Use of Herbs in Skin Hair and Health Care Products

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(1)The Aromantic Guide to the use of .... Herbs in Skin, Hair and Health Care products. Kolbjorn Borseth.

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(3) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. The Aromantic Guide to the use of .... in Skin, Hair and Health Care products Kolbjorn Borseth. -1-.

(4) Precaution The information published here is not intended as a substitute for personal medical advice. Before making any decision regarding your health, please consult a physician, medical herbalist or other qualified health care practitioner. Pregnant women, the elderly or those with difficult medical conditions should be particularly careful when taking herbs internally or applying them externally. It’s a good idea to let your GP know that you are considering the use of herbs as some herbs may cross-react with some of the conventional drugs you are taking. Report any side effects to your health care practitioner.. Disclaimer This information is provided for our customers and is obtained from a variety of sources, including: the research, knowledge and experience of Kolbjorn Borseth; Lilly Johansson; books; and the Internet. While we have obviously done our utmost to provide correct information, there may be errors. USA: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form including digital reproduction without the prior written consent of the Publisher. Published by Aromantic Ltd 17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray, IV36 1EL, Scotland. Tel: (01309) 696900 Fax: (01309) 696911 E-mail: info@aromantic.co.uk Website: www.aromantic.co.uk © Copyright 2006 - Aromantic ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9 2.

(5) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Welcome… Welcome to the revised, updated and much expanded ‘Aromantic’s Guide to the use of Herbs as in Skin, Hair and Health Care products. Formerly known as Aromantic’s Education Pack 3, this updated Guide will help you to maximise the use of 37 common herbs in the making of your own Natural Skin, Hair and Body Care products. It is an excellent addition to the other Aromantic Guides as it again helps you to take your health and beauty into your hands. While I recommend that you attend an Aromantic education course or consult other Aromantic Guides or Recipe Brochures to gain the necessary know-how, this Guide contains the basic information and general methods you need to make many fantastic products. For our American readers, we have included Metric-US conversion tables. The measurement that most of our American customers have trouble with is ‘ml’, which stands for millilitre. I understand that most measuring jugs in America have ml on one side and oz (fluid ounces) on the other side. Also we refer to ‘g’ for grams. Buying a sensitive gram scale that can detect 1g may prove to be very helpful to all of our readers and customers, wherever you may live. I hope you will find this Guide useful in making your own professional, natural products with the real healing benefits that herbs can offer, whether you’re making gifts for friends or for selling to your clients. Enjoy the adventure.. Acknowledgements... I would like to thank the people who made this book possible. My great Swedish mentor, Lilly Johansson, who taught me so much about complementary health and natural healing methods. Many of the Compress Recipes in this book I owe to Lilly’s knowledge. Over 30,000 patients attended Lilly’s hospital, Follingegaarden for 30 years, from the mid-1960s. I wish to thank Susan Kemp, the researcher, editor, proofreader and my ‘ghost writer’ – another job done with your usual high standards. Of course, even the most interesting information can be boring if not presented correctly. Stewart Noble, who has worked closely with me for many years, has done great justice to the information with his beautiful and clear design work. Last but not least William Youssi, who, in his lovely drawings, captures the spirit of the stars of the book itself, the plants. Thank you all for your hard work and dedication. Kolbjorn Borseth, Founder of Aromantic. -3-.

(6) Contents... Welcome and Acknowledgements… Herbal medicine traditions… Constituents of herbs… The skin, hair and nails… How to prepare your Herbs for use in Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products… How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your recipes… Tinctures… Herbal CO2 Extracts… Hydrolates… Macerated Herb Oils… Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty… Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems… Skin Toners… Compresses, Poultices and Plasters… Poultices… Gels and Creams… Ointments, Shampoos, Conditioners, Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect Repellents… A description of Herbs and their application… Aloe Arnica Birch Chamomile Chickweed Cleavers Comfrey Coltsfoot Cornflower Dandelion Echinacea Elderflower Eyebright Ginkgo Ginseng Horse Chestnut Horseradish Horsetail Hyssop Lady’s Mantle Lavender Lemon Balm Marigold Myrrh Nettle, Stinging Orris Root Peppermint Plantain Rose Rosemary Sage St. Johns Wort Thyme Tormentilla Root Wild Pansy Witch Hazel Yarrow Glossary… Metric US Conversion Tables… Bibliography… Biographies and List of Suppliers… 4. 3 5 5 10 11 11 12 12 13 13 14 16 16 17 19 20 22 23 25 27 29 31 33 34 36 37 38 39 41 42 44 45 46 47 49 50 52 53 55 56 58 59 62 63 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 77 79 80 82 85 86 87.

(7) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Herbal medicine traditions... Herbalism is the oldest form of medicine and extends right back to the earliest history of mankind. All cultures have long folk medicine traditions that include the use of herbs and plants. Even in ancient cultures, people methodically collected information on herbs and developed welldefined herbal pharmacopoeias. The ancient Egyptian priests, who were the physicians in that culture and time, prescribed many remedies used today, such as Olive Oil, Myrrh and Juniper Berries. The first European botanical author in our recorded history was probably the Greek, Theophrastos Eresios, who lived from about 370BC - 285BC. Many other famous European authors followed, such as Galen, Paracelsus, Gerard, and Culpeper, to name a few. Well into the 20th century, and still today, much of the pharmacopoeia of scientific medicine was derived from the herbal lore of native peoples. Many drugs commonly used today are of herbal origin. Indeed, about one-quarter of the prescription drugs dispensed by community pharmacies in the United States contain at least one active ingredient derived from plant material. So, the roots of herbalism lie in the ancient past and still play an essential role in our healing traditions and will continue to do so on our journey into the future.. Constituents of herbs... The active constituents of herbs are those substances, which perform a specific therapeutic function. Herbs are very chemically complex and they contain thousands of biologically active compounds over and above their everyday components and metabolites, which are called primary compounds. The primary compounds, such as carbohydrates, lipids, nucleotides and peptides are shared by all living organisms and are central to life processes. The secondary compounds are derived from primary compounds, but are not central to metabolism, hence their name. These chemical constituents of plants, often called phytochemicals, act in synergy, creating a greater therapeutic power together than if on their own. This synergy also tends to counteract the possible side effects of an individual component. Where there are several active ingredients, a herb may be used for different purposes. St John's Wort, for instance, enhances mood and is also anti-inflammatory and antiviral. Numerous studies indicate that phytochemicals in herbs and spices may be accountable for their health effects. Different herbs each contain a wide variety of active phytochemicals and constituents. The chemically distinct, but often overlapping, classes of constituents are mainly: Terpenoids – such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes, triterpenes, tetraterpenes, saponins, iridoids, carotenoids and steroids. Phenolic Acids – such as tannins, gallic acid, ellagic acids, capsaicin, rosmarinic acid, quinones, salicylates and lignins. Glycosides – such as flavonoids, glucosinolates and cyanogens. Phytosterols – such as beta-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, brassicasterol, delta-7stigmasterol and delta-7-avenasterol. Alkaloids – such as caffeine, theobromine, theophylline. -5-.

