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Index
Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000A
accommodation 20, 726-7,see also individual locations
Achaean civilisation, see Mycenaean civilisation Achaïa 179-86 Acrocorinth 134-6 Acropolis (Athens) 9, 71-6,
598, 74, 8-9, 72-3, 599 Acropolis of Agios Andreas
405
Acropolis of Lindos 480 activities 51-5, 56-7, see also
individual activities, individual locations Adamas 399 Aegiali 371-2 Aegina 302-6, 302 Aegina Town 303-5 Agamemnon 96, 138, 139 Agathonisi 536-7 Agia Galini 438-9 Agia Kyriaki 218 Agia Marina 524-5 Agia Pelagia 669 Agia Triada 429 Agios Ahillios 271 Agios Efstratios 583 Agios Georgios (Agathonisi)
536-7
Agios Georgios (Crete) 463 Agios Ioannis 213-14 Agios Kirykos 541-3 Agios Konstantinos 205-6 Agios Nikolaos 453-6, 454 Agios Pavlos 438-64 agriculture 673 air travel airlines 734-5 airports 734 internet resources 41 to/from Greece 734-5 within Greece 41, 736 Akrotiri Peninsula 445 Alexander the Great 190,
680-2 Alexandroupoli 279-81 Alinda 526-7 Alonnisos 618-23, 619 alphabet 743 Alyki 593 Ambelakia 206 Amorgos 367-72, 368 amusement parks 94 Anafi 389-91 Analipsi 516
Ancient Agora (Athens) 80, 83, 83 Ancient Akrotiri 22, 388 Ancient Corinth 134-5 Ancient Delos 396-8, 598, 397, 40 Ancient Delphi 10, 189, 191, 599, 10, 194-5, 599 Ancient Dion 266 Ancient Eleusis 129 Ancient Ialysos 481 Ancient Kamiros 482 Ancient Lato 457 Ancient Messini 168-9 Ancient Mycenae 137-9, 138 Ancient Nemea 136 Ancient Olympia 17, 176-7, 176, 17 Ancient Sparta 151-2 Ancient Thira 388 Ancient Zakros 460-1 Andritsena 178-9 Andros 322-5, 323 Angistri 306-7, 302 animals 718-20, see also
individual species Ano Meria 395 Ano Pedina 292 Ano Petali 404-5 Ano Syros 329 Anogia 435-6 Antia 609 Antikythira 670, 666 Antiparos 350-1, 344-5 Antipaxi 645-6, 644 Aoös River 294-5 Aphrodite 667, 669, 697 Apiranthos 361-2 Apollo 697 Apollo Coast 91-2 Apollonas 362 Apollonia 404 aquariums Cretaquarium 428-9 Edessa 269 Old Town Aquarium 473 Arahova 197-8 archaeological museums Andros 324 Agios Nikolaos 453 Argos 137 Athens 88, 96, 96 Chios Town 561 Fira 380 Florina 270 Hania 439, 442 Ierapetra 461 Ioannina 287 Iraklio 419-20 Karpathos 486 Kavala 263 Kissamos 445 Komotini 278 Kos Town 507 Lefkada Town 648 Messenia 166 Monemvasia 156 Mykonos 337 Myrina 580 Mytilini Town 570 Nafplio 142 Naxos 354 Nikopoli 297 Olympia 175-6 Parikia 346 Patras 180 Piraeus 124 Plaka 399-400 Pothia 518 Pythagorio 553-4 Rethymno 433 Rhodes Town 471 Sitia 459 Skala 514 Sparta 152 Thasos 590 Thessaloniki 244 Vathy 551 Veria 267 Volos 207 archaeological sites 598-9,
see also Roman sites,
temples, tombs Acrocorinth 135-6 Acropolis (Athens) 9, 71-6, 598, 74, 8-9, 72-3, 599 Acropolis of Agios Andreas 405 Acropolis of Lindos 480 Agia Triada 429 Alyki 593
Ancient Agora (Athens) 80, 83, 83 Ancient Akrotiri 22, 388 Ancient Corinth 134-5 Ancient Delos 396-8, 598, 397, 40 Ancient Delphi 10, 189, 191, 599, 10, 194-5, 599 Ancient Dion 266 Ancient Eleusis 129 Ancient Ialysos 481 Ancient Kamiros 482 Ancient Lato 457 Ancient Messini 168-9 Ancient Mycenae 137-9, 138 Ancient Nemea 136 Ancient Olympia 17, 176-7, 176, 17 Ancient Sparta 151-2 Ancient Thira 388
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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archaeological sites continued Ancient Zakros 460-1 Asklipieion 511-12 Dimini 209 Dodoni 290 Epidavros 145-7, 30-1 Erechtheion 76, 599 Eretria 606 Evpalinos Tunnel 553 Falasarna 446 Filakopi 402 Gournia 457-8 Hephaistia 582 House of Homer 660 Ireon 555 Kea Lion 412 Keramikos 80-1 Keros 365 Knossos 14, 425-8, 689, 701, 425, 14, 426-7 Kos Town 507-8 Malia 429 Mikro Horio 499 Mystras 153-5, 153 Nekromanteio of Afyra 299 Palamari 628 Paleohora 305 Paleokastro (Gialova) 173 Paleokastro (Mandraki) 503 Panathenaic Stadium 82 Parthenon 75-6, 8, 73 Phaestos 429 Poliohni 582 Ramnous 129 Sanctuary of the GreatGods 586-7 Sesklo 209 Skarkos 373-4 Thasos (Limenas) 590 Tiryns 145 Tower of the Winds 80 underwater sites 53 architecture 701-5 area codes 19 Areopagus Hill 79-80 Areopoli 160-1 Ares 697 Argolis 136-47 Argos 137 Argostoli 653-5, 654 Aristi 292 Aristotle 682 Arkadia 147-50 Arkasa 488 Arki 535-6 Armeos 521 art galleries, see galleries Artemis 697 Artemonas 404-5 arts 22, 23, 706-10, see
also individual arts
Asklipieion 511-12 Assos 657 Astakos 203 Astypalea 513-17, 514 Atatürk, Mustafa Kemal
246, 687 Athena 67, 75, 76, 96, 696-7 Athenian Treasury 194, 194 Athens 10, 59, 64-123, 65, 68-9, 77, 84-5, 90-1, 102-3, 110, 10, 46, 602 accommodation 64, 95-105 activities 92 children, travel with 94 climate 64 courses 92 drinking 111-16 emergency services 119 entertainment 116-17 festivals 95 food 22, 64, 105-11 gay & lesbian
travellers 115 highlights 65 history 66-7, 70 internet resources 118, 120 itineraries 66 medical services 120 planning 64-5 safety 119 shopping 118-19 sights 70-92 tourist information 120 tours 92-5 travel seasons 64 travel to/from 120-2 travel within 122-3 walking tour 98-9, 99 Athens Classic Marathon 22 Athens grand promenade
81 Athos Peninsula 258-9, 259 ATMs 730 Atsitsa 628 Attica 127-9, 128-9
Attica Zoological Park 94 August Moon Festival
27, 601
B
Balkan Wars 686, 689 bargaining 21 basketball 117, 723 bathrooms 732 Batsi 322-3battles, see wars & battles beaches 22, 230-1 bears 718 beer 22, 253, 381 bicycle travel, see cycling,
mountain biking birds 719-20 birdwatching
Dadia Forest Reserve 281-2 Evros Delta 281 Fanari protected wetlands 255 Gialova Lagoon 173 Lesvos (Mytilini) 568 Panagia Islet 591 Preveza 295 Skyros 625, 628 Tilos 500 boars 719
boat travel, see also boat trips, cruising, island hopping, sailing & yachting ferry routes 38-9 internet resources 40-1 to/from Greece 736 to/from Turkey 554 within Greece 35-41, 737 boat trips, see also boat
travel, cruising, island hopping, sailing & yachting Alonnisos 620 Athos Peninsula 258-9 Bay of Navarino 172 Corfu 635-6 Evia 608 Folegandros 394 Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 462 Gramvousa Peninsula 446 Igoumenitsa 296 Ioannina 287 Ithaki 659 Karpathos 489 Kasos 491 Kastellorizo (Megisti) 493 Koufonisia 366 Limnos 581 Lipsi 533 Milos 402 Mt Athos 261 Nafplio 142 Nekromanteio of Afyra 299 Paros 350 Plakias 437 Platanias 218 Prespa Lakes 271 Preveza 295 Rethymno 433 Santorini (Thira) 380 Saronic Gulf Islands 303 Skiathos 611 Skopelos 616 Skyros 625 Zakynthos 664 Book of Revelations 531 books, see also literature
