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T

he baking and pastry professions are growing rapidly. Demand for high-quality breads has fostered the rebirth of the craft of baking. Artisan bakers and even organic wheat growers are finding more customers for their products. More and more restaurants are hiring pastry chefs and posting their names prominently on menus.To keep up with the demand, schools of culinary arts around the world are expanding their baking and pastry programs.

Professional Bakinghas been part of this exciting renaissance for nearly two decades. This new fourth edition continues my effort to make the book ever more useful to a growing readership. The previous edition, as long-time readers know, was a substantial revision, with new color photos, new chapters, new formulas, new advanced material on pastry making and decorative work, and a total redesign.The fourth edition is a further refinement and expansion, with more new material and a fresh look. At the same time, it is at heart the same trusted text on which instructors and students and amateur bakers have long depended.

WHAT’S NEW

The fourth edition of Professional Baking is the fruit of a continuing dialog with instructors in schools with many curricula and approaches to baking instruction. The selection of new material and the refinement of old material are in response to their requests, and I am grateful for their input. Among the most prominent additions and changes are the following:

• A new chapter on artisan bread baking, including detailed instructions for preparing sourdough starters, understanding and managing natural fermentation, and producing a variety of fine handcrafted breads with both yeast starters and natural starters.

• A new chapter outlining the most important equip-ment used in the bakeshop.

• More than 175 new color photographs, bringing the total to over 500. The photos illustrate ingredients and step-by-step techniques as well as finished breads, cakes, pastries, and desserts.

• An expanded introduction to the history of baking. • A rewritten and expanded explanation of wheat

flours and their characteristics.

• New material on plating techniques for restaurant-style desserts.

The participation of Le Cordon Bleu, which debuted in the third edition, continues here. Of the approximately 700 formulas in the book, more than 175 are from the chefs at Le Cordon Bleu in London and Paris.

This red logo indicates formulas that I have developed and tested.

This blue logo indicates formulas that were developed and tested by Le Cordon Bleu.

THE GOAL OF THIS TEXT

The goal of this book is to provide students with a solid theoretical and practical foundation in baking practices, including selection of ingredients, proper mixing and baking techniques, careful makeup and assembly, and skilled and imaginative decoration and presentation. It is designed as a primary text for use in colleges and culinary schools, baking courses within broader food service curricula, and on-the-job training programs. It is also valuable as a manual for cooks and bakers, both professional and amateur.

The methods and procedures in this book are

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primarily those of small bakeshops and food service organizations. The emphasis is on producing high-quality handcrafted items. Development of manual skills is stressed. Such skills are a valuable asset even to students who eventually move on to more industrialized, automated production like that found in large com-mercial bakeries.

The text focuses on both understanding and performing. The practical material is supported by a systematic presentation of basic theory and ingredient information so students learn not only what techniques work but also why they work. Procedures for basic bread and pastry doughs, cake mixes, creams, and icings form the core of the material. Much of the text is devoted to step-by-step procedures and production techniques. The discussion of techniques is reinforced with straightforward formulas that allow students to develop their skills while working with large or small quantities.

Those students who have developed a good understanding and mastery of basic techniques are usually eager to progress to fine pastries and other advanced work. The basic techniques and formulas that form the core of the book are supplemented with explanations of advanced techniques and formulas, enabling students to learn and practice a broad range of skills for producing fine pastries, cakes, and decorative pieces. Emphasis here is on developing manual skills for careful detailed work rather than on producing large quantities.Those whose careers or interests lead them to restaurants rather than bakeries and pastry shops will find a detailed discussion of the principles of designing and plating appealing dessert presentations.

THE ORGANIZATION OF THE TEXT Two factors strongly influence the arrangement and organization of this book. The first is the dual emphasis already mentioned—the emphasis on both under-standing and performing. It is not enough to present students with a collection of formulas, nor is it enough to give them a freestanding summary of baking theory and principles. They must be presented together, and the connections between them must be clear. Thus, when students practice preparing specific items, their study of theory helps them understand what they are doing, why they are doing it, and how to get the best results. At the same time, each formula they prepare helps reinforce their understanding of the basic principles. Knowledge builds upon knowledge.

