architechtural brief

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PLANT LAYOUT

ARCHITECHTURAL

BRIEF FOR

FASHION SHIRT

MANUFATURING

PLANT

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PART 1

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Introduction

About The Project

•

It is proposed to setup an apparel manufacturing facility for

manufacture of fashion shirts.

• The proposed facility is to be setup within an area of 15,000sft.

•

The facility shall perform composite functions of fabricating the

product right from the raw material to its finished state.

• The facility shall cater and be oriented towards domestic as well as

export oriented markets.

•

The processes in the manufacturing would be in house with the

exception of the processing of raw material like fabrics which shall

be procured in processed forms.

• The nature of the product is not staple thus variations are possible

in machine requirement as well as the production work flow.

•

Type of manufacturing system is proposed to be a combination of

product for assembly line and process type for small parts

construction.

•

The required production rate of finished product is to be 3000

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Product Analysis

Product Overview

Fig: fashion shirt

Name of the Product Fashion shirt

Category(Men’s/Women’s/Children) Men’s, Women’s and Childrens

Type of Product(Casual/Formal) Casual

Staple/fashion Product Fashion

Major rawmaterials Fabric (woven),trims like button, fusible

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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

• The casual or fashion shirt is an apparel for casual/daily wear purpose.

• It must have desirable fashion features such as darts, panels, embroidery, etc for providing an attractive look to the wearer.

• A standard fashion shirt has around 11 components.

• Variations among these components are done to develop various designs.

• The major raw materials consumed in the manufacturing are fabrics.

• Variety of woven fabrics can be used as raw material for the product.

• The construction of the product can vary from easy to complex depending on the style variation.

• Small parts like collar and cuffs are separately prepared before being assemble into the main garment.

• The collar and cuff require fusing machines for attaching the fusible interlinings to the respective parts.

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PARTS LIST

A standard fashion shirt consists of the following parts:

Part number Part name Quantity per final assembly

Make/buy

1. Front 2 Make

2. Back. 1 Make

3 Yoke (Back). 2 Make

4 Sleeve. 2 Make

5. Collar. 1 Make

6 Collar band. 1 Make

7 Cuff. 2 Make

8. Sleeve placket. 2 Make

9 Pockets. 1 or 2 Make

10 Front placket

(Button/Button hole).

1 Make

11 Buttons 7-8 Buy

Other auxiliary parts are:

12 . Labels o Brand o Size o Fit o Wash care 1+1+1+1 Buy

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Sewing Operation Breakdown

The following operations are for sewing a men’s casual (fashion) shirt. These are general operation irrespective of any variation.

Operation Number Operation name MACHINE REQUIRED

A01 Serge front 5Th O/L

A02 Fuse fusible interlining on Fusing m/c A03 Serge front placket 5Th O/L A04 Sew front buttonhole placket to front. SNLS A05 Sew button placket SNLS

A06 Top stitch button hole placket SNCS/SNLS

A07 Serge back 5 TH O/L

B01 Sew shoulder SNLS

B02 Attach pocket SNLS

B02 Sew under sleeve placket to sleeve SNLS

B03 Fold upper sleeve placket IRONINGTABLE B04 Sew upper sleeve placket SNLS

B05 Sew tack to sleeve mouth SNLS

B06 Sew sleeve SNLS

B07 Counter stitch sleeve SNLS/DNLS B08 Sew side and under sleeve Feed of the arm B09 Fold bottom and slit Manual

B10 Sew top of slit SNLS

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B16 Run stitch collar SNLS

B17 Cut collar point ,turn & fold collar Collar turning m/c

B18 Sew collar bottom SNLS

B19 Sew collar SNLS

B20 Counter stitch collar SNLS/DNLS B21 Fuse Fusible interlining on cuff Fusing m/c B22 Sew edge of cuff SNLS

B23 Turn and form cuff Cuff turning m/c

B24 Topstitch cuff SNLS

B25 Sew cuff SNLS

B26 Turn body and mark button position Manual B27 Sew button to point Button attach

m/c

B28 Sew button hole to cuff Button Holing m/c

B29 Sew button to front and cuff

Button stitch machine

C01 Trim thread Thread trimming machine

C02 Inspect Manual

C03 Press body Vacuum Press

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PRODUCT/PART VARIATIONS

Part name Possible Variations

Front and back body

1. Kimono sleeve 2. Pleated shirt

3. Shirt with yokes(front and back) 4. Multi-Panel shirt

5. Gather shirt

Collar

1. Sailor collar 2. Shirt collar 3. Peter Pan collar 4. Stand collar 5. Roll collar 6. Madrin collar 7. Turtle neck Sleeve 1. Cap sleeve 2. Dart less sleeve 3. Petal sleeves

