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D E C A N T E R • A p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 9 5

PANEL TASTING

Barolo 2010

Piedmont’s star red is on a roll, and its success has been boosted by a string of stellar

vintages – including 2010. Ian D’Agata is confident wine lovers will find plenty to enjoy

Barolo has never been better, and a seemingly endless

run of successful vintages should help it conquer new markets and generations of wine lovers.

aside from the rain-plagued 2002 and incredibly hot 2003 vintage, there have been nothing but above-average, classic or outstanding years since 1999, and 2010 looks to be one of the best of recent times. The year began with a snowy winter that guaranteed lots of water reserves – a good thing given the high average temperatures of april and May, and especially of the last part of august and september. This led to very ripe, sugar-rich grapes, and most 2010 Barolos are not shy about their high octane levels. If the high temperatures caused Barolo’s magical floral perfume to get lost in some 2010s, the wines do present a creamy charm and a ripe, fruity personality that makes them easier to approach when young. It also means that the wines will probably evolve slightly faster than some other vintages, like 2001 or 2006.

Comparisons with Burgundy

When well made, Barolo is one of the world’s truly great wines, characterised by a perfume of roses, violets, sweet spices, minerals and sour red cherry, and an uncommon blend of powerful tannins yet delicate flavours similar to the aromas. Barolo is also one of the world’s most ageworthy wines (a well kept 1947 or 1961 Barolo is unforgettable), so it’s easy to understand why many wine lovers and collectors hold it in such high esteem.

another plus is that Barolo, much like red Burgundy (to which it is often compared) is very site-specific, with evident differences between the communes. Generally speaking, wines from la Morra and Barolo, with their magnesium- and manganese-rich soils, develop faster and are drinkable at five to eight years from the vintage (though wines from great vintages will easily keep 40 years or more). Those from Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’alba and serralunga d’alba are slower to develop, given their harder soils, and are best opened eight to 15 years from the vintage; clearly, they can live even longer when cellared well. other less well known communes that are producing wonderful wines are novello (similar to those from serralunga and Monforte) and verduno, where wines from the extremely high quality Monvigliero cru are starting to turn heads.

Just like with Burgundy, it pays to know the names of the most dependable producers. Though the astringently hard, brutally tannic wines devoid of fruit and flesh are mainly a thing of the past, some poor Barolos are still being made. such Barolos are most often light-bodied, quickly maturing wines with little depth or concentration of perfume and fruit. That said, those who still think that Barolos are tough and unenjoyable simply don’t know enough about the wine or the producers. one last word: as Barolo is 100% nebbiolo, it will never be pitch black in colour; it is light to medium-dark garnet. never make the mistake of thinking that the deep, inky wines are the best. Wine lovers can turn confidently to the 2010 Barolos, just as they could to the lovely 2009 and classic 2008s before them. There are many great bottles to choose from.

Ian D’Agata is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy

Total hectares 1,800 hectares Annual production 12,000,000 bottles Production area 11 communes in the DoCG; 85% of wine coming from Barolo, la Morra, Castiglione Falletto, serralunga d’alba and Monforte d’alba. other communes are:

Cherasco, Diano d’alba, Grinzane Cavour, novello, roddi and verduno.

Production guidelines 100% nebbiolo. Must be aged at least two years in oak and at least one year in bottle before release. riservas are aged five years, with at least three in oak.

Barolo: know your vintages

2011

hit by rains; naturally reduced yields due to flowering difficulties.

2010

Potentially outstanding, but not all wines are as great as they should be.

2009

Pleasant, soft wines of early appeal.

2008

Classic wines that will age well; less fleshy and showy than 2009 or 2010

2007

Warm vintage of softer wines; some overripe.

2006

high acid, tannic wines. Most will only start to be ready from 2020.

2005

Underrated; the best wines are remarkably fresh and perfumed.

2004

overrated. some are too ripe and evolving too quickly.

2003

Dry, hot year; wines high in alcohol and super-ripe.

2002

rain-plagued vintage; lighter bodied wines, but some positives.

2001

The best Barolo vintage since 1989: balance, charm, perfume and power.

2000

Charming, creamy wines but not at the level of 2001, ’06, ’08 or ’10.

Novello Monforte d’Alba Grinzane Cavour Limit of Barolo wine region Limit of Barolo wine region kilometres 0 1 2

P I E D M O N T

La Morra Castiglione Falletto Serralunga d’Alba

B A R O L O

Barolo Ligurian Sea P I E D M O N T River Po River Tanaro A21 Turin Genoa Asti Alba A B C D E

Piedmont wine regions

A. B. C. D. E. Monferrato Asti Roero Barbaresco Brachetto d’Acqui Vineyards A26 BAROLO Ligurian Sea Tyrrhenian Sea PIEDMONT Rome I TA L Y Sardinia Corsica Barolo wine regions La Morra Monforte d’Alba Serralunga d’Alba Barolo Novello Castiglione Falletto Verduno Grinzane Cavour Roddi Diano d’Alba Cherasco 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

N

2 3 4 5 6 8 9 7 10 11 1 Verduno

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PANEL TASTING

D E C A N T E R • A p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 9 7

Barolo 2010

The results

Wine critics have heaped praise on the 2010 Barolos – so would they live up to their reputation here? The

answer: a qualified yes, with high scores awarded. amy Wislocki reports on the post-tasting discussion

The tasters’ verdicts

2010 Is Clearly an extremely good vintage. Is it the best vintage of the century so far? Ian D’agata would say not, though concedes that his is generally a minority view. ‘2010 is undoubtedly a very good year. But it has been touted as a possible vintage of the century and in that context, for me, it fails. Granted, there are some spectacular wines, but there are also a bunch of wines that disappointed with syrupy, super-ripe aromas and flavours, and little of the floral, red rose characteristics that you look for in Barolo.’

D’agata went on to criticise the high alcohol level of many wines – ‘we tasted 134, and only four of them were 13.5% or less’ – and the astringent tannins of others. ‘The tannins may be more prominent at the moment because the fruit is muted, but some of the tannins are distinctly green,’ he observed.

‘The vintage has enjoyed the same level of hype as 2000 and 2004,’ continued D’agata, ‘and while both of those were also very good – even excellent – neither is a vintage of the century. I’d choose 2001 or 2006 over any of them. 2008 is also a classic vintage, with some great wines, but has gone under the radar for some reason.’

Michael Garner was more positive about 2010. ‘These are tremendous wines, with an amazing freshness and a fine

The scores

134 wines tasted

3

Outstanding

71

Highly recommended

53

Recommended

6

Fair

0

Poor

1

Faulty

acid balance. I think the vintage just about deserves the praise that has been heaped on it. Perhaps they’re showing slightly less well than the 2009s were at this stage last year, but I think the 2010s have longer legs and will continue to develop for far longer. I’m a big fan of the vintage.’

Garner also praised the evolution of the region in general. ‘Barolo production has doubled over the past 25 years, and that would usually come at the expense of quality. But, on the contrary, today’s tasting has shown that quality is better than ever, and that’s particularly noticeable at the lower levels.’

It was the typicity of the wines that won emily o’hare over. ‘you could understand the nebbiolo grape

immediately when you tasted these 2010s,’ she said. ‘They showed an attractive classicism, despite the high alcohol, and there was a clarity to the wines – nothing opaque in the glass, which was a relief.’

‘Quality in the region is better

than ever before, particularly at

the lower levels’

Michael Garner

Michael Garner

Garner has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 25 of them. He is the co-author of Barolo: Tar and roses, writes and judges frequently for Decanter and has taught for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust.

Garner’s verdict

‘Time alone will tell just how good the 2010 vintage is. Whether it will turn out to be the vintage of the century so far is already open to debate: after the recent release of the excellent 2011s, there will still be another eight vintages to consider (some of which, 2013 for example, already promise great things.)