The second factor is that most of a baker’s activities fall naturally into two categories: (1) mixing, baking, and/or cooking doughs, batters, fillings, creams, and icings, and (2) assembling these elements (for example, baked cake layers, fillings, and icings) into finished pieces. The first category of tasks requires careful

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Preface

selection of ingredients, accurate measurement, and close attention to mixing and baking procedures. Naturally, most of the detailed guidelines and procedures in this book are devoted to these kinds of tasks. The second category, the assembly of prepared components, is less a matter of scientific accuracy than of manual skills and artistic abilities.

This division of tasks is so well known to the practicing baker that it is usually taken for granted. Consequently, it is often neglected in written materials. As far as possible, the arrangement of subjects in this text reflects the working practices of bakeshops and kitchens. In a typical facility, operations such as mixing pie doughs, cooking fillings, preparing icings, and mixing and baking cake layers are done separately and in advance.Then, depending on demand, finished products can be assembled quickly, shortly before they are needed. In this book, the procedures for mixing and baking cakes, for example, are discussed separately from the procedures for assembling, icing, and decorating them. These are very different techniques, and students find it helpful to approach them in a realistic context. Similarly, basic creams and icings are fundamental elements required for making a wide range of pastries, cakes, and other desserts; hence, they are treated early in the text.

Although the arrangement of chapters represents a logical grouping of products and procedures, it is not intended to dictate the order in which instructors should teach the units. Every curriculum has different requirements and constraints, so the sequence of instruction varies from school to school and instructor to instructor. The arrangement of material in this text is designed to encourage flexibility. Instructors are encouraged to teach the material in any order that suits their needs. Of course, baking techniques are highly interdependent; frequent cross-references help students understand these connections.

An important element in the text is the participation of the instructor, whose ideas and professional experience are invaluable. There is no substitute for firsthand seeing and doing under the guidance and supervision of experienced teachers. Baking is an art as much as a skill, and on many points bakers and pastry chefs differ in their preferences. The text frequently explains possible variations in theory and procedure, and students are encouraged to consult their instructor for the techniques he or she prefers.Throughout the book, the instructor’s input is encouraged. Exposure to a variety of formulas and techniques can only enrich students’ education and enhance their skills.

The text is designed for readability and practicality. Discussions of baking theory are presented in easy-to-read, point-by-point explanations. Techniques and makeup methods are detailed in concise yet complete step-by-step procedures. The format emphasizes and highlights key points in bold type, italics, and numbered

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software program used in the food service industry. The CD-ROM contains nearly 700 formulas from this book, plus a range of useful features that make them easy to adapt and manipulate to suit individual needs. Users can:

• Add, edit, modify, and print formulas, portion sizes, or yield and create shopping lists.

• Cost recipes using preloaded ingredient prices. • Search recipes by main ingredient, meal, and cuisine

type.

• Resize formulas using baking formulas in U.S. or metric measurements, or baker’s percentages.

• Perform metric conversions instantly.

• Calculate nutritional analyses of formulas in U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) format and update nutritional analysis if an ingredient is changed. Supplements

To enhance the mastery of the material in Professional

Baking, the following student and instructor supple-ments are available:

The Study Guide (ISBN 0-471-47777-X) contains re-view materials, practice problems, and exercises. (An-swers to questions are included in the Instructor’s

Manual.)

The Instructor’s Manual with Study Guide Solutions (ISBN 0-471-47779-6) includes teaching suggestions and test questions. Test questions are also available in electronic form on a CD-ROM and on our Web site, available to course instructors upon request.

The Student Workbook (ISBN 0-471-47781-8) has been developed by the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation in consultation with the author for its ProMgmt. Certificate program. The workbook contains exercises and a study outline for each chapter, plus an eighty-question practice test. The practice test assists students in preparing for the certificate exam-ination. In addition, an Instructor’s Guide (ISBN 0-471-47775-3) is available to course instructors to comple-ment and highlight information in the textbook and

Student Workbook.