cuisine 714, 718 history 144, 676, 677, 678, 685, 689, 700 border crossings 554, 735 Bouboulina, Laskarina 685 bouzouki 709 bouzoukia music 116 bridges Corinth Canal submersible bridge 135 Gorgopotamos Railway Bridge 204 Katouni Bridge 669 Konitsa Bridge 295 Rio–Andirio suspension bridge 200 Brooke, Rupert 628 budgeting 19, 44-5, 48, 726 bungee jumping 135 bus travel to/from Athens 121 to/from Greece 735 to/from Thessaloniki 254 within Greece 738, 741 business hours 19, 727, 729 Byron, Lord 201-2, 686 Byzantine Empire 67, 682-3 architecture 88, 703-4 music 710 Byzantine museums
Byzantine & Christian Museum (Athens) 89 Byzantine & Postbyzantine Collection (Hania) 442 Byzantine Museum (Chios Town) 561 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
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Byzantine Museum (Ioannina) 286 Byzantine Museum (Naoussa) 348 Byzantine Museum (Veria) 267 Byzantine Museum (Zakynthos Town) 662-3 Ecclesiastical (Byzantine) Museum (Vathy) 551 Museum of Byzantine &Post-Byzantine Art on Kythira 669 Museum of Byzantine Culture (Thessaloniki) 244
C
camping 726 canoeing, see kayaking,white-water rafting canyoning 585, 656 Cape Sounion 127 Cape Tenaro 163 car travel to/from Athens 121 to/from Greece 735 within Greece 738-40 Carnival 25, 601 Patras 180, 600-1 Skyros 626 Xanthi 276 Caryatids 73, 76, 73 castles, see also fortresses
Agios Georgios Kastro 655 Bazeos Castle 361 Byzantine-Genoese Castle 573 Castle of Antiparos 350-1 Castle of Faraklos 479 Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis 553 Castle of Monolithos 482 Castle of Myrina 580 Castle of Platamonas 266-7
Castle of the Knights (Kos Town) 507 Hora (Kythira) 667 Its Kale 286 Kastra (Ano Poli) 243 Kastro (Astypalea) 514 Koroni 170 Kritinia Castle 482 Nafpaktos 200 Neo Kastro 171-2 Paleokastro (Gialova) 173 Pandeli Castle 524 Patra (Patras) 180 Pythio 283 Venetian Castle (Paleohora) 451 Venetian Castle (Parga)
297 catacombs 400 cathedrals, see churches &
cathedrals Catherine the Great 686 caves & caving
Bekiris Cave 318 Blue Cave (Parasta) 493 Blue Caves (Zakynthos)
664, 24 Cave of Antiparos 351 Cave of Kastania 157-8 Cave of Philoctetes 582 Cave of Sykia Olymbi
565
Cave of the Apocalypse 531
Cave of the Lakes 185 Cave of the Sacred Icon
of Agios Giannis 364 Cave of Zeus 359 Didyma Caves 147 Dikteon Cave 463-4 Diros Caves 162 Harkadio Cave 498 ‘hippie’ caves (Matala)
431, 234 Ideon Cave 436 Kefallonia 656 Korykeon Cave 192 Koutouki Cave 129 Nestor’s Cave 173 Perama Cave 290 cell phones 18, 732 cemeteries, see also
tombs Ancient Cemetery
(Parikia) 346 Athens’ First
Cemetery 91 East Moudros Allied
Military Cemetery 582 Keramikos 80-1 Krithoni war cemetery
526 Mausoleum of Inousses 565 Mycenaean cemetery 367 Nekromanteio of Afyra 299 Portianos Military Cemetery 582 WWI Serbian cemetery
635 central Greece 60, 187-226, 188 accommodation 187 climate 187 food 187 highlights 188 planning 187 travel seasons 187 ceramics, see pottery Cerberus 696 changing of the guard
ceremony 86 chapels, see churches &
cathedrals children, travel with 56-8
Athens 94 food 57, 715 Chios 558-65, 559 Chios Town 560-2, 560 churches & cathedrals 599
Agios Nikolaos Rangavas 87 Agios Taxiarhes 217 Cathedral of Agios
Nikolaos 279 Church of Agia Sofia
243 Church of Agii
Theodori 87 Church of Agios Andreas
180 Church of Agios Dimitrios 243 Church of Agios Eleftherios 81 Church of Agios Georgios 292 Church of Agios Ioannis
(Areopoli) 160 Church of Agios Ioannis
(Lindos) 480 Church of Agios Nikolaos
(Galaxidi) 199 Church of Agios Nikolaos
(Hania) 442 Church of Agios
Spyridon 635 Church of Agios
Therapon 570-1 Church of Agios Titos
421-2
Church of Dionysios 663 Church of Kapnikarea 81 Church of Nikolaos
Orfanos 244 Church of Osios David
243-4 Church of Panagia Evangelistria 326 Church of Panagia Kera 457 Church of Panagia Kosmosotira 281 Church of Sotira Lykodimou 87 Church of Taxiarhes 160 Church of the Assumption of Mary (Komotini) 278 Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Kalambaka) 224 Church of the Panagia
Ahiropiitos 243 Churches of the Taxiarhes 564 Panagia Drosiani 361 Panagia Ekatondapyliani 345 Panagia Glykofilousa 575 Panagia Paraportiani 337 Taxiarhia of the Metropolis 272 cinema, see film Citadel of Mycenae, see
Ancient Mycenae Classical age 676-7, 702-3 classical music 709-10 climate 18, 25-7, see also
individual regions coffee 714 Colossus of Rhodes 470, 471 column styles 702-3, 73, 703 conservation 664, 776,
see also environmental
issues consulates 728-9 convents, see monasteries
& convents cooking courses 47-8, 625 Corfu 15, 230, 631-43, 632, 15, 37 Corfu Town 634-9, 636-7, 15, 37 Corinth Canal 135, 688, 688 Corinthia 134-6 Corinthian columns 702, 703, 703 costs 19, 44-5, 48, 726 courses, see also individual
locations cooking 47-8, 625 language 92, 333, 548, 571 painting 620 pottery 625 reiki 624 yoga 349, 573, 620 credit cards 730
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Cretaquarium 428-9 Crete 61, 230, 414-64, 416-17, 32-3, 34, 233, 234, 685 accommodation 414 climate 414 food 414 highlights 416-17 history 415 planning 414 travel seasons 414 travel to/from 415, 418, 419 travel within 418 cruising 42-5, see alsoboat travel, boat trips, island hopping, sailing & yachting Crusades, the 682-3 culture 595-602, 696-700, 721-4 currency 18 customs regulations 727-8 Cyclades 61, 319-413, 320 accommodation 319 climate 319 food 319 highlights 320 history 321 island hopping 321 planning 319 travel seasons 319 Cycladic civilisation 674, 675, 705 cycling 54-5, 736-7, see
also mountain biking
Kastoria 273 Kefallonia 656 Naxos 354 Cyprus issue 683, 690-1, 692
D
Dalmatian pelicans 201, 719-20 Damouhari 214 dance 710 dangers, see safe travel deer 719 deforestation 716 Delos 396-8 Delphi 189-96, 192 Delphic oracle 191, 700 democracy 676, 691-2 desalination plant 363 Diafani 489 Diana 697 Didymotiho 282 digital photography 731 Dilofo 292 Dimitsana 148-9 disabilities, travellers with 732 Distomo 198 diving & snorkelling 52,53, 51 Alonnisos 620 Amorgos 371 Antiparos 351 Athens 92 Chios 564 Corfu 640 Hora Sfakion 447 Ios 374 Kalymnos 519, 522 Lefkada 649 Milos 402 Mykonos 342 Paros 350 Plakias 437 Rhodes Town 474 Samos 554 Samothraki 585 Sithonian Peninsula 257 Skiathos 613 Thasos 592 Dodecanese 61, 465-537, 466 accommodation 465 climate 465 food 465 highlights 466 planning 465 travel seasons 465 dolphin watching 295, 616, 620 dolphins 720 domatia 727 Donousa 366-7 Dorian people 675 Doric columns 702, 703, 73, 703