‘There is no doubt, however, that 2010 can be rated as very good to excellent. on the whole the wines show excellent freshness with very good levels of acidity, firm but ripe tannins and quite high alcohol levels. at the moment they have entered a slightly dumb phase and are less forthcoming in terms of aroma than they were last autumn. But I am convinced that they will come round fairly quickly and show the full breadth and depth of aroma that earlier tastings promised.

‘Despite this being a difficult phase for the wines, 96% of them came in at recommended and above and will provide excellent medium- to long-term drinking. Were I to be really picky, I might raise a slight doubt about their intensity of fruit and therefore their ultimate long-term future, but we’re splitting hairs here: 2010 is a lovely vintage which is well worth investing in.’

Ian D’Agata

D’Agata is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy and was named Italy’s best wine journalist 2012 by the Comitato Grandi Crus d’Italia. He is an award-winning author of The ecco Guide to the Best Wines of Italy and The native Wine Grapes of Italy. He also writes on Italian wines among others, for stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar. In addition to his writing, D’Agata is the scientific advisor to Vinitaly International, the director of the Vinitaly Academy, and lectures on Italian food and wine cultural history for New York University’s Food Sciences Master’s programme. D’Agata’s verdict

‘serralunga stole the show since the wines had better acidity and more precise flavours, thanks to generally cooler sites and limestone in the soils. Castiglione Falletto also confirmed its role as the commue that provides the most balanced of all Barolos (there was a noteworthy high overall standard and a level consistency in the wines we tasted). Many wines from la Morra, Barolo, Monforte and other communes were overripe and high in alcohol.

‘With just four wines at 13.5% alcohol or less, it is clear to see that 2010 is a hot vintage with all that entails. Many have touted it as exceptional and, while good, I think this vintage will fall into a category that includes 1997 and 2004: highly touted at the outset but then critically re-evaluated over the following years. very good years all, but vintages of the century? hardly.

‘If Decanter readers want a truly great bottle of Barolo, perfumed and precise, from a recent vintage, go for 2001, 2006 and even 2008 which are all beautifully classic.’

Emily O’Hare

O’Hare left her role as head sommelier/ wine buyer at London’s River Café to take part in the 2014 harvest at estates in Tuscany, Campania and Piedmont. She is co-founder of the London Wine Sessions festivals, as well as a wine judge, educator and freelancer writer. She lives in Florence where she is studying to become an Italian Ambassador of Wine at the Vinitaly International Academy. O’Hare’s verdict

‘If ever there was a vintage to draw in new fans to nebbiolo (or tempt lovers of Pinot noir away), then 2010 is the year: these Barolos are transparent and bright in colour, with complex aromas that are floral, exuberantly fruity and exotically spicy, with base notes of fresh meat. But it is the nature and quality of the tannins that really mark this vintage out. The tannins are expectedly high, but do not dominate the impression of the wine – instead they are supple and supporting and, in many cases, unexpectedly soft.

‘having worked in restaurants, I know that customers have an impression of Barolo as this rather intimidating, full-bodied, full-on, powerful red that is best drunk at least 10 years after bottling. But with the 2010s such impressions can be challenged – the wines really can be enjoyed now (our drinking windows indicate when they will be at their best).They smell and taste thrillingly pure and, although full flavoured, they are medium bodied, with satisfying (not scary!) tannins. 2010 is a Barolo vintage to woo with!’

The tasters all agreed that the wines were going through a ‘difficult’ or ‘dumb’ phase, described poetically by o’hare as a ‘wave of quietness’. so when will they be at their best?

o’hare found a refreshing readiness to drink in general. ‘yes, I might enjoy them more in three to five years’ time, and some will go 10 years or more, but there’s a jubilance and joyousness to them in youth that would make them great to drink now, especially with food.’

‘What impresses me about nebbiolo is its high level of drinkability over a sustained period,’ said Garner. I think 2010 will hit a peak of drinkability in around 2020, and from then onwards we will be looking at some very special wines. They have the right level of tannins and acidity, matched on the whole by body and substance.’ D’agata agreed, suggesting that some wines might even be ready to drink in 2018. ‘I’d drink most before 2030, except for the best, which could go to 2045.’

In terms of communes, both serralunga and Castiglione Falletto earned praise. ‘We tend to forget about the latter, but it is consistently high scoring,’ said Garner. ‘It’s a great introduction to Barolo too, as it’s geographically in the centre of the region and boasts aspects of the other communes.’ serralunga is on the rise, and has the bonus of being the only commune with a lot of limestone in the soil,’ added D’agata. Both are worth special attention in 2010.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2010 Barolos. Only one wine per producer was permitted.

Brezza, Sarmassa, Barolo

Decanter

average score: 18.5/20pts (95/100pts)

Individual judges’ scores: Ian D’Agata 18.5 Michael Garner 18.5 Emily O’Hare 18.5

£36.67-£43.26

Fine & Rare, Millésima, The Winemakers Club

a bastion of traditionally made wines, Barolo lovers know that there are fewer surer bets than the wines of enzo Brezza. Besides outstanding Freisa, Dolcetto and Barbera wines, his different, site-specific Barolos are standard-bearers for nebbiolo and the DoCG. This sarmassa is the biggest and fleshiest, given the cru’s warmer microclimate and higher clay content – in better vintages a Bricco sarmassa bottling is also made from the best situated vines – neatly distinguishing it from Brezza’s Cannubi Barolo (sleeker due to a higher sand content in the soil) and the Castellero Barolo which falls stylistically between.

Ian D’Agata Bright penetrating aromas of red cherry and bergamot. Mounting tannins will require patience before broaching, but this is a promising, well-balanced wine.

Michael Garner Broad, fresh, ripe and rosy. sweet berry fruit with rose and mint perfumes. Fresh, ripe and round with mouthwatering acidity. very good structure with firm but ripe tannins. Perfumed, floral finish.

Emily O’Hare Beautiful, expressive and fine tannins, aromatics and flavours. Medium-bodied, high-arching palate. excellent!

Drink 2018-2030 Alcohol 14.5%

Cascina Adelaide, Fossati, La Morra

18.5 (95)

IDA 18.5 MG 18.75 EOH 18.5

£39-£47

Aged in Oak, Alliance Wines, Swig, Vin Cognito

Cascina adelaide may not be the sexiest or most talked-about name in Barolo, but insiders know that the estate makes solid Barolos offering great value. The estate has been around since 1817, but the turning point came in 1999 when current owner annibale Drocco took over; winemaker sergio Molino helps fashion a bevy of site-specific wines in a traditional style (macerations routinely last 300 hours or more; ageing is a minimum of two years in large oak barrels). Fossati is a high-quality vineyard located next to Brunate and Cerequio (generally considered two of the six best vineyards of the DoCG), and in typical la Morra fashion offers explosive perfume and ripeness of red cherry fruit flavours.

IDA Beautifully pure and precise aromas and flavours of red cherry, rose and sweet spices with a lacy minerality on the long finish. This screams la Morra, which isn’t always the case in 2010 with wines from this commune. MG youthful, full, woody and spicy aromas over intense black fruit. Fragrant dark cherry and liquorice flavours with lovely balance. excellent length and very pretty aromas to finish.

EOH More fragrant than most. a lot of ripeness and sweetness but delicate flavours of peach and summer fruits. Feels typical of la Morra.

Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14.5%

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Barolo 2010

Outstanding (continued)

18.5–20pts (95–100pts)

Highly Recommended

17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Highly Recommended (continued)

17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Rocca Giovanni, Ravera di

Monforte, Monforte d’Alba

18.25 (94) IDA 18.25 MG 18.25 EOH 18.5

n/a UK

www.roccagiovanni.it

Pronounced cherry blossom and red apple nose with hints of coffee and vanilla. Graceful delivery of pure red fruit, plum liqueur, aromatic herbs and citrus zest. an easy-drinking wine with very good balance. Drink 2018-2032 Alc 14%

Palladino, Parafada, Serralunga

d’Alba

17.75 (92) IDA 17.75 MG 18.25 EOH 17.25

£45

The Winery

Pure, balanced aromas and flavours of red cherry, red berries, a floral lift, milk chocolate and sweet spices. surprisingly smooth and utterly irresistible with an anise perfume to finish. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14.5%

Livia Fontana, Villero, Castiglione

Falletto

17.75 (92) IDA 17.25 MG 18.5 EOH 17.25

n/a UK

www.liviafontana.it

ripe and fragrant with floral-toned, spicy bramble fruit aromas. Clean and vibrant with notes of quinine, red cherry and underbrush. noble tannins with an impressive structure; sumptuous. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14%

Francesco Rinaldi e Figli, Cannubi,

Barolo

18.25 (94) IDA 18.25 MG 18.5 EOH 18.25

£50-£52.95

Astrum, Handford

Fresh and ripe with full black fruit aromas and emerging notes of nutmeg and black pepper. Pungent floral lift and bright red cherry and raspberry jam flavours linger nicely on the polished finish. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14%

Monti, Monforte d’Alba

17.75 (92) IDA 18 MG 18 EOH 17.5

£50

Direct Wines

ripe, full and forward aromas of chocolate and aniseed tinged with blackberry. Well made – the quality of fruit and winemaking shows. Finishes smooth and long with a mouthwatering quality. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14.5%

La Spinetta, Vigneto Garretti,

Monforte d’Alba

17.75 (92) IDA 18 MG 18 EOH 17.5

£45

(2008)Butler’s Wine Cellar, Ministry of Drinks

nectarine and peach fruit with sweet spices and strawberry hints on the complex nose. ripe and full with pretty blue and black fruit flavours and rose petals. spicy-toned finish with good firm tannins. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14.5%

Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino,

Cascina Dardi, Bussia, Monforte

d’Alba

18 (93) IDA 18.25 MG 18.5 EOH 17

n/a UK

www.vino-fantino.com

Tea leaves and tobacco with pristine red cherry fruit, rose petal and a touch of mint. Broad, ripe and savoury palate with fine, densely textured fruit flavours and very good balance and length. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14%

Parusso, Bussia, Monforte d’Alba

17.75 (92) IDA 17.5 MG 18.25 EOH 17.5

n/a UK

www.parusso.com

Pungently floral and exotic notes of coconut, nectarine and apricot nectar. Cool, clean, focused palate: immaculately balanced acidity and tannins, and a lovely long finish with earthy and chalky notes. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 14.5%

Brovia, Castiglione Falletto

17.75 (92) IDA 17.75 MG 18.25 EOH 17.5

£36

Raeburn

Fresh mint and parsley and bright red berry aromas. Juicy red fruit palate balanced by good acidity and firm but ripe tannins. lots of freshness and promise to develop further. Drink 2017-2040 Alc 14%

Sobrero, Ciabot Tanasio,

Castiglione Falletto

17.75 (92) IDA 18 MG 18 EOH 17.5

£30

Swig

lively, fresh aromas of caramel, mint, red cherry and underbrush. Broad ripe and juicy palate with a fine balance. vibrant and clean finish. It is almost drinkable now but will keep very well. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14%

Massolino, Parafada, Serralunga

d’Alba

18 (93) IDA 18.25 MG 18.5 EOH 17.5

£52-£74.99

Exel, Hawkshead Wines, Hedonism, Liberty Wines, SH Jones, Slurp

Brooding, very deep nose of sour red cherry and raspberry fruit complementd by aromatic herbs, sweet spices and roasted coffee. long, densely textured finish with chalky blueberry and clove notes. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 14%

San Biagio, Roggero, La Morra

17.75 (92) IDA 17.75 MG 18.25 EOH 17.5

n/a UK

www.barolosanbiagio.com

Bergamot, ink, oriental spice and sandalwood on the complex nose. lush palate with a full core of ripe, aromatic fruit. spicy and long on the strongly tannic but noble finish. needs time, but very la Morra. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5%

Cordero di Montezemolo, Bricco

Gattera, La Morra

17.75 (92) IDA 17.75 MG 17.5 EOH 18

£51.95-£59.95

Eurowines, Millésima, Simply Wines

ripe, spicy nose with notes of strawberry, melon, pomegranate and dried flowers. Full palate of well-rounded juicy fruit, judicious tannins and an impressive intensity. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14%

Boroli, Castiglione Falletto

17.5 (91) IDA 17.5 MG 17.75 EOH 17.5

n/a UK

www.boroli.com

outstanding purity of floral red cherry and raspberry aromas and flavours chiselled by an underpinning of lively acidity. elegant palate showing lots of freshness and mineral nuances, which is rare for 2010. Drink 2018 2030 Alc 13.5%

Boroli, Villero, Castiglione Falletto

17.75 (92) IDA 17 MG 18.5 EOH 17.5

n/a UK

www.boroli.com

Toasted walnuts, chestnuts and fresh thyme with cherry, citrus and peach notes. Broad and fleshy fruit flavours of good intensity and aromatic spicy notes come through strongly on the finish. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14%

Silvio Grasso, Bricco Luciani, La

Morra

17.75 (92) IDA 17.5 MG 17.5 EOH 18

£37.50

Clarion Wines

Big and full with flashes of fragrant, dark plum fruit, liquorice, spice and lilac. Palate is dominated by super-ripe elements that add opulence and tactile presence. Impressive wine in a bigger, richer style. Drink 2018-2032 Alc 14.5%

Deltetto, Bussia, Monforte d’Alba

17.75 (92) IDA 17.25 MG 18 EOH 18

Poa

Liberty Wines

Bright and fresh aromas of raspberry, cherry, mint and sage. sweet and chunky palate of ripe cassis flavours. an interesting wine to contemplate over: lots of potential energy; tightly coiled. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14%

Cascina Bongiovanni, Pernanno,

Castiglione Falletto

17.5 (91) IDA 17.5 MG 18 EOH 16.75

n/a UK

www.cascinabongiovanni.com

Bright yet austere flavours of red cherry, dark berries and spicy plum are lifted by a violet top note. Full bodied, with rich and powerful red fruit. Great balance and plenty of life ahead.

Drink 2020-2040 Alc 14.5%

Diego Conterno, Ginestra,

Monforte d’Alba

18.25 (94) IDA 18.25 MG 18.25 EOH 18

£34.50-£67

Exel Wines, Mille Gusti

Perfumed, almost romantic nose of aniseed, nutmeg, flowers and red berries. Big, ripe and densely textured palate with enticing fruit. Impressive length with a spicy liquorice finish. Drink 2016-2040 Alc 14.5%

Massolino, Margheria, Serralunga

d’Alba

17.75 (92) IDA 17.75 MG 18.25 EOH 17

£55-£74.99

Exel, Hedonism, Justerini & Brooks

Plum and anise aromas with a hint of chilli chocolate. rich, ripe and smooth, with bright acids lifting and extending the red berry and saline flavours on the long crisp finish. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14.5%

Fontanafredda, Serralunga d’Alba

17.75 (92) IDA 18 MG 17.75 EOH 17.25

£23-£32

Brinkelys, Exel, Great Western Wine, Hawkshead Wines, Loki, Wined Up Here, Wine Direct

soft, sweet, ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit perfume. Impressively full fruit flavours backed up with fresh acidity and ripe, but firm tannins. Balanced and smooth with a mineral finish. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14%

Giovanni Rosso, Cerretta, Serralunga d’Alba

18.5 (95)

IDA 18.75 MG 18.5 EOH 18.5

£28.46-£56.95

AG Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, Fine & Rare

Founded in 1890, the estate has recently become one of the brightest emerging stars in Barolo. owner Davide rosso studied winemaking in France and is taking the wines to a new level: all his wines speak clearly of serralunga, and this Ceretta is typical of his line-up, characterised by noteworthy tannins and racy acidity when young, with mesmerising floral and sour red cherry aromas and flavours. Wines from the Cerretta cru are

becoming more fashionable, as the site’s cooler microclimate yields lively wines with a bright fruit nuance that makes them very appealing. rosso’s first vintage (2011) of his Tommaso Canale cuvée from the vigna rionda cru will also be released soon. This is sparking great excitement among Barolo aficionados as the cru is considered by many to be Barolo’s greatest. IDA Beautiful aromas and flavours of rich, ripe, red cherry, flinty red berries, and fresh flowers. rich, dense and suave palate with sweet spice and marzipan accents. long, glycerol finish with a hint of pepper.