The newly updated and revised Web site contains information for the student and instructor. It is available at www.wiley.com/go/gisslen.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

A book of this nature and scope must always be more than a one-person job. First of all, I would like to thank a large group of people who are in many ways the unsung heroes of Professional Baking. I refer to the many instructors and other readers of the book who have corresponded with me and my editors over the years or sequences, so the basic information can be located and

reviewed at a glance. THE FORMULAS

Nearly 700 formulas and recipes are included for the most popular breads, cakes, pastries, and desserts.These formulas are not selected at random, merely for the sake of having formulas in the book. Rather, they are carefully chosen and developed to teach and reinforce the techniques students are learning and to strengthen their understanding of basic principles.The goal is for students to understand and use not only the formulas in this book but any formula they encounter.

The formulas in this book are instructional—that is, their purpose is not merely to give directions for producing baked goods but also to provide an opportunity to practice, with specific ingredients, the general principles being studied. Directions within formulas are often abbreviated. For example, instead of spelling out the straight dough method for breads in detail for each dough mixed in this way, this book refers the student to the preceding discussion of the procedure. By thinking and reviewing, students derive a stronger learning experience from their lab work.

Many formulas are followed by variations. These are actually whole formulas given in abbreviated terms.This feature encourages students to see the similarities and differences among preparations. For example, there seems little point in giving a formula for cream pie filling in the pie chapter, a formula for custard filling for éclairs and napoleons in a pastry chapter, and separate formulas for each flavor of cream pudding in a pudding chapter without pointing out that these are all basically the same preparation. Skill as a baker depends on understanding and being able to exercise judgment, not just on following recipes. The ability to exercise judgment is essential in all branches of cookery but especially so in baking, where the smallest variation in procedure can produce significant changes in the baked product. The formulas in this text will help students develop judgment by requiring them to think about the relationships between general procedures and specific products.

Students are encouraged to study chapter 1 before actually proceeding with any of the formulas.The second section of the chapter explains the principles of mea surement, the various formats used for the formulas and recipes in this book, techniques for converting yield, and U.S. and metric measurements and bakers’ percentages. FEATURES

CD-ROM

The CD-ROM, designed to complement the book, accompanies the academic edition of this book and utilizes Chef Tec Tutor™ software, a professional-level

Preface

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Finally,I wish to thank everyone at John Wiley and Sons who worked so hard on this project: Andrea Johnson, Diana Cisek, Julie Kerr, Tzviya Siegman, Lynne Marsala, Brent Savage, Clint Lahnen, Jill Piscitelli, Rashell Smith, Karl Brandt, Melissa Oliver, and especially my long-time editor and friend, JoAnna Turtletaub, who worked with me so tirelessly.

REVIEWERS

Robert L. Anderson, Des Moines Area Community

College, Ankeny, Iowa

Mark S. Cole, Del Mar College, Corpus Christi,Texas Martha Crawford, Johnson & Wales University,

