the muslin.
Step 2
Next determine cap height, B. This is the length from sleeve cap to underarm line.
There are three ways to arrive at this measurement:
1. Divide armhole measurement by three (cap height is one-third of armhole measurement).
2. Measure drop of underarm from edge of shoulder to where armhole ends below underarm.
3. Estimate underarm length. Decide on optimum lift of arm and measure from the wrist to bottom of armhole. In this way, you arrive at the horizontal line on the pattern by measuring from the wrist up rather than from the top edge down.
Step 1
Determine length of sleeve, A, by measuring from edge of armhole at the shoulder to wrist or to the place on the arm where sleeve will fi nish.
Draw a vertical line and label it “A.” This also signifi es lengthgrain of fabric.
Gibson Girl blouse: A = 20" (51 cm);
Step 3
Estimate hem circumference, C.
Approximate amount of fullness at hem edge and draw a horizontal line centered at the bottom of the vertical lengthgrain line A. Label this horizontal line “C.”
Gibson Girl blouse: C = 14" (35.5 cm)
Step 4
Determine underarm circumference, D.
To do this, set points on line B to create angle of cap height to underarm line. The traditional method is to calculate half of the armhole measurement and draw the diagonal line of that length between the top of line A to the point where it meets line B to the left and right. Label these new points “D.”
An alternative method is to simply approximate the volume of the sleeve you want at the height of the underarm line, which is the bicep line for a higher armhole, or 1" (2.5 cm) or so below that for a lower armhole. Center this measurement on line A and mark points to the left and right on line B. Draw diagonal lines to the left and right from the top of line A to meet the points on line B.
Draw lines from both points D to each end of line C.
Gibson Girl blouse: D = 11" (28 cm)
Step 5
Now create S-curve of sleeve cap.
Mark front and back of sleeve. Front is usually on right and back on left.
Divide the lines from A to D into thirds.
On the front, mark a point ¾" (2 cm) out from the mark signifying the top third.
On the back, mark a point ½" (1.5 cm) out from the mark signifying the top third.
Draw a line from the above points through the lower third point. This intersection at the lower third point is called the “pivot point.” It is the place where the sleeve goes from following the top of the armhole with a convex curve to falling toward the lower armhole in a concave curve.
The shape of the sleeve cap
The upper third of the front part of the sleeve is larger than the back of the sleeve to accommodate the bony part of the shoulder about an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) below the top of the shoulder.
The slope at the back of the sleeve is softer and wider to create extra room for the arm to move forward.
Step 6
Draw S-curve from top of line A through pivot point to underarm line B.
Study the shape of the sleeve. It helps to be able to visualize the eventual shape of your pattern piece when you are draping, even if it is only a starting point for the sleeve.
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Chapter 2.2 BlousesHistory | Exercises | Draping Project | Variations
A A A
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Step 5
If you have used the Easy Sleeve Draft, lightly mark the lines on the muslin to use as reference. If you have draped from scratch, take cap height measurement (see box above) and mark it on the muslin for reference.
Align lengthgrain with outer line of stuffed arm. Pin at bicep line and again toward wrist area.
Allow sleeve to angle slightly forward following natural hang of arm, indicated by the blue line on the stuffed arm.
As the triangle of excess fabric folds back, you can see the shape of the sleeve starting to emerge.
Step 6
Set cap volume by pinning in gathers until the look of the photograph is achieved.
Step 7
Starting at the wrist, determine volume of lower edge. It looks in the photograph as if it may be slightly fl ared.
Pin wrong sides together about halfway up to elbow area.
Measuring the cap height
Observe what happens when a simple square shape is used to wrap the arm. When matched at the underarm side seam, the obvious missing shape is the triangle needed to fi ll in the space up to the shoulder. This is called the cap of the sleeve.
Measure the distance from the edge of the shoulder seam to the top edge of the fabric as it matches up with the lower edge of the armhole. This will be your “cap height.”
Sleeves are easier to drape if you begin with some target measurements such as this one.
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Chapter 2.2 BlousesHistory | Exercises | Draping project | Variations
Step 8
Set the notch points. Start by looking at the sleeve from the side and determine the volume around the arm at about the bicep level. Check sleeve through 360°
and adjust volume until you feel it has the look of the photo. The notch point, or “pivot point,” is the point where the sleeve head begins to fall to the underside of the arm. Experiment with moving notch point of sleeve piece up and down the
armhole 1" (2.5 cm) or so, and notice how this changes the balance of the sleeve drape. Find the position that feels the most balanced and graceful.
Pin fi rmly at front and back to about halfway down depth of armhole.
Clip to the pin, and trim off excess triangle above it (not shown).
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Step 9
Turn underarm seam of sleeve front over back from wrist to elbow, checking that crossgrains are matching up.
Once it is turned, tie a piece of twill tape or elastic at lower edge and begin to adjust gathers.
Check drape from the side and make back slightly longer than front to allow room for elbow. Trim the excess, leaving about ½"
(1.5 cm) seam allowance (not shown).
Step 10
Finish cap adjustment by checking the balance again and turning it under along armhole line.
Turn triangles of excess fabric below notch to the inside and allow them to fall along armhole line.
Pin along lower curve, raising and lowering stuffed arm and studying the way the sleeve “breaks.” Ideally, armhole seam should be covered by drape of sleeve.
Alternately, pin down underarm seam on sleeve and up underarm seam to armhole.
The last few inches (about 7.5 cm) will be diffi cult to fi nesse; after you have fi nished the collar drape, it is acceptable to remove the blouse from the form and fi nish pinning this area last (see Step 13).
Pinning the underarm
Pinning the underarm is an awkward process that takes some practice. Try using the stuffed arm to support the seam as you pin.
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Chapter 2.2 BlousesHistory | Exercises | Draping project | Variations
Collars
Collars can be draped from front to back or from back to front. This simple band collar will start from the front.
The closure will be at the back.
Step 11
Start collar at CF by aligning lengthgrains.
Pin fi rmly and begin clipping to neckline as you wrap band collar around to back.
Step 12
Turn upper edge over to desired width.
Turn lower edge under and pin to neckline.
Step 13
Mark sleeve and remove muslin from form.
You can continue pinning the underarm seam on the table (see Step 10).
Study shape of sleeve and height of your cap. The underarm point of front and back should be on the same crossgrain, and the shape should look similar to the fl at sketch below.