(8) Polysaccharides – such as gums and mucilages. Peptides – combinations of amino acids. Peptides combine to make proteins, including antigens. Also of interest are Essential Oils, Resins, Vitamins, Minerals, Acids, Antibiotics and Heterosides, which often contain several of the above constituent classes. Despite the widespread use of medicinal herbs, much research is still required to identify the active constituents and understand their mode of action but the medical and folk herbalist traditions from around the world have gone through a lot of trial and error to discover the wellaccepted benefits of herbs we know about today.. More about some of the constituents found in herbs... Alkaloids Usually derivatives of amino acids, an alkaloid is a nitrogenous organic molecule that has a pharmacological effect on humans and other animals. The name derives from the word alkaline; originally, the term was used to describe any nitrogen-containing base (an amine in modern terms). Alkaloids are found as secondary metabolites in plants (e.g. in potatoes and tomatoes), animals (e.g. in shellfish) and fungi, and can be extracted from their sources by treatment with acids (usually hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid, though organic acids such as maleic acid and citric acid are sometimes used). Even though many alkaloids are poisonous (such as strychnine or coniine), some are used in medicine as analgesics (pain relievers) or anaesthetics, as sedatives, vasoconstrictors and as antispasmodics particularly morphine and codeine. Other well-known alkaloids are morphine, cocaine, strychnine, quinine, codeine, solanine, and of course, nicotine. Most alkaloids have a very bitter taste and act primarily on the central nervous system. Alkaloids are approximately 2/3 fat-soluble and are readily absorbed by the body through the mucous membranes and also partly through healthy skin. Herbs with a high alkaloid content should not be used in Skin Care products. Bitter Principle Herbs that taste bitter act as stimulating tonics for the digestive system. Bitter principle is a group of chemicals that have a severely bitter taste. Bitter tasting compounds cause a reflex in the taste buds which stimulates the secretion of saliva, digestive juices and secretions from the gall bladder and also to stimulate the liver, helping hepatic elimination. Bitter herbs offer excellent health benefits and should be taken for that reason every day as a tonic. The taking of bitter herbs as a daily tonic is not as popular as it once was, leading to a craving for sweet tasting foods. Examples of herbs with a high bitter principle are Devil’s Claw, Hops, Burdock, Dandelion, etc. and are easily dissolved in warm water. Herbs with a high Bitter principle content should not be used in Skin Care products. Glycosides Consist of a sweet and non-sweet component. The non-sweet component determines the glycoside's pharmacological properties. Some of the better known glycosides include cardiac glycoside found in foxglove and lily of the valley and flavonoid glycoside found in buckwheat. Glycosides are normally not absorbed by the skin. They are generally either water or alcohol soluble. 6.

(9) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Saponins are glycosides with a distinctive foaming characteristic, which are particularly useful in Skin and Hair Care products. Saponins are natural surfactants, or detergents, found in many plants, and so are used in Shampoos, as well as Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles. Saponins are also used as foaming agents in drinks such as root beer (popular in America), in improving the head in beer, etc. They are also used in fire extinguishers as a foam producer and in photographic emulsions. They can be used in industry and mining for activities such as ore separation. They reduce the surface tension in a water solution and have cleansing, antifungal, antibacterial, emollient and emulsifying properties, which are important properties for cosmetic applications. They can be used to increase reabsorption of substances (e.g. medicines and minerals) in the mucous membranes and partially in the skin. Saponins are antiseptic and dissolve carbohydrates and scabs. They help other glycosides to dissolve in water and are themselves water soluble. Generally they are not absorbed by the skin when it is unbroken. Saponins are found in Birch Leaves, Cowslip, Wild Pansy, Horsetail, Yucca, Soapbark and Soapwort. To extract saponins from herbs and roots they must be boiled for 15-20 minutes. Carbohydrates These are fructooligosaccharides (FOS), immunomodulating polysaccharides, gums, mucilages, dietary fibres, cellulose, pectin, & organic acids. When combined with water, carbohydrates form viscous compounds producing a variety of runny to more solid Gels. They can be used externally for infections and inflammations and internally in the mouth, throat, stomach and digestive tract where they coat the skin or mucous membranes with a protective film or barrier against mechanical or chemical damage. They relieve pain, are cooling and emollient (softening). They are easily dissolved in water. Some are used as Emulsifiers and Thickening Agents. Some examples of herbs with a high carbohydrate content are: Coltsfoot, Lime Blossom, Linseed, Agar-agar, Carrageen, Gum Tragacanth, Gum Arabic, Guar Gum, etc. Tannins A group of chemical compounds that occur naturally in some herbs, teas, fruits, such as red grapes, and in tree bark and wood – part of a larger group of substances called phenolics. The most important common property of tannins is that they form insoluble bonds with proteins. They bind (chelate) albumen, a protein which is found in both the skin and mucus membranes, forming a layer of protection against infection and irritation. This in turn prevents infecting organisms from invading the body, and helps to hasten the healing process. They increase the affected tissue's ability to resist infections and reduce its vulnerability to chemical or mechanical damage. They also reduce redness and swelling in cases of inflammation. Tannins are antiseptic because they inhibit bacterial growth. They reduce sensitivity in the skin and mucous membranes and therefore alleviate pain. This shuts out bacteria and hastens the healing of sores and inflamed mucous membranes and skin. Used in its pure form, at full strength, it tans leather. In lower concentrations in plants, and in their natural context together with other substances such as sugars, starches and other viscous substances, tannins normally have a mild and superficially astringent effect on the skin and mucous membranes. Their astringent and antiseptic properties make them ideal for sore throat Gargles, diarrhoea, Wound Compresses, weepy rashes, and more. Tannins also offer antioxidant protection. Some herbs high in tannins are Witch Hazel, White Oak Bark, Tormentilla, Plantain and Red Raspberry, Condurango, Willow, Cinnamon, Queen of the Meadow, and black or green tea.. -7-.

(10) Some examples of herbs high in tannins in more detail: Oak Bark: highly astringent and used for haemorrhoids and, internally, for diarrhoea. Witch Hazel: mildly astringent, used for Skin Toners, skin infections and haemorrhoid preparations. Tormentilla Root: used in Mouth Washes and Gargles and in Toothpaste for bleeding and inflammation of the gums. Blueberries: used internally for diarrhoea (needs to be boiled first). There are also smaller quantities of tannins in St. John's Wort, Peppermint and Sage. The most common tannins found in e.g. Oak Bark and Witch Hazel are water soluble. Others are more difficult to dissolve. Tannins are not usually absorbed through the skin, but where there are large open sores or burns they can be absorbed in quantities which can damage the liver, kidneys and blood circulation. Herbs containing tannins are used mainly for skin infections (acne), small sores, burns and chilblains, to staunch bleeding (e.g. in haemorrhoids), for bleeding gums, inflammation in the mouth and throat, and for weeping eczema. Herbs high in tannins should not be used for extensive burns. Other constituents Apart from those already mentioned, there are other substances found in herbs which are of lesser pharmaceutical importance. These are substances which can have a certain application or which can negatively affect a Herbal Extract or finished product, e.g. certain pigments which produce greys or lighter or darker green pigmentation in, for example, Shampoos or Skin Creams. One example is the way too much Nettle in a Shampoo will produce a greyish-green colour. Fats and Waxes Fats are esters which occur between fatty acids and the alcohol Glycerine. Waxes are esters which occur between fatty acids and high molecular weight alcohols such as cetyl and myristyl alcohols. Fats and Waxes are alcohol soluble (96%) and partially soluble in other Fats and Oils. They are not water soluble but will melt in warm water. Not all of the components will dissolve and those that do, will float on the surface of the water. Resins and Balsams Resin is usually a yellowish brown plant secretion of vegetable origin. Resins are soluble in Ether, Alcohol, and Essential Oils, but not in water. Resins exude from trees along with Essential Oils, Gums, etc, and are found in a liquid or semi-liquid state. They are composed of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and are supposed to be formed by the oxidation of the Essential Oils. When mixed with Gum they form Gum Resins. A Balsam is a solution of Resin in Essential Oil with a syrupy consistency. When a Balsam is distilled in most cases a Resin and Essential Oil are produced (e.g. Gum Benzoin and Benzoin). Balsams are alcohol soluble (96%), partially soluble in oil but difficult to dissolve in water. Types of Balsam include Balsam Peru, Balsam Tolu and Galbanum Oil. Some of the Essential Oils produced from Balsams include Myrrh, Frankincense and Benzoin.. 8.