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2. Self-faced cuff 3. French cuff 4. Contoured cuff 5. Roll-up- cuff Decorative trims/parts 1. Epaulets 2. Zippers 3. Buttons(metallic /plastic) 4. Patch work 5. Paupers or rivets 6. Hood

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Part 2 Production process and Related

Activities

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PROCESS INVOLVED / OPERATING ACTIVITIES

Standard Production Operations/activities

Order Conformation Proto type sample

development

Sample approval

Size set samples Size sample

approval Pp sample

development

Pp sample approval Production Planning and raw material procurement (SCM)

Receive raw material and inspection

Stores Cutting

Marker from CAD SEWING

Pressing and Finishing Quality checking and audit

Packaging

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Processes involving specialized operations

Specialized operation required for meeting the requirements of the product variations are as follows:

• Embroidery

• Printing

• Washing

Embroidery:-Embroidery can be done on any part/component. It is usually done

before sewing/assembly operations. The parts requiring the embroidery are transported from the cutting to the embroidery section. After embroidery the parts are transported back to cutting and re bundled with original pieces.

Printing: Printing also can be done on any individual part or component before the

sewing/assembly operations. The parts requiring the embroidery are transported from the cutting to the embroidery section. After embroidery the parts are transported back to cutting and re bundled with original pieces and sent for sewing.

Washing: To provide a variety of effects the garments may be given washes or for

providing shrinkage. These operations are usually done after the production operations are completed and just before the packaging. The garments which are produced out from the sewing lines are sent directly for washing from where after washing they are sent to the finishing department for finishing and packaging.

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Process flow with specialized operations

Order Conformation Proto type sample

development

Sample approval

Size set samples Size sample approval

Pp sample development

Pp sample approval Production Planning and

raw material procurement (SCM)

Receive raw material and inspection

Stores Cutting

Marker from CAD

Sewing

Pressing and Finishing

Quality checking and audit

Packaging

Dispatch

PRINTING EMBROIDERY

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OPERATION BREAK DOWN FOR MAJOR DEPARTMENTS

FABRIC STORE

Invoice received from the merchandiser

Identification of supplier

Negotiation with supplier

Issue of purchase order

Follow up with the supplier

Receiving of fabric

Storage of fabric

Fabric check

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CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Fabric received from the fabric stores

Spreading

Marker Making

Lay Checking

Cutting

Re- cutting (for embroidery and sometimes checks)

Ticketing Component checking

Fusing (when required)

Bundling

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Button Holing/stitching Washing Thread cutting Pressing Checking Re- pressing Measurement check Thread sucking Folding Tagging Packing Dispatch

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Computer Aided Design (CAD)

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SAMPLING

Receive the tech peck from the merchandiser

Develop the patterns

Developing the fit sample and sending for approval

Developing the size set

Developing the PP samples

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PART 3 PRODUCTION SYSTEM:

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Production System: Progressive Bundle System

The production system proposed for the facility is “Progressive Bundle System” with the material flow being “zigzag” motion.

PBS system is exactly what its name implies, a system whereby the garments are gradually assembled as they move through successive sub-assembly and main assembly operations in bundle form. The principles of this system are:

• The various sections are positioned according to the main operation sequence, with each section having a layout according to the sequence of operations required to produce a particular component.

• A work store is positioned at the start and the end of every section of these buffers is used to store work received from a preceding operation and to hold work complete by that section.

• Due to these work stores or buffers, each section is not directly dependent on the preceding section, but can absorb slight variation in output via the stocks held within the section.

The reasons for using PBS system are highlighted below:

• Labors of all levels, that is skilled, unskilled, semi-skilled labors are involved in this system where the operations are broken into small simple operation. Hence the cost of labor is cheap.

• The quantity and quality of each component is checked during the individual operation itself, so the quality is good.

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• Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving problems becomes easy.