drinking 731, see also wine, wineries, individual locations beer 22, 253, 381 coffee 714 kitron 360, 361 ouzo 49 driving, see car travel driving licences 738 drugs (illegal) 730 Durrell, Gerald 641 Durrell, Lawrence 641 DVDs 731
E
earthquakes 693, 717 Easter celebrations 11, 26, 601, 11, 600 economy 672-3, 692-3, 694-5, 721, 722-3 Edessa 268-9 Eftalou Beach 575 El Greco 88, 685, 706, 685 Elafonisi 452 electricity 728 Elefsina 129 Elounda 456-7 embassies 728-9 Embonas 482 Emborios (Halki) 484-5 Emborios (Kalymnos) 522 Emborios (Nisyros) 504-5 emergency services 19 Athens 119 language 744-5 Thessaloniki 253 endangered species 627, 718-20 environmental issues 716, 719 Epidavros 145-7, 30-1 Epidavros Festival 95, 146 Epiros 284-99 Epta Piges 479 Erechtheion 76, 599 Eretria 606 Ermoupoli 331-4, 332 etiquette 21 churches 326 food 50 monasteries 223 photography 731 Evans, Sir Arthur 425, 701 Evdilos 544-5 events, see festivals &events, sporting events Evia 62, 605-10, 604 accommodation 603 climate 603 food 603 highlights 604 planning 603 travel seasons 603 Evpalinos Tunnel 553 Evros Delta 281 exchange rates 19
F
Falasarna 446 fauna 718-20 Feres 281ferry travel, see boat travel, boat trips, cruising, island hopping festivals & events 25-7,
601, see also sporting events
Aegina Fistiki Fest 304 Ardas River Festival 284 Armata 316 August Moon Festival
27, 601 Carnival (Patras) 180,
600-1 Carnival (Skyros) 626 Carnival (Xanthi) 276 Classical Music Festival
(Nafplio) 142 Dionysos Theatre Festival 542 Easter celebrations 11, 26, 601, 11, 600 Epidavros Festival 95, 146 Festival of Agios Georgios 198 Festival Olympou 265 Frikaria Music Festival
542
Hellenic Festival 26, 95 Icarus Festival for
Dialogue Between Cultures 542 Ikaria 540, 601 International Eressos Women’s Festival 576 International Trade Fair 246 Kalamata International Dance Festival 166 Miaoulia Festival 311 Nestorio River Festival
273
Philippi Thasos Festival 590
Prespes Festival 271 Ragkountsaria Festival
273
rembetika music festival
623 Reworks International Music Festival 246 Thessaloniki International Film Festival 246 Wine & Cultural Festival
(Evia) 609 Wine Festival (Lipsi) 533 Xanthi Old Town Festival
276 Map Pages 000
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feta 711 film 672, 707 festivals 27, 95, 246 open-air cinema 117 Filopappou Hill 79 Finiki 488 Fira 380-5, 382 fish spas 384 Fiskardo 657-8 flora 717-18 Florina 270-2 Folegandros 392-6, 393 folk music 708 folklore museumsFolk Museum (Agios Nikolaos) 453 Folk Museum (Naxos) 354 Folk Museum (Orestiada)
283
Folk Museum (Xanthi) 276 Folklore Museum (Aegina
Town) 304 Folklore Museum (Agios
Georgios) 463 Folklore Museum
(Ioannina) 287 Folklore Museum
(Naoussa) 349 Folklore Museum of the
Northern Sporades 620
Greek Folk Art Museum (Athens) 86-7 Historical & Folk Art
Museum (Rethymno) 433
Historical & Folklore Museum of Kalamata 166
Kastorian Museum of Folklore 273 Korgialenio History &
Folklore Museum 653 Manos Faltaïts Folk
Museum 624 Milos Folk & History
Museum 400 Museum of Folk Art
(Makrinitsa) 211 Mykonos Folklore Museum 337 Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum 142 Fonias River 588 food 12, 21, 23-4, 46-50, 596, 711-15, 12, 48, 596, 597, see also individual locations bread 548 children, travel with
57, 715 cooking courses 47-8, 625 etiquette 21, 50 festivals 47, 304, 714-15 markets 47, 108, 245, 442, 46 olives 168, 574 street food 106 tsipouradhika 208 tyropita 622 vegetarian travellers 715 zaharoplasteia 250 football 58, 723 forests 718
Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) 693
fortresses, see also castles Akronafplia Fortress 141 Bourtzi 141-2 Byzantine Fortress (Komotini) 278 Fortezza (Rethymno) 432
Fortress of Agia Mavra 648
Fortress of Drakanos 544 Fortress of Larissa 137 Fortress of Trikala 218-19 Frangokastello 447 Frankish Kastro (Parikia)
346-7
Frankish Kastro (Plaka) 400
Kales Fortress 461 Kastro (Kalamata) 166 Koules Venetian Fortress
421 Lamia 204 Methoni 170-1 Monemvasia 155-6 Mystras 153-5, 153 Mytilini Town 569-70 Neo Frourio 635 Palaio Frourio 634 Palamidi Fortress 141 Venetian Fort (Sitia) 459 Fourni Islands 548-9, 542-3 Frangokastello 447 frescoes Iraklio Archaeological Museum 420 Meteora 221, 222 National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 96 Palace of Knossos 426-7, 428, 426-7 Fry 491
G
Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 462 Gaïos 644 Galaxidi 199-200 galleries, see alsomuseums Art Space 388 Athens 93 Cultural Foundation of Tinos 326 Diexodos Museum – Picture Gallery 202 Fish & Olive 360 Koumantarios Gallery of
Sparta 152 Municipal Art Gallery of
Larisa 206 National Gallery – Alexandros Soutzos Museum 142 National Museum of Contemporary Art 89 New Art Gallery (Rhodes
Town) 471 Patmos Gallery 530 Popotech Workshop 212 Theocharakis Foundation
for the Fine Arts & Music 93 gardens, see parks &
gardens Gavdos Island 452-3 Gavrio 322 gay travellers 729 Athens 115 festivals 576 Mykonos 340 Gennadi 483 geography 716-17 geology 222 Gerolimenas 162 Gialos 496-7 Gialova 172-3 Gialova Lagoon 173 Glossa 617 Glyfada 91
gods 696-7, 698, see also mythology, individual
gods
golf 640 gorges
Agia Irini Gorge 450 Dimosari Gorge 609 Imbros Gorge 450 Langada Gorge 156 Rouvas Gorge 430 Samaria Gorge 13, 448-9, 13, 55, 233 Vale of Tembi 206 Vikos Gorge 15, 293, 15 Vouraïkos Gorge 183 Vyros Gorge 164 Zakros Gorge 461 Gortyna 430 Gournia 457-8 Gramvousa Peninsula 446 grand promenade (Athens) 81 ‘Great Idea’ campaign
686, 690 Greek Civil War 689-90 Greek language 692, 742-8 Gythio 158-9
H
Hades 696 Hadrian’s Arch 82 Hadrian’s Library 81 Halki (Dodecanese) 483-5 Halki (Naxos) 360 Halkida 605-6 Halkidiki Peninsula 16, 256-63 hammams, see Turkishbaths Hania 439-45, 440-1 health 729-30 Hellenic Festival 26, 95 Hellenistic age 680 Hephaestus 697 Hera 696 Heracles 698 Heraklion, see Iraklio Hermes 697 Herodotus 676 Hestia 697 hiking 23, 52, 53-4 Alonnisos 620 Amorgos 371 Andros 325 Areopoli 161 Arkadia 148 Corfu 640 Delphi 192-3 Dimosari Gorge 609-10 Fourni Islands 548 Ghria Vathra Canyon
(Samothraki) 587 Hydra 314 Ikaria 544 Imbros Gorge 450 Ithaki 659 Iti National Park 205 Kalymnos 519 Kardamyli 164 Karystos 608 Kefallonia 656
