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Installation and Troubleshooting Instructions for Electric Tankless Residential Water Heaters.

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2040 A Whitfield Park Avenue • Sarasota • Florida 32423 • 1 800 826 5537 • info@hotwaterheater.com

Model Number: _________________

Serial Number: _________________

ATTENTION:

IF YOU ARE NOT A LICENSED PLUMBER OR A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN, YOUR WARRANTY MAY BECOME INVALID IF YOU ATTEMPT TO INSTALL OR SERVICE THE UNIT YOURSELF.

FOR MORE DETAILED SCHEMATICS AND WIRING DIAGRAMS VISIT,

www.hotwaterheater.com

Information Manual

Installation and Troubleshooting Instructions for Electric Tankless Residential Water Heaters.

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Table of Contents

INFORMATION MANUAL for Residential Heaters -Models H-12-2, H-14-2, H-16-2, H-16-4, H-18-4, H-24-4, H-28-4, H-28-4 South, and H-36-6

Table of Contents 1

How a Tankless Heater Works . . . 1

Attention Installers . . . . 2

Temperatre Rise, Breaker, AMP Chart . . . 3

Thermostat Sizes and Positions . . . 3

Element Sizes and Positions . . . 3

Proper OHMS Readings and Volts . . . 3

Light Positions . . . 3

Thermostats . . . 4

Heating Coils . . . 4

Mounting on the Wall . . . 5

Removing the Cover . . . 5

Diagnosing a problem. . . 6

Inside Front cover Page 2

1 How a Tankless Hot Water Heater Works:

When a hot water tap is opened, the cold water entering the heater passes through the first heat chamber from right to left over the first thermostat turning on the first electrical heat coil, heating the water up to 125°F as it passes directly over it.

As you change the mixture at the hot and cold faucet, the other converting thermostats recalculate the flow of energy sequentially adding or subtracting energy to maintain a constant temperature.

(The amount of energy needed is in direct proportion to the vol- ume of hot water flow being used, thereby using only the energy needed.)

All fixtures will receive up to 125°F of hot water, however at your largest flowing fixture (your bath tub) you might find the water not hot enough. Simply lower the hot water flow mixture with no cold water added until you find the temperature required. Then, if you wish, you may add a little cold to the desired temperature.

All other minor fixtures will heat up to 125°F. When the hot water is turned off, the flow of energy turns off as well. Your hot water tap is an ignition key for energy used to heat all the hot water you need.

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Attention Installers:

Please leave all paperwork with the homeowner!

Tankless, Inc. HIGHLY recommends installation by a licensed Plumber or Electrician

(Please read validation requirements in your Warranty)

Attention Licensed Plumber or Licensed Electrician:

You MUST have the water running through the water heater when you turn it on initially.

Let the water run at least (2) TWO minutes or MORE, BEFORE you turn on the toggle switch.

Failure to do this will cause a DRY START,

making the thermostats get TOO HOT, which could blow the thermostats.

2

WARNING!!!!

VERY IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ

Do NOT remove T&P valve.

(TEMPERATURE and PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE)

from the Tankless Water Heater or your warranty will become null and void

YOU MUST INSTALL AT LEAST 18 INCHES OF COPPER PIPING FROM THE HEATER TO

ANY PLASTIC PIPING.

If Heater is being installed with CPVC Plumbing,

INSTALL Temperature and Pressure Valve on Cold Side

(Inlet side) of the heater.

18 Inches

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3 Thermostats, Elements, Volts and OHMS

H-36-6 6 5 4 3 2 1

Heating Elements 6kw 6kw 6kw 6kw 4kw 6kw

Volts 220 220 220 220 220 208

Thermostats (Degrees) 125 125 125 125 135 110

OHMS 10 10 10 10 15 7.2

H-28-4 4 3 2 1

Heating Elements 5.3kw 5.3kw 6kw 6kw

Volts 208 208 220 208

Thermostats (Degrees) 125 125 135 110

OHMS 8.2 8.2 10 7.2

H-24-4 South 4 3 2 1

Heating Elements 5.3kw 5.3kw 4kw 6kw

Volts 208 208 220 208

Thermostats (Degrees) 125 125 135 110

OHMS 8.2 8.2 15 7.2

H-24-4 4 3 2 1

Heating Elements 6kw 6kw 4kw 6kw

Volts 220 220 220 208

Thermostats (Degrees) 125 125 135 110

OHMS 10 10 15 7.2

H-18-4 4 3 2 1

Heating Elements 4kw 4kw 4kw 6kw

Volts 208 208 220 220

Thermostats (Degrees) 125 125 135 110

OHMS 15 15 15 10

H-16-4 4 3 2 1

Heating Elements 4kw 4kw 4kw 4kw

Volts 208 208 220 220

Thermostats (Degrees) 125 125 135 110

OHMS 15 15 15 15

H-16-2 2 1

Heating Elements 6kw 6kw

Volts 208 208

Thermostats (Degrees) 135 110

OHMS 7.2 7.2

H-14-2 2 1

Heating Elements 6kw 6kw

Volts 240 208

Thermostats (Degrees) 135 110

OHMS 8.2 8.2

H-12-2 2 1

Heating Elements 4.5kw 6kw

Volts 240 208

Thermostats (Degrees) 135 110

OHMS 13 7.2

Left Side of the heater

Pilot On Light

#3 Indicator Light

#4 Indicator Light

Right Side of the heater

Pilot On Light

#2 Indicator Light

#1 Indicator Light Knock-out Holes

Knock-out Holes

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4

WARNING

The following models require multiple power sources when wired directly to the breaker box.

They require more than one double pole circuit breaker.

H-16-4, H-18-4, H-24-4, H-28-4S, H-28-4 and H-36-6

RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK DISCONNECT ALL POWER SUPPLIES BEFORE SERVICING If using stranded wire, make sure that all strands

are SECURELY placed in the terminal block.

A loose strand in contact with other wires can impair performance or damage the heater.

Thermostat

1. Turn off power before servicing.

2. Turn off cold and hot water valves and remove brass plug and drain water.

3. Remove front panel.

4. Disconnect electrical wires from thermostat.

5. Remove screws from thermostat mounting holes.

6. Remove thermostat by pulling it straight out.

7. Apply plumbers grease or vasoline on O-ring of thermostat.

8. Place thermostat into port and turn right and left to seal o- ring.

9. Install thermostat brackets with curvature facing downward.

10. Install holding screws.

11. Reconnect electrical wires, reinstall brass plug, fill heater, and purge air.

Note: If you remove the screw holding the ground wire, make sure that you use that same screw when replacing because that screw is 1/8”

longer than the other screws.

Heating Coils

1. Turn off power before servicing the heater.

2. Turn off cold and hot water valves and then remove the brass plug and drain water.

3. Remove the front and top panels.

4. Disconnect electrical wires from the heating coil.

5. Remove heating coil by turning counter clockwise, using element socket wrench (1 1/2”) (9 ft. lb. torque)

6. Caution: To prevent cross threading, insert the new heating coil into the heat exchanger half way. (see Figure A)

7. Grab the heating coil nut (Figure A) and pull evenly directly opposite Figure B, approximate- ly 1/2” until heating coil just starts to bend ever so slightly.

8. Insert coil and push into the threaded hole.

9. Turn clockwise with an element wrench and tighten until the O-ring is snug. 9 ft. Lb. Torque 10. Reconnect electrical wires.

11. Replace brass plug.

12. Fill the heater, and purge the air.

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A. Hold the heater in place against the wall in desired place. Use a level for best results and mark the wall for corresponding screw placement. Using red heads or expansion bolts, mount the heater onto the wall.

B. Install all piping and fittings by using glue, joint compound, or solder. Let all fittings dry, cure, or cool before turning on the water. If you are using plastic piping, you must have at least 18”of copper piping from the heater to that plastic piping.

C. Connect the electric supply wires from the breaker panel using 90* c wir- ing to L-1 and L-2 terminals inside the heater. Use one, two, or three pairs of 90* c wires with ground (see electrical diagram with wire and breaker sizes located on the outside of the heater’s front cover)

D. Turn the main water supply on making sure the heater inlet valve (on right facing heater) is fully opened. Fill the heater and piping system with water and purge all air from the system BEFORE turning on the heater switch.

E. After filling the heater with water and checking for leaks, turn on the valve on the left side of the heater. Purge all of the air out of the faucet (tub, sink, etc.) and remove the aerator to prevent dirt and minerals from clogging the faucet.

G. Leave the switch OFF on the heater. Turn on the heater main circuit breaker and breakers by heater.

H. While water is still running, turn the heater ON/OFF switch (located on the right hand side of the heater) to the ON position - UP for ON) Leave the heater ON. All LCD lights will light up first showing that each circuit is working. After approximately 10 seconds, the heater’s lights will go OFF, EXCEPT for the pilot lights, located on the bottom right and bottom left side of the heater.

VALVES FOR WATER FLOW IN AND OUT SHOULD BE PARALLEL WITH THE SUPPLY TUBES “FULL OPEN”.

Your Tankless Water Heater is READY for operation.

5

Left Side of the heater

Pilot On Light

#3 Indicator Light

#4 Indicator Light

Right Side of the heater

Pilot On Light

#2 Indicator Light

#1 Indicator Light Knock-out Holes

Knock-out Holes

How to remove the cover Remove the top cover by taking out the 4 hex head screws located on the top cover.

Remove the front cover after taking out the nut at the bottom center of the cover.

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Basic Tankless hot water heater operation.

The lights on the sides of the unit represent activation of the contactors. The thermo- stats activate the contactors. The contactors activate the heating elements.

The thermostats are hooked up in a series. With normal operation all lights will be on. Lights will go on and off sequentially, depending on the amount and flow rate of the hot water being dispersed. The heater is designed to only use the thermostats and contactors necessary to heat the water needed at any given time.

Fluctuation in temperature can often be remedied by a simple adjustment of the outflow valve on the left side of the heater, or can be a more serious problem. Fluctuation in hot water, lukewarm water, or no hot water at all, are almost always signs that indicate element, contactor or thermostat failure.

NOTE: In cases where water fails to maintain the desired temperature, you may be running the water faster than the heater is capable of heating the water. For instance:

If you turn the faucet on the tub all the way on with hot water only, and the water is very hot and then cools, down, the flow is faster than what the heater is rated. You can remedy this by slowing down the faucet. The water will heat back up to the rated temperature.

Use these steps in your diagnosis.

STEP 1: TURN OFF ALL POWER SUPPLY.

TURN OFF MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER & SUPPLY VOLTAGE TO THE UNIT.

CAUTION:

FAILURE TO DISCONNET THE POWER COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR

DEATH FROM ELECTROCUTION)

STEP 2: Check for any loose connections and for properly

operating breakers, etc.

STEP 3: TURN THE SWITCH OFF ON THE HEATER (THIS IS FOR CIRCUIT CONTROL. THERE IS STILL LIVE ELECTRICAL

POWER AND DANGER OF ELECTROCUTION.

CAUTION: FAILURE TO DISCONNET THE POWER COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH FROM ELECTROCUTION)

STEP 4. Purge the Heater

Run the hot water through the faucet until the water coming out becomes as cold as the cold water temperature.

STEP 5: Observe the Lights

While the water is still running, turn the main circuit breakers back on, then turn the heater switch back on, and observe which lights are on and which lights are off. (A working heater will have all of the lights on) If all lights are operating, most likely the thermostats and contactors are working, proceed to STEP 7. If the lights are not work- ing, proceed to STEP 6 and do the continuity test.

STEP 6: Continuity Check: Thermostat Test TURN OFF ALL POWER SUPPLY. TURN

OFF MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER AND SUP- PLY VOLTAGE TO THE UNIT. CAUTION:

FAILURE TO DISCONNET THE POWER COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR

DEATH FROM ELECTROCUTION) Because the thermostats are in series, any thermo- stat that fails will prohibit the other thermostats from engaging. Most likely, the light that is out corresponds to the failing thermostat. (The thermostats following a bad thermostat may be good, but the corresponding lights will still be out because they are in a series) The condition of the thermostats can be determined by a Continuity Check. CAUTION, to properly check thermostats for continuity, the heater should be turned off at the main power source and water should be run for at least one minute through the heater, thus checking the con- tinuity of the thermostats in a cool state. Continuity is done between the arms on a thermostat.

Occasionally you may get a false reading on a thermostat.

It may read good but have a weak connection.

NOTE: Two element heaters have the same basic operation as the four element heaters. (For H-36-6 heaters, one wire on the thermostat must be

disconnected to get an accurate continuity reading.)

Our FOUR element heaters have three lights on each side. Check to see if the Power On Pilot Lights are on or off. The Power On Pilot Lights are the lights on the bottom lights on the right and left side of the heaters. If the Power On Pilot Lights are off, check incoming power at the circuit breakers. If the Pilot On Lights are on, but other lights fail to come on when the water is turned on, it is likely that one of the following thermostats has failed:

(See Page __ for a photo of light positions)

a. The light on the right side of the heater at the top is the Thermostat and Element Indicator Light #2. If this light is off,

Thermostat # 2 (135 degrees) could be failing.

b. The light on the right side of the heater in the middle is the Thermostat and Element Indicator Light #1.

If this light is off, Thermostat # 1 (110 degrees) could be failing.

d. The light on the left side of the heater at the top is the Thermostat and Element Indicator Light #4. If this light is off,

Thermostat # 4 (125 degrees) could be failing.

e. The light on the left side of the heater in the middle is the Thermostat and Element Indicator Light #3. If this light is off,

Thermostat # 3 (125 degrees) could be failing.

STEP 7: Ohms Check: Testing the Elements TURN OFF ALL POWER SUPPLY. TURN OFF MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER If all lights are on and you still have bad performance, (not hot enough, fluctuations, etc) you may have a failing element. Check each element with an OHMS meter for correct readings: (See proper OHMS settings)

STEP 8: Testing the Contactors The lights will tell you if the contactor is on or off.

If the lights are on, your contactors ARE working. If the lights are off, the contactors are not engagin, which can be the result of a failing thermostat or the contactor.

STEP 9: Checking for Leaks

If you have a leak, there are three possible reasons: The top O-ring on the elements leak, or the O-rings on the thermostats leak, or any other which represents a serious problem which requires sending the heater back to the factory for repair.

You can save yourself a lot of expense and time by doing a simple test to determine if an inexpensive O-ring will solve the leak problem.

1. Turn the main power off at the Circuit Breaker.

CAUTION:

FAILURE TO DISCONNET THE POWER COULD CAUSE SERI- OUS INJURY OR DEATH FROM

ELECTROCUTION) 2. Take off the cover of the heater.

3. Take a paper towel and dry up all of the wa- ter.

4. Take another dry paper towel and gently blot around the element. If there is water on the towel, it is the O-ring on the element.

5. Take another dry paper towel and gently blot around the thermostat. If there is water on the towel, it is the O-ring on the thermostat.

If neither the thermostats or element O-rings are the source of the water, send the heater back.

You can find these steps under Trouble- shooting at www.hotwaterheater.com ATTENTION:

IF YOU ARE NOT A LICENSED PLUMBER OR A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN, YOUR WARRANTY MAY BECOME INVALID IF YOU ATTEMPT TO INSTALL OR SERVICE THE UNIT YOURSELF.

6

Troubleshooting Residential Heaters

These instructions are only for qualified electricians. You will need: Continuity Tester, Voltage Meter, OHMs Meter

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