This ATV can be run with or without fenders. It just depends upon what type of terrain you will be riding over. I like to drive over muddy terrain so I have added fenders.
If you live in sandy country I wouldn’t even bother building fenders. If, however, you want to plow through mud then you will really appreciate fenders☺
Cut four pieces of ¾” square tubing 44” long. These will be your fender crossmembers. Measuring from the rear of the bottom half of the frame forward place marks at 22.5” and 41 3/8”. These are the center marks for the lower rear and lower front crossmembers. Center up and weld. While we are here cut two pieces of ¾” square tubing 17 7/8” long and use these pieces to connect (front to rear) the crossmembers on each side. These serve to
eventually lay your steel footrests (13” x 17.5” x .125” flat steel) on and weld to. Photos are below of footrests.
Now, insert one of the 44” pieces of square tubing into the 1” square tubing crossmember that the upper frame halves were welded to. Center it up and weld.
Cut a 17.5” piece of ¾” square tubing. Using the last 44” piece of square tubing create a “TEE” which will serve as the front fender crossmember.
Photos are below.
heres the front “TEE”
After the crossmembers have been welded we come to the actual round tubing used for the fender substructure. You can use most any type of thinwall round tubing available. I use ¾” EMT (about 1” overall diameter) which is available anywhere in the USA for almost nothing. I use a 1”
conduit bender to bend the emt. Below is a conduit bender without the handle installed.
degree bend centered at 23” from what will be the bottom (forward) end of the brace.
The outside braces go on first. As seen in the photos the bottom end of each brace must be saddled lightly to mate to the ¾” square tubing crossmembers.
Position the lower end of the outside braces flush with the ends of the crossmember and tack. Position the upper end about flush with the end of the upper crossmember and after making adjustments for square, tack and weld. Repeat for the other outside brace.
The inside braces are installed the same way. Cut a piece of ¾” EMT 44”
long. Saddle the ends of each of the upper braces, position this piece centered and weld out. Trim the ends flush after welding.
Cut two pieces of ¾” EMT 20” long. These are the diagonal braces that connect the rear fender connector brace (44” piece) to the lower frame half.
These provide load bearing ability to the ATV fender. SEE photos below.
Please note that this rear brace in the photo below is saddled differently than the instructions call for. The method you were told to do is easier but you may do it either way.
Cut four pieces of ¾” EMT 37” long. Put a 60 degree bend centered at 23”
on each piece.
Position and tack each of these pieces as we did the rear bracing. Below are photos of the front fender bends. Study the photos and then we will continue.
Yes, there is a disc brake shown in the pictures. No, it did not work well.
Position your rear sprocket near where it should be to line up with the countershaft sprocket on the torque converter. Install and tension the chain.
Spin the rear wheels to find exactly where the rear sprocket should be
secured. With the sprocket loose on the axle it will almost be self-centering.
Secure the rear sprocket with set screws and key. Also, install keys and set screws in rear hubs and tight all including lock nuts that secure hubs to axle.
Tension chain like you would a motorcycle.
Lets talk about brakes.
I have tested several brakes on this ATV and am not 100% satisfied with any of them. The good news is, this ATV needs very little braking power.
I have had the best luck with the drum brake shown in the pictures below.
Properly set up, it will hold the ATV to a slow crawl when going down a
restraining arm as shown in photos below.
The restraining arm locates the brake backing plate. Connecting the backing plate to the frame.
note my trailer hitch. I can and do pull 12’ trailers, no problem.
midway
With the brake backing plate and drum position on the rear axle cut a 10”
long piece of ¾” x ¾” square tubing. Drill a .250” bolt hole on one end. Bolt the restraining arm to the slot provided on the backing plate and then weld to frame as shown above.
Connect brake lever and cable to handlebars on left side. Install midway.
Connect cable to brake actuation arm. After cycling brake lever a few times you will have to adjust cable again.
After the rear axle is installed it is time to install the throttle control. Simply slip the twist grip throttle onto the right side of the handlebar and tighten the screws.
Route the throttle cable to the engine and connect in whatever configuration is necessary for your particular engine. Be sure you have some method to kill the engine also. This varies from engine to engine.
Crank your engine after verifying oil is in the crankcase and fuel is in the gas tank.
speed and verify that chain is properly aligned.
Now for the real fun, hop on the ATV and test ride. After a few minutes go over the entire ATV looking for loose bolts, etc. Readjust brake as needed. It wears in a lot during the first hour or so.
Lastly, this ATV will run MUCH faster than it should be driven. Be wise and drive it at a safe speed at all times.