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hiking continued Konitsa 294-5 Mani 16 Meteora 223 Milos 400 Mt Kaliakouda 203 Mt Olympus 266 Mylopotamos 668 Parnassos National Park 197 Pelion Peninsula 215 Plakias 437 Psara 567 Renes Bay 628 Rethymno 433 Rouvas Gorge 430 Samaria Gorge 13, 448-9, 13, 55, 233 Samos 556 Samothraki 584 Sifnos 405 Skiathos 614 Skopelos 618 Skyros 625 Steni 606 Symi 496 Thasos 593 Tilos 499-500 Vikos Gorge 293 Zakros Gorge 461 Hill of the Pnyx 80 Hippocrates 471, 505 Hippocrates Plane Tree507 history 674-95
Alexander the Great 190, 680-2, 681 Athens 66-70 Balkan Wars 686, 689 books 144, 676, 677, 678, 685, 689, 700 Byzantine Empire 67, 682-3 Crete 415 Crusades, the 682-3, 684 Cyprus issue 683, 690-1, 692
Greek Civil War 689-90 internet resources 694 Macedon 680-2 Minoan civilisation 387, 415, 674, 675 Mycenaean civilisation 675 Ottoman era 67, 683-4 Peloponnesian Wars 678-80 Persian Wars 677-8 Roman era 67, 681, 682 Sparta 67, 677, 679 Venetians, the 683, 684 War of Independence 684, 686 WWI 687, 690 WWII 688-9, 691 hitching 740 holidays 731 Homer birthplace 563 grave 377 House of Homer 660 literary works 675, 676 stone chair 562 tours of sites 659, 660 Hora (Amorgos) 370 Hora (Andros) 323-4 Hora (Astypalea) 514-16 Hora (Folegandros) 394-5 Hora (Ios) 373-6 Hora (Kythira) 667 Hora (Kythnos) 410 Hora (Mykonos) 337-42, 338, 24, 28-9, 49 Hora (Naxos) 354-9, 356 Hora (Patmos) 530-1 Hora (Samothraki) 585-6 Hora (Serifos) 408 Hora (Tinos) 326-8 Hora Sfakion 447-8 Horefto 213 horse riding Corfu 640 Kalymnos 521 Konitsa 295 Naoussa 349 Naxos 354-5 Thasos 592 horses, Skyrian 627 Horto 218 hostels 727 hot springs, see also
thermal baths, Turkish baths Agios Kirykos 541-2 Eftalou 575 Lefkada 543 Loutra (Therma) 587 Milos 401 Polyhnitos 578 Santorini (Thira) 380 Therma 544 hotels 727 hunting 719 Hydra (island) 14, 229, 309-15, 309, 14, 228 Hydra (mythology) 696 Hydra Town 310-14, 312, 14, 228
I
Icarus 698 Ierapetra 461-2 Igoumenitsa 296 Ikaria 231, 540-9, 542-3, 601 ‘Iliad’, the 139, 158, 675, 676 Imbros Gorge 450 immigration 673, 723, 732-3, 734 Inousses 565-6 insurance car 739 health 729-30 International Trade Fair 246 internet access 730 internet resources 19 activities 55 air travel 41 Athens 118, 120 boat travel 40-1 food 715 history 694 wildlife 716 Ioannina 285-9, 288 Ionian Islands 62, 629-70, 630, 51 accommodation 629 climate 629 food 629 highlights 630 planning 629 travel seasons 629 Ionic columns 702, 703, 703 Ios 372-7, 373 Ioulida 412 Iraklia 363-4 Iraklio 418-25, 420 Iraklio market 422 Ireon 555 island hopping 12, 34-41, 303, 321, see also boat travel, cruising Island, the (To Nisi) 289-90 Ithaki 658-61, 652 Iti National Park 205 Itilo 160 itineraries 28-33, 28, 30, 33 Athens 66 cruising 43-4J
jackals 719 jazz music 95, 117 Juno 696 Jupiter 696K
Kalamata 166-8, 167 Kalamata olives 168 Kalambaka 223-5, 220 Kalamitsa 627-8 Kalavryta 184-5 Kalymnos 517-22, 518, 12 Kamares 403-4 Kamari 512-13 Kamariotissa 584-5 Kanaris, Konstantinos 566, 567 Kapsali 667-8 Karamanlis, Kostas 693, 694 Karavostamo 547-8 Karavostasis 393-4 Kardamyli 164-6 Karitena 150 Karpathos 485-90, 485, 233 Karpenisi 202-3 Karystos 608-9 Kasos 490-2, 490 Kassandra Peninsula 256 Kassiopi 640, 37 Kastellorizo (Megisti) 492-4 Kastellorizo Village 492-4 Kastoria 272-4 Kastraki 225-6, 220 Kastro (Sifnos) 405 Katapola 367-70 Kathisma beach 649, 230-1 Kato Zakros 460-1 Kavala 263-4 kayaking, see alsowhite-water rafting Alonnisos 620 Arkadia 148 Chios 564 Evia 608 Kefallonia 656 Konitsa 295 Lefkada 649 Milos 402 Nestos River 277 Paros 350 Vikos Gorge 293 Kazantzakis, Nikos 423, 689 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
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Kea (Tzia) 411-13, 411 Kefallonia 651-8, 652, 30-1 Kefalos Bay 512-13 Keramikos 80-1 Keros 365 Kimolos 402, 400 King Otto 685, 686, 687 Kissamos 445-6 Kissos 213 Kita 162 kiteboarding 350, 352 kitesurfing 52, 359, 483, 485, see also windsurfing kitron 360, 361 Klima 401 Klisova Lagoon 201, 202 Knights’ Quarter (RhodesTown) 471-3 Knossos 14, 425-8, 689, 701, 425, 14, 426-7 Komotini 278-9 Konitsa 294-5 Korissia 411-12 Koroni 169-70 Kos 230, 505-13, 506 Kos Town 507-11, 508-9 Koufonisia 365-6 Krithoni 526-7 Kritsa 457 Kyllini 179 Kymi 606-7 Kynouria 149-50 Kypris, Yorgos 386 Kythira 665-70, 666 Kythnos 409-11, 409
L
Ladadika 22 laïka music 708 lakes Lake Orestiada 272 Limni Vouliagmenis 92 Prespa Lakes 271 Sacred Lake 397 Lakka 645 Lakki 525 Lakonia 150-9 Lakonian Mani 160-3, 16 Lambrakis, Grigoris 691 Lamia 204-5 Langada Pass 156 language 692, 742-8 courses 92, 333, 548, 571 whistling language 609 Larisa 206-7 Lasinthos Eco-Park 463 Lasithi Plateau 463-4 Lavrio 127 Laws of Gortyna 430 Lefkada 231, 646-50, 647, 230-1 Lefkada Town 648 Lefkes 350 Lefkos 488 legal matters 730 Leonidio 149-50 Leros 522-7, 523 lesbian travellers 729 Athens 115 festivals 576 Mykonos 340 Lesvos (Mytilini) 229, 568-79, 568, 229 Limeni 161-2 Limni 608 Limni Vouliagmenis 92 Limnos 579-83, 579, 232 Linaria 627 Lindos 479-81 Lipsi 532-5, 533 Lipsi Village 533-5 literature 423, 641, 672,707-8, see also books Litohoro 264-6 Little Cyclades 362-6, 362 Livadi (Cyclades) 407-8 Livadi (Dodecanese) 516 Livadia 499-501 live music 116-17, 710 loggerhead turtles 664, 720, 233 Loggos 645 Lourdata 653, 30-1 Loutra (Therma) 587-8 Loutra Edipsou 607-8 Loutraki 617 Loutro 449 Lykavittos Hill 89-91
M
Macedonia 237-74, 238 Macedonia, Former Yugoslav Republic of (FYROM) 693 Magazia (Paxi) 645 Magazia (Skyros) 626-7 Makrinitsa 211-12 Malia 429 Mandraki 502-4 Mani, the 16, 159-66, 16 maps 730 Marathi 535-6 Marathon 127-9 Marathonisi Islet 158 maritime museums Aegean Maritime Museum 337 Hellenic Maritime Museum 124 Maritime Museum (Oia)385 Maritime Museum of Crete 442 Nautical Historical Museum 199 Nautical Museum (Gialos) 496 Nautical Museum of Inousses 565 Permanent Collection of
Ancient & Traditional Shipbuilding 442 markets 24, 47
Agora (Hania) 442 Central Market (Athens)
108, 118, 46 flea market (Potamos)
668 Iraklio 422 Modiano Market
(Thessaloniki) 245 Monastiraki Flea Market
(Athens) 118 Open Market (Xanthi)
276 Mars 697 Masouri 521 Mastihari 512 Mastihohoria 563 Matala 430-2, 234 mayirefta 711-12 measures 731 medical services 729 Athens 120 Corfu Town 639 Kos Town 511 Mykonos 342 Rhodes Town 479 Medusa 696, 698 Megalo Horio 501 Meganisi 650-1 Menetes 487-8 Mercury 697 Merihas 409-10 Messinia 166-74 Messinian Mani 163-6 Messolongi 201-2 Mesta 563-4 Meteora 9, 220-3, 599, 220, 9, 598-9 Methoni 170-1 Metsovo 286 mezedhes 712 Milies 217 Milina 218 Milos 398-402, 400 Minerva, see Athena Minoan civilisation 387, 415, 674, 675, 701-2 Minotaur 696 mobile phones 18, 732 Mohlos 458 Molos 626-7 Molyvos (Mithymna) 573-5 monasteries & convents