The material flow is zigzag movement of material. In case of the zig zag movement the straight line is divided into two lines such that if the first operation is on the right side of the centre table, the subsequent operation is done on the opposite side of the table. The completed parts are placed on the table and the next operator picks up the same.

• The system is very useful in terms of ergonomics as it requires minimum operator’s motion.

• The workflow is also improved and the chances of the bundles breaking in the middle of the line are minimized.

The pattern is well explained by the following illustration. For example if there are 6 operation in manufacturing a part. Let ,the operations be Op1, Op2, Op3, Op4, Op5 and Op6, and the operators be 1,2 ,3 4, 5 and 6 respectively, the material flow would be O P 1 1 O P 3 3 O P 5 5 O P 6 6 O P 4 4 O P 2 2

Machines for operations Operators for the

operation Material Flow Centre table

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PART 4 MAN MACHINE AND MATERIAL

CALCULATIONS

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Man Machine and Material Calculations

• The calculations for the man, machine and material have to be done department wise depending.

• The type and quantity of equipment desired is to be determined by deriving information from the process breakdown compiled.

• The desired Production capacity is of 3000 garments per day.

• Thus it is necessary to plan the capacity of the various production related departments such that they have a capacity of 3000 garments at 100% efficiency.

• This is required in order to synchronize the material flow among departments and avoid excess WIP.

DEPARTMENT WISE CALCULATION

FABRIC STORE

Equipments Required

Storage pallets

• The main raw material fabric is to be stored on plastic pallets in the fabric store by piling up rolls or arranging bales.

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• Fabric required for one day (3150gmts)=3150*2=6300 mts

• Storage policy for fabric store= 7 days inventory. Therefore,

• The required fabric meter age to be stored= 7*6300= 44100 mts.

• Average meter age available per roll= 100 mts

• There for the number of rolls required for storage= 441 (approx)

• Capacity of each plastic pallet=300-400 kgs.

• Average weight of fabric rolls of 150mts = 30 kgs.

• Thus, per pallet quantity to be stocked= 10 rolls

• Thus , Quantity of pallets required= 44

• Area covered in sft= 567.072 sft (approx).

• Benefits of plastic pallets for storage:

• Cost effective

• Compatible with all existing lifting systems

• Easy to clean & wash

• Excellent resistance to most chemicals

• Maintenance-free

• Rot proof

• Extensive testing to ensures quality standards

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Fabric Checking Machine

• A fabric inspection machine would be required for the purpose of inspecting the received fabric in order to certify the quality of the fabric and help in making the batches of fabric as per shades.

• The fabric inspection machine that is to be procured is of Paramount (Model-CheckMate Basic™).

• Dimension of each inspection machine- 2100 mm X 1475 mm X 1800 mm. (L X B XH).

• The area covered by inspection machine=2.1*1.47= 3.087mt2 • Quantity of inspection machines=2

• Area covered in sft= 70 sft (approx).

Inspection tables

• Dimension of each inspection table- 12’x6’

• The area covered by inspection table=.72’

• Quantity of inspection machines=2

• Area covered in sft= 144 sft (approx).

Manpower (Personnel and labour)

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• Total manpower - 13 Material

• The raw material that is stored in the fabric store is only fabric for production.

• The material is available in rolls and bale form.

Accessory Store

Storage cabinet

• A storage cabinet is required for storing the required trims for production.

• A storage cabinet with multi level rack is apt for its compactness and less space consumption.

• Preferably storage cabinets would be procured from Kompact systems.

• The dimension of 11 rack storage cabinet = 70”x30”(5.8’x2.5’)

• Total Area covered= 14.5 sft

Inspection tables

• Quantity of inspection tables =4

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Man(Personnel and labour) • Quality Inspection- 4 • Quality assuarance-2 • Department in charge -1 • Office Clerks-3 • Helpers-5 • Total manpower - 15 Material

• The raw material that is stored in the accessory store is only the trims and accessory required for production.

• The material is available in small sizes and large quantities thus storage must be done in racks /cabinet.

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Thread Store

Storage cabinet

• A storage cabinet is required for storing the required threads and thread boxes for production.

• A storage cabinet with multi level rack is apt for its compactness and less space consumption.

• Preferably storage cabinets would be procured from Kompact systems.