MG ripe and scented with notes of camphor, sage and cinnamon. Full body and intense flavours matched by bracing acidity and firm tannins. lots of life on the palate – this should develop well.

EOH nuanced, rich, dark aromas and flavours. very concentrated palate filled with dark chocolate notes.

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Barolo 2010

Highly Recommended (continued)

17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Paolo Conterno, Ginestra, Monforte

d’Alba

17.5 (91) IDA 17 MG 17.75 EOH 17.5

£40

Bibendum PLB, Justerini & Brooks

Broad and full with mushroom, smoke and coffee aromas and flashes of ripe blue fruits. very good classic example of Barolo from a very good vintage. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14.5%

Filippo Broccardo e Figli, Monforte

d’Alba

17.5 (91) IDA 17.75 MG 17.25 EOH 17.5

£24

Big Red Wine Co

Pristine and pretty aromas and flavours of red cherry, flint, citrus peel and white stone fruit. Fleshy palate with full savoury flavours and hints of smoke and cedar. Good balance with a harmonious finish. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14%

La Spinetta, Campè Vürsù

17.5 (91) IDA 17.75MG 18 EOH 17

£35

Fine & Rare

striking nectarine and peach aromas typical of very young Barolo from a warm year. Full and ripe palate with emerging aromas of coffee, liquorice and sweet spice. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5%

Ferdinando Principiano,

Serralunga d’Alba

17.5 (91) IDA 17.5 MG 16.75 EOH 18

£28.50-£29

Bat & Bottle, The Secret Cellar

Peach nectar, nectarine, lemon zest and red cherry – a knockout aroma! round and full palate with smoky and spicy ripe fruit flavours. elegant with good balance and length. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 13.5%

Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Cannubi,

Barolo

17.5 (91) IDA 17.5 MG 17.25 EOH 17.5

£40

Fine & Rare

ripe summer fruit pudding aromas – bright and delicious. very good balance with perky acidity and cherry flavours that last and last. a bright mineral overlay surfaces at the back. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14%

Seghesio, Ginestra, Monforte

d’Alba

17.5 (91) IDA 17.25 MG 18.75 EOH 16.5

n/a UK

www.renzoseghesio.com

Fresh and full with strong, spicy notes of nutmeg and black pepper and a hint of shoe polish. Dense texture matched by good acidity and a long, peppery finish. al the elements are there – majestic. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14%

Prunotto, Bussia, Monforte d’Alba

17.5 (91) IDA 17.25 MG 17.75 EOH 17.75

£40-£55

Exel, Luigi Delicatessen, Islington Wines, The Vineyard (Isle of Man)

Pure, fresh, long red cherry and citrus zest nuances; very feminine. Densely textured palate with emerging notes of bitter chocolate and mushroom. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 13.5%

Vietti, Rocche di Castiglione,

Castiglione Falletto

17.5 (91) IDA 17.75 MG 18.5 EOH 16.5

£140

Atlas Fine Wines, Bibendum PLB, Cru London

Broad and ripe palate with good freshness too. Big dense and juicy with suave tannins and a spicy kick on the polished finish. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14%

Rosoretto

17.5 (91) IDA 17.25 MG 17.5 EOH 17.5

n/a UK

www.rosoretto.com

Plenty of weight with layers of dried fruits, cinnamon and fresh pepper. opulent flavours of ripe red cherry and cinnamon with very good acidity and length. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14.5%

Villadoria, Serralunga d’Alba

17.5 (91) IDA 18.25 MG 18 EOH 16.5

£30

Alfie Fiandaca

Coffee and butterscotch aromas over full plum and blueberry fruit. Fresh, concentrated and complex – almost too easy to drink. serralunga tannins show their bite on the long, floral finish. Drink 2020-2038 Alc 14%

Giacomo Fenocchio, Bussia,

Monforte d’Alba

17.5 (91) IDA 16.75 MG 18.25 EOH 17.75

£30-£35.99

Armit Wines, Exel

ripe and forward with impressive aromas of liquorice, black tea, mint and ripe red fruits. richer than usual fruit presence for the commune with spicy and mineral aromas that linger on the finish. Drink 2020-2040 Alc 14%

Damilano, Cannubi, Barolo

17.5 (91) IDA 17.25 MG 18 EOH 17

£55

Mondial Wine

Brooding aromas and flavours of spicy red cherry, quinine and minerals. ripe, full and solid palate with masses of sweet, juicy fruit flavours, and strong oak tannins. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14%

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Barolo 2010

Highly Recommended (continued)

17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Cascina Ballarin, Bricco Rocca,

La Morra

17.25 (90+) IDA 17MG 18 18 EOH 17

n/a UK

www.cascinaballarin.com

Citrus fruits, toffee apple and milk chocolate complement red cherry aromas and flavours. Massive ripe fruit on the balanced, fresh and juicy palate with smoky and spicy notes to add depth. Drink 2020-2040 Alc 14.5%

Andrea Oberto, Rocche

dell’Annunziata, La Morra

17.25 (90+) IDA 17MG 17.75 EOH 17

£58.95

Lea & Sandeman

Mediterranean herbs and coffee with brooding aromas of plum and black cherry. Big palate of ripe, juicy fruit flavours with a firm underlying structure. Impressive aromas to finish. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5%

Camparo di Mauro Drocco, Boiolo,

La Morra

17.25 (90+) IDA 17MG 18 17.5 EOH 17.5

n/a UK

www.camparo.it

Deep, brooding aromas and flavours of dark cherry and coffee. Firm and full palate with rich and powerful black fruit flavours. Good length and definition. Will develop. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5%

Andrea Oberto, Brunate, La Morra

17.25 (90+) IDA 16.75MG 18 EOH 16.75

£59.95

Lea & Sandeman

hints of game, lead pencil, coffee and black pepper complement dark cherry aromas and flavours. ripe and intense with full juicy fruit flavours. excellent structure and length that will develop well. Drink 2015-2035 Alc 14.5%

Conterno Fantino, Sorì Ginestra,

Monforte d’Alba

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.25 MG 16.75 EOH 17.5

£60-£69.50

Bacco Wine, Exel, Farthinghoe Fine Wines, Great Western Wine, Hawkshead Wines, Hedonism

Pure, penetrating aromas and flavours of liquorice, dark cherry and earthy tones. It has an attractive, supple texture with sweet and sour fruit flavours. spicy notes to finish.