Convent of Galataki 608 Convent of Pantanassa 154 Holy Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi 530 Mantamados 573 Meteora 9, 220-3, 599, 220, 9, 598-9 Monastery of Perivleptos 154 Monastery of St John the
Theologian 530, 600 Monastery of the Apocalypse 530 Monastery of Vlatadon 243 Monastery of Zygou 259 Moni Agias Lavras 185 Moni Agias Varvaras
Rousanou 222, 9, 598-9
Moni Agiou Gerasimou 655 Moni Arkadiou 435 Moni Dafniou 88 Moni Evangelistrias 613 Moni Faneromenis 648 Moni Filanthropinon 290 Moni Hozoviotissis 370-1 Moni Megalou Spileou
183
Moni Metamorfosis 199 Moni Osios Loukas
198-9 Moni Panagias
Kounistras 613 Moni Panagias
Proussiotissas 203 Moni Panagias Spilianis
554 Moni Preveli 437-8 Moni Taxiarhon 408 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail
Panormiti 498 Moni Toplou 460 Moni Tsoukas 290 Moni Ypsilou 575-6 Mt Athos (Agion Oros)
16, 259-63, 259, 11, 16 Nea Moni 562
758
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monasteries & convents
continued Skopelos 617-18 Timios Prodromos Convent 170 Vrontokhion Monastery 155 Monemvasia 155-7 money 18, 19, 21, 728, 730-1 Moni Arkadiou 435 Moni Dafniou 88 Moni Hozoviotissis 370-1 Moni Osios Loukas 198-9 Moni Preveli 437-8 Moni Toplou 460 monk seals 620, 621, 720 Monodendri 292 mosques
Aslan Pasha Mosque 287 Bayezit’s Mosque 282, 684 Fetiye Cami 286 Koursoun Tzami 219 Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan 439 Mosque of Murad Reis
473 Mosque of Süleyman 473 Neratzes Mosque 433 Yeni Tzami 571 mosquitoes 729 motorcycle travel to/from Athens 121 within Greece 738-40 mountain biking, see also
cycling Corfu 640 Evia 608 Kardamyli 165 Konitsa 295 Skopelos 616 Thasos 591-2 Vikos Gorge 293 mountain refuges 55, 727 mountaineering Crete 443 Iti National Park 205 Konitsa 295 Litohoro 265 mountains Kelaria 197 Mt Athos 260 Mt Dirfys 606 Mt Eros 314 Mt Kaliakouda 203 Mt Kerkis 556 Mt Kynthos 397 Mt Ohi 609 Mt Olympus 266 Mt Pantokrator 639 Mt Parnitha 127 Mt Profitis Ilias 164 Mt Psiloritis 436 Mt Ypsario 593 Mt Zeus 359 Mouressi 214 movies, see film Mt Athos (Agion Oros) 16,
259-63, 259, 11, 16 museums 23, see also
archaeological museums, Byzantine museums, folklore museums, maritime museums Acropolis Museum 78-9 Ali Pasha Museum 290 Antivouniotissa Museum
634-5
Art of Silk Museum 282 Bee Museum 481-2 Benaki Museum 88-9 Botsari Museum 200 Bouboulina’s Museum 316 Christos Capralos Museum 305 Church Museum (Mandraki) 503 Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum 354 Delphi Museum 192 Ecclesiastical Art Museum of Alexandroupoli 279 Ecclesiastical Museum (Komotini) 278 Ecclesiastical Museum of Milos 399 Epigraphical Museum 89 Ethnological Museum of Thrace 279 Hellenic Children’s Museum 94 Herakleidon Museum 88 Historical Archives Museum of Hydra 311 Historical Museum of Crete 421 Industrial Museum of Ermoupoli 332 Jewish Museum (Athens) 87 Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki 246 Kanellopoulos Museum 86 Karystos Museum 608 Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion 310 Megaro Gyzi Museum
380 Military Museum
(Kalamata) 166 Milos Mining Museum
399 Mineralogical Museum 127 Mitropolis Museum 354 Municipal Ethnographic Museum (Ioannina) 287 Municipal Museum of Kavala 263 Museum of Ancient Greek Music 386 Museum of Asian Art
635 Museum of Contemporary Art (Andros) 323-4 Museum of Cretan Ethnology 431 Museum of Cycladic Art 89 Museum of Greek Children’s Art 94 Museum of Greek Popular Instruments 89
Museum of History & Art (Messolongi) 202 Museum of
Industrial Olive Oil Production 574 Museum of Islamic
Art 81 Museum of Marble
Crafts 328 Museum of Modern Art
(Florina) 270 Museum of Popular Art 404 Museum of Prehistoric Thira 380 Museum of Solomos 663 Museum of the Decorative Arts 471 Museum of the History
of Excavations in Olympia 175 Museum of the History
of the Olympic Games in Antiquity 175 Museum of the Kalavryta
Holocaust 184 Museum of the Macedonian Struggle 244
Museum of the Memorial of the Refugees of 1922 573
Museum of the Olive (Pelion Peninsula) 216 Museum of the Olive
& Greek Olive Oil (Sparta) 152 National Historical
Museum (Athens) 87 Natural History Museum
(Iraklio) 421 Natural History Museum
of the Lesvos Petrified Forest 576 Neolithic Museum of Diros 162 Nikolopoulos Andritsena Library 178-9 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 423 Noesis Science Center &
Technology Museum 246
Old Radio Museum 218 Open-Air Water Power
Museum 149 Paragaea Olive Oil
Museum 297 Pelion Peninsula 212 Pikoulakis Tower House
Museum 161 René Puaux Exhibition 172 Shadow Theatre Museum 158 Spetses Museum 316 Teriade Museum 571 Theophilos Museum 211, 571 Thessaloniki Museum of Photography 244-6 Tsalapatas Brickworks Museum 207 Volcanological Museum (Nikea) 505 Vrana Olive-Press Museum 574 War Museum (Athens)
94
War Museum (Lakki) 525 War Museum (Nafplio)
142
Water Museum 269 wine museum (Epanomi)
255 music 24, 708-10 festivals 26, 95, 142, 246, 273, 542, 623 live music 116-17 Mycenae 137-9 Mycenaean civilisation 675, 702 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
759
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-P
Mykonos 335-43, 336, 24, 28-9, 49 Mylopotamos 216, 668 Mylopotas 373-6 Myrina 580-2, 232 Myrties 521 Myrtos (Crete) 462-3 Myrtos (Kefallonia) 657 Mystras 153-5, 153 mythology 67, 158, 471, 626, 696-8, see also gods, individual gods Mytilini Town 569-73, 570N
Nafpaktos 200-1 Nafplio 139-45, 140 name days 601, 723 Naoussa 348-50 National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 88, 96, 96national parks & reserves 717
Dadia Forest Reserve 281-2
Iti National Park 205 Mt Parnitha National
Park 127 National Marine Park of
Alonnisos-Northern Sporades 620 National Marine Park of
Zakynthos 664 Parnassos National Park 197 Vikos-Aoös National Park 291 Naxos 231, 352-62, 352, 231 Neapoli 157-8 Negades 292 Nekromanteio of Afyra 299 neoclassicism 705 Neptune 969 newspapers 731 Nikea 504-5 Nikopoli 297 Nisyros 501-5, 502, 32-3 northeastern Aegean Islands 62, 538-94, 539 accommodation 538 climate 538 food 538 highlights 539 planning 538 travel seasons 538 northern Greece 60, 235-99, 236 accommodation 235 climate 235 food 235 highlights 236 planning 235 travel seasons 235
O
