Sofia In Your Pocket

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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

April-June 2009

SOFIA

July- September 2009

Enjoy your

COMPLIMENTARY

COPY

of Sofia

In Your Pocket

No 15

www.inyourpocket.com

Bulgarian Beers

Cheers!

Medical

T

ourism

in Bulgaria

White Smile, Dirt Cheap

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Sofia

Sofia IIn n YYoouur r PPoocckkeett ssooffiiaa..iinnyyoouurrppoocckkeett..ccoomm

3

3 &

&

Arriving in Sofia

77 Touching down Touching down

The Basics

88

Essential reading for those not sure where Essential reading for those not sure where they are

they are

History

1212

How the past has shaped the present How the past has shaped the present Introducing

Introducing Sofia Sofia 1313 Mayor of Sofia

Mayor of Sofia

Keeping in touch

1414 Let your Mum know how you are

Let your Mum know how you are

Culture & Events

1616 Rila Monastery

Rila Monastery Hot Djs on the beach” Hot Djs on the beach”

Bansko International Jazz Festival Bansko International Jazz Festival Bansko during summer? Bansko during summer?

Where to stay

2424

Dining & Nightlife Dining & Nightlife

Dining & Nightlife

Restaurants

Restaurants 3232

Where to wine and dine Where to wine and dine

Cafés 41

Feed the addiction Feed the addiction

Nightlife 42

Enough to keep any pub crawlers on their hands Enough to keep any pub crawlers on their hands and knees and knees

What to see

4949

Puzzle

5757

Golf

5858

Golfing in Bulgaria, Golf Jokes Golfing in Bulgaria, Golf Jokes

Getting around

6060 Making sense of transport

Making sense of transport

Maps & Index

Street

Street index index 7474

Index 75

City

City map map 7676

Public

Public transportranspor t t map map 7878 Bulgaria

Bulgaria map map 7979

Whether you came here Whether you came here on a business trip or as on a business trip or as tourist, welcome to our tourist, welcome to our city. Sofia has a lot to offer city. Sofia has a lot to offer for everybody. I would for everybody. I would rec-ommend you to read ommend you to read care- fully through this fresh copy fully through this fresh copy of In Your Pocket where you of In Your Pocket where you have a nearly complete have a nearly complete overview of places overview of places to stay,to stay, places to eat and where to places to eat and where to spend your free moments. spend your free moments. For every budget Sofia has For every budget Sofia has an appropriate answer.

an appropriate answer.

Sofia during the summer months usually can be Sofia during the summer months usually can be quite hot. Together with the rise in temperature quite hot. Together with the rise in temperature also the southern temper goes up. So

also the southern temper goes up. So here a wordhere a word of caution while you tramp our streets, look twice of caution while you tramp our streets, look twice before you cross!

before you cross!

Sofia is rich in opportunities for themed cultural Sofia is rich in opportunities for themed cultural itineraries relation to landscape and garden art. There itineraries relation to landscape and garden art. There are 38 monuments of the „green wealth” – one of the are 38 monuments of the „green wealth” – one of the most significant ones is

most significant ones is the Borisova Gradina (Boris’the Borisova Gradina (Boris’ garden) which is a cultural monument of national garden) which is a cultural monument of national significance and dates 120 years back. Parks in Sofia significance and dates 120 years back. Parks in Sofia are not only refreshing source of welcome shade, but are not only refreshing source of welcome shade, but often also a rich source of culture and

often also a rich source of culture and chance to get chance to get in touch with the local population.

in touch with the local population. If you need of further

If you need of further assistance I would kindly inviteassistance I would kindly invite you to visit the National Tourist Information Centre. you to visit the National Tourist Information Centre. (p.6 ) The helpful stuff

(p.6 ) The helpful stuff there distributes free advertis-there distributes free advertis-ing materials and maps about

ing materials and maps about Bulgaria as a tourist Bulgaria as a tourist destination gives ansers to all sorts of queries. destination gives ansers to all sorts of queries.

I wish you a wonderful time in

I wish you a wonderful time in our gorgeous capitalour gorgeous capital city, city, Anelia Krushkova Anelia Krushkova Chairperson Chairperson

Bulgarian State Agency for Tourism Bulgarian State Agency for Tourism

4

4 Foreword

Foreword

arriving in soFia

5

Summer is upon us despite the resistance from the clouds Summer is upon us despite the resistance from the clouds and the mood of the city is one of relaxation & parties. and the mood of the city is one of relaxation & parties. As the temperature begins to soar, the layers of clothing As the temperature begins to soar, the layers of clothing diminish and the desire to work seems to fall with every diminish and the desire to work seems to fall with every degree that thermometer rises. The streets fill with degree that thermometer rises. The streets fill with pe-ople in the warm evenings and tables and chairs dot the ople in the warm evenings and tables and chairs dot the pavement outside every bar, restaurant and café. The pavement outside every bar, restaurant and café. The parks are swarming with people during the evenings & parks are swarming with people during the evenings & weekends, making the most of the warmth and long hours weekends, making the most of the warmth and long hours of daylight; you will see people drinking, mingling and even of daylight; you will see people drinking, mingling and even the occasional fire dancer. The city is at its most the occasional fire dancer. The city is at its most attracti-ve with all of the trees in full bloom and the atmosphere ve with all of the trees in full bloom and the atmosphere during this time of year makes the city at its most vibrant. during this time of year makes the city at its most vibrant. The current financial situation is of course having its impact The current financial situation is of course having its impact on Sofia as much as anywhere else, but the Bulgarians on Sofia as much as anywhere else, but the Bulgarians are certainly hardened to difficult economic times and are certainly hardened to difficult economic times and compared to the dark days of the mid to late 90’s, this compared to the dark days of the mid to late 90’s, this is a drop in the ocean. As a result people are still eating is a drop in the ocean. As a result people are still eating out, partying and living the summer life; namely, it’s out, partying and living the summer life; namely, it’s busi-ness as usual. Even the elections seemed to be a quiet ness as usual. Even the elections seemed to be a quiet distraction to the more important task of catching up with distraction to the more important task of catching up with friends at a trendy café in the centre or nice bar in the park. friends at a trendy café in the centre or nice bar in the park. To help also hotels, restaurants and other business more To help also hotels, restaurants and other business more pro-actively, we gave these the possibility for their possible pro-actively, we gave these the possibility for their possible promotions, to be freely included within the text of their promotions, to be freely included within the text of their independently written review by us from In Your Pocket. independently written review by us from In Your Pocket. We recommend you to keep your ‘Sofia In Your Pocket’ just We recommend you to keep your ‘Sofia In Your Pocket’ just where it belongs – in your pocket, so you can also benefit where it belongs – in your pocket, so you can also benefit from these promotions. We from In Your Pocket Bulgaria from these promotions. We from In Your Pocket Bulgaria

disclaim however to be responsible for any of the disclaim however to be responsible for any of the offers madeoffers made in this Pocket, or any other previous or future edition. in this Pocket, or any other previous or future edition. In this edition you will find useful in

In this edition you will find useful in formation to help you withformation to help you with suggestions on where to shake your boots, fill your stomach suggestions on where to shake your boots, fill your stomach or catch up on your beauty sleep.

or catch up on your beauty sleep.

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Copyright notice

Text and photos copyright Discover Bulgaria Text and photos copyright Discover Bulgaria Ltd. – Bulgaria In Y

Ltd. – Bulgaria In Your Pocket 2009. our Pocket 2009. MapsMaps copyright cartographer. All rights copyright cartographer. All rights reser-ved. No part of this publication may be ved. No part of this publication may be re-produced in any form, except brief extracts produced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and permission from the publisher and copy-right owner. The brand name In right owner. The brand name In YouYour Pock-r Pock-et is used

et is used under license from UAB In Your under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76.

(+370-5) 212 29 76.

Editor’s note

The editorial content of In Your Pocket The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

changes and errors.

Sofia In

Sofia In Your PocketYour Pocket Mladost 4, bl. 473, vh. 2-3, Mladost 4, bl. 473, vh. 2-3, parter

parter

(opposite the Business Park) (opposite the Business Park) 1715 Sofia, Bulgaria 1715 Sofia, Bulgaria tel.: + 359 2 881 01 02 tel.: + 359 2 881 01 02 fax: + 359 2 881 53 32 fax: + 359 2 881 53 32 [email protected] [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1312-742X ISSN 1312-742X © Discover Bulgaria Ltd. © Discover Bulgaria Ltd.

Printed by Delta High Print EAD Printed by Delta High Print EAD Published 4 times per year Published 4 times per year 15 000 copies 15 000 copies

Cover story

Church of the Holy Seven (Tsarkva Sveti Church of the Holy Seven (Tsarkva Sveti Sedmochislenitsi). It is one of Sofia’s Sedmochislenitsi). It is one of Sofia’s fin-est neo-Byzantine churches. Read more est neo-Byzantine churches. Read more on p.53

on p.53

Editorial

Editor-in-chief

Editor-in-chief Steven MacAulay Steven MacAulay Research

Research Thomas Brailsford, RumianaThomas Brailsford, Rumiana Benova, Maya Kozareva

Benova, Maya Kozareva Layout & Design

Layout & Design Margarit AntonovMargarit Antonov Photos

Photos Veronica de Boer Veronica de Boer Cover

Cover Veronica de Boer Veronica de Boer

Sales & Circulation

Publisher

Publisher Discover Bulgaria Ltd.Discover Bulgaria Ltd. General Manager

General Manager Veronica de Boer Veronica de Boer Marketing Manager and PR

Marketing Manager and PR Petya RachevaPetya Racheva Sales & Circulation

Sales & Circulation To contact our salesTo contact our sales team send an email to team send an email to [email protected], or call our office and ask for the bulgaria.com, or call our office and ask for the sales department.

sales department.

Available from Airports – Burgas, Varna Available from Airports – Burgas, Varna and Sofia, airline companies, rent-a-cars, and Sofia, airline companies, rent-a-cars, hotels, bars, restaurants, business centres, hotels, bars, restaurants, business centres, shopping malls, foreign embassies and shopping malls, foreign embassies and international forums. To order your copy international forums. To order your copy online visit www.inyourpocket.com online visit www.inyourpocket.com

pick up tram No 1

pick up tram No 1 or 7 outside the train station (see or 7 outside the train station (see above).above). There is a taxi booking office just beside the main exit. There is a taxi booking office just beside the main exit. Some international buses arrive at the

Some international buses arrive at the Trafik-MarketTrafik-Market termi- termi-nal mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this nal mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices

and café kiosks, you’ll have to walk to the main stations on and café kiosks, you’ll have to walk to the main stations on either side to find any facilities.

either side to find any facilities.

By car

Regardless of your point of entry, you deserve plaudi Regardless of your point of entry, you deserve plaudi ts for ts for being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your speed to avoid the many police chec

speed to avoid the many police chec ks on incoming roads.ks on incoming roads. Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and get patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam, get patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam, which are unfortunately becoming more and m

which are unfortunately becoming more and m ore frequent,ore frequent, especially during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find especially during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find in the city, and you should be aware that the blue zones in the city, and you should be aware that the blue zones cost 1Lv per hour. Failure to pay can lead to clampi cost 1Lv per hour. Failure to pay can lead to clampi ng andng and your car being towed away after 2 hours. Parking your car being towed away after 2 hours. Parking vouch-ers are sold on the spot by parking attendants or you can ers are sold on the spot by parking attendants or you can just send SMS to 1302 with your registration number ( just send SMS to 1302 with your registration number ( for for

Bulgarian and transit license plate numbers), and you will Bulgarian and transit license plate numbers), and you will be notified when the time is up, giving you the chance to be notified when the time is up, giving you the chance to pay for the next hour.

pay for the next hour. Relax. There seem to be more signs, writ

Relax. There seem to be more signs, writ ten in theten in the English language on major roads, and there are more and English language on major roads, and there are more and more Bulgarians, who feel confid

more Bulgarians, who feel confid ent to speak “English”.ent to speak “English”. After all, they have been watching American subbed After all, they have been watching American subbed movies for years, and even some gas-pumping people movies for years, and even some gas-pumping people have university degrees. The more you get stuck in traffic have university degrees. The more you get stuck in traffic jams and the harder it i

jams and the harder it i s to park, then you must be in thes to park, then you must be in the city centre.

city centre.

By plane

Sofia International Airport

Sofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia), 10km east (Letishte Sofia), 10km east of the city centre, is di

of the city centre, is di vided into two terminals - the aging vided into two terminals - the aging Terminal 1 and the modern Terminal 2, opened in 2006. Terminal 1 and the modern Terminal 2, opened in 2006. The arrivals halls at both terminals boast cafés, car-hire The arrivals halls at both terminals boast cafés, car-hire and taxi counters, information desk, ATMs and exchange and taxi counters, information desk, ATMs and exchange bureaux (although beware that rates here are not bureaux (although beware that rates here are not particu-larly generous, so it’s best to only

larly generous, so it’s best to only change enough cash for change enough cash for immediate survival).

immediate survival).

Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts, thronging the Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts, thronging the arriv-als halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow als halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow taxis parked outside (OK Sup

taxis parked outside (OK Sup ertrans and Taxi S Express),ertrans and Taxi S Express), or visit their counters. The fare into town shouldn’t cost or visit their counters. The fare into town shouldn’t cost

more than 16Lv ( more than 16Lv ( €€8).8).

Alternatively, you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal Alternatively, you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal 1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5) 1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5) on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets cost 1Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or from the cost 1Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or from the driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bul driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bul ky ky piece of luggage; otherwise, you run the risk of being fined piece of luggage; otherwise, you run the risk of being fined by ticket inspectors.

by ticket inspectors.

By train

Sofia’s

Sofia’s Central StationCentral Station (Tsentralna gara), open 05:00(Tsentralna gara), open 05:00 - 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute - 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute walk north of the city centre. Facilities include le walk north of the city centre. Facilities include le ft-luggage,ft-luggage, money exchange kiosks,

money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets.ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets. Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage lockers in the basement (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage lockers in the basement (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item).

hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item).

Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1 Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1 or 7 (buy ticket from k

or 7 (buy ticket from k iosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) fromiosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) from opposite the station forecourt - head for the sub opposite the station forecourt - head for the sub terraneanterranean underpass to find the platform. Either of these will take underpass to find the platform. Either of these will take you to pl. Sveta Nedelya, well placed for central Sofia’s you to pl. Sveta Nedelya, well placed for central Sofia’s amenities - get off

amenities - get off when you see the Sheraton Hotel loom-when you see the Sheraton Hotel loom-ing up on your left.

ing up on your left.

The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are an unpre-an unpre-dictable bunch; check that their meters are switched on dictable bunch; check that their meters are switched on or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200 or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200 metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi firms are more reputable.

firms are more reputable.

By bus

Most international and domestic buses arrive at the Most international and domestic buses arrive at the spanking new

spanking new Central Bus StationCentral Bus Station (Tsentralna Avtogara),(Tsentralna Avtogara), 200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to 200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to other points of arrival the bus station is comfortingly other points of arrival the bus station is comfortingly civilized, with clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafés, a civilized, with clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafés, a pharmacy, and an ATM. There is a 24-hour left-luggage pharmacy, and an ATM. There is a 24-hour left-luggage office (2-3Lv depending on size of bag) in the main ticket office (2-3Lv depending on size of bag) in the main ticket hall.

hall.

To get into the centre of town from here, stroll either south To get into the centre of town from here, stroll either south down bul. Maria Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to down bul. Maria Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to

Street

Street Улица (ул.)Улица (ул.) Ulitsa (ul.)Ulitsa (ul.) Square

Square Площад (пл.)Площад (пл.) Ploshtad (pl.)Ploshtad (pl.) Boulevard

Boulevard Булевард (бул.)Булевард (бул.) Boulevard (bul.)Boulevard (bul.) Highway

Highway МагистралаМагистрала MagistralaMagistrala Bridge

Bridge МостМост Most Most

Street smarts

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Sofia IIn n YYoouur r PPoocckkeett ssooffiiaa..iinnyyoouurrppoocckkeett..ccoomm

4

4 Foreword

Foreword

July - September July - September 20092009 sofia.inyourpocket.com sofia.inyourpocket.com

5

5 arriving in soFia