Drink 2019-2032 Alc 14%

GD Vajra, Bricco delle Viole

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.5 MG 17 EOH 17.25

£46-£64.99

Exel, Hawkshead Wines, Hedonism, Liberty Wines, Millésima, Planet of the Grapes

Perfumed nose of sweet spices, black cherry and blackberry syrup. raspberry, blackberry and cranberry flavours bolster a sultry, super-ripe style that is irresistible. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14.5%

Ellena Giuseppe, Ascheri,

La Morra

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.5 MG 17.75 EOH 16.75

£24.46

A&B Vintners

Broad and fleshy with ripe fruit aromas and hints of smoke and spice. vibrant on the palate with peppery red fruit, game and herbal notes with polished tannins. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14.5%

Gigi Rosso, Arione, Castiglione

Falletto

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.25MG 17.5 EOH 17

£21

(2008)Wrightson & Co

Dried herbs and flowers with cassia bark, anise and spicy fruit. Tremendous breadth of flavour, showing mature, well-judged tannins and a glorious long, spicy finish. Drink 2020-2040 Alc 14%

Fratelli Revello, Rocche

dell’Annunziata, La Morra

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.5 MG 16.75 EOH 17.25

£60

(2009)Private Cellar

ripe, scented nose of blue and black fruits with notes of vanilla and cloves. lovely wine, finishing with a spicy kick. It hides its 15% alcohol amazingly well. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 15%

Michele Chiarlo, Cerequio

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.25MG 17.25 EOH 17

£68.50-£70

Campbell’s of Leyburn, Fine & Rare, Millésima, Inverarity Morton

smooth and rich, juicy and bright with easygoing aromas and flavours of red berries, cherry and sweet spices. Impressive balance with great style and lovely aromas to finish. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14%

Anna Maria Abbona

17.25 (90+) IDA 17 MG 18 17 EOH 17.75

n/a UK

www.annamariabbona.it

Menthol and dark plum mix with cocoa and aromatic herbs. Chunky palate with good depth of ripe plum flavours matched by fresh acidity. easygoing, balanced wine. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14%

Amalia Cascina In Langa, Le Coste

di Monforte, Monforte d’Alba

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.25MG 17.75 EOH 17

n/a UK

www.cascinaamalia.it

Broad, earthy and spicy with enchanting blue fruit aromas. There’s a little alcoholic warmth, but the fruit camouflages the high alcohol much better than many other wines this vintage. very pure and long. Drink 2018-2040 Alc 15%

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Barolo 2010

Highly Recommended (continued)

17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Pecchenino, San Giuseppe

17 (90) IDA 16.5 MG 17.25 EOH 17.25

£34.79

Connolly’s

very clean, pure and penetrating aromas and flavours of dark cherry and spices, dried herbs and underbrush. It grows on the palate, leading to a long, aromatic finish with bitter chocolate and cedar. Drink 2016-2035 Alc 14.5%

Pietro Rinaldi, Monvigliero

17 (90) IDA 17.25 MG 16.75 EOH 16.75

n/a UK

www.pietrorinaldi.com

super-ripe aromas and flavours of sweet red cherry, raspberry jam and sweet spices. lively palate, showing lots of fresh fruit and acidity that refreshes but doesn’t score the mouth.

Drink 2019-2028 Alc 14.5%

Raineri, Monserra, Monforte d’Alba

17 (90) IDA 17 MG 17 EOH 17

n/a UK

www.rainerivini.com

subdued aromas and flavours of red cherry, liquorice and roses. Full, ripe and aromatic with notes of anise and cedar, and a tannic but polished bite to finish. Drink 2017-2032 Alc 14.5%

Renato Ratti, Rocche

dell’Annunziata, La Morra

17 (90) IDA 17 MG 17 EOH 17

£65.99

Vagabond, Uncorked

sweet fragrant and floral, fruit-cocktail nose: mango and red berry fruits. Delicious and jubilant palate with nectarine and peppery spice flavours, and more mango and passion fruit to finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5%

Scarpa, Tettimorra

17 (90) IDA 17.5 MG 17 EOH 16.5

£40-£59.99

Fine & Rare, The Winery

Broad and fresh with camphor-tinged blue fruit aromas and faded rose petals. hints of orange pekoe tea and oriental spices with chewy tannins and ripe red fruit flavours. Good structure and length. Drink 2018-2032 Alc 14%

Serradenari, La Morra

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 17.5 EOH 16.75

£26-£30

Farthinghoe Fine Wine, Vini Italiani

austere notes of quinine, camphor and herbs complement subdued dark cherry aromas. Impressive freshness of flavour with a wealth of spicy-toned aromas to follow. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14%

Marchesi di Barolo, Sarmassa,

Barolo

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 16.25 EOH 17.75

£35-£40

Millésima, Try Wines

Chocolate and coffee mingle with dark cherry and tar. super classic: sings of its grape variety and place. Finishes with peppery, slightly drying tannins. needs time. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%

Mauro Molino, Conca, La Morra

17 (90) IDA 17.25 MG 16.75 EOH 17

£49.50

Champagnes & Châteaux

Citrus zest, oriental spices and oolong tea aromas complement peach and red cherry notes. The fruit is beautifully ripe, the tannins are mature, and the finish is long and complex. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 14%

Negretti, Bricco Ambrogio,

La Morra

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 16.75 EOH 17.25

n/a UK

www.negrettivini.com

a real classic: warm, spicy, orange peel and clove aromas. ripe and spicy mature fruit flavours with plenty of firm but ripe tannins. Time will develop further nuance and depth. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 15%

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno,

Cannubi, Barolo

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 17.75 EOH 16.75

Poa

Berry Bros & Rudd

Broad, ripe and spicy with notes of nutmeg and clove over ripe black fruits. Powerful tannins, high acidity, and a full body with lingering sweet spice notes and aniseed to finish.

Drink 2019-2030 Alc 14%

Gianni Gagliardo, Preve

17 (90) IDA 17 MG 17 EOH 17

n/a UK

www.gagliardo.it

Coffee and wood smoke aromas over deep black fruits and fennel seed. Dense and chewy palate with youthful red and dark cherry flavours complemented by mint, cocoa and pepper. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 15%

Gemma, Colarej, Serralunga d’Alba

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 17.5 EOH 16.5

n/a UK

www.gemmacantine.it

ripe and scented nose of mature strawberry and plum. Floral, pristine clean wine of good balance. Fresh with bright fruit flavours plus anise and black pepper notes. Pretty. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14%

Highly Recommended (continued)

17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Bruna Grimaldi, Badarina,

Serralunga d’Alba

17 (90) IDA 17 MG 16.75 EOH 17.25

£50

Le Langhe

Playful nose of wood spice with full, round underlying ripe fruit aromas. Pungently floral with mouthcoating tannins but the finish is clean and dry – not drying. has real staying power. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 15%

Cantina del Nebbiolo, Cannubi

Boschis, Barolo

17 (90) IDA 16.5 MG 17.75 EOH 16.5

n/a UK

www.cantinadelnebbiolo.com

Dense, ripe aromas of black cherry, chocolate and spice. Big, ripe and full on the palate with pretty, cherry-menthol flavours. Bright acidity and floral notes contributing lift and verve. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14%

Casetta, Vigna Case Nere, La Morra

17 (90) IDA 17.5 MG 17 EOH 16.5

n/a UK

www.flli-casetta.it

herbs and underbrush meld with syrupy red cherry and raspberry fruit on the nose and palate. Full and firm palate with masses of dark fruit flavours and smoky-spicy aromas to finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14%

Ceretto, Brunate, La Morra

17 (90) IDA 17 MG 16.75 EOH 17.5

£90

Top Selection

Fresh, oaky and spicy – almost Burgundian. round, ripe and weighty palate of red cherry and citrus zest aromas and flavours that stand up to the oak. Finishes bright and peppery with noteworthy length. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 14.5%

Claudio Alario, Riva Rocca,

Verduno

17 (90) IDA 17.75 MG 17 EOH 16

£24

Wine Treasury

Wonderfully aromatic wine with hints of menthol, fresh flowers, black cherry and tar. rich, full and forward with sweet fruit flavours balanced by fresh acidity. Quite dense but very ripe tannins. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14.5%

Elio Grasso, Gavarini Chiniera,

Monforte d’Alba

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 17.25 EOH 17

£60

Mille Gusti

Coffee, mushroom and blueberry aromas with savoury, earthy notes. Finishes savoury and long with hints of root beer and tea mingling with the red fruit notes. a big-hitting Barolo!

Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14.5%

Tenuta L’Illuminata, Tebavio,

La Morra

17.25 (90+) IDA 17 MG 17 EOH 17.5

n/a UK

www.lilluminata.it

almond milk and cherry aromas with notes of mango and peach. Pure clean vibrant floral and red fruit flavours linger nicely on a refined frame. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5%

Attilio Ghisolfi, Bricco Visette,

Monforte d’Alba

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 17.75 EOH 16.75

n/a UK

www.ghisolfi.com

roses and stewed cherries with underbrush and savoury notes. Full and densely textured palate with very firm tannins but good aromatic development. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14.5%

Bosco Agostino, La Serra, La Morra

17 (90) IDA 16.5 MG 17.25 EOH 17

n/a UK

www.barolobosco.com

exotic fruit aromas are forward, ripe and fleshy with hints of spice and smoke. lots of freshness and good quality fruit – clean and clear with a charge of acidity. long, in a super-ripe style. Drink 2016-2035 Alc 14.5%

Pio Cesare

17.25 (90+) IDA 17.25 MG 17.5 EOH 17.25

£41.50-£51.67

Davy’s, Exel Wines, Harper Wells, Hedonism, Four Walls, IG Wines, Jeroboams, Lockett Bros, Millésima, Partridges, Planet of the Grapes, Portland Wines, Tasting Room

vibrant aromas and flavours of red cherry, oolong tea, mint and a hint of tar. ripe and full with lots of juicy fruit flavours. It’s edgy but has great typicity and strength, and the finish is long and hearty. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14.5%

Poderi Aldo Conterno, Bussia,

Monforte d’Alba

17.25 (90+) IDA 17 MG 16.75 EOH 18.25

£67.99

Bancroft, Farr Vintners, Hedonism

extremely floral nose with peach and apricot fruit, strawberry jam and spices. Full and savoury palate with earthy and bitter chocolate flavours. super smart, careful and clever with great balance. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14%

Rocche dei Manzoni, Perno, Vigna

Cappella di S. Stefano, Monforte

d’Alba

17.25 (90+) IDA 17 MG 17.25 EOH 17.75

n/a UK

www.barolobig.com

ripe and aromatic blue fruits, coffee, charred spice and cherry blossom. Good balance with some development and potential for further cellaring. spicy and easygoing on the finish. Drink 2016-2035 Alc 14%

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Barolo 2010

Curto, la Foia, Arborina, La Morra 16.5 (88)

16.75 16.5 16 ripe and full cordial fruit aromas with hints of coconut and butterscotch. Decent balance with an unobtrusive structure.

14.5% 2020-2025

£23 The Wine Society

Erbaluna, Vigna Rocche, Rocche dell'Annunziata, La Morra

16.5 (88)

16 17 16.5 spicy-toned flavours with plum and anise notes. very ripe and balanced with good fresh acidity.

14.5% 2017-2028

£40 Drink Italy

Fontanafredda 16.5

(88)

17.25 15.75 16.75 Clean, balanced, long and very fresh with lovely nebbiolo sour red cherry and floral elements. rich and full with good fruit/acid balance.

14% 2017-2028

£23-£28 Enotria, Exel Wines

Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio,

Monprivato, Castiglione Falletto 16.5 (88)

17 17.75 15 nicely balanced red cherry, citrus zest and faded flowers. Juicy fruit flavours

are balanced by good crisp acidity. 14% 2018-2035

Poa Berry Bros & Rud

Le Strette, Bergera Pezzole, Novello 16.5 (88)

17 16 16.5 Pronounced nose of rich fruit cake, red cherry and marzipan. Full with sweet

fruit attack; round and supple with warm cedar and plum flavours. 15% 2018-2027

n/a UK www.lestrette.com

Olivero Mario, Bricco Rocca, La Morra 16.5 (88)

16.5 16 16.75 super-ripe raspberry, kirsch and sweet spices on the nose and palate. Decent structure with strong oak notes to finish.

14.5% 2018-2028

£65 Enoteca Nord

Paolo Manzone, Meriame 16.5 (88)

16.25 17 16.25 lifted nose of blue fruits with chocolate and spice notes. Creamy texture with dark fruit flavours. Balanced palate with ripe tannins and fresh acidity.

14.5% 2018-2028

n/a UK www.barolomeriame.com

Ascheri 16.25

(87)

16.5 15.75 16.75 solid, deep and dense Barolo with brooding red and spicy dark fruit aromas and flavours. Full and fleshy palate but overwhelmed by tannins on the finish.

14.5% 2020-2022

£30 Bat & Bottle

Bric Cenciurio, Coste di Rose 16.25 (87)

15.75 17 16 very juicy – lots of fresh fruit on the nose with eucalypt and spice. Fresh round and full with plenty of juicy ripe fruit. Decent structure – will develop.

14% 2015-2030

n/a UK www.briccenciurio.com

La Fusina 16.25

(87)

16.25 15 17.25 notes of earth and underbrush with charred spicy notes. Finishes with

lingering saline and quinine notes and youthfully chewy tannins. 14% 2018-2022

£28 Pipai

Le Cecche, Sorano 16.25 (87)

17 15.75 16 sweet spices, cherry and flowers on a captivating nose. Juicy fruit with spicy notes of anise and clove. nice fruit but the oak is intrusive at this stage.

14.5% 2017-2025

n/a UK www.lececche.com

Piazzo 16.25

(87)

17.25 15.5 16.25 notes of green tea, hibiscus flowers, strawberry and redcurrant jelly. Well-balanced but lacks a bit of focus.

14% 2018-2025

n/a UK www.piazzo.it

Virna, Cannubi Boschis, Barolo 16.25 (87)

16.5 16.25 15.75 spicy oak and ripe red cherry aromas and flavours, with a hint of spicy chocolate. Decent balance with well-integrated oak.

14.5% 2018-2027

£20 Fine & Rare

Tenuta Montanello 16

(86)

16 16.75 15 Delicate minty red berries and rose petals on the pretty nose. The plush palate is loaded with ripe fruit flavours of fig and cherry.

14.5% 2015-2028

n/a UK www.tenutamontanello.it

Bosio, Boschi dei Signori 15.75 (85+)

16.5 16.75 14 Perfumed, penetrating red cherry and berry aromas are lifted by floral and

minty nuances. Well-balanced with a decent finish and promising aromas. 14% 2020-2030

n/a UK www.bosiovini.it

Elvio Cogno, Ravera 15.75 (85+)

16 16 15 Fresh with notes of cherry and mint. supple and balanced palate of some elegance and length with a spicy finish.

14.5% 2017-2030

£45 Stannary St Wine Co, Lay & Wheeler, Uncorked

Gianni Gagliardo, Serre 15.75 (85+)

16.75 16 14.5 hints of loam and underbrush complement potpourri, aromatic spices and black cherry. Big, rich and burly style with lots of dark fruit flavours.

14.5% 2018-2030

n/a UK www.gagliardo.it

Terre del Barolo 15.75

(85+)

16.5 16 14.75 straightforward aromas and flavours of red berry, camphor and peppery spearmint. Quite fresh and simple palate with a decent finish.

14% 2018-2025

£17-£25 Exel Wines, Bibendum PLB

Alasia 15.5

(85)

15.5 15.25 16 subdued floral and minty red berry aromas. spicy notes and a slightly green edge on the fresh palate. Tannins are smart and well integrated.

14% 2015-2022

£15.99 Boutinot, Define Food & Wine, Hennings, John Hattersley, The Secret Cellar

Alberto Voerzio, La Serra, La Morra 15.5 (85)

16 16 14.5 Fresh cherry liqueur and dark chocolate nose with strident oak. youthfully

chewy but with a bit too much alcohol and oak. 14.5% 2018-2025

£155 Millésima

Batasiolo 15.5

(85)

15.75 15.25 15.5 Big, beefy wine with chunky and spicy dark fruit flavours but little grace.

Quite fresh and forward but finishes short. 14% 2016-2025

£22.50 Mondial Wine Direct

Bersano, Nirvasco 15.5 (85)

16.25 16 14 very fresh sour red berry and cherry notes lifted by hints of flowers and citrus. some length with decent aromas on the finish.

14% 2018-2028

£45 Alivini

Bricco Giubellini 15.5 (85)

16.5 14 16 spicy, oaky nuances complement ripe red cherry and herb elements. subtly structured and rather lightweight.