Odeon of Herodes Atticus 78, 602, 602 Odysseus 471, 532, 626, 658, 660, 696 ‘Odyssey’, the 660, 532, 675, 676 Oedipus 698 Oedipus crossroads 197 Oia 385-7, 5, 10 olives 168, 574 Olymbos 17, 489-90, 17, 233 Olympia 174-9 Olympic Games 70, 175, 677, 689, 693, 693 ancient stadium (Olympia) 176 Archaeological Museum of Olympia 175-6 Museum of the History
of Excavations in Olympia 175 Museum of the History
of the Olympic Games in Antiquity 175 Panathenaic Stadium 82 opening hours 19, 727, 729 oracle of Delphi 191, 700 Orestiada 282-3 Ormos 373-6 Otto, King 685, 686, 687 Ottoman era 67, 683-4, 704-5 ouzo 49
P
painting courses 620 palaces Achillion Palace 641 Agia Triada 429 Malia 429 Nestor’s Palace 173-4 Palace of Galerius 242-3 Palace of Knossos 14, 425-8, 689, 701, 425, 14, 426-7 Palace of St Michael &St George 634 Palace of the Grand
Masters 472 Phaestos 429 Tiryns 145 Vergina 268 Zakros Palace 460-1 Paleohora (Aegina) 305 Paleohora (Crete) 451-2 Pali 505 Paliki Peninsula 655-6 Palio Trikeri 218 Panagia Drosiani 361 Panathenaic Procession 78 Panathenaic Stadium 82 Pandeli 525 Papandreou, Andreas 692 Papandreou, Georgios 691, 694 Papingo villages 292-3 Paralia Kymis 606-7 Parga 297-9 Parikia 345-8, 346 parks & gardens, see
also national parks &
reserves Garden of the Heroes
201-2
Mon Repos Estate 635 National Gardens 82 Serpentine Organic
Garden 215 Zappeio Gardens 82 Parliament 86 Parnassos National Park
197 Paros 343-50, 344-5 Parthenon 75-6, 8, 73 Pasha, Ali 286, 290 passports 732-3, 734 Patitiri 619-21 Patmos 527-32, 528 Patra (Patras) 180-3, 181, 600-1 Patras Carnival 180, 600-1 Pausanias 144 Pax Romana 680, 681, 682 Paxi 643-5, 644, 232 Peania 129 pelicans, Dalmatian 201, 719-20 Pelion Peninsula 209-18, 210 Pella 268 Peloponnese 59, 130-86, 132-3 accommodation 130 climate 130 food 130 highlights 132 history 131 planning 130 travel seasons 130 travel to/from 131, 134 Peloponnesian Wars 678-80 pensions 727 Pera Kastro 520 Perdika 305-6 Perseus 698 Persian Wars 677-8 Petaloudes 482 Petra 575
petrified forest (Lesvos) 576 Phaestos 429 Philip II 681 philosophy 699 phonecards 732 photography 21, 731 Pigadia 486-7 Pinakates 216 Piraeus 124-6, 124 Plaka 399-401 Plaka Litohorou 264-6 Plakias 436-7 planning 18-19, 20-1, see
also individual regions
activities 51-5 budgeting 19 calendar of events 25-7 children, travel with 56-8 climate 18, 25-7 cruising 42-5 food 46-50 Greece’s regions 59-62 internet resources 19 island hopping 34-41 itineraries 28-33 repeat visitors 22 travel seasons 18, 25-7 plants 717-18 Platanias 218 Platanos 524-5 politics 672-3, 722-3 Pollonia 401 Polygonal Wall (Ancient
Delphi) 195, 195 Polyhnitos 578-9 Pomakohoria 277 population 673, 723 Poros 307-9, 307 Poros Town 308-9 Poseidon 696 postal services 731 Potamos 668 Pothia 518-20 pottery 381 Prespa Lakes 271 Preveli Beach 14, 438-64, 14 Preveza 295-7 Prince Philip 692 Propylaia 74-5 Psara 566-8
760
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Psili Ammos 556 Psyhro 463-4 public holidays 731 Pyli 512 Pylos 171-2 Pyrgi 563 Pythagoras 556 Pythagorio 553-5R
Rafina 126 rafting, see kayaking,white-water rafting reiki courses 624 religion 673, 683, 723-4 rembetika 116, 623, 708, 709 rental accommodation 727 reserves, see national
parks & reserves Rethymno 432-5, 432 Rhodes 229, 467-83, 468 Rhodes Town 11, 470-9, 472, 11, 228-9 Rina 522 road distances 739 road hazards 740 road rules 740 rock climbing 164, 223, 519 Rock of the Sibyl (Ancient
Delphi) 195, 195 Roman era 67, 681, 682 Roman sites, see also
archaeological sites, temples, tombs Argos 137 catacombs (Trypiti) 400 Gortyna 430 Hadrian’s Arch 82 Hadrian’s Library 81 Nikopoli 297 Palace, Arch & Rotunda
of Galerius 242-3 Roman Agora (Athens) 80 Roman Agora (Thessaloniki) 243 Roman baths (Athens) 82 Roman baths (Loutraki)
617
Roman cistern (Lefkos) 488
Roman quarry (Evia) 609 Tallaras Roman baths
516
S
Sacred Way (Ancient Delphi) 191-2, 194, 194 safe travel 19, 731
Athens 119 car travel 738, 740 children, travel with 57 drinking water 407, 730 environmental hazards 729 hitching 740 reptiles 719 women travellers 733 sailing & yachting 43,
732, 741 Corfu 640 Ios 374 Kos 511 Milos 399 Skiathos 611 Symi 497 Syros 332 Thasos 592 Salonika, see Thessaloniki Samaria Gorge 13, 448-9, 13, 55, 233 Sami 656-7 Samos 549-57, 550-1 Samothraki 583-8, 584 San Michalis 334 Sanctuaries of the Foreign
Gods 396 Sanctuary of Apollo 189-91 Sanctuary of Artemis 129 Sanctuary of Athena Halkioitou 151 Sanctuary of Athena Pronea 191 Sanctuary of Egyptian Gods 146 Sanctuary of the Great
Gods 586-7 Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi
582
Sanctuary of Zeus Hypistos 266 Sanctuary to Isis 266 Sangri 361 Santorini (Thira) 10, 229, 230, 377-89, 378, 5, 10, 228, 231
Saronic Gulf Islands 60, 300-18, 301 accommodation 300 climate 300 food 300 highlights 301 internet resources 304 island hopping 303 planning 300 travel seasons 300 scams 119 Schinousa 364-5 scuba diving, see diving &
snorkelling sculpture 699 seals, monk 620, 621, 720 senior travellers 728 Serifos 406-9, 407 Shipwreck Beach 664, 227 shopping 24, see also
markets, individual locations antiques 612 beer 253 embroidery 640 handicrafts 119, 253, 280, 289 iconography 478 musical instruments 253 pottery 455 wine 144 shrines, see temples Sifnos 402-6, 403 Sikinos 391-2, 391 Sithonian Peninsula 256-8 Sitia 459-60 Skala (Angistri) 306-7 Skala (Astypalea) 514-16 Skala (Patmos) 528-30 Skala Eresou 576-7 Skiathos 610-14, 611 Skiathos Town 610-13 skiing 55 Kalavryta 186 Karpenisi 202 Metsovo 286 Mt Vermio 267 Parnassos National Park 197 Vikos Gorge 293 Skopelos 614-18, 615 Skopelos Town 615-17 Skyrian horses 627 Skyros 623-8, 624 Skyros Carnival 626 Skyros Town 623-6 smoking regulations 731 Smyrna 687 snakes 719, 729 snorkelling, see diving &
snorkelling soccer 58, 723 Socrates 679, 680 Solon 676, 677 Soufli 282 Sougia 450-1 Sparta 150-3, 151 Spartans, the 67, 677, 679 Spetses 315-18, 315 Spetses Town 316-18 Spili 436 Spinalonga Island 457, 34 Sporades, the 62, 610-28, 604 accommodation 603 climate 603 food 603 highlights 604 planning 603 travel seasons 603 sporting events, see also
Olympic Games Athens Classic Marathon 22 Half-Marathon (Skyros) 624 Ikaria International Chess Tournament 542 International Mountain Biking Race 591-2 Kalymnos Skandalopetra Diving Festival 519 North Face Kalymnos
Climbing Festival 519 sports 723, see also
individual sports
St John the Divine 531 Stemnitsa 148 Steni 606
Sterea Ellada 188-206, 190 Stoupa 163-4