Providence, Rhode Island

John R. Farris, Lansing Community College, Lansing,

Michigan

Joseph D. Ford, New York Food and Hotel

Management, New York, New York

Robert J. Galloway, Dunwoody Industrial Institute,

Minneapolis, Minnesota

David Gibson, Niagara College of Applied Arts and

Technology, Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada

Kathryn Gordon,Art Institute of New York City, New

York, New York

Jean Hassell,Youngstown State University,

Youngstown, Ohio

Iris A. Helveston, State Department of Education,

Tallahassee, Florida

Nancy A. Higgins, Art Institute of Atlanta, Atlanta,

Georgia

George Jack,The Cooking and Hospitality Institute of

Chicago, Chicago, Illinois

Mike Jung, Hennepin Technical College, Brooklyn Park,

Minnesota

Frederick Glen Knight,The Southeast Institute of

Culinary Arts, St.Augustine, Florida

Paul Krebs, Schenectady County Community College,

Schenectady, New York

Jeffrey C. LaBarge, Central Piedmont Community

College, Charlotte, North Carolina

Fred LeMeisz, St. Petersburg Vocational Technical

Institute, St. Petersburg, Florida

Laurel Leslie, Kapiolani Community College, Honolulu,

Hawaii

Janet Lightizer, Newbury College, Brookline,

Massachusetts

Valeria S. Mason, State Department of Education,

Gainesville, Florida

John Oechsner,Art Institute of Atlanta,Atlanta, Georgia

who have responded thoughtfully to our questions and surveys. These instructors face many challenges every day as they work to transmit the knowledge and skills of our craft to their students in an array of learning environments. They have helped me understand from their points of view the difficulties instructors face, and this has helped me develop the text, from edition to edition, into a more inclusive and flexible teaching and learning tool.These reviewers have truly been an integral part of the development of Professional Baking from the first edition, and I am grateful to them. Most of the changes and additions to the fourth edition have been in response to their input. To give them due recognition, I have added a list of reviewers following these acknowledgments. No doubt I have inadvertently missed some people, so I would like to thank every instructor who has talked or corresponded with me about this book and given me ideas for its improvement.

Second, I would like to express my gratitude to the staff of Le Cordon Bleu, whose participation made such a great improvement in the previous edition and whose contributions still form an important part of this new edition. Thanks especially to André Cointreau, president of Le Cordon Bleu, for making this collaboration possible. Julie Walsh and Laurent Duchêne are the two remarkable pastry chefs who developed and tested the many formulas that found a place in the text. I thank them very much. In addition, a number of students worked with chefs Walsh and Duchêne during our photography session in London: Saori Matsunuma,Yuka Eguchi, Kaori Tsuboi, Erika Kahn, Michele Perle, Townley Morrison, James Rizzo, Daniel Schumer, and Benjamin Coffin.

Photographer Jim Smith has worked with me on all my projects for more than twenty years, and his work is such an important part of these texts that he is truly a partner in their development. Once again his work has added immeasurably to this new edition. I would like to thank not only Jim but also his great team, including Anne Smith and Ryan Basten, for the great working relationship and friendship that has developed.

Turtle Bread Company in Minneapolis, Minnesota, makers of outstanding artisan breads and other fine baked goods, graciously allowed me and my photography crew access to their shop. I am grateful to the staff and especially to Solveig Tofte for their assistance and hospitality.

Testing new formulas and recipes and retesting old ones is an important part of the work of a new edition, and I would like to extend my thanks to Jennifer Peck for her skilled and knowledgeable assistance both in recipe testing and in preparation for photography.

I would like to extend recognition and gratitude to a great pastry chef and teacher, Leo “Sonny” Silverman, my first inspiration and mentor in fine pastry and decorative work.

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Philip Panzarino, New York City Technical College,

Brooklyn, New York

Kenneth Perry, Brown College, Mendota Heights,

Minnesota

Richard Petrello,Withlacoochee Vocational-Technical

Center, Inverness, Florida

Willaim H. Pifer, Bellingham Technical College,

Bellingham,Washington

Gunter Rehm, Orange Coast College, Costa Mesa,

California

Kent R. Rigby, Baltimore International College,

Baltimore, Maryland

Kimberly Schenk, Diablo Valley College, Pleasant Hill,

California

Preface

XXXI

Peter Scholtes, George Brown College,Toronto,

Ontario, Canada

Simon Stevenson, Connecticut Culinary Institute,

Suffield, Connecticut

Patrick Sweeney, Johnson County Community College,

Overland Park, Kansas

Chris Thielman, College of DuPage, Glen Ellyn, Illinois F. H. Waskey, University of Houston, Houston,Texas J. William White, Pinellas County School System,

St. Petersburg, Florida

Ronald Zabkiewicz, South Technical Education Center,

Boynton Beach, Florida

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