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Constructing the study: research design and methods choices

4.4 Data analysis

After the data collection, all interviews were prepared for analysis by being transcribed. The software NVivo was used as an aid in coding the transcribed material as well as for the consequent analysis of the codes. The interviews led to very rich data from which numerous interesting points of analysis could be drawn. In accordance with the Gioia methodology, the analysis process that followed the collection of the data took on an abductive format in which I went back and forth between my data and theory (Dubois & Gadde, 2002; Gioia et al., 2013). Apart from the transcripts, descriptive data (e.g. age, gender, degree level) were also added to the software.

According to the Gioia methodology, the first step in analysing the data is to create 1st order codes that are as close as possible to the material, using terminology that

lies close to the language used by the informants. This goes hand in hand with the grounded theory method of coding word by word (Charmaz, 2014). Rather than coding word by word, I created codes line by line, alternatively phrase by phrase, using in vivo coding as a means to stay as close to the original wording of the transcription as possible (cf. Saldaña, 2106). This also meant that no categories of codes were pre-set. Following the initial coding, factors from the conceptual

theoretical framework presented in Chapter 3 were added to NVivo, structuring the codes in accordance with these as to look for patterns. This follows the structure proposed by Gioia et al. (2013), where first order codes are to be organised into second order themes which are theory-centric. Figure 4.1 gives an illustration of this coding strategy, including 2nd order themes and consequent 3rd order aggregated

themes, in this illustration dealing with the informants’ knowledge base. Figure 4.1

Coding structure: different types of knowledge

As the research as a whole followed an abductive logic of moving back and forth between theory and data collection, and furthermore that the interviews followed a semi-structured logic, much of the answers to the questions dealt with in this research were not the direct response to an actual question in the interview guide. Rather, the answers were to be found through the thorough analysis of the interview material as a whole (cf. Gioia et al., 2013).

When analysing the interviews in relation to theory, it became evident that certain parameters of interest also included some type of classification. Figure 4.2 below illustrates how the initial coding led to insights regarding perceived feasibility and perceived desirability of becoming an entrepreneur (for a discussion on the theoretical framework in relation to these factors, please see Chapter 3).

Market Knowledge

Business Knowledge Creative Knowledge

Higher Education Design Preparatory Design Education

Competitions/Scholarships

Internships

Industry Interaction

Previous Employments No previous experience of fashion

before BA studiies Focus in education method and inspiration rather than commercial

Believes scholarship can help in setting up business, good PR Winning competition meant funding

and tutoring for starting own firm Point with education to push

boundaries

Get to see business side of fashion when interning Internship widened view on how to

commercialise artistic goods When interaction with alumni then

mainly through fast fashion School not connected to the ”real”

world Experience of production process through working at fast fashion firm Good experience from working in

fashion stores Did preparatory studies in

Figure 4.2

Coding structure: perceived feasibility and perceived desirability

Previous literature has addressed these factors on a high-low scale (c.f., e.g., Fitzsimmons & Douglas, 2011), and consequently, as a means to showcase results comparable to other studies within the field, a similar classification for the data at hand in this research was beneficial. Table 4.6 below illustrates how the coding of the interviews was used in classifying the informants’ levels of perceived feasibility and perceived desirability respectively.

Perceived Desirability Perceived Feasibility Networks and ineraction with

industry Financing

Self-confidence

Use of creative knowledge

View on fashion industry

Personality Starting own business requires a lot

of money for buffering Fashion awards as means of attention rather than prestige

Has a drive forward in the process Will to do fashion but insecure about whether skilled enough The importance of network for success, example stylists

Entering industry like being schooled all over again Artistic competence not valued in

industry Attitude in industry very elitist

Critical to the pace of industry

Not willing to work for fashion company just for the sake of it Current focus on closeness to family

and friends Harder to start own firm once used

Table 4.6

Classification of level of perceived feasibility and perceived desirability Perceived feasibility

Illustrative quote Code Level

DS11: And I guess that is partly how I feel too, that, you know, I don’t have a clue as to how to go about doing it. How do you set up a business? I mean, how do you do it? So I guess it’s mainly stuff like that. I don’t know, it feels so overwhelming somehow.

Doesn’t know how to go about starting own

company

Low

DS9: Well, I don’t know really. I mean, it’s all the financial stuff of course, but you always start off small and then you learn. I took classes in business in high school (laughter). But I don’t exactly remember that much of it, but I mean, it usually sorts out somehow. Then again, I haven’t set up my own business yet so I don’t really know if it will sort out.

Starting company trial and

error Medium Low

DS3: Right now I think it’s pure lust of experimenting, and I think there’s something to that. I think I see a plan in that I actually look forward to creating this, that I have some type of interest in entrepreneurship. I think that makes me feel quite comfortable because that means I got that part, and as soon as we sit down, you know, we will sort that part out too.

Believes in his own

entrepreneurial ability Medium High

DS4: I mean, we got 100,000 SEK as seed funding and heaps of consultation, and courses and educational offerings with regards to business making. And all of that has been really good.

Winning competition meant funding and tutoring

for starting own firm

High

Perceived desirability

Illustrative quote Code Level

DS19: But I mean, I don’t think I ever felt the urge to start my own business either. I mean, maybe I will at some point, you know, that I will feel that urge, but I mean when you here all these stories, with all this companies that you think are doing really well, but financially they’re completely fucked. I don’t know, I just think it sounds scary.

Not interested in starting

own firm Low

DS17: Well, I mean, of course I’ve felt that, you know, numerous times, that I would make really good collections. But no, honestly, I’m not sure I would actually want to go for it and do it.

Had ideas of starting own firm but not into it

anymore

Medium Low

DS13: I think I’ve become a bit more careful over the course of these three years (…) Like two years ago, I think I would have been more confident and just gone with it. But now, for various reasons, I think, I’ve become a bit, like distant. You know, not just rush into things.

Take time to let ideas settle

before setting up business Medium High

DS3: Well, I guess it’s something that has grown over time, but I think, you know, having had this freedom for seven years.. I don’t know, all internships I’ve had have been at small firms that are struggling to make it work, but it’s still been amazing. It’s a very tough and still satisfying life. I think that’s what I want. At least for now. So, I mean, try to have my own firm that works somehow, to have that freedom. Then again, it’s almost impossible to make ends meet, but I mean, I guess that’s sort of the main issue. But I still think I have to try at least.

Will to start own company

As displayed by Table 4.6 above, four scale points were used in classifying the informants, as a binary choice of low or high did not give sufficient nuancing to what was expressed in the interviews. This is further showcased by the illustrative quotes for each level.

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