(11) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Pigments Pigments can be fat soluble, e.g. carotenoids, which are natural fat-soluble pigments found in certain plants. Carotenoids, another name for carotenes, provide the bright red, orange, or yellow coloration of many vegetables, serve as antioxidants, and can be a source for Vitamin A activity. Another fat-soluble pigment is xanthophyll, a yellow or orange pigment in plants that is responsible for the production of carbohydrates by photosynthesis and when found in to be found in certain plants in concentrations which produce certain pharmaceutical effects, as in Marigold (Calendula). Other pigments are water soluble, e.g. chlorophyll, which in normal Herbal Extracts has barely any effect on the skin. Salicylic Acid A glycoside, salicylic acid is a mild acid that works as a keratolytic agent i.e. it encourages the sloughing of dead skin cells. It stimulates the peeling of the top layer of skin and the opening of plugged follicles, which helps re-establish the normal skin-cell replacement cycle. For milder acne, salicylic acid helps unclog pores to resolve and prevent lesions. Herbal Extracts containing salicylic acid used topically in the right dosages have a pain-relieving, antibacterial effect. Plants containing salicylic acid are mostly used internally for inflammations and externally in liniments for rheumatic aches and muscle pain. The highest concentration of salicylic acid is to be found in Wintergreen. Smaller quantities are found in plants like Meadowsweet and Willow Bark in the form of phenol glycosides which become converted into salicylic acid in the body. Some people are very sensitive to salicylics and can react strongly even to small doses. Minerals All plants contain different quantities of minerals. These can be extracted into water, for example the silica from Horsetail and the iron from Stinging Nettles. Due to the size of their molecules, Minerals are not always absorbed by unbroken skin. They can have a superficial, slight moisturebinding effect and certain minerals such as silica can soothe itchiness. Vitamins Most of the B vitamins are water soluble. Vitamin C is water soluble but is altered when boiled. Water-soluble vitamins do not penetrate very far into the skin. They can have a certain moisturebinding effect. A and E vitamins are fat soluble and cannot be dissolved in water. In the quantities in which they are to be found in the most common herbs, vitamins have hardly any effects on the skin. The fat-soluble vitamins are very easily absorbed by the skin. Proteins Can have a certain moisture-binding effect on the skin. They do not penetrate the skin. Enzymes Become inert at temperatures between 50-70 ºC. They become altered when boiled. Hormones Most hormones are water soluble and tolerate heat. Other hormones such as oestrogen, e.g. in Hops, are fat soluble and are best extracted into oil or alcohol. Fat-soluble hormones are easily absorbed by the skin. -9-.

(12) The Skin… The skin is a very important organ from the therapeutic and health and beauty standpoint. The skin has two coats: Epidermis – the outer layer of skin you can actually see. This layer consists of stratified epithelium in two sub-layers: the outer layer of dead keratinised cells; and the inner layer, which is composed of epidermal living cells, gradually growing outwards to form keratin. This inner layer of the epidermis also contains melanocytes, which are responsible for producing the pigment, which gives rise to the colour of your skin. Dermis – the tough elastic layer that lies underneath the epidermis. Also known as the true skin, it consists of an upper and lower dermis. Composed entirely of living cells, it consists of bundles of tough elastin and collagen fibres which give your skin its elasticity, firmness and strength. The dermis is also richly supplied with blood vessels and nerves, which feed vital nutrients to feed the outer skin layer as well as regulating and facilitating body temperature. The most important function of the dermis is respiration. The dermis also determines the tone of the skin. The Lower Dermis is the innermost layer of the skin and where the various glands such as the oil (sebum) and sweat glands originate. From here, they rise to the surface of the skin to eliminate waste matter and also regulate temperature. The lower dermis also acts as a cushion for the rest of the skin and contains the finely distributed muscles of the skin, which regulate body temperature. Beneath these two coats lies a layer of fat cells, the Subcutaneous Layer. The skin has a slightly acidic coating of oil at the surface. This coating protects the skin against some bacteria. Below the surface is a complex of sweat and oil glands, hair follicles, blood vessels, nerves, and muscle tissue. These are held together by tough connective tissue called collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin are very important in determining the health of the skin. The relative health of the collagen determines the contour of the skin, how wrinkled and lined it is. Healthy collagen is often called soluble collagen, because it can absorb and hold moisture. The problem of skin aging is not considered a medical problem. Since dermatology is restricted to medical treatment in cases of skin diseases, cosmetics deal more with the maintenance and improvement of skin condition.. The Hair... The hair consists of modified eptihelium, growing from hair follicles in the skin. At the base of the follicle, epithelial cells form the root, maintaining growth of hair. The sebaceous glands are small saccular glands attached to the hair in the dermis. They secrete an oily substance called sebum, which serves to lubricate the skin.. The Nails... The nails are hard plates of modified epithelium, protecting the ends of fingers and toes. They grow from the roots at the bases of the nails. Note: Epithelium is a tissue composed of a layer of cells and can be found lining internal (e.g. endothelium, which lines the inside of blood vessels) or external (e.g. skin) free surfaces of the body. Functions of epithelial cells include secretion, absorption and protection. 10.

(13) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. How to prepare your Herbs for use in Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products... In this Guide you may find that I ask you to add a ‘Herbal Infusion’, a ‘Herbal Decoction’, or ‘CO2 Extract’ of a certain herb as one of the ingredients in your products such as Shampoos, Creams, Skin Toners, Pet Care products, Ointments, Hair Treatments, Toothpastes, etc. In addition, you may be asked to make a ‘Poultice’ or a ‘Compress’. Below you will find definitions of these terms and, if appropriate, how to prepare them. Infusions An Infusion is made like a tea. If using a Herbal Infusion instead of boiling water in your Recipe, make it as follows: Allow 2-3g dried herbs per 100ml water (please note that sometimes the amount of dried herb used will vary according to strength needed). Pour boiling water over the herbs. Cover and allow to stand for 10-20 minutes. Strain and use according to the Method in the Recipe. Decoctions When using Horsetail, or the tougher parts of a plant like the roots, seeds, berries or the bark of a plant, make a Decoction rather than an Infusion. Making a Decoction involves boiling the herbs. Put around 2-3g or more of the dried, or 20-30g of the fresh, herb parts into 100ml of water and cover the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and continue to boil for about twenty minutes. You may need to add a bit more water if steam escapes. Steep and strain the mixture and use according to the Method in the Recipe. When making Decoctions and Infusions do not use an aluminium pan – use a stainless steel, glass, ceramic or enamel (make sure it’s not chipped, though) pan.. How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your Recipes... You can replace the water content in your Cream, Lotion, Foam Bath, Gel, Shampoo, and Conditioner Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion. Infusions and Decoctions are usually added to the Recipe at the Water Stage of making Creams and Lotions. Don’t use Infusions or Decoctions in Ointment Recipes – use the Tincture and/or Essential Oil and CO2 Extract instead. Use the Infusion or Decoction as it is, or combined with other ingredients, for Wound Washes, Mouth Washes, Eye Baths or Washes, Compresses, and in Whole Body Baths. See individual herb listings for any variations, as well as for the strength of Infusions and Decoctions. , Higher amounts of Preservatives are needed when using Herbal Infusions & Decoctions You need to double the amount of Preservative in your product when you substitute Herbal Infusions for Boiling Spring Water in Recipes that contain Boiling Spring Water. Because natural herbs are not radiated, they naturally carry bacteria and fungi. For this reason, use 0.8% of Parabens, or 1.2g of Preservative K, if using a Herbal Infusion or Decoction in your products. Please note that Sodium benzoate is an inappropriate Preservative to use in products that contain Herbal Infusions and Decoctions as you would have to use a very large amount of it for it to work effectively. , Do not double the amounts of Preservatives found in this Guide as they have already been adjusted!. - 11 -.

(14) Tinctures... A Tincture is an extraction of a fresh or dried herb using alcohol. The alcohol serves two purposes: preservation and extraction of active, healing ingredients in the herb. When using these in your Recipes, you do not have to make an Infusion or Decoction, just follow the instructions on the Recipe for how much to add and when. You can make Tinctures using any part of the plant that is appropriate for your use e.g. roots, leaves, flowers, etc. Simply chop up the herb or part of herb and pack it in a jar half filled with the strongest vodka you can buy. Use 80-100g fresh herbs, or 8-10g dried herbs to 150ml alcohol. Seal the jar and leave it in on a sunny windowsill for 2-3 days. Then store in a dark place at room temperature for 2-3 weeks, shaking it every day. Strain through muslin cloth and store in a dark bottle. The Tincture will keep for 2-3 years. Of course, you don’t have to make your own Tinctures; they are available to buy from health food shops, herbalists and other suppliers such as Aromantic. (See list at the end of the book.) , When making a Tincture it is important to make sure that the alcohol totally covers the herbs. Add more alcohol if necessary. How to use Tinctures in your Recipes You can replace some of the water in your Cream, Lotion, Gel, Foam Bath, Shampoo and Conditioner Recipes with up to 10% of a Tincture. Use up to 10% in Ointments, Wound Washes, Mouth Washes, about 5% Compresses and 1-2% in Eye Baths/Washes. For Whole Body Baths, use about 15ml for the whole bath. Note: Some Mouth Wash Recipes require more than 10% of the Tincture. See individual herb listings for any variations.. Herbal CO2 Extracts... Not all of our ‘Herbal’ CO2 Extracts are herbs, some are plants, so should rightly be called Botanical CO2 Extracts. Whatever we call them, they have healing and beneficial properties that make them ideal for making powerful, effective and healing Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products. In the cosmetic field, CO2 Extracts are used as bioactive components in Creams, Skin Oils, Body Milks and Lotions, Before and After Sun products, etc. Supercritical CO2 fluid extraction is an established process for the decaffeination of tea and coffee, as well as for hop ingredients, of perfumery and aromatherapy. Botanical CO2 Extracts are becoming more and more popular. The intention is to eliminate harmful organic solvents used in the past for the production of oil-loving Botanical Extracts, to avoid environmental pollution and to have a high grade extract composition very close to the natural raw material. They are free of any solvent residues and diluting agents and are composed almost exclusively of the raw material's ingredients without any dilution and accordingly can be used in a fairly low dosage. This low dosage means that a high quality, active cosmetic product can be created at a reduced cost. For more information about the Botanical CO2 Extracts please see Aromantic’s Education Pack 2. How to use Botanical CO2 Extracts in your products Add 1-3% to your products. If using more than one CO2 Extract, the total percentage used in your product doesn’t need to exceed 6%. CO2 Extracts can be added even when you have already used Infusions, Decoctions or Tinctures to your product. They will greatly enhance the benefits of the product. 12.

(15) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Hydrolates... Herbal and Floral Waters, also known as Hydrosols or Hydrolates, are by-products of the process of making Essential Oils. During that process, the herbs and flowers are distilled with Spring Water. The water is heated and presses itself through the plants as vapour, which collects the Essential Oils and other ingredients present. The Essential Oils - which float on the surface of the water - are removed, leaving the Herbal or Floral Water, which contains a small quantity of Essential Oil and other water-soluble agents from the plant. Nothing else, e.g. Preservative, is added. , Some companies add up to 10% alcohol to preserve the Hydrolate. How to use Hydrolates in your products Hydrolates can sometimes be used as they are, as Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Hair Rinses, for Aromatic Baths, Baby Baths, on Compresses or in Sprays for freshening up the skin. They can also be used to replace, or partially replace, water in various Skin Care products along with other ingredients, in e.g. Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Face Masks, Creams, Lotions or Shampoos. , Some Hydrolates are too strong to use undiluted – please follow the Recipes.. Macerated Herb Oils... Dried or fresh plant material (fresh plants are best because volatile oils are still intact) is macerated by being steeped in a Vegetable Oil and agitated (shaken vigorously) daily for anything from several days to 6 weeks. An effective method is to leave the jar or bottle in the sun for 3-4 days and then storing it in the dark for the rest of the maceration period. Plant material is then removed by filtering the Oil, leaving the Oil with some of the therapeutic constituents and properties of the plant material, including traces of Essential Oils, and even the colour of the plant material. Examples of Macerated Oils commonly available are: St. John's Wort Oil; Carrot Oil; Marigold Oil; Arnica Oil; Aloe Vera Oil; Comfrey Oil; Chamomile Oil; and others. Macerated Oils should not be confused with Essential Oils. Most Macerated Oils contain extracts of these plants in a Vegetable Oil base such as Sunflower, Sesame, Olive, Peanut or Soy Oil. None of these plants contain Essential Oils in any significant quantities when prepared this way, which their price should reflect. In the case of St. John's Wort, Chamomile, Marigold and Arnica the flowers are steeped in Oil and the fat-soluble ingredients 'migrate' from the plant to the Oil. In Carrot Oil, various extracts from the Carrot are mixed with a Base Oil. , It is very important to make sure that the Vegetable Oil is covering all of the parts of the fresh or dried herbs you are using to make the Macerated Oil.. - 13 -.

(16) Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty... Herbal Teas – Internal use Make an Infusion or Decoction and drink when cool enough to do so. , If unsure whether to take any herb, please consult your doctor or find a qualified medical herbalist in your area. There are many herbs that are not suitable for use during pregnancy, especially herbs that are abortifacients, emmenagogues and strong laxatives. Please make sure that you check with an appropriate authoritative guide or consult a medical herbalist. As a general guideline, don’t take the same herb internally for more than 2 weeks in a row. You can alternate it with another herb. Herbal Baths – Whole Body, Foot and Hand Method 1 - The simplest way is to make a strong Infusion or Decoction of herbs and allow it to stand for 20-30 minutes. Once strained, this can be added to the bath water or water you’re using for your Foot or Hand Bath. Method 2 - You can also place the herbs in the bath. This method is preferable for the use of such herbs as Plantain and Lady's Mantle for the treatment of eczema and itchiness. When placing the herbs directly into the bath, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the herbs, leave for 10 minutes, before adjusting the temperature to allow the person to enter the bath. The person should stay in the bath for at least 20 minutes, adding more hot water if necessary in order to keep the water as hot as possible. The person should not rinse or towel-dry the body and should allow the body to air-dry instead. Method 3 - Place fresh or dried herbs in a muslin bag, tie the bag up with string and place in the bath. As in the above example, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the bag, wait ten minutes and then follow the same procedure as above. Method 4 - To use herbs in your Foam Bath Recipes, make a strong Infusion or Decoction of the herbs and strain them. Quantities of herbs to Use in Herbal Baths For a Whole Body Bath use approximately 50-100g of dried herbs or 500-1000g fresh herbs. For a Foot or Hand Bath use 15-20g of dried herbs or 150-200g of fresh herbs. If using Method 1 above to make an Infusion or a Decoction, then use: 1 litre of water per 15-20g of dried herbs 2-3 litres water per 150-200g of fresh herbs 3 litres of water per 40-50g of dried herbs 6-7 litres water per 400-500g fresh herb After letting it stand, you would strain it and add the resulting Infusion or Decoction to the Bath. Tips x x. You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers or leaves or roots you are using. Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.. 14.

(17) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Base Recipe for Foam Baths (This Recipe makes approximately 1 litre.) 200-250ml of Foam Bath Emulsifier 750-800ml Boiling Water/or Boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction 1 teaspoon (5ml) of Preservative (or double if using Herbal Infusions or Decoctions) 10-20ml Essential Oils (Maximum 2%) If using Preservative K, add 1 teaspoon Lactic Acid (or 2 teaspoons if using 2 teaspoons of Preservative K) Method for making Foam Baths 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.. Measure the Foam Bath Emulsifier in a measuring jug and pour into an oven-proof bowl. Measure the boiling water or boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction and pour into the bowl with the Foam Bath Emulsifier. Add the Preservative. Stir well until the mixture becomes thick. Place the bowl in a sink of very cold water, stirring the mixture occasionally. When it is cooled to below 30°C, blend in your own Essential Oils and add Lactic Acid if using Preservative K. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and then, if you prefer, add more cold water to achieve the consistency you require. Pour into bottles and label.. Adding Essential Oils to Foam Bath Recipes Adding different types of Essential Oil blends to your Foam Bath will affect the consistency of your Foam Bath. Adjust once made by: adding more Foam Bath Emulsifier if too thin; or more cold water if too thick. The next time you make the same Recipe, adjust your Recipe so that you add more Foam Bath Emulsifier or water, whatever the case may be, from the start. When using Essential Oils in your Baths, it is important that the Essential Oils are dispersed evenly throughout the whole bath and that the drops are not floating on the surface. This ensures that the Essential Oils penetrate the skin correctly. This is especially important for sensitive skin types or with conditions such as eczema. Using Essential Oils in Foam Baths is the easiest way to ensure that they are evenly dispersed in the bath. Quantities of herbs to use in your Foam Bath Recipes To make the Infusion or Decoction to use in your Foam Bath Recipe, use approximately 1 litre per 15-20g of dried herbs or approximately 3 litres of water per 150-200g of fresh herbs for each 1 litre of Foam Bath that you are making. Tips x. x x. When boiling or infusing your herbs, you need to start off with more water than your eventual Recipe states you need of an Infusion or Decoction as water will evaporate or be absorbed by the herb, e.g. if you need a 65ml Decoction, you may need to use 100ml water. You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers or leaves or roots you are using. Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.. - 15 -.

(18) Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems When using Baths to treat specialised skin problems such as eczema it is important to start with calming herbs such as Chamomile. This is especially important if the skin is very infected. You can use Chamomile in your Baths for a whole week, but if using other herbs, use them only for one night at a time and alternate with one or more herbs. After using the Chamomile or other calming herbs, you can continue with a drawing and activating herb such as Wild Pansy and then alternate with Chickweed, for example, if the problem is itchy skin or eczema. Eye Baths You can buy plastic Eye Bath cups from the local pharmacy and put the Infusion, Decoction or diluted Tincture (1-2% diluted in water e.g. 1-2ml of the Tincture in 100ml of water) in the cup before placing the eye over the cup and tilting the head back to wash the eye. Make sure you have covered the neck and chest area with a towel or something similar as the liquid will run down your face. , Never use hot liquid in your Eye Bath – make sure the liquid is cold, cool or lukewarm. Herbal Facial Steams Boil water and add enough to almost fill a plastic, ceramic or stainless steel basin. Add a few pinches of the dried herbs of your choice to the water in the basin and allow to draw for a few minutes. Sit at a table with a towel over your head and cover the basin of hot water in front of you. Keep your head at a comfortable distance above the water so the steam reaches your face. Sit for 5-10 minutes with your head in the 'tent' and allow the herbs and the steam to do their work. Essential Oils can be used instead of herbs. You can use the bathroom sink instead of a basin – just take a chair into the bathroom so that you can sit comfortably while taking the steam.. Skin Toners... Base Toner Recipe (Makes approximately 250ml) 5 drops Essential Oil 20ml Herbal Tincture 10-20 ml Moisturiser – either Glycerine, Honey Moisturiser, Sorbitol or NFF Moisturiser 210ml Still Water, Aloe Vera, Water or Hydrosols General Method for making Toners 1. 2. 3.. Blend all of the ingredients together in the order of the Recipe into a bottle. Shake the bottle every time you add a new raw material. Top up with Still Water, Hydrolate or Infusion. Use the different Hydrolates, Tinctures, Essential Oils or other Active Ingredients which suit you best.. Note: The shelf life of the Toners in this Guide without added Preservatives is 6 months. If Preservatives are added, the shelf life is increased to 2 years. Simply add 10 extra drops of Preservative per 100ml of any Still Water added. If using Preservative K, add 1g of Lactic Acid at the end of your Recipe. 16.

(19) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Compresses, Poultices and Plasters... Compresses, Poultices and Plasters are an excellent way to apply a treatment externally to a specific part of the body. This reduces the necessity for internal medication. Compresses There are three main types of Compresses: Hot; Cold (varying from room temperature to ice cold); and Heating Compresses. There are also many different ways of applying Compresses, such as using botanical material itself e.g. Plantain leaf; dipping a cotton cloth in an Infusion, Decoction, Tincture (5% diluted in water) and then applying it to the affected area; using Clay; herbal tea bags; dried herbs, etc. Essential Oils are also often mixed with these substances to be used in a Compress. Cold Compresses Cold Compresses (room temperature) are used on wounds, eczema, psoriasis and similar problems where the skin is broken (not inflamed). Cold Compresses (ice cold) can help relieve the pain of gout and minimise swelling from bruises and sprains. Ice cold Compresses can also be used to prevent or relieve congestion and to reduce blood flow to an area. Experts suggest limiting ice cold applications to 20 minutes at a time to prevent damage to the skin. How to prepare a Cold Compress Follow the methods for Wet or Dry Compresses below. For Sprains and Bruises you can wrap a pack of frozen peas with cotton cloth and apply to affected area. You can also add ice cubes to your Infusion, etc. to make it colder. Hot Compresses Hot Compresses are used when the skin is not broken, for example with rheumatism, sprains, inflammations, accidents, pains and swellings (but not to treat shingles). Hot Compresses can also be used to lessen the discomfort of menstrual cramps and irritable bowel syndrome, and to increase blood flow to a particular part of the body. Large Hot Compresses applied to the chest are also helpful for respiratory problems. Smaller Hot Compresses are used for localised pain relief from muscle spasms and certain types of arthritis. , Remember: never use Hot Compresses on broken skin. How to prepare a Hot Compress Follow the ‘Method for Wet Compresses’ below. Heating Compresses Combining the basic Cold Compress Method with adding extra insulating layers over it, you can make a Heating Compress. The body will gradually warm the Compress and the transition from cold to warm adds to the therapeutic value. They are left in place until the body's heat warms them, usually for several hours or overnight. Used for sore throats, ear infections, chest colds, joint pain and digestive problems, the Heating Compress creates soothing warmth in the affected area and attracts an influx of nutrient- and oxygen-rich blood to speed healing. - 17 -.

(20) How to prepare a Heating Compress A Heating Compress can be a Dry or Wet Compress. For a Dry Heating Compress see ‘Method for Dry Compresses’ below. For a Wet Heating Compress see ‘Method for Wet Compresses’ below. How to Make a Compress You will need: A cotton/muslin cloth 30x50 cm for suitable Compress for chest, throat, knee, elbow Compress or tube bandage for smaller Compresses Clingfilm (never use tape or clingfilm directly on the skin) Surgical tape or freezer tape Elastic Bandage Woollen cloth (for Heating Compress) Method for Dry Compresses. 1. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.. 2. 3. 4. Spread a cotton or muslin cloth approximately 30x50cm on a clean and smooth surface. Evenly place 35-50g of the dried herb in the middle of the cotton cloth (see Fig 1). Then cover with clingfilm. Fold each side of the cloth over the content (Fig 2). Lastly tape everything so the content is secure (Fig 3). Place the Compress on the area to be treated with the cloth side towards the skin (Fig 4). The clingfilm is facing out, so the healing content is close to the skin. Wrap around with an elastic bandage and secure with tape. You can also add a last layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf to create a Dry Heating Compress.. Method for Wet Compresses 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.. Make a strong Infusion, Decoction or use a Tincture (mostly diluted but not always, depending on the use and the herb) of your selected herb/s. Soak a clean cotton or muslin cloth in either a hot or cold (depending on the use) Infusion, Decoction, Tincture, Hydrolate, Water, etc. and then squeeze out the cloth so that the desired amount of liquid remains in the cloth. Apply gently and loosely to the affected area of the body. Now, you can either go directly to step 5 below or continue by soaking the cloth in the herbal solution every 15-30 minutes and applying it to the body. Repeat as often as necessary. Wrap the soaked cloth over the affected area and cover the cloth and area with clingfilm. Then secure both the cloth and the clingfilm with a stretch bandage. Discard the solution. To make a Heating Compress of a Cold Wet Compress or to keep your Hot Compress warm, add a layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf between the clingfilm layer and the stretch bandage. You can also keep a Hot Compress Warm by placing a hot water bottle on the bandaged area. 18.

(21) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Kolbjorn’s Tips for Compresses x x. x. x. x. When onion is used in a Compress, it is important that it doesn’t come in direct contact with the skin; put it in a cotton cloth. Never use raw garlic in a Compress. If you want to use garlic, then crush the garlic and mix into a vegetable oil, leaving it for 3-4 days and shaking twice a day on those days. Strain twice, making sure no bits of garlic are left in the oil. Soak a cotton cloth in the oil and use according to the instruction for Wet Compresses. Never use Hot Compresses on wounds, as the ingredients will be absorbed into the body. As a rule Compresses should be left on the person overnight, but not for more than 8-10 hours at a time. However, if the area of the body starts to itch under the Compress, remove it immediately. This will apply more specifically to children or when the Compress contains onions or arnica or when it is being used on burns. Compresses on a wounded surface can first appear much worse. This is because the Compress draws out pus and impurities through the wound. Change the Compress often, wash and clean the area with a strong Chamomile Infusion. You will soon see a big improvement and the wound will heal. Don’t use the same type of herb in your Compress two nights in a row, alternate with different types herbs in your Compresses. An exception is the Dry Chamomile Compress, which you can use every night for up to a week. You can make a Chamomile Heating Compress (see ‘Method for Dry Compresses’ opposite) using dried Chamomile flowers and place a hot water bottle on top of the woollen material if you wish.. Poultices... A Poultice is a wad of chopped, fresh plant material that is applied directly to a wound or infection on the skin and usually held in place by a Wet Compress that is covered by a bandage. Poultices & Plasters Poultices and Plasters are used much like Compresses except they are made with fresh (or dried, but re-moistened), solid herbal or plant material rather than an Infusion or Decoction. Poultices are generally a wad of bruised or chopped plant material applied topically to an area of the body, such as a wound or infection. Poultices work primarily at the application site, typically preventing infection and hastening the healing of wounds. But there are doubtless many compounds in Poultice plants that pass through the skin and have internal benefits as well. They become Plasters when using finely ground herbs or adding ingredients such as cornmeal or wheat flour to assist their cohesiveness. Generally Plasters are placed in layers of thin material to protect the skin as well. Plasters tend to be stronger in nature and should be monitored to avoid any skin reactions to strong herbs such as garlic or mustard. It is advisable to massage oil over the skin prior to placement of the Plaster. Both Plasters and Poultices are wonderful for their action of ‘drawing out’ toxins. You can bandage and cover a Poultice in the same way as you might with a Compress (described in section on Compresses on page 18). , When using Baths, Compresses and Poultices to treat skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis, it is very important to start with calming or soothing herbs e.g. Chamomile Baths and Compresses for a week. Then you can continue the treatment with herbs which have properties of drawing out infections, e.g. Wild Pansy.. - 19 -.

(22) Gels... Recipes for Gels are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other Aromantic Guides. Always remember that if you add any alcohol-based herbal preparations, such as Tinctures, to your Gel, you should compensate for the drying effect of the alcohol by adding 34% Vegetable Oil to your Recipe.. Creams... You can replace the water content in your Cream Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion or replace some of the water with up to 10% of the Tincture. We have included the basic Recipe for Herbal Cream, as well as the Method for making all Creams below. This Cream is especially suitable for Dry or Mature skin, but can be used for all skin types except oily skin. Refer to Aromantic’s Education Pack 1 for further Cream, and Lotion Recipes, as well as for troubleshooting tips. Note: Adding herbal infusions or Decoctions to your Creams, Lotions and Gels will discolour these products. Carotene is used in the Recipe below to colour the Cream in order to mask the less attractive colouring caused by the herbs. Herbal Cream Recipe (Makes 100gr/ml of Cream. Multiply if you want to make larger quantities e.g. x10 for 1 litre of Cream.) Fat Stage 2g Cocoa Butter 3ml Olive Oil 7ml Almond Oil 3ml Thistle Oil 2g Cetyl Alcohol 2.5g VE Emulsifier Water Stage 4.5g MF Emulsifier 70ml Boiling Infusion and/or Decoction of herbs of your choice 2ml Glycerine (Moisturiser) 20 drops Preservative 2 drops Carotene Third Stage 0.5ml Vitamin E 2ml/g NFF Moisturiser [10ml Herbal Tincture of your choice - optional] , If using the Herbal Tincture mentioned in the Third Stage above, then reduce the Boiling Infusion/Decoction in the Water Stage to 60ml. Because of tinctures’ dissolving properties, you must also add an extra 0.5g VE Emulsifier as well as 0.5g MF Emulsifier to your recipe. Fourth Stage 20 drops Essential Oil (0.5g/10-12 drops Lactic Acid – if using Preservative K as your Preservative) , If you wish to make the Dry Skin Care Cream fluffier, add 20-30 ml Aloe Vera Gel to this amount of Cream and reduce the Boiling Spring Water accordingly. (See Aromantic’s Recipe Brochure: How to make Gels.) 20.

(23) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Basic Method for making all Creams 1.. Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double boiler until all of the ingredients have melted and the temperature has risen to 75-80°C. There is no need to use a whisk at this stage.. 2.. Water Stage: After carefully straining the Infusion or Decoction, measure it according to the Recipe and pour it over the MF Emulsifier, the Glycerine, and the Preservative, which you have put into a separate double boiler.. 3.. Whisk the Water Stage ingredients well together, making sure that the MF Emulsifier powder is fully dissolved in the water and that you don’t have any lumps. Then allow the mixture to heat to 75-80°C.. 4.. When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75°C (check with a thermometer), remove both double boilers from the hob, keeping the Water Stage mixture hot by leaving it on the top half of the double boiler.. 5.. Now pour the melted Fat Stage into the Water Stage in a thin, steady stream, while continuously whisking the mixture from side to side for 5 minutes. If necessary, use a spatula to scrape the mixture from the sides of the saucepan (or bowl).. 6.. Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time. You can speed up by the cooling process by replacing the hot water in the double boiler with very COLD water. In the process of cooling down, the mixture becomes a Cream and will reach its thickest consistency when it is has cooled down to room temperature.. 7.. Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when the mixture has cooled to under 40C.. 8.. Fourth Stage: Continue stirring until the mixture has cooled to under 25°C, then thoroughly mix in the Essential Oils.. 9.. Pour the Cream into one big jar or smaller jars and label.. - 21 -. Heating the Fat and Water Stages. Mixing the Fat and Water Stages. Pouring the Cream into a jar.

(24) Ointments... Ointments are used to protect the skin. They are for use on dry, cracked skin and for minor injuries to the skin. To make Ointments you will need a stainless steel saucepan, a bowl, a whisk, a spatula, and a thermometer (optional, up to 110°C) as well as the ingredients. A simple Base Ointment can be made from Vegetable Oils and Beeswax. The Vegetable Oils nourish the skin while at the same time softening and protecting it. The Beeswax protects the skin while giving the Ointment its consistency. The more Beeswax you add, the harder the Ointment will be and the more Vegetable Oil you add, the softer it will be. Base Ointment Recipe (Makes 100g/ml.) 15g Beeswax 85ml Vegetable Oil of your choice (e.g. Sweet Almond Oil*) *. There are many Vegetable Oils to choose from, everything from a simple Olive or Sunflower Oil to a more luxurious Avocado, Apricot Kernel or Peach Kernel Oil.. Method for making Base Ointments 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.. Melt the Beeswax and Vegetable Oil together in a double boiler. When the Beeswax is completely melted, remove the bowl or saucepan the ingredients are in from the double boiler. Whisk the Ointment until it has cooled to approximately 40-45°C. Whisk, or stir in, appropriate active raw materials such as Tinctures (up to 15%); Botanical CO2 Extracts; Vitamins (A &E); and Essential Oils. Remember to reduce the amount of Vegetable Oil in your Recipe accordingly. Pour into jars.. Shampoos, Conditioners,Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect Repellents... Recipes for these products are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other Aromantic literature. Simply replace the water in the recipes found in those Guides with Herbal Infusions, Decoctions, or Tinctures, whichever is specified in the entries for each herb listed in this Guide.. 22.

(25) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Aloe. Aloe barbadensis (Although not strictly a herb, we have included Aloe Vera because of its many useful properties for Skin, Hair, Body and Pet Care.). Aloe was also mentioned in ancient Chinese transcripts. It was used for eczema in China under the name ‘lu hui’ and in India under the name ‘musabbar’.. Synonyms: Barbados Aloe, Coastal Aloe, Curaçao Aloe, Indian Aloe, Jaffarabad Aloe, Medicinal Aloe, Mediterranean Aloe, Star Cactus, True Aloe (Aloe Vera), West Indian Aloe.. Aloe was also mentioned in the writings of the well-known Latin writer, Aurelius Celsus, in the year 1378. In America, Aloe was mentioned in Columbus' journals. The earliest record of using Aloe's bitter material as a drug in America was 1697. Central and South American Indians used it to treat burns, kidney and bladder infections, dysentery, stomach and intestinal disorders.. Parts used: Gel from the leaves (can be grown as a pot plant). Traditional use & history, description and properties: Also known as Aloe Vera, the clear Gel of this plant has been used medicinally since the time of the ancient Egyptians. The bitter yellow aloe latex obtained from the base of the leaves has also been used as a traditional remedy for constipation and used on warts. Ancient records of the Egyptians, Arab, African, Asians and Americans have discussed the different uses and pathological cases in which Aloes were administered. The Arabs had taken Aloe Vera plants to India and the Indian people called it ‘savari’, a name from which the name ‘savila’’ (Spanish for Aloe Vera) might have been derived. The Indians, who use it as one of the Ayurvedic medicinal herbs, named Aloe ‘ailwa’, from which the Greek word ‘alon’ might have been derived.. Description & properties: Aloe plants belong to the liliaceae family which contains over 200 ‘genera’. Aloe, with its different species composes 1/10th the size of the lily family. Aloe can be separated into two basic products: a gel, which is pressed out from the core of the leaves; and a latex, which is a sticky, bitter yellow exudate from just below the outer skin of the leaves often called Aloe juice. A powerful laxative called aloin is found in the juice of the Aloe leaf, but only found in small quantities in the Gel. A note of clarification: when I refer to Aloe Vera Gel, I am referring to a Skin Gel made with Aloe Vera Concentrate (from the substance called Gel, which is pressed from the Aloe leaves and 90% of its water content removed) added to a Thickening Agent; Water; and other ingredients to reconstitute it. The enzymes contained in the Gel are affected by heating above 70ºC. The fresh leaves and liquid Gels or Extracts are more effective than the powdered, dehydrated Aloe, which is heated. Aloe Gel can be bought in health food shops and the quality will depend on where it is made. Often Guar Gum, Xanthan Gum or extra glucomannan is added to create the correct consistency.. Aloe barbadensis - 23 -.

(26) Internal use: Aloe Vera has many uses internally, such as for treating: constipation; indigestion; diarrhoea and other intestinal problems; low energy; cancer; ulcers; hangovers; diabetes; diverticulosis; diverticulitis and peptic ulcers; sore and bleeding gums; fungal growth such as Candida albicans; asthma; heartburn; haemorrhoids; ulcers; and to speed up and improve general healing, to name but a few.. Main constituents: 96% water, lignin, saponins, anthraquines, carbohydrate glucomannans (of particular importance is acemannan), tannins, steroids, enzymes, growth hormones, aloin, glucommannans, salicylic acid, and fatty acids. Aloe Vera also contains twenty amino acids (including all eight essential amino acids), at least nine minerals i.e. calcium, sodium, iron, potassium, zinc, chromium, magnesium, manganese and copper, and a number of vitamins, including B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, A, C, E, folic acid, and choline.. Pet Care: Cuts and scrapes: Freshly cut Aloe or Aloe Vera Gel is an excellent application for cuts and scrapes. It is a natural antiseptic, and will keep the area moist until the cut can heal. Skin problems: Aloe Vera is an excellent preparation to use for skin conditions such as allergies, abscesses, fungal infections, pyoderma, and many types of dermatitis. Wounds and Burns: These respond particularly well to Aloe Vera. Aloe Vera can aid the natural healing processes and help to keep the wound or burn moist and supplied with nutrients. Internal use: The Aloe Vera Gel can be used for stomach problems and digestive upsets.. External use for Skin, Hair and Body products: A lot of research has been done on Aloe Vera and clearly shows that the Gel: has anti-inflammatory properties; reduces scarring in burns; skin ulcers and other lesions; relieves pain from sunburn and burns and helps these to heal quickly by stimulating fibroblast and connective tissue formation, and by stimulating the epidermal growth and repair process; has rejuvenating effects; and has also been shown to have an invigorating effect on skin when applied on a regular basis. It is an excellent emollient, making it soothing and calming to the skin, is antiseptic and antibacterial, acting against a number of different bacteria and fungi (staphylococci, streptococci, salmonella and Candida albicans).. Usage and preparation of Aloe Vera in your products: For healing purposes, add up to 10% Aloe Concentrate to Creams, Lotions, Gels, Preand After-Sun Protection products, Shampoos, Conditioners, Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles, Vaginal Douches, Skin Toners, and Baby products.. Aloe Vera is used in Skin Care products that help to treat: Sunburn; overexposure to radiation (it also helps to protect against solar radiation); burns; scars on the skin; irritation of the skin; nappy rash; acne spots; small sores; haemorrhoids (piles); herpes; shingles; insect bites; eczema; psoriasis; wounds; varicose ulcers; and other sores which are slow to heal; itchy scalp; and dandruff,.. For how to make your own Aloe Vera Gel from 1:9 Liquid Aloe Vera Concentrate, refer to Aromantic’s Education Pack 1.. Aloe Vera Gel can be used in the following Skin, Hair and Body Care products: Compresses; Poultices and Plasters – use the Gel, or the fresh botanical material; Lotions; Creams; Pre- and After-Sun Protection products; directly on the skin; Shampoos; Gels; Mouth Washes and Gargles; Toothpastes; Vaginal Douches; Toners and Facial Sprays; and Baby products. 24.

(27) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Arnica. Arnica montana Synonyms: Leopard’s bane. Parts used: Flowers and roots. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Arnica montana or Leopard's Bane is a perennial herb, indigenous to Central Europe, in woods and mountain pastures, and also native to Siberia and North West North America. It has also been found in England and southern Scotland, but it is probably not indigenous to Britain. In countries where Arnica is indigenous, it has long been a popular remedy for bruises, wounds, pain, swellings, rheumatic pain, the pain and inflammation of phlebitis and similar conditions. In North America the flowers are used in preference to the roots. Arnica has been used extensively in folk medicine. The German philosopher and poet Goethe (17491832), claimed that Arnica helped to ease his angina in old age. Whilst the internal use of Arnica is restricted to homoeopathic use as it is potentially toxic, the herb provides us with one of the best remedies for external local healing and is mainly used in a Compress for bruises, swellings, inflammations and other tissue damage caused by sprains, bumps, bangs and. crushing. Also good for pulled muscles and torn ligaments, for gout, lumbago and rheumatic ailments. Arnica montana contains 10 different constituents (including the immuno-stimulant Helenalin, its most active sesquiterpene lactone), which have anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving effects. The plant’s Essential Oils (which are antiseptic and anti-inflammatory) and carotene promote healing. The Essential Oil stimulates the mopping up and reabsorption of blood from the bruised tissue and hastens the replacement of damaged tissue with new cells. Main constituents: Essential Oils and volatile oils, containing thymol and various ethers of thymol, which are mostly found in the roots and root stock; sesquiterpene lactones; mucilage and polysaccharides; and other substances such as resins, bitters (arnicin), tannins and carotenes. For external use: Arnica is used almost exclusively in Tincture form and then mainly in a Compress, Cream or Ointment. Arnica Tincture must always be diluted in some way, as prolonged contact with the skin can cause severe redness and tissue damage and must not be used on broken skin or open wounds. Arnica Tincture should be diluted with up to 9 parts water (use approximately 10%) and the Compress dipped into this and then applied wet to the affected area. This should be held in place with a cloth bandage. Do not use any plastics as it is important that the area should not be made airtight. The bandage should be changed regularly, as soon as it dries. For more comprehensive instructions, follow the Method for Wet Compresses on page 18.. Arnica montana - 25 -.

(28) For acutely inflamed haemorrhoids, use Cold Arnica Compresses and replace these hourly. You can also add the Tincture or Infusion to Creams and Lotions or the Tincture to Ointments. Arnica Cream or Lotion is a favourite of athletes and others participating in active sports.. Arnica Recipes Arnica Compress Use on sprains, bruises, swollen skin, pains, and herpes blisters. Using Arnica on burns increases the bleeding-through and reduces scar formation.. Homoeopathic Arnica can be taken internally to promote healing from bruising, sprains, inflammations, internal injuries and also for shock and trauma.. , The skin should not be in contact with Arnica for more than 6 hours a day as any longer contact can create skin irritation. Never take Arnica internally, except in homoeopathic doses.. Pet Care: Use Arnica externally for bruises, wounds, contusions, etc in the same way as for humans – in Compresses, Ointments, Creams, etc.. You will need: 50ml warm water at blood temperature, 37°C 1 teaspoon Arnica Tincture. , Remember not to apply Arnica products to an open wound or broken skin.. Method. Homoeopathic Arnica can be given to animals internally to promote healing from bruising, inflammations, sprains, internal injuries and also for shock and trauma.. Follow the Method for Wet Compresses described on pg 18 and also follow the instructions in step 8 for keeping Hot Compresses warm.. Usage and preparation of Arnica in your products:. Arnica Healing Ointment. The Tincture can be made with fresh or dried Arnica flowers and alcohol. Use 10g of the dried flowers, or 50g of the fresh flowers, to 150ml alcohol.. Stage 1 Stage 2. To make an Infusion use 15-20g of the dried flowers, or150-200g of the fresh flowers, to 1 litre of water and allow to infuse for 30 minutes. Use up to 10% pure Arnica Tincture mixed into a Base Ointment, or add to Creams or Lotions.. 15g Beeswax 34ml Olive Oil 20ml Avocado Oil 10ml Thistle Oil 5ml Borage Oil. Stage 3. 10ml Arnica Tincture 5ml/g Vitamin E Oil. Stage 4. 15-20 drops healing Essential Oils of your choice. Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 26. Melt Stage 1 ingredients first in a double boiler. When melted, add Stage 2 ingredients and stir well. Then stir in Stage 3 ingredients. Finally add the Essential Oils and stir in thoroughly. Place in jars and allow to settle..

(29) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Birch. Betula alba Synonyms: Lady of the Woods (AngloSaxon), Common Birch, Silver Birch.. for it's white colour. Found in all parts of Europe and Northern Asia, all parts of the Birch tree have also long been used in folk medicine, for ritual healing and purification, magical protective and creative talismans.. Parts used: The leaves, but also the bark and tar. The leaves are picked in early spring, the bark either early in the spring or in the autumn. Traditional use & history, description and properties: The name is a very ancient one, probably derived from the Sanskrit ‘bhurga’, 'a tree whose bark is used for writing upon'. Traditionally, Birch has been used for many ailments ranging from headache to fever, cramps, gout, wounds and skin ailments. Today researchers are focusing on the possible anti-cancer and HIV properties of betulinic acid a pentacyclic triterpene which is synthesized or derived from betulin found in the shredding bark of the tree and accounts. The production of Birch tar oil is a Russian industry of considerable importance and apart from being used for skin complaints, it is also used in the preserving of leather and in photography. Birch wine has been made for a long time in parts of Europe. The tree has been used for many more purposes, such in boat-building, roofing, the manufacture of bobbins for thread mills, herring-barrel staves, broom handles, various fancy articles, thatching, wattles, broom making and in the manufacture of cloth, as well as asphyxiating gases and gunpowder. Native Americans of northern New England regions in North America are well known for making Birch-bark canoes but there are also records of these canoes being made in Europe. In Britain, the Birch tree was used for making the May pole used in folk festivities as it was very much associated with fertility and sexuality until the 19th century, when people considered themselves to be married if they jumped across a Birch broom. In Sweden, Birch poles are still used to make May poles. The bark has also long been used as a source of tannin for tanning leather. In Estonia, the leaves are still considered one of the three most important ‘whisking’ herbs to use for sauna treatments. With regard to Natural Skin Care and Beauty, Birch leaves disinfect wounds and are considered to alleviate most skin complaints, including cellulite.. Betula alba. Main constituents: Approximately 3% saponins (concentration is highest in the spring), 0.05-1% Essential Oil, 5-9% tannins. Betulin (also known as Birch Camphor), a component richest in the Birch bark, is being studied for its hepatoprotective (liver - 27 -.

(30) protecting), anti-ulcer, and anti-inflammatory activities. In high concentration, it may inhibit viruses and cancer cell reproduction. The leaves contain flavonoids that may be responsible for the anti-inflammatory activity; one of the components is hyperoside, which is also found in St. John's Wort. Birch is also high in vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2 and in the minerals calcium, chloride, copper, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, silicon and fluoride.. natural aspirin, those who are allergic to aspirin should not use Birch-based herbs. Skin and Body Care: The leaves are used externally as an astringent and antiseptic (the bark is even more effective) for inflammations of the skin and for strengthening the skin tissue. Birch tar, which is extracted through the dry distillation of the bark and wood and is a brown-black, with a thick, runny, sticky, syrupy consistency, is used in an Ointment base to treat scabies, skin parasites, eczema, psoriasis and chronic diseases of the skin. Because of the high tannin contents, Birch leaves have an astringent effect on weeping eczemas and other skin problems. In addition, Birch leaves contain betulin, which curb or kill viruses, such as the papillomavirus, which causes warts. ,Birch Essential Oil is recommended for use by professional aromatherapists only.. Internal use: Birch leaves have a strong, diuretic effect, which is mainly caused by the saponins found in the leaves. The diuretic effect with normal dosages has been questioned but when adding a little Sodium Bicarbonate to the Birch tea will increase its diuretic effects. This is because the active betulorentic acid in the leaves is easily dissolved by the Sodium Bicarbonate. In a similar way, Birch leaves taken as a hot Infusion have both diuretic and sudorific (sweat-producing) effects as the hot water increases the effects. Boil for 15 minutes if you want to release the saponins. Birch leaf is usually taken as a tea or in capsule form for Arthritis; blood purifying; boils; gout; bladder problems; kidney stones; oedema; worms. , Since its chemical make up is very similar to. Use a strong Birch leaf Decoction for Compresses for warts and eczema. Soak a cotton cloth in the Decoction and apply as a Compress to eczema and warts. Hair Care: Birch leaf is considered to strengthen skin tissue, tone the scalp and prevent hair loss and make hair soft and shiny. To use, make a strong Decoction and add it to your Shampoo Recipe. A Birch leaf Decoction is an excellent addition to your Nettle Shampoo recipe as the saponins in the Birch opens up the pores to allow the minerals in the Nettle to penetrate the scalp. Oral Care: It can also be used as a Tooth Powder to brush teeth. Preparation and usage of Birch in your products: For Compresses, make a strong Decoction by boiling 15-20g dried Birch leaves per 1 litre of water for 15 minutes to release the saponins before use. For Shampoos, add a Birch leaf Decoction to your Recipe. Add 10-20% of the total volume of your Shampoo e.g. if using 20%, then you would use 20ml of the Decoction in 100ml of Shampoo. 28.

(31) The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs. Chamomile Matricaria recutita. To make the Birch leaf Decoction, use 15-20g of dried Birch leaves per 1 litre of water or 150-200g of fresh Birch leaves per 2-3 litres of water. For Whole Body Baths, use either 50-100g of dried Birch Leaves or 500-1000g fresh Birch leaves or use a strong Decoction. Use a 15% concentration of Birch tar in an Ointment base only to treat scabies and skin parasites and a maximum of 8% concentration for eczema, psoriasis and chronic diseases of the skin. Grind the dried leaves in a coffee grinder and use as a rough Powder by dipping your toothbrush in it and brushing the teeth.. Birch Hair Rinse Recipe (Makes approximately 1 litre.) You will need: For the Decoction 25g dried Birch leaves 1200ml Still Water Other Hair Rinse Ingredients 1-1.2gr Preservative 20ml D-Panthenol 20ml Bio-energiser 5g Lactic Acid (if you are using Preservative K as your Preservative) , If you are using this Hair Rinse within a week of making it, you don’t need to use a Preservative. Method: 1. 2.. Make 1 litre of a strong Birch Decoction and strain. Mix the rest of the ingredients into the Decoction and use as a Hair Rinse.. Synonyms: Chamomilla recutita, German Chamomile, Blue Chamomile, Sweet Chamomile, Sweet Feverfew, Whig-plant, Manzanilla and too many more to mention here. Note: Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is a close relation, used in a similar way. Parts used: Flowers. Traditional use & history, description and properties: This herb is one of the best known of the garden herbs and is widely cultivated in Europe. In the middle ages, Chamomile used to be regarded as the 'Plant's Physician,' and it has been stated that nothing contributes as much to the health of a garden as a number of Chamomile herbs distributed around it, and that if another plant is drooping and sickly, in nine cases out of ten, it will recover if you place a herb of Chamomile near it. Its value as a medicinal herb has been recognised for many hundreds of years and its use has even been recorded in ancient Egyptian manuscripts. It is said that the Egyptians dedicated Chamomile to their sun god and valued it over all other herbs for its healing qualities. Due to its sedative and relaxing properties Chamomile was an ingredient in some love potions in the middle ages. The fresh plant is strongly and agreeably aromatic, with a distinct scent of apples - a characteristic noted by the Greeks, on account of which they named it 'ground-apple'; - ‘kamai’ (on the ground) and melon (an apple) - the origin of the name Chamomile. The Spaniards call it 'manzanilla,' which signifies 'a little apple', and give the same name to one of their lightest sherries, flavoured with this plant. Anglo-Saxons believed it was one of the nine sacred herbs given to humans by the god Woden.. - 29 -.

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