surfing 52, 329, see also kitesurfing, windsurfing swallows 381
Symi 494-8, 495 synagogues
Etz Hayyim Synagogue 442 Halkida 605 Kahal Shalom Synagogue 473 Monastirioton Synagogue 246 Syros 329-35, 330 syrtaki 710
T
taxis 741 Athens 123 Thessaloniki 255 Telendos Islet 521-2 telephone services 18, 732 temples & sanctuaries598-9 Erechtheion 76, 599 Parthenon 75-6, 8, 73 Map Pages 000
761
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Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods 396 Sanctuary of Apollo 189-91 Sanctuary of Artemis 129 Sanctuary of Athena Halkioitou 151 Sanctuary of Athena Pronea 191 Sanctuary of Egyptian Gods 146 Sanctuary of the GreatGods 586-7 Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi 582 Sanctuary of Zeus Hypistos 266 Sanctuary to Isis 266 Temple of Aphaia 305 Temple of Aphrodite (Acrocorinth) 135 Temple of Aphrodite (Dodoni) 290 Temple of Aphrodite (Rhodes Town) 471 Temple of Apollo (Aegina
Town) 304 Temple of Apollo (Ancient Corinth) 134 Temple of Apollo (Ancient Delphi) 191, 195, 195, 599 Temple of Artemis 635 Temple of Asclepius (Asklipieion) 512 Temple of Asclepius (Epidavros) 146 Temple of Athena Nike
73, 75, 73 Temple of Demeter 361 Temple of Dionysos (Vatera) 578 Temple of Epicurean Apollo at Vasses 179 Temple of Hera 177 Temple of Olympian Zeus 82 Temple of Poseidon (Athens) 72, 72 Temple of Poseidon (Cape Sounion) 127 Temple of Zeus (Ancient
Nemea) 136 Temple of Zeus (Olympia) 176 Temple to Athena (Ancient Kamiros) 482 Temple to Athena (Lindos) 480 Thasos 588-94, 589 Thasos (Limenas) 590-1 theatre 699 theatre festivals 95, 146, 542 theatres 602, 697 Ancient Corinth 135 Ancient Delos 397 Ancient Delphi 191, 195, 195 Ancient Sparta 151 Larisa 206 National Theatre 117 Odeon of Herodes Atticus 78, 602, 602 Olympia Theatre 117 Theatre of Dodoni 290 Theatre of Dionysos 76-8 Theatre of Epidavros 146, 30-1 Themistocles’ Wall 72, 72 thermal baths, see also hot
springs, Turkish baths Loutra (Kythnos) 410 Loutra Edipsou 607 Rhodes 479 Thermes 277 Thermopylae 204 Theseus 698 Thessaloniki 13, 22, 239-55, 240-1, 13, 681 accommodation 247-8 drinking 250-3 entertainment 253 festivals 246-7 food 248-50 shopping 253 sights 239-46 tours 246 travel information 253-4 travel to/from 254-5 travel within 255 walking tour 244-5, 245 Thessaly 206-26, 207 Thira, see Santorini Thirasia 389 Thiva (Thebes) 188-9 Thrace 274-84, 275 Tilos 498-501, 499 time 18, 732 Tinos 325-9, 327 tipping 21, 45, 731 Tiryns 145 Titans, the 471 To Nisi 289-90 To Trenaki 217 toilets 732
tombs, see also cemeteries Citadel of Mycenae 138 Dimini 209 Lycian tomb (Kastellorizo) 493 Marathon Tomb 129 Mikri Doxipara 283 Roussa 281 Royal Tombs (Vergina)
268 Street of Tombs 81 Tomb of Ali Pasha 286 Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier 86 tourist information 732 tourist police 731 Tourlida 202
tours 741, see also walking tours, individual
locations
Tower of the Winds 80 trade fairs 246 Tragaea 359 train travel
Diakofto–Kalavryta Railway 183 Little Train of Pelion 216 To Trenaki 217 to/from Athens 121-2 to/from Greece 735-6 to/from Thessaloniki 254-5 within Greece 741 travellers cheques 731 Treasury of Atreus 138 trekking, see hiking Trikala 218-20 Triopetra 438-64 Tris Boukes Bay 628 Trypiti 399-401 Tsagarada 214-16
tsipouradhika 208
Turkish baths, see also hot springs, thermal baths Bey Hamam 246 Hammam (Patra) 180 Hammam Turkish Baths
(Rhodes Town) 473 Therma 582 Turkish Baths (Athens) 81 Yeni Hamam 246 turtles, loggerhead 664, 720, 233 Tyhero 281 tyropita 622 Tzermiado 463
V
vacations 731 Vaï beach 460, 32-3 Valley of the Butterflies482
Valley of the Dead 460 Vasiliki 649 Vatera 578-9 Vathia 163, 16 Vathy (Ithaki) 659-60 Vathy (Samos) 551-3, 552 Vathys 522 vegetarian travellers 715 Venetians, the 683, 684 Venizelos, Eleftherios 686, 687, 688 Venus, see Aphrodite Vergina 268 Veria 267-8 Vesta 697 Vidos Island 635 Vikos Gorge 15, 293, 15 visas 18, 732-3, 734 Vitsa 292 Vlach people 286 volcanoes 717 Fira 380 Nisyros 504, 32-3 Volcanological Museum 505 Volos 207-9 volunteering 733 Vravrona 129 Vromolithos 525 Vulcan 697 Vyzitsa 216
W
walking, see hiking walking tours
Athens 98-9, 99 Thessaloniki 244-5, 245 wars & battles
Balkan Wars 686, 689 Battle of Chaeronea 681 Battle of Lepanto 200 Battle of Leuctra 679, 680 Battle of Marathon 127-9, 676, 677 Battle of Navarino 171, 684, 687 Battle of Plataea 678 Battle of Pydna 682 Battle of Thermopylae 204, 674, 679 Greek Civil War 689-90 Peloponnesian Wars 678-80 Persian Wars 677-8 War of Independence 684, 686 WWI 687, 690 WWII 688-9, 691
762
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-Z
water (drinking) 407, 730 waterfalls Edessa 269 Fonias rock pools 588 Paradeisos Waterfalls587 waterskiing 52-3, 374 weather 18, 25-7, see also
individual regions
websites, see internet resources weights 731 whistling language 609 White Tower 239-42 white-water rafting 53, see
also kayaking Arkadia 148 Konitsa 295 Nestos River 277 Vikos Gorge 293 wildflowers 717-18 wildlife 716-20, see also
individual species
wildlife watching, see birdwatching, dolphin watching windsurfing 52, see also
kitesurfing, surfing Corfu 640 Mykonos 342 Naxos 354 Paros 350 Syros 332 wine 714 wine festivals 26, 533, 609 wineries Embonas 482 Fira 380-1 Ikaria 546 Iraklio 428 Kefallonia 655 Mercouri Estate 179 Naoussa 348 Nemea region 136 Rhodes 482 Santorini (Thira) 380-1 Sikinos 392 Thessaloniki 255 Vathy (Samos) 551 wolves 719 women travellers 733 work 733 World Heritage sites
Acropolis (Athens) 9, 71-6, 598, 74, 8-9, 72-3, 599 Ancient Delos 396-8, 598, 397, 40 Ancient Delphi 10, 189-91, 599, 10, 194-5, 599 Ancient Mycenae 137-9, 138 Ancient Olympia 17, 176-7, 176, 17 Epidavros 145-7, 30-1 Ireon 555 Meteora 9, 220-3, 599, 220, 9, 598-9 Moni Dafniou 88 Moni Osios Loukas
198-9
Mt Athos (Agion Oros) 16, 259-63, 259, 11, 16 Mystras 153-5, 153 Nea Moni 562 Royal Tombs (Vergina)
268 Temple of Epicurean Apollo at Vasses 179 Tiryns 145 WWI 687, 690 WWII 688-9, 691
X
Xanthi 22, 276-7 Xanthi winter carnival276 Xirokambos 526
Y
yachting, see sailing & yachting yoga courses 349, 573, 620 yoghurt 713
Z
Zagora 212 Zagorohoria, the 15, 290-4, 291, 15 zaharoplasteia 250 Zahlorou 183 Zakros 460-1 Zakynthos 661-5, 662, 24, 227 Zakynthos Town 662-3 Zaros 430 Zerzova 149 Zeus 169, 696 zoos 94 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000763
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764
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OUR READERS
Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes:
Alan Graham, Andy White, Anette Uddqvist, Anita Vriend, Apostolos Spyros,Christopher Hansen,David Mason, Dimitris Efstratiadis, Eberhard Zantke, Efrat Ben Shalom, Ester van Zuylen,George & Linda Moss, George Moss, Jeroen Meeboer, Jesse Naiman, Jim Maas, JJ Wytrwal, Joske de Roode, Judith Bowman, Ka-tarzyna Podgorska, Katy Tydeman, Kit Arthur, Lia Spartali, Linda Swinn, Lorna Hitchin, Marina Metalios, Marjatta Reinius, Martijn Huijnen, Martin Kummel, Megan van Rooyen, Melike Sayman,Nicola Long,Philip Howard, Ralf Kaefer, Roland Keller, Roy Sayegh,Sofia Lizzio, Stephen Lioy, Stephen Strand, Susan Howard,Walter Lars
AUTHOR THANKS
Korina Miller
An enormous thank you to Mum and Dad for minding the fort while I was away and making it possible for me to take this project on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, Simone and Monique, for letting me work and also encour-aging me to take breaks. Thank you to Katie, Anna, Angela and Anthony at Lonely Planet for
their support and to my co-authors for their insights and camaraderie. A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the road – both locals and travellers – who shared their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for Greece. And to Kirk, my own personal Bukowski.
Kate Armstrong
In the Pelops, my warmest thanks yet again to Petros and the Zotos family for their support, and to Vaso, Nena and Koula, dear friends; in Central Greece, Alexandra Groth, Yiannis and Soyla at Alsos House. In Delphi – Penny Kolom-votsos, Sotiris and Apostolos – this couldn’t have been done without you; Chris and Kathy in Pelion, Chrisoula in Galaxidi. Efharisto Anna Tyler, Angela Tinson, Korina Miller and fellow scribes. Finally, to ‘SB’ (aka Kian) for his driving skills, intellect and humour, and bringing out my inner Greco- and omega-philes.
Alexis Averbuck
Honour to Alexandra Stamopoulou for always-inspiring tips and overall inspiration. Marina Flenga is, yet again, a fairy godmother, con-necting me to islanders everywhere. Marilee Anargyrou Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (Kerkyra), Olga Karayiannis and Eleni Masselou (Andros), Elina Dallas, Dimitris Foussekis and Maria Liarikos (Tinos), Michail Karampatsos and Michalis Pateras (Syros), Christiana Sofi-anopoulou and Dimitris Liaroutsos (Serifos), Vula Bolou and Sotiris Iliadis (Sifnos), Manita
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Behind the Scenes
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Scocimara-Ponghis (Kefallonia), and Petros Haritatos and Mike Tsanas (Spetses) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Ilias Nikolaidis and Elina Lychoudi were the King and Queen of Nightlife. Marga-rita, Kostas and Zisis, and Anthy and Costas made it home.
Michael Stamatios Clark
Ευχαριστω, thank you, to those who helped make the road a welcoming destination – in particular, Heather Parsons, George and Mahi (Skopelos); Gisela (Skiathos), Chrysanthi Zygogianni, Niko Sekkes (Skyros); Kostas and Bessie (Alonnisos) and Kyrillos on Evia; the Fouskas family, Vasillis and Demetra, Kostas and Nana Vatsis (Ikaria). Special thanks to fellow authors Kate and Chris, and to Korina Miller for coordinating grace. And to my family – Janet, Melina and Alexander – Greek kisses on both cheeks for all.Chris Deliso
Many Greek friends provided invaluable advice – many of whom share popular Greek names. Special credit goes to Lefteris 1 and 2, Georgios 1, 2 and 3, Maria 1 and 2, Anna and Panos, Periklis, Christina, Fotis, Miltos, Dan-iel, and the bar DJs who tolerated my Sonic Youth requests. I also must thank my fellow Lonely Planet scribes, especially coordinating author Korina Miller, commissioning editor Anna Tyler, managing editor Angela Tinson and everyone on the map-making, produc-tion and tech-support teams for their good cheer.
Victoria Kyriakopoulos
Thanks to the great Greek author team for sharing their food views and experiences, and to the Lonely Planet editors for another opportunity to write about Greek food and culture. Thanks to my ever-supportive husband Chris, and my Greek family and
friends and the special and generous people who have made travelling in Greece such a joy. Kali antamosi – next time my son Kostas will get his first taste of the Greece I love.
Andrea Schulte-Peevers
Fond thanks to all the wonderful friends and strangers who’ve provided valuable local insights about Crete before and during my research ramblings around the island. These include (in no particular order): Miriam Bers, Utha Herzbruch-Ruess, Yiannis Zervakis, the Papadospiridaki family, Stravroula (Kis-samos), Lynn (Elounda), Madalina (Elounda) and Vaggelis Alegakis.
Richard Waters
My special thanks to everyone who made my trip more colourful with their filoxenia and generosity. In no particular order, Efi and Spyros, Marianna Angelou, Mikalis Melenos, Antonios, George, Rena Kioulafi, the Greek Tourist Board in London, Lily Alicabiotis, Ioannis at Kilindra, Enetikon Travel, Alexis at Afendoulis, Fokas, Ilidi Rock. My thanks, too, to the mapping and editorial team, and commissioning editors Katie O’Connell and Anna Tyler.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.Illustrations pp72–3, pp426–7 by Javier Martinez Zarracina. Illustration pp194–5 by Michael Weldon.
Cover photograph: Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou, Meteora; Michele Falzone/Getty Images.
THIS BOOK
This guidebook was com-missioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:Commissioning Editors Katie O’Connell, Anna Tyler Coordinating Editors Kate Mathews, Branislava Vladisavljevic
Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia
Managing Editors Bruce Evans, Angela Tinson Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Penny Cordner, Laura Gibb, Carly Hall, Kellie Lang-don, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Erin Richards, Sam Trafford
Assisting Cartographers Jeff Cameron, Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett, Rachel Imeson, Jackson James
Assisting Layout Designers Clara Monitto, Carlos Solarte
Cover Research Naomi Parker
Internal Image Research Rebecca Skinner
Thanks to Anita Banh, Barbara Di Castro, Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Wayne Mur-phy, Catherine Naghten, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Gina Tsarouhas, Gerard Walker