• The dimension of 11 rack storage cabinet = 70”x30”(5.8’x2.5’)

• Total Area covered= 14.5 sft

Inspection tables

• Quantity of inspection tables=4

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Man power(Personnel and labour)

• Quality Inspection- 2

• Quality assuarance-1

• Colour matching assistant-2

• Department in charge -1

• Office Clerks-2

• Helpers-5

• Total manpower - 13 Material

• The raw material that is stored in the accessory store is only the trims and accessory required for production.

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Spreading and Cutting

Spreading and cutting tables

• Spreading and cutting will be done on the same table only

• The required capacity for 8 hrs shift is 3000 pieces.

• The average consumption for a shirt= 2mts.

• The length of the marker for a 4-way marker= 8mts.

• Preferable Number of plies per lay=100

• Number of garment required per hour= 3000*60/480= 375 gmts/hr. Now,by Time standards

• Time for spreading 1 lay manually= 1.1 mins

• Time for spreading 100 lays = 110 mins. Similarly

• Time for cutting 1 mts of lay= 0.041 mins.

• Time for cutting 800 mts(100 lays) of a lay= 800*0.041=32.8 mins There fore

• For spreading and cutting 400 garments time required= 32.8+110=142.8mins.

• For spreading and cutting 1 garment time required= 142.8/400=0.35mins Hence

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• The width of the table (assuming max width of 60”) =162.5 cm=1.6mts.

• Area of spreading tables= 12*1.6mts= 19.2*3mts2_{= 57.6mts}2_=618.62sft

• The tables are to be of ceramic surface for smooth operations.

Cutting Equipments

• Each table has single straight knife cutting machine.

• Straight Knife cutting machine can be stored under the table and don’t need separate storage.

• 2 band knife machines for recutting purpose.

• Area covered by band knife= 2.10mts*1.6mts= 3.36 *2mt2 _=6.72mt2 _=72.17sft • 2 continuous Fusing machine required for fusing the fusible interlining on collar,

cuffs and placket.

• Area covered by fusing machines = 3.26mts*1.58mts= 4.84*2= 9.68mt2

=103.96sft

Storage racks

• 2 End bit racks of dimension = 1.17mts*0.61 mts=0.7137 sq mts= 15.33 sft (2 racks).

• 1 rack for remnant fabric pieces=1.17mts *0.61 mts= 0.7137 sq mts=7.62sft

Quality checking Tables

• 1 table = 2.45*1mts.58mts=3.871 sq mts=41.57 sft.

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Man power (Personnel and labour)

• Master spreader - 3(1 per each table).

• Cutting master – 3 (1 per each table).

• Spreading helper-3(1 per each table).

• Cutting helper-3 (1 per each table).

• Department in charge -1.

• Office Clerks-3.

• Fusing machine operators-4.

• Recutting operator- 1.

• Total Manpower - 21 Material

• The raw material that is stored in the cutting room is only fabric for production.

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SEWING

Equipment Required

Sewing Machines

The following list provides the amount and type of machines required for production /sewing of a single garment based on the sewing operation breakdown (refer Product analysis).

The list is also representative of the machines required in setting a single sewing line

Sno

Type of machine

Quantity

1 SNLS

21

2 DNLS

4

3 SNCS

1

4 Feed of the Arm

1

5 Button attach

2

6 Button hole

2

7 5TH O/L

3

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Specialized machines

Machines required for catering to special purposes such as collar turning , cuff turning and ironing .

Sno

Type of machine

Quantity

1 Collar turning

1

2 Cuff turning

1

3 Ironing

2 Total specialized machines

4 Inspection tables

• 2 inspection tables of mid line and end line inspection of dimension ( ).

Manual operation Tables

• 2 tables for performing manual operation per sewing line.

Sewing lines

• Required production rate = 3000 garments /day

• Working hours per day= 8hrs (480 mins).

• Standard allowed Minute for Production of single garment= 20 mins.

• Minutes required for production of 3000 garments= 3000*20= 60,000 mins.

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• Total labour required for producing 3000 gmts in 480 mins using the efficiency formula= Minutes required/Minutes available

• Hence total sewing operators= 3000*20/480*0.6=208 operators.

• Since, 34 operators are required per sewing line, the number of sewing lines required for desired production level =208/34= 6 sewing lines (appox).