14% 2018-2020

n/a UK www.briccogiubellini.it

Cascina Fontana 15.5

(85)

15.25 15.5 15.5 subdued aromas and flavours of stones, red cherry and quinine. rather closed palate with liquorice and coffee flavours and firm tannins to finish.

13.5% 2015-2025

£40 Berry Bros & Rudd

Ciabot Berton, Roggeri, La Morra 15.5 (85)

16.5 15 14.75 Clean and fresh with strong tannic backbone and bite, this ought to develop nicely. 14.5% 2016-2020 £31.95 (2008) Jeroboams

Marcarini, Brunate, La Morra 15.5 (85)

15.75 16 14.5 Quite broad and chunky with herb-streaked plum and oak aromas. Full and

forward with juicy fruit flavours and some length, if a little soft-centred. 14% 2016-2030

£30 Berry Bros & Rudd

Fratelli Ferrero, Manzoni, La Morra 15.25 (84)

16.5 15 14 Pungent floral and herbal notes give way to sweeter ripe red cherry and syrupy berry flavours on the long and textured finish.

14.5% 2020-2025

n/a UK www.fratelliferrero.net

Ascheri, Pisapola 15

(83)

14 16 15 Mushroom, prune and a hint of coffee. Medium-full body with lots of ripe, juicy fruit. very soft and approachable.

14% 2015-2025

£28-£34 Bat & Bottle, Exel, Great Western Wine, Nicolas, Roberts & Speight, Spirited Wines, Totnes Wine Co, Valvona & Crolla

Gagliasso, Torriglione, La Morra 15 (83)

15 14.75 15 Game and leather notes mixed in with very ripe red fruit. has ripe and soft tannins but lacks palate fruit and vigour.

15% 2016-2020

£40 Drink Italy

Podere Ruggeri Corsini, Bussia, Monforte d'Alba

15 (83)

16 15 14 old leather, pine cones and flowers complement red cherry and orange peel notes. rather pinched and mean palate.

14% 2018-2025

£33 Humble Grape

Recommended (continued)

15–16.75pts (83–89pts)

Wine Score IDA MG EOH Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists

Fair 13-14.75pts (76-82pts)

■ Clavesana, Olo 14.75 (82) ■ Stefano Farina 14.75 (82)

■ Tenuta Carretta, Cannubi, Barolo 14.25 (80+) ■ Sergio Barale, Bussia, Monforte d’Alba 13.75 (79) ■ Tenute Costa, Duecorti, Castelletto, Monforte d’Alba 13.75 (79)

■ Sylla Sebaste, Bussia, Monforte d’Alba 13.25 (77)

Faulty

■Sandrone, Le Vigne (corked)

For full UK stockist details, see p115

Next month’s panel tastings

latest-release spanish Garnacha

and australian dry riesling

Sordo, Gabutti

17 (90) IDA 17.5 MG 17 EOH 16.75

£30

Direct Wines

Cherry yoghurt, fresh strawberries and raspberry cordial aromas. Deep, pure penetrating flavours of red roses, sour red cherry, raspberry and fine minerals. Finishes with youthfully chewy tannins and plenty of life. Drink 2018-2032 Alc 14%

Tenuta Rocca, Bussia, Monforte

d’Alba

17 (90) IDA 16.75 MG 16.75 EOH 17.25

£30

Decorum Vintners

Clean and fresh aromas and flavours of liquorice, gunflint and black cherry syrup. Full, densely textured palate with concentrated black fruit flavours and firm tannins. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14%

Highly Recommended (continued)

17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Ascheri, Sainsbury's Taste the Difference

16.75 (89)

16.5 17 16.75 round and ripe with notes of plum, liquorice and cinnamon. Tannins are silky and the palate is smooth with red berry and flower flavours.

14% 2015-2030

£16.50 Sainsbury's

Aurelio Settimo, La Morra 16.75 (89)

16 17.5 17 high-toned cherry and menthol aromas with notes of tarragon and sage. strapping mouthfeel: pronounced tannins, high acidity and fresh flavours.

14% 2017-2035

£35 New Generation Wines

Cantina Tomaso Gianolio 16.75 (89)

16.75 16.75 16.75 Funky earthy tones and old leather mingle with menthol and red cherry on the nose. Balanced and aromatic. Pretty wine though not nearly ready.

14% 2017-2025

n/a UK +39 0172 61239

Cascina Cucco, Vigna Cucco, Serralunga d'Alba

16.75 (89)

16.5 17 16.75 ripe, full and smoky: blue fruits and charred spice. rich red fruit and toffee flavours are perked up by peppery spices.

14.5% 2019-2035

£25 (2008)

Barbera & Champagne

Cascina del Monastero, Bricco Luciani,

La Morra 16.75 (89)

17 16.75 16.75 Floral, ripe red cherry, cardamom and bergamot on the nose and palate. oaky

at the moment but ripe and fragrant fruit promises decent development. 14.5% 2018-2030

n/a UK www.cascinadelmonastero.it

Dacapo 16.75

(89)

16.5 16.75 17.25 Incense and mineral nose with figs and bramble fruit. round, soft and forward with ripe fruit flavours. Good balance already.

14% 2015-2025

£28.75 Askew Wine

Dezzani, Tradizione, San Carlo 16.75 (89)

16.75 16.5 17 Pot pourri and sweet spices complement sour red cherry and quinine on the enticing nose. Plush palate of full fruit flavours with developing spicy notes.

14% 2015-2028

£19.95-£24.95

widely available

Enzo Boglietti, Brunate, La Morra 16.75 (89)

16.75 16.5 16.75 super-ripe aromas of red cherry, sweet spices, quinine and cumin. Fresh and

quite juicy with pretty, upfront fruit flavours 14% 2018-2025

n/a UK www.enzoboglietti.com

Gianni Gagliardo 16.75

(89)

17.5 17.25 15.25 round, ripe and smoky nose of tar and raspberries. Impeccable balance and pristine aromas and flavours that just scream nebbiolo.

14.5% 2018-2030

£20 Fine & Rare

Giulia Negri, La Tartufaia, La Morra 16.75 (89)

16.5 17 16.5 slightly austere and tight aromas and flavours that open slowly with aeration to showcase red cherry, pot pourri and citrus zest.

14.5% 2018-2035

£31.50 Corney & Barrow

La Torricella, Monforte d'Alba, 16.75 (89)

17.25 16 16.75 Powdery dark chocolate nose with black cherry and violet notes. has weight and a real tannic spine but doesn't come across as dry or tough.

14.5% 2020-2025

£34.99 Red Squirrel Wine

Moscone Brothers, 15 Giornate, Monforte d’Alba

16.75 (89)

16.5 16.75 17 ripe and rosy with succulent spicy plum and cherry fruit. Muscular palate with sweet, opulent red cherry and stone fruit flavours.

14.5% 2018-2035

n/a UK www.cantinamoscone.com

Pecchenino, Le Coste 16.75 (89)

17 16.75 16.5 aromas of spice and seasoned wood with blue and black fruit perfume. not loaded with mind-blowing complexity, but has lots of charm.

14.5% 2017-2028

n/a UK www.pecchenino.com

Pelassa 16.75

(89)

16.5 16.75 16.75 Powerful oaky nose with ripe black fruit aromas. not the last word in complexity or length, but nice balance and plenty of appeal.

14% 2018-2030

n/a UK www.pelassa.com

Poderi Colla, Bussia, Dardi Le Rose, Monforte d'Alba 16.75 (89)

16.75 17.25 16 Fresh and spicy with nutmeg and clove adding to ripe plum and strawberry

aromas. Flavours are clean with textured strawberry and black pepper. 14% 2018-2038

£29.99 Bintwo, Boutinot, D Byrne & Co, Talking Wines,The Wine Cellar

Rivetto, Serralunga d'Alba 16.75 (89)

17.5 17.75 15 Big, deep and dense with ripe dark plum and smoky chocolate nuances adding complexity. evident but good acidity and ripe tannins too.

14.5% 2020-2035

£55 Ellis of Richmond

San Silvestro, Patres 16.75 (89)

16.75 17 16.75 Fresh with lifted fruit aromas of blackberry, chocolate and spice. Finishes tough and lean, but with a beautiful lingering perfume.

14.5% 2015-2028

£25 Hallgarten Druitt

Simone Scaletta, Chirlet 16.75 (89)

16.75 17 16.75 Fresh and roasted almonds on the nose with candied violets and dark plums.

lots of flavour with bitter chocolate, sage and clove notes on the finish. 14.5% 2018-2035

n/a UK www.simonescaletta.it

Terre da Vino, Essenze, Barolo 16.75 (89)

17 16.5 17 Big, rich and suave with juicy red berry and spice notes that echo nicely on the long, slightly warm finish. Well made.

14% 2018-2027

£27 Booths, Hennings, Les Caves du Patron, The Good Wine Shop, Vinum

Viberti, Buon Padre 16.75 (89)

16.5 16.25 17.5 Mixed berry nose with plum and chocolate. round, medium-full palate with good acidity and tannins. Fair length.

14.5% 2018-2025

n/a UK www.viberti-barolo.com

Battaglio 16.5

(88)

16.5 16.5 16.5 very oaky and chocolatey with some fresh fruit aromas. strapping tannins and pure red fruit characterise this still very youthful wine.

14% 2019-2028

n/a UK www.battaglio.com

Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis,

Castiglione Fallettto 16.5 (88)

16.75 16.75 15.75 austere coffee and cocoa notes complement bright red fruit and sandalwood.

Full and concentrated palate with herb-toned notes to finish. 14% 2020-2035

£38 Exel Wines, Les Caves de Pyrène

Costa di Bussia, Tenuta Arnulfo, Vigna Campo dei Buoi

16.5 (88)

17 16.5 16.25 lots of cherry and cedar – old spice cupboard aromas. round, quite full palate which is densely textured. Decent length with a round, supple body.

14% 2019-2025

n/a UK www.costadibussia.com

Recommended (continued)

15–16.75pts (83–89pts)

Wine Score IDA MG EOH Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists

(8)

1 0 8 | A p r i l 2 0 1 5 • D E C A N T E R

Barolo 2010

My top three

Ian D’agata

Giovanni Rosso, Cerretta, Serralunga

d’Alba This Barolo is a paragon of nebbiolo from serralunga (sour red cherry, raspberry, high acid, steely tannins and very ageworthy), and a great spot for the still relatively unknown but top-quality Cerretta vineyard. 18.75/20 (96/100) Drink 2019-2040

Massolino, Parafada, Seralunga d’Alba

Though Massolino is most famous for his great vigna rionda bottling, the Parafada rarely misses a beat, offering a typical serralunga deep, brooding personality and lots of nebbiolo purity and perfume. very ageworthy. 18.25 (94) Drink 2019-2040

Cordero di Montezemolo, Bricco

Gattera, La Morra There are sexier names in Barolo, but Cordero di Montezemolo is one of the most dependable, solid producers in the region. Its entry-level Monfalletto is always outstanding (a sure sign of care and competence), while this super-premium Bricco Gattera is made from the best grapes from the top, and finest, part of the la Morra hill. 17.75 (92) Drink 2018-2030

My top three

Michael Garner

Brezza, Sarmassa, Barolo a richly

deserved outstanding score. enzo Brezza has transformed this estate, introducing organic methods to realise the full potential of some excellently sited vineyards. This sarmassa 2010 is a beautifully aromatic wine which should age well. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2018-2030

Massolino, Parafada, Seralunga d’Alba

serralunga is the hot commune in Barolo, and Massolino one of the best producers. This Parafada is a rich and intense, fuller- bodied style of Barolo which combines power and precision. 18.5 (95) Drink 2019-2040

Sobrero, Ciabot Tanasio, Castiglione

Falletto Castiglione Falletto is the smallest of the major Barolo producing communes yet the wines showed remarkable consistency here. sobrero is an up-and-coming name producing ripe, juicy, balanced and drinkable Barolo. 18 (93 ) Drink 2017-2030

My top three

emily o’hare

Brezza, Sarmassa, Barolo From a 2.5ha

parcel of vines bordering la Morra, this wine is utterly beautiful, scented and finely tuned. The wine to pit against any grand cru Burgundy. The Brezzas say that it is best nine to 10 years after the harvest. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2018-2030

Poderi Aldo Conterno, Bussia, Monforte

d’Alba The Conterno family has been making wine since the 1700s and its wines reflect those generations of expertise. aged for over two years in large slavonian oak, the tannins support, the acidity refreshes and the fruit is glorious. 18.25 (94) Drink 2018-2035

Ferdinando Principiano, Serralunga

d’Alba Fragrant and fresh, winemaker Ferdinando Principiano says this is the most immediate of the Barolos he produces. Made from the ‘younger’ vines – 25 years old! – in his Boscareto vineyard, it shows a very sensitive side to serralunga. 18 (93) Drink 2019-2040

NB: the tasters’ top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learning the wines’ identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors

oUr resUlTs ConFIrM 2010 as an above-average, at times even memorable vintage. Those who like richer-bodied, fleshier Barolos tend to score the 2010s especially high; others who prefer slightly lower alcohol levels, more penetrating perfume and grace generally come away less impressed. still, there is no denying that these wines performed admirably, with an impressive 55% of the wines in our tasting scoring 17/20 points (90/100) or above.

For the most part, all the well-known estates performed admirably, and it is interesting to see that just about every commune produced wines of note, with each of the five major communes having a wine in the top 10. Castiglione Falletto and Monforte d’alba confirm themsleves as Barolo sure bets, with a high overall average score. also, the superb showing of many serralunga wines underscores why this commune is so popular. Given the generally warm year, it is not surprising that serralunga (with higher limestone in its soils and partially cooler microclimates) allowed for wines with more penetrating, racier aromas and flavours.

as for invividual producers, this is not the first time that a wine from Brezza comes out on top in a Decanter panel tasting and I dare say it won’t be the last, either. Its wines are excellently made, balanced and pure. other Barolo notables also showed well, with wines from all the usual suspects proving sure buys: look out for aldo Conterno, andrea oberto, Ceretto, Chiarlo, Francesco rinaldi,

Giacomo Fenocchio, Massolino, Paolo scavino, renato ratti, rocche dei Manzoni, vietti and many others.

Wines from usually stellar producers like Boglietti, Bric Cenciurio, Cavallotto, Ciabot Berton, Cogno and le strette were less successful, probably due to too ripe aroma and flavour profiles that are not every taster’s preference. In this light it is interesting to note that novello’s top two producers, Cogno and le strette, both produced very good wines but that slightly underperformed. Unfortunately, sandrone’s single bottle sent for the tasting was hopelessly corked.

In fact, a negative aspect of this tasting was the high number of corked bottles – this was not the case in our panel tasting of 2009 Barolos. But a very positive note (and one that was also evident in our 2009 tasting) is the increasingly high number of slightly less famous but exteremely capable and/or promising estates making great wines: Cascina adelaide, attilio Ghisolfi, Bruna Grimaldi, Cascina Ballarin, Cascina Bongiovanni, negretti, rivetto, serradenari, sobrero and Tenuta rocca were just some that shone. Without doubt, this bodes very well for Barolo’s future. D Ian D’Agata is a Decanter

World Wine awards regional co-Chair for Italy and was named Italy’s best wine journalist 2012 by the Comitato Grandi Crus d’Italia

Expert summary:

Ian D’Agata

With the major communes all faring well, plus a strong showing from most leading

producers and some up-and-coming names, you can buy with confidence in 2010

‘An impressive 55% of the wines

in our tasting scored 17/20

points (90/100) or above’

References

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