9, 240, 13 Villa Romana del Casale
74, 226-7, 226, 75 Villa Romana del Tellaro
209 Villaggio Preistorico 149
s
safe travel 308 sagre 30 Salina 145-8, 145 Saline di Trapani 13, 102-3, 13 Salus Per Aquam 146 San Leone 243 San Marco D’Alunzio126-7 San Vito Climbing
Festival 38 San Vito Lo Capo 91-2 Santa Maria La Scala
181
Santa Marina Salina 145 Sant’Agata di Militello 127-8 Santuario dell’Annunziata
94
Santuario della Madonna del Tindari 128 Savoca 165 Scala dei Turchi 243
Scalinata di Santa Maria Del Monte 229-30 Scalo Cavallo 100 Sciacca 243-6, 244 Scicli 211-12 Scoglio della Canna 156 Scopello 89 sculpture 301-2 Secca del Bagno 139 Segesta 73, 88, 69, 72-3 Selinunte 73, 108-11, 109 Sentiero del Mezzogiorno
83
shopping 308, see also
markets Siculiana Marina 243 skiing Mt Etna 186 Piano Battaglia 125 smoking 307 snorkelling, see
diving & snorkelling Solunto 73, 81-2, 73 Southeast Sicily 46, 188-9, 203-15, 190-1 accommodation 188 food 188 highlights 190-1 internet resources 189 itineraries 189 planning 189 Spalmatore 83 spas & hot springs
Salina 146 Sciacca 245 Termini Imerese 119-20 Vulcano 143 Spiaggetta Zimmari 149 Spiaggia Bianca 138 Spiaggia dei Faraglioni 89 Spiaggia della Papesca
138
Spiaggia Fumarola 149 Spiaggia Sabbia Nera
143
Spiaggia Valle i Muria 137-8 Spisone 168
stately homes, see villas street food 66 Stromboli 36, 150-6, 151, 12, 21 Stromboli Crater 151 Syracuse 9, 46, 192-202, 194, 196, 8-9 accommodation 188, 264-5 drinking 200-1 festivals 198 food 188, 198-200 internet resources 189 medical services 201 shopping 201 sights 192-8 tourist information 201-2 travel to/from 202 travel within 202
t
Taormina 165-70, 166, 9 taxis 315 Teatro Greco 167, 11, 72-3 telephone services 308-9 Tempio della Concordia235, 72 Termini Imerese 119-20 Tesoro della Cattedrale
57 time 16, 309 tipping 19 Torre Salsa 243 tourist information 309 traffic 308 train travel 17, 312, 315 Trapani 92-7, 93 trekking, see hiking tuna 100 Tyndaris 128 Tyrrhenian Coast 45, 112-30, 114-15 accommodation 112 food 112 highlights 114-15 internet resources 113 itineraries 113 planning 113
U
unemployment 271 Ustica 82-3, 37V
vacations 307-8 Valle dell’Anapo 203 Valley of the Temples 73,235-9, 240, 13 vegans 305 vegetarians 305 Villa Comunale 168 Villa Malfitano 63
328
in
D
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V
-Z
Villa Romana del Casale 74, 226-7, 226, 75 Villa Romana del Tellaro
209 Villaggio Preistorico 83, 149 villas Villa Comunale 168 Villa Malfitano 63 Villa Romana del Casale
20, 74, 226-7, 226, 75 Villa Romana del
Tellaro 209 visas 310
volcanoes 12, 35-6 Fossa di Vulcano 36,
142-3 Monte Fossa delle
Felci 145 Mt Etna 159, 183-7, 12, 37 Stromboli 36, 150-6, 151, 12, 21 Vucciria 57-61, 58-9 Vulcanelli di Macalube 242 Vulcano 142-5, 142 Vulcano Dive Festival 144
W
walking, see hiking walking tours
Palermo 52, 52 Stromboli 152, 152 water 306 weather 16, 23-4 websites, see internet
resources weights 307 Western Sicily 44, 84-111, 86-7 accommodation 84 food 84 highlights 86-7 internet resources 85 itineraries 85 planning 85 wi-fi 305 wine 96, 105, 146, 285-6 women in Sicily 289-90 women travellers 310 WWII 278-9
Z
Zafferana Etnea 186 Zucco Grande 156 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000322
322
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Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes:
Alba Martínez, Albert Hassel, Alex Rance, Andrea Amore, Andrea Kraissenger, Anne Falck Nordskar, Ausra Kamicaityte, Bachar Houli, Brandon Ellis, Brett Deledio, Carla Conti, Carlo Costa, Caroline Callow, Charlotte Hendriks, Chris Kyprianou, Christina Judd, Christine Beard, Ciro Spataro, Daniel Schlatter, David Abbott, Dustin Martin, Eleonor Myer, Emanuele Buc-cheri, Emma Phillips, Emma Ponente, Fidel Gaviola, Gail Lee Saetre, Gary Lopes, Geoff Cole, Giacomo Minaglia, Gianluca Maggiulli, Guido Braschi, Heidi Gabrielsen, Hannu von Hertzen, Ivan Maric, Jack Riewoldt, Jake King, James Williams, Javier Ro-dríguez, Jeremie Savoir, Joe Parlavecchio, John Rose, Julio Paleta, Julio Sargos, Luciano Baracco, Manfred Mareck, Manuela Arigoni, Marcos Brigans, Marina Poot, Martin Gascoigne, Martin Strothjohann, Mary Oldsiness, Meggy Surimy, Michael Riding, Nelleke Kruijs Voorberge, Nick Vlastuin, Nicola Fiorilla, Pablo Sanchez, Patrick O’Shea, Peter Osburt, Ramon Sonsoz, Richard Bourgoynes, Roger van Founzer, Rolf Grau, Russo Giuseppe, Sarah Poulter, Siegfried Schwab & Ina-Kristin Schlude, Stephanie Schintler,
Toby Miller, Trent Cotchin, Tyrone Vickery, Vicki Nico-losi, Victor LaCerva, William & Kathy Leipham
AUTHOR THANKS
Gregor Clark
Grazie mille to all of the kind-hearted Italians
who helped make this trip so memorable, es-pecially Angela and Nicoletta in Palermo, the Tagliavia family in Polizzi Generosa, Francesca in Stromboli, Marisin and Salvatore in Scopello, Stefano in Milazzo, and Diana in Lipari. Thanks to Gurty Spam for joining me on the Aeolians and helping me renew my Stromboli obsession. Finally, big hugs to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who always make returning home the happiest part of the trip.
Vesna Maric
Thanks, as always, go to Rafael, Frida, my mother and Susana. Big thanks go to Simone, Alessandra, Cesare and baby Arturo, and to Alessandra’s mother. Grazie mille to Ettore Messina, and Andrea and Florinda in Favara. Thank yous to Joe Bindloss and Gregor Clark – it was a pleasure to work with both of you.
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Climate Map Data Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the
Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and
Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.
Cover photograph: Mondello Harbour, Palermo; Alessandro Saffo/4 Corners
THIS BOOK
This sixth edition of Lonely Planet’s Sicily guidebook was researched and written by Gregor Clark and Vesna Mar-ic. The previous edition was written by Virginia Maxwell and Duncan Garwood, and the 4th edition was written by Vesna Maric. This guide-book was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:
Commissioning Editors
Joe Bindloss, Helena Smith
Coordinating Editors
Justin Flynn, Simon Williamson
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Langdon, Charlotte Orr, Kirsten Rawlings
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Drishya C, Jackson James,
Nithya Kalyani M, Anoop Shetty
Internal Image Research
Kylie McLaughlin
Cover Research Naomi
Parker
Language Content
Branislava Vladisavljevic
Thanks to Shahara Ahmed,
Anita Banh, Ryan Evans, Samantha Forge, Larissa Frost, Chris Girdler, Genesys India, Jouve India, Katie O’Connell, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Angela Tinson, Gerard Walker
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