Sewing Work station

• In line with the production system proposed (PBS –zigzag motion), considering the machines are arranged in two rows separated by a centre table.

• For calculation purpose, a single unit of a sewing line consists of two machines on either side of the centre table inclusive of the centre table measurement and operator workspace allowance.

Illustration of a single unit of a sewing line

O P 6 6 O P 5 5

Machines for operations Operators for the

operation Centre table

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• Measurement of the single unit of sewing line :

• Width- 1.20 mts(machine width -0.60mts+ operator allowance=0.60mts)

• Length-2.04mts (2* Machine length(2mts)+ centre table width-0.40 mts).

• Area of a single unit= 1.20mts*2.04mts= 2.88 sq mt-30.93 sft.

•There are such 17 units in a single sewing line

•Thus area of a single line= 525.83 sft.

•Since, there are 6 sewing line, working area= 3154.98sft.

Manpower

• Sewing Operators- 208

• Operator for specialized machines-30

• Helpers -30

• Quality checkers-12

• Supervisors- 1 per line=6

• Production manager-1

• Assistant Production manager-1

• Quality Assurance personnel – 3

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FINISHING

Finishing machinery list

Machine

Model number

quantity

Washing machine

WS 35 fabcare

2 Hydro extractor

HDS 25 fabcare

2 Tumble dryer

DTS-60 fabcare

1 Pressing machine

RAMSONS VEIT

4255-65

5 Boiler

RAMSONS diesel

steam generator

1 Machine

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Number of washing machine used = 2

Therefore, area used = 2520000 mm2_{= 27.11520 sq ft.}

• The hydro extractor which will be utilized is of fabcare, model number- HDS 25. Area of the machine = 1200 mm * 1350 mm=1620000 mm2

Number of machine used = 2

• The tumble dryer which will be utilized is of fabcare, model number- DTS-60. Area of the machine = 1350 mm * 1690 mm= 2281500 mm2

• The pressing machine which will be utilized is of ramsons, model number- VEIT 4255-65.

Area of the machine = 110 cm * 32 cm =3520 cm2

Therefore, area used = 17600 cm2_{= 18.93760 sq ft.}

• The boiler which will be utilized is of ramsons diesel steam generator. Area of the machine = 1150 mm * 1350 mm = 1552500 mm2

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Number of tables required = 12 (4 for 1st_{inspection+ 4 for thread cutting +4 for final}

inspection)

Area of the table = 2.1 mts* 1.47 mts = 3.087 mt2 _{= 33.21612 sq ft.}

• Sewing machines are also required for reworking if any. Number of machine required = 5

Area required = 5* 1*0.60mts=3 sq mt= 32.22sft

Packaging

• 1 Metal detector for detecting metal parts within garments before packaging

• Dimensions of metal detector= 0.6mts *0.9 mts=0.54 sft=5.77 sft.

• 8 packaging tables of dimension 2.1mts * 1.47 mts

• Dimension of Packaging tables= 8*2.1*1.47=24.696mt2 _{= 265.23 sft}

Total area required for the finishing machinery = 27.11 sq ft. +34.86 sq ft. + 24.54sq ft. +18.93 sq ft. + 16.70 sq ft. + 33.21 sq ft. + 32.22 sft +265.23 sft = 452.80 sft. MANPOWER • Washers – 7 • Pressers-5 • Helpers -20 • Quality checkers- 10

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PRINTING

Machinery details

Printing machines

• M&R challenger II –(16 colour) automatic

Curing machines

• Transwift mini curing machine

• M&R sprint 2000 – automatic continuous curing machine

Fusing /Heat Transfer Machines

• Cheran fusing machines-2

• HIX fusing machine

Screen development machinery

• Nu-Arc tri-light exposing machine

• M&R Digikote’T’ automatic coating machine

• 1 chamber heater.

• 4 Inspection tables

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Manpower

• Printers-5

• Colour developer-2

• Screen developers-5

• Curing machine operators-5

• Heat transfer operators=5

• Helpers -8

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Embroidery

Machine details

Embroidery machines

• Barudan (18 head 9 thread)-2

• Barudan (6 head 9 thread)-1

• Amaya XT (16 colour)-2

Patch cutting machine

• Golden laser cutting machine-1

Needle detector machine

• Hashima metal detector

Total Area for embroidery department= 1200 sft

Manpower

• Embroiders-5

• Patch cutters-2

• Laser cutting operator-2

• Helpers-6

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SAMPLING

Machinery Details

S.no

Machine

Quantity

1. Flat locks

8

2. Over lock

10

3. Feed of the arm

3

4. SNLS

17

5. Riveting machine

1

6. Straight knife

1

7. Ramsons veit iron table

1

8. Picotting m/c

1

9. buttonhole

1

10. buttoning m/c

1 Total machines

44 Storage Racks

• 2 storage racks

Table

• 2 pattern making tables

Area

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Manpower planning

• Cutting master – 2 • Pattern maker – 5 • Stitching master – 50 • Helpers – 10 • Sampling head – 1 • Total manpower – 68

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CAD DEPARTMENT

Machinery

• Gerber digitizer (16 button cursor)

• Gerber Plotter (Infinity series)

• 4 Desktops

Area covered by Cad department – 96 sft

Manpower Details

• CAD operators- 4

• Helper – 2

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AMENITIES REQUIREMENT

Different amenities requirements are as follows:

• 2 water cooler per floor

• 4 toilets per floor

• 2 for operators (men and women)

• 2 for supervisors and officers (Men and women)

• Worker’s canteen on the top floor, area of 1000 sft

• Parking space at the basement

Total Setbacks of entire building is proposed to be 2000 sft with an estimate of 44 ft at each side. This set back is for transport parking and loading/unloading of the trucks.

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PART 5

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Store department– Fabric store

Area covered by pallets 567.072 sq ft Area covered by fabric checking

machine

70 sq ft

Area covered by Inspection table 144 sq ft

Accessory store

Area covered by storage cabinet 14.5 sq ft Area covered by inspection tables 288 sq ft.

Thread store

Area covered by storage cabinets 14.5 sq ft Area covered by inspection tables 288 sq ft.

Office area 200 sq ft

Total area 1586.072 sq ft

Total area with 20% allowance for walking and storing auxiliary items

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Spreading and cutting

department-Area covered by the tables 618.62 sq ft Area covered by the fusing machine 103.96 sq ft

Area covered by the band knife machine

72.17 sq ft

Area covered by the end bit racks 15.33 sq ft Area covered by the remnant racks 7.62 sq ft Area covered by the quality checking

tables

41.57 sq ft

Area covered by the bundling and ticketing tables

83.14 sq ft

Office area 200 sq ft Total area 1142.41 sq ft

Total area with 20 % allowance for walking and storing auxiliary items

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Sewing department –

Area covered by the sewing floor 3154.98 sq ft Office area 200 sq ft Total area 3354.98 sq ft

4025.976 sq ft

Finishing department –

Area covered by the washing machine

27.115 sq ft

Area covered by the hydro extractor 34.86 sq ft Area covered by the tumble dryer 24.548 sq ft

Area covered by the pressing machine

18.937 sq ft

Area covered by the boiler 16.70 sq ft Area covered by the inspection tables 33.21 sq ft Area covered by the sewing machine 32.22 sq ft Area of metal detector 5.77 sq ft Area of packaging tables 265.23 sq ft

Office area 200 sq ft Total area 658.585 sq ft

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Printing and embroidery department

-Printing department area 1870 sq ft Embroidery department area 1200 sq ft Total area 3070 sq ft

3684 sq ft

Sampling and cad

department-Area of sampling department 3700 sq ft Area of CAD department 96 sq ft

Total area 3796 sq ft

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Auxiliary

departments-Reception area 100 sq ft Merchandizing and marketing 200 sq ft

HR 150 sq ft

Finance and accounts 200 sq ft

IE 200 sq ft Quality assurance 100 sq ft Design 200 sq ft Administrative 300 sq ft PPC 200 sq ft Canteen 50 sq ft Total area 1700 sq ft

Total area with 20 % allowance for walking etc.

2040 sq ft

Auxiliary-The auxiliary block consists of various departments such as merchandizing, marketing, PPC ,HR ,financial accounts,IE,Production,Design,Reception area and etc.these consist of the offices where the various personnel perform their job. The offices only consist of working desks and desktops for performing the job. Each workspace is separate by a cabin wall. Preferably each cabin space must be ergonomically of 2